JPS608216A - Neutralizing composition and method for waving and straightening hair - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] This bulletin contains application data before electronic filing, so abstract data is not recorded.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates to novel oxidizing agent-containing neutralizing compositions for use in connection with hair waving and stretching treatments, and to methods of conditioning hair subjected to this treatment. In particular, the present invention relates to a neutralizing composition comprising an amine-functional polymeric silicone additive and an oxidizing agent for imparting conditioning properties to hair treated with a reducing agent that reduces keratin bonds in the hair, and the composition. The present invention relates to a hair treatment method using.

There are almost always two ways to wave your hair and how to stretch it.
It consists of a continuous process. In the first step, the hair is softened or loosened with a reducing lotion so that it can be shaped into the desired shape. Second
During the process, a neutralizing agent is applied to the softened hair to harden and stabilize it in its newly formed form.

The main active ingredient of common neutralizers is an oxidizing agent, among which hydrogen peroxide is the most retroactive. The action of the oxidizing agent is twofold: (1) it removes any excess reducing agent used in the softening step of the treatment, and (11) it regenerates the disulfide paternal bonds in the hair. This transforms the new hair form into two and restores the strength and elasticity of the hair follicle.

However, in practice at present, not all of the disulfide bonds cleaved during the softening step of hair waving or stretching methods are regenerated, and increased fiber porosity and deterioration of hair catalytic properties are often caused by this method. It becomes a side effect. Many "in-process" compositions include conditioning agents such as quaternary alkylammonium compounds that provide smooth texture, ease of plowing, and fly-away control.

However, the conditioning effect provided by this additive, while convenient, is temporary and disappears after a single hair wash.

An example of a permanent 'cold wave' method using a mercaptan reducing agent is published in Schwartz's US Journal '1; No. 2.54.0.494. The oxidizing agent in the neutralizing or fixing solution used may be any typical dioxidizing compound that is harmless and nontoxic when applied to human hair; examples of the oxidizing agent include oxidizing acid salts, such as Nato IJ Promates and iodates of umum and potassium: hydrogen peroxide and its salts, such as ammonium pertinated sulfate, urea and pyrophosphate peroxides, carbonate peroxides and barborates of sodium and potassium, and metals. Salt peroxides, persulfates and organic peroxides and [converted peroxides] are shown. From Schwarz, fixative ``neutralizing'' fluids contain acidic oxidizing agents such as potassium bromate or iodite or It is also known that at least one acidifying agent may be included, such as an acid capable of bringing the pH of the solution to 2-4. Examples of acids in this patent include malonic acid, amber, maleic acid, vinegar 1.
Mono- or poly-carboxylic acids containing hydroxyl groups such as propionic acid, citric acid, and croton J. There are salts such as potassium or sodium (=f, /;

P I-I stabilization using salt for rice threshing, e.g. pH approx. 3
For this purpose, vinegar and acetic acid can be used in a ratio of 2:1.

The use of various silicon-containing polymers such as polysiloxanes for hair conditioning in permanent waving methods is also known in the art. For example, US Pat. No. 3,248,296 by Steinbach et al. describes continuous reduction treatment and oxidation treatment"↓■
! A variety of epoxyorganosiloxanes have been published that form an elastic membrane that prevents hair from adhering to each other and from water penetration. Epoxyorganosiloxane is applied after the neutralization step with the hydrogen peroxide decontaminating agent.

U.S. Pat. No. 3,687,606 to Chaumier et al. discloses an improvement on the above-mentioned Steinbach et al. patent in which a functional epoxyorganosiloxane having an epoxy group reacts with the hair material, but the organopolysiloxane moiety (d) provides an aqueous property. However, conventional compounds are said to have the drawback of giving hair an oily shine and are not water-soluble.Therefore, Chomyel et al. Epoxysilane is used as a treatment agent for stone treated with a reducing agent.

Charr, US Pat. No. 2,944,942 uses methylsilylmercaptoacetite in one step for permanent waving. This compound dissociates into a mercapto-reducing agent while producing a ranol polymer that makes the hair easier to retain and comb. This bamboo book does not mention post-treatment such as fixation with peroxide (J does not mention it either, so I am not sure whether this treatment is necessary or not.

