JPS6235493B2 - - Google Patents

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Publication number
JPS6235493B2
JPS6235493B2 JP54094188A JP9418879A JPS6235493B2 JP S6235493 B2 JPS6235493 B2 JP S6235493B2 JP 54094188 A JP54094188 A JP 54094188A JP 9418879 A JP9418879 A JP 9418879A JP S6235493 B2 JPS6235493 B2 JP S6235493B2
Authority
JP
Japan
Prior art keywords
yarn
core
wound
twisted
winding
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired
Application number
JP54094188A
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Japanese (ja)
Other versions
JPS5620627A (en
Inventor
Masayuki Tani
Yoshuki Sasaki
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Teijin Ltd
Original Assignee
Teijin Ltd
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Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Teijin Ltd filed Critical Teijin Ltd
Priority to JP9418879A priority Critical patent/JPS5620627A/en
Publication of JPS5620627A publication Critical patent/JPS5620627A/en
Publication of JPS6235493B2 publication Critical patent/JPS6235493B2/ja
Granted legal-status Critical Current

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Description

【発明の詳細な説明】[Detailed description of the invention]

本発明はスパンライク複合糸更に詳しくは膨
み、ヌメリ感による柔軟な感触に加えて適度な腰
を有するスパンライク複合糸に関する。 従来、スパンライク複合糸の製造法としては特
開昭49−72443号明細書、特開昭49−47644号明細
書に記載されている如く、伸度の異る2種以上の
糸条を引揃えて仮撚捲縮加工に付することにより
伸度の小なる糸条が芯となり、伸度の大なる糸条
がそのまわりを交互燃糸状にとりまいた二層構造
捲縮糸とすることが知られている。 また、上記の形態を有する二層構造糸の他の製
造法として、仮撚スピンドルによつて施撚(仮
撚)状態にある芯糸の回転トルクを利用して捲付
糸をオーバーフイードしつつ捲付かせることもよ
く知られている。(例えば特公昭45−28018号公報
参照) これらの方法によつて得られる二層構造糸にお
いては、一般に捲付糸は交互撚糸状に芯糸の周り
に捲付いていることから、その撚糸効果によりス
パンライクな風合を呈するものと言われている。
そして各撚糸区域(S又はZの捲付部)において
は少くとも3回以上の撚が存在しているのが普通
であり、且つこれによつて上記撚糸効果を現出し
ている。 所で、このような糸構造を有する仮燃加工糸
は、その撚糸構造により、通常のウーリー加工糸
織物の欠点であるぬめり感やふかつきを改良する
という特長をもつていたが、一方では、捲付糸が
締束状態で捲付いている為に、撚糸構造がどちら
かというと硬い風合と低い嵩高性をかもし出し、
スパンライク風合としては不充分なものであつ
た。また、この種の加工糸は仮撚加工中、或は製
織工程において糸条が糸ガイド等でしごかれると
捲付糸が芯糸との間で滑つてネツプを発生し、工
程中の糸切れ増加、織物品位の低下を招くという
問題があつた。 このような欠点を排除した複合糸として、本発
明者等は先に特願昭54−5519号で伸度の異る2糸
条を混繊交絡し、これを延伸仮撚法に付すること
により、以下に述べるような加工糸すなわち仮撚
捲縮加工を施された、少くとも2種のフイラメン
ト糸の一方を芯糸として、その周りに他方のフイ
ラメント糸が捲付いてなる二層構造糸において、
捲付糸を構成するフイラメントの一部は芯部のフ
イラメントとランダムに混合・交錯しつつも、捲
付糸全体としては芯糸の周りに連続反転交互撚糸
状に捲付いた改善されたスパンライク様外観、風
合を有する二層構造糸を提案した。このような複
合糸は従来の芯糸を完全に撚回する如き捲付構造
とは異つて交互撚糸における反転部を実質的に糸
軸方向に沿つて連続して存在させているため適度
な膨みを有し、しかも交絡点すなわち芯糸と捲付
糸との境界交絡によりしごき等の外力によつて捲
付糸が滑りネツプを発生するというような懸念が
なく恒久的に安定化されている。 しかし、その後の詳細な評価によると前記構造
糸を用いた布帛においては今一つ腰の面で物足り
ず、布帛としての機能性が未だ完全でないことが
判明した。 本発明の目的は上記構造糸の欠点を排除し、
腰、反撥がより優れた布帛を与えるスパンライク
複合糸を提供することにある。 本発明によれば、 二種以上のフイラメント糸条のうち一方の糸条
を芯糸として、他方の糸条の一部のフイラメント
が該芯糸と混合・交錯しつつ芯糸に連続反転交互
撚糸状に捲付き、しかも前記芯糸中にある混合・
交錯フイラメントが融着してなるスパンライク複
合糸 が提供される。 但し、上記の連続反転交互撚糸状とは、捲付糸
が芯糸の周囲にS、Zの交互撚糸状に捲付いては
いるが、各捲付部(SまたはZ部)では捲付糸が
芯糸の周囲を完全に1回以上捲付いたラセン状捲
付構造をとらず、360゜未満の捲付状態でもつて
反転している(所謂連続反転)ことを言う。 更に、これについて述べると、本発明は前述の
特願昭54−5519号で提案した複合糸の製造過程に
注目し、為されたものである。すなわち、前記提
案によれば捲付糸として、芯糸に比べて伸度の高
いもの(例えば未延長糸)が用いるが、この場合
芯糸中に存在する(芯糸と混合交錯した)フイラ
メントは延長仮撚中において、捲付部のフイラメ
ントに比べてその伸長率が低く、熱融着のし易さ
の点からみると(A)芯糸と混合・交錯したフイラメ
ント>(B)捲付部のフイラメント>(C)芯糸の順にな
る。従つて、この(A)のフイラメントは融着温度と
して従来の延長糸の場合に適用される240℃以上
といつた高温を必要とすることなく融着すること
になる。そこで、このような(A)のフイラメントの
みを融着させれば芯糸に腰を付与し、しかも本来
の芯糸たる(C)のフイラメントは実質、熱劣化(融
着)を起していないのでこれによる反撥性が得ら
れるのである。 以下、添付図面により説明すると第1図及び第
2図は本発明の複合糸の典型的な例であり、第1
図はその側面図、第2図は断面図である。第1図
において最も特徴的なことは捲付糸2は芯糸1の
周囲を完全に一回以上捲付いた所謂ラセン状捲付
部が実質的に存在しないことが挙げられる。その
代り捲付糸2は全体として連続的に交互反転して
おり、S、Z撚方向の部分は芯糸に対して360゜
未満の捲付状態となる。しかも、第2図に示す如
く捲付糸を構成する各フイラメント3の一部3′
は任意に芯部と交絡し且つ融着しているので、連
続交互反転という不完全捲付であつても芯糸と捲
付糸間には高度の結合性、一体性と改善された腰
が生じるのである。 斯かる複合糸の基本的特性は更に糸使いによつ
て強調される。例えば腰を向上させるには、芯糸
のフイラメント(単繊維)デニールとして2.0de
以上ものを用い、他方、これによつてもたらされ
る風合低下は捲付糸の単繊維デニール、更には捲
付糸のトータルデニール(D3)と芯糸のトータル
デニール(D4)の比率を一定範囲に収めることに
よつて、よりスパンライクな風合を表現すること
ができる。すなわち単繊維デニールが1.8de以下
のものにあつて(例えば2.0deのものと比べて)
de差からは到底考えられない柔軟な風合をかも
しだし、しかもこのようなフイラメント糸が連続
的に反転して捲付いていることから短いピツチつ
まり糸軸に対して捲付糸が交互に、逆方向に交叉
した状態が得られるので適度な撚糸効果が維持さ
れることになる。しかも、捲付状態は完全撚回の
場合に比べてルーズであり、且つ捲付糸全体とし
て反転しているのでスパンライクの風合(ふくら
み感とソフトタツチ)も一層現出する。 そして、このような効果を得るには捲付糸が芯
糸の囲りを充分に取捲いていることが肝要であり
このためにはD3/D4として0.5〜1.5の範囲が有用
である。 しかも上記の捲付自体一見不安定な構造にみえ
るにも拘らず、捲付糸及び芯糸を構成するフイラ
メントは部分的に互いに混合・交錯しているの
で、糸全体としては極めて安定(特にしごき力に
対して)であるという特徴がある。 このような複合糸は伸度差の異る少くとも2種
以上のフイラメント糸条を混繊・交絡した状態
で、特殊な延伸仮撚法に供し、芯糸中にある捲付
糸の一部のフイラメントを融着させることによつ
て得ることができる。 この場合、伸度差のある2種以上の原糸を交絡
処理してから仮撚具により加撚して、先ず捲付二
層撚糸構造を得ることが必要である。この為には
伸度の低い方の糸全が充分に延伸仮撚できること
が必要であると同時に更にこれと組合せる糸条の
伸度差が100%以上あることが必要である。交絡
処理した糸条は伸長差をもつ2糸条が混繊一体化
している為、そのまま加撚しても2層構造にはな
りにくい。ところが、伸度の少ない方の糸条に延
伸仮撚できる糸条を供給することによりこの問題
を解決できる。即ち、延伸と同時に仮撚加撚する
ことにより、交絡処理で混繊一体化した伸度差を
もつ糸が両糸の仮撚加工張力に対する伸長特性の
差異によつて、大まかにみると、張力の高いフイ
ラメント群と張力の低いフイラメント群とに再度
分離しつつも両群の繊維の一部が長さ方向に部分
的に交絡した糸条となり、それが仮撚装置により
撚糸される。この点から、伸度の低い方のフイラ
メント糸は少くとも1.2倍以上で延伸仮撚できる
ことが必要であるが、その延伸倍率が1.4倍以上
とれるとき、最も好ましい結果が得られる。更に
この時捲付2層撚糸構造を得る為には、2糸条の
伸度差の大きさが関係しており、従来の常識以上
に大きい伸度差が必要である。即ち、交絡のない
場合には、両糸条の伸度差は50%程度もあれば十
分2層構造となるが、交絡処理した場合には、
100%以上の伸度差が必要であり、就中150%以上
の伸度差があれば一層好ましい結果が得られる。 このように、2糸条間に大きな伸度差を与えて
おくことにより、延伸による混繊糸の二層への分
離の顕在化と相俟つて、初めて加撚領域で2層撚
糸構造が得られ、その後の解撚によつて連続的に
反転した交互捲付構造が得られるのである。 以上の如く、原糸の絡み処理は、二層構造を形
成するにはマイナスになつているが、それを延伸
仮撚できる糸を使い、さらに大きな伸度差の糸を
組合せることによつてカバーでき、結果としては
交絡処理、原糸伸度特性及び芯糸内での混合・交
錯糸の融着の相乗的利用により腰のある、連続反
転交互撚糸状捲付糸を得ることができるのであ
る。 本発明において原糸に付与する絡みは多い程よ
い。一般に交絡処理を施した場合、交絡部と開繊
部が繰返し単位となつて交絡糸を構成するが、本
発明を最適に実施する為には、交絡部の長さが長
く、開繊部の長さが短いような交絡を付与するの
が良い。しかも原糸に付与する交絡は、糸条全体
に一様に付与するのが理想的であり、その際50
個/m以上好ましくは後記実施例にも示すように
60個/m前後とすることにより本発明の範疇とい
える加工糸が得られる。即ち、巻付糸構成フイラ
メントが個々にはばらけながらも全体的な傾向と
してみるとSZ連続交互反転状の巻付構造を有す
る加工糸が得られ、この加工糸を織編物にすると
適度な撚糸的風合を有しつつも、スパンライクで
ふくらみのある柔軟な風合が得られる。 尚、交絡度の測定は次のようにして行なう。即
ち、交絡処理した原糸を容器にはつた水に浮かべ
たとき、交絡のない部分は数倍以上の太さに開繊
し、交絡点は開繊しないという性質を利用して、
交絡点の数を目で読みとる。 以上の如くして、本発明の加工糸が得られる
が、例えば通常のツイストピン方式のスピンドル
仮撚機で100m/min以下の速度で加工するとき
は問題ないが、もつとも高速化して低コストで加
工糸を得る為に、摩擦仮撚方式の採用により300
m/min以上で加工する場合には、解撚時に特殊
な条件を必要とする。もしも通常の仮撚条件で加
工した場合には、捲付糸が交互撚糸状に芯糸に捲
付かないで、芯糸と混繊・交絡しつつも、その糸
条表面に捲縮フイラメントが表出した、撚糸構造
を有しない加工糸となり、それより得られる織編
物もスパンライクとして不十分なものとなつてし
まう。この原因は、1つは高速加工下で解撚時に
糸条に作用する大きな遠心力である。 また、第2の原因は摩擦仮撚装置を使用する場
合には、通常施撚される糸条と摩擦撚掛装置の間
にいわゆるスリツプがあり、その為撚掛装置を離
れる点で、解撚され交互撚巻付構造が発生すると
同時にその瞬間撚掛装置とのスリツプによる好ま
しくない摩擦により、発生した交互撚巻付構造が
破壊される為である。 このような糸構造破壊の問題を解決すべく、更
に検討した結果、特殊な条件下で仮撚加工を行な
うことによつて、本発明の加工糸を理想的に製造
しうることが判つた。即ちそのポイントの1つは
得れる加工糸の構造が決定されてしまう解撚点で
の糸条に作用する遠心力を小さくすることであつ
て、具体的にや解燃点での糸条の回転半径を小さ
くすること、いいかえればバルーニング振幅を微
小にすることである。これは糸導ガイド等によつ
てバルーニングを小さくすればよいが、一般の仮
撚機に装着されている解撚部付近のガイドでは役
に立たない。高速化でのバルーニングは力が回転
角速度の2乗に比例することから非常に大きくな
つており、そのバルーニングを止めるには解撚点
(ツイストピン或は摩擦撚掛装置を離れる点)に
極端に接近してガイド等を設ける必要がある。 第2のポイントは特に摩擦仮撚装置の使用に関
する。即ち摩擦仮撚装置を使用する場合には、解
撚点で無理な外力が糸条に作用しないように撚掛
装置で糸条に施撚、解撚すると同時に、送り出し
力を作用させ、しかもその送り出し作用を通常の
摩擦仮撚加工では未解燃発生、断糸増加等の問題
の為に採用しない条件まで大きくすることであ
る。それをK値で表現すると、糸条を延伸しなが
ら仮撚するにもかかわらず、0.5<K値<0.9とす
るとき、理想的な連続交互反転捲付糸が得られ
る。例えば、加工速度500m/minの場合K値が
1.1になると捲付撚構造は甘くなり、K値が1.3を
越えると、もはや撚構造は認められなくなつてし
まう。 ここでK値とは、T1(仮撚加撚張力:g)と
T2(仮撚解燃張力:g)との比T2/T1で表わさ
れる。 尚、連続反転交互撚糸構造は完全な反転交互撚
からなるのが最も好ましいが、同方向連続撚捲付
が、長さ1cm程度以下のものが全糸長の2割程度
まで存在しても、実用上織編物は十分高水準な品
質に保持される。また3cm程度の長さの巻付不良
部がm当り2〜3個存在しても、同様に品質は高
水準に保持される。 本発明のスパンライク複合糸を得るための一実
施態様を第2図により説明すると、互いに伸度の
異る2糸条4,5はガイド6で合糸されてから張
力調整装置7、フイードローラー8を経て混繊・
交絡用の空気噴射ノズル9に供給され、ここで30
ケ/M以上の交絡点を有する交絡糸とされる。次
いで、この交絡糸は第1デリベリーローラー10
により延伸仮撚ゾーンに供給されヒーター11、
仮撚具12を経て、第2デリベリーローラー13
により引取られた後チーブ14として巻取られ
る。 上記工程において、芯糸と混合・交錯している
(捲付糸の)一部のフイラメントを選択的に融着
させるには185℃〜225℃程度のヒーター温度を採
用すればよい。このような温度の下では芯糸は延
伸されて実質的に延伸糸の物性に近くなるので芯
糸を融着させず、前記混合・交錯フイラメントを
選択的に融着させる特徴がある。また捲付フイラ
メントは芯糸との間に数十%にも及ぶ糸足差で捲
付いており(その分だけ余計に延伸されているこ
とを意味する)、混合・交錯フイラメント(A)のみ
を融着する温度を上記185℃〜225℃の範囲より選
宜選べばよい。 本発明において「フイラメント糸」とはポリエ
チレンテレフタレートを主たる対象とするが、15
