JPH0987910A - Top collar - Google Patents

Abstract

PROBLEM TO BE SOLVED: To obtain a top collar having a soft touch feeling, hardly forming a surface roughness or the adsorption of a soil by a washing, less in collapse of its shape and formation of a pucker ring, easy in its sewing work and useful for a dress shirt by using a water soluble adhesive resin for a collar leaf stand padding. SOLUTION: This top collar is obtained by laminating and adhering a collar leaf stand padding 12 consisting of an adhesive padding and cut without a sewing margin around the tip of the collar, and a collar leaf extra padding 13 cut including a sewing margin except for a collar waist line part on a surface top collar 11 in that order and sewing the surface top collar 11 with a reverse top collar 14, and a water soluble adhesive resin such as a polyvinyl alcohol is used as the collar leaf stand padding 12.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a top collar such as a dress shirt. In detail, it has a soft texture,
In addition, the present invention relates to a top collar which is less likely to be roughened by surface and adsorbed by dirt even after repeated washing processes and which is less likely to lose its shape or pucker.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, upper collars have been prepared by adhering an adhesive interlining to a front collar and those not adhering to the upper collar. There was something. The upper collar made by adhering the adhesive interlining to the front upper collar has a collar blade base core 2, a collar blade additional core 3 and a collar blade collar tip additional core 5 made of the adhesive interlining as shown in FIG. c) As shown in (d), the front collar 1 and the back collar 4 are cut as shown in FIG.
(A) and as shown in FIG. 5, the non-adhesive side surface of the front collar 1 in which the collar blade core 2, the collar blade additional core 3 and the collar blade tip additional core 5 are laminated in this order and adhered. It was made by combining the upper and lower collars 4 and ground stitching. For this reason, there are few sewing deviations, puckering is less likely to occur, and puckering is less likely to occur even in washing and the like, which is often used for dress shirts and other upper collars.

However, since the upper collar and the adhesive interlining are adhered to each other, the upper collar has a hard texture and is easily deformed or shrunk due to laundry or the like, and surface roughness or dirt is adsorbed by repeated washing treatment. Was occurring.

On the other hand, the upper collar produced without adhering the adhesive interlining to the front upper collar has the shape shown in FIG. 6 (a) on the collar blade base 2 made of non-adhesive interlining. 6 (b) (c)
A collar blade core 3 made of an adhesive interlining cut as shown in FIG.
And, the collar blade collar tip additional core 5 is laminated and adhered in this order, and as shown in FIG. 7, the collar blade core 2, the front collar 1 and the back collar 4 are laminated in this order for ground stitching. Therefore, there are advantages that the texture is hard to be hardened, deformation and shrinkage are less likely to occur due to laundry and the like, and surface roughness is less likely to occur even after repeated washing treatments.

However, since this upper collar is sewn together with three pieces of a collar blade core, a front collar and a back collar, sewing deviation and stitch shrinkage easily occur, and puckering also occurs during washing and the like. It tended to be easy.

The present invention has been made in view of the above circumstances, has a soft texture, and is less likely to cause surface roughness and dirt adsorption even by repeated washing treatment, and loses its shape or puckering. The purpose is to provide a top collar with less occurrence of.

[0007]

In order to achieve the above-mentioned object, the invention according to claim 1 is such that a collar blade base core made of an adhesive interlining material and a collar blade additional core are sequentially laminated on a front collar. In the upper collar formed by adhering the front upper collar and the back upper collar with each other, a water-soluble adhesive resin is used for the core of the collar blade.

The invention according to claim 2 has as its gist an upper collar characterized in that the collar blade core is cut except for the seam allowance around the collar.

The invention according to claim 3 has as its gist an upper collar characterized in that the collar blade core is cut including the seam allowance except for the collar waist line portion.

According to a fourth aspect of the present invention, a collar blade base core made of an adhesive interlining material and a collar blade additional core are laminated and adhered in this order on the front collar, and further, the front collar and the back collar. In the upper collar sewn with, a non-adhesive interlining cut apart from the seam allowance around the collar is arranged between the front upper collar and the collar blade base. Was the gist.

