JPS58220846A - Production of kasuri-like knitted fabric having drape feeling - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] This bulletin contains application data before electronic filing, so abstract data is not recorded.

Description

[Detailed Description of the Invention] ``The present invention is a kasuri fabric made by shrinking (relaxing) a woven or knitted fabric made of a polyester blended yarn containing polyester thick and thin yarn as one component, and further reducing the weight with alkali and dyeing it. The present invention is directed to a method for producing a polyester woven or knitted fabric exhibiting a silky effect and drape effect.

□In recent years, various attempts have been made to make synthetic fibers, especially polyester filament yarns, to approximate the texture of silk.
In particular, the development of fiber cross-section, fine denier, or non-contractile mixed fibers, the development of raw yarn technology, the development of 7-pot potency reduction treatment, and the development of dyeing processing technology. The tactile sensation was at a high level. However, on the other hand, the novelty of visual perception,
There is also a strong demand for surface changes, and there is also a demand for silky fabrics that have a pongee style or kasuri style, that is, a thin and thick effect, and a shaded effect of Q hue.

With this aim, a slub yarn with a core-sheath double-layer structure was developed using false twisting technology and has been attracting attention, but since this yarn itself has a wound structure system, it obtains the bulge 2-surface touch, drapability, and repulsion properties unique to real silk. It is extremely difficult to do so.

Therefore, the purpose of the present invention is to improve the surface texture in addition to silky texture.
It is said to provide woven and knitted fabrics that exhibit visual effects.

In order to achieve the above object, the present inventors conducted various studies and found that one component is a polyester thick and thin yarn that has a water production shrinkage rate within a range and exhibits latent self-extensibility in the thick part. It has been discovered that when a woven or knitted fabric made of polyester differentially shrinkable blended yarn is subjected to relaxation treatment and finishing setting, a silky texture rich in pongee-like/kasuri-like surface effects and a drape texture can be achieved, and the present invention has been made based on the present invention. It was reached.

Thus, according to the present invention, there is provided a polyester blend yarn having a total denier of at least 30 de, which includes the following components of filament thread count and (B), and (5) component: in the length direction. It shows a change in water production shrinkage rate, in which case (I) has a water production shrinkage rate of 6% or less, and a water production shrinkage rate of 10 to 20% and exhibits potential self-extensibility at dry heat of 160 ° C. or higher. Polyester thick and thin yarn composed of filaments having a portion of 0 and having an average water shrinkage rate of 10 inches or less as a whole yarn (B) Component: Polyester filament yarn having a water production shrinkage rate of 10 to 0. In addition, the weight ratio of component (B) is 20 to so:s.

A woven or knitted fabric made of kasuri-like polyester blend yarn mixed at a ratio of ~20% to 20%. A drape texture characterized by applying shrinkage treatment to induce a shrinkage difference between filaments and then dry heat setting. A method for producing a kasuri-like woven or knitted fabric having the following is provided.

Furthermore, regarding this, the component (4) used in the present invention, that is, the polyester thick and thin yarn, has a water production shrinkage of 6 inches or less in the thin part, and has a shrinkage rate of 4 or more than that of the component (B) yarn. By having such a difference, the woven or knitted fabric can be made to have a relaxed texture and silk-like bulkiness. In addition, the water production shrinkage rate of the thick part is distributed in the length direction of the filament, and if it includes a part with a shrinkage rate that varies in the range of KIG ~ 201%, it is considered that the part with larger shrinkage than the component (2). When the material is relaxed, component (B) may be located in the center or in the outer layer. As a result, unlike conventional shrinkage mixed fiber yarns in which the single component yarn with higher shrinkage constitutes the center, component (B) does not penetrate through the center and is entangled to the extent that The structure is as follows. Therefore, the smell of yarn with this structure is that there is no tight core thread,
This provides a woven or knitted fabric with excellent drapability.

It should be noted that if the average water shrinkage rate of the ingredient thick and thin yarn exceeds so%, it is not preferable because there is a fear that streaks may occur due to local shrinkage spots during the dyeing and finishing process.

By the way, when presetting or finishing setting after dyeing the above-mentioned relaxed woven fabric, it is necessary to apply tension heat setting so that the wrinkles of the woven fabric are smoothed out. is strained at a temperature of At that time, the filament portion (2), which has contracted more in the relaxation process, self-extends, so that the external force of the tension set is alleviated, and a large decrease in the crimp rate and electrical property of the fabric structure can be prevented. Furthermore, since the setting force due to self-stretching is alleviated, the increase in the contact pressure between the warp and weft of the woven fabric structure can be suppressed to a slight degree, and this greatly contributes to improving drapability.

