JPH10266042A - Napped fabric and its production - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain a napped woven fabric suitable for high-class clothing, etc., having a seal-like tone and a light chinchilla-like tone, fine and soft touch of napped layer and good appearance caused by deepness of color, by heating the substrate side of a specific fabric in a fixed temperature range and crimping napped fibers. SOLUTION: The substrate side of a fabric comprising napped fibers and a substrate in which the napped fibers are composed of at least low shrinkable polyester-based fibers 3 and highly shrinkable polyester-based fibers 2, has difference in boiling water shrinkage ratio between the highly shrinkable polyester based fibers 2 and the low shrinkable polyester-based fibers 3 of 5-15%, difference in dry heat shrinkage at 160 deg.C between them of 15-40% in which at least a part of the highly shrinkable polyester-based fibers 2 comprises a combined filament fiber that is a hollow fiber heated in a range of 150-250 deg.C at a temperature 150 deg.C higher than that at the napped side to crimp the napped fibers 2 and 3 and to provide napped fabric 1. Preferably, 30-100 wt.% of the highly shrinkable polyester-based fibers 2 is the hollow fibers and the number of crimps at the root parts of the napped fibers 2 and 3 is larger than that at the tip parts.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a lightweight cotton-like napkin blanket and a method for producing the same.

[0002] In detail, the raised hair structure and feel are very similar to seals and chinchillas, which are evaluated as the finest products among natural high-grade furs, and are particularly lighter and lighter than conventional similar furs. The present invention relates to a special napped fabric having a good napped layer appearance and a method for producing the same.

[0003]

2. Description of the Related Art Natural fur is thin, crimped and dense for the purpose of keeping warm, and has a uniform length of cotton wool and a thick, long pointed hair for protecting the body. Consists of In particular, the seal is fur of only cotton wool from which fur seals have been pulled out, the density of cotton wool is high, it is almost upright,
It has a soft touch with little hairiness.

[0006] Chinchillas are also of a wool type, delicate and silky soft, shiny and treated as the finest fur. Heretofore, it was not possible to obtain these products artificially.

[0005] Therefore, natural fur is still expensive and has a solid position as a status symbol or as a material for super-luxury fashion clothing. Therefore, development of artificial fur closer to natural fur was expected.

[0006] On the other hand, from the past, many napkin fabrics have been proposed that use the phrase "natural fur", including those which can only be described as mere blankets. In recent years, along with the rise of the animal welfare movement, there have been many proposals aimed at higher-grade natural fur tones.

For example, regarding the production of artificial fur, Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 49-85361 and Japanese Utility Model Publication No. 48-15816
However, at present, none of them are generally satisfactory.

Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication (Kokai) No. 57-61741 discloses a technique related to a special fur-prepared blanket and a method for producing the same. No consideration was given to the length distribution, and a clear two-layer structure similar to that of natural mink was not obtained, and the appearance was poor. It was easy to get tangled. Furthermore, the tip of the pile fiber cut by the cut-pile fabric is cut into pieces, and the surface touch is rough, and the appearance is white-blurred. Also, from the viewpoint of spinnability, the staple length of the cotton wool is limited in the short side, and it is difficult to obtain a desired nap length, and there are many points where improvement is still desired.

Japanese Patent Publication No. 63-64536 discloses a pile fabric in which the cotton-like napping has a napping fiber length distribution in which the napping length from the ground tissue has a uniform length. This technology is disclosed in
Although the method described in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 6-17441 is further improved and effective, it is a method of separating by cutting into a cut pile fabric as in the technique described in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. Sho 57-61741. The part becomes a `` bubble-cut state '' with a nail head, and in such a state, the tips are stuck together and the nap is easily entangled,
There has been a problem that satisfactory touches and appearance cannot be obtained.

Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication (Kokai) No. 62-117851 discloses a technique relating to a chinchilla-like artificial fur and a method for producing the same. In this technique, the root portion of the nap fiber is compared with the tip portion. No consideration was given to the large number of shrinkage, the structure was not the same as that of natural chinchilla, and the appearance was poor due to lack of color depth.

On the other hand, Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 58-54039 discloses thick and long comb-like fibers made of polyester fibers having different nap lengths, and thin and short cotton-like fibers having large heat shrinkability. A method for producing artificial fur is described. The present invention is different from that of the present invention which consists only of fine dentures of 0.5 to 15 deniers or less. This is a cotton fur fiber containing 3 to 25 mol% of neopentylene glycol as a third component, which is different from the present invention.

[0012]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION In view of the foregoing, it is an object of the present invention to provide a napped structure and a tactile sensation that are very similar to those of natural high-grade fur, such as seals and chinchillas. In particular, it is lighter than conventional similar ones, and the appearance due to the delicate soft touch of the nap layer and the depth of the color is particularly good and high-level ones, specifically, it is suitably used for luxury clothing and sheeting. Is to get something.

