JPH07197387A - Base cloth for polyester lace - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain base cloth made of specific alkali-soluble polyester yarn which satisfies specific criteria at the same time and can substitute a water-soluble polyvinyl alcohol-based yarn, and capable of producing a high-quality chemical lace at a low cost. CONSTITUTION:This base cloth is produced of warp and weft yarns both of which are polyester yarn containing an ethylene terephthalate unit as the main recurring unit and obtained by copolymerizing with sulfoisophthalic acid, a polyoxyethylene glycol and a polyethylene glycol. The polyester yarn satisfies the following criteria at the same time. (a) Alkali-weight-reducing speed is that alkali-weight-reducing at 10% sodium hydroxide at 95 deg.C is completed within 60min. (b) Elongation by JIS general woven fabric testing method 1096-1099 is <=10%. (c) Density ratio of weft/warp is 0.6-1.2 and when measured by the above JIS standard method, slipping resistance (B method) is <45mm in the sum of weft and warp. A chemical lace is produced at a low cost by replacing water-soluble polyvinyl alcohol based yarn with the polyester yarn. The polyester yarn is applicable on WJL (water jet loom) and the designing of the base cloth can be performed freely.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a polyester type chemical lace base cloth which can provide a cheap and excellent quality lace in place of the conventional chemical base cloth made of water-soluble vinylon. .

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, water-soluble vinylon has been used for all chemical lace base fabrics, and it is no exaggeration to say that the chemical lace technology has been developed due to the presence of water-soluble vinylon. However, since water-soluble vinylon has a high yarn-making cost and high hygroscopicity, it requires a special temperature control room management in the weaving process and the lace embroidery process, which is extremely complicated and difficult to manage. In addition, the water jet loom, which is said to have the highest productivity at present, cannot be used because of its nature of being water-soluble, and it is unavoidable to rely on a weaving method with low productivity. Furthermore, even though it is a water-soluble vinylon, it needs to be removed with a large amount of hot water, which requires a large amount of utility, and also requires a special device for the dissolution process for that, and the manufacturing cost of the chemical lace base fabric is low. There is no choice but to raise it. On the other hand, as a polymer that can be easily dissolved, such as water-soluble vinylon, there is an alkali-soluble polymer. Alkali-soluble polymers have been known for a long time, and polyethylene terephthalate obtained by copolymerizing sulfoisophthalic acid and its derivative, polyethylene glycol and the like is often used as the alkali-soluble polymer. In particular, the polymer is used as a dissolving segment of a dissolution splitting type conjugate fiber, and those conjugate fibers are disclosed in JP-A-54-6965 and JP-A-56-94.
42, Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 1-162813, and the like. It has also been proposed to use an alkali-soluble polymer alone, for example, JP-A-64-2.
No. 6747 discloses "A mixed filament yarn composed of a polyester filament and a silk filament cocoon yarn, which is a composite fiber or a composite yarn of a polyester that is easily dissolved and a polyester that is not easily dissolved under silk refining conditions. Is proposed. Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 55-90673 discloses "A fabric containing two or more kinds of polyester fibers having different alkali weight loss rates is printed with an alkali-containing desiccating paste so that polyester fibers having a high alkali weight loss rate can be eaten out. It is described as ".

As described above, there are many proposals using an easily soluble alkali polymer, but since a single yarn having both an alkali dissolution rate and a yarn strength cannot be produced, only a mixed yarn with a core-sheath structure or a regular yarn is available. Cannot be used,
In each case, a part of the fiber or cloth is left. As in the present invention, no proposal has hitherto been made to completely dissolve and remove the cloth by using the alkali easily soluble polymer single yarn as the warp yarn and the weft yarn as the base fabric for chemical lace.

[0004]

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION It is an object of the present invention to eliminate the above-mentioned drawbacks of water-soluble vinylon, and the present inventors have proposed a chemical lace method using an alkali-soluble polymer instead of water-soluble vinylon. As a result of studying the production of a base fabric, the present invention has been accomplished. That is, the feature of the chemical lace base fabric of the present invention is a fabric in which the alkali easily soluble polymer alone yarn is used for the vertical yarn and the horizontal yarn instead of the water-soluble vinylon, and the low density is applied after the lace embroidery is applied. It is easy to remove with an alkali. Among polymers, polyester has a lower manufacturing cost than water-soluble vinylon, is easy to control in the processing process, and can be woven in a water jet loom with high productivity of fabrics, and does not require a special device for the melting process. It has the feature that it can be post-processed in a general dyeing factory.

An object of the present invention is to provide a chemical lace which is inexpensive and excellent in quality by using a base cloth made of an alkali-soluble polyester as a substitute for the base cloth made of water-soluble vinylon.

