JPH0791713B2 - Slab-like spun yarn and knitted fabric with excellent coolness - Google Patents

Description

TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to a slab-like spun yarn and a knitted fabric that are excellent in coolness.

More specifically, it is a slab-like span with an excellent cooling feeling, which is brought about by skillfully combining at least two types of short fibers of large fineness, long cotton, and special cross section, and fineness and short cotton short fibers. The present invention relates to a yarn and a knitted fabric excellent in a refreshing feeling using the yarn, and according to the present invention, a slab-like span exhibiting good linen-like properties and typically having properties preferable as a material for summer clothing or a material for spring and autumn clothing. Threads and knitted fabrics are provided.

(Prior Art) Conventionally, in most cases, as a means for embodying a refreshing feeling in a knitted fabric, a strong yarn is used.
In addition, especially in the field of synthetic fibers, it has been attempted to give a refreshing feeling by using a yarn that is heat-fused during false twisting.

However, in the case of the former, these former techniques are mainly adopted for the use of spun yarn using raw cotton having particularly soft characteristics. It is unavoidable that it is disadvantageous in terms of sex. In the latter case, it is possible to express a sharp taste, but full-scale hemp (ramie)
There is no product with a sharpness, and it is unavoidable that the filament yarn is not natural because it is even, and if fusion is caused, a glossy feeling and water absorption will occur. The performance was remarkably deteriorated, and it was unavoidable that the performance was far from the feeling of hemp.

On the other hand, many spun yarns with various fiber cross-sections such as triangular type, Y type, H type, and hollow fiber have been proposed for the purpose of imparting a dry and crisp taste, but hemp is still used for the crisp taste. At present, there is no one that is excellent in overall characteristics such as water absorption function, texture, surface appearance (appearance), etc. There is also a problem that the yarn breakage increases, the yarn breakage increases, and the process passability in the post process is significantly reduced.This is also a factor that extremely deteriorates the yarn quality and product quality. Was absolutely impossible.

(Problems to be Solved by the Invention) In view of the above points, an object of the present invention is to provide an improvement effect not seen in the related art in expressing the function, texture and surface appearance of authentic hemp. It is intended to provide a slab-like spun yarn having an excellent refreshing feeling and a knitted fabric having the optimum characteristics as a clothing material excellent in a refreshing feeling using the yarn.

As described above, the present invention aims at a more authentic hemp-like in the field of synthetic fibers, but when the excellent performance of hemp is summarized according to the findings of the present inventors, a strong tension / waist, It is considered to be represented by good water absorption and water retention, good anti-pill property, clear wrinkles, and good surface appearance. To realize these performances in the field of synthetic fibers,
Nothing can be achieved without proper setting of the monofilaments that make up the spun yarn.

Speaking of water absorption in this, the propagation of water droplets is largely due to the capillarity phenomenon, and the size of the voids or gaps composed of scale units typified by natural water moss, that is, the conduit diameter in the capillary phenomenon. According to the knowledge of the present inventors, the corresponding length is on the order of about 10 μ. As a result of extensive studies based on such findings, it was found that it is effective to provide the short fibers themselves constituting the aggregate (yarn) of the synthetic fibers with slits corresponding to the above-mentioned conduits. It was On the other hand, regarding the stiffness specific to hemp, it has been conventionally known that it is generally effective to deform the cross-sectional shape of the fiber and increase the fineness of the fiber for the stiffness characteristics. There is. On the other hand, hemp is not only stiff, but also has a light touch and a soft texture at the same time. In addition to the irregular cross section / thick denier derived from the above-mentioned stiffness, hemp is made of fine denier short fibers. A combination is also required.

On the other hand, the slab feeling (unevenness) possessed by hemp is generally characterized by a long period and an extremely large and thin thickness. According to various studies conducted by the present inventors, a long period is a long fiber length, On the other hand, it is effective to construct a spun yarn by combining short and short fibers that are extremely thick and thin to express them.

