JPH0715708U - clothes - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] [Purpose] When slits or box pleats are provided on clothes, the inconvenience caused by the multiple layers of outer fabrics is eliminated,
The garment has the appearance and functions similar to those provided with box pleats, but eliminates secondary obstacles due to multiple layers. [Structure] In a garment composed of a front material and a lining material, a slit is provided on the outer material, and a facing cloth is provided at a position corresponding to the slit of the outer material.

Description

[Detailed description of the device]

[0001]

[Industrial applications]

 The present invention relates to clothes such as skirts, dresses, jackets, suits, and coats, and more particularly to clothes having slits, box pleats, etc. in these kinds of clothes.

[0002]

[Prior art]

 Clothes are required to have a morphological beauty when worn, but are also required to have the function of facilitating the wearer's exercise. When the design or silhouette changes due to changes in morphological preferences, slits are added to match the morphological requirements with the ease of exercise, and tuck-type or box-type pleats (hereinafter referred to as box pleats). I am trying to solve the demands on form and motor function. For example, if the silhouette of the skirt is required to be tight, the skirt side of the skirt cannot be at least widened but needs to be narrowed to secure the sillette. However, a skirt with a narrow hem naturally makes walking difficult and sometimes makes walking substantially impossible. To solve this problem, a slit is made in the skirt of the skirt to eliminate the difficulty of walking and to secure a tight silhouette. Such a solution is widely applied in the form of slits, box pleats, etc. not only for skirts but also for suits, jackets, coats, etc. regardless of gender, upper and lower clothing, and regardless of outerwear and innerwear. There is.

[0003]

[Issues to be solved by the device]

 However, although the conventional solution has achieved some results in terms of securing the silhouette and securing the motor function, it is different because of the means for forming the slit portion and the box pleat portion. It causes a problem, that is, a secondary problem. In other words, the number of superficial bodies in the relevant part is large, and the thickness balance with other parts, which is generally one, is poor, and the part where you want to make the presence inconspicuous is conspicuous as much as possible. I feel it. Especially when knitted fabric is used, this tendency becomes remarkable. Furthermore, since the weight of the corresponding part becomes heavier, it may become different from other parts when worn, and the silhouette may collapse. In addition, the number of processes and the amount of fabrics used increase and the heat treatment during the process also increases, which may cause attrition and shininess in the relevant parts, resulting in higher costs and restrictions on the adoption of designs. In contrast to the above situation, the present invention achieves the original purpose of providing box pleats and the like by using slits and box pleats to minimize secondary adverse effects caused by the provision of these sections. It provides clothing that can ensure athletic function while avoiding the adverse effects of silhouette and design.

[0004]

[Means for Solving the Problems]

 The present invention is: A garment comprising a front material and a lining material, wherein a slit is provided on the outer material, and a lining cloth is provided on the lining at a position corresponding to the slit portion of the outer material. 2. 2. The clothing according to 1 above, wherein a cut portion is provided in the lining at a position corresponding to the slit provided in the outer material, and a facing cloth is provided in the cut portion. 3. The above 1 or above, wherein the end of the cut portion of the lining is sewn to the end of the folded portion of the slit portion of the outer material, and the end of the counter cloth is further laterally sewn to the lining. 2. The clothes described in 2. 4. 4. The garment according to the above item 3, wherein an opening width, which is a distance between a position where the end of the facing cloth is laterally sewn on the lining and a center of the slit of the outer material, is 3 to 15 cm. 5. 5. The garment according to the above 3 or 4, wherein the hidden width, which is the distance between the position where the upper sewn portion of the facing cloth is sewn to the lining and the slit stop position on the outer material, is 2 cm or more. 6. 6. The garment according to the above 3 or 4 or 5, wherein the upper end of the cut portion provided in the lining is not located below the upper end of the slit provided in the outer material. By doing so, the purpose is achieved.

A detailed description will be given below with reference to the drawings. 1 to 5 show an embodiment of the garment according to the present invention. 6 to 11 show an example of a conventional skirt provided with box pleats. First, a typical conventional example will be described with reference to FIGS. 6 to 11. FIG. 6 is a front external view of a conventional skirt, and FIG. 7 is an internal external view of a conventional skirt. FIG. 8 is a plan view of a front body of a conventional skirt. In the figure, 1 is a rear body on the right side, 2 is a rear body on the left side, and 3 is a conventional skirt lining. BP is box pleats, B is the back body, PC is the center of the pleats, and D is the BP folding margin.

