JPS6214660B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

The present invention relates to a method for producing a raised fabric having a texture very similar to that of woolen fabric using thermoplastic filament yarn (so-called unprocessed raw silk). Attempts to make synthetic fibers approximate the feel of woolen fabrics have generally been made in the form of false twisted crimped yarn fabrics. However, false twisted crimped yarn (hereinafter referred to as false twisted yarn)
The fabrics used generally have poor repellency and poor drapability. Furthermore, the fatal flaw of this fabric is that it lacks the fullness and soft feel characteristic of woolen fabrics, and for this reason, it is rarely used as a thick material for autumn/winter clothing. . Raising with cloth was proposed as a means of overcoming the drawbacks of processed yarn fabrics, but since each single fiber has crimps, the raised condition is extremely poor (nep-like raised naps occur). This has the disadvantage that attached foreign matter is difficult to remove, and also causes quality problems such as pilling. For this reason, Japanese Patent Publication No. 50-26661 discloses that two or more types of false-twisted yarns with different single fiber deniers are guided into a turbulent flow zone under different overfeeds, and the two are intertwined to form a composite bulky yarn. It has been proposed to make woven and knitted fabrics from this. In the case of woven and knitted fabrics produced by this method, the occurrence of pilling is prevented to some extent because the yarns themselves are entangled, but overall the crimp characteristics of the false twisted yarn are strongly manifested, and the texture is different from that of woolen fabrics. You can only get so far. Furthermore, JP-A-49
Publication No. 72442 discloses that a stretchable bulky yarn (crimped yarn) and a non-stretchable bulky yarn are introduced into a turbulent flow zone under different overfeeds to obtain a composite yarn. The composite yarn obtained in this way has loops and slack on the yarn surface, and is said to have a texture similar to that of spun yarn, but in actual woven and knitted fabrics, crimped yarn Not only are these characteristics predominant, but it also feels rough and hard.
Furthermore, when the fabric surfaces come into contact with each other, the slacks and loops existing on the fabric surface become entangled with each other, creating a fastener phenomenon similar to Velcro tape, which causes problems in fabric handling. In order to eliminate this fastener phenomenon and the rough and stiff feel of the fabric, it is natural to think of raising the fabric, but in this case, only the surface of the fabric is raised, and on the contrary, the feel is not consistent in the cross-sectional direction of the fabric. Separation occurs. In other words, while the surface of the fabric becomes softer due to the nap, the inside becomes noticeably stiffer, resulting in a nape fabric with a core, which further deviates from that of a well-seasoned woolen fabric without a core. Therefore, an object of the present invention is to provide a fabric made of filament yarns of synthetic fibers, which has a feel, feel, resilience, and drape bulk comparable to that of woolen fabrics. The goal is to open up a new field as a material for autumn and winter clothing. As a result of various studies to achieve the above object, the inventors of the present invention have found that in order to obtain a texture and feel very similar to that of woolen fabrics to fabrics made of synthetic fibers, unprocessed filament yarns are preferred rather than false twisted yarns. They found that it is appropriate to use raw silk (raw silk), and also determined that it is important to use a mixed denier yarn as the filament yarn and to apply two-stage raising, and have arrived at the present invention. Thus, according to the invention, a filament of synthetic fiber with a thickness of 2 to 5 DE is located relatively in the core and is thinner than said filament;
A blended loop yarn in which filaments of synthetic fibers with a diameter of 3 DE or less intertwine and intertwine with the filaments of the core in an uncrimped state and protrude from the yarn surface to form loops and slacks is subjected to a napping treatment to produce at least 30%
Provided is a method for producing a woolen fabric-like fabric, which comprises using a raised yarn having a fluff of 1.5 mm/cm, weaving using the raised yarn, and further subjecting the fabric to a raising treatment. Furthermore, regarding this, in the present invention, the first condition for obtaining a fabric that has "rich repulsion and a flexible feel", which can be said to be the basic characteristics of woolen fabrics, is the thickness (denier) of the filament.
The key is to select the In other words, by placing a relatively thin denier filament on the surface of the yarn (fabric) and a relatively thick denier filament in the core of the yarn, the former provides a softer feel and the latter provides more repulsion. From the viewpoint of
2.7 to 0.3de) is preferable. However, the above denier relationship is only a sufficient condition for achieving the purpose of the present invention.
These filaments of different deniers are mixed with each other, and in this case, it is necessary that the finer deniers protrude from the yarn surface to form loops and slacks. These loops and slacks are cut and turned into mixed fiber yarns, which are then used for weaving as warp and weft yarns. After this, the fabric is again subjected to the raising treatment, and the purpose of this raising treatment is to increase the fluff on the surface of the fabric and thus to increase its soft feel. On the other hand, blended loop yarn (hereinafter referred to as
Raising in the state of mixed fiber yarn (sometimes referred to as mixed yarn) is aimed at loosening the interior of the fabric and increasing its bulk.As a result, in the case of the present invention, the bulk and flexibility of the fabric as a whole are maintained. (in other words, there is no core and the fabric is in a well-seasoned state), the above-mentioned tendency is noticeable on the surface of the fabric. The need for such two or more stages of raising arises from the following reasons.
That is, simply raising the yarn in the mixed yarn state does not significantly generate fluff, and if you try to forcefully create fluff, the strength of the yarn itself decreases, making it impossible to put it to practical use. On the other hand, when a woven fabric is made from the blended yarn without being subjected to napping treatment, the surface of the fabric is simply brushed and the inside of the fabric takes on a tight structure. Only brushed fabrics can be obtained. In carrying out the present invention, first, the production of a mixed fiber yarn begins. For this TWO FEED TASLAN