モル%以下の割合で第3成分を共重合したもので
も差しつかえない。また該ポリエステルには艶消
剤、着色剤、難燃剤等の添加剤を含んでもさしつ
かえない。また、未延伸糸及び部分配向糸のフイ
ラメント断面形状、艶消剤の含有量、着色剤含有
の有無等を同じにしてもよいが、これらのうち少
なくとも何れかを異ならせてもよい。 また、空気噴射ノズルとしては一般に用いられ
ているインターレース加工用ノズルが好適でタス
ランノズルも適用できる。またインターレース処
理後一旦巻取つてもよく、巻取ることなく引続き
仮撚してもいずれでもよい。仮撚装置は糸を仮撚
すると同時に送り出す作用をもたせることのでき
る外接式摩擦仮撚装置が好適である。 以上、述べたように、本発明によれば腰があり
しかも適度な撚糸風合、ふくらみに加えて改善さ
れた柔軟性を有するスパンライクは織編物を提供
することができる。また、製編織中にあつても本
発明の複合糸はしごき等の力によつてネツプを発
生することもないので、製織性を改善し、しかも
高品位の織編物を提供する。 実施例 1 伸度120%が得られる紡糸速度によつて、トー
タルデニール225deでフイラメント数即ちフイラ
メントデニール(d2)を異にする種々のポリエス
テルフイラメントを得、夫々のフイラメント糸と
速度1380m/minの紡糸によつて得られた伸度
345%のポリエステルフイラメント糸(225de/
72fils)とを引揃えて第3図の工程で交絡処理及
び延伸仮撚加工を行なつた。 インターレースノズルにより、オーバーフイー
ド率2.5%、圧空圧3.5Kg/cm2で60個/mの交絡を
付与し、引続いて延伸倍率1.56倍、ヒーター温度
200℃、摩擦仮撚装置の表面速度700m/min、第
2デデリベローラ速度350m/min、K値(解撚
張力/加撚張力)0.75の条件下で延伸仮撚加工し
た。 得られた加工糸は第1〜2図に示すような連続
交互撚糸状捲付糸であつた。捲付糸の実質延伸倍
率は延伸仮撚による延伸倍率1.56倍と仮撚により
発生した芯糸との平均糸足差35%の結果、平均
2.1倍であつた。またこの加工糸はしごいてもネ
ツプは発生せず、製織上のトラブルもなかつた。 更に、これらの複合糸を用いた織物の腰、触感
について官能検査をした際の評価結果を第1表に
示す。
The present invention relates to a spun-like composite yarn, and more particularly to a spun-like composite yarn that swells and has a soft feel due to its slimy feel, as well as a moderate stiffness. Conventionally, as a method for manufacturing spunlike composite yarn, two or more types of yarns with different elongations are drawn, as described in JP-A-49-72443 and JP-A-49-47644. By aligning them and subjecting them to false twisting and crimp processing, it is possible to create a two-layer crimped yarn in which the yarns with lower elongation act as a core and the yarns with higher elongation surround it in the form of alternating yarns. Are known. In addition, as another method for manufacturing the double-layered yarn having the above-mentioned configuration, the wrapped yarn is overfed using the rotating torque of the core yarn in a twisted (false-twisted) state by a false-twisting spindle. It is also well known to wrap it around. (For example, see Japanese Patent Publication No. 45-28018.) In the double-layered yarns obtained by these methods, the twisted yarn is generally wound around the core yarn in an alternately twisted manner, so that the twisting effect is It is said to have a span-like texture.
In each twisted yarn area (S or Z winding section), there are usually at least three twists, and this produces the above-mentioned twisting effect. Incidentally, the pre-burned textured yarn having such a yarn structure had the advantage of improving the sliminess and fluffiness, which are the drawbacks of ordinary woolly textured yarn fabrics, due to its twisted yarn structure, but on the other hand, Because the wound yarn is wound in a tight bundle, the twisted yarn structure creates a rather hard texture and low bulk.
The texture was insufficient as a span-like texture. In addition, in this type of processed yarn, when the yarn is squeezed by a yarn guide etc. during the false twisting process or the weaving process, the wrapped yarn slips between the core yarn and neps occur, causing the yarn to become loose during the process. There were problems of increased breakage and deterioration of fabric quality. In order to create a composite yarn that eliminates such drawbacks, the present inventors previously proposed in Japanese Patent Application No. 54-5519, in which two yarns with different elongations were mixed and intertwined, and this was subjected to a stretch false twisting method. A two-layer structure yarn in which one of at least two kinds of filament yarns is used as a core yarn and the other filament yarn is wound around the processed yarn described below, that is, at least two types of filament yarns that have been subjected to a false twist crimp process. In,
Although some of the filaments constituting the winding yarn are randomly mixed and intertwined with the filaments in the core, the winding yarn as a whole is wound around the core yarn in a continuous reversal alternating twist pattern, resulting in an improved spun-like structure. We proposed a two-layer yarn with a similar appearance and texture. Unlike the conventional winding structure in which the core yarn is completely twisted, such a composite yarn has a reversal part in the alternately twisted yarn that exists continuously along the yarn axis direction, so it can be expanded appropriately. Moreover, due to intertwining points, that is, boundary entanglement between the core yarn and the winding yarn, there is no concern that the winding yarn will slip due to external force such as ironing, and is permanently stabilized. . However, subsequent detailed evaluation revealed that the fabric using the above-mentioned structural threads was unsatisfactory in terms of stiffness, and its functionality as a fabric was not yet perfect. The purpose of the present invention is to eliminate the drawbacks of the above structural yarns,
The purpose of the present invention is to provide a spun-like composite yarn that provides a fabric with superior elasticity and resilience. According to the present invention, one of the two or more types of filament yarns is used as a core yarn, and some filaments of the other yarn are mixed and intertwined with the core yarn, and the yarn is continuously inverted and alternately twisted into the core yarn. It is wound in a shape, and the mixture and
A spunlike composite yarn formed by fusing intersecting filaments is provided. However, the above-mentioned continuous reversal alternating twisted yarn type means that although the wound yarn is wound around the core yarn in an S and Z alternating twisted yarn form, at each winding part (S or Z part), the wound yarn is It does not have a helical winding structure in which the thread is completely wrapped around the core thread one or more times, but is reversed even when the thread is wound less than 360 degrees (so-called continuous reversal). Further, in this regard, the present invention has been made by paying attention to the manufacturing process of composite yarn proposed in the above-mentioned Japanese Patent Application No. 54-5519. That is, according to the above proposal, a yarn with higher elongation than the core yarn (for example, unextended yarn) is used as the winding yarn, but in this case, the filaments present in the core yarn (mixed and crossed with the core yarn) are During extended false twisting, the elongation rate is lower than that of the filament in the wrapped part, and from the point of view of ease of heat-sealing, (A) filament mixed and crossed with the core yarn > (B) wrapped part The order is filament > (C) core thread. Therefore, the filament (A) can be fused without requiring a high fusion temperature of 240° C. or higher, which is applied in the case of conventional extended threads. Therefore, if only the filament (A) is fused, stiffness will be imparted to the core yarn, and the filament (C), which is the original core yarn, will not actually undergo thermal deterioration (fusion). This provides repellency. The following will be explained with reference to the accompanying drawings. Figures 1 and 2 show typical examples of the composite yarn of the present invention.
The figure is a side view, and FIG. 2 is a sectional view. The most characteristic feature in FIG. 1 is that the wound yarn 2 has substantially no so-called helical winding portion where the wound yarn 2 is completely wound around the core yarn 1 one or more times. Instead, the wound yarn 2 as a whole is continuously and alternately reversed, and the portions in the S and Z twist directions are wound at an angle of less than 360° with respect to the core yarn. Moreover, as shown in FIG.
