JPS6236812Y2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed Description of the Invention] [Industrial Field of Application] The present invention relates to a jacket particularly useful for sportswear such as golf wear, and is an improvement on the cutting line with sleeves.

[Conventional technology]

Regarding this type of sportswear, it is necessary to make the movements of the arms particularly functional.

To explain the prior art related to this point with reference to the accompanying drawings, the sleeve seams 3 and 4 of the sleeve body 1 and the front and back body 2 that are sewn together have the same overall length but different shapes, for example, on the sleeve side. It is known to provide a margin for smooth vertical movement of the arm (such as Japanese Utility Model Publication No. 31045/1983).

[Problem that the invention attempts to solve]

However, in the conventional example, functionality is ensured only by the sleeve body, such as the sleeve angle and sleeve width. Moreover, the process was nothing more than a standard one that met the fashionable demands of the time.

For this reason, the sleeve width became wider, and more room than necessary was created in the front chest width, back width, etc., resulting in unstable arm movement characteristics in all directions. In addition, when the importance was placed on the functionality of up and down arm movement and crossing the arms, the extra room created looseness under the armpits and around the chest even when worn, which halved the aesthetic value of the garment.

The present invention was proposed in order to eliminate such conventional problems, and the cutting line with sleeves has excellent motor function characteristics such as vertical movement of the shoulders and upper arms, and also eliminates the need for sleeves etc. even when worn. To obtain a jacket that does not cause baggy and has an aesthetic effect on clothing.

[Means for solving problems]

That is, as shown in FIGS. 1 and 2, the present invention has the same overall length at the sleeve seam lines 3 and 4 of the sleeve body 1 and the front and back bodies 2 that are sewn together, but The straight line distance between the upper shoulder starting point 5 and the underarm end point 6 at the seam line 3 is set shorter than the straight line distance between the upper shoulder starting point 7 and the underarm end point 8 at the sleeve seam line 4 of the front and rear body 2. This point is basically a previously known prerequisite configuration.

In addition, in the present invention, the shapes of the sleeve seam lines 3 and 4 are similar in the parts near the upper shoulder starting points 5 and 7 and the parts near the underarm end points 6 and 8, but are different in the middle part, Approximately S having inflection point portions 9 and 10 at positions biased toward the armpit side from the seam center position
The shape of the letter shall be a cubic curve. That is,
The sleeve seam 3 of the sleeve body 1 is concave on the upper side of the shoulder and convex on the underarm side, and conversely, the sleeve seam 4 of the front and back body 2 is convex on the upper side of the shoulder and convex on the underarm side. It is assumed that it is concave.

At least a concave curve 11 above the shoulder from the inflection point portion 9 at the sleeve seam 3 of the sleeve body 1.
is a convex curve 1 above the shoulder from the inflection point 10 at the sleeve seam 4 of the front and rear body 2 corresponding to this.
It is assumed that the radius of curvature is set smaller than 2.

As a result, as shown in FIG. 4, the armpit portion 25 of the sleeve body 1 moves toward the front and rear body 2, and
The requirement is that the inflection point portions 9, 10 of the sleeve seam lines 3, 4 are located above the inside of the underarm line 17 of the sleeve.

[Effect]

Looking at the proposed jacket with the above structure when it is not worn, the sleeve seams 3 and 4 of the sleeve body 1 and the front and back body 2
Due to the difference in curvature in , almost vertical wrinkles 22 are formed on the upper side of the shoulder as shown in FIG. 4, and
Horizontal or diagonally downward wrinkles 23 are formed on the armpit side.

However, when the present jacket is worn, the aforementioned wrinkles 22 and 23 disappear along the shoulders and upper arms of the human body, and the sleeves do not become wider and do not overlap at the base of the sleeves. Then, as shown in Fig. 4, the underarm part 25 of the sleeve body 1
has migrated to the front and back body 2 sides.

When the present jacket is worn, the direction of the fabric in the armpit portions 25 of the sleeve body 1 becomes biased (diagonal cut) to give it elasticity, and it adapts to the movements of the arms in the front, back, left, and right directions. Particularly noteworthy is the above-mentioned inflection point portion 9,1.
The sleeve moves in accordance with the vertical movement of the arm around 0, and no twitching phenomenon occurs.

〔Example〕

The drawings show an embodiment in which the present invention is applied to a jacket with raglan sleeves.

FIG. 1 is a plan view of the sleeve body 1, and FIG. 2 is a plan view of the front and rear body 2. The sleeve body 1 and the front and back body 2 are made of knitwear cut vertically.

The sleeve seams 3 and 4 of the sleeve body 1 and the front and back body 2 that are sewn together have the same overall length, but the straight-line distance between the upper shoulder starting point 5 and the underarm end point 6 of the sleeve seam 3 of the sleeve body 1 is Sleeve seam line 4 of front and back body 2
It is shorter than the straight line distance between the upper shoulder starting point 7 and the lower armpit end point 8 in . In addition, here, the front body and the back body are collectively referred to as the front and rear body 2. Therefore, the front and rear bodies 2 refer to both or one of the front body and the back body unless otherwise specified.