A well-known method, also called the method, employs at least two supply roller yarns and separately feeds a fine denier filament and a thick denier filament (the fine denier filament is fed more than the thick denier filament). are fed to a turbulent flow nozzle under overfeed, mixed and agitated with each other to form a mixed fiber yarn having loops, and then wound through a delivery roller.
In this case, the overfeed amount of each filament needs to be within a certain range. In other words, if the overfeed amount of the core component (those with a relatively large filament denier) is increased, the dough will have a strong rough and hard feel and will have a poor "melting", while if the overfeed amount is small, the filament will have a fine denier. The blending of fibers becomes worse. On the other hand, if the amount of overfeed of the fine denier filament serving as the sheath component is too small, it becomes difficult to raise the yarn, and on the other hand, if the overfeed becomes large, the mixed fiber state deteriorates. Considering the above, the core component is 5-15% and the sheath component is 20-50%.
Select as appropriate within the range of 45 with a thread difference of at least 5%.
% or less. Regarding the supplied yarn, it is possible to obtain a marbling effect by piece dyeing by using a filament made of a different dye material, for example, cationic dye-dyable polyester in the case of polyester, for either the core or the sheath, preferably the sheath. can. Further, the number of yarns to be supplied is not necessarily limited to two, and may be three or more. However, if this number increases, there remains the problem of increased costs due to the addition of a supply roller system (overfeed roller system), denier selection, etc., so it is usually recommended to use at most three rollers. In this way, the obtained mixed fiber yarn usually has slack loops (Cournoud loops) of 30 loops/cm or more, but these loops are converted into fluff by the napping process. This yarn raising can be performed as a step before or after winding the mixed fiber yarn. As a raising tool, a rotating grindstone (for example, the one shown by the number 5 in FIG. 1 of JP-A-49-132346) is generally used, and in this case, the grain size and rotational speed of the grindstone have a large influence on the state of the raising. When considering a good nap state or process stability, the appropriate particle size is JIS #30~60 (medium) to #80~#600 (fine), and the rotation speed is 500~5000r.pm. (Yarn speed 40~
100m/min, grinding wheel diameter 5-15cm) is effective. Furthermore, in the case of a rotating grindstone, since the thread tends to be easily entrapped, it is generally preferable to maintain the thread tension in front of the grindstone at at least 0.1 g/de. The number of fluffs in such a raised yarn is an important factor in order to achieve "softness" in the final product, and in the present invention, the number of fluffs is at least 1.5 and preferably 2.5 per cm of raised yarn.
It is desirable that there be more than one book. In addition, the upper limit is preferably kept at 5 to 7 fibers/cm in order to maintain the practical strength of the mixed fiber itself. The raised yarn, which loses its rough and hard feel and exhibits swell and softness due to fluff, is used for weaving as warp and/or weft yarns, but there are no particular restrictions on weaving conditions, fabric standards, etc. Although it is the most preferable embodiment to use the raised yarn as the warp and weft, on the other hand, it can be used for either the warp or the weft, and a spun yarn, processed yarn, etc. can be arranged for the weft or the warp for a different look. can be obtained. Among these, fabrics made using brushed mixed fiber yarns in the warp exhibit swelling and softness similar to short fiber fabrics, and by further raising the fabric, it can be made into a fabric with a texture similar to flanno or saxony in woolen fabrics. is obtained. Moreover, in the case of cloth raising, since the speed of raising the cloth is restricted by the woven structure of the thread itself, it is possible to form fluff more easily than when raising cloth. Also, considering the relationship between the promotion of napping and the texture of the weave,
Twill textures such as 2/2, 3/3, and 4/4, or 5- to 8-ply satin are recommended over 1/1, with twill texture being particularly preferred. Since the purpose of this napping treatment on woven fabrics is to improve the surface touch, it is desirable to create at least 30 fluffs per cm of mixed fiber yarn, thereby making it possible to obtain extremely soft and well-seasoned woven fabrics. As the raising machine, a commonly used wire raising machine, thistle raising machine, etc. may be used as is. Thus, according to the present invention, the effect of the two-layer yarn structure of different denier filaments and the presence of fluff inside the fabric structure combine to make the yarn soft and easy to bend, and the surface is even more flexible. An improved fabric is provided. Moreover, since the filaments that make up the fabric are not crimped, they not only have the advantage that pilling is less likely to occur compared to crimped yarns, but since the filaments are mixed and intertwined with each other, they are difficult to fall out and have anti-pilling properties. will improve dramatically. Example 1 A raised fabric according to the present invention is produced under the following conditions. [] Production of blended loop yarn (1) Core component Polyester filament yarn 150de/48fil (number of twists: 8 times/M) (2) Sheath component: Cationic dye dyeable polyester filament yarn 75de/24fil (number of twists: 13 times/M)
M), polyester filament yarn-
100de/48fil (3) Turbulent flow nozzle Nozzle described in Japanese Patent Publication No. 35-1673 (Pneumatic pressure 3.5Kg/cm ² ) (4) Overfeed amount to turbulence nozzle Core component 10% Sheath component 36% (5) Take-up speed (winding) 50 m/min [] Yarn raising (1) Mixed loop yarn under tension of 0.12 g/de, diameter 5 cm, JIS #60 rotary grindstone (3500 r.pm)
Run in contact at 50 m/min to raise the fluff. [] Manufacture of woven fabrics The raised yarn obtained in section (1) is made into woven fabrics according to the specifications shown in the next section (warp and weave). (2) Warp density 28 threads/cm Weft density 19.5 threads/cm (3) Texture 2/2 twill [] Cloth raising (1) Raising machine Double needle cloth raising (2) Double-sided raising Front 15 times Back 5 times Above The properties of the mixed loop yarn in the process are shown in Table 1, and the fabric properties are shown in Table 2.