(Means for Solving the Problems) The slab-like spun yarn of the present invention that achieves the above-mentioned object is
The fiber cross-sectional shape is substantially π-shaped, the single fiber fineness is 2 to 10 denier, and the flexural rigidity EI value is 2.3 to 5.0 dyne / c.
Polyester short fiber A with an average fiber length of 51 mm or more that is m ²
And two kinds of short fibers B having a single fiber fineness of 2 denier or less and an EI value of flexural rigidity of 0.3 to 2.0 dyne / cm ² and an average fiber length smaller than the average fiber length of A above. A refreshing sensation characterized by comprising at least the ratio (A) / (B) of the mixed fibers (weight ratio) of the short fibers A and B is (95-50) / (5-50). It is an excellent slab-like spun yarn.

Further, the knitted fabric of the present invention has an average fiber length in which the fiber cross-sectional shape is substantially π-shaped, the single fiber fineness is 2 to 10 denier and the bending rigidity EI value is 2.3 to 5.0 dyne / cm ^2. 51 mm or more polyester-based short fibers A and short fibers having a single fiber fineness of 2 denier or less, an EI value of bending rigidity of 0.3 to 2.0 dyne / cm ² , and an average fiber length smaller than the average fiber length of A above. B
And at least two short fibers of
The blending ratio (weight ratio) of A and B is (A) / (B) (95-5
A knitted or woven fabric in which a spun yarn of 0) / (5 to 50) is used in part or in whole, and the bulk height is 1.4 to 4.5 cm ³ /
It is a knitted fabric excellent in refreshing feeling, characterized by having g and anti-pill property of grade 3 or higher.

With respect to the spun yarn and knitted fabric having the above-described constitution of the present invention, preferred specific embodiments will be clarified in sequence according to the following description.

(Operation) Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.

In the spun yarn according to the present invention, the constituent fibers are a short fiber A having a large fineness and an average fiber length of 51 mm or more in a specific cross section, and a short fiber B having an average fine fiber fineness smaller than the average fiber length of the short fibers A. Of at least two kinds of short fibers
Has a monofilament fineness of 2 to 10 denier and a fiber cross-sectional shape of substantially a π-shaped irregular cross-section, and its bending rigidity has an EI value almost equal to that of hemp (about 3.0 dyne / cm). The first characteristic is that it has a value close to or higher than ² ), and this characteristic is extremely important from the viewpoint of expressing hemp-like strong tension and waist.

In the present invention, the EI value of the short fibers A must be 2.3 dyne / cm ² or more and 5.0 dyne / cm ² or less, and the value is 2.3 dyne / c.
If it is less than m ² , it is difficult to express hemp-like tension and waist as a thread, and if it exceeds 5.0 dyne / cm ² , the rigidity is extremely high and twisting is not stable during thread production In addition to the deterioration of the property, the texture becomes unnecessarily strong and the waist becomes unnecessarily strong. Such flexural rigidity characteristics can be obtained by making the denier of the short fibers A moderate and at the same time specializing the cross section into various shapes. According to the findings of the present inventors, water absorption and water retention are obtained. In order to realize well,
The cross section should be approximately π-shaped and the single fiber fineness should be 2
It is important to set the denier to 10 denier or less.

FIG. 1 shows a model of a cross-sectional shape of the short fiber A having a substantially π shape. The short fiber A indicated by 1 has a groove portion 2 corresponding to the above-mentioned capillary phenomenon conduit. There is something.

The groove distance 1 in the groove 2 influences water absorption / water retention performance, and according to the knowledge of the present inventors, 2 μ or more.
It is preferably 30 μm or less.

Further, the short fibers A are required to be polyester fibers in order to realize appropriate tension and waist.

It is important that the short fiber B has a small bending rigidity value, its EI value must be 0.3 dyne / cm ² or more and 2.0 dyne / cm ² or less, and the single fiber fineness is 2 denier or less. Must be Such short fibers B give a light and soft texture on the stiffness of the spun yarn of the present invention.