[0013]

In order to solve the above-mentioned problems of the present invention, the napped fabric of the present invention has the following constitution.

That is, the napping fabric has a nap comprising at least a low-shrinkage polyester fiber and a high-shrinkage polyester fiber mixed fiber, and the difference in boiling water shrinkage between the high-shrinkage polyester fiber and the low-shrinkage polyester fiber is 5%. ~
15%, the difference in dry heat shrinkage at 160 ° C. is 15-40%,
Further, at least a part of the high-shrinkage polyester fiber is a napped cloth characterized by being a hollow fiber.

[0015] Further, the method for producing a napped fabric of the present invention has the following configuration.

That is, at least a low-shrinkage polyester fiber and a high-shrinkage polyester fiber are contained, the difference in boiling water shrinkage between the high-shrinkage polyester fiber and the low-shrinkage polyester fiber is 5 to 15%, and the dry heat shrinkage at 160 ° C. The difference is 15 ~
40%, and at least a part of the high-shrinkage polyester fiber is in a temperature range of 150 to 250 ° C. on a base cloth side of a nap consisting of a mixed fiber which is a hollow fiber and a base cloth. A method for producing a napped fabric, characterized in that the napped fiber is heated at a temperature higher by at least 50 ° C. than the side to impart crimp to the napped fiber.

[0017]

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.

The present invention is a napping fabric having naps composed of a mixed yarn containing at least a low-shrinkage polyester fiber and a high-shrinkage polyester fiber.

The low-shrinkage polyester fiber used in the present invention means one having a shrinkage of 10% or less in boiling water shrinkage.
The high-shrinkage polyester fiber refers to a fiber having a shrinkage of 10% or more in boiling water shrinkage.

As the polyester fiber used in the present invention, polyethylene terephthalate, polybutylene terephthalate, or those comprising a copolymer containing these as a main component can be used. Preferably, it is made of polyethylene terephthalate. This polyethylene terephthalate or polybutylene terephthalate may contain diethylene glycol or the like in the main chain within a range produced by-product in the production process.

The third component of the copolyester used in the high-shrink polyester fiber (hereinafter, abbreviated as high-shrink yarn) is selected from the group consisting of dicarboxylic acids, diethylene glycol, glycols of polyethylene glycol, bisphenol A and bisphenol sulfone. It is also preferable to use one obtained by copolymerizing two or more selected third components with 5 to 18 mol% each.

Examples of the dicarboxylic acids include dicarboxylic acids such as oxalic acid, sebacic acid, phthalic acid and isophthalic acid, and examples of glycols include diethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol.

As the copolyester of the high shrinkable yarn used in the present invention, among these copolyesters, the alkali weight loss rate is 1.3 or more in terms of the alkali weight loss rate per unit surface area more than the alkali weight loss rate of the polyester. It is possible to preferably use a material which is increased by 1 or less. In particular, it is easy to produce a yarn having a different shrinkage ratio, in which a copolymerized polyester obtained by copolymerizing as a third component both bisphenol A (1.0 mol% or more) and isophthalic acid (3.0 mol% or more) is a highly shrinkable yarn. Is preferred because the raised structure is very similar to natural high-grade fur seals and chinchillas.

Regarding the hollow fiber, for example, Japanese Patent Publication No. Sho 42
No. 2928 discloses a method for producing a hollow fiber having a hollow ratio of 50% or less. The higher the hollow ratio, the lighter the weight,
The effect of heat retention is large and preferable, but if the fiber has too high a hollow ratio, the cross section of the fiber is likely to be crushed in the processing step. The hollow ratio is preferably set to 50% or less because the cross section tends to be easily collapsed. The preferred hollow ratio is 15 to 40% from the viewpoints of weight reduction, heat retaining effect, and easy crushing of the fiber cross section during wearing. The outer shape of the cross section of the hollow fiber may be any of a round, triangular, square, irregular cross section, etc., but a round cross section is preferable in consideration of yarn breakage during spinning, yarn breakage during spreading, generation of fluff, and the like. The cross-sectional shape of the hollow portion may be any of round, triangular, square, etc.,
When the cross section of the outer shape is round, a triangular cross section is favorable in terms of crush resistance, which is preferable. The hollow portion may be two or more porous hollow fibers.