[0006]

That is, the present invention has an ethylene terephthalate unit as a main repeating unit,
A woven fabric made of a polyester yarn obtained by copolymerizing a sulfonate group-containing compound, comprising the following (a) to (c):
The polyester-based chemical lace base fabric is characterized by satisfying both of

(A) The woven fabric has a sodium hydroxide concentration of 10
It should have a weight loss rate such that it can be completely dissolved and removed in less than 60 minutes under the conditions of alkali weight loss of g / liter and a liquid temperature of 95 ° C. (B) JIS general textile test method L-1096-1990
In the tensile strength and elongation test A method (strip method) specified in 1., in the stress-elongation curve in the weft direction, the elongation at 5 kgf per 5 cm width of the test piece is 10% or less. (C) Weft yarn density / warp yarn density is in the range of 0.6 to 1.2, and JIS general fabric test method L-1096-199.
The sliding resistance specified by 0 is less than 45 mm in the sum of the vertical direction and the horizontal direction as measured by the seam sliding method B method.

The polyester chemical lace base fabric of the present invention will be described in detail. The greatest feature of the polyester-based chemical lace base fabric of the present invention is that the base fabric is completely dissolved and removed under alkali weight loss conditions that do not reduce the strength of the embroidery thread and tulle. Most of the embroidery threads and tulle materials used for chemical lace are cotton, polyester, and rayon. Among these materials, it is well known that cotton retains its strength against alkali, as it is mercerized, and it is not affected by normal alkali weight loss conditions. On the other hand, materials susceptible to alkali are polyester and rayon. It is well known that the alkali weight reduction processing of polyester fabric utilizes the property that polyester is easily hydrolyzed in an alkaline aqueous solution, and that rayon is a material weak against alkali. In the present invention, a chemical lace base cloth (hereinafter simply referred to as a base cloth or a woven fabric) is completely dissolved and removed under an alkaline weight-reducing condition which does not cause a decrease in strength of not only cotton but also polyester or rayon embroidery threads and tulle. In some cases).

The condition of the base cloth which is completely dissolved and removed without deteriorating the strength of the embroidery thread and the tulle of polyester or rayon material as well as cotton is that the concentration of sodium hydroxide is 10 g / liter and the temperature of the alkali is 95 ° C. In the weight loss condition, it has a weight loss rate of completely dissolving and removing in less than 60 minutes. In the chemical lace manufacturing method in which the base cloth is dissolved and removed with an alkaline aqueous solution and only the embroidery thread or the embroidery thread and tulle are left, it is not significant if the alkali weight reduction rate of the polymer or fiber of the base cloth material is fast. The weight loss rate at which the substance is completely dissolved and removed is important. That is, in order to dissolve and remove the base cloth without reducing the strength of the embroidery thread and tulle, the base cloth itself is completely dissolved in less than 60 minutes under the condition of sodium hydroxide concentration of 10 g / liter and the liquid temperature of 95 ° C. under the alkali weight reducing condition. You must have a weight loss rate that is eliminated. If the weight reduction rate of the base fabric is slower than this condition, the strength of the embroidery thread and tulle will be reduced, and it will not be practical. This condition is a condition for practical use, and the faster the weight reduction rate is, the better.
It is desirable to completely dissolve and remove in less than 30 minutes under the above alkaline conditions.

A sodium hydroxide concentration of 10 g / liter and a liquid temperature of 95, which defines the weight reduction rate of the base cloth in the present invention, are defined.
The alkali weight reduction condition of less than 60 minutes at 0 ° C. does not mean that the weight reduction processing of the base fabric of the present invention can be performed only under this alkali weight reduction condition, but the alkali weight reduction rate of the base fabric is not limited to that of the alkali solubility constant or regular polyester. Since it cannot be expressed in terms of doubling, it is intentionally specified under the specific alkali weight loss condition. Therefore, the actual alkali weight-reducing conditions in the base fabric of the present invention are not restricted by the type of alkali, bath temperature, etc., and the alkali is not limited to sodium hydroxide, and sodium carbonate is used. However, there is no restriction on the alkali concentration, bath temperature, etc. However, if the alkali is too weak or the temperature is low, the dissolution time of the base fabric becomes too long, while if it is too strong or the temperature is too high, the dissolution time of the base fabric is too short, which makes stable operation difficult, which is not preferable.

When sodium hydroxide is used as the optimum alkali weight loss condition for the base fabric of the present invention, the concentration is 1 to
20 g / l is suitable. When sodium carbonate is used, a suitable concentration is 50 to 200 g / liter. The bath temperature and the weight reduction time can be appropriately determined in consideration of the alkali concentration. The determination as to whether or not the base cloth has been completely dissolved and removed is carried out because the polyester, which is the material of the base cloth, contains a sulfonate group-containing compound as a copolymerization component. stock)
It can be determined by dyeing with Kayastein Q). It can be distinguished from the fact that it can be dyed in a dark brown color like a normal pressure type cationic diable fiber when dyed according to the recommended prescription of the commercial product fiber indicator "Kayastin Q", and whether the chemical lace base fabric could be dissolved or not. Can be determined. If cationic diable polyester is used as the embroidery thread, the change in weight and the microscopic observation can be used together to make a distinction.

