JPH07316945A - Fabric with excellent geometric stability - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain the subject soft fabric with small tear strength drop by using combined yarns containing cellulose-based fibers. CONSTITUTION:Firstly, a fiber bundle of sheath-core structure with high-strength polyester filaments >=5.0g/de in tenacity as the core and cotton fiber rovings as the sheath and another fiber bundle of 100% cotton fibers are arranged in parallel in a weight ratio of the former to the latter of 40-10wt.%/60-90wt.% and subjected to real twist so as to mutually entwine to make a combined yarn. A plain fabric obtained by weaving these combined yarns as both wefts and warps is subjected to singeing, size discharge scouring, bleaching, and dyeing finish, and then sewn into a shirt product. Next, the shirt product is set in a vapor phase reaction vessel and then sprayed with formalin together with steam and subjected to steaming to remove the formalin to effect crosslinking among the cellulose moleccules, thus obtaining the shirt product geometric stability having a wash-and-wear grade of >=3.5 and a tear strength of >=700g.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention uses a composite yarn comprising a fiber bundle having a high-strength filament in a core and a cellulosic fiber in a sheath, and a fiber bundle consisting of only cellulosic fiber. The present invention relates to a cloth excellent in hygroscopicity, soft texture, and excellent in shape stability.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art In recent years, a shirt that has a wrinkle-free and ironing-free cloth even if it is made of a yarn containing about half a cotton fiber has become popular. There are two methods as the processing mechanism.

One method is to apply a shape-stabilizing resin processing to a cloth processed with liquid ammonia, and after the sewing, 140 to
This is a method of causing a resin to react by applying heat treatment at 170 ° C. to cause shape memory. Another method is to blow a mixed gas containing formalin as a main component to the sewn shirt to cross-link the cellulosic fibers so that the shape of the shirt is memorized.

By the way, according to the former method, the fabric is
Since the fabric is resin-processed, the texture becomes hard and there is a problem in terms of the feel of the skin, the water absorbency when sweating is poor, and the drying property is also a problem, leaving a large problem in practicality. There is.

Further, according to the latter method, although the cloth is superior in performance and practicality to the cloth processed by the former method, the cellulose-based fiber is formed by cross-linking the cellulose-based fiber. The fabric becomes brittle and the tear strength of the fabric is unavoidably reduced, and there is a problem in developing a high mixing ratio of the cellulosic fibers.

Therefore, it is conceivable to use a so-called core yarn in which filaments are arranged in the innermost layer and short fibers are arranged in the outer layer in order to prevent a decrease in tear strength of the fabric. However, the core yarn has poor yarn evenness, insufficient coverage of filaments with short fibers, and has a drawback that the sheath easily slips out in terms of abrasion resistance, and thus has fatal drawbacks in terms of coverage and yarn performance. is doing.

It is also conceivable that a multifilament yarn is electrically opened to form a fabric excellent in morphological stability by using a composite yarn compounded with staples, but the yarn uniformity and abrasion resistance are improved, There is a problem in terms of coatability.

[0008]

As described above, a fabric composed of yarns in which a cellulosic fiber is used at a high mixing ratio is sufficiently covered with filaments, which are long-fiber yarns, without lowering the tear strength, and a fabric excellent in morphological stability. Is not yet manufactured.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION An object of the present invention is to provide a fabric made of a yarn in which a cellulosic fiber is used at a high mixing ratio, which does not decrease in tear strength and is excellent in morphological stability.

[0009]

The present invention adopts the following means in order to solve the above problems. That is, the present invention is
A filament bundle (A) having a core-sheath structure in which a filament is arranged in a core and a cellulosic fiber is arranged in a sheath, and a fiber bundle (B) consisting only of a cellulosic fiber are actually twisted so as to be wound around each other. And a filament having a strength of 5.0 g / d or more and a weight% ratio of the cellulosic fiber and the filament of 60 to 90% by weight / 40 to 10% by weight. A cloth excellent in morphological stability, characterized in that the cloth has a wash and wear property (hereinafter referred to as "W & W property") of 3.5 grade or more and a tear strength of 700 g or more (claim 1).