Other hot and cold hair waving and stretching compositions may be used with various types of siloxanes, with or without reducing agents and/or oxidizing agents, used to provide a protective layer on the sides of the hair. Such compositions containing polymers are described, for example, in U.S. Pat. No. 2,643,375, 2.75.
No. 0.947, No. 2.782,796, No. 2,787,2
No. 74 and No. 2.840,087.

Grand's U.S. Pat. No. 3.14.3,476 discloses that ferrous iron, which acts as a catalyst for the degree increase in reaction J5 of the neutralizing agent,
A cold wave offshore application composition and method using sodium and potassium promate as neutralizing agents in the presence of ferric and copper ions is described.

There is still a strong need for medium-length IJ compositions for use in cold permanent waving or stretching hair treatments that are durable, ie, stable to repeated hair washing. Furthermore, for neutralizing compositions that can be applied to hair waving or stretching, the drying time is significantly reduced, the porosity of the hair fibers resulting from the severe destruction of hair bonds is significantly reduced, and the structure is smooth and easy to use on the desk. There is a need to provide benefits such as flexibility and fly-away control and reduce drying time.

An object of the present invention is to provide a neutralizing composition for hair waving and stretching that has hair styling durability, that is, stability against repeated hair washing.

Another object of the present invention is to neutralize the excess reducing agent and regenerate the disulfide cross-links in the hair formed from the hair softening process, dry the hair in a short time and improve the structure of the treated hair. The object of the present invention is to provide a composition that provides curlability and fly-away reduction.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a method for simultaneously neutralizing hair on the scalp which has been treated with a keratin reducing agent such as thioglycolic acid.

These objects of the present invention, which will become apparent from the detailed description of the preferred embodiments below, are achieved by a neutralizing hair composition in which an amine-functional silicone polymer conditioner is emulsified in an aqueous oxidizing agent solution. Amino-functional silicone polymers are silicone polymers of the type with amine functionality, in particular those of the formula (I) (lv3)
1 represents hydroxy or methyl, R2 is 1 carbon atom
represents an alkyl having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, R3 represents an alkyl having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, X represents a positive number of at least 4, ■ represents a positive number of at least 2, and (X and y)
On the r day, the silicone polymer has a molecular weight of about 5,000 to about 10.
It is selected from the types having repeating structural units shown in (numbers such as 0,000).

The present invention also provides an amine functional group having a repeating structural unit of formula (1) in keratinous fibers such as human hair that has undergone reduction treatment.
To provide a neutralizing hair conditioning method that reduces disulfide bonds in keratin fibers by applying an oxidizing agent aqueous solution emulsified with a monohyalonic silicone polymer conditioner.

The compositions and methods of the present invention are generally applicable to common reducing agents and reducing compositions as well as common active neutralizing agents. Reducing agents and nitrifying compositions, generally based on thioglycolic acid or thioglycolate salts, are known in the art and do not form part of this invention as such. In addition to the shaving agents thioglycolic acids, hair waving mercaptans (U.S. Pat. No. 2,540,
No. 494), alkaline softener compositions, and 4A acid salt-based hair treatment agents are also effectively neutralized by the neutralization adjusting composition of the present invention.

In the composition for neutralization adjustment of the present invention, limited hydrogen is a preferable neutralizing oxidizing agent. However, other neutralizing agents such as inorganic and organic peroxides and peroxide salts, barborates, promates, etc. can also be used. Neutralization, in the case of alkaline reducing agent compositions, can also be carried out with an acidic neutralizing agent such as HCl or other mineral acid at a suitable dilution concentration. The oxidizing agent 1't may be within the range used in -If neutralizing agent compositions, such as oxidizing agent type,
Depends on the amount and type of reducing agent used.

