JPS62120308A - Cosmetic - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:A cosmetic capable of raising water retention ability of keratin layer and showing excellent improving and preventing effect on chapped skin, containing a lipid derivative extracted and isolated from skin, brain, egg, etc., of animal and a surface active agent. CONSTITUTION:A cosmetic containing a lipid derivative shown by formula I (R1 is 15C saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group; R2 is 16-26C which may contain H or OH; X is H, monosaccharide or polysaccharide residue) and a surface active agent. The lipid derivative is extracted and isolated from skin, brain, egg, etc., of animal and, for example, sphingosine, cerebroside, ganglioside, etc., may be cited as the lipid derivative. The amount of the lipid derivative is 0.01-40wt% in the case of emulsified cosmetic and 0.1-50wt% in the case of oily cosmetic. A glyceryl ether shown by formula II (R3 is 8-24C alkyl) is preferable as the surface active agent and the amount of the surface active agent blended is preferably 0.1-5wt%.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION [Field of Industrial Application] The present invention relates to a novel cosmetic, and more particularly to a cosmetic that can improve the moisture retention ability of the stratum corneum and improve skin roughness.

[Conventional technology]

It has been known that moisture in the stratum corneum is important for moisturizing the skin and making it soft. The retention of moisture is said to be due to water-soluble components contained in the stratum corneum, such as free amino acids, organic acids, urea, or inorganic ions, and these substances may be incorporated into cosmetics alone or in combination. It is used for the purpose of improving or preventing rough skin.

In addition, many other moisturizing substances that have a high affinity for water (>0) have been developed and are being used for similar purposes.

[Problem that the invention seeks to solve]

However, when these moisturizing substances are applied to any type of skin, their action is to supply moisture to the stratum corneum of the skin, and their effect is temporary and fundamentally It did not improve the water retention ability of the stratum corneum and essentially prevent or cure skin irritation.

[Means for solving problems]

Under these circumstances, the inventors of the present invention conducted intensive research to solve the above problems, and found that the following general formula (I) % formula % (in the formula, 几 is a saturated or unsaturated carbon number 15) Hydrocarbon group, 几2 represents a saturated or unsaturated acyl group having 16 to 26 carbon atoms that may have a hydrogen atom or a hydroxyl group, and X represents a hydrogen atom or a monosaccharide or polysaccharide residue) The derivative has the effect of fundamentally improving the water retention ability of the stratum corneum.

Furthermore, we discovered that when a surfactant is used in combination with this lipid derivative, its effect increases synergistically.

The invention has been completed.

That is, the present invention provides a cosmetic composition containing a lipid derivative represented by general formula (I) and a surfactant.

The lipid derivative ri1 represented by the general formula (I) used in the present invention is extracted and isolated from, for example, animal skin, brain, eggs, etc. For example, sphingosine (cow IIQ), dihydrosphingosine, N,Q lumitoyl-DL-zohydrosphingosine, ceramite (cow brain - all the above four compounds are manufactured by Sedary Research Laboratory), ceramite (egg - avanti・?-manufactured by Ra Libits), cerebroside (cow brain-manufactured by Sedary Research Laboratory).

ganglioside GM, ganglioside GM, ganglioside GM, ganglioside GD] as ganglioside GDib, ganglioside GD3. Examples include ganglioside GQlb, ganglioside GT1b (all of the above eight compounds are sold by Funakoshi Pharmaceutical Co., Ltd.), and ganglioside (cow brain - manufactured by Sedary Research Laboratory).

These can be used alone or in combination of two or more.

There are no particular restrictions on the amount of lipid derivative (I) added to cosmetics, but in the case of emulsified cosmetics, it is usually 0.001 to 0.001% of the total composition.
50% by weight (hereinafter simply expressed as %), 4! 0.01 to 4
0% is preferred, and in the case of oil-based cosmetics based on liquid hydrocarbons such as squatone, 0.01 to 90%, particularly 0.1 to 50% is preferred.

As the surfactant, any of nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, and amphoteric surfactants can be used, but nonionic surfactants are particularly preferred.

What is an example of a nonionic surfactant? Rioxyethylene alkyl ether, ridge oxyethylene alkyl phenyl ether, ? Lioxyethylene fatty acid ester, sorbitan fatty acid ester, ? Examples include lyoxyethylene sorbitan fatty acid ester, fatty acid monoglyceride, and glyceryl ether. Among them, the first-order general formula (
I) Glyceryl ether represented by H (in the formula, 几 represents an alkyl group having 8 to 24 carbon atoms), especially IL, is represented by the following formula (
set (where p is an integer of 4 to 10, q is an integer of 5 to 11, and has a distribution with p + q = 11 to 17, with p = 7% and q = 8 as the apex) is preferred.