Thus, the self-extensible filament partially shrinks to a large width in the first submerged thermal island after papermaking, and then shrinks to a width of 160
It exhibits self-extensibility when heat-set at a temperature of ~180°C, and in this point, it differs from conventional self-extendable yarns, that is, yarns that exhibit self-extensibility after the first water-saving heat treatment after weaving. This is why it is referred to as a latent self-extending filament in the present invention.

In this way, in the present invention, the relaxation place 31tC
Subsequently, when finishing and setting the fabric at a high temperature, among the two-component filaments, the filament component that has shrunk more due to the heat treatment during water saving develops self-stretching properties and prevents the setting stress from increasing. There is no significant decrease in the crimp rate or bulkiness of the tissue, there is no significant increase in the contact pressure between the warp and weft on the tissue, and the hysteresis of deformation is also reduced, resulting in a fabric with excellent drapability and bulkiness. .

The filament yarn of the above-described captive component according to the present invention can be produced, for example, as follows.

That is, Bolier' has a birefringence index (Δn) of 0.05 or less.

Adopting the Stell undrawn yarn at a temperature below its secondary transition point and a drawing ratio below the natural drawing ratio of the undrawn yarn,
In order to refine the change pitch of the heat shrinkage rate in the longitudinal direction of the fiber, the skeleton drawing is carried out in two stages, and at this time, the first stage drawing magnification (DRυ - 5 × △n + 1.2 ≦ DR, ≦-12X△n+2.3, and then the total stretching ratio (DRT) is -8×△n-
The film is re-stretched so that 1-1,6≦DRT≦-28XΔn+3.3 is satisfied, and the elongation is set to 50% or less.

Furthermore, the water saving shrinkage rate of the thick part is 10 to 20.

On the other hand, in order to keep the water-saving shrinkage rate of the thin part to 6 inches or less and the average boiling water shrinkage rate of the filament yarn to be 10% or less, 140 to 2
Heat treatment is performed at a temperature of 00° C. for a short time of 0.5 seconds or less. At this time, if the heat treatment time is too long, the water-saving shrinkage rate of the thick portion will be lower than 10%, so conditions may be set as appropriate from the combination K of temperature and time.

FIG. 1 is an example of a process diagram for carrying out the above-mentioned stretching and 1.1 stretching, in which the filament yarn discharged from the spinning head 1 is lubricated with oil and groke 2, and then the filament yarn is lubricated with oil and groke 2. In response to this, the particles are introduced into the injection nozzle 3 to be slightly entangled to improve workability.

Subsequently, the entangled yarn Y is taken up by a take-up roller 4 (which may be a preheating roller if necessary) K, stretched between it and the first stage stretching roller 6, and then stretched by the first stage stretching roller 6.
After being stretched between the stage stretching roller 6' and the second stage stretching roller 8, it is subjected to heat treatment on the second stage stretching roller 8,
It is wound up in the winder 11 as a drawn yarn lO. Note 5.
Separate rollers 7 and 9 are used together with the respective rollers.

FIG. 2 illustrates the shrinkage characteristics of a mixed thick and thin yarn obtained using the process shown in FIG. 1 and under the spinning and drawing conditions shown in Examples below. here,
The shrinkage rate is the filament that makes up the mixed filament yarn,
In other words, the water-saving shrinkage rate for each 5C1i length was measured along the length of the single fiber, and the water-treated fibers were then dry-heated at 18
Heat treatment was performed at 0°C for 1 minute, and the shrinkage rate was measured.

In the figure, the horizontal axis is the shrinkage rate when heat treated in 100°C boiling water for 30 minutes, where the original length (3 cm) is 10 and the length after heat treatment is l (4Jo) /16X1
00 (fi"t" indicates L, ll * word'l: ) The length after the water-saving treatment system is further heat-treated at 170°C for 1 minute is 6, and the shrinkage rate for J is (l5-Is).
#ox lo o (indicates ll.

Next, considering the shrinkage characteristics of each filament, the 45° line is shown in the figure.
To the right (downward) of the direction line, a certain filament component (2
) shows self-extension, while the filament component (I) on the left (upper side) contracts. This Figure 2 is a plot of the shrinkage ratio measured at 100 locations for every 3 lengths.

As you can see from the diagram, this thick and thin yarn has
Ingredients with water saving shrinkage rate of 6% or less and water saving shrinkage rate of 10-
In addition to the above, it is characteristic that there is a component (2) that exhibits self-extensibility when subjected to continuous heat treatment under conditions more severe than water production treatment.

The water-saving shrinkage rate of the thick part and thin part was determined by marking every 3 (!Ill) in the length direction of the filament yarn, knitting it, and unraveling the yarn after dyeing to determine the shrinkage rate.