Since the threads are arbitrarily intertwined and fused with the core, even if the winding is incomplete due to continuous alternating reversals, there is a high level of connectivity, integrity, and improved stiffness between the core thread and the winding thread. It happens. The basic properties of such composite yarns are further emphasized by the yarn usage. For example, to improve the waist, the filament (single fiber) denier of the core yarn should be 2.0 de.
On the other hand, the deterioration in hand caused by this can be determined by changing the single fiber denier of the wound yarn, and furthermore, the ratio of the total denier of the wound yarn (D 3 ) to the total denier of the core yarn (D 4 ). By keeping it within a certain range, a more spun-like texture can be expressed. In other words, if the single fiber denier is 1.8 de or less (compared to, for example, 2.0 de)
It creates a soft texture that is impossible to imagine from the difference in deformation, and because the filament yarn is wound continuously in reverse, the winding yarn is alternately reversed and reversed at short pitches, that is, around the yarn axis. Since a state in which the directions are crossed is obtained, an appropriate twisting effect is maintained. Moreover, the winding state is looser than in the case of complete twisting, and since the winding yarn as a whole is reversed, the spun-like texture (bulge feeling and soft touch) is even more apparent. In order to obtain such an effect, it is important that the winding yarn sufficiently surrounds the core yarn, and for this purpose, a range of 0.5 to 1.5 is useful for D 3 /D 4 . . Moreover, although the winding itself appears to have an unstable structure at first glance, the filaments that make up the winding yarn and the core yarn are partially mixed and intertwined with each other, so the yarn as a whole is extremely stable (especially when ironed). It has the characteristic that it is (with respect to force). Such composite yarns are made by mixing and intertwining at least two types of filament yarns with different elongation differences, and then subjecting them to a special drawing false twisting method, whereby a part of the wrapped yarn in the core yarn is mixed and entangled. can be obtained by fusing filaments of In this case, it is necessary to first obtain a wound two-layer twisted yarn structure by intertwining two or more raw yarns with different elongations and then twisting them using a false twisting tool. For this purpose, it is necessary that all of the yarns with lower elongation can be sufficiently drawn and false-twisted, and at the same time, it is also necessary that the difference in elongation between the yarns to be combined with this yarn is 100% or more. Since the intertwined yarn is a mixture of two yarns with different elongations, it is difficult to form a two-layer structure even if the yarn is twisted as is. However, this problem can be solved by supplying a yarn that can be drawn and false-twisted to the yarn with lower elongation. In other words, by false-twisting and twisting at the same time as drawing, yarns with different elongations that are integrated by the interlacing process can have a tension difference due to the difference in elongation characteristics of both yarns against the false-twisting tension. While the filaments are separated again into a filament group with high tension and a filament group with low tension, some of the fibers of both groups become yarns partially intertwined in the length direction, which are twisted by a false twisting device. From this point of view, it is necessary that the filament yarn with lower elongation can be drawn and false-twisted at least 1.2 times or more, but the most preferable results are obtained when the drawing ratio is 1.4 times or more. Furthermore, in order to obtain the wound two-layer twisted yarn structure at this time, the magnitude of the difference in elongation between the two yarns is relevant, and a difference in elongation that is larger than conventionally known is required. In other words, if there is no entanglement, a difference in elongation between the two yarns of about 50% is enough to create a two-layer structure, but when the yarn is entangled,
A difference in elongation of 100% or more is required, and more preferable results can be obtained if the difference in elongation is 150% or more. In this way, by providing a large elongation difference between the two yarns, the separation of the mixed fiber yarn into two layers due to drawing becomes apparent, and a two-layer twisted yarn structure is obtained for the first time in the twisted region. Then, by untwisting, a continuously reversed alternately wound structure is obtained. As mentioned above, the entanglement treatment of the raw yarn has a negative effect on forming a two-layer structure, but it can be improved by using yarn that can be drawn and false-twisted, and by combining yarns with a larger elongation difference. As a result, by synergistic use of the interlacing process, the elongation characteristics of the raw yarn, and the fusion of mixing and interlacing yarns within the core yarn, it is possible to obtain a continuously reversed alternately twisted yarn with stiffness. be. In the present invention, the more entanglements imparted to the yarn, the better. Generally, when an interlacing process is performed, the intertwined part and the spread part become a repeating unit to form an intertwined yarn. However, in order to carry out the present invention optimally, the length of the intertwined part is long and the length of the spread part is long. It is better to provide a confound with a short length. Moreover, it is ideal that the entanglement applied to the raw yarn be applied uniformly to the entire yarn;
pieces/m or more, preferably as shown in the examples below.
By setting the number to around 60 pieces/m, a processed yarn that can be said to be within the scope of the present invention can be obtained. In other words, even though the filaments constituting the wound yarn are individually separated, when looking at the overall tendency, a processed yarn with an SZ continuous alternating inversion winding structure is obtained, and when this processed yarn is made into a woven or knitted fabric, it becomes a moderately twisted yarn. It has a soft feel that is spun-like and full, while still having a soft texture. Note that the degree of entanglement is measured as follows. In other words, when the entangled raw yarn is floated in water in a container, the non-entangled part opens to several times the thickness, while the entangled point does not open.
Visually read the number of intersecting points. As described above, the processed yarn of the present invention can be obtained, but there is no problem when processing it at a speed of 100 m/min or less using a normal twist pin type spindle false twisting machine, for example, but it is impossible to increase the speed and reduce the cost. 300 by adopting friction false twisting method to obtain processed yarn.