[0011]

The upper collar of the present invention will be described in more detail below. As shown in FIGS. 1 and 2, the upper collar according to claims 1 to 3 includes a front collar 11, a collar blade base 12, a collar blade additional core 13, and a back collar 14. Collar blade base 12
Each of the collar blade additional cores 13 is an adhesive interlining in which an adhesive resin is uniformly fused in the form of dots or powder on the surface of a fabric such as a woven fabric, a knitted fabric or a non-woven fabric.

These are cut as shown in FIG. 1 (b) or (c), and a collar blade base 12 and a collar blade increasing core 13 are laminated in this order on the front collar 11 shown in FIG. 1 (a). Then, by adhesively pressing with a press machine such as a top fuse press machine,
Collar blade base 12, collar blade addition 13, and collar blade base 12
And the front collar 11 are adhered.

Then, as shown in FIG. 1D, the back upper collar 1
4 is cut, and this is cut into a collar blade base 12 and a collar blade increasing core 13
Laminated on the non-adhesive side of the front upper collar 11 to which is adhered and sewn in the ground, and then return the collar Has been created.

In this upper collar, the collar blade base 12
In addition, of the collar blade cores 13, the collar blade base 12 is made of water-soluble adhesive resin such as polyvinyl alcohol. For this reason, when clothes are made using the upper collar and then soaked in water by washing or the like, the collar blade base 12 and the collar blade increasing core 13 are bonded to each other by the adhesive resin of the collar blade increasing core 13. Although held, the collar blade pedestal 12 and the front collar 11 are in a non-contact state because the water-soluble adhesive resin of the collar blade pedestal 12 melts, and a non-adhesive interlining is attached to the collar blade pedestal 12. It has the same soft texture as when used.

If a collar having a large washing shrinkage ratio is used for the collar blade base 12, when the collar blade core 12 is peeled off from the front collar 11 when the water-soluble adhesive resin is melted. Since the collar has a surplus and the shape and puckering easily occur,
It is desirable to use an interlining with a small washing shrinkage.

In the embodiment shown in FIG. 2, the collar blade base 12 is shown in FIG.
As shown in FIG. 2 (b), the collar is cut except for the seam around the neck, and the collar blade core 13 includes the seam except for the waist line and the tip of the neck as shown in FIG. 2 (c). The adhesive interlinings, which have been cut, are cut on the front collar 11 cut as shown in FIG.
By laminating in this order and adhering and pressing with a pressing machine such as a top fuse press machine, the collar blade base 12, the collar blade increasing core 13, and the collar blade core 12 and the front collar 11 are adhered.

Then, as shown in (e) of FIG.
4 is cut, and this is cut into a collar blade base 12 and a collar blade increasing core 13
The upper collar is produced by laminating it on the non-adhesive side surface of the front upper collar 11 to which is adhered, sewn on the ground, and returning the collar.

In this upper collar, a water-soluble adhesive resin such as polyvinyl alcohol is used for the collar blade base 12 as in the embodiment shown in FIG. For this reason, when the clothes are tailored using the upper collar and then soaked in water for washing,
Collar blade core 12 and collar blade core 13 are the same as collar blade core 1
Although the adhesive state is maintained by the adhesive resin of 3,
The collar blade base 12 and the front collar 11 are in a non-contact state because the water-soluble adhesive resin of the collar blade core 12 is melted, which is the same as when a conventional non-adhesive interlining is used for the collar blade core. It has a soft texture.

Further, in this upper collar, the collar blade base 12
As shown in FIG. 2 (b), since it is cut except for the seam allowance around the collar, when the front upper collar 11 and the back upper collar 14 are ground-sewn and the collar is returned, It plays the role of a finished gauge, and the collar can be easily returned along the collar blade core 12, and the collar shaping press work can be efficiently performed.

Further, in this upper collar, the collar blade core addition 1
As shown in FIG. 2 (c), 3 is cut to include the seam allowance except for the collar waist line part. In other words, the collar waist line part is cut off only for the seam allowance. When the upper collar is produced by stitching 11 and the back upper collar 14 to the ground, the adhesive interlining existing in the waist line of the collar of the upper collar is the collar blade base 12
It is only chiseled and thin and easy to break. Therefore, when the upper collar is tailored by using it as an upper garment such as a shirt, the upper collar can be easily bent.