The average shrinkage rate of the whole yarn was 3000 denier, 30
It was determined by boiling water treatment for 30 minutes under a load of 2M9/de.

On the other hand, for the high shrinkage component [component (B)] K to be used in combination with the above-mentioned prisoner component, for example, drawn polyester yarn or partially oriented yarn spun at a spinning speed of 3000@/ma or higher is subjected to tension heat treatment of 501% or more. Water shrinkage rate 10-179
6) Filament yarn is used.

In the present invention, polyester is particularly preferred as the filament material. Here, polyester mainly refers to polyethylene terephthalate, but a portion of the terephthalic acid component (usually 15 molt or less) is replaced with other dibasic acid components, such as isophthalic acid and 5-sulfoisophthalic acid.

The ethylene glycol component can be partially or completely replaced with fulquin glycol having 3 to 10 carbon atoms, especially butylene glycol, or if a part of it is replaced with polyoxyethylene glycol. May be replaced with polyoxyfulkylene glycol. In the case of polyethylene terephthalate, the degree of polymerization of such a polyester is usually 0.55 to 0.55 based on the intrinsic viscosity (v)ic determined from the value measured in an 0-chlorophenol solution at 35°C.
A value of 0.7 is preferred.

In the present invention, the captive component and the (B) component are mutually different types and
They can be suitably combined and subjected to the fiber blending process so as to produce different colors and different glosses. In this case, prisoners.

(It is necessary that the B3 composition has a weight ratio of 20 to so: so to 20, and outside this range it is flexible.

It is not possible to satisfy the requirements of swelling, repulsion, etc. at the same time.

This fiber blending process can be carried out by (B) a method in which each component is opened in advance using static electricity or fluid and then the two are combined, or the fibers are introduced into a fluid disturbance area in an aligned state.

Any known intermixing means, such as an interlacing method, can be used. However, in consideration of productivity and yarn handling (weavability) III, interlace treatment is most preferable. This technology has already been published in Japanese Patent Publication No. 36-12230! As described in Publication No. 37-1175 (6), the components (B) may be aligned and fed to a turbulent flow nozzle with a net overfeed amount of substantially zero to mix the fibers. In this case, the standard for mixing fibers is determined by the so-called degree of interlace, and pressure may be applied to obtain an interlace degree of usually about 5 pieces/m to 80 pieces/m.

(The total denier of the mixed fiber yarn obtained by this process must be at least 30 de. If the total denier is less than 30 DE, the threads constituting the fabric may be insufficient in thickness or the number of filaments required for the mixed fiber yarn may be insufficient.) become unable.

Next, the above-mentioned mixed fiber yarn is usually buttoned during the weaving (knitting) process without being subjected to shrinkage treatment, but in this case, depending on the intended fabric, it may be untwisted or twisted (additional twist). Just decide,
Furthermore, in terms of yarn use, it can be used in various combinations of warp and weft in untwisted and/or additionally twisted states.

During the subsequent scouring and finishing process, such fabrics are subjected to shrinkage treatment while immersed in hot water (these are sometimes applied in the form of scouring baths or dye liquors). You can get a 2-surface touch effect with a similar bulge and drape texture. In this case, it is also advantageous to perform alkali treatment (reducing weight) to develop silk's unique drapability and elasticity, but in general, presetting is performed after the scouring fabric has been sufficiently shrunk and the crimp rate has increased. If the fibers are then subjected to alkali treatment, large interfiber voids can be obtained, and the contact pressure between the warp and weft can be effectively reduced.

In the present invention, the shading effect % of thick and thin yarn can be obtained by normal dyeing processing, but in order to further enhance the color contrast, it is necessary to select a dye that has poor level dyeing and covering properties and a small diffusion coefficient. It is desirable to lower the dyeing temperature as much as possible. In particular, △n of the thick part is 0.0
3 or higher, the desired effect can be obtained by selecting a disperse dye from the above viewpoint and dyeing at a dyeing temperature of 120° C. or lower. Furthermore, to discuss this point, level dyeing properties and covering properties are generally closely related to the diffusion coefficient of the dye.
The better the level dyeing and covering properties, the higher the diffusion coefficient.

Naturally, there is a relationship between dyeing temperature and dye diffusion coefficient.
It is said that the covering properties of two types of dyes with diffusion coefficients of 10XIO and 2.5XIO at 130°C are similar even if the dyeing temperature is changed by 10°C (the former is 125.
3°C, the latter 135.3°C). From this point of view, in the present invention, [ is the dye diffusion coefficient at 130°C (DXI
O) The desired effect can be obtained by selecting a disperse dye with D of 10 or less and dyeing at a dyeing temperature of 120° C. or less. Among these dyes, those having a diffusion coefficient of about 7 to 10 are particularly preferably dyed at a low temperature range of 100 to 110°C.