Generally, the amount of oxidizing agent is from about 0.5% to about 10%,
Preferably from about 1 to about 4 lf%.

p of the X11 composition for neutralization adjustment of the present invention in order to obtain optimal results.
I-I should be about 2 to 5 acidic, preferably about 2.5 to 4.5 acidic. Schwartz Patent No. 2,540
Acids commonly used in hair neutralizing and oxidizing compositions, such as those published in No. 494, can be used in the present invention. However, the use of a buffered acidic algebra is most preferred so that the generally high natural alkalinity of, for example, hair does not substantially increase the pH of the compositions of the present invention. In some cases, the use of buffering agents is preferred because it minimizes the degree of hair damage caused by harsh waving chemicals. Any acid and buffer system capable of maintaining the pH within the desired pH range of 2-5 can be used in the compositions of the present invention. Particularly good results have been obtained using phosphoric acid and a citric acid-citrate ion buffer system as acidifying agents. However, other acids and buffer systems can be used as long as the pH can be maintained between 2 and 5. Neutralizing agents, such as buffering agents, are prepared and used separately from the rest of the composition to prevent silicone emulsions in peroxide from being destroyed by the high acid capacity created by the buffering agent during prolonged storage. It is best to mix it with other ingredients just beforehand.

The gelling agent, such as hydrogen peroxide, is the main active ingredient in the composition and serves to remove any residual excess of the base agent or alkali used during the softening step of the waving or stretching process. In addition, keratin 2, which was cleaved in the previous reduction process,
It also acts to restore sulfide bonds.

Another mold component of the present invention is a silicone car coalescence modifier.

This is an amine-functional silicone 4I combination with formula (1)
() (In the formula, R represents a hydrogen atom or trimethylsilyl, R
1 represents hydroxyl or methyl, R2 is a straight or branched chain 2 having 1 to 6, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms;
11111 represents an alkyl group, R3 is a straight chain or branched m@21 having 1 to 4, preferably 2 to 3 carbon atoms;
111'i represents an alkyl group, X is a positive number of at least 4, and y is a positive number of at least 2).

Such suitable monoamino functional monosilicone polymers have the formula (
In 1), R is hydrogen and %RI is -CH3,
It is a cationic group polymer in which R2 is 1+GHz4 and R3 is +6112 squares, and is called Jinjin Amodimethicone. Amodimethicone is from Dow Corning Co., Ltd. Dow Corning 9
It is commercially available in the form of an aqueous emulsion under the names Silicone 929 Emulsion and Silicone 929 Cationic Emulsion.

The amount of silicone polymer generally ranges from about 0.1 to about 0.1% of the composition;
0 adhesion, preferably about 1 to 2 M- is good. about(
Adjustment of the amount below the monthly salary is insufficient, but on the other hand, if it exceeds about 10%, there is no weighted profit and it is difficult to produce a stable emulsion.

Any emulsifier that is compatible with other ingredients and can maintain a stable emulsion can be used in the composition for adjusting the middle layer of the present invention. Cationic emulsifiers may be used with cationic silicone polymers (T-H), and nonionic emulsifiers are preferably used with nonionic silicone polymers (R = nitrimethylsilyl). Generally amino-functional silicones The polymers are commercially available in the form of milk solutions and can be used as such in the compositions of the invention without the addition of additional emulsifiers, such as Dow Corning Milk, which is an emulsion of the cationic silicone polymer amodimethicone. The suspension 929 is a cationic emulsifier (Cow IIf'T I
limonium chloride) and a nonionic emulsifier (ethoxylated phenol). According to the manufacturer, Dow Corning Emulsion
2CH2+ is an emulsion containing about 35N of a nonionic silicone polymer having formula I, which is 2CH2+, about 3% of a nonionic emulsion ethoxylated alcohol (Triton X405, a Rohm and Haas product) and about 3% of ethoxylated phenol (Tergitol TMN-6, a Union Carbide product) in an amount of about 3M.