Since this collar blade core 13 is cut including the seam allowance except for the collar waist line portion, as shown in FIG. 2 (c), the collar blade core 12 laminated on the front collar 11 is laminated. When stacking on top, it can be easily positioned by just matching the collar area.

The upper collar is formed by laminating and adhering on the collar blade core 13 a collar blade collar tip core 15 made of an adhesive interlining cut as shown in FIG. 2 (d). You can also measure the reinforcement of the neck of the collar.

Next, the upper collar of claim 4 will be described. As shown in FIG. 3, the upper collar includes a front collar 11, a collar blade core 12, a collar blade core 13, a back collar 14, and a non-bonding interlining 16. The non-adhesive interlining 16 is a so-called plush core such as a woven fabric core, a knitted fabric core, and a non-woven fabric core that are not processed with an adhesive resin. When the non-adhesive interlining 16 has a large thickness, when the non-adhesive interlining 16 is laminated on the front collar 11 together with the adhesive interlining 12, a dimensional difference occurs between the non-adhesive interlining 16 and the front collar 11 and the non-adhesive interlining 16 is located on the front collar 11 side. There is a surplus and slack is likely to occur. Therefore, it is desirable that the non-adhesive interlining 16 be thin, have a soft texture, and have excellent dimensional stability. As shown in FIG. 3B, the non-adhesive interlining 16 is cut except for the seam allowance around the neck, and the front collar 1 cut as shown in FIG. 3A.
Stack on 1.

Each of the collar blade base core 12 and the collar blade increasing core 13 is an adhesive interlining in which an adhesive resin is fused in a dot shape on the surface of a fabric such as a woven fabric, a knitted fabric or a non-woven fabric. Collar blade base 12
3 is cut into the same shape as the front collar 11 and the back collar 14 shown in FIG. 3 (e), as shown in FIG. 3 (c).
Further, as shown in FIG. 3D, the periphery of the collar blade core 13 is cut except for the seam allowance. These collar blade base core 12
And, the collar blade core 13 is laminated on the non-bonded interlining 16 laminated on the front collar 11 in the order of the collar blade core 12 and the collar blade core 13.

These front collar 11 and non-adhesive interlining 1
6, after stacking the collar blade base 12 and the collar blade increasing core 13,
Adhesive press with a press machine such as a top fuse press machine. As a result, the interlinings of the non-adhesive interlining 16, the collar blade base 12, and the collar blade additional core 13 are bonded together, and the seam allowance around the collar of the collar blade base 12 is directly bonded to the front collar 11. Then, the laminated members are integrated. After that, the back upper collar 14 is laminated on the side surface of the front upper collar 11 where the adhesive interlining is not adhered, ground stitched, and the collar is returned to produce the upper collar.

In the upper collar thus produced, the portion other than the seam allowance around the collar of the collar blade base 12 is adhered to the non-adhesive interlining 16 and directly to the upper collar 11. Since they are not adhered, the non-adhesive interlining 16 and the front collar 11 are in a non-adhesive state, and have the same soft texture as when a non-adhesive interlining is used for the conventional collar blade base.

Although not shown, the upper collar is further laminated on the collar blade core 13 and further laminated with a collar blade collar tip core made of an adhesive interlining to bond the upper collar collar with reinforcement. You can also

[0028]

【Example】

Example 1 A woven fabric (weight: 105 g / m ² , thickness: 0.22 mm) plain woven at a ratio of polyester 65 / cotton 35 was used, and this was cut as shown in (a) and (d) of FIG. The collar 11 and the back upper collar 14 are used.

A plain weave fabric (weight: 250 g / m ² , thickness: 0.45 mm) of polyester 65 / cotton 35 was used, and an adhesive resin made of polyvinyl alcohol was applied on the surface of the fabric at a coating amount of 1.5 g / m ² . The adhesive interlining applied in step 1 is cut as shown in FIG.