In the present invention, hollow fibers are used as at least a part of the high shrinkage polyester fibers. If no hollow fiber is used for at least a part of the high-shrinkage polyester fiber, the apparent cross-sectional area can be increased, the shrinkage due to dry heat shrinkage can be increased more than the low-shrinkage fiber, and the nap length can be shortened. However, there is a problem that the bending rigidity is increased and the settability of the nap cannot be increased as compared with the non-hollow fiber having the same denier. Further, since the hollow fiber does not appear at the tip of the nap, the hardness of the cross section of the hollow fiber cannot be lost when touched by hand. From the viewpoints of weight reduction, heat retention, and resistance to settling, 30-
Preferably, 100% by weight are hollow fibers.

The method of obtaining a mixed fiber of different shrinkage yarns used in the present invention includes a method of mixing undrawn yarn while drawing, a method of mixing drawn yarn after drawing, and a method of opening each drawn yarn with static electricity or fluid. Any method such as a method of fibering and blending may be used.

Further, as the nap fiber, a high-shrink yarn made of a copolyester and a low-shrink yarn polyester fiber (hereinafter abbreviated as a low-shrink yarn) made of a non-copolyester are simultaneously spun at the time of spinning. It is also preferable to use a multifilament yarn.

In particular, since it is possible to adopt a spinning fiber blending method which is excellent in productivity in the method of producing a yarn with a different shrinkage difference, a polyester made of polyester is used as the low shrinkage yarn and the shrinkage ratio is reduced. As the largest fiber component (high shrinkage yarn),
As the third component, it is preferable to use one composed of a copolymerized polyester. Here, it is more preferable that the copolymerization amount of the third component of the copolyester be 5 mol to 18 mol% since stable yarn production is possible and the shrinkage characteristics of the shrinkage difference mixed fiber can be easily obtained. .

As a method for producing the differential shrinkage mixed fiber yarn used in the present invention, a method disclosed in Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 3-59130 is used. A low-shrinkage yarn made of polyester is simultaneously spun, wound as a mixed unstretched yarn of a high-shrinkage yarn and a low-shrinkage yarn, and then the spinning blending method of stretching the unstretched yarn is preferable because of excellent productivity. Is the way.
In this spinning process, it is also preferable to apply a fluid entanglement treatment in order to improve the processability in the knitting and weaving.

The shrinkage-differential mixed yarn used for the pile portion of the napped fabric of the present invention needs to be composed of at least two kinds of fibers having different heat shrinkage rates.
It is preferred that the seed fiber group be the main. It is preferable that the low shrinkage yarn used in the present invention is made of polyester, and the high shrinkage yarn is made of a copolymerized polyester obtained by copolymerizing a third component. The mixed shrinkage mixed yarn used in the present invention is obtained by drawing with a normal mixed fiber spinning as shown in, for example, Japanese Patent Publication No. 51-30620 and Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 49-72449. In this spinning process, it is preferable to apply a fluid entanglement treatment in order to improve the processability in the knitting and weaving. The preferable range of the degree of confounding is from 5 to 60 cores / m from the viewpoint of improving the processability.
It is.

The mixed fiber used in the present invention has a difference in boiling water shrinkage of high shrinkage yarn and low shrinkage yarn of 5 to 15%. If the difference in boiling water shrinkage between the high-shrinkage polyester fiber and the low-shrinkage polyester fiber is less than 5%, the heat-treated two or more types of fibers will be in a form similar to one another because the crimped state of the fibers is very similar. There is a problem that the nap fibers do not become independent one by one and the appearance is deteriorated. For example, if the shrinkage ratio is low, the volume is insufficient, and it is not sufficient as a ground-like napkin cloth with large ground cracks or large nap. In addition, if the shrinkage is high, the shrinkage is large, the volume is too large, and the nap fibers are entangled with each other, resulting in an unpleasant appearance, and the napping property of the nap is deteriorated. On the other hand, if the difference in the boiling water shrinkage exceeds 15%, there is a problem that the crimped state is too different and the nap length becomes a clear artificial form with two layers.

The mixed fiber used in the present invention has a difference in dry heat shrinkage at 160 ° C. between the high shrinkage yarn and the low shrinkage yarn of 15 to 40%. If the difference in the dry heat shrinkage at 160 ° C. between the high shrinkage yarn and the low shrinkage yarn is less than 15%, the heat-treated two or more types of fibers are very similar in their crimped state, resulting in a form in which the fibers overlap. There is a problem that the individual nap fibers do not become independent and deteriorate appearance. On the other hand, the difference in dry heat shrinkage at 160 ° C. was 4
If it exceeds 0%, there is a problem that the state of shrinkage is too different, resulting in an artificial texture.

Here, the difference in the boiling water shrinkage and the dry heat shrinkage at 160 ° C. mean the difference between the highest shrinkable yarn and the lowest shrinkable yarn. For example, when three or more filament yarns are used,
It is not a difference from yarns with an intermediate shrinkage.

