JPH0711532A - Production of unlevelly dyed yarn of cellulose fibers and woven or knitted fabric using the yarn - Google Patents

Production of unlevelly dyed yarn of cellulose fibers and woven or knitted fabric using the yarn

Info

Publication number
JPH0711532A
JPH0711532A JP5149056A JP14905693A JPH0711532A JP H0711532 A JPH0711532 A JP H0711532A JP 5149056 A JP5149056 A JP 5149056A JP 14905693 A JP14905693 A JP 14905693A JP H0711532 A JPH0711532 A JP H0711532A
Authority
JP
Japan
Prior art keywords
yarn
dyed
dyeing
twisted
woven
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Pending
Application number
JP5149056A
Other languages
Japanese (ja)
Inventor
Masami Murayama
正美 村山
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
KURATORA KK
Original Assignee
KURATORA KK
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by KURATORA KK filed Critical KURATORA KK
Priority to JP5149056A priority Critical patent/JPH0711532A/en
Publication of JPH0711532A publication Critical patent/JPH0711532A/en
Pending legal-status Critical Current

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  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)

Abstract

PURPOSE:To provide a method for producing the unlevelly dyed yarn by dyeing an additionally twisted filament yarn and a spun ground twisted yarn, both comprising cellulosic fibers in small lots. CONSTITUTION:A method for producing the unlevelly dyed yarn of cellulosic fibers comprises additionally twisting an additionally twisted filament yarn and a spun ground twisted yarn, both comprising cellulosic fibers, in a prescribed twisting number in an additionally twisting direction, dyeing the additionally twisted yarns in a cheese-like state and subsequently untwisting the dyed yarns in a prescribed untwisting number in a direction reverse to the additionally twisting direction.

Description

【発明の詳細な説明】Detailed Description of the Invention

【0001】[0001]

【産業上の利用分野】本発明はセルローズ系繊維の斑染
調糸の製造法及びその糸を使用して織編物を形成した織
編物に係るものである。
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for producing a spot dyeing yarn of cellulosic fibers and a woven / knitted fabric formed by using the yarn.

【0002】[0002]

【従来の技術及び発明が解決しようとする課題】従来よ
りセルローズ系長繊維追撚糸及び紡績地撚り糸の糸染め
には種々の方法が行われているが、なかでもトップ染め
やインヂゴ染めやスペック染め等がその代表的なものと
して広く使用されてきている。
2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, various methods have been used for dyeing cellulosic long-fiber post-twisted yarns and spun ground twisted yarns. Among them, top dyeing, indigo dyeing, and spec dyeing Etc. have been widely used as typical ones.

【0003】トップ染めはわたを2色以上ブレンドした
ものを紡績糸にした紡績工程における綿染めのためロッ
トが大きくなり、現在の多品種少量生産のファッション
傾向とは逆行している。またわたを染色してから織物や
編物の製品となって商品市場に発売されるまでの期間が
長くかかり、その間に色の傾向が変化して市場のニーズ
に適合しない恐れがあった。
The top dyeing has a large lot due to the dyeing of cotton in the spinning process using a blend of two or more colors of cotton as a spun yarn, which is contrary to the current fashion trend of high-mix low-volume production. In addition, it takes a long time from the dyeing of cotton to the sale in the market of products such as woven or knitted products, and during that time, the tendency of colors may change, which may not meet the needs of the market.

【0004】またインヂゴ染めは織物のたて糸を300
〜600本位まとめてロープ状とし、このロープを複数
本平行に走行させて連続染色するため、1色当たりのロ
ットが大きく、小ロットではコスト高になるうえに細糸
の場合は糸切れの問題から細糸の染色が困難であった。
また商品とした場合、染色は染料の染着より付着が大で
あるため染色堅牢度が低く加工で色が脱落し任意の色が
出し難く、また濃色ができにくい欠点があった。
In addition, indigo dyeing uses 300 woven warp threads.
Approximately 600 strands are made into a rope shape and multiple ropes are run in parallel for continuous dyeing, so lots per color are large, cost is high for small lots, and thread breakage occurs in the case of thin yarns. It was difficult to dye the fine yarn.
Further, when used as a commercial product, since the dyeing has a larger adhesion than the dyeing, the dyeing fastness is low, and the colors fall off during processing, and it is difficult to produce an arbitrary color.