A plain woven fabric (weight: 160 g / m ² , thickness: 0.32 mm) with a ratio of polyester 65 / cotton 35 was used, and an adhesive resin made of high-density polyethylene was applied on the surface of the woven fabric in a dot shape of 175 points / cm ² . 39 g / m
^As shown in FIG. 1 (c), the adhesive interlining coated with the coating amount of ² is cut except for the seam allowance around the collar tip to form the collar blade core addition 13.

Next, on the front collar 11, the collar vane core 1
2. Laminate the collar blade add-on core 13 in this order, and place these at 140 °
Adhesion was performed using a roller-type adhesion press machine under the adhesion conditions of C, 3 kg / cm ² , and 15 seconds. After this, the collar blade base 1
The upper collar was obtained by laminating the back upper collar 14 on the non-adhesive surface side of the front upper collar 11 to which 2 and the collar blade core 13 were adhered, sewn in the ground, and returning the collar.

Example 2 The same fabric as the front collar 11 and the back collar 14 of Example 1 was used, and this was cut as shown in FIGS. 3 (a) and 3 (e),
As the front upper collar 11 and the back upper collar 14, the same fabric was cut as shown in FIG. 3 (b) except for the seam allowance around the front of the collar to obtain a non-adhesive interlining 16.

The same adhesive interlining as the collar blade core 13 of Example 1 was used, and this was cut as shown in FIG. 3 (c) to form a collar blade base 12, and the same adhesive interlining was used as shown in FIG. 3 (d). As shown in (), the periphery was cut off except for the seam allowance to obtain a collar blade core core 13.

Next, the non-adhesive interlining 1 is placed on the front collar 11.
6, the collar blade base core 12, and the collar blade increasing core 13 were laminated in this order, and these were bonded under a bonding condition of 140 ° C., 3 kg / cm ² , and 15 seconds using a roller-type bonding press. After this, the back upper collar 14 is laminated on the non-adhesive surface side of the front upper collar 11 to which the collar blade core 12 and the collar blade additional core 13 are adhered, and ground stitching is performed.
The upper collar was obtained by returning the collar.

Comparative Example 1 The same fabric as the front collar 11 and the back collar 14 of Example 1 was used, and this fabric was cut as shown in FIGS. 4 (a) and 5 to obtain the front collar 1 and the back collar. The upper collar is 4. Further, the same adhesive interlining material as the collar blade core 13 of Example 1 was used, and this was cut as shown in FIGS. 4 (b) and 4 (c) to form the collar blade core 2 or the collar blade core 3, respectively. did.

Next, on the front collar 1, a collar blade base core 2,
Laminate the collar blade cores 3 in this order, and set them at 140 ° C for 3k.
Bonding was performed using a roller-type bonding press machine under the bonding conditions of g / cm ² and 15 seconds. Thereafter, the back upper collar 4 was laminated on the non-adhesive surface side of the front upper collar 1 to which the collar blade core 2 and the collar blade additional core 3 were adhered, ground stitched, and the upper collar was obtained by returning the collar.

Comparative Example 2 A woven fabric (weight 245 g / m ² , thickness 0.44 mm) plain woven at a ratio of polyester 65 / cotton 35 was used, and this was cut as shown in FIG. A collar blade base 2 made of interlining was used. On the other hand, the same fabric as the front collar 11 and the back collar 14 of Example 1 was used, and the same fabric was cut as shown in FIG. 7 to obtain a front collar 1 and a back collar 4. Further, the same adhesive interlining as the collar blade core 13 of Example 1 was used, and this was used as shown in FIG.
It was cut as shown in (b) to obtain a collar-blade core core 3.

Next, the collar blade core 2 and the collar blade increasing core 3 are laminated in this order, and these are laminated at 140 ° C., 3 kg / cm ² , 1
Bonding was performed using a roller-type bonding press machine under a bonding condition of 5 seconds. After that, the upper collar core to which the collar blade core 2 and the collar blade additional core 3 are bonded, the front collar 1 and the back collar 4 are laminated and ground stitched,
The upper collar was obtained by returning the collar.

