JPS62139B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

The present invention relates to oily cosmetics. Tanning your skin to a brown or tan color is considered to be an expression of health and beauty, or as a form of beauty, and many people, especially young people, actively want to tan their skin. However, in order to get an even tan, she applies oil-based cosmetics all over her body and exposes her skin to the intense sunlight. In recent years, awareness of protecting skin from ultraviolet rays has increased,
Ultraviolet absorbers that absorb ultraviolet rays (wavelengths of 290 nm to 320 nm) that cause blisters, erythema, etc. are increasingly being added to these oily cosmetics. However, in order for healthy people to enjoy a moderate tan in the intense midsummer sun, as well as people who are sensitive to UV rays or those who have not exposed their skin to sunlight for a long time, cosmetics that absorb UV rays are necessary. A large amount of the agent must be added. However, most UV absorbers are skin irritating, and despite their UV absorbing effects, repeated application of products containing large amounts can cause skin irritation or discoloration. Therefore, although it is effective to prevent blistering and erythema caused by ultraviolet rays by incorporating a large amount of ultraviolet absorber, it is not preferable. Furthermore, although conventional oil-based cosmetics are oil-based, they are not sufficiently water-resistant, and they tend to run off when you get into the water while swimming or bathing, or when you have a lot of heat rash, and if you forget to reapply. This may cause unexpected blisters and erythema. The present inventors have conducted extensive research to resolve these drawbacks of conventional oil-based cosmetics, and as a result, they have found that oil-based cosmetics that contain a UV absorber and oil do not themselves have any UV absorption effect. It has been found that by blending a dextrin fatty acid ester, the ultraviolet absorption effect is significantly increased and the water resistance is further improved compared to when a UV absorber is simply blended into the oil. According to the present invention, the desired ultraviolet absorption effect can be achieved with a smaller amount of ultraviolet absorber, thereby increasing skin safety and making it possible to maintain the effect. That is, the present invention provides an oily cosmetic characterized by containing an ultraviolet absorber, a dextrin fatty acid ester, and an oil. Hereinafter, the configuration of the present invention will be explained in detail. The dextrin fatty acid ester used in the present invention is a natural starch with an average degree of polymerization of 10.
It is obtained by reacting fatty acid chloride or fatty acid anhydride with a starch decomposition product obtained by decomposition treatment to give ~50 glucose units. Typical examples include dextrin palmitate, dextrin stearate, dextrin palmitate stearate, dextrin oleate, etc., and one or more of these may be arbitrarily selected and used. The degree of ester substitution of the fatty acid in the dextrin fatty acid ester can be changed arbitrarily, but it is required to be 0.5 or more per glucose unit. If it is less than 0.5, it will not dissolve in some oils. Furthermore, if the average degree of polymerization of the natural starch decomposition product exceeds 50, the dissolution temperature in oil may exceed 100°C, and it cannot be used in actual production. The amount of dextrin fatty acid ester blended is 0.3wt%, although it varies depending on the type of oil, composition, and usability.
If it is less than 0.3 wt%, the effect of increasing UV protection and water resistance will be reduced, and if it exceeds 15 wt%, most oils will lose fluidity and become difficult to apply uniformly. As the ultraviolet absorber used in the present invention, all known ultraviolet absorbers can be effectively used. Representative ultraviolet absorbers are listed below. As benzoic acids, para-aminobenzoic acid (hereinafter abbreviated as PABA), glyceryl PABA, ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA, N-ethoxylate PABA ethyl ether, N-dimethyl PABA ethyl ether, N-dimethyl PABA butyl ether, N-dimethyl PABA amyl ether, octyl dimethyl PABA, anthranilic As acids, homomenthyl-N-acetylanthranilate As salicylic acids, amyl salicylate Menthyl salicylate Homo menthyl salicylate Octyl salicylate Phenyl salicylate Benzyl salicylate P-isopropanol phenyl salicylate As cinnamic acids Octyl cinnamate Ethyl -4-isopropylcinnamate Ethyl-2,4-diisopropylcinnamate Methyl-2,4-diisopropylcinnamate Propyl-P-methoxycinnamate Isopropyl-P-methoxycinnamate Isoamyl-P-methoxycinnamate Octyl methoxycinnamate ( 2-Ethylhexyl-P-methoxycinnamate) 2-Ethoxyethyl-P-methoxycinnamate Cyclohexyl-P-methoxycinnamate Ethyl-α-cyano-β-phenylcinnamate 2-Ethylhexyl-α-cyano-β-phenylcinnamate Enyl cinnamate Glyceryl mono-2-ethylhexanoyl-diparamethoxycinnamate As a benzophenone type 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone 2,2'-dihydroxy- 4,4'dimethoxybenzophenone 2,2',4,4'-tetrahydroxybenzophenone 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone 2- Hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone 4-phenylbenzophenone 2-ethylhexyl-4'-phenyl-benzophenone-2-carboxylate 2-hydroxy-4-n-octoxybenzophenone 4-hydroxy-3-carboxybenzo Phenone Others include: 3-(4'-methylbenzylidene)-d/l-camphor-3-benzylidene-d/l-camphor- urocanic acid urocanic acid ethyl ester 2-phenyl-5-methylbenzoxazole 2・2'-hydroxy-5-methylphenyl-benzotriazole 2-(2'-hydroxy-5-t-octyl-phenyl)-benzotriazole dibenzalazine dianisoylmethane 4-methoxy-4'-t-butyl-dibenzoylmethane 5 -(3,3-dimethyl-2-norbornylidene)-3-pentan-2-one and the like. The amount and combination of ultraviolet absorbers are determined depending on the desired ultraviolet absorption effect, but considering the ultraviolet absorption effect, 0.05 wt% or more is required. The upper limit varies depending on the skin safety, but for example, it is 15 wt% for homomenthyl salicylate, 8 wt% for octyldimethyl PABA, and 3 wt% for 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone. Almost all oils commonly used in cosmetics can be used in the present invention, but if dimethylpolysiloxane exceeds 50 wt% of the total oil, it is excluded because the dextrin fatty acid ester will not dissolve. Examples of oils used as main ingredients include mineral oils such as liquid paraffin, squalane, mink oil, castor oil, olive oil, macadamia nut oil, coconut oil, jojoba oil, avocado oil, rice bran oil, cottonseed oil, sesame oil, camellia oil, and peanut oil. animal and vegetable oils,
Other examples include ester oils such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, and oleyl oleate, fatty acids such as linoleic acid, oleic acid, and isostearic acid, and higher alcohols such as oleyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, hexyldecanol, and isostearyl alcohol. , these may be used alone or in combination of two or more. Further, oils that are solid or semi-solid at room temperature, such as vaseline, lanolin, cacao butter, coconut oil, palm oil, Japanese wax, etc., can also be blended as long as the system maintains an oily state. In addition to the above ingredients, the oily cosmetic of the present invention includes common raw materials used in cosmetics, such as preservatives such as methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, tocopherol, butylhydroxyanisole, dibutylhydroxytoluene, etc. Antioxidants such as β-carotene,
γ-oryzanol, ethinyl estradiol,
Drugs such as tocophenyl acetate, titanium oxide,
Zinc white, mica, bentonite, kaolin, talc, mica titanium, bismuth oxychloride, silicic anhydride powder, guanine, laminate resin pearl agent, mica titanium pearl agent, etc. pearl agent, iron oxide, gundioxide, chromium oxide, Inorganic pigments such as cobalt blue, sudan, quinizanine green
Dyes such as SS, Quinoline Yellow SS, surfactants such as span type, tween type, POE alkyl ether type, POE alkyl ester type, POE-POP type, glycerin fatty acid ester type, POE glycerin fatty acid ester type, dipropylene glycol, Humectants such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, glycerin, and polyethylene glycol can also be added depending on the purpose. Next, the effects of the present invention will be explained. Experimental Example 1 Each raw material was weighed according to the blending amounts in Table 1, dissolved by heating at 90°C, and then cooled to 25°C with stirring in ice water to prepare a sample. A portion of the prepared sample was applied onto a transparent quartz glass plate using an applicator for a coating thickness of 5 μm, and the absorbance at a wavelength of 308 nm was measured using a spectrophotometer. Also, from absorbance, SPF value < SUN
PROTECTION FACTOR＞=(Amount of UV energy required to cause minimal erythema on skin treated with UV absorber) ÷ (Amount of UV energy required to cause minimal erythema on skin without UV absorber) was estimated. . In addition, to evaluate the water resistance of the sample, the amount of ultraviolet absorber was quantified by extraction with ethanol immediately after applying the sample to the arm and after washing with water at a constant flow rate.
It was expressed as %>=(Amount of UV absorber on the skin after washing with water)÷(Amount of UV absorber on the skin before washing with water)×100. In addition, after taking a two-hour swim in the sea in midsummer, each sample was applied to the back, and 24 hours later, sunburn was evaluated based on the degree of erythema.

[Table] The absorbance increases as the concentration of dextrin palmitate stearate increases, and the degree of erythema also significantly improves. In addition, the residual rate of octyldimethyl PABA on the skin is 0.3wt% when the amount of dextrin palmitate stearate is 0.3wt%.
It can be seen that there is a rapid improvement of 70% at 1wt% and over 90% at 1wt% or more. Experimental example 2 Weigh each raw material according to the blending amount in Table 2, and heat it at 100°C.
The sample was dissolved by heating and then cooled to 25°C while stirring in ice water. A portion of the prepared sample was applied to a transparent quartz glass plate using an applicator for a coating thickness of 5 μm, and the absorbance at a wavelength of 306 nm was measured using a spectrophotometer. Regarding the survival rate, see Experimental Example-1.
I did the same thing.

