JP2584262B2 - Transparent base and cosmetic using the same - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to a transparent base composed of 12-hydroxystearic acid and an oil, and a cosmetic using the same. The use of the transparent base of the present invention is not limited to the above cosmetics,
It is widely used such as a stationery base such as crayon and a pharmaceutical base such as a medicinal stick.

The solid cosmetic in the present invention has a hardness of 10 or more (sample temperature: 37 ° C., pressure-sensitive axis: 5.6 mm) measured using a card tension meter (M-301AR manufactured by Iio Electric Co., Ltd.).
φ, load: 200 g), and the dosage form is a stick, dish, ointment, or the like.

[Prior Art] Conventionally, in the cosmetics field, oily solid cosmetics have been prepared by heating and dissolving a wax such as ceresin or carnauba wax in a cosmetic oil, filling and shaping the wax into a desired shape.

The oily solid cosmetic obtained by this method has an opaque appearance, and a cosmetic excellent in transparency has not yet been obtained.

In recent years, for lipsticks and lip balms, an oil-based solid base having excellent transparency has been demanded for the purpose of imparting a transparent finish when applied to the lips and enhancing the beauty of the appearance. Also, in lipsticks, eye shadows, and the like, development of a base having high transparency has been desired in order to make the color tone clear. As a highly transparent base, Tokiko Sho48
-38861, a method using a polyamide resin, and a method using dibenzylidene sorbitol, which is an oil-soluble gelling agent as found in JP-B-58-25644,
Further, a method using a fatty acid soap such as a transparent soap has been proposed.

However, all of these methods have the drawbacks that the stability over time is poor, that the oil floats and the solvent is volatilized, and that the spreadability is heavy in terms of usability.

[Problems to be Solved by the Invention] The present inventors have conducted intensive studies to improve such disadvantages of the prior art, and as a result, a composition comprising 12-hydroxystearic acid and an oil component has a refractive index of 1.45 to 1.54. As a result, the present invention succeeded in obtaining a transparent base having high transparency, excellent stability over time, and excellent usability, thereby completing the present invention.

[Means for Solving the Problems] That is, the present invention relates to a transparent base composed of 12-hydroxystearic acid and an oil and having a refractive index of 1.45 to 1.54, and a cosmetic using the same.

 Hereinafter, the configuration of the present invention will be described.

The 12-hydroxystearic acid used in the present invention is obtained by hydrogenating ricinoleic acid and is a saturated fatty acid having an asymmetric hydroxyl group at the 12-position carbon.

The amount of 12-hydroxystearic acid varies depending on the shape, hardness and the like of the target product, but is usually preferably about 0.1 to 50% by weight, more preferably 0.1 to 20% by weight in the transparent base. When the amount of 12-hydroxystearic acid increases, transparency is poor, which is not preferable.