In the napping fabric of the present invention, it is also preferable that the number of naps constituting the naps having different shrinkage ratios is 10% or more of the total napping number. If it is less than 10%, the number of the same fibers becomes too large, and the crimped forms are almost the same, and the fibers are overlapped with each other, so that it is difficult to open one by one, and the appearance tends to be poor.

In the napped fabric of the present invention, it is more preferable that the number of shrinkage at the root of the napped fiber is larger than the number of shrinkage at the tip. As a result, a voluminous feeling can be obtained at the root portion, the nap fibers can be made to stand, and at the same time, the ground crack can be prevented. At the tip portion, a delicate soft touch and color depth can be obtained. In order to obtain such a structure, the base cloth side may be heated at a temperature of 150 to 250 ° C. and a temperature higher than the heating temperature of the napped tip side by 50 ° C. or more as described later.

Using the shrinkage difference mixed fiber obtained as described above as pile yarn, weaving and weaving using a double weaving machine,
Cut the vertical pile yarn with a knife to obtain two pile knitted fabrics,
Thereafter, the pile back surface of the knitted fabric is appropriately subjected to a backing process, and the pile surface is subjected to a bristle treatment to appropriately remove play hairs and the like, whereby the napped fabric of the present invention can be obtained.

That is, the napped fabric of the present invention is a double pile knitted fabric whose base fabric is a knitted fabric, and can be obtained by cutting a vertical pile yarn into two pieces by cutting it with a knife or the like.

In the present invention, the pile knitted fabric means a pile of two or more kinds of shrinkage-differentiated mixed yarns composed of polyester multifilament yarns, and has a single fiber fineness of 0.5 to 15 deniers and a nap length. Is preferably 3 to 20 mm, since a cotton-like napkin fabric can be easily obtained.

Next, a method for producing a napped fabric of the present invention will be described.

The method for producing a napped fabric according to the present invention comprises the above-mentioned at least a low-shrinkage polyester fiber and a high-shrinkage polyester fiber, and the difference in boiling water shrinkage between the high-shrinkage polyester fiber and the low-shrinkage polyester fiber is as follows. 5-15
%, The difference in dry heat shrinkage of 160 ° C. is 15 to 40%, and at least a part of the high shrinkage polyester fiber is a base cloth side of a nap and a base cloth made of a mixed fiber which is a hollow fiber. Is heated in a temperature range of 150 to 250 ° C. and at a temperature higher by 50 ° C. or more than the napped side.

It is preferable to heat the base fabric side at a temperature in the range of 180 to 230 ° C. and at a temperature 70 ° C. or higher than the napping side.

If the heating temperature on the side of the base fabric (back side) is less than 150 ° C., it is difficult to develop sufficient shrinkage at the root, and if it exceeds 250 ° C., too much shrinkage occurs.
In addition, there is a problem that the fiber turns yellow.

If the difference between the heating temperature on the base fabric (back side) side and the temperature on the napped side is less than 50 ° C., it is difficult to make the shrinkage numbers of the root portion and the tip portion different.

Here, the raised temperature refers to the ambient temperature at the tip of the raised fiber. The heat treatment time is preferably at least 20 seconds, but if it exceeds 3 minutes, there is little change, so the optimal time may be selected. The shrinkage of the pile yarn caused by heat can be performed at any stage after fabric formation and before dyeing. As the treatment method, various dry heat treatment methods can be adopted. Utilizing the fact that the shrinkage rate of the nap yarn varies depending on the dry heat treatment temperature, the root of the nap fiber is heated at a higher temperature to give more shrinkage, and the heating temperature at the tip of the nap fiber is lower than that at the root. Also, shrinkage can be reduced.

The heat treatment is carried out by a method in which the base cloth is held by a hot cylinder roll, by applying hot air only from the base cloth, or by using radiant heat generated by combustion heat of gas or electric heater. A hit method can be adopted. By the heat treatment, yarn shrinkage occurs, and appropriate shrinkage is developed, and at the same time, pile fabric composed of nap fibers having different lengths of nap and different degrees of shrink due to shrinkage difference is obtained. Under the optimum heat treatment conditions, a raised fabric having a crimped structure very similar to the raised fibers of natural high-grade fur seals and chinchillas can be obtained.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to the drawings and the like.

FIG. 1 is a schematic model side view showing an example of the structure of a pile fabric having a cotton-like raised hair obtained according to the present invention. The napping 3 has a long nap length, the nap 2 having a high shrinkage thread has a short nap length, and the nap length from the ground tissue 4 has a substantially uniform length. Since the low-shrink yarn wool napping 3 has a low shrinkage, it has little shrinkage and is close to straight, so that the fiber length is long and appears on the napping surface, so that the moist feeling due to shrinking is reduced and the appearance is improved. Although there is no apparent difference in the length distribution between the low-shrink yarn-worn wool layer and the high-shrink yarn-wool layer as a whole, the standing wool fabric 1 shows a slightly shortened high-shrink yarn wool layer. I have.