Next, JIS general woven fabric test method L-1096
-1990, Tensile Strength and Elongation Test A
In the stress-elongation curve obtained by measuring in the weft direction by the strip method (strip method), 5 kgf per 5 cm width of the test piece
At this time, the elongation rate needs to be 10% or less.
Since the base cloth is laid in the width direction on the embroidery machine, the strength and elongation physical properties in the weft direction are important, and the physical properties of the base cloth in the weft direction can be considered as representative values of the base cloth. On the embroidery machine, the base cloth is fixed with a tension of about 50 to 70 kg / m and the sewing machine is embroidered. Since the tulle (net-like knitted fabric) layered on the upholstered base cloth should not cause misalignment due to embroidery and the delicate embroidery pattern should not be deformed, the stress-elongation of the chemical lace base cloth Characteristics become important. As a result of intensive studies on this point, it was found that the stress at the primary yield point is extremely important in the stress-elongation curve of the base fabric. Especially, the lateral stress of the base cloth is 5 cm in width.
When the elongation at a rate of 5 kgf exceeds 10%, the embroidering thread sewing stress is applied to the base fabric, and the base fabric does not serve to protect the tulle from the tension of the foundation, and the tulle is stretched to the tulle's eyes. The quality of the chemical lace is remarkably impaired, such as the occurrence of misalignment and the stretch of the base cloth resulting in reduced embroidery bulge and poor texture. on the other hand,
The basis weight of the base fabric exceeds 55 g / m ² and 5 kg per 5 cm
If the base fabric is dense, highly compact, and difficult to stretch when the stress of f is less than 2%, the load on the needle driving will be large and the needle will be worn out severely and the embroidery thread breakage will occur. The elongation rate is preferably in the range of 2 to 10% because it easily occurs and the weight of the base cloth (weight per unit area) becomes too large, resulting in a large loss as a material to be originally removed.

Next, the ratio of the weft thread density / the warp thread density of the base cloth is in the range of 0.6 to 1.2, and the slipping resistance specified in JIS general fabric test method L-1096-1990 is sewn. It is necessary that the sum of the vertical direction and the horizontal direction is less than 45 mm as measured by the sliding method B method. A pattern is embroidered on the base fabric or on a combination of the base fabric and tulle by the sewing machine of the embroidery machine. If the ratio of the weft thread density / the warp thread density of the base cloth is less than 0.6, the warp thread density is And the weft thread density is not well balanced, and the embroidery pattern is misaligned. If the ratio of the weft yarn density / the warp yarn density of the base fabric exceeds 1.2, weaving shrinkage in the weft direction becomes large during weaving, and warp yarn breakage occurs frequently, making it difficult to weave. The slip resistance specified in JIS general textile test method L-1096-1990 is 4 when the sum of the vertical direction and the horizontal direction is 4 when measured by the seam sliding method B method.
If it is 5 mm or more, the auxiliary cloth may come off due to misalignment of the base cloth when it is upholstered, the thread may come off when sewing with a sewing machine, or the embroidery pattern may be rough and fine embroidery cannot be performed. Desirably,
The ratio of the weft thread density / the warp thread density of the base fabric is in the range of 0.7 to 1.0, and the seam slip-off resistance is less than 36 mm in the sum of the warp direction and the weft direction.

Further, since the shrinkage rate of the base cloth with boiling water affects the quality of the chemical lace, the ratio of the horizontal shrinkage rate / the vertical shrinkage rate of the base cloth is in the range of 0.8 to 1.2, particularly 0.9. ~
The range is 1.1, and the sum of the horizontal shrinkage ratio and the vertical shrinkage ratio is 1
It is preferably 0% or more. When the ratio of horizontal shrinkage / vertical shrinkage of the base cloth is out of the above range, embroidery or tulle may cause vertical and horizontal shrinkage to be unbalanced and spoil the quality, and the sum of horizontal shrinkage and vertical shrinkage is less than 10%. In that case, embroidery or tulle contraction may be hindered and the texture may be impaired. The optimum breaking strength of the polyester chemical lace base fabric of the present invention was measured in the weft direction by the tensile strength and elongation test A method (strip method) specified in JIS general woven fabric test method L-1096-1990. Tensile strength is the width of the test piece 5
It is desirable that it be 12 kgf or more in cm, and if this level or more is maintained, damage in the preparation process of upholstery and embroidery embroidery can be prevented depending on how the conditions are taken. If the breaking strength is less than 12 Kgf per 5 cm width of the test piece, the base cloth cannot withstand the tension of the foundation and breaks.
The base cloth may be broken during the sewing process of the sewing machine.

Next, the polyester constituting the chemical lace base fabric of the present invention will be described. The polyester needs to be easily soluble in alkali. This easily soluble alkali polyester is used for both vertical and horizontal threads.
Since it is formed into a woven fabric by using a single yarn, it is required to have not only a high alkali weight loss rate but also a spinnability and strength suitable for a chemical lace base fabric. The alkali-soluble polyester suitable for the present invention is a polyester obtained by copolymerizing ethylene terephthalate as a main repeating unit and a sulfonate group-containing compound. The sulfonate group-containing compound is a compound containing the following formula (I).