【0005】またスペック染めは長繊維及び紡績糸を綛
状糸束にして2色以上部分的に染色する手法であるが、
チーズ状に巻き上げた糸を綛状糸束にして染色し、さら
にこの綛状糸束の糸をコーン状に巻き上げるため小ロッ
ト生産は可能であるが、工程が長くなりコスト面で不利
益であった。また、最大の欠点は綛間の染めバラツキに
より均一性が著しく欠けることであり、バッチ毎の再現
性が悪く、また結節が多く織物や編物にした場合の品位
が低い。
Spec dyeing is a technique in which long fibers and spun yarns are made into a string-like yarn bundle and partially dyed in two or more colors.
Small yarn production is possible because the yarn wound in cheese is dyed into a bundle of yarns, and the yarns in the bundle of yarns are wound into a cone, but it is possible to produce in small lots, but this is disadvantageous in terms of cost and cost. It was Further, the biggest drawback is that the uniformity is remarkably lacked due to the unevenness of dyeing between the dots, the reproducibility for each batch is poor, and there are many knots, resulting in poor quality when used as a woven or knitted fabric.

【0006】本発明はセルローズ系繊維からなる長繊維
追撚糸及び紡績地撚り糸を加撚方向に追撚した後、この
追撚した糸をチーズ状にして染色し、解撚することによ
り上記の欠点を解決した斑染調糸の製造法及びこの糸を
使用した織編物を提供することを技術的課題とするもの
である。
According to the present invention, the above-mentioned drawbacks are obtained by subjecting a long-fiber additional twisted yarn and a spun ground twisted yarn made of cellulosic fibers to additional twisting in the twisting direction, dyeing the additional twisted yarn and then untwisting. It is a technical object to provide a method for producing a spot dyed yarn that solves the above problem and a woven or knitted product using this yarn.

【0007】[0007]

【課題を解決するための手段】添付図面を参照して本発
明の要旨を説明する。
The gist of the present invention will be described with reference to the accompanying drawings.

【0008】セルローズ系繊維からなる長繊維追撚糸及
び紡績地撚り糸を加撚方向に所定加撚数で追撚し、この
追撚した糸をチーズ状にして染色し、前記追撚方向とは
逆方向に所定回撚数で解撚したことを特徴とするセルロ
ーズ系繊維の斑染調糸の製造法に係るものである。
A long-fiber additional twisted yarn and a spun ground twisted yarn made of cellulosic fibers are additionally twisted in a predetermined twisting number in a twisting direction, and the additional twisted yarn is dyed into a cheese shape and dyed in the opposite direction to the above-mentioned twisting direction. The present invention relates to a method for producing a spot dyed yarn of a cellulosic fiber, which comprises untwisting in a predetermined number of twists.

【0009】また、請求項1記載の糸を使用して織物若
しくは編物を形成したことを特徴とする織編物に係るも
のである。
Further, the present invention relates to a woven or knitted fabric characterized by forming a woven or knitted fabric using the yarn according to claim 1.

【0010】[0010]

【作用】セルローズ系繊維からなる長繊維追撚糸及び紡
績地撚り糸を加撚方向に所定加撚数で追撚した後、この
追撚した糸をチーズ状にして染色すると、浸染時に糸の
繊維に膨潤が起こり、染料により糸表面が濃染着aさ
れ、糸の内部は糸が追撚されているため内部に行く程淡
染着bされる。
[Function] A long fiber post-twisted yarn and a spun ground twisted yarn made of cellulosic fibers are twisted in a twisting direction at a predetermined twisting number, and then the twisted yarn is dyed into a cheese shape and dyed into a fiber of the yarn at the time of dyeing. Swelling occurs, the surface of the yarn is deeply dyed a by the dye, and the inside of the yarn is lightly dyed b toward the inside because the yarn is twisted.

【0011】この糸を前記追撚方向とは逆方向に所定解
撚数で撚りを戻すと糸内部の淡染着b部が糸の表面にラ
ンダムに出現し、糸表面に濃染着aの部分と淡染着bの
部分とがほぼ均一に入り混じって発現された斑染調の糸
が製成される。
When the yarn is untwisted in a direction opposite to the additional twisting direction at a predetermined untwisting number, the light dyeing b portion inside the yarn appears at random on the surface of the yarn, and the dark dyeing a is formed on the yarn surface. A spot dyed yarn is produced in which the portion and the portion of the light dyeing b are almost uniformly mixed and expressed.

【0012】また、この糸を使用して製織編し、糊抜
き,バイオ加工,柔軟加工して織編物を製成すると表面
に濃染着aされた部分と淡染着bされた部分とがほぼ均
一に入り混じって斑染調の織編物になる。
When the yarn is woven and knitted, and desizing, bioprocessing, and softening are performed to make a woven or knitted product, a portion strongly dyed a and a portion lightly dyed b are formed on the surface. Almost evenly mixed and mixed into a spot-dyed woven or knitted fabric.