The ground structure 4 may be impregnated with an adhesive polymer such as polyurethane or polyacryl, may have the backing layer 5 formed thereon, or may have both of them formed. In this case, an appropriate backing may be performed according to a desired purpose, such as fixing the pile naps and further raising a suspicion. In some cases, the pile fabric using the continuous filament yarn as the pile yarn may be able to omit the backing in some cases.

Each of the pile napped intermediate portions has a mixed spinning yarn structure in which a plurality of fibers constituting a low-shrinkage yarn and a plurality of fibers constituting a high-shrinkage yarn are formed in the middle cross-sectional structure. That is, it has a pile strain structure in which a plurality of nap fibers are gathered together in a mixed spun form to form one pile strain.

As described above, in the napped fabric of the present invention, since the pile is formed by using the specially processed yarn using continuous filament yarn, the fibers constituting the low shrinkage yarn are formed at the middle of each pile. It has a yarn bundle structure in which the wool naps of the fibers constituting the high shrinkage yarn are mixed very well and mixed well. By having such a pile structure, surface touch,
Good color depth is brought.

Hereinafter, a typical cross-sectional view of a hollow fiber which is a fiber constituting the high shrinkage yarn used in the present invention is shown. FIG. 2 shows an example in which the outer shape is round and the hollow portion shape is round. FIG. 3 shows an example in which the outer shape is round and the hollow portion shape is triangular. FIG. 4 shows an example in which the outer shape is triangular and the hollow portion shape is triangular. FIG. 5 shows an example in which the outer shape is square and the hollow portion shape is square. FIG. 6 shows an example in which the outer shape is round and the hollow portion is round and porous.

The mixed yarn used for the pile portion of the napped fabric of the present invention needs to be composed of at least two kinds of fibers having different heat shrinkage rates. Is preferred. It is preferable that the low shrinkage yarn used in the present invention is made of polyester, and the high shrinkage yarn is made of a copolymerized polyester obtained by copolymerizing a third component. Using the mixed fiber thus obtained as a pile yarn, weaving and weaving is performed with a double knitting machine, and vertical pile yarn is cut with a knife to obtain two pile knitted fabrics. Almost all nap fibers have a distribution of pile cut lengths due to the use of filament yarn.

The method of expressing shrinkage by heat treatment of the nap fibers may be either before or after the backing step, but is preferably before the backing in view of workability and the like. From the viewpoint of simplicity and cost, the heat treatment method is preferably a dry heat treatment, and the shrinkage ratio varies depending on the treatment temperature. It can be used in the drying step such as backing without passing through the step of expressing the shrinkage. As a method of increasing the number of shrinkage at the root portion of the nap fiber from the number of shrinkage at the tip portion, a more preferable method is to use a rotating heat cylinder roll, and contact the base fabric side (back side) with the roll,
This is a method of performing heat treatment for a certain time.

Next, in order to prevent the nap fibers from coming off due to the ground structure and the knitting density, it is preferable to use an adhesive polymer such as acrylic and backing from the back surface.

Next, it is also preferable that the pile surface is subjected to hair treatment by a razing machine to open the nap fibers. If there is a difference in the length of the nap fibers due to the pile cut spots, it is preferable to cut to a certain length using a shearing machine.

Next, using a high-pressure liquid jet dyeing machine, 120 to 13
It is preferable to perform a dyeing treatment at 0 ° C. for 20 to 45 minutes, and then apply a finishing agent for the purpose of improving surface touch and improving hair-dressing properties. Next, the pile surface is treated again with a razing machine using a razing machine, the nap fibers are further opened, and the nap fibers are erected vertically so that there is no directionality, and then the nap state is set with a dryer to improve the settability. Is preferred.

The present invention can be effectively applied to so-called raised fabrics such as velours, velvets, moquettes, blankets and the like.

[0058]

DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS The present invention will be described below with reference to embodiments.

Here, the method for measuring the yarn characteristics of the differential shrinkage mixed yarn according to the present invention and the hollow ratio of the yarn will be described.

The number of N was set to 10.

[Boiling water shrinkage] 100 mg / d for each yarn type
After measuring the sample length (L ₀ ) under a load of, a boiling water treatment is carried out for 20 minutes with no load. After the treatment, the sample length (L ₁ ) was measured under a load of 100 mg / d. The boiling water shrinkage was determined by the following equation.

Boiling water shrinkage = (L ₀ −L ₁ ) / L ₀ × 100 (%) [160 ° C. dry heat shrinkage] Sample length (L ₀ ) was measured under a load of 100 mg / d for each yarn type. 1 after no load
It was left still in an oven at 60 ° C. for 30 minutes to perform a dry heat treatment. After the treatment, the sample length (L ₂ ) was measured under a load of 100 mg / d. The 160 ° C. dry heat shrinkage was determined by the following equation.