[0016]

[Chemical 1] (In the formula, Ar represents a trivalent aromatic group and M represents a metal atom.)

In order to satisfy the alkali weight loss rate satisfying the condition (a) in the present invention, the diol unit represented by the following formula (II) and the following formula (III) are represented. It is preferably a copolyester containing a side chain unit.

[0018]

[Chemical 2] (In the formula, R ¹ represents an alkylene group, and m represents a number of 10 to 100)

[0019]

[Chemical 3] (In the formula, R ² represents an alkylene group, R ³ represents a hydrocarbon group having 1 to 18 carbon atoms, n represents a number of 10 to 100, and x and y each represent 0 or 1.)

The dicarboxylic acid unit represented by the above formula (I) is 0.5 to 0.5 of all the acid components constituting the copolyester.
10 mol%, the diol unit represented by the formula (II) and the side chain unit represented by the formula (III) are respectively contained in an amount of 1 to 20% by weight based on the weight of the copolyester, and the formula (II) A copolymerized polyester in which the total content of the diol unit represented by and the side chain unit represented by the formula (III) is 2 to 40% by weight based on the weight of the copolymerized polyester is preferable.

In the above copolyester, the dicarboxylic acid unit represented by the above formula (I) [hereinafter referred to as "dicarboxylic acid unit (I)"] is a copolyester as the dicarboxylic acid unit constituting the copolyester. It is preferably contained in a proportion of 0.5 to 10 mol%, particularly 1 to 7 mol%, of all the constituent acid components. Dicarboxylic acid unit (I)
When the copolymerization ratio of is less than 0.5 mol%, the copolymerized polyester becomes difficult to dissolve during alkali treatment, while when it exceeds 10 mol%, the copolymerized polyester is ionic interaction of the metal sulfonate component. Thickening occurs during the polycondensation reaction for producing the copolyester, and it becomes difficult to continue the polycondensation reaction until the copolyester has a desired intrinsic viscosity. In the dicarboxylic acid unit (I), A
r is a trivalent aromatic group, M is a metal atom, and the group A
r is 1,3,5-benzenetriyl group, 1,2,
Benzenetriyl groups such as 3-benzenetriyl group and 1,2,4-benzenetriyl group; 1,3,6-naphthalenetriyl group, 1,3,7-naphthalenetriyl group, 1,
Examples thereof include naphthalenetriyl groups such as 4,5-naphthalenetriyl group and 1,4,6-naphthalenetriyl group. The metal atom M is an alkali metal atom such as sodium or lithium. The copolymerized polyester is
It may have only one type of dicarboxylic acid unit (I) or may have two or more types of dicarboxylic acid unit (I).

The copolymerized polyester has an ethylene terephthalate unit as a main repeating unit. Isophthalic acid and 1,4-naphthalene are used as carboxylic acid units other than terephthalic acid and dicarboxylic acid unit (I) which can be copolymerized. Dicarboxylic acid, 1,5-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid,
2,5-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, 1,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, 4,4′-biphenyldicarboxylic acid,
Aromatic dicarboxylic acids such as 3,3′-biphenyldicarboxylic acid, 4,4′-diphenylisopropylidenedicarboxylic acid, 1,2-diphenoxyethane-4 ′, 4 ″ -dicarboxylic acid, and 2,5-anthracenedicarboxylic acid Aromatic hydroxycarboxylic acids such as β-hydroxyethoxybenzoic acid and p-oxybenzoic acid; or aromatic dicarboxylic acid units derived from ester-forming derivatives thereof; and aromatic dicarboxylic acid units thereof. Is 1
Only one kind or two or more kinds may be contained. Along with the above-mentioned aromatic dicarboxylic acid units, aliphatic dicarboxylic acids such as adipic acid, azelaic acid and sebacic acid; and units derived from alicyclic dicarboxylic acids such as cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid and ester-forming derivatives thereof may also be included. Good.

The copolymerized polyester contains 1 to 20% of the diol unit represented by the above formula (II) [hereinafter referred to as "diol unit (II)"] based on the weight of the copolymerized polyester. When the proportion of the diol unit (II) is less than 1% by weight, the alkali solubility of the copolyester is lowered, while when it exceeds 20% by weight, the spinnability may be difficult. Diol unit (I
In I), R ¹ is preferably an alkylene group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably an ethylene group or a propylene group, and R ¹ is an ethylene group from the viewpoint of alkali solubility and the like. preferable. Diol unit (I
In I), m indicating the degree of polymerization of the oxyalkylene unit is a number within the range of 10 to 100, and m is preferably a number within the range of 20 to 80 as described above. In the diol unit (II), when m is less than 10, the alkali solubility becomes small, while when m exceeds 100, the alkali solubility is not much improved, and rather coloration is likely to occur. Examples of the diol unit (II) include units derived from polyoxyethylene glycol, polyoxypropylene glycol, polyoxyethylene / polyoxypropylene glycol, etc., in which m is in the range of 10 to 100. In the copolymerized polyester, the diol unit (II) may be contained alone or in combination of two or more.

