JPH08100366A - Deeply dyeable specific processed yarn - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE: To obtain a specific deeply dyeable processed yarn good in post- processability and capable of giving a web excellent in a deeply dyeing effect, when woven or knitted and subsequently dyed. CONSTITUTION: A crimped polyester yarn is composed from filaments having uneven shapes or fine pores on their surfaces. The crimped polyester yarn has a birefringence (Δn) of 70×10<-3> to 120×10<-3> , an elongation of 20-50%, a crimping degree of <=20%, and a deeply dyeable property giving a dyeing L value of <=11.5 with a black dyestuff for a web.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a deep dyeing specially processed yarn which has good post-workability and can be made into a fabric having an excellent deep dyeing effect by dyeing after weaving, knitting and weaving.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art With the recent trend toward higher grades, there has been a demand for processed yarns having an excellent deep dyeing effect in the fields such as formal black. Therefore, polyester highly oriented undrawn yarn (hereinafter,
It is called undrawn yarn. It has been proposed to use a false-twisting process in which the draw ratio is as low as possible during the false-twisting process of (1) and the false-twisting process is performed to suppress the orientation of the yarn and enhance the deep dyeing effect.

However, when the draw ratio is lowered, yarn breakage occurs due to ballooning in the normal pin type false twisting method, and in the friction type, the twisting efficiency is deteriorated as the tension is lowered. At present, it is difficult to obtain a false twist crimped yarn having a low degree of orientation.

Therefore, the inventors of the present invention have proposed in Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 4-214431 a method of false twisting using a fluid swirling nozzle as a twisting body instead of a pin type or a friction type. In this method, a fluid swirling nozzle is used for the twisted body, and false twisting is performed with a low false twist number without stretching the undrawn yarn. Yarn can be obtained. However, since the residual yarn elongation of the obtained textured yarn is high and the textured yarn is very stretchable, the yarn is easily stretched by the tension received during the weaving preparation process and during the weaving and weaving, and this textured yarn alone has a post-processability. There was a problem with this, and it could not be used alone for practical purposes.

In order to solve this problem, a method of compounding with another drawn yarn has been proposed, but the composite processed yarn obtained by this method is suitable for a combination of a low orientation yarn and a drawn yarn. Since there is a difference in dyeability between the two yarns, there is a problem that unevenness occurs and the deep dyeing effect is halved.

On the other hand, in Japanese Patent Publication No. 59-34810, a semi-stretched yarn is false twisted at a low stretch ratio using a fluid twisting element.
Subsequently, the crimped yarn obtained by drawing at a draw ratio of 1.05 to 1.7 times is described. This textured yarn is not intended for the deep dyeing effect, but has a higher secondary draw ratio to produce crimps similar to those of ordinary false twist textured yarns. Since a false twisting process was performed using a fluid swirling nozzle, the deep dyeing effect was recognized as compared with the normal false twisted yarn, but it was still insufficient.

[0007]

DISCLOSURE OF THE INVENTION The present invention solves the above-mentioned conventional problems, has good post-processability, can be used alone without forming a composite yarn, and has an excellent deep dyeing effect. It is a technical object to provide a deep dyeing specially processed yarn which can be used as a cloth.

[0008]

Means for Solving the Problems As a result of intensive studies for solving the above-mentioned problems, the present inventors have adopted a yarn having a special shape on the surface of a filament, which has low orientation and low elongation. The present invention has been achieved by finding that the dyed L value of a fabric can be markedly reduced by setting the yarn quality.

That is, the present invention has the following configuration.

(1) A polyester crimped yarn composed of filaments having an uneven shape or fine pores on the surface thereof, having a birefringence (Δn) of 70 × 10 ⁻³ to 120 × 10 ⁻³ and an elongation. Is 20 to 50%, the crimping rate is 20% or less, the surface of the yarn has loops and slack, and the fabric is dyed with a black dye L
A deep dyeing specially processed yarn characterized by having a deep dyeing property with a value of 11.0 or less.