160 ° C. dry heat shrinkage = (L ₀ −L ₂ ) / L ₂
× 100 (%) [Number of shrinkage] A load of 2 mg / d was applied to each yarn type, and the length (Lmm) and the number of peaks and valleys (Cn) of the shrinkage were counted. The Ken reduction number was obtained by the following equation.

The number of contractions (peak / 25 mm) = (Cn × 2)
5) / (2 × L) [Example 1] After performing an esterification reaction using terephthalic acid / ethylene glycol slurry, a normal polymerization reaction was performed, and a polyethylene terephthalate chip (chip)
I got. On the other hand, using terephthalic acid / ethylene glycol and isophthalic acid / ethylene glycol slurry,
After performing the esterification reaction, bisphenol A and an ethylene glycol solution (13.5 g / 100 ml) of titanium oxide having an average particle diameter of 0.5 μm are added, and a normal polymerization reaction is performed, and 8 mol% of isophthalic acid and 5 mol of bisphenol A are performed. % Copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate chip (Chip II) was obtained. The tip I obtained in this manner is a non-hollow round cross section, and the tip II is a spinning machine equipped with a spinneret having a discharge hole diameter and a shape different from each other to have a round outer shape and a hollow triangular shape. The mixed fiber undrawn yarn was spun at 1300 m / min, and the mixed fiber undrawn yarn was drawn at a drawing speed of 800 m / min by a hot roll (temperature 90 ° C.).
-Stretched by a hot plate (temperature: 100 ° C to 180 ° C).

At the time of stretching, air entanglement is performed,
Co / m, and the draw ratio is 3%.
It was adjusted to be in the range of 0 to 40%. The resulting shrinkage difference mixed yarn was 75 denier 36 filaments, both hollow high shrinkage yarns and low shrinkage yarns were 37.5 denier 18 filaments, and the hollow fiber hollow ratio was 35%. After dividing the shrinkage difference mixed fiber into a high shrinkage yarn and a low shrinkage yarn, the shrinkage characteristics were measured. As a result, the boiling water shrinkage of the high shrinkage yarn was 18%, and 160 ° C.
Dry heat shrinkage 45%, boiling water shrinkage of low shrinkage yarn 7%, 160
C. The dry heat shrinkage was 17%.

The above-described 75-denier shrinkage differential blended yarn was twisted into two pieces at a twist factor of 80 ko / m to about 150 denier, used as a vertical pile yarn, and a polyester staple fiber 1.2d × 51 mm on the ground and horizontal yarns. Using a spun yarn (60S / 2), two vertical pile fabrics were woven by a double pile loom while cutting the vertical pile yarn with a knife. The weavability at that time was good. The ground weave density was 93 × 48 / 2.54 cm (vertical × horizontal), and the pile density was 93 / 2.54 cm (vertical). The cut height (length) was set to 11 mm.
The obtained greige was subjected to dry heat treatment at 160 ° C. for 4 minutes using a dryer to exhibit shrinkage. The pile length of the low-shrink yarn was 10 mm and the pile length of the high-shrink yarn was 8 mm. Next, the film was backed with a 30% aqueous solution of an acrylic resin and dried. The dry weight of the acrylic resin was 45 g / m ² . After that, the pile fibers were removed from the root with a lacing machine and defibrated.

Next, after dyeing at 130 ° C. for 30 minutes with a jet dyeing machine, a silicone-based finishing agent was applied and dried, and the hair was tied up with a razing machine in a state where the napped hairs were set up vertically. Heat setting was carried out for 2 minutes in a drier. The obtained thing has a form as shown in FIG.
The appearance was slightly mottled, and was unsatisfactory in settling, but at a passable level in stroking. It was a high-quality fur-like pile fabric that resembled a seal overall.
The basis weight of the obtained fabric was 540 g / m ² .

Table 1 shows the main conditions and results.

[0069]

[Table 1] [Example 2] A hot cylinder roll was used as a method of developing shrinkage. The surface temperature of the hot cylinder roll was set to 200 ° C., and the base fabric side of the greige was held for ／ of a turn so as to be pressed against the roll, and the dry heat treatment was performed at the same speed as the roll rotation. The contact time with the roll was 2 minutes, and the temperature of the tip of the nap fibers at that time was 95 ° C. The pile length of the low-shrink yarn having a low shrinkage was 10 mm, and the pile length of the high-shrink yarn was 8 mm. The pile bundle was cut off from the base from the present fabric after the completion of the sagging expression process, and the shrinkage number was measured. As a result, the average of the shrinkage number from the root portion to half the height of the high shrinkage yarn was 13 peaks / 2.
At 5 mm, the average number of shrinkage from the half height to the tip of the nap fiber was 7 peaks / 25 mm. The average of the number of shrinkage from the root to the half height of the low shrinkage yarn is 6 peaks / 25 m.
m, the average of the number of shrinkage from the half height to the tip of the nap fiber was 3 peaks / 25 mm.