Examples of disperse dyes having a diffusion coefficient (pXlG) D of 10 or less at 130°C include the following.

Sumikan, Full, Nis-37-le, F (D=4.
47) * (Sumikalon Blue S -3RF-
Sumitomo Chemical KK) Sumikalon, Yellow, Varnish-R (
D=2.47) (Sumikalon Y@lll0W S-R=Sumitomo Chemical KK) Sumikalon, Red, Varnish-Gee (D
=3.13) (Sumlkalon Red 5-GG =Sumitomo Chemical KK) Sumikalon, Brown, Varnish-2BL (p=
5.18) (Sumikalon Brown S-2B L
・・・-・Sumitomo Chemical KK) Sumikalon, Navy, Blue, Varnish-2GL (D=3.23) (5urnlkalon Navy Blue S-2
GL = Sumitomo Chemical KK) As described above, according to the present invention, it has a Kasuri-like surface change with a light and shade effect and drapability, and at the same time has a silky texture, a bulge 1 repellency, and a thick and thin Spunry 26 surface touch. It is possible to provide a satisfactory woven or knitted fabric.

EXAMPLE Polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.65 and containing 0.3 weight of Tie as a matting agent was melted and discharged at 295°C using the apparatus shown in Fig. 1, and a take-up roller was heated to 48°C. Winding 8 times through 4, tssom/-
The sheet is preheated while being taken up, and stretched 1.3 times between the take-up roller 4 and the first stage stretching roller 6 heated to 60°C, and then stretched to 1.3 times between the first stage stretching roller 6 and the second stage stretching roller 6 heated to 160°C. The drawn filament yarn (thick 7 denier/yarn) is drawn by 1.4 times between the stage drawing roller 8 and wound 6 times on the second stage drawing roller 8 and subjected to heat treatment. Got 10.

The yarn includes a water-saving shrinkage rate of 10 to 20 inches in the thick part, a water-saving shrinkage rate of 3 to 5% in the thin part, and an average water-saving shrinkage rate of e and a% of the filament yarn, as shown in FIG. It had the characteristic of being busy.

This yarn and polyester filament yarn 30do/1
2fil (water saving shrinkage rate 14.0%)
Using the interlacing nozzle shown in Figure 3 of Publication No. 175, a mixed fiber yarn with an interlacing degree of 60/m was obtained, and a strongly twisted mixed fiber yarn with a twist count of 2500 T/M twisted camot was used for the warp and warp. After weaving at a density of 69 fibers/cIL and a weft density of 38 fibers/cm, shrinkage treatment was performed in hot water at 97° C. for 30 minutes using a rotary washer. Then preset l
After z% alkaline reduction treatment, the following dye solution was prepared and dyed at 110'C, 6 in Uniace jet dyeing machine (Nihon Senzo Kikai KK).
When finished after dyeing for 0 minutes, it has a clear blue mochi-like surface effect and swells like real silk.

A silky, highly twisted fabric with excellent drapability and repellency was obtained.

dyeing liquid

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

Figure 1 is a route diagram showing an example of an apparatus suitable for manufacturing the thick and thin yarn used in the present invention, and Figure 2 is a graph showing an example of the shrinkage characteristics of the thick and thin yarn described above. l: Spinning head Y: Spun yarn 4: Take-up roller that also serves as preheating supply roller 6: Iris 1st stage drawing roller 8: 2nd stage drawing (redrawing) roller Patent applicant: Teijin Ltd.

Claims (1)

[Claims] (1) A polyester blended yarn having a total denier of at least 30 do, the blended yarn containing the following components of filament thread count and (B): Capacity component: change in water production shrinkage rate in the length direction In this case, the part (1) with a water production shrinkage rate of 6 or less, and the part (1) with a water production shrinkage rate of 10 to 20% and a dry heat 160%
Polyester thick and thin yarn (B) component: composed of filaments having a portion (2) exhibiting potential self-extensibility at temperatures above ℃ and having an average water production shrinkage of 1 Otlb or less as a whole yarn: water production shrinkage Polyester filament yarn with a ratio of 10 to 1796, and a weight ratio of 9g3) components of 20 to 80:80 to 2
A woven or knitted fabric made of kasuri-like polyester blend yarn blended at a ratio of 0.00% (=drape texture characterized by applying shrinkage treatment to induce a shrinkage difference between filaments and then dry heat setting) A method for producing a kasuri-like woven or knitted fabric having the following methods.