The copolymerized polyester may contain a diol unit other than ethylene glycol and the diol unit (II). Other diol units include propylene glycol, trimethylene glycol,
Aliphatic diols such as tetramethylene glycol, pentamethylene glycol, hexamethylene glycol, nonamethylene glycol, 3-methylpentane-1,5-diol, 2-methyloctane-1,8-diol, diethylene glycol; cyclohexanedimethanol, etc. Examples thereof include units derived from alicyclic diols, and these diol units may be contained in one kind or in two or more kinds.

Further, the copolymerized polyester further has a side chain unit represented by the above formula (III) [hereinafter referred to as "side chain unit (II
I) ”] based on the weight of copolyester
The content of the side chain unit (III) is less than 1% by weight, and the alkali solubility is lowered. On the other hand, when it exceeds 20% by weight, the spinnability becomes difficult. The side chain unit (III) is, for example, the following formula (IV);

[0026]

[Chemical 4] [Wherein D is a group capable of reacting with a dicarboxylic acid component, a diol, or the like to introduce the side chain unit (III) represented by the above formula (III) into the main chain of the copolyester, R ² , R ³ and n represent the same groups and numbers as above] and can be introduced into the copolyester by reacting the compound at the time of production of the copolyester.

In the compound represented by the above formula (IV),
Examples of the ester-forming group D include, for example, the following formulas;

[Chemical 5] A glycidyl group represented by, or the following formula;

[Chemical 6] 2,3-dihydroxypropyl group and the like can be mentioned.

In the side chain unit (III), R ² is preferably an alkylene group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, more preferably an ethylene group or a propylene group, and particularly preferably an ethylene group. Further, specific examples of R ³ include methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, tert-butyl, n-pentyl,
n-octyl, 2-ethylhexyl, n-dodecyl,
Examples thereof include alkyl groups such as n-stearyl; and aryl groups having 6 to 18 carbon atoms such as cyclohexyl. Further, the side chain unit (III) may have an ethylene group and a propylene group in the same molecule. Further, in the side chain unit (III), n indicating the degree of polymerization of the oxyalkylene unit is in the range of 10 to 100, particularly 2 as described above.
It is preferably a number in the range 0-80. When n is smaller than 10, the alkali solubility is small, while n is 10
Even if it exceeds 0, the alkali solubility does not improve so much and it only causes coloring.

Specific examples of the side chain unit (III) include polyoxyethylene glycol-methyl-glycidyl ether, polyoxyethylene glycol-methyl-2,3-
Dihydroxypropyl ether, polyoxyethylene glycol-ethyl-glycidyl ether, polyoxyethylene glycol-ethyl-2,3-dihydroxypropyl ether, polyoxyethylene glycol-n-propyl-glycidyl ether, polyoxyethylene glycol-n-propyl- 2,3-dihydroxypropyl ether, polyoxyethylene glycol-t-butyl-glycidyl ether, polyoxyethylene glycol-t-butyl-2,3-dihydroxypropyl ether, polyoxyethylene glycol-n-octyl-glycidyl ether, poly Oxyethylene glycol-n
-Octyl-2,3-dihydroxypropyl ether,
Polyoxyethylene glycol-2-ethylhexyl-
2,3-glycidyl ether, polyoxyethylene glycol-2-ethylhexyl-2,3-dihydroxypropyl ether, polyoxyethylene glycol-n-
Stearyl-glycidyl ether, polyoxyethylene glycol-n-stearyl-2,3-dihydroxypropyl ether, polyoxyethylene glycol-phenyl-glycidyl ether, polyoxyethylene glycol-phenyl-2,3-dihydroxypropyl ether, polyoxyethylene Glycol-nonylphenyl-
Glycidyl ether, polyoxyethylene glycol-
Nonylphenyl-2,3-dihydroxypropyl ether, polyoxyethylene glycol-cyclohexyl-
Glycidyl ether, polyoxyethylene glycol-
Cyclohexyl-2,3-dihydroxypropyl ether, polyoxyethylene / polyoxypropylene glycol copolymer methyl glycidyl ether, polyoxyethylene / polyoxypropylene glycol copolymer methyl-2,3-dihydroxypropyl ether, polyoxy Examples thereof include units derived from n-propyl-2,3-dihydroxypropyl ether of ethylene / polyoxypropylene glycol copolymer, and these units may be contained alone in the copolyester, or Two or more kinds may be contained.

In the copolymerized polyester, the total content of the diol unit (II) and the side chain unit (III) is 2 to 40 based on the weight of the copolymerized polyester.
It is preferably in the range of 5% by weight, particularly 5 to 30% by weight. When the total content of the diol unit (II) and the side chain unit (III) is less than 2% by weight, alkali solubility is lowered, while when it exceeds 40% by weight, spinnability becomes difficult.