[Table] This result shows that the absorbance is not affected by the addition of dextrin palmitate stearate if homomenthyl salicylate is not added, but in the case of the sample containing homomenthyl salicylate, the absorbance is not affected by the addition of dextrin palmitate stearate. The absorbance was higher in all the samples containing 20% to 30% higher absorbance. As described above, the present invention shows that when a dextrin fatty acid ester is blended into an oily cosmetic containing an ultraviolet absorber and an oil, the ultraviolet absorption effect is enhanced. A smaller amount of ultraviolet absorber is required when the UV absorber is added. As a result, skin irritation caused by the ultraviolet absorbent itself can be reduced without weakening the ultraviolet absorption effect. In addition, the addition of dextrin fatty acids significantly improves water resistance, making it possible to avoid blisters and erythema caused by unexpected sunburn. Examples are described below. Example 1 wt% (A) Ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA 0.5 PABA 0.5 (B) Dextrin stearate 6 Isopropyl myristate 30 Lanolin alcohol 5 Liquid paraffin 58 (C) Fragrance Appropriate amount After heating phase B to 100°C and dissolving it 70 The mixture was cooled to .degree. C., and after adding phase A and phase C, the mixture was stirred and cooled to 25.degree. C. in ice water. The absorbance of this product (measurement method was the same as in the experimental example) was 0.28, and when dextrin stearate was removed (replaced with liquid paraffin), it was 0.20. The residual rate of the ultraviolet absorber after washing with water was 98% and 40%, respectively. Example 2 wt% (A) Isopropyl-P-methoxycinnamate 3 (B) Dextrin oleate 0.5 Dextrin palmitate 4 Coconut oil 4 Octyldodecyl myristate 63.5 Liquid paraffin 25 (C) Fragrance Appropriate amount Phase B 90 The mixture was heated to .degree. C., cooled to 70.degree. C. after dissolution, and after addition of phase A and phase C, the mixture was stirred and cooled to 25.degree. C. in ice water. The absorbance of this product was 0.61, and when dextrin palmitate was removed (replaced with liquid paraffin), it was 0.50.
The residual rate of UV absorbers after washing with water is 95%, respectively.
It was 32%. Example 3 wt% (A) Octyl dimethyl PABA 7 (B) Dextrin palmitate stearate 10 Castor oil 72.5 Isocetyl alcohol 10 Mica titanium 0.4 (C) Vitamin E acetate 0.1 Dibutyl hydroxytoluene Appropriate amount Flavor Appropriate amount Phase B at 100°C After dissolution, the mixture was cooled to 70°C, and after addition of phase A and phase C, the mixture was stirred and cooled to 25°C in ice water. In addition, the absorbance of this material is 3.1,
When dextrin palmitate stearate was excluded (replaced with castor oil), it was 2.4. The residual rate of each UV absorber after washing with water is 98
%, 43%. Example 4 (A) Homomethyl salicylate 10wt% 2-(2'-hydroxy-5'-methylphele)-benzotriazole 3 (B) Dextrin stearate 3 Isopropyl myristate 10 Lanolin alcohol 3 Acetylated lanolin 2 Polyglycerol Decaolate 5 Liquid paraffin 59 Propylparaben Appropriate amount Titanium dioxide 5 (C) Fragrance Appropriate amount Phase B was heated to 100°C, dissolved, and cooled to 70°C. After adding Phases A and C, the mixture was stirred and cooled to 25°C in ice water. . In addition, the absorbance of this material at 310 nm is 2.4
and when dextrin stearate was removed (replaced with liquid paraffin), it was 2.0. The residual rate of UV absorbers after washing with water is
83% and 24%. Example 5 (A) Isopropyl P-methoxycinnamate
5wt% 4-Methoxy-4'-butyl-dibenzoylmethane 3 (B) Dextrin palmitate 4 Dextrin stearate 4 Jojoba oil 4 Macadamia nut oil 4 Olive oil 57 Coconut 4 Avocado oil 4 Almond oil 4 Cottonseed oil 4 Laminated resin pearls Agent 3 Butylparaben Appropriate amount (C) Fragrance Appropriate amount Phase B was heated to 100°C and cooled to 70°C after dissolution, and Phases A and C were stirred and cooled to 25°C in added ice water. The absorbance of this product at 308 nm was 2.0, and when the dextrin palmitate was removed (replaced with olive oil), it was 1.5. The residual rate of UV absorber after washing with water is 97% and 31%, respectively.
It was %. Example 6 (A) Octyldimethyl PABA 3wt% 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone 3 Glycerylmono-2-ethylhexanoyl-
Diparamethoxycinnamate 4 (B) Dextrin palmitate stearate 0.5 Corn oil 69.8 Isopropyl myristate 5 Liquid paraffin 5 Bergamot oil 4 Tween 80 4 Dipropylene glycol 1 γ-Oryzanol 0.2 Propyl paraben Appropriate amount Vaseline 1 (C) Fragrance Appropriate amount Phase B was heated to 100°C, stirred, and then cooled to 70°C. After addition of Phases A and C, the mixture was stirred and cooled to 25°C in ice water. The absorbance of this product was 3.4.
The residual rate of the ultraviolet absorber after washing with water was 73%.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. An oily cosmetic characterized by containing an ultraviolet absorber, a dextrin fatty acid ester, and an oil.