Processing was carried out under the same conditions as in Example 1 except for the step of developing shrinkage. The obtained product had better appearance due to gloss and color depth than that of Example 1. At this time, the basis weight of the fabric was 540 g / m ² .

Table 1 shows the main conditions and results.

Example 3 Using the chip for high shrinkage yarn (chip II) used in Example 1, a hollow fiber of 75 denier, 24 filaments and a hollow triangular hollow fiber was produced. The conditions at that time were the same as in Example 1. The obtained yarn had a hollow ratio of 38%, a boiling water shrinkage of 16%, and a 160 ° C dry heat shrinkage of 41%. Next, using a spinneret having a round cross section in which the high shrinkage yarn of Example 1 was not hollow, a 75-denier 36 filament yarn of differential shrinkage mixed yarn was produced under the same conditions as in Example 1. Example 2 wherein the high-shrinkage 75-denier 24 filament yarn and the 75-denier 36-filament yarn of differential shrinkage mixed yarn were twisted at a twist factor of 80 ko / m to give about 150 denier and used as a vertical pile yarn. The same ground yarn was used and woven under the same weaving conditions. Thereafter, processing was performed under the same conditions as in Example 2. The ken reduction number of ken reduction is
The high shrinkage yarn and the low shrinkage yarn in the 75 denier 36 filament yarn had substantially the same shrinkage as in Example 2. The average shrinkage of the 75-denier 24-filament yarn of the high shrinkage yarn from the root to half the height is 12 peaks / 25 m.
In m, the average of the number of shrinkage from half height to the tip of the nap fiber was 6 peaks / 25 mm.

The obtained hollow fiber was thicker than that of Example 2 and the bending hardness was increased. Good appearance and reverse strokes were obtained with no problem in both sexes.

The basis weight of the fabric at this time was 540 g / m ² , the same as in Examples 1 and ² . Table 1 shows the main conditions and results.
Shown in

Example 4 Using the chip for high shrinkage yarn (chip II) used in Example 1, a hollow fiber having an outer shape of 30 denier and 6 filaments and a hollow portion square was produced. The conditions at that time were the same as in Example 1. The resulting yarn had a hollow ratio of 30%, a shrinkage ratio of boiling water of 15%, and a dry heat shrinkage ratio of 160 ° C. of 40%. Next, a 75 denier 36 filament yarn of the differential shrinkage mixed fiber yarn used in Example 3 had a twist coefficient of 80.
The pile density was set to 133 / 2.54 cm to match the product basis weight under the weaving conditions using the same ground yarn as in Example 1 where two yarns were twisted to about 105 denier by co / m and used as vertical pile yarn. Others were the same. Thereafter, processing was performed under the same conditions as in Example 2. The high shrinkage yarn and the low shrinkage yarn in the 75 denier 36 filament yarn had substantially the same shrinkage number as that of Example 2. The average of the number of shrinkage of the 30 denier 6 filament yarn of the high shrinkage yarn from the root to the half height is 13 peaks / 25 mm, and the average of the number of shrinkage from the half height to the tip of the nap fiber is: 7 peaks / 25 mm.

In the obtained product, the hollow fiber became thicker than that of Example 3 and the settability was further improved. Appearance and caress were obtained with no problem in both sexes.

The basis weight of the fabric at this time was 540 g / m ² , the same as in Examples 1 to 3. Table 1 shows the main conditions and results.
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Example 5 A 75 denier 36 filament yarn of the differential shrinkage mixed fiber used in Example 1 and a 30 denier 6 filament yarn of the high shrinkage yarn used in Example 4 were twisted at a twist factor of 80 cores / m. The books were twisted to about 105 denier to make a vertical pile yarn. Thereafter, processing was performed under the conditions of Example 4. The reduced number of Ken is 75 denier 3
High shrinkage yarn and low shrinkage yarn among 6 filament yarns were obtained in Example 2.
It was almost the same Ken reduction number. The number of shrinkage of the 30 denier 6 filament yarn of the high shrinkage yarn was almost the same as that of Example 4.

The obtained high shrinkage yarns were all hollow fibers and consisted of 2d and 5d, so that the evaluation of the napping property was better than those of Examples 1-4. The basis weight of the fabric at this time is 540 g, which is the same as in Examples 1 to 4.
/ M ² . Table 1 shows the main conditions and results.