Further, the present invention is excellent in morphological stability according to claim 1, wherein the cloth is a cloth after being sewn, and formalin is sprayed on the cloth in a vapor phase state to crosslink the cellulose molecules. It is a cloth (claim 2).

The present invention will be described in detail below with reference to the drawings. It should be noted that the drawings are for the purpose of explanation only, and the present invention is not limited thereto. In FIG. 1, the fiber bundle A has a filament F in the core, and short fibers SA of cellulosic fibers are arranged around it, while the fiber bundle B is composed of short fibers SB of cellulosic fibers.

Here, the filament strength is 5.0 g / d or more, preferably 5.5 g / d or more. If the filament strength is less than 5.0 g / d, the cellulosic fiber deteriorates when the formalin is sprayed onto the cellulosic fiber in the gas phase in the gas phase to cross-link the product after the fabric is formed, and the tear strength of the fabric remarkably decreases. In addition, the wash and wear property is less than 3.5, which is not preferable. The number of filaments F may be one or may be two or more.

Examples of the material of the filament include synthetic fibers such as polyester, polyamide, polyacryl and the like, as well as semi-synthetic fibers such as promix, which are generally used for clothing. From the viewpoint of yarn strength, polyester,
Polyamide is preferred.

On the other hand, cellulosic short fibers SA, S
Examples of B include cotton, polynosic, rayon, hemp and the like, or a mixed spun fiber thereof, and the short fibers SA and SB are preferably the same but may be different. For example, it is conceivable to use cotton for the short fibers SA and use polynosic for the short fibers SB.

The cellulosic fibers in the composite yarn must be 60% by weight to 90% by weight. This is because the cellulosic fibers are made to have a high mixing ratio and the effect of the present invention is exhibited. When it is less than 60% by weight, hygroscopicity and soft feeling are deteriorated, which is not preferable, and when it exceeds 90% by weight, tear strength is increased. Is lowered, which is not preferable.

Further, the weight% ratio A of the fiber bundle A and the fiber bundle B is
/ B is preferably 0.4 to 2.3. When it is less than 0.4, it becomes difficult to stably coat the filament with the short fibers, while when it exceeds 2.3, the operability is remarkably lowered, which is not preferable.

The twist coefficient K of the actual twist applied in the same direction as the twist direction of the fiber bundle A and the fiber bundle B is 2.
0 to 8.0, and more preferably 2.2 to 7.0 are preferable for obtaining the unique texture of the cellulosic fibers. Here, the twist coefficient K is represented by T = K · Ne1 / 2. T is the number of twists (t / in), and Ne is an English cotton count.

Further, the tear strength of the fabric must be 700 g or more. This is because of consideration of stickiness, durability, and practicality.

Further, the wash and wear property of the cloth must be 3.5 or higher. This is because if it is less than 3.5, the morphological stability becomes poor.

Furthermore, spraying formalin in a vapor phase onto the sewn fabric is achieved by chemically bonding the cellulose molecules together as if they were bridging in places, thereby eliminating migration of the cellulose molecules and breakage of the fibers. This is to prevent the generation of wrinkles.

The occurrence of wrinkles in the cloth after washing is considered to be due to the following phenomenon. That is, cotton fibers and the like are made up of microfibers with a diameter of 1 / 100,000 mm, and such microfibers are made up of macromolecules called cellulose. Has a low density and remains amorphous, and when the cotton fiber absorbs water or releases water and dries, the cellulose molecules in the amorphous part gradually become clogged and become dense. It is thought that wrinkles are generated because the cotton fibers are weak and easily bent, and the cotton fibers are unevenly shortened by these causes. Therefore, weaving (knitting) using a composite yarn containing cellulosic fibers,
After dyeing and sewing, formalin is sprayed in the vapor phase onto the cellulosic fiber cloth to crosslink it, whereby a cloth excellent in shape stability can be obtained.