The oil used in the present invention may be any oil as long as it is usually used for cosmetics and the like, for example, avocado oil, camellia oil,
Turtle oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, mink oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, egg yolk oil, sesame oil, persic oil, wheat germ oil, sasanqua oil, castor oil, linseed oil, safflower oil, cottonseed oil, eno oil, soybean oil, Liquid oils such as peanut oil, teaseed oil, kaya oil, rice bran oil, cinnamon oil, Japanese kiri oil, jojoba oil, germ oil, triglycerin, glycerin trioctanoate, glycerin triisopalmitate, dimethyl polysiloxane, methyl hydrogen Polysiloxane, methylphenylpolysiloxane,
Silicone oils such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane,
Cocoa butter, coconut oil, horse fat, hardened coconut oil, palm oil, beef tallow, sheep butter, hardened tallow, palm kernel oil, lard, beef bone fat, mokuro kernel oil, hardened oil, beef tallow, mokuro, hardened castor Solid oils such as oils, beeswax, candelilla wax, cotton wax, carnauba wax, bayberry wax, ibota wax, whale wax, montan wax, nuka wax, lanolin, kapok wax, lanolin acetate, liquid lanolin, sugar cane wax, lanolin fatty acid isopropyl, hexyl laurate, reduced lanolin, Jojo Barrow, Hard Lanolin, Shellac Row, PO
E Lanolin alcohol ether, POE lanolin alcohol acetate, POE cholesterol ether, lanolin fatty acid polyethylene glycol, wax such as POE hydrogenated lanolin alcohol ether, liquid paraffin, squalene, liquid hydrocarbon oil such as squalane, ozokerite,
Solid or semi-solid hydrocarbon oil such as pristane, paraffin, ceresin, vaseline, microcrystalline wax, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, isostearic acid, cetyl alcohol, hexadecyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, 2 Cetyl ethylhexanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate,
2-octyldodecyl myristate, neopentyl glycol di-2-ethylhexanoate, glycerol tri-2-ethylhexanoate, 2-octyldodecyl oleate, isopropyl myristate, glycerol triisostearate, glycerol tricoconut fatty acid, Glycerol tri-2-ethylhexanoate, oleic acid-
2-octyldodecyl, isopropyl myristate, glycerol triisostearate, glycerol tricoconut fatty acid, glyceryl di-paramethoxycinnamate-mono-2-ethylhexanoate, sorbitan monooleate, sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan monolaurate Sorbitan monopalmitate, sorbitan monostearate, sorbitan sesquiolate, sorbitan trioleate, penta-2-ethylhexanoic acid diglycerol sorbitan, tetra-2-ethylhexyl diglycerol sorbitan and other sorbitan fatty acid esters, mono-cottonseed oil fatty acid glycerin, Glycerin monoerucate, glycerin sesquioleate, glycerin monostearate, glycerin α, α'-oleate pyroglutamate, monos Glycerin polyglycerin fatty acids such as glyceryl malate malate, propylene glycol fatty acid esters such as propylene glycol monostearate, hydrogenated castor oil derivatives, glycerin alkyl ether, POE sorbitan monooleate, POE-sorbitan monostearate, POE- POE sorbitan fatty acid esters such as sorbitan monooleate, POE sorbitan tetraoleate, POE sorbit monolaurate, POE
POE sorbitol fatty acid esters such as sorbit monooleate, POE sorbit pentaoleate, POE sorbit monostearate, POE glycerin fatty acid esters such as POE glycerin monostearate, POE glycerin monoisostearate, and POE glycerin triisostearate , POE monooleate, POE distearate, POE
POE fatty acid esters such as monodioleate and ethylene glycol distearate, POE lauryl ether, POE
POE alkyl ethers such as oleyl ether, POE stearyl ether, POE behenyl ether, POE2-octyldodecyl ether, POE cholestanol ether, POE
POE alkyl phenyl ethers such as octyl phenyl ether, POE nonyl phenyl ether, POE dinonyl phenyl ether, pluronic types such as pluronic,
POE / POP cetyl ether, POE / POP2-decyltetradecyl ether, POE / POP monobutyl ether, POE / POP
POE / P such as hydrogenated lanolin, POE / POP glycerin ether
Tetra POEs such as OP alkyl ethers and tetronic
Tetra POP ethylenediamine condensates, POE castor oil, PO
POE hardened castor oil, such as E-hardened castor oil, POE-hardened castor oil monoisostearate, POE-hardened castor oil tooisostearate, POE-hardened castor oil monopyroglutamic acid monoisostearate diester, POE-hardened castor oil, maleic acid, etc. Derivatives, POE beeswax lanolin derivatives such as POE sorbitol beeswax, POE propylene glycol fatty esters, POE alkylamines, POE fatty acid amides, sucrose fatty acid esters, POE nonyl phenyl formaldehyde condensates, etc., higher fatty acids, higher alcohols, ester oils, Ether oil and the like.

In the present invention, one or two or more of these oils are used and the transparent base is prepared so that the refractive index of the base is 1.45 to 1.54.

In the measurement of the refractive index (n) in the present invention, first, a 2 g sample was placed on a glass plate and kneaded using a gold spatula until a uniform slurry was obtained. : 3T) at 20 ° C.

Further, the transparency of the transparent base according to the present invention refers to a material having an L value of 5 or more when the following measurement method is used.

Transparency measurement method A sample was prepared using a resin cell (Cuvettes, West Germany, 10 × 10 × 45
mm optical measurement cell) was measured at 25 ° C by the transmission method using Hitachi Color Analyzer 607, and (L,
a, b) values are determined, and the transparency is evaluated using the L value.
In addition, (L, a, b) = (96.230, -0.438,
0.428) is used.