Any emulsifier of Jin 4B typically used in hair treatment compositions can be used in the composition of the present invention. Typical nonionic emulsifiers include, for example, polyethoxylated or polyglycerolated alcohols, straight chain alkylphenols or fatty acids having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, and generally 2 to 3 carbon atoms.
0 mol of ethylene oxide, ethylene oxide-propylene oxide copolymer, aliphatic alcohol, condensate of ethylene or propylene oxide and aliphatic alcohol, polyethoxylated aliphatic amide, polyethoxylated aliphatic amine, engineered ethanolamide , glycol esters of fatty acids, sorbitol esters of fatty acids, and sucrose esters of fatty acids.

Representative cationic emulsifiers include, for example, quaternary ammonium, morpholinium and pyridinium compounds.

The amount of emulsifier(s) is not particularly important as long as the silicone polymer remains in an emulsified state after being mixed with the oxidizing agent and other components of the composition. Generally, the amount of emulsifier may range from about 2% to about 20% by weight of the silicone polymer, preferably from about 8% to about 18% by weight.

If the silicone polymer is not available in an emulsified state, it is advantageous to emulsify it with one or more emulsifiers before mixing it with the acidic aqueous solution of the oxidizing agent. If necessary, mixing of the emulsifier and the silicone polymer and mixing of the emulsified silicone polymer and the aqueous acidic oxidizing agent solution can be easily accomplished by mixing the components in a conventional mixing apparatus at room temperature or slightly warmed. Of course, the mixing speed, shear rate, etc. must not be such as to destroy the emulsion.

Other common additives such as fragrances, thickeners, surfactants, other conditioning agents, bactericides, etc. do not interfere with the activity of the oxidizing agent or silicone polymer or impair the stability of the emulsion. Can be added to the composition with no filly.

Although the buffering agent can be added to the composition at any time, it is best to package the buffering agent separately from the other components of the composition and mix the two packages immediately before use.
It is a good idea to keep a child instruction manual.

Without wishing to be bound by any particular theory as to the mechanism by which silicone polymers exhibit their good properties, it is clear that silicone polymers improve the combing and drying properties of hair and provide a stable film that is mechanically strong and wear-resistant. is estimated to be formed on each hair. The drying properties are due to the low surface tension of the silicone polymer, which creates a thin film of water that evaporates more easily from the treated hair.

As mentioned above, the neutralization adjusting composition of the present invention has keratin 2
It can be used with virtually any hair treatment composition that provides a waving or stretching effect by reducing sulfide bonds.

The following is a representative emollient composition: Vaseline 24
．． 00 Coconut oil 16.00 Bora wax (nonionic emulsifying wax) 8.00
Tsurlan 25 (ethoxylated lanolin alcohol) 3
．． 00 Propylene Glycol 2,50 Sodium Hydroxide 1,75 Cetyl Alcohol 125 Fragrance 0.50 Add Water Pan-European 100.00 A typical thioglycollate waving composition is made by the following formulation: Ingredients Concentration ( Weight %) Ammonium thioglycollate 51 Monoethanolamine 2.5 Brij 35 (polyoxyethylene lauryl ether) 12 Fragrance 10 Opacifying agent 10 Addition of water Total amount 1000 The invention is illustrated by the following examples. This is not intended to limit the invention. Unless otherwise specified, all "parts" and "bases" are based on heavy oil.

Example I Three strands of brown Caucasian human hair, each 22 in size, were wrapped around Σ inches and saturated with ordinary thioglycol-1-i (0.6M ammonium thioglycolate, pH 9.2). 2
After 0 minutes, the waving lotion was washed off, and the hair on the wand was treated as follows: East #1 was saturated with 1.2% H2O2 for 5 minutes, adjusted to pH 4 with 1 liter of phosphorus.

Bundle #2 was saturated with 1.2% H2O2 containing 1.5% amodimethecone at pH 4 with phosphoric acid for 5 minutes.

Bundle #3 was adjusted to pH 3 with phosphoric acid to 0.25 M <1.2% H2 containing 1,5 thiamodimethicone diluted with citric acid.
Saturated with O2 for 5 minutes.

After 5 minutes, remove it from the wand, put peroxide solution (i7) into the hair bundle and disperse 3 more times. was recorded and the following result was obtained.

East # Combing work (2m) 1 795 2 137 3 132 The hair that had been removed was soaked in water again, taken out, and hung to dry.