Table 1 shows the properties of the upper collars of Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 and 2.

[0040]

[0041]

According to the upper collar of the first aspect, the water-soluble adhesive resin of the collar blade core is melted by washing with water such as washing, so that the collar blade core and the front collar are not in contact with each other. As with the conventional non-adhesive interlining, it has a soft texture, and it is difficult for surface roughness and dirt to be adsorbed even after repeated washing, resulting in good shape and puckering. It rarely occurs.

In the upper collar according to claim 2, since the collar blade core is cut except the seam allowance around the collar, when the front upper collar and the back upper collar are sewn with the ground, the collar is returned. The collar blade base serves as a finished gauge, and the collar can be easily returned along the collar blade core, and the collar shaping press work can be efficiently performed.

In the upper collar according to claim 3, since the collar blade core is cut including the seam allowance except for the waist line of the collar, the front upper collar and the back upper collar are ground-sewn. When the upper collar is manufactured, the adhesive interlining existing in the neck waistline portion of the upper collar is only the collar blade base core, and is thin and easily broken. Therefore, when the upper collar is tailored by using it as an upper garment such as a shirt, the upper collar can be easily bent.

Also, in this upper collar, the collar blade core is cut including the seam allowance except for the collar waist line portion, so when laminating on the collar blade core, just match the collar tip. Can be easily positioned.

In the upper collar according to claim 4, the portion other than the seam allowance around the collar of the collar blade base is adhered to the non-adhesive interlining, and is not directly adhered to the front collar, and Since the non-adhesive interlining and the front collar are in a non-adhesive state, they have the same soft texture as when a non-adhesive interlining is used for the conventional collar blade core, and even after repeated washing treatment. Rough surface and adsorption of dirt hardly occur.

In this upper collar, the interlinings of the non-adhesive interlining, the collar blade base and the collar blade additional core are adhered to each other, and the seam allowance around the collar of the collar blade base is directly exposed. Since it is bonded and integrated with the upper collar, it is easy to sew along with the back collar, and puckering is unlikely to occur.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a plan view showing a front collar, a collar vane core, a collar vane core and a back collar in the upper collar of the present invention.

FIG. 2 shows a front collar, a collar vane core, a collar vane core, a collar vane collar tip core core, and a back upper collar in the upper collar of the present invention, and another cutting of the collar vane core and the collar vane core The top view which showed the example.

FIG. 3 is a plan view showing a front collar, a non-adhesive interlining, a collar vane core, a collar vane core and a back collar in the upper collar of the present invention.

FIG. 4 is a plan view showing a front collar, a collar vane core, a collar vane core, and a collar vane tip core core in a conventional upper collar.

FIG. 5 is a plan view showing a front upper collar and a back upper collar to which an adhesive interlining is adhered in a conventional upper collar.

FIG. 6 is a plan view showing a collar blade base core made of non-adhesive interlining material, a collar blade core addition, and a collar blade collar tip core core in a conventional upper collar.

FIG. 7 is a plan view showing a neck blade base core, a front upper collar, and a back upper collar, to which an adhesive interlining is bonded in a conventional upper collar.

[Explanation of symbols]

 11 ... Front collar 12 ... Collar blade core 13 ... Collar blade core 14 ... Back collar 15 ... Collar blade tip core core 16 ... Non-adhesive interlining

Claims (4)

[Claims] 1. A front and back collar are formed by laminating a front and back collar together with a front and rear collar blade core made of an adhesive interlining layer and an additional core blade. In the upper collar,
An upper collar characterized in that a water-soluble adhesive resin is used for the core blade core. 2. The upper collar according to claim 1, wherein the collar blade core is cut except for a seam allowance around the collar tip. 3. The upper collar according to claim 1, wherein the collar blade core is cut including a seam allowance except for a collar waistline portion. 4. A front and back collar and a front and back collar are sewn together by laminating a front and back collar collar made of an adhesive interlining on the front collar. In the upper collar,
An upper collar, characterized in that a non-adhesive interlining cut apart from the seam allowance around the collar is arranged between the front upper collar and the collar blade core.