The transparent base according to the present invention can be used for cosmetics, pharmaceuticals, stationery and the like as it is or by adding various additives in addition to the above essential components. Other additives include, for example, talc, kaolin, sericite, phlogopite, biotite, synthetic mica, muscovite, mica, lithia mica, vermiculite, magnesium carbonate, calcium carbonate, diatomaceous earth, magnesium silicate, silicate Calcium, aluminum silicate, barium silicate, barium sulfate, strontium silicate, metal tungstate, silica, hydroxyapatite, zeolite, boron nitride, inorganic powders such as ceramic powder, nylon powder, polyethylene powder, polystyrene powder, benzoguanamine powder , Polytetrafluoroethylene powder, distyrene benzene polymer powder, epoxy powder, acrylic powder, organic powders such as microcrystalline cellulose, inorganic white pigments such as titanium oxide and zinc oxide, iron oxide (bengala), Inorganic red pigments such as iron titanate, inorganic brown pigments such as γ iron oxide, inorganic yellow pigments such as yellow iron oxide and loess, inorganic black pigments such as black iron oxide and carbon black, mango violet, cobalt violet Inorganic purple pigments such as chromium oxide, chromium hydroxide, cobalt titanate, etc .; inorganic blue pigments such as ultramarine blue and dark blue; titanium oxide-coated mica; titanium oxide-coated bismuth oxychloride;
Bismuth oxychloride, talc coated with titanium oxide, fish scale foil,
Pearl pigments such as colored titanium oxide-coated mica, metal powder pigments such as aluminum powder and copper powder, red 20
No. 1, Red No. 202, Red No. 204, Red No. 205, Red No. 220,
Red 226, Red 228, Red 405, Orange 203, Orange 20
Organic pigments such as No. 4, Yellow 205, Yellow 401 and Blue 404, Red No. 3, Red No. 104, Red No. 106, Red No. 227, Red No. 230, Red No. 401, Red No. 505, Orange No. 205 , Yellow 4
No. 5, Yellow No. 5, Yellow No. 202, Yellow No. 203, Green No. 3 and Blue No. 1, organic pigments such as zirconium, barium or aluminum lake, chlorophyll, natural coloring matter such as .beta.-carotene, 2,6-dibutyl-P -Antioxidants such as cresol, 2,3-dibutyl-4-hydroxyanisole and tocopherol, para-aminobenzoic acid (hereinafter abbreviated as PABA), PABA
Monoglycerin ester, N, N-dipropoxy PABA ethyl ester, N, N-dientoxy PABA ethyl ester,
N, N-dimethyl PABA ethyl ester, N, N-dimethyl PABA
Benzoic acid UV absorbers such as butyl ester and N, N-dimethyl PAB tyl ester; anthranilic acid UV absorbers such as homomenthyl-N-acetylanthranilate; amyl salicylate; menthyl salicylate; homomenthyl salicylate; octyl salicylate; phenyl Salicylate, benzyl salicylate, salicylic acid ultraviolet absorbers such as p-isopropanol phenyl salicylate, octylcinnamate, ethyl-4-isopropylcinnamate, methyl-2,5-diisopropylcinnamate, methyl-2,4-diisopropylcinnamate, Methyl-2,4-diisopropylcinnamate, propyl-
p-methoxycinnamate, isopropyl-p-methoxycinnamate, isoamyl-p-methoxycinnamate, octyl-p-methoxycinnamate (2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate), 2-ethoxyethyl-p-methoxycinnamate Mate, cyclohexyl-
p-methoxycinnamate, ethyl-α-cyano-β-
Cinnamic acid ultraviolet absorbers such as phenylcinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl-α-cyano-β-phenylcinnamate, 2,4-dihydroxybenzophenone, 2,2′-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2,2 ′ -Dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone, 2,2 ',
4,4'-tetrahydroxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-
4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxyzebenzophenone-5-sulfonate, 4-phenylbenzophenone, 2-ethylhexyl-4'-phenyl-benzophenone-2-carboxylate, 2-hydroxy Benzophenone-based ultraviolet absorbers such as -4-n-octoxybenzophenone and 4-hydroxy-3-carboxybenzophenone; 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -d, l-camphor; 3-benzylidene-d, l-camphor Urocanic acid, urocanic acid ethyl ester, 2-phenyl-5-methylbenzoxazole, 2,2'-hydroxy-5-methylphenylbenzotriazole, 2- (2'-hydroxy-5'-t-
Octylphenyl) benzotriazole, 2- (2'-
Hydroxy-5'-methylphenylbenzotriazole, dibenzalazine, dianisoylmethane, 4-methoxy-4'-t-butyldibenzoylmethane, 5- (3,3
-Dimethyl-2-norbornylidene) -3-pentane-
Examples include ultraviolet absorbers such as 2-one, drugs such as vitamins, menthol, and camphor; other humectants; water; and fragrances.