In addition to the above-mentioned units, the copolymerized polyester includes, for example, triols such as glycerin and trimethylolpropane; tetraols such as pentaerythritol; tricarboxylic acids such as trimellitic acid and trimesic acid; pyromellitic acid and the like. 4 such as tetracarboxylic acid
A small amount of copolymerized units derived from a polyfunctional component such as a polycarboxylic acid having a valency or more may be contained within a range in which melt spinning or melt molding of polyester is possible.

The copolyester has an intrinsic viscosity of 0.5 to 1.0 dl / g measured at 30 ° C. in an equal weight mixed solvent of phenol and tetrachloroethane. From the point of, it is preferable.

The copolymerized polyester is a dicarboxylic acid component capable of introducing the above-mentioned units into the copolymerized polyester,
A diol component, a side chain unit (III) represented by the above formula (IV)
It can be manufactured by carrying out a polycondensation reaction by a conventional method using a compound for use and the like. For example, in the first step, an esterification reaction or transesterification reaction is first performed using those raw material components to produce a low polymer, and then the second polymer is subjected to reduced pressure in the presence of a polymerization catalyst in the second step. It can be produced by heating to cause polycondensation until the desired degree of polymerization is reached, but of course the method is not limited to this. At that time, in the esterification reaction or transesterification reaction step before the polycondensation reaction, known esterification catalysts and transesterification reaction catalysts used in the production of polyester can be used as necessary.

The chemical lace base fabric of the present invention is, as described above, a woven fabric made of, for example, a yarn made of the above-mentioned alkali-soluble copolymerized polyester, and the woven fabric has the above-mentioned (a) to (a). The condition (c) is satisfied. In addition to the above-mentioned conditions (a) to (c), the chemical lace base fabric of the present invention is stable at the intersections of the yarns, is less likely to cause misalignment, and prevents the yarns from twisting due to twisting, etc. It is preferable that the surface is formed. For that purpose, twist of less than 500 T / M is imparted to the warp yarn constituting the woven fabric,
It is preferable that the yarn has a non-bulky air entanglement with an entanglement pitch of 100 mm or less, a thickness of 75 denier or less, and a basis weight of 20 to 55 g / m ² .

The water-soluble vinylon that constitutes the conventional chemical lace base fabric is capable of imparting gluing between the single fibers constituting the yarn due to its characteristics, and the yarn convergence property in a substantially non-twisted state. Can be improved. In the polyester yarn of the present invention as well, it is possible to condense the yarn by adjusting the heating atmosphere and the cooling state in the spinning and drawing process, but the handleability of the yarn and the unwinding and weaving properties of the yarn during weaving are also possible. In view of the above, it is easier to handle when it is excellent in flexibility, and it can be said that the converging on sticking is not preferable in terms of productivity and uniform stability. It is convenient to add a twist in order to improve the convergence of the yarn, but it is important to prevent the twisting of the yarn due to the twist on the surface of the fabric so that the twist should be less than 500 T / M. Is preferred. As an effective means for achieving the convergence of the yarn, in addition to adding twist, it is also possible to give air entanglement in advance. That is, by imparting non-bulky air entanglement, and setting the entanglement pitch to 100 mm or less to give the yarn a convergent property, not only the weavability of the base fabric is improved, but also the initial elongation region (from no load) It is possible to suppress the elongation in the elongation region when the stress is 5 kgf per width of 5 cm), which contributes to the improvement of the elongation stability of the base fabric and prevents the misalignment of the embroidery. Bulky air entanglement is not preferred in this respect, and non-bulky air entanglement is also preferred here.

Further, in order to further improve the misalignment of the base cloth and the stability of the initial stretched area, it is preferable to attach a specific sizing agent to the base cloth. That is, after the woven fabric is manufactured, the alkali-soluble sizing agent is attached to the woven fabric in an amount of 0.1 to 5% by weight, thereby improving the convergence of the warp and weft yarns. , It is to prevent the misalignment by promoting the fixation at the intersection of the warp and the weft.
The sizing agent to be used here should not interfere with the removal of the base cloth with an alkaline aqueous solution after embroidering the base cloth. Therefore, as a result of studying various sizing agents, polyvinyl sulphate-based and starch-based syrups were used rather than acrylic sizing agents (for example, Kyosei Chemical Plus Size T-823), CMC (carboxymethyl cellulose), water-soluble polyester sizing agents (Eastman Kodak It was found that (made by) is preferable. As for the amount of glue to be attached, if it is attached only between tissue intersections,
It is about 0.1 to 0.5% by weight with respect to the woven fabric, and 1 to 5 when the warp yarn, the weft yarn, and the intersection are sufficiently fixed.
It is about% by weight. If the amount of the sizing agent attached exceeds 5% by weight, it may be difficult to dry and wind the sizing agent after applying the sizing agent. The amount of adhesion needs to be changed depending on the design and type of embroidery to be used, the density of the base cloth, and the basis weight, but a more preferable range is 1 to 3% by weight.