In the conventional typical skirt shown in FIG. 6, the box pleats BP are provided at the center of the rear body of the skirt. That is, the box pleats BP are provided at the center of the back body, which is the joint between the right front body 1 and the left front body 2. When this skirt is viewed from the inside, it is covered by the scart lining 3 which is separate from the box pleats BP as shown in FIG. In this case, the outer body used for making the skirt is the one shown in plan view in FIG. That is, the right front back body 1 and the left front back body 2 are joined so that the joints form a pleated center PC. This joint has a BP fold margin D and has a back body distance 5 at the top. Therefore, the back body distance 5 is a distance that disappears after being sewn, the BP folding margin D is an overlapping portion used to form the box pleats BP, and the width of the box pleats BP is large. It will be big.

9 to 11 are for explaining a manufacturing process of the skirt of FIGS. 6 to 8. 4 is a hem folding margin, P1 is a right pleat, and P2 is a left pleat. First, as shown in FIG. 8, using the cut front body, the hem folding margin 4 is bent and the shape is determined by an iron or a press. Then, as shown in FIG. 10, the right pleat P1 of the rear right body 1 is shaped with a folding iron or the like, and then the rear left body P2 is similarly bent and shaped, and as shown in FIG. It is completed.

In the garment, a lining material is used for the purpose of improving sliding with the inside, preventing damage due to abrasion with the inside clothes such as socks or blouse, and preventing permeation of secretions from the body to the surface. Is used. In this case, in the case of the upper garment, the lining is sewn to the folded-back end of the outer material, etc., and is substantially integrated with the outer material. For skirts and one-piece skirts, the same shape as the outer material is made, but it is made slightly larger. The waist is sewn to the outer material and the hem and sides are freely attached to the outer material. However, if the hem and sides are free, the lining may slip over, twist, or cling to the body when walking or putting on and taking off, and the lining's function may not be fulfilled. In order to prevent the occurrence of such a state, it is general to carry out so-called flash stop for partially stopping the front body part and the lining skirt with a chain knitting cord.

In this way, the work is not completed only by performing the required shape determination and mounting and further performing the required sewing work. In other words, the box pleats are made of six outer layers and are bulky, while the other parts are one or two. In order to reduce this difference in thickness, it is necessary to carry out pressing treatment with a steam iron or a press at 130 to 150 ° C. However, regardless of these treatments, the difference in thickness is essentially unresolved, so it is unavoidable that the box pleats cause a difference in movement due to a difference in weight compared to other portions. Further, high temperature and high pressure treatment may cause attrition, shine, etc. in that portion. In the case of the finished garment, these things do not raise the quality of the skirt, but do not raise it.

Even if such a slit or pleat box is provided, the present invention provides a garment that does not cause secondary adverse effects caused by the provision. 1 to 5 show one embodiment of the present invention. FIG. 1 is a front external view of an embodiment of the present invention when a garment according to the present invention is a skirt. FIG. 2 is an internal external view of an embodiment of the present invention when the garment according to the present invention is a skirt. FIG. 3 is a plan view of a dress body according to an embodiment of the present invention when the garment according to the present invention is a skirt. FIG. 4 is an explanatory view of a slit portion in one embodiment of the present invention when the garment according to the present invention is a skirt. FIG. 5 is a sectional view taken along line XX of FIG. 1 to 5, the same reference numerals are used for the same portions as those in FIGS. 6 to 11. In the figure, 31 is the lining of the present invention, 6 is the facing cloth, 7 is the slit folding and sewing allowance, 8 is the slit folding and sewing allowance seam, and 9 is the horizontal stitching between the facing cloth and the lining. 10 is the upper end of the front material slit, 11 is the upper sewing portion of the facing cloth, 12 is the frame sewing portion, S is the outer material slit, L is the opening width, and H is the hidden width.

As shown in FIG. 1, when the garment according to the present invention is a skirt, the slit S can be seen from the outside, but the state is similar to that of the conventional box pleats. It has a nice appearance. A view of this from the inside is shown in FIG. That is, 31 is the lining in the present invention, and the facing cloth 6 is sewn to the rear surface body at a position corresponding to the slit S. If the same cloth as the back surface body is used as the facing cloth 6, the same appearance as that of the conventional box pleats can be obtained. Also, by using a cloth different from the back and front body, it is possible to give a unique sense of slits, and it is possible to add variety to clothes by selecting colors, patterns and cloths.