When processing at m/min or higher, special conditions are required during untwisting. If processed under normal false twisting conditions, the wound yarn will not wrap around the core yarn in an alternately twisted manner, but will be mixed and intertwined with the core yarn, but crimped filaments will be exposed on the surface of the yarn. The resulting processed yarn does not have a twisted yarn structure, and the woven or knitted fabric obtained therefrom is also insufficient as spun-like. One reason for this is the large centrifugal force that acts on the yarn during untwisting under high-speed processing. The second reason is that when a frictional false twisting device is used, there is a so-called slip between the threads that are normally twisted and the frictional twisting device, and as a result, when the yarn leaves the twisting device, the untwisting occurs. This is because, at the same time as the alternating twist winding structure is generated, the generated alternating twist winding structure is destroyed due to unfavorable friction caused by slipping with the instant twisting device. In order to solve this problem of yarn structure destruction, further studies revealed that the textured yarn of the present invention can be ideally produced by performing false twisting under special conditions. That is, one of the points is to reduce the centrifugal force that acts on the yarn at the untwisting point, which determines the structure of the resulting processed yarn. The idea is to make the radius smaller, or in other words, to make the ballooning amplitude minute. This can be done by reducing the ballooning by using a yarn guiding guide or the like, but the guide near the untwisting section installed in a general false twisting machine is not useful. Ballooning at high speeds becomes extremely large because the force is proportional to the square of the rotational angular velocity, and in order to stop the ballooning, extreme pressure must be applied to the untwisting point (the point where it leaves the twist pin or friction twisting device). It is necessary to get closer and provide a guide, etc. The second point relates specifically to the use of friction false twisting devices. In other words, when using a friction false twisting device, a twisting device is used to twist and untwist the yarn, and at the same time, a feeding force is applied to the yarn so that an unreasonable external force does not act on the yarn at the untwisting point. The purpose is to increase the feeding action to a condition that cannot be used in normal frictional false twisting due to problems such as unresolved combustion and increased yarn breakage. Expressing this in terms of K value, even though the yarn is false-twisted while being drawn, when 0.5<K value<0.9, an ideal continuous alternately wound yarn can be obtained. For example, when the machining speed is 500m/min, the K value is
When the K value is 1.1, the twisted structure becomes weak, and when the K value exceeds 1.3, the twisted structure is no longer recognized. Here, the K value is T 1 (false twisting tension: g) and
It is expressed as the ratio T 2 /T 1 with T 2 (false twisting tension: g). It is most preferable that the continuous reversal alternating twist yarn structure consists of complete reversal alternating twists, but even if the same direction continuous twisting is present up to about 20% of the total yarn length, For practical purposes, woven and knitted fabrics are maintained at a sufficiently high level of quality. Furthermore, even if there are 2 to 3 defective winding parts per meter of length of about 3 cm, the quality is maintained at a high level. One embodiment for obtaining the spunlike composite yarn of the present invention will be explained with reference to FIG. Mixed fibers pass through roller 8.
Air is supplied to the interlacing air injection nozzle 9, where 30
It is considered to be an interlaced yarn having more than K/M interlacing points. Next, this intertwined yarn is transferred to the first delivery roller 10
heater 11,
After passing through the false twisting tool 12, the second delivery roller 13
After being picked up by the operator, it is wound up as a tube 14. In the above process, a heater temperature of approximately 185° C. to 225° C. may be used to selectively fuse some of the filaments (of the wound yarn) that are mixed and crossed with the core yarn. At such temperatures, the core yarn is drawn and has physical properties substantially close to those of the drawn yarn, so that the core yarn is not fused and the mixed/intersected filaments are selectively fused. In addition, the wound filament is wound with a yarn length difference of several tens of percent between itself and the core yarn (meaning that it is stretched by that amount), and only the mixed/intersected filament (A) can be used. The temperature for fusing may be selected from the above range of 185°C to 225°C. In the present invention, "filament yarn" mainly refers to polyethylene terephthalate, but 15
It is also possible to copolymerize the third component in a proportion of mol % or less. The polyester may also contain additives such as matting agents, colorants, flame retardants, and the like. Further, although the undrawn yarn and the partially oriented yarn may have the same filament cross-sectional shape, content of matting agent, presence or absence of colorant, etc., at least any of these may be different. Further, as the air injection nozzle, a generally used nozzle for interlace processing is suitable, and a Taslan nozzle can also be applied. Further, the material may be wound up once after the interlacing treatment, or may be false-twisted without being wound up. Preferably, the false twisting device is a circumferential friction false twisting device that can both false twist the yarn and send it out at the same time. As described above, according to the present invention, it is possible to provide a spun-like woven or knitted fabric that is stiff and has an appropriate twist texture, fullness, and improved flexibility. Further, even during weaving, neps are not generated by the force of the composite yarn of the present invention, such as by stepping, improving weavability and providing high-quality woven or knitted fabrics. Example 1 Various polyester filaments with a total denier of 225 de and different numbers of filaments, that is, filament denier (d 2 ) were obtained depending on the spinning speed at which an elongation of 120% was obtained. Elongation obtained by spinning
345% polyester filament yarn (225de/
72fils) were aligned and subjected to intertwining treatment and stretching false twisting in the process shown in Figure 3. Using an interlace nozzle, 60 entanglements/m were applied at an overfeed rate of 2.5% and a compressed air pressure of 3.5 Kg/ cm2 , followed by a stretching ratio of 1.56 times and a heater temperature.
Stretching and false-twisting were performed at 200° C. under the conditions of a friction false-twisting device surface speed of 700 m/min, a second de-delivery roller speed of 350 m/min, and a K value (untwisting tension/twisting tension) of 0.75. The obtained processed yarn was a continuously alternately twisted thread-like yarn as shown in FIGS. 1 and 2. The actual draw ratio of the wound yarn is 1.56 times due to the draw false twisting and the average yarn length difference of 35% between the draw ratio and the core yarn generated due to the false twist.
It was 2.1 times as hot. Further, even when this processed yarn was squeezed, no neps occurred, and there were no weaving problems. Furthermore, Table 1 shows the evaluation results of a sensory test regarding the stiffness and feel of fabrics using these composite yarns.

