JPS6147845A - Silk "tsumugi" like fabric and its production - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] This bulletin contains application data before electronic filing, so abstract data is not recorded.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention (Industrial Application Field) The present invention relates to a silk pongee 1311 product and its r! Regarding the A construction method.

(Prior Art) In recent years, various processing methods have been tried for fabrics using synthetic fiber threads (especially polyester fibers), and silk-like fabrics with a high degree of perfection have been obtained. on the other hand,
In the market, demands for textiles are diversifying, and in addition to plain silky textiles, there is also a demand for textiles with a spun-like surface effect. For example, textiles with surface effects such as domestic silkworm pongee and wild silkworm pongee are one example.

However, fabrics using synthetic fibers are not as satisfactory as fabrics using yarns obtained from domestic silkworms or wild silkworms in terms of texture, surface effect, and the form of the slab part that produces the pongee effect. It has not been done.

(Objective of the Invention) An object of the present invention is to provide a silk pongee-like fabric that has the rustic and earthy feel of a silkworm pongee-like fabric that could not be obtained using conventional techniques.

(Structure of the Invention) That is, in the present invention, two or more filament yarns are simultaneously false-twisted, one of the filament yarns is arranged in a relatively straight line as a core, and the other filament yarn is used as a core of the core. A slab-like yarn in which mm spiral parts and triple or more spiral parts are alternately formed by twisting around the yarn, and the single spiral part has a constant twisting direction and a twist number of 20T.
/M to 2.050T/M, with a real twist in the range of
Further, the filament yarn twisted around the filament yarn of the core portion is made of ultrafine fibers with a single fiber fineness of 0.9 deniers or less, and the cross section of the ultrafine fiber is flat, and the outline of the cross section is This silk pongee-like fabric is characterized in that the surface of the fabric is made up of slab-like yarns that have mirror-like straight sections in some parts, and is smoothed by heat suppression processing.

(Action of the invention) The slab-like yarn itself in the present invention, Japanese Patent Publication No. 50-351
47, Japanese Patent Publication No. 47-49459, etc. However, the present invention specifies the number of winding twists and the properties of the wound yarn of such slub yarn, and heat suppresses the fabric obtained using these slub yarns to improve the surface of the fabric. The purpose was achieved by smoothing.

What is important for the slub-like yarn of the present invention is that the number of twists in one spiral portion must be in the range of 200 to 2,050 T/M. If the number of twists is less than 200 T/M, the triple spiral part will not be entwined easily and will easily shift, making weaving difficult. On the other hand, if it exceeds 2,050 T/M, there will be many yarn breakages during yarn processing, resulting in poor processability.

In this sense, the number of twists is preferably in the range of 450 to 1.700 T/M, and in this range, the processability of the yarn is stable.
A weavable slab portion is obtained, the stability is high even in post-processing, and the obtained fabric has good texture and appearance.

Furthermore, another essential requirement for slab-like yarn is that the constituent fibers of the wound yarn are ultrafine fibers with a flat cross section of 0.9 denier or less (single fiber fineness, preferably 0.05 to 0.5 denier). It consists of This is to give the fabric a silk-like ultra-fine, glossy appearance and soft texture that is rich in luxury. In particular, when the cross section is flat due to heat suppression processing, it is easy to produce gloss, giving the fabric an elegant luster and expressing a new silk pongee style.

In particular, the above-mentioned ultra-fine threads are of the hollow bonded type as shown in Figure 1, where one component is dissolved by a chemical and the other component is made ultra-fine as shown in Figure 2 (solvent type). ) is preferably used.

Among these, it is particularly preferable to use a normal polyester as the 81-ai components, and a modified polyester (for example, a blend of a metal salt of alkyl or arylsulfonic acid) whose solubility has been improved by alkali treatment as the b1-b components. Particularly preferred.

In addition, in the present invention, the specular straight portion is referred to as Sl in FIG.
*S Not indicated by 2, this refers to a straight line portion, that is, a portion where the incident light is reflected as is.

The above-mentioned slab-like yarn may be processed according to the processing method shown in the above-mentioned Japanese Patent Publication No. 2003-12101, but the twist coefficient and winding (=overfeed rate of J yarn) are important.

The false twist coefficient (α) during processing is preferably 0.6<α × 1.1.

However, the number of false twists (T/M) = αx32,500/, JD
cDe: Total denier of the two wood board yarns that make up the slub yarn. On the other hand, the overfeed rate (OF rate) of the wound yarn is 50%.
It is sufficient that the OF ratio is within the range of ≦OF rate≦120% (favorable ratio 65 to 100%). Single layer when OF is less than 50%.