Example 6 The same pile yarn as in Example 5 was used, the pile density under weaving conditions was set to 133 warps / 2.54 cm smaller than in Example 5, and the other conditions were as in Example 5.
And the same. The weight of the obtained product was 500 g / m ² , which was lighter than those of Examples 1 to 4. Normally, when the weight becomes lighter, the appearance is improved, and the strokeability and the settling property are extremely deteriorated. Table 1 shows the main conditions and results.

[Comparative Example 1] Processing was carried out under the same conditions as in Example 1 using the 75-denier 36 filament yarn of the non-hollow shrinkage difference mixed fiber yarn used in Example 3. The difference from Example 1 was that the high shrinkage yarn was not hollow. The basis weight of the obtained product was 540 g / m ^2, which was the same as in Example 1, but was considerably inferior to Example 1 in terms of strokeability and settling.

[Comparative Example 2] Using the same pile yarn as in Comparative Example 1, the pile density under weaving conditions was 103 pieces / h. 2.54 cm and other conditions are Comparative Example 1.
And the same. The basis weight of the obtained product was 600 g / m ² , which was heavier than that of Example 1. In the evaluation of the piloerection, it was comparable to that of Example 1. Table 1 shows the main conditions and results.

[Comparative Example 3] Using the same pile yarn as in Comparative Example 1, processing was performed under the same conditions as in Example 2. The basis weight of the obtained product was 540 g / m ² , the same as in Example 2, but was significantly inferior to Example 2 in terms of strokeability and settling. Table 1 shows the main conditions and results.

[0084]

According to the present invention, seals and chinchilla-like light furs, which have been considered to be almost impossible in the past, are light, and the nap layer has a delicate and soft touch, and the depth of the color An artificial fur having a particularly good appearance and a high level can be obtained.

[Brief description of the drawings]

FIG. 1 is a schematic side view of two piles showing, as a model, the napped state of an example of the napped cloth of the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a schematic cross-sectional view schematically showing an example of a hollow fiber used for the napped fabric of the present invention.

FIG. 3 is a schematic cross-sectional view schematically showing another example of a hollow fiber used for the napped fabric of the present invention.

FIG. 4 is a schematic cross-sectional view schematically showing still another example of the hollow fiber used in the napped fabric of the present invention.

FIG. 5 is a schematic cross-sectional view schematically showing still another example of the hollow fiber used in the napped fabric of the present invention.

FIG. 6 is a schematic cross-sectional view schematically showing still another example of the hollow fiber used in the napped fabric of the present invention.

[Explanation of symbols]

 1: pile fabric (napping fabric) 2: high shrinkage thread napping 3: low shrinkage thread napping 4: ground structure 5: backing layer

Claims (7)

[Claims] 1. A napping fabric having a nap comprising at least a low-shrinkage polyester fiber and a high-shrinkage polyester fiber comprising a mixed fiber, wherein a difference in boiling water shrinkage ratio between the high-shrinkage polyester fiber and the low-shrinkage polyester fiber is 5%. ~ 15%, 1
A raised fabric, wherein the difference in dry heat shrinkage at 60 ° C. is 15 to 40%, and at least a part of the high shrinkage polyester fiber is a hollow fiber. 2. A high shrinkage polyester fiber of 30 to 100.
2. The raised fabric according to claim 1, wherein the weight% is hollow fibers. 3. The napping fiber according to claim 1, wherein the number of shrinkage at the root is greater than the number of shrinkage at the tip.
The napkin fabric according to item 1. 4. The napping fabric according to claim 1, wherein the napping fibers have a single fiber fineness of 0.5 to 15 denier and a napping length of 3 to 20 mm. 5. A multifilament mixed fiber obtained by simultaneously spinning a high shrinkage polyester fiber composed of a copolymerized polyester and a low shrinkage polyester fiber composed of a non-copolymerized polyester. The raised fabric according to claim 1 or 2. 6. The copolymerized polyester is obtained by copolymerizing 5 to 18 mol% of at least two third components selected from the group consisting of dicarboxylic acids, glycols, bisphenol A and bisphenol sulfone as the third components. The napped fabric according to claim 5, wherein 7. A high-shrinkage polyester fiber containing at least a low-shrinkage polyester fiber and a high-shrinkage polyester fiber, wherein the difference in boiling water shrinkage between the high-shrinkage polyester fiber and the low-shrinkage polyester fiber is 5 to 15%, and the dry heat shrinkage at 160 ° C. The difference is 15 to 40%, and at least a part of the high-shrinkage polyester fiber is in a temperature range of 150 to 250 ° C. in a base cloth side of a nap and a base cloth made of a mixed fiber which is a hollow fiber. And heating at a temperature higher than the napping side by 50 ° C. or more to impart crimping to the napping fibers.