To obtain the transparent base of the present invention and a cosmetic using the same, oil and 12-hydroxystearic acid are heated at 70 to 100 ° C.
After dissolving in, poured into the desired mold or container,
What is necessary is just to cool and solidify.

[Action] The reason why the transparent base according to the present invention has extremely high transparency is considered to be due to the crystal structure of 12-hydroxystearic acid in an oil component. That is, solid paraffin, ceresin, polyethylene wax, and the like, which are commonly used as solidifying agents, become microcrystals in the oil and solidify the oil by entanglement of the crystals. Further, the solidifying agent is usually a mixture having a distribution of the number of carbon atoms or an impurity.

On the other hand, in the case of 12-hydroxystearic acid, it itself has crystallinity, but in oil, the crystallinity is weakened, and conversely, the crystallinity is reduced by hydrogen bonds derived from the hydroxyl group and carboxylic acid group at position 12. It is thought that a weak higher-order structure is formed, and this difference is considered to lead to high transparency.

EXAMPLES Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto. The amounts are by weight unless otherwise specified.

In addition, the manufacturing method of each Example and the comparative example was performed by the following method unless otherwise specified.

Production method A solidifying agent (12-hydroxystearic acid, ceresin, solid paraffin, polyethylene wax, etc.) is added to an oil component (liquid paraffin, olive oil, etc.), heated to 80 to 90 ° C. and dissolved, and then an antioxidant is added. After adding a fragrance, a drug, an ultraviolet absorber, a colorant, and the like, the mixture is dispersed with a homomixer, degassed, poured into a predetermined mold or container, and cooled and solidified to obtain each sample.

 The usability and stability were evaluated at the following levels.

(1) Usability Sensory evaluation was performed by 20 specialized panels. The results were expressed as follows by the average value of the five-level evaluation (Table 3) of 20 persons.

(2) Stability After leaving the sample for 1 month at 0 ° C, 25 ° C, 45 ° C, 30 ° C humidified (98% RH), the surface condition (oil floating, fouling), odor change and discoloration were comprehensively evaluated. .

Good --- --- Slightly bad --- Poor --- --- × Example 1 and Comparative Example 1 An inventive example using 12-hydroxystearic acid and a comparative example using a conventional solidifying agent were prepared. , Refractive index and transparency were measured. The results are shown in Tables 1 and 2.

As is clear from the table, in the case of ceresin which is usually used, there is no transparency even when any oil is used, but the product of the present invention using 12-hydroxystearic acid has high transparency and n
It can be seen that there is an extremely high transparency range at 1.50 to 1.52.

Example 2 was extremely high in transparency and excellent in spreadability and finish when applied, as compared with Comparative Example 2 according to the prior art.

Comparative Examples 3 and 4 Comparative Example 2 (JP-B-48-38861, Example 1)
9) and Comparative Example-3 (see Ikeda Tetsusaku Cosmetic Science Nanzando (1957) 203-206 transparent soap). The production method was in accordance with each reference.

Comparative Examples 2 and 3 had transparency, but were inferior in usability, and in particular, had extremely poor stability over time.

Example 3 had high transparency, and was excellent in spreadability and finish when applied.

Example 4 was a very transparent, light pink lipstick with an unprecedented appearance and excellent natural finish.

Examples 6 and 7 were excellent in transparency, good in color development when applied, and excellent in natural finish. The refractive index and transparency of the transparent base excluding mica, mica titanium and red iron oxide were as follows.

[Effects of the Invention] The transparent base according to the present invention, when applied to solid or ointment cosmetics, has excellent appearance of transparency, and when applied to the skin, finishes more naturally than before. Good spreadability and excellent stability over time.

In addition, the transparent base according to the present invention can be applied to any composition having an oily solid or ointment form in addition to cosmetics, and has a beautiful appearance, lightness of spreadability, and stability. We can appeal for good sex.

Continuation of the front page (51) Int.Cl. ⁶ Identification number Reference number in the agency FI Technical display location A61K 47/12 A61K 47/12 N 47/44 47/44 N C09K 3/00 C09K 3/00 Z // C09D 13/00 PUF C09D 13/00 PUF

Claims (3)

(57) [Claims] 1. A transparent base comprising 12-hydroxystearic acid and an oil having a refractive index of 1.45 to 1.54, which does not contain a polyhydric alcohol ester of rosin. 2. A cosmetic composition comprising a transparent base comprising 12-hydroxystearic acid and an oil and having a refractive index of 1.45 to 1.54 and containing no polyhydric alcohol ester of rosin. 3. The cosmetic according to claim 2, wherein the cosmetic is a solid cosmetic.