(2) The surface of the yarn has loops and slack,
Further, the deep dyeing specially-processed yarn according to (1) above, which has a deep dyeing property such that the dyed L value of the cloth with the black dye is 11.0 or less.

The present invention will be described in detail below.

In the deep dyeing specially processed yarn of the present invention, the surface of the filament constituting the yarn has fine irregularities or microcrater-like fine holes. The concavo-convex shape or the fine pores in the present invention means a minute one in a unit of μm, and does not mean a simple cross-sectional shape of a thread of irregular cross section (triangular cross section, hexagonal cross section, etc.). The above surface shape may be present at the stage of the processed yarn, but may be formed in the state of the cloth after the knitting and weaving.

Since the filaments forming the yarn have the above-mentioned surface shape, when the fiber surface is irradiated with light, the irregular surface shape causes the light to repeatedly diffuse and be absorbed inside the fiber to be exposed to the outside. It is possible to express a deep color by the effect of reducing the reflected light of.

The textured yarn of the present invention has a birefringence (Δ
It is necessary that n) satisfy the characteristics of 70 × 10 ^{−3 to} 120 × 10 ⁻³ , elongation of 20 to 50%, and crimp ratio of 20% or less. When the birefringence (Δn) is 70 × 10 ^-3 to 120 × 10 ^-3, it is a low orientation yarn in which the progress of orientation degree is suppressed as much as possible, so the dye exhaustion rate is high and the deep dyeing property is high. Is a significantly improved thread.
Particularly, the range of 90 × 10 ⁻³ to 110 × 10 ⁻³ is preferable. When the birefringence (Δn) is less than 70 × 10 ^-3 , although it has a deep dyeing effect, it is a low-orientation yarn, which causes physical changes with time and variations in quality. The birefringence (Δn) is 120 × 10.
^If it exceeds ^-3 , the structure inside the fiber is changed and the degree of orientation is high, and it is difficult for the dye to enter the inside of the fiber and a deep dyeing effect cannot be expected.

Next, when the elongation of the processed yarn is 20 to 50%,
The yarn is not stretched by the tension received during the weaving preparation process or during the knitting and weaving, and the fabric having excellent post-processability and stable quality can be obtained. If the elongation is less than 20%, the post-processability is excellent, but the degree of orientation advances and it approximates to a drawn yarn, so a deep dyeing effect cannot be expected. On the other hand, if the elongation exceeds 50%, the yarns are likely to be stretched due to the tension received during the weaving preparation process or during the knitting and weaving, and the post-processability is deteriorated, and a fabric with stable quality cannot be obtained.

Further, when the crimping rate is 20% or less, the twisting phenomenon of the fiber during the production of the textured yarn is weak, the structural change inside the fiber is small, and the cross-section deformation is gentle, so that the orientation degree is high. The progress of the process was suppressed as much as possible, and the deep dyeing effect was excellent.

The crimping rate is particularly preferably 5 to 15%. When the crimping ratio exceeds 20%, the twisting phenomenon of the fiber is strong, so that the structural change and cross-sectional deformation inside the fiber become large, the degree of orientation is advanced, and the deep dyeing effect cannot be expected.

As described above, the deep dyeing specially processed yarn of the present invention is woven and knitted into a fabric by the synergistic effect of the surface shape of the filaments forming the yarn and the physical properties of the yarn quality, and is then dyed with a black dye. When dyed, it has a deep dyeing property with an L value of 11.5 or less, preferably 10.5 or less.

Further, by imparting a loop or slack to the above-mentioned processed yarn, the deep dyeing property can be further improved. In other words, if loops and slack are added to the above processed yarn,
Each filament is intricately bent and entangled, forming loops and slack on the yarn surface.

When such a yarn form is exhibited, voids are formed between the filaments, the filaments have an appropriate bulge, and a span-like feeling due to loops and slack can be expressed. Also, due to the complicated internal refraction between filaments, the diffused light reflected to the outside is reduced, the depth of color is increased, and the deep dyeing property is further improved.