The cross-sectional shape of the short fiber B is not particularly limited as long as it satisfies the above bending rigidity characteristics, but it is generally a normal substantially circular cross-section fiber. The material of the short fibers B is not particularly limited, but it is generally a polyester fiber like the short fibers A.

Under the above constitution, the average fiber length of the short fibers A is further
It is necessary that the average fiber length is 51 mm or more and longer than the average fiber length of the short fibers B. Due to such a fiber length mixing effect, a slab feeling (unevenness) with a long period and a high thick and thin effect is obtained. It will be brought. According to the knowledge of the present inventors, the average fiber length of the short fibers B is preferably in the range of 38 mm or more and 76 mm or less in order to develop such an appropriate unevenness.

Regarding the above-described unevenness feeling, the spun yarn according to the present invention preferably has a yarn unevenness index I of 1.38 or more and 1.87 or less,
When the value is less than 1.38, the unevenness tends to be small, and the natural appearance effect tends to be poor. On the other hand, when the value is more than 1.87, the unevenness is too strong, which is not general.

Further, the weight ratio of the mixed fiber of the short fibers A and B is (A) /
(B) = (95 to 50) / (5 to 50) It is necessary to set it within the range, and when the ratio of short fibers B exceeds 50% of the total amount of A and B, the anti-pill property is greatly deteriorated. It tends to occur and is not preferable.

In the spun yarn of the present invention, in addition to the short fibers A and B, a semi-synthetic fiber or a regenerated fiber may be used as a part of the constituent fibers for the purpose of adding a sharp texture. By adopting such means, it is possible to finely adjust the feeling, and particularly when adding a crisp taste, it is preferable to use a part of cellulosic semi-synthetic fiber or regenerated fiber.

Depending on the case, if desired, natural fibers, typically hemp, may be mixed-spun in addition to the short fibers A and B.

The spun yarn of the present invention is knitted or woven into a knitted fabric by being used with 100% of the spun yarn or as a part of the spun yarn, that is, mixed with other yarns.

The thus obtained knitted fabric according to the present invention has an excellent feeling of refreshing feeling, and by utilizing the characteristics of the synthetic fiber, the height of gravity can exhibit a wide range of 1.4 to 4.5 cm ³ / g as desired. On the other hand, in general hemp occupants have a bulk height of 1.7 to 2.5 cm ³ / g at most, and the knitted fabric of the present invention has a hemp-like feeling in full scale. It has high commercial value as it can realize a product with a high bulkiness that cannot be obtained from natural hemp products. Further, the knitted fabric according to the present invention has excellent anti-pill property, and the anti-pill property according to the ICI method shows grade 3 or higher, and realizes an extremely excellent knitted fabric having an unprecedented cool feeling. There is something.

Further, in the production of the yarn or knitted fabric of the present invention, various means may be used as a means for emphasizing these characteristics so as to more closely resemble the glossiness or the smoothness of the surface of hemp. It goes without saying that, for example, fibers or knitted fabrics may be subjected to a pressure treatment with a pressure roller or the like. Further, in this case, a hot roll may be used, or a hot plate may be preliminarily preheated and then processed. In addition, alkali treatment, chemical treatment, plasma etching treatment or the like may be performed.

In addition, the effect of the present invention can be sufficiently exerted even when the cloth is used as a cloth based on a yarn in combination with various filament yarns, a woven cloth, or the like.

The EI value of flexural rigidity referred to in the present invention is defined as follows.

That is, the primary resonance number (V _r ) and density (ρ), cross-sectional area (A), and test length (l) of the staple measured by the vibration lead method.
Is calculated from the following equation.

Flexural rigidity EI = 3.19 × ρ × A × V _r ² × l ⁴ (dyne / cm ² ) The vibration lead method is, for example, the method described in “Textile Physics” (1962) p.252, published by Maruzen Co., Ltd. .

In the present invention, random tests such as the fiber cross-section direction are performed, and n
This is the average of 20 times of data collection.