【表】 No.1〜3は加工糸の芯糸単繊維デニールが2de
より小さい為、やや腰が不足し、またNo.5はヒー
ター温度180℃の加工によるもので芯部に融着が
存しない為、やや腰が不足していた。 No.4、No.6〜8は芯糸の単繊維デニールが2de
以上で腰が十分あり、単繊維デニールが太い程効
果が顕著であつた。またいずれの例も捲付糸の単
繊維デニールが1.5deと細く、ソフトでぬめりの
あるタツチでウールライクな触感であつた。 実施例 2 速度3200m/minの紡糸によつて225de/48fils
(伸度115%)のポリエステルフイラメント糸を
得、伸度が略300%の未延伸糸が得られる紡糸速
度で、フイラメント数即ち単繊維繊度(d1)を異
にするポリエステルフイラメント糸を得、両糸条
を引揃えて第3図の工程で交絡処理及び延伸仮燃
加工を行なつた。 インターレースノズルにより、オーバーフイー
ド率1.5%、圧空圧4Kg/cm2で65個/mの交絡を
付与し、引続いて延伸倍率1.56倍、ヒーター温度
210℃、摩擦仮撚装置の表面速度700m/min、第
2デリベリローラ速度350m/min、K値(解撚
張力/加撚張力)0.8の条件下で延伸仮撚加工し
た。 得られた加工糸は第1〜2図に示すような連続
交互撚糸状捲付糸であつた。捲付糸の実質延伸倍
率は延長仮撚による延伸倍率1.56倍と仮撚により
発生した芯糸との平均糸足差35%の結果、平均延
伸倍率は2.1倍であつた。 更に、これらの複合糸を用いた織物の腰、触感
について官能検査をした際の評価結果を第2表に
示す。
[Table] No. 1 to 3 have a core yarn single fiber denier of 2de.
Because it is smaller, it lacks some stiffness, and No. 5 is processed at a heater temperature of 180°C, so there is no fusion in the core, so it lacks some stiffness. No. 4, No. 6 to 8 have a single fiber denier of core yarn of 2 de.
The effect was more pronounced as the waist was more than sufficient and the single fiber denier was thicker. In addition, in each case, the single fiber denier of the wrapped thread was as thin as 1.5 de, and the yarn had a soft, slimy touch with a wool-like feel. Example 2 225de/48fils by spinning at a speed of 3200m/min
(elongation of 115%), polyester filament yarns with different numbers of filaments, that is, single fiber fineness (d 1 ), were obtained at a spinning speed that yielded undrawn yarn with an elongation of approximately 300%, Both yarns were aligned and subjected to intertwining treatment and drawing pre-combustion processing in the steps shown in FIG. Using an interlace nozzle, 65 entanglements/m were applied at an overfeed rate of 1.5% and a compressed air pressure of 4 Kg/ cm2 , followed by a stretching ratio of 1.56 times and a heater temperature.
Stretching and false-twisting were performed at 210° C. under the conditions of a friction false-twisting device surface speed of 700 m/min, a second delivery roller speed of 350 m/min, and a K value (untwisting tension/twisting tension) of 0.8. The obtained processed yarn was a continuously alternately twisted thread-like yarn as shown in FIGS. 1 and 2. The actual stretching ratio of the wound yarn was 2.1 times as a result of the stretching ratio of 1.56 times due to extended false twisting and the average yarn length difference of 35% between the core yarn and the core yarn generated by false twisting. Furthermore, Table 2 shows the evaluation results of a sensory test regarding the stiffness and feel of fabrics using these composite yarns.