As described above, when loops and slack are imparted, in addition to the surface shape of the filaments constituting the yarn and the physical properties of the yarn, a synergistic effect brought about by the three characteristics of the yarn form results in knitting and weaving. If the cloth is dyed with a black dye after being made into a cloth, the L value is 11.0 or less, preferably 10.0 or less, and the deep dyeing property is obtained.

In the present invention, as the polyester,
Polyethylene terephthalate (PET) or a copolyester having PET as a main component is preferable.

Next, an example of a method for producing the deep dyeing specially processed yarn of the present invention will be described.

First, as the undrawn yarn to be the supply yarn, those having a birefringence (Δn) of 20 × 10 ⁻³ to 80 × 10 ⁻³ are used.
If the birefringence (Δn) is less than 20 × 10 ^-3 , the physical properties change significantly over time, resulting in variations in quality and fusing during false twisting. Also, when it exceeds 80 × 10 ^-3 ,
The deep dyeing processed yarn intended by the present invention cannot be obtained.

As described above, the textured yarn of the present invention has irregularities or fine pores on the surface of the filaments forming the yarn, but the supply yarn itself does not necessarily have this shape, It suffices that such a surface shape is obtained at the time of forming the processed yarn of the invention or before being dyed into a cloth, and from the processed surface, a method of changing the surface shape by post-treatment (alkali weight reduction processing) is preferable.

In order to change the surface shape of the filament by treating with a solvent such as alkali, a method in which polymers having different solubilities are spun by a complex spinning method to remove easily soluble components to give a modified shape, or a polyester is polymerized A method may be employed in which fine particles inactive to polyester are added at the time of spinning or during spinning, spinning is performed, and the fine particles are removed by alkali weight reduction processing to form fine pores.

In the former method of removing the easily soluble component and deforming the surface of the filament into an uneven shape, it is preferable that the width and height of the uneven projections are as small as several μm. It is preferably 15 or more and more. further,
The array distribution and the shape of the uneven portions are not particularly limited. For example, as in the filament cross section shown in FIG. 1, convex and concave portions are alternately and substantially evenly distributed on the surface, and the cross section of the convex portion is It is possible to adopt a rectangular shape or a substantially trapezoidal shape.

In the latter method for removing fine particles, the content of fine particles is 1 to 15% by weight of polyester,
Fine particles having a particle size of 2 μm or less are preferable, but may be in a range that does not cause a trouble during spinning. Then, if the fine particles on the surface of the filament are removed by alkali reduction processing, microcrater-like fine holes can be formed.

The type of fine particles used above is not particularly limited, but inorganic compounds such as ceramics,
For example, oxides such as barium, calcium, magnesium and aluminum, sulfates, carbonates, phosphates and silica can be preferably used.

Next, using the undrawn yarn having irregularities or fine pores on the surface of the above-mentioned filament or the undrawn yarn having the above-mentioned shape by the post-treatment (alkali weight reduction processing) as a supply yarn, the manufacturing process shown in FIG. An example of producing a deep dyeing specially processed yarn having loops and slack will be described.

In FIG. 2, the undrawn yarn Y is supplied by the supply roller 1 to the false twisting region between the supply roller 1 and the first take-up roller 4, twisted by the fluid swirling nozzle 3, and heated by the heater 2. Set. Next, the yarn that has passed through the first take-up roller 4 is stretched between the first take-up roller 4 and the second take-up roller 5, and then subjected to fluid jet processing by the fluid jet nozzle 6 to obtain the third take-up roller. It is wound up on the package 8 via the roller 7.

When no loop or slack is given to the yarn, the processed yarn drawn between the first take-up roller 4 and the second take-up roller 5 is subjected to no fluid injection processing, It may be wound up on the package 8.

In the above manufacturing method, as false twisting conditions, for example, when processing at 250 m / min, the overfeed rate is -3 to 7%, the heater temperature is 200 to 220 ° C, and the false twist number (10,
000-14,000) / D ^1/2 (D is the fineness of the supplied yarn: denier),
The air pressure of the fluid swirling nozzle is preferably 3 to 5 kg / cm ² . The stretching conditions are preferably a stretching ratio of 1.1 to 1.3 and a stretching temperature of room temperature. Furthermore, the conditions for fluid jet machining are: overfeed rate 3-10%, air pressure 5-7.
kg / cm ² is preferred.