【table】

[Table] Generally, the texture of textiles can be expressed using three elements: fullness, waist/repulsion, and sliminess. The following will be explained in comparison with the measured values in the table. Bulge can be expressed in terms of thickness and bulkiness among physical property items, and the data in the table clearly shows the tendency for bulkiness due to napping. Waist/repulsion can be expressed by physical property items such as bending hardness, bending repulsion, and shear deformation, and the bending hardness of brushed fabrics is greater and is in the direction of the waist, and the bending repulsion is slightly lower, but , the shear deformation is large, and as a result, the repulsion is improved. Sliminess can be expressed by the coefficient of friction. Average friction coefficient (), variation of friction coefficient (μ
The measured values of both MD) and surface roughness (SMD) became smaller due to the brushing, and it can be seen that the desirable slimy feel was significantly improved. In this way, it can be said that yarn raising and cloth raising provide favorable improvements in all three elements of texture: fullness, waist/repulsion, and sliminess. Example 2 A raised fabric according to the present invention is produced under the following conditions. [] Production of blended loop yarn (1) Core component Polyester filament yarn 100de/24fil (number of twists: 8 times/M) (2) Sheath component: Cationic dye dyeable polyester filament yarn 75de/24fil (number of twists: 13 times/M)
M) and polyester filament thread 100de/
48fil aligned yarn (light interlace yarn) (3) Turbulent flow nozzle Nozzle described in Japanese Patent Publication No. 35-1673 (Pneumatic pressure 3.5Kg/cm ² ) (4) Overfeed amount to turbulence nozzle Core component 10 % Sheath component 20% (5) Take-up speed (winding) 50 m/min [] Yarn raising (1) Mixed loop yarn under tension of 0.12 g/de, diameter 5 cm, JIS #60 rotary grindstone (3500 r.pm)
Run in contact at 50 m/min to raise the fluff. [] Manufacture of woven fabrics The raised yarn obtained in section (1) is made into woven fabrics according to the specifications shown in the next section. (Weather and warp usage) (2) Warp density 29 threads/cm Weft density 20 threads/cm (3) Texture 2/2 twill [] Cloth raising (1) Raising machine Multiple needle cloth raising machine (2) Double-sided raising Table 5 times Back 3 times The properties of the blended loop yarn in the above process are shown in Table 1, and the fabric properties are shown in Table 2.

【table】

[Table] Comparative example with only hair omitted 3 In Example 1, the mixed fiber loop yarn was run in contact with a rotating grindstone at 25 m/min under a tension of 2.3 g/de during yarn raising, and the number of fluffs was A raised yarn of 75 strands/cm was obtained. If one attempts to make a fabric using this raised yarn, one would be able to obtain a fabric of almost the same level as the present invention as far as flexibility is concerned, but in reality, the strength of the raised yarn itself is extremely reduced to 1 g/d. However, it did not have practical physical properties that would withstand the twisting and weaving process.

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] 1. A non-crimped filament of synthetic fiber with a thickness of 2 to 5 de is located relatively in the core, and a filament of synthetic fiber thinner than the filament and having a thickness of 3 de or less is non-crimped. The mixed loop yarn, which is formed by interlacing and intertwining with the filaments of the core while protruding from the yarn surface to form loops and slacks, is subjected to a raising treatment to obtain a raised yarn having a fluff of at least 30 strands/cm, and A method for producing a fabric for woolen fabrics, which comprises weaving using a napping yarn and further subjecting the fabric to a napping treatment. 2. The method for producing a woolen fabric according to claim 2, wherein the fabric is composed of 2/2 or more of the twill structure.