【表】 No.9〜13は捲付糸の単繊維デニールが1.8de以
下で、ソフトでぬめりのあるウールライクな触感
であつた。 しかしNo.14〜15は捲付糸の単繊維デニールが
2.0de以上で、その表面タツチはガサツキ感があ
り、特にNo.15は衣料として不適当なものであつ
た。 またNo.12はヒーター温度180℃の加工によるも
ので、芯部に融着が存しない為、やや腰が不足し
ていた。 実施例 3 伸度120%が得られる紡糸速度によつて、トー
タルデニール(D2)、単繊維デニール(d2)を異
にする種々のポリエステルフイラメントを得、
夫々のフイラメント糸と速度1380m/minの紡糸
によつて得られた伸度345%のポリエステルフイ
ラメント糸(225de/72fils)とを引揃えて第3
図の工程で実施例1と同条件で交絡処理及び延伸
仮撚加工を行なつた。 得られた加工糸は第1〜2図に示すような連続
交互撚糸状捲付糸であつた。また仮撚により発生
した糸足差は平均35%であり、捲付糸の実質延伸
倍率は平均2.1倍であつた。 更に、これらの複合糸を用いた織物の腰、触感
について官能検査をした際の評価を第3表に示
す。
[Table] Nos. 9 to 13 had a single fiber denier of the wound yarn of 1.8 de or less, and had a soft, slimy, wool-like feel. However, for No. 14 to 15, the single fiber denier of the winding yarn is
With a diameter of 2.0 de or more, the surface touch felt rough, and No. 15 in particular was unsuitable for use as clothing. In addition, No. 12 was processed at a heater temperature of 180°C, and as there was no fusion in the core, it lacked some stiffness. Example 3 Various polyester filaments with different total denier (D 2 ) and single fiber denier (d 2 ) were obtained depending on the spinning speed at which an elongation of 120% was obtained.
Each filament yarn was aligned with a polyester filament yarn (225 de/72 fils) with an elongation of 345% obtained by spinning at a speed of 1380 m/min, and a third
In the process shown in the figure, entangling treatment and stretching false twisting were performed under the same conditions as in Example 1. The obtained processed yarn was a continuously alternately twisted thread-like yarn as shown in FIGS. 1 and 2. Furthermore, the difference in yarn length caused by false twisting was 35% on average, and the actual stretching ratio of the wound yarn was 2.1 times on average. Furthermore, Table 3 shows the sensory evaluation of the stiffness and feel of the fabrics using these composite yarns.

