JPS61119787A - Production of post-dyed different color fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] This bulletin contains application data before electronic filing, so abstract data is not recorded.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION (Industrial Application Field) - The present invention relates to a method of piece-dying a fabric using spun yarn to produce a different-colored fabric.

(Prior Art) Conventionally, woven fabrics using ring-spun yarns of synthetic fibers or ring-spun yarns of a blend of synthetic fibers, natural fibers, regenerated fibers, etc. as single yarns for wefts have been widely manufactured. When this fabric is piece-dyed or dyed in different colors by piece dyeing, the appearance of the fabric varies in the color of the weft yarns, resulting in color stripes called so-called ginned cotton. This latitude line becomes a defect in the fabric, and as a result, the A reversal rate (yield) of the fabric becomes extremely low, posing a major problem in producing different-colored fabrics.

(Problems to be Solved by the Invention) ゛As a result of investigating the cause of the occurrence of such weft lines, the present inventors found that when a general ring spun yarn is used as a single yarn for the weft, the tube winding process and weft During the insertion process, etc., the spun yarn is bent or pressed by yarn guides, tension adjustment devices, etc., and is subjected to a squeezing action, which tends to cause fluff and nep, and also cause variations in these between yarns. As a result, the number of fuzz or nep present per unit area of the fabric (for example, for each wire tube) is different, and the variation becomes large. 100% polyester
When a fabric obtained using % spun yarn is piece-dyed for polyester by piece dyeing, or dyed in different colors such as cotton in a light color and polyester in a dark color, the areas with a lot of fuzz or naps will be dark and there will be less. It was found that the parts become lighter and latitudinal color stripes occur.

The present invention aims to suppress the occurrence of such fuzz or neps, eliminate their variation, and prevent the occurrence of latitude lines when fabrics are piece-dyed or dyed in different colors by piece-dying.

(Means for Solving the Problems) The present invention uses an open-end spun yarn made of synthetic fibers, or a blended open-end spun yarn of synthetic fibers and natural fibers, or synthetic fibers and recycled fibers as a single yarn for the weft, This is a method for producing piece-dyed different-colored fabrics, which is characterized in that the weft yarns are woven using spun yarns that have a different dyeability or a different blending rate from the warp yarns, and then the resulting fabrics are dyed in different colors. .

For the weft, a single open-end spun yarn made of 100% synthetic fibers, or a blended open-end spun yarn of synthetic fibers and natural fibers or synthetic fibers and recycled fibers is used.

Although any synthetic fiber can be used, polyester staple fibers and acrylic stable fibers are particularly preferably used. In order to perform open-end spinning smoothly, in the case of polyester staple fiber, the denier should be 1.2 to 2.0 denier and the cut length should be 32 to 38 mm, and in the case of acrylic staple fiber, the denier should be 1.5 to 2.0. Preferably, it has a denier of 2°5 and a cut length of 35 to 44 mm.

Natural fibers that are blended with synthetic fibers include cotton and wool.
Further, as the recycled fiber, rayon stable fiber is exemplified. When synthetic fibers and natural fibers or regenerated fibers are blended, it is desirable that the blending ratio of synthetic fibers be 50% or more.

Further, the weft yarn used in the present invention must be an open-end spun yarn, and the twist coefficient expressed by the number of twists (twists/inch)/core 1 tile 1 〒 is 3.4 to 5. It is preferably within the range of 0. If the twist coefficient is too low, it will be less effective in reducing the occurrence of fuzz and naps, and on the other hand, if the twist coefficient is too high, fuzz and naps will be reduced, but snarls will easily occur, making it difficult to handle. This results in poor performance and high production costs.

In particular, an open-end spun yarn spun using a separator heating type is preferable because even if the twist coefficient is relatively low, there is little occurrence of fluff or fluffy neps.

On the other hand, for the warp yarns, spun yarns that have a different dyeability or a different blending rate from the weft yarns are used in order to create a unique color effect through piece dyeing.