As described above, the birefringence (Δn) is 70 × 10 ⁻³ to 1 by subjecting the undrawn yarn to the false twist crimping process with the fluid swirling nozzle without greatly drawing it and then drawing it.
A deep dyeing specially processed yarn with a low orientation of 20 × 10 ^-3 , an elongation of 20 to 50% and a crimping rate of 20% or less is obtained. Furthermore, if this processed yarn is subjected to fluid treatment with a fluid jet nozzle to impart mixed fiber entanglement, loops and slack, a processed yarn with further improved deep dyeing property will be obtained.

The dyed L value of the cloth used in the present invention with the black dye is measured as follows. First, the yarn is knitted into a tubular knitted fabric, and then dyed with the following dyeing recipe. <Dyeing prescription> Scouring scouring agent: Sanmor FL (manufactured by Nichika Chemical Co., Ltd.) 2 g / liter Temperature x time: 80 ° C x 20 minutes ・ Alkali reduction caustic soda: 40 g / liter Temperature x time: 98 ° C x 30 minutes・ Dyeing colorant: Dyanix Black HG-FS 15% owf (manufactured by Mitsubishi Kasei Hoechst) Auxiliary agent: Nikka Sunsalt SN-130 0.5 g / l (Nichika Chemical Co., Ltd.) Acetic acid 0.2 cc / l Bath ratio: 1:50 Temperature × time: 135 ° C. × 30 minutes ・ Washing / reducing cleaning agent: Visnol P-70 5 g / liter (manufactured by Yatasha Yushi Kogyo Co., Ltd.) Temperature × time: 80 ° C. × 20 minutes The above dyeing recipe A tubular knitted fabric dyed with
Measure the reflectance with a -2020 type spectrophotometer and
The value obtained by obtaining the density index from the color difference formula of the lab is the dye L value, and the smaller the dye L value, the deeper the color.

Next, the crimp ratio in the present invention is measured by the following method. First of all, double the yarns taken by a measuring machine 5 times, hang it on a stand under a load of 1/6000 (g / d), leave it for 30 minutes, and then keep it in boiling water. Put in and leave for 30 minutes. Then, air-dry for 30 minutes, apply a load of 1/500 (g / d), and measure the length (a).
Then, remove the load and apply a load of 1/20 (g / d) to measure the length (b). Then, the crimp rate is obtained from the following equation. Crimp ratio (%) = [(ba) / b] × 100 Further, the birefringence (Δn) is measured by an interference fringe measurement method using a combination of a polarization microscope and a compensator, and the elongation is measured. Is measured according to JIS-L-1090.

[0038]

EXAMPLES Next, the present invention will be specifically described by way of examples.

Examples 1 and 2 PET was used as the difficult-to-dissolve component, and 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid was 2.5 mol% as the easily-dissolvable component.
12% by weight copolymerization of 7,000 polyethylene glycols P
Using ET, the spinneret and composite spinning were designed so that the cross-sectional shape of the filament is a core-sheath structure yarn in which the easily-eluting component is divided into a plurality of gear-like easily-eluting components on the circumference of the fiber as shown in FIG. It was spun using the device.

Using the undrawn yarn (110d / 36f) having the obtained birefringence (Δn) of 58 × 10 ⁻³ as the feed yarn, according to the manufacturing process of FIG. Stretching → fluid treatment (Example 2 only) was performed in series.