The hardness of the triple spiral part is high and the intrinsic property is low, the effect of suppressing heat during fabric processing is small, and the finished fabric also has poor smoothness.

On the other hand, if it exceeds 120%, the triple spiral portion becomes poorly entangled and becomes easily misaligned. Furthermore, yarn breakage during yarn processing increases, resulting in poor processability.

The solvent-based yarn obtained in this way has a single fiber denier of 1 denier or more until false twisting, weaving preparation, weaving, and alkali dissolution treatment during dyeing, so the workability is comparable to that of normal work. The same work is required, and there is no need to be as careful as when handling ultra-aha fibers.

Furthermore, when treated with a solvent, the porosity of the fabric increases, making it soft and enhancing the effect of heating and pressing, giving the fabric an appearance rich in tightness and smoothness.

Moreover, since it has an annular cross section, there are mirror-like straight parts, which further gives the fabric a luxurious luster.

In the present invention, when manufacturing a woven fabric from slab-like yarn,
Usually, the threads are arranged in the warp and weft to make hair.

It is preferable to weave with matte or twill 11 weave. However, those skilled in the art can easily understand that the organization is not limited to 2/2↑. The key is to subject the fabric to a solvent treatment, particularly an alkali treatment, to make the winding yarn extremely fine, and then heat and press the fabric to smooth the surface of the fabric. In the case of alkaline treatment, a treatment temperature of 100 to 130 DEG C. and a treatment time of 30 to 100 minutes are appropriate.

On the other hand, the heating and pressing process is used to impart a silk-like luster to the fabric, to give the fabric a sense of control, and to smooth the surface of the fabric. The purpose of heating is to heat-fix this process. In this case, the pressure (linear pressure) is 30 to 100K.
g/crAS thirst is preferably 100 to 200°C (preferably 120 to 180°C).

(Effects of the Invention) According to the present invention, since a thread made of ultra-fine fibers having a mirror-like straight part in a part of the cross section is used as the winding thread of the slab-like thread, it can be softened and tightened by pressing after weaving. 1. The surface smoothness and the mirror-like straight portions work together to provide a fabric with high quality and silk-like luster.

Example A polyester filament yarn (3[) 200-72) was used as the yarn forming the core of the slab-like yarn, and the yarn forming the sheath had a hollow annular cross section (FIG. 1).
A slab-like yarn was made using easily soluble composite yarn (180-80;
The threads are combined at , and the same thread is used for both the warp thread and the R thread, and the warp standard is;
56 lines / 3.79 an, latitude standard; 50 over, / 34
It was woven to a standard of 9 yen. The texture is 2/2↑.

This fabric was processed under the conditions shown in Table 2. As a result, a silk pongee-style fabric with an elegant and luxurious luster and delicacy, as well as a soft and voluminous feel, was obtained.

Table 1 Table 2

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

FIG. 1 is a cross-sectional view of a melt-cut type composite yarn, and FIG. 2 is a cross-sectional view of an ultrafine fiber after being melt-cut. a1-an...ultra-fine components b1-bn...components to be dissolved and removed Fig. 1
Figure 1

Claims (3)

[Claims] (1) Two or more filament yarns are simultaneously false-twisted, one filament yarn is arranged in a relatively straight line as a core, and the other filament yarn is twisted around the filament yarn in the core. A slab-like yarn in which single spiral portions and triple or more spiral portions are alternately formed, the single spiral twisting direction is constant and the number of twists is 200 T/M to 2,
The filament yarn having a real twist in the range of 050 T/M and twisted around the filament yarn of the core is made of ultrafine fibers with a single fiber fineness of 0.9 denier or less, and furthermore, the cross section of the ultrafine fibers is has a flat shape and has a specular straight line part in a part of the outline of the cross section, and the surface of the fabric is made of slab-like yarns and is smoothed by heating and pressing. A silk pongee-like fabric that is characterized by (2) Two or more filament yarns are simultaneously false-twisted, one filament yarn is arranged in a relatively straight line as a core, and the other filament yarn is twisted around the filament yarn in the core. A slab-like yarn in which single spiral portions and triple or more spiral portions are alternately formed, and the single spiral portion is constant in the longitudinal direction and has a twist number of 200 T/M to 2.
, 050 T/M, and the filament yarn twisted around the core filament is a slub-like yarn which is a split type composite yarn having a hollow annular cross section, A method for producing a silk pongee-like fabric, which comprises heating and pressing the fabric after melting and splitting the fabric. (3) The method according to claim 2, wherein the fusible composite yarn is made of polyester fibers, and one of the filament yarns is an easily soluble polyester containing an alkyl sulfonic acid compound.