Next, the manufacturing method will be described. In FIG. 2, two rovings a are attached to the back roller 1 of the ring spinning machine,
When b is supplied at the same time and the distance from the center of the roving a to the center of the roving b is D, D in the range of 3 mm ≦ D ≦ 12 mm is adopted. When the distance D is less than 3 mm, the thread strength is
Abrasion resistance decreases, and more fluffing occurs, and yarn uniformity decreases. Further, if D exceeds 12 mm, the operability is remarkably reduced, which is not preferable. Then, the two rovings a, b are drafted in a predetermined manner and supplied to the front roller 2. At this time, the filament yarn F is drafted while applying tension to the guides 4 and 5. Supply in the middle of a. The fiber bundles A and B having the front roller 2 are twisted with a twist coefficient K.
The actual twist of (2.0 ≦ K ≦ 8.0) is applied, and the wire is wound around the bobbin 8 through the snell wire 7. 3 is a second roller.

[0023]

【Example】

Example 1 A multifilament yarn made of polyethylene terephthalate as a filament (40d / 15f, strength 6.5)
g / d), a roving a of cotton fiber mainly composed of rice cotton (50 gellen / 15 yds) is used as a roving a, and a similar cotton fiber roving (50 gelen / 15 yds) is used as a roving b. The weight ratio of fiber to filament is 70% by weight / 30% by weight
Composite yarn 40's (English cotton count) was manufactured.

At this time, the distance between the fiber bundle A and the fiber bundle B is 6
The multifilament yarn was superposed on the center of the fleece of the roving yarn a drafted upstream of the front roller 2 and was actually twisted at a twist coefficient of 3.7 to produce the composite yarn. The obtained composite yarn was composed of a fiber bundle having a core-sheath structure in which a filament was present in the core and a cotton fiber was present in the sheath, and a fiber bundle consisting of only cotton fibers, and was excellent in yarn evenness and had little fluff. .

Next, plain weave (density: warp 110 yarns / in, weft 74 yarns / i) was carried out using the composite yarn by an air jet loom
n) was woven. Then, it was sewn into a shirt product after being subjected to the steps of firing, desizing, scouring, bleaching and dyeing. afterwards,
25 kg of the product was set in a gas phase reaction treatment tank, and
% Formalin aqueous solution (21 kg) is uniformly atomized together with steam, and 400 g of SO2 gas is then injected at a gauge pressure of 1 k.
It was injected at a pressure of g / m ² . Further, low pressure steaming treatment was carried out for 10 seconds. After treating at the same temperature for 25 minutes, high-pressure steam of 3.5 kg / m ² was blown for 6 minutes, and then a small amount of ammonia water was injected together with steam, and further low-pressure steaming treatment was performed for 4 minutes to remove formalin. . The yarn characteristics and product characteristics are shown in Table 1.

[0026]

[Table 1]

Comparative Example 1 A composite yarn was prepared in the same manner as in Example 1 except that a multifilament (40d / 15f) made of polyethylene terephthalate having a filament strength of 4.8 g / d was used instead of the multifilament in Example 1. And the shirt product was processed in the same manner as in Example 1. The results are shown in Table 1.

Comparative Example 2 A core yarn 40's (twisting factor 3.7) having a polyester multifilament (40d / 15f, strength 6.5g / d) as a core and cotton fibers mainly made of rice cotton arranged in a sheath was produced. . Then, weaving, dyeing, and sewing were performed in the same manner as in Example 1, and the product was subjected to weaving, dyeing, and sewing in the same manner as in Example 1, and then formalin was sprayed in a vapor phase state to crosslink. The results are also shown in Table 1.

Comparative Example 3 Polyester short fiber (1.0 d × 38 mm, strength 4.0)
g / d) and cotton fibers mainly composed of rice cotton were mixed at a mixing ratio of 30/70 to produce spun yarn 40 ′S (twist coefficient 3.7). Then, weaving, dyeing and sewing were carried out in the same manner as in Example 1, and formalin was blown to this product in a vapor phase state to crosslink. The results at this time are shown in Table 1.

The measuring method of each characteristic in Table 1 is as follows. I. Filament strength (g / d)

B. Single yarn tenacity (g) Tensor rapid (constant speed elongation type tensile tester, manufactured by Zellwegauster), sample length 50 cm, tensile speed 30c
It was measured at m / min.

C. Yarn uniformity (u%) An Ivenestester uTIII type (manufactured by Zellwegauster) was used, and a condition of 1 minute at a yarn speed of 400 m / min was adopted.