The spun yarn used for the warp is not limited to open-end spun yarn, but may also be ring spun yarn, and
It can be single thread or double thread.

The weaving is done by a trial decision, and the resulting fabric is piece-dyed.
One-piece dyeing or different dyeing.

(Example) Hereinafter, the present invention will be explained in more detail with reference to Examples.

Example 1 A spun yarn of count 20 (English cotton count) shown in Table 1 was used for the weft, and 100% cotton of count 20 (English cotton count) was used for the warp.
A plain weave having a warp density of 72 yarns/inch and a weft density of 58 yarns/inch was woven using a ring-spun yarn using a tube-changing automatic loom. The obtained fabric was piece-dyed under two-bath dyeing conditions to obtain a different-colored fabric.

For this uniquely colored fabric, the A reversal rate (yield) was determined, and the quality (surface nap, ginning, texture) was evaluated. The results are shown in Table 1.

(Hereinafter, this page margin) In the example of the present invention using open-end spun yarn for the weft, the surface nep and ginned cotton are small (and the yield is good with A reversal rate of 90% or more, but ring spun yarn is used for the weft). In the comparative example using , there were many surface neps and ginned cotton, and the A reversal rate was in the 60% range, resulting in a significantly poor yield.

Example 2 A polyester stable fiber of 1.5 denier and a cut length of 35 mm was spun by changing the spinning method and twist coefficient as shown in Table 2 to obtain a spun yarn of 20 count (English cotton count). Obtained. Each spun yarn obtained is used as a single yarn for the weft,
The other conditions were the same as in Example 1, weaving and piece dyeing were carried out to produce a different colored fabric.

For the spun yarn used for the weft, we measured the number of fuzz and fuzz-oriented nep, as well as the Snarl index, and for unique colored fabrics, we determined the A reversal rate (yield) and measured the quality (surface nep, ginning, texture). evaluated. The results are shown in Table 2.

(Hereinafter, the margin of this page) In Table 2, the number of fluffs is measured using a fluff measuring machine, and the Snarl index is the Talinger factometer index. Also, the number of nep for fluff is RT wine goo 3
The number of neps after circulation is expressed as a Worcester IPI value. Note that O1Δ and × in terms of quality have the same meanings as in Example 1.

As is clear from Table 2, the open-end spun yarn has fewer fluffs and naps near the fluff than the ring-spun yarn, and therefore has fewer surface nep and latitude lines, resulting in a higher A reversal rate. In the case of open-end spun yarn, increasing the twist coefficient reduces fluff and fluffy neps, but tends to make snarling more likely to occur, making it difficult to work with. The preferred range of twist coefficient is 3.4 to 5.0. In particular, open-end spun yarns spun using a separator combustion type are less prone to fuzz and nep, even with a relatively low twist coefficient, and are therefore less prone to snarling.
It is possible to produce a unique fabric with excellent both A-reel ratio and quality.

(Effects of the Invention) According to the method of the present invention, it is possible to produce a high-quality piece-dyed unique fabric without latitude lines, and the A-turn rate (yield) can be significantly improved.

Claims (4)

[Claims] (1) Open-end spun yarn made of synthetic fibers or a blend of synthetic fibers and natural fibers or synthetic fibers and recycled fibers A single open-end spun yarn is used as a weft yarn, and the dyeability is different from that of the weft yarn, or a blended yarn is used. A method for producing piece-dyed different-colored fabrics, which comprises weaving using spun yarns with different ratios as warp yarns, and then dyeing the obtained fabrics in different colors. (2) Piece-dyed according to claim 1, wherein the open-end spun yarn has a twist coefficient of 3.4 to 5.0, expressed as number of twists (twists/inch)/√ (English cotton count). A method for producing unique textiles. (3) The method for producing a piece-dyed different color fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the synthetic fiber blend ratio of the blended open-end spun yarn is 50% or more. (4) The method for producing a piece-dyed different color fabric according to claim 1, 2 or 3, wherein the open-end spun yarn is obtained by separator heating type open-end spinning.