The blending amount of the surfactant is preferably 0.01 to 20%, particularly 0.1 to 5% of the total composition.

In addition to the above-mentioned essential ingredients, the cosmetic of the present invention contains oils, humectants, ultraviolet absorbers, alcohols, chelating agents hPt (conditioners, preservatives, thickeners, Any combination of dyes, fragrances, etc. can be used.

The cosmetics of the present invention can be used in various forms such as Wlo, O/W type emulsified cosmetics, Taleem, cosmetic emulsions, lotions, oily cosmetics, lipsticks, foundations, skin cleansers, hair tonics, hair styling products, hair tonics, It can be used as a skin cosmetic such as a hair growth agent.

[Effect]

Although the details of the mechanism of action of the lipid derivative represented by formula (I) in the cosmetic of the present invention have not been completely elucidated, it rebuilds the lipid membrane between the corneocytes and exerts the water retention function of the stratum corneum. considered to be a thing. Additionally, surfactants can synergistically enhance the action of such lipid derivatives.

〔Effect of the invention〕

The cosmetics of the present invention contain lipid derivatives (
Since it contains I) and a surfactant, it can exhibit excellent improvement and preventive effects against rough skin.

〔Example〕

Next, an example will be given and explained. In addition, the skin conductance and skin roughness score in Examples were tested by the following method.

(Test Method) Females between the ages of 20 and 50 who suffer from rough skin on their cheeks during winter were used as subjects, and different cosmetics were applied to the left and right cheeks for two weeks. The next day after the two-week application was completed, the following tests were conducted.

(I) Skin conductance: After washing your face with warm water at 37°C, rest for 20 minutes in a room with a water content of 20°C and a humidity of 40%, and then measure the moisture content of the stratum corneum using a skin conductance meter (manufactured by IBS). It was measured using As for the conductance value, the lower the value, the rougher the skin becomes, and when it is less than 5, the skin is severely rough. On the other hand, if this value is 20 or more, skin irritation is hardly observed.

(2) Skin roughness score Skin roughness was observed with the naked eye and judged according to the following criteria.

Example 1 Using the lipid derivative Ceramite (manufactured by Sedary Research Lazeratory) represented by the following formula (IVI), the following first
Cosmetics having the compositions shown in the table were manufactured and applied to the right or left cheeks of 10 women aged 20 to 50, and evaluated for skin conductance and rough skin. The results are shown in Table 1.

L4 (In the formula, 几 represents a saturated acyl group with 16 carbon atoms or 24 tfi) 1,000,1゛ζ口@1 Table Note) Scores are shown as a set of average value and standard deviation. .

same as below.

Example 2 A W/O emulsion cosmetic having the composition shown in Table 2 below was produced using a lipid derivative cerebroside represented by the following formula (v) obtained from cow brain (manufactured by Sedary Research Ladderatory). The skin smoothness was evaluated. The results are shown in Table 3.

(In the formula, 几 has 16 or more carbon atoms, which may have a hydroxyl group.
(represents a saturated or unsaturated acyl group of 26) Lfl'/I;
Cosmetics having the compositions shown in Table 4 below were produced using the following, and evaluated for skin conductance and rough skin. The results are shown in Table 4.

(In the formula, fL6 is a hydroxyl group? 16 carbon atoms may have
~26 saturated or unsaturated acyl groups. Father, Gal
is galactose, Ga1NAc is N-acetylgalatatosamine@Glc is glucose, and NeuAc is N-acetylneuraminic acid. ) Table 4 (wt%) From these results, the lipid derivative represented by formula (+) improves the moisture retention function of the stratum corneum and improves skin irritation when used in combination with a surfactant rather than when used alone. It has been proven that this can be improved synergistically.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. The following general formula (I) ▲ Numerical formulas, chemical formulas, tables, etc. are available ▼ (I) (In the formula, R_1 is a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group having 15 carbon atoms, R_2 is hydrogen a saturated or unsaturated acyl group having 16 to 26 carbon atoms that may have an atom or a hydroxyl group, and X represents a hydrogen atom or a monosaccharide or polysaccharide residue) and a surfactant. Cosmetics.