D. Number of fluff (Co / 10 m) The number of fluff (1 mm or more) was measured by an F index tester (manufactured by Shikishima Spinning Co., Ltd.).

E. Abrasion resistance (coupling force test) A circular drum with a titanium surface having a diameter of 20 cm is rotated at 80 times / min, one end of the yarn is fixed and a load of 70 g is applied to the other end to make contact with this drum. The number of revolutions at which the fibers were separated represents the degree of abrasion resistance.

F. Tensile strength (kgf) Width 10c according to JIS-L-1096 grab method
m, length of 15 cm test piece, 3 pieces each horizontal,
Gripping interval is 7.62 cm, the size of the grip is 2.54 x 2.54 cm on the front side and 5.1 x 2.5 on the back side.
The strength at the time of cutting was represented by an average value of n = 3 at a tensile speed of 30 cm per minute.

G. Tear strength (kgf) According to the pendulum method of JIS-L-1096,
The test piece of 6.3 × 10 cm is made up vertically, and each of the three pieces is sampled,
At the center of both grips of the test piece, a 2 cm cut was made with a sharp blade at approximately the center of the long side, at a right angle to the side, and the remaining 4.3
The load indicated when the cm was torn was shown.

H. W & W property (class) According to JIS A-1096 method A (method using a stirring type washing machine), three 40 cm x 40 cm test pieces are taken vertically and three pieces are taken in parallel to the horizontal direction, and tumble drying is performed as a drying method. Adopted, three test pieces were evaluated by three observers according to the JIS standard wrinkle judgment standard (Table 11), and the average of nine judgment values was shown.

Re. The quality, texture (staple touch), and unevenness of the surface after 20 washes were evaluated by a sensory test by 7 persons. Very good was indicated by ⊚, good was indicated by ○, and ordinary was indicated by Δ.

Nu. Abrasion resistance (pilling grade) This is represented by an ICI pilling tester (10 hr), and the higher the pilling resistance, the larger the value.

Le. Coverability Only a cellulosic fiber was directly dyed with a dye (0.3% concentration) and evaluated by a sensory test by 7 people. Very good was indicated by ⊚, good was indicated by ◯, and ordinary was indicated by Δ.

As is clear from Table 1, Example 1 has excellent yarn characteristic values, good W & W property in product characteristic values, high tear strength, and excellent staple quality after 20 washings. It was a texture. Comparative Example 1
The yarn properties, W & W property, and quality after 20 times of washing were excellent, but the tear strength was low. Comparative Example 2 was good in W & W property and tear strength, but was inferior in yarn characteristic value, and was inferior in practical use and poor in quality after 20 times of washing, and there was a problem in practical use. In Comparative Example 3, the tear strength was too low, leaving a big problem in terms of performance.

[0042]

INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY According to the present invention, even a fabric using a composite yarn containing a cellulosic fiber at a high mixing ratio does not have a reduction in tear strength, has a soft feel of staple touch, is highly hygroscopic, and is excellent in morphological stability. It has a remarkable effect of providing a cloth.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a perspective view of a composite yarn according to the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a perspective view of a composite yarn manufacturing apparatus according to the present invention.

[Explanation of symbols]

 A fiber bundle B fiber bundle SA short fiber SB short fiber a, b coarse yarn 1 back roller 2 front roller 3 second roller F filament yarn

Claims (2)

[Claims] 1. A real twist such that a fiber bundle (A) having a core-sheath structure in which a filament is a core and a cellulosic fiber is arranged in a sheath and a fiber bundle (B) consisting only of a cellulosic fiber are wound around each other. A fabric made of a composite yarn formed by being woven, wherein the filament has a strength of 5.0 g / d or more, and a weight% ratio of the cellulosic fiber and the filament is 60 to 90% by weight / 40 to 40%. A fabric excellent in morphological stability, which is 10% by weight, has a wash and wear property of 3.5 grade or more and a tear strength of 700 g or more. 2. The fabric excellent in morphological stability according to claim 1, wherein the fabric is a sewn fabric, and formalin is sprayed on the fabric in a gas phase state to crosslink the cellulose molecules.