【表】 No.16〜17はデニール比D3/D4が0.5より小さい
為、捲付糸が芯糸を完全に被覆できず、芯糸の単
繊維デニールの太いタツチが表面にでてソフト
感、ぬめり感に欠けるものであつた。 No.18〜20、No.22はD3/D4が0.5〜1.5の範囲にあ
つて、腰があるとともに表面のタツチもソフトで
ぬめり感があり、スパンライクであつた。但しNo.
21はヒーター温度180℃で加工した為芯部の融着
がなくやや腰が不足していた。 No.23、24はD3/D4が1.5を越えるもので、芯糸
トータルデニールの割合が少ない為、腰の不足す
るものであつた。
[Table] For Nos. 16 to 17, the denier ratio D 3 / D 4 is smaller than 0.5, so the winding yarn cannot completely cover the core yarn, and the thick single fiber denier of the core yarn appears on the surface and is soft. It lacked texture and sliminess. Nos. 18 to 20 and No. 22 had D 3 /D 4 in the range of 0.5 to 1.5, had firmness, and had a soft and slimy surface texture, similar to spun. However, No.
21 was processed at a heater temperature of 180°C, so there was no fusion in the core, and it lacked some stiffness. Nos. 23 and 24 had a D 3 /D 4 of more than 1.5 and had a low ratio of total denier of the core yarn, so they lacked stiffness.