FIG. 3 is a plan view of a dress material body corresponding to FIG. 8 in the conventional case. As is apparent from FIG. 3, in implementing the present invention, the BP folding margin D which has been conventionally required is not required. It suffices if a slit folding and stitching allowance 7 is provided. The slit folding and seaming allowance 7 has a very small width, and in practice, 3 to 4 cm is sufficient, and at least half or less of the conventional one, generally one third or less is sufficient.

FIG. 4 and FIG. 5 are for explaining a mounting state of the rear front body parts 1, 2 and the lining 31 and the facing cloth 6 in the present invention. First, the lining 31 in the present invention is provided with a notch corresponding to the slit S provided on the rear surface body. Details of the cutout portion will be described later. The slit fold and seam allowance 7 is folded back and the end thereof is sewn to the end of the notch of the lining 31 in the present invention and the slit fold and seam allowance sewn portion 8. Further, the right and left end portions of the facing cloth 6 are sewn to the lining 31 in the present invention by the lateral sewing portions 9 of the facing cloth and the lining.

At this time, the distance between the slit, the facing cloth, and the lateral sewing portion 9 of the lining is the opening width L, and an appropriate length is given. 3 to 15 cm is a preferable range for the given length. If the length is shorter than 3 cm, the slit opening is small and it becomes difficult to achieve the purpose of providing the slit. If it exceeds 15 cm, the slits will open too much and the sillette will collapse, and the counter cloth 6 will become too large, and the balance of the entire front and back cloth will collapse and the shape during exercise will be beautiful. You will lose.

The upper end of the facing cloth 6 is sewn to the lining 31 of the present invention at the upper sewn portion 11 like the left and right ends. At this time, the upper sewing portion 11 needs to be above the upper end portion 10 of the slit S provided in the rear surface body. The distance between the upper end portion 10 of the slit and the upper sewing portion 11 is a hidden width H. It is preferable that the hidden width H is 2 cm or more because the lining is not visible when the slit is opened. If it is less than 2 cm, the lining is visible depending on the conditions when the slit is opened, which is not preferable. In relation to the upper sewn portion 11, the upper end portion of the notch portion provided in the lining 31 in the present invention does not impair the movement of the slit S and the function of the facing cloth 6 as described above. It is not preferable that it is below the upper end of the slit S provided in the ground. It is preferable to provide it at a position as close to the upper sewing portion 11 of the facing cloth 6 as possible.

In the garment according to the present invention configured as described above, the manufacturing process is almost the same as when the slit is provided in the front body, but it is as if the obtained box pleats are obtained. It can give a feeling similar to that provided with. However, it does not increase the thickness or the rigidity of the movement when the box pleats are provided, and it is possible to secure the flexibility and drape of the surface body used very naturally. is there.

[0017]

【Example】

A double-knit fabric using polyester / wool (50/50) blended yarn was used as the surface body and the counter cloth. The fabric weight was 360 g / m ² and the thickness was 1.65 mm. A plain weave fabric using polyester filament yarn was used as the lining. The basis weight of the dough was 100 g / m ² , and the thickness was 0.1 mm. Using these fabrics, a skirt was sewn that had the same appearance as the conventional box pleats provided in the center of the back body. For this reason, a slit with a length of 25 cm is provided at the center of the back body, the opening width (L in FIG. 5) is 7 cm, and the hidden width (H in FIG. 4) is 5 cm. Designed position.

[0018] When sewing, the hem folding allowance of the body is specified to be a frame sewing specification in order to reduce the finished thickness of the slit portion of the outer material. The seam edges are butt shaped to reduce the overlap of the fabric. As for the lining, a slit with a height of 10 cm, which is not related to the outer material, is provided at the side of the skirt, and the upper end of the slit and the outer material are connected with a chain braid of about 3 cm in length. I stopped flashing.

The resulting skirt has a slit portion on the outer appearance that is similar in appearance to the conventional box pleated skirt, and the fabric thickness is also very thin. It also fits well with the lining, and I was able to obtain a skirt with an extremely clean look. Furthermore, the amount of dough used was about 20% less than in the conventional case, the processing time was short, and the cost required for manufacturing was low. Table 1 shows various evaluation results.