The yarn unevenness index I is a value defined by the following formula.

I = Ua / Ui where: However, Ui: Theoretical u% (%) n: The number of constituent fibers of the spun yarn (pieces) Ua: Actually measured u% (%) (the unevenness per yarn length of 125 m measured by a yarn enable tester) It is the volume per unit weight, and the higher the value, the higher the bulkiness. The thickness when calculating the volume, in the case of knitted 7 g / cm ^2, in the case of fabrics 240 g / cm ²
It is measured using the value after applying the pressure of 10 seconds for 10 seconds.

The anti-pill property is based on the ICI method, and the test time is 5 hours for a knitted fabric and 10 hours for a woven fabric.

(Example) Example 1 3d made of polyethylene terephthalate (PET) as the short fiber A, the cross-sectional shape is almost π-shaped (distance between grooves 1 = 11.3μ) as shown in Fig. 1, and the fiber length is 76 mm. 90% by weight of the scare-cut staples, and 10% by weight of the scare-cut staples having a fiber length of 38 mm and a round cross section of 1d made of polyethylene terephthalate as the short fibers B are blended to form the British cotton. A spun yarn of the present invention having a count of 30S and a twist coefficient K = 3.2 was spun. The twist coefficient K here is It is a more determined value, T is the number of twists per inch, and Ne is English cotton count.

Under the above structure, regarding the flexural rigidity characteristics of each single fiber, the EI value of the short fiber A is 3.20 dyne / cm ² , and the EI value of the short fiber B is
It is 1.12 dyne / cm ² .

The spun yarn was knitted into a 20G tenjiku knit and the knitted fabric performance was evaluated. In addition, the 3d round cross-section made of polyethylene terephthalate, the same knitted fabric using 100% of 76 mm scare cut staples and the similar knitted fabric using 100% hemp (ramie) yarn were also made for comparison. Listed in the table.

The yarn unevenness index I coefficient is 1.
52, the comparative product was PET yarn with 1.34, and the hemp yarn (ramie yarn) was 1.59. It is recognized that the spun yarn of the present invention is similar in appearance to the hemp yarn.

As can be seen from Table 1, according to the present invention, 100% synthetic fiber is used to obtain product characteristics that closely resemble a knitted fabric using 100% hemp yarn, and the texture is similar to that of hemp and has a moderate crispness. It had a soft feeling and was bulky.

Example 2 4d made of polyethylene terephthalate as the short fiber A
The cross-sectional shape is approximately π-shaped (distance between grooves 1 = 10.4μ) as shown in Fig. 1 and 85% by weight of a scare cut tape having a fiber length of 76 mm, while short fiber B is made of polyethylene terephthalate. N of 100% synthetic fiber with 15d% by weight of scare cut staple with 44mm fiber length and 1.5d round cross section
A spun yarn of the present invention (invention yarn 1) having m = 1/48 (Nm: metric number) and twist coefficient K = 100 was produced. The twist coefficient K here is It is a value that is more determined, T is the number of twists per inch, and Nm is the metric number. The EI value of short fiber A is 3.85 dyne.
/ cm ^2, EI values of the short fibers B is 1.23dyne / cm ^2.

Further, using the sliver made when spinning the yarn 1 of the present invention, hemp is further mixed and spun to obtain a short fiber A / short fiber B / hemp = 65% / 12% / 23% weight ratio of 3 A mixed-spun yarn (Yarn 2 of the present invention) was prepared. This thread also has a Nm of 1/48 and a twist coefficient K of 10
It is 0.

In addition, the yarn unevenness index is 1.5 for the yarn 1 of the present invention having 100% PET.
7, PET / Hemp blend of Invention 2 was 1.59.

Two kinds of fabrics were woven by using the two kinds of yarns thus obtained, respectively. The raw machine density was 65 × 74 / inch. When the fabric is dyed and finished, both have the excellent tension and waist of the linen (ramie), and the surface appearance,
A product was obtained that was similar in luster to hemp.