【図面の簡単な説明】[Brief explanation of the drawing]

第1図は本発明の加工糸の糸構造を示す拡大側
面図、第2図はその断面図、第3図は本発明の加
工糸を製造する工程の一態様を示す概略図であ
る。 1:芯糸、2:捲付糸、3:捲付糸を構成する
フイラメント、3′:融着フイラメント、4,
5:原糸、6:ガイド、7:張力装置、8:フイ
ードローラ、9:インターレースノズル、10:
第1デリベリローラ、11:ヒーター、12:仮
撚具、13:第2デリベリローラ、14:巻取チ
ーズ。
FIG. 1 is an enlarged side view showing the yarn structure of the processed yarn of the present invention, FIG. 2 is a sectional view thereof, and FIG. 3 is a schematic diagram showing one aspect of the process for manufacturing the processed yarn of the present invention. 1: Core yarn, 2: Wound yarn, 3: Filament constituting the wound yarn, 3': Fusion filament, 4,
5: Yarn, 6: Guide, 7: Tension device, 8: Feed roller, 9: Interlace nozzle, 10:
1st delivery roller, 11: heater, 12: false twister, 13: second delivery roller, 14: rolled cheese.

Claims (1)

【特許請求の範囲】 1 二種以上のフイラメント糸条のうち一方の糸
条を芯糸として、他方の糸条の一部のフイラメン
トが該芯糸と混合・交錯しつつ芯糸に連続反転交
互撚糸状に捲付き、しかも前記芯糸中にある混
合・交錯フイラメントが融着してなるスパンライ
ク複合糸。 但し、上記の連続反転交互撚糸状とは、捲付糸
が芯糸の周囲にS、Zの交互撚糸状に捲付いては
いるが、各捲付部(SまたはZ部)では捲付糸が
芯糸の周囲を完全に1回以上捲付いたラセン状捲
付構造をとらず、360゜未満の捲付状態でもつて
反転している(所謂連続反転)ことを言う。 2 捲付糸の単繊維デニールが1.8以下である、
特許請求の範囲第1項記載の複合糸。 3 芯糸の単繊維デニールが2.0以上である特許
請求の範囲第1項記載のスパンライク複合糸。 4 芯糸のトータルデニール(D4)と捲付糸のト
ータルデニール(D3)が0.5≦D3/D4≦1.5である
特許請求の範囲第1項記載のスパンライク複合
糸。
[Scope of Claims] 1. One of the two or more types of filament yarns is used as a core yarn, and some filaments of the other yarn are mixed and intertwined with the core yarn and are continuously and alternately reversed to the core yarn. A spun-like composite yarn that is wound into a twisted yarn shape and is formed by fusing mixed and crossed filaments in the core yarn. However, the above-mentioned continuous reversal alternating twisted yarn type means that although the wound yarn is wound around the core yarn in an S and Z alternating twisted yarn form, at each winding part (S or Z part), the wound yarn is It does not have a helical winding structure in which the thread is completely wrapped around the core thread one or more times, but is reversed even when the thread is wound less than 360 degrees (so-called continuous reversal). 2. The single fiber denier of the winding yarn is 1.8 or less.
Composite yarn according to claim 1. 3. The spunlike composite yarn according to claim 1, wherein the core yarn has a single fiber denier of 2.0 or more. 4. The spunlike composite yarn according to claim 1, wherein the total denier (D 4 ) of the core yarn and the total denier (D 3 ) of the wrapped yarn satisfy 0.5≦D 3 /D 4 ≦1.5.
JP9418879A 1979-07-26 1979-07-26 Spun like composite yarn Granted JPS5620627A (en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP9418879A JPS5620627A (en) 1979-07-26 1979-07-26 Spun like composite yarn

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP9418879A JPS5620627A (en) 1979-07-26 1979-07-26 Spun like composite yarn

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
JPS5620627A JPS5620627A (en) 1981-02-26
JPS6235493B2 true JPS6235493B2 (en) 1987-08-03

Family

ID=14103322

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
JP9418879A Granted JPS5620627A (en) 1979-07-26 1979-07-26 Spun like composite yarn

Country Status (1)

Country Link
JP (1) JPS5620627A (en)

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPH0768655B2 (en) * 1987-05-12 1995-07-26 株式会社クラレ Special false twisted yarn

Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPS5365436A (en) * 1976-10-13 1978-06-10 Toray Industries Agglutinated composite yarn and method of manufacture thereof
JPS5398450A (en) * 1977-02-04 1978-08-28 Unitika Ltd Method of manufacture of fusionncohering yarn
JPS5598931A (en) * 1979-01-23 1980-07-28 Teijin Ltd Two layer structure yarn having spun like appearance and feeling

Patent Citations (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPS5365436A (en) * 1976-10-13 1978-06-10 Toray Industries Agglutinated composite yarn and method of manufacture thereof
JPS5398450A (en) * 1977-02-04 1978-08-28 Unitika Ltd Method of manufacture of fusionncohering yarn
JPS5598931A (en) * 1979-01-23 1980-07-28 Teijin Ltd Two layer structure yarn having spun like appearance and feeling

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
JPS5620627A (en) 1981-02-26

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