Comparative Example A skirt having box pleats with a pleat width of 10 cm was manufactured by using the same material as in the example and by the conventional method shown in FIGS. 6 to 11. The obtained skirt with box pleats had 6 sheets of the outer material of the hemming margin in the pleats, and the outer portion was thick enough to give a clear and abnormal feeling compared to the other portions. there were. The pleat was carefully pressed repeatedly at high temperature (150 ° C) and high pressure (150 g / cm ² ) to reduce this thickness as much as possible. Crushing was observed and Kotebikari developed. The specified amount of fabric was required to be about 20% larger than that of the example, and the working time was also required. Table 1 also shows various evaluation results.

Reference Example A skirt was manufactured by using the same material, the same design, and the same sewing as in the example except that the opening width L was 2 cm and the hidden width H was 1 cm as compared with the example. The obtained skirt had a very beautiful and neat silhouette when it was worn, but it was difficult to walk with a normal stride, and the lining was visible at the top of the slit when walking. It wasn't very beautiful. The cause is that the opening width L2 cm and the hidden width H1 cm are extremely narrow. If the hidden width is sufficient, it is thought that the beauty of walking can be secured, regardless of the pleasant activity of walking. The results of various evaluations are also shown in Table 1.

[0022]

[Table 1] Judgment display ○: No problem (excellent) Δ: Some problem (normal) ×: Problem (inferior)

[0023]

[Effect of device]

 The present invention has an appearance similar to that of the conventional box pleats, but does not cause the increase in thickness which is a secondary defect due to the box pleats, and further the occurrence of glossiness. It is possible to obtain clothes that have a width adjustment function part that has movement and drape characteristics that are in harmony with the part of. Moreover, despite having such excellent functions, the amount of cloth used is much smaller than that of the conventional box pleats, and the time required for processing and sewing can be significantly reduced. . As described above, the present invention can bring great industrial advantages.

[0024]

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a front external view of an embodiment of the present invention when a garment according to the present invention is a skirt.

FIG. 2 is an internal external view of an embodiment of the present invention when the garment according to the present invention is a skirt.

FIG. 3 is a plan view of a dress material body according to an embodiment of the present invention when the garment according to the present invention is a skirt.

FIG. 4 is an explanatory view of a slit portion in one embodiment of the present invention when the garment according to the present invention is a skirt.

5 is a sectional view taken along line XX of FIG.

FIG. 6 is a front view of a conventional skirt.

FIG. 7 is an external view of a conventional skirt.

FIG. 8 is a plan view of a front body of a conventional skirt.

FIG. 9 is an explanatory view of a sewing order of a conventional skirt.

FIG. 10 is an explanatory view of a sewing order of a conventional skirt.

FIG. 11 is an explanatory view of a sewing order of a conventional skirt.

[0025]

[Explanation of symbols]

 BP: Box pleats S: Outer surface slit D: BP folding margin PC: Center of pleats P1: Right pleats P2: Left pleats B: Back body L: Opening width H: Hidden width 1: Right table back body 2: Left table back Body 3: Conventional skirt lining 31: Lining in the present invention 4: Hem folding allowance 5: Left and right rear body distance 6: Backing cloth 7: Slit fold allowance and seam allowance 8: Slit fold allowance and seam allowance 9: Horizontal sewn portion of facing cloth and lining 10: Upper end of outer material slit 11: Upper sewn portion of facing cloth 12: Frame sewn portion

Claims (6)

[Scope of utility model registration request] 1. A garment comprising a front material and a lining material, wherein a slit is provided in the front material, and a backing cloth is provided at a position corresponding to the slit portion of the front material. 2. The garment according to claim 1, wherein a cut portion is provided on the lining at a position corresponding to the slit provided on the outer material, and a facing cloth is provided on the cut portion. 3. An end of a cut portion of the lining is sewn to an end of a fold margin of a slit portion of the outer material, and an end of a facing cloth is laterally sewn to the lining. The garment according to claim 1 or claim 2. 4. A position where the end of the facing cloth is laterally sewn to the lining,
The opening width, which is the distance from the center of the slit in the outer material, is 3 to 1
The garment according to claim 3, which has a length of 5 cm. 5. A hidden width, which is the distance between the position where the upper sewn portion of the facing cloth is sewn to the lining and the upper end of the slit in the outer material, is 2 cm.
It is above, The claim 3 or and Claim 4 characterized by the above-mentioned.
The listed clothes. 6. The garment according to claim 3, wherein the upper end of the cut portion provided on the lining is not located below the upper end of the slit provided on the outer material.