The shapes of the sleeve seam lines 3 and 4 are similar in the portions near the upper shoulder starting points 5 and 7 and the portions near the underarm end points 6 and 8, but are different in the middle portion, and the seams are different in the middle portion. It has a substantially S-shaped cubic curve (there may be a broken line) with inflection point portions 9 and 10 on the underarm side of the eye center position. However, the inflection point portion 10 of the sleeve seam line 4 of the front and rear body parts 2 is linear in the illustrated example.

That is, the sleeve seam line 3 of the sleeve body 1 is curved concavely above the shoulder beyond the inflection point 9, and convexly curved below the armpit from the inflection point 9. On the other hand, the sleeve seam 4 of the front and rear body parts 2 is curved convexly above the shoulders beyond the inflection point 10, and concavely curved below the armpit from the inflection point 10.

What should be noted here is that, first, the inflection point portions 9 and 10 are set at positions that are biased toward the underarm side from the seam center position of each sleeve stitch line 3 and 4. Second, the concave curve 11 above the shoulder from the inflection point 9 at the sleeve seam 3 of the sleeve body 1 is a convex curve above the shoulder from the corresponding inflection point 10 at the sleeve seam 4 of the front and rear body 2. This point has a smaller radius of curvature than curve 12. By the way, in the illustrated example, sleeve body 1
The convex curve 13 on the armpit side at the sleeve seam line 3 is also
The radius of curvature is slightly smaller than the corresponding concave curve 14 on the armpit side at the sleeve seam line 4 of the front and rear body parts 2.

In FIG. 4, the lower part of the armpit sleeve is curved and protrudes from the lower sleeve line 15 of the sleeve body 1, and the curved curve 16 of the lower armpit sleeve intersects with the sleeve seam line 3 at an acute angle θ. There is. In addition, front and back body 2
The underarm line 17 and the sleeve seam line 4 intersect at an obtuse angle θ'. Furthermore, the normal line 19 at the inflection point portion 9 of the sleeve seam line 3 of the sleeve body 1 intersects with the curved line 16 under the armpit sleeve.

As described above, the sleeve seams 3 and 4 of the sleeve body 1 and the front and rear body 2 have different curvatures, and the neck portions 20 and 21 of each have the same shape. There are inflection point portions 9 and 10 at intermediate positions where the curved distances from the respective starting points 5 and 7 are approximately the same. Therefore, if these parts of the same shape or inflection point parts are sewn together as a whole along the sleeve seam lines 3 and 4 by matching the curved distances from the starting points 5 and 7, the result is shown in stippling in Fig. 3. It looks like the overlapping parts are being pushed apart. This causes wrinkles on the sleeve side, and as shown in Fig. 4, wrinkles 22, 2 radially spread toward the sleeve side from the inflection points 9, 10 of the sleeve seam line, which have different shapes.
I can do 3. Actually, when viewed in a non-wearing state, wrinkles 22 are formed in the vertical direction above the inflection point portions 9 and 10.
Two downward wrinkles 23 are formed horizontally or diagonally downward from the inflection point portions 9 and 10 in a concentrated manner. Of course, it should be noted that these wrinkles 22 and 23 occur only when the garment is placed on a flat surface without being worn.

More specifically, in practice, for example, if you sew both seam lines 3 and 4 from the neck portions 20 and 21 side, in order to sew the armpit portions 25 and 26 without creating wrinkles, sleeve body 1
The armpit portions 25 of the sewing machine are sewn together while rotating and moving around the inflection point portions 9 and 10. Therefore, after sewing the sleeve body 1 to the front and rear body parts 2, the front and rear body parts 2 are spread flat so that no wrinkles are formed, and the neck portions 20 and 21 of the sleeve body 1 have the same shape of the sleeve seam line. When the armpit portions 25 and 26 are expanded in the same manner, the aforementioned wrinkles 22 and 26 are formed on the sleeve body 1 side.
23 can be done.

However, as mentioned above, these wrinkles 22 and 23 are visible when not worn, and when the proposed jacket is worn, the base of the sleeve is along the shoulder and upper arm, so the wrinkles 22 and 23 are visible when the jacket is not worn. , 23 functions as a margin to facilitate the movement of the arm, but does not appear as bagginess.

Then, the armpit portion 25 of the sleeve body 1 moves to the front and rear body 2 sides as shown in FIG. 10 is located.