The sizing agent may be applied in a separate step after weaving, but it may also be applied continuously in the water jet room immediately after weaving and evaporated in the water drying step.

[0038]

EXAMPLES The present invention will be specifically described with reference to the following examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples. In addition, each physical property in an Example is a value measured by the following method. (1) Intrinsic viscosity of polyester [η] (dl / g) It was measured at 30 ° C using a mixed solvent of phenol / tetrachloroethane (equal weight). (2) Warp yarn density and weft yarn density of the woven fabric were measured using a nomometer. (3) Dissolution time (minutes) of the base cloth The embroidered base cloth was dipped in a 10 g / l sodium hydroxide solution (liquid temperature 95 ° C.) and determined from the time-weight change curve. (4) Elongation rate (%) in the weft direction of the base fabric It was measured according to JIS L 1096 1990 (strip method). (5) Sliding resistance (mm) It was measured according to JIS L 1096 1990 (Seam Sliding Method B method). (6) Hot water shrinkage (Wsr:%) The initial load of 0.05 g / d is applied to the sample to be measured, and the length is 30.
The point of cm was marked, then, after being immersed in boiling water at 100 ° C. for 30 minutes in a free state, a load of 0.05 g / d was applied and the shrinkage rate at that point was obtained. (7) Entanglement pitch (mm) Insert a pin into the non-entangled part of the yarn under a tension of 0.02 g / d, move the pin in the yarn direction with a tension of 0.1 g / d,
The point at which the pin did not move was taken as the entangled portion, and the average value of the lengths between the entangled portions measured 10 times is shown.

Example 1 [0039] Terephthalic acid and ethylene glycol containing 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid in a ratio (mol%) shown in Table 1 were charged to an esterification reactor at a molar ratio of 1: 1.25. The esterification reaction was carried out at 230 ° C. under a pressure of 2.5 kg / cm ² for 2 hours. Then, the obtained reaction product (low polymer) was transferred to a polycondensator which had been heated to 230 ° C. in advance, to which polyethylene glycol having a molecular weight of 2000 and the following formula (V)

[Chemical 7] The polyoxyethylene glycidyl ether represented by
The amount shown in Table 1 was added, and 5% by weight of 1,3,5-tris (4-t-butyl-3-hydroxy-2) was added to the total amount of polyethylene glycol and polyoxyethylene glycidyl ether. , 6-Dimethylbenzyl)-
1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6- (1H3H, 5
H) -trion (manufactured by American Cyanamid; Syanox 1790) was added, and the temperature was raised from 230 ° C to 28 ° C.
Gradually 0.1 mmH while raising the temperature to 0 ° C over 45 minutes
After reducing the pressure to g, the melt viscosity of the reaction system at 280 ° C.
The polycondensation reaction was continued until a melt viscosity at 280 ° C. of polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.7 dl / g was substantially matched to obtain a copolyester.

The obtained copolyester chips are
Melt spinning was performed at a spinning temperature of 290 ° C. and a spinning speed of 1000 m / min while changing the denier and the number of filaments. Subsequently, stretching was carried out at a stretching speed of 500 m / min and a heating roller of 75 ° C. These drawn yarns are used as warp yarns for 250
T / m additional twisting and sizing to improve weavability were applied, and the plain weave was woven with the weft density unchanged and the weaving density changed. The results are shown in Table 1.

[0041]

[Table 1]

Various physical properties of the plain woven fabric shown in Table 1 are shown in Table 2. Using these plain fabrics as a chemical lace base fabric,
A chemical race was prototyped. Nylon tulle lace for innerwear was selected as a design that allows the characteristics of the base fabric to be easily determined. Rayon thread was used as the embroidery thread. Nylon tulle lace with sodium hydroxide concentration of 10g /
1, the alkali weight was reduced in a solution having a bath temperature of 95 ° C., the base cloth was dissolved, and a nylon tulle lace was finished. Products using sorbulon base cloth (base cloth using water-soluble vinylon filament)
Table 2 shows the result of judging the finish by using the above as a control.