The weights of the bundles immediately after being taken out of the water and after drying were recorded, and the moisture content of the bundles was calculated from the difference between dry and wet weights.

12.5 2 15 31.6 After centrifugation, the amount of water retained in the hair (porous fluid retention) was as follows: 1 42.5 2 413 3 37.5 After the final shampooing of the bundle twice I tested the worsted quality.

Combing work values were as follows: Bundle # Combing work (fcrn) 1 764 2 180 3 133 Example ■ Determining the rapidity of hair drying after completion of the waving (or stretching) process Therefore, I practiced the following frugality.

Four strands of 22 hairs each (virgin Demeo brown) were waved for 15 minutes at 35° C. using ordinary waving lotion. Wash your hair and apply 2 strands of sweat-proofing agent (2.0% nz)
Neutralize the other two bundles with a mixture of H2O2 (2.0%) and amodimethicone (2.0%) to medium-thin 1" sifter. After neutralizing for 10 minutes, they were washed with water, and the valleys were placed on a stress gauge to accurately measure the number of leaves. 7 fl f+, the change was allowed for 45 minutes. The values in Table I are hourly weights; II
It shows the T change (average of 2 east). The less water content the hair has, the faster it dries.

Table 1 Time (minutes and evenings 0 5 10 15 20 30 45H202(7)
+2.031.59. ],,391,231,090
．． 86 o, 55H202+ 1.511.100.9
50.840.740-570.35 Silicone Example llI 2 Thickeners (Igepol C0430 and Igepol C06
30) and an additional emulsifier cetyl alcohol to prepare a composition according to the invention.

Ingredients Weight% Hydrogen peroxide 20 Cetyl alcohol 0.2 Igeball C04304,0 Igeball C06304, (1 Rin 6 0.03 Dow Corning Emulsion 929 4.00 Water 85.77 A stable concentrated ad product has been changed.

Applicant: Bristol-Myers Company
Ryoji Kawase, patent attorney.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. Aqueous oxidizing agent solution and formula: (In the formula, R represents hydrogen or trimethylsilyl, at represents hydroxyl or methyl, R2 represents alkyl having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and R3 represents a carbon atom. 1 to 4
represents an alkyl with
an aqueous emulsion of a silicone polymer, where y is a number of at least 2 and the sum of X and y is a number from about 5,000 to about 100,000 silicone polymer molecules A composition for neutralizing and conditioning raw barley, which has a pH of about 2.0 to about 5.0. 2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the silico/polymer is present in an amount of about 0.1 to about 1 ONR%, based on the total composition. 3. The composition of claim 2, wherein the amount of silico-7 polymer is about 1 to 2% by weight. 4, R is hydrogen, R1 is hydroxyl, R2
The composition according to claim 1, wherein is +CH24 and R3 is +C)I2-3. 5. The composition according to claim 1, further comprising a buffering agent to maintain the pH of the composition at about 2.0 to 5.0. 6. The composition of claim 5, wherein the buffering agent is citric acid-citrate and the composition is made acidic with phosphoric acid to a pH of about 3.0. 7 Hair that has been waved or stretched with a reducing agent capable of reducing keratin disulfide bonds is treated with an aqueous oxidizing agent solution and the formula: (wherein R represents hydrogen or trimethylsilyl, R1 represents hydroxyl or methyl). , R2 represents alkyl having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and R3 represents 1 to 4 carbon atoms.
represents an alkyl with
y is a number of at least 2, and the sum of X and y is a number such that the number of silicone polymer molecules is from about 5,000 to about 100,000; A method of neutralizing and conditioning hair comprising applying a composition comprising an effective amount of a pH neutralizing and conditioning composition from about 2.0 to about 5.0. 8. Immediately before applying the neutralizing and conditioning composition to the treated hair, when the treated hair has alkalinity remaining, the neutralizing and conditioning composition is adjusted to within the above pH range of 2.0 to 5.0 Op. 8. The method according to claim 7, further comprising mixing into the composition a buffer capable of maintaining the pH of the composition.