The results of evaluation of product performance are shown in Table 2.

In Examples 1 and 2 above, the water absorption height means a sample cloth cut from the cloth to be measured with a width of 1 cm, and the other end of the sample cloth is dipped in the stored water at the bottom to make the sample cloth 10 It is a measurement of the height of water sucked up in a minute.

(Effects of the Invention) According to the present invention as described above, although it is mainly composed of synthetic fibers, there is a significant improvement effect in expressing the function, texture and surface appearance of authentic hemp. It is possible to obtain a slab-like spun yarn having an excellent refreshing feeling and a knitted fabric having the optimum characteristics as a clothing material having an excellent refreshing feeling using the yarn.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 shows an example of a cross-sectional shape of a substantially π-shaped short fiber A used in the present invention as a model. 1: Short fiber A 2: Groove l: Groove distance

Claims (11)

[Claims] 1. A fiber cross-sectional shape is substantially π-shaped, a single fiber fineness is 2 to 10 denier, and a flexural rigidity EI value is 2.
Polyester staple fibers A having an average fiber length of 51 mm or more, which is 3 to 5.0 dyne / cm ² , and single fiber fineness of 2 denier or less and an EI value of bending rigidity of 0.3 to 2.0 dyne / cm ² , and an average fiber length Contains at least two kinds of short fibers B, which are shorter than the average fiber length of A, and the mixed spinning ratio (weight ratio) ratio (A) / (B) of the short fibers A and B is ( 95-50) / (5
~ 50) Slab-like spun yarn with excellent coolness. 2. The slab-like spun yarn excellent in refreshing feeling according to claim (1), characterized in that the fiber cross-sectional shape of the short fibers B is substantially round. 3. A slab-like spun yarn having an excellent refreshing feeling according to claim (1) or (2), characterized in that the short fibers B are polyester type short fibers. 4. The excellent refreshing feeling according to claim (1), (2) or (3), characterized in that the short fiber B has an average fiber length of 38 to 76 mm. Slab-like spun yarn. 5. The yarn unevenness index I is 1.38 to 1.87, as set forth in claim (1), (2), (3) or (4). Slab-like spun yarn with an excellent refreshing feel. 6. The short fiber A having a substantially π-shaped fiber cross-sectional shape has a groove portion distance of 2 to 30 μ in the fiber cross-sectional shape. A slab-like spun yarn having an excellent cooling sensation according to item 2), item (3), item (4) or item (5). 7. The spun yarn partially contains semi-synthetic fibers or recycled fibers in addition to the short fibers A and B, and the spun yarn comprises the first (1) and the second (2). , (3)
A slab-like spun yarn having an excellent cooling sensation according to item (4), (5) or (6). 8. A slab-like spun yarn having an excellent cooling sensation according to claim (7), characterized in that the semi-synthetic fiber or the regenerated fiber is a cellulosic fiber. 9. The fiber cross section is substantially π-shaped, the single fiber fineness is 2 to 10 denier, and the flexural rigidity EI value is 2.
Polyester staple fibers A having an average fiber length of 51 mm or more, which is 3 to 5.0 dyne / cm ² , and single fiber fineness of 2 denier or less and an EI value of bending rigidity of 0.3 to 2.0 dyne / cm ² , and an average fiber length Contains at least two kinds of short fibers B, which are shorter than the average fiber length of A, and the mixing ratio (weight ratio) ratio (A) / (B) of the short fibers A and B is (95 ~ 50) / (5-5
A knitted or woven fabric in which the spun yarn of 0) is used in part or in whole, and which has a bulkiness of 1.4 to 4.5 cm ³ / g and an anti-pill property of grade 3 or higher for a refreshing feeling. Excellent knitted fabric. 10. The knitted woven fabric excellent in refreshing feeling according to claim (9), characterized in that the fiber cross-sectional shape of the short fibers B is substantially round. 11. A knitted fabric excellent in refreshing feeling according to claim (9) or (10), characterized in that the short fibers B are polyester type short fibers.