When the jacket of the present invention is worn, the sleeves can be moved up and down around the inflection point portions 9 and 10, and there is no strain and the functionality of movement is enhanced. In other words, the underarm portion 25 of the sleeve body 1 enters into the front and rear body 2 sides in a sleeve-attached state. Moreover, the sleeves move up and down centering on the above-mentioned inflection point portions 9 and 10. Further, the underarm portion 25 of the sleeve body 1 is biased and has elasticity. Therefore, when the arm is lifted high, the underarm portion 25 of the sleeve body 1 can be moved to the sleeve side with ample space, and since it has elasticity, it does not get strained. The sleeve body 1 moves upward based on the inflection point portions 9 and 10 according to the movement of the arm. On the other hand, when the arm is lowered, the armpit portion 25 of the sleeve body 1 returns to the front and back body 2 side, thereby preventing baggage and wrinkles from occurring in the armpit and chest width. It adapts equally well to forward, backward, and sideways movements of the arm.

[Effect of idea]

In the present invention, in the sleeve seams 3 and 4 of the sleeve body 1 and the front and back body 2 that are sewn together, the shapes of both sleeve seams 3 and 4 are set at the above-shoulder starting point 5,
7 and the armpit end points 6 and 8 are similar, but the middle part is different, and the inflection points 9 and 10 are closer to the armpit than the seam center position.
It has a substantially S-shaped cubic curve shape with a concave curve 1 on the upper side of the shoulder at the sleeve seam 3 of the sleeve body 1.
1 is the corresponding sleeve seam line 4 of the front and back body 2
The radius of curvature is set smaller than that of the convex curve 12 on the upper side of the shoulder. Therefore, there is a margin on the sleeve side for easy vertical movement around the above-mentioned inflection points 9 and 10, and in particular, there is no strain in the vertical movement of the arm, and the motor function characteristics can be improved. Also,
The armpit part 25 of the sleeve body 1 is the armpit line 1 of the front and back body 2
Since the front and back body parts 2 are constructed by moving inward from 7, even when the arms are lowered, there will be no bagginess or wrinkles in the armpits or chest width, and the aesthetic effect of clothing can be ensured. .

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

The drawings show an embodiment of the jacket according to the present invention, in which Fig. 1 is a plan view of the sleeve body, Fig. 2 is a plan view of the front and rear body, and Fig. 3 shows a part of the sleeve seam line being butted together during sewing. FIG. 4 is a plan view of the sleeve body and the front and back body in a state where the sleeve body is in a state where the sleeve body is in a state where the sleeve body is in a state where the sleeve body is closed. 1... Sleeve body, 2... Front and back body, 3... Sleeve seam line of sleeve body, 4... Sleeve seam line of front and back body, 5
...The starting point above the shoulder of the sleeve seam line on the sleeve body, 6...The end point under the armpit of the sleeve seam line on the sleeve body, 7...The above shoulder starting point of the sleeve seam line on the front and back body, 8...The sleeve seam line on the front and back body. Underarm end point, 9... Inflection point of the sleeve seam line of the sleeve body, 10... Inflection point of the sleeve seam line of the front and back body, 11... Concave curve of the sleeve seam line of the sleeve body, 1
2... Convex curve of the sleeve seam on the front and back body, 13...
Convex curve of the sleeve seam line on the sleeve body, 14...Concave curve of the sleeve seam line on the front and back body, 15...Sleeve bottom line on the sleeve body, 17...Underarm line on the front and back body, 20...Neck part of the sleeve body , 21... Neck part of front and back body, 2
2, 23...Wrinkle folds, 25...Underarm part of sleeve body,
26...The underarm part of the front and back body.

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claim for Utility Model Registration] The sleeve seams 3 and 4 of the sleeve body 1 and the front and back body 2 that are sewn together have the same overall length, but the upper shoulder starting point 5 and the armpit seam line 3 of the sleeve body 1 are the same. The straight line distance from the end point 6 is the sleeve seam line 4 of the front and back body parts 2
The straight line distance between the upper shoulder starting point 7 and the underarm end point 8 is set to be shorter than the straight line distance between the upper shoulder starting point 7 and the underarm end point 8. , 8 are similar, but the middle part is different, and has a substantially S-shaped cubic curve shape with inflection points 9 and 10 located below the armpit from the seam center position. , The sleeve seam 3 of the sleeve body 1 is concave on the upper side of the shoulder and convex on the underarm side, and the sleeve seam 4 of the front and back body 2 is convex on the upper side of the shoulder and concave on the underarm side. The concave curve 11 above the shoulder of the inflection point 9 at the sleeve seam 3 of the sleeve body 1 is curved from the corresponding inflection point 10 at the sleeve seam 4 of the front and rear body 2. The radius of curvature is set smaller than the convex curve 12 on the upper side of the shoulder, and the armpit part 25 of the sleeve body 1 moves to the front and rear body 2 side, and a sleeve seam line is formed above the inside of the armpit line 17 of the front and rear body 2. The upper garment is characterized in that the inflection point portions 9 and 10 of Nos. 3 and 4 are located.