[0041]

[Table 1]

The obtained processed yarn has a birefringence (Δn) of 96.
Example 10 is a low elongation and low orientation yarn of × 10 ^-3 and elongation of 40%.
The textured yarn obtained in 1. was a mixed fiber entangled yarn in which loops and slack were formed on the yarn surface. After knitting these yarns into a tubular knitted fabric, the easily-eluting components were removed by alkali weight reduction processing by a conventional method to obtain a deep dyeing specially processed yarn of the present invention. After the elution, there were 30 convex portions with a width of 1 μm and a height of 2.5 μm on the surface of the filament, which had an uneven shape. Then, the tubular knitted fabric was dyed with a black dye, and the L value was measured. The L value of the tubular knitted fabric obtained in Example 1 was 10.0, and the L value of the tubular knitted fabric obtained in Example 2 was 9.5. All of them were deep black and were of high quality black knitted fabric. Further, the yarn was not stretched during knitting of the above-mentioned tubular knitted fabric, and the process passability was excellent.

Comparative Example 1 Only the false twisting process was performed under the same conditions as in Example 1 to obtain a processed yarn. The obtained textured yarn has an elongation of 70% and is very stretchable,
A tubular knitted fabric was knitted using this processed yarn, but the yarns were partially stretched by the tension received during knitting, and a tubular knitted fabric with stable quality could not be obtained.

Examples 3 to 4 Calcium carbonate having an average particle size of 0.2 μm was used as fine particles of 5.5.
PET unstretched yarn (80d / 48f) having a birefringence (Δn) of 55 × 10 ⁻³ , which was contained by weight%, was used as a feed yarn and processed under the conditions of Table 2 according to the manufacturing process of FIG. 3 is not subjected to fluid treatment after stretching at room temperature).

[0045]

[Table 2]

The obtained textured yarn has a birefringence (Δn) of 1
The textured yarn obtained in Example 4 was 00 × 10 ^{−3 with} an elongation of 45% and was a low elongation entangled yarn having loops and slack.
After cylindrically knitting these yarns, alkali reduction processing and dyeing finishing processing were performed as in Example 1.

Fine particles were removed from the surface of the filament after alkali reduction, and 45 microcrater-like fine pores were formed in the cross section. The tubular knitted fabric obtained in Example 3 was dyed with L. The value was 10.3, and the L value after dyeing of the tubular knitted fabric obtained in Example 4 was as low as 9.8, and the bathochromic property was further improved.

Further, the yarn was not stretched during the knitting of the tubular knitted fabric, and the process passability was excellent.

[0049]

EFFECTS OF THE INVENTION According to the present invention, the post-processability is excellent and the deep dyeing property is obtained by the synergistic effect of the special surface shape of the filaments forming the yarn and the physical properties of the low elongation and low orientation of the yarn quality. It is possible to provide a deep dyeing specially-processed yarn suitable as a yarn for a woven or knitted product, which is capable of obtaining a fabric having an excellent depth.

When a loop or slack is imparted to the processed yarn, in addition to the special surface shape of the filaments forming the yarn and the physical properties of the yarn having a low elongation and a low degree of orientation, the loop or slack on the yarn surface causes It is possible to further improve the deep dyeing ability by the synergistic effect of the three yarn forms unique to the entangled yarn.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a schematic cross-sectional view showing an example of a filament surface constituting a deep dyeing specially processed yarn of the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a schematic process drawing showing an example of a method for producing a deep dyeing specially processed yarn having loops and slack of the present invention.

[Explanation of symbols]

 Y Undrawn yarn 1 Supply roller 2 Heater 3 Fluid swirling nozzle 4 First take-up roller 5 Second take-up roller 6 Fluid jet nozzle 7 Third take-up roller 8 Package

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Claims (2)

[Claims] 1. A polyester crimped yarn composed of filaments having an irregular shape or fine pores on the surface, having a birefringence (Δn) of 70 × 10 ⁻³ to 120 × 10 ⁻³ and an elongation. A deep dyeing specially processed yarn characterized by having a dark dyeing property of 20 to 50%, a crimping ratio of 20% or less, and a dyed L value of a fabric with a black dye of 11.5 or less. 2. The deep-dyeing property according to claim 1, wherein the surface of the yarn has loops and slack, and the deep-dyeing property is such that the L value of dyeing of the fabric with the black dye is 11.0 or less. Special processed yarn.