[0043]

[Table 2]

Experiment No. For 1, 2, and 4, the dissolution time is 6
It took more than 0 minutes and the strength of the embroidery thread is weakening. Experiment No. No. 7 could not be sewn on the embroidery machine because the misalignment of the base cloth was too large to sew with the auxiliary cloth. In addition, the experiment No. Experiment No. 8 is 170 base cloth 7
Although the fabric is set at a temperature of ℃ and shrinkage is applied to increase the density of the base cloth, the melting time is short and the strength of the embroidery thread is maintained, but the boiling water shrinkage rate of the base cloth is small, so The contraction was hindered and the skin had a thin texture. Experiment No. 11
Indicates that the elongation of the weft yarn is 1 when the stress is 5 kgf / width 5 cm.
It was as large as 5%, stretched in the upholstery and embroidery processes, and excessive tension was applied to the tulle, causing misalignment of the tulle. Experiment No. In No. 13, the density balance between the warp yarn and the weft yarn was poor, and the embroidery pattern was distorted with respect to the design for which punching was designed. Experiment No. No. 18 could not be hung on the embroidery machine because the misalignment of the base cloth was too large. Experiment N
o. No. 19 is made by making the density of the base cloth sufficiently dense, but the base cloth is too dense and it is difficult to insert the needle,
Embroidery thread breakage occurred and the appearance was inferior. On the other hand, Experiment No. 3, 5, 6, 9, 10, 12, 14, 15, 1
In 6 and 17, the base cloth was completely dissolved and removed within 60 minutes, and the strength of the embroidery thread was maintained, and there were no defects such as misalignment of tulle or detachment of the embroidery thread. It was finished in the texture. Especially when using 50 denier, the swelling of the embroidery thread was larger and the finish was softer than when using the control Sorblon base cloth.

Next, in Experiment No. Same polymer composition as 12,
Denier and filament number (50 denier / 24 filaments) of polyester thread is used, average 50 mm, average 80 mm and average 120 m by non-bulky air entanglement
Give 3 levels of entanglement pitch of m, vertical length of 84 /
Weaving of sack and weft 75 pieces / sack woven in a water jet loom. At the same time, 250 T / M, 450 T / M, and 600 T / M additional twists were applied to a yarn having an average entanglement pitch of 120 mm, and the yarn was woven at the same density to obtain a lace base fabric. on the other hand,
Acrylic sizing agent (Plus size T-823 manufactured by Kyodo Kagaku Co., Ltd.) was diluted 20 times, 10 times, 3 times, 2 times, and 1.5 times into a woven fabric using a yarn having an average entanglement pitch of 80 mm. It was dipped in a dip nip method, squeezed with a mangle, and then dried to obtain a base fabric. Then, after performing direct embroidery without using tulle, the test No. In the same manner as in 12, the base cloth was eluted with alkali, and the appearance was evaluated. The results are shown in Table 3.

[0046]

[Table 3] Experiment No. When the pitch of the non-bulky air entanglement exceeds 100 mm on average as in No. 22, weaving property of the greige may be deteriorated, resulting in non-uniform weave, causing skipping of stitches and pattern distortion. There were cases. Experiment No. 25
When the number of twists is increased too much like this, the texture is staggered, the pattern is recognized to be deformed, and the stretch of the cloth is increased. Experiment No. As in No. 26, when the amount of the sizing agent attached is about 0.1% by weight, there is no remarkable improvement effect with the base fabric which is not attached. As in Nos. 27, 28 and 29, those having an adhered amount of 0.2 to 5% by weight were able to beautifully embroider a fine pattern or a complicated pattern, and had a further improvement effect. However, the experimental No. In the case of No. 30, the creases of the base fabric caused distortion of the pattern, and the appearance was slightly poor.

[0047]

EFFECT OF THE INVENTION The chemica-based lace base fabric of the present invention can be woven with a water jet room and can replace the conventional base fabric made of water-soluble vinylon. Moreover, the lace thread after the embroidery is not damaged and the embroidery pattern can be finished beautifully, and not only the chemical lace can be provided at a low price, but also the base fabric design can be made according to the type of the lace embroidery. You can freely.

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Claims (3)

[Claims] 1. A woven fabric comprising a polyester yarn comprising an ethylene terephthalate unit as a main repeating unit and copolymerizing a sulfonate group-containing compound, and simultaneously satisfying the following (a) to (c). A polyester-based chemical lace base fabric characterized by being (A) The woven fabric has a weight loss rate such that it is completely dissolved and removed in less than 60 minutes under a sodium weight loss condition of 10 g / liter and a liquid temperature of 95 ° C. under an alkali weight loss condition. (B) JIS general textile test method L-1096-1990
In the tensile strength and elongation test A method (strip method) specified in 1., in the stress-elongation curve in the weft direction, the elongation at 5 kgf per 5 cm width of the test piece is 10% or less. (C) Weft yarn density / warp yarn density is in the range of 0.6 to 1.2, and JIS general fabric test method L-1096-199.
The sliding resistance specified by 0 is less than 45 mm in the sum of the vertical direction and the horizontal direction as measured by the seam sliding method B method. 2. The warp yarn constituting the woven fabric is a yarn having a thickness of 75 denier or less, to which twist of less than 500 T / M is imparted and / or non-bulky air entanglement of entanglement pitch of 100 mm or less is imparted. , The fabric weight is 20 to 55 g / m ^2.
The polyester-based chemical lace base fabric according to claim 1, wherein 3. A fabric containing 0.1 to 5 alkali-soluble sizing agents.
The polyester-based chemical lace base fabric according to claim 1, wherein the polyester-based chemical lace base fabric is provided in a weight percentage.