【0013】[0013]

【実施例】セルローズ系繊維からなる長繊維追撚糸及び
紡績地撚り糸を加撚方向に所定加撚数で追撚する。発明
者は、多数のセルローズ系繊維よりなる長繊維追撚糸及
び紡績地撚りの糸で追撚数の実験を行い、加撚範囲を 10600<K1<36000 ここで K1=√D×T D =加工デニール T =加撚数(地撚数+追撚数)T/m とするのが最適であることを見出し、この追撚された糸
を状にして染色すると、浸染時に糸の繊維に膨潤が起こ
り、染料により糸表面が濃染着aされ、糸の内部は糸が
追撚されているため内部に行く程淡染着bする。この糸
を前記追撚方向とは逆に解撚して解撚後の撚数Tを √D×地撚数<K2<27000 K2=√D×T D =加工デニール T =解撚後の撚数T/m の範囲に解撚すると、糸内部の淡染着bが糸の表面にラ
ンダムに出現し、糸表面に濃染着aされた部分と淡染着
bされた部分とがほぼ均一に入り混じって発現され斑染
に極めて近い糸が生成される。
Example A long-fiber additional twisted yarn and a spun ground twisted yarn made of cellulosic fibers are additionally twisted in a predetermined twisting number in a twisting direction. The inventor conducted an experiment on the number of additional twists with a long-fiber additional twist yarn and a spun ground twist yarn composed of a large number of cellulosic fibers, and set a twisting range to 10600 <K 1 <36000 where K 1 = √D × TD = Processed denier T = The number of twists (the number of ground twists + the number of additional twists) T / m was found to be optimal, and when the additional twisted yarns were dyed into a shape, the fibers of the yarns were dyed during dyeing. Swelling occurs, the surface of the yarn is deeply dyed a by the dye, and the inside of the yarn is further twisted. This yarn is untwisted in the direction opposite to the additional twisting direction, and the twisting number T after untwisting is √D × number of ground twists <K 2 <27,000 K 2 = √D × TD = processed denier T = after untwisting When the yarn is untwisted within the range of the number of twists T / m 2, the light-dyeing b inside the yarn appears randomly on the surface of the yarn, and a part dyed deeply a and a part light-dyed b are formed on the yarn surface. Threads are formed that are almost evenly mixed and are very similar to spot dyeing.

【0014】また、実験によれば解撚後の撚数が大きい
程この斑染調の糸は濃染着a部が長く解撚後の撚数が小
さい程濃染着a部が短く杢感が強まるので、市場の要求
により前記K1,K2の値を選択することによって織編物
の表情を変化することができることを確認した。
According to the experiment, the larger the number of twists after untwisting, the longer the deep-dyeing a part of this spot dyed yarn is, and the smaller the number of twists after untwisting is, the shorter the deep-dyeing a part is. It was confirmed that the expression of the woven or knitted fabric can be changed by selecting the values of K 1 and K 2 according to the market demand.

【0015】また、セルローズ系繊維素繊維20番単糸
(266デニール),紡績地撚りZ550T/mの糸を
Z1600T/mに加撚し、反応染料によるチーズ染色
を行い、その後でS1200T/mの解撚を行った。
[0015] Further, a cellulosic fibrous fiber No. 20 single yarn (266 denier) and a yarn of spun ground twist Z550T / m are twisted to Z1600T / m, and cheese dyeing is carried out with a reactive dye, and then S1200T / m. Untwisted.

【0016】この糸をたて糸にし、よこ糸に20番単糸
の生白を組み合わせ織物を製造した。その規格は生機た
て糸密度40本/cm,よこ糸密度29本/cmで3/1デ
ニムを製織し、糊抜き、バイオ加工,柔軟加工を施し、
仕上げたて密度45本/cm,よこ密度31本/cmで仕上
げた。
This yarn was used as a warp yarn, and weft was combined with white yarn of No. 20 single yarn to produce a woven fabric. The standard is weaving 3/1 denim with greige warp yarn density 40 yarns / cm, weft yarn density 29 yarns / cm, de-sizing, bio-processing, softening,
Finished with a fresh density of 45 pieces / cm and a horizontal density of 31 pieces / cm.

【0017】その結果、セルローズ系繊維特有の自然に
流れるような表情をもった手触りの良い織物となり、こ
の織物表面は濃染着aされた部分と淡染着bされた部分
とが均一に入り混じった斑染に極めて近い品位の高い織
物が得られた。
As a result, a woven fabric with a naturally flowing expression peculiar to the cellulose fibers and having a good feel is obtained. The surface of this woven fabric is uniformly filled with a portion dyed deeply a and a portion dyed light b. A high quality fabric was obtained which was very close to the mixed spot dyeing.

【0018】[0018]

【発明の効果】本発明は上記のようにセルローズ系繊維
からなる長繊維追撚糸及び紡績地撚り糸を加撚方向に所
定加撚数で追撚し、この追撚した糸をチーズ状にして染
色し、前記追撚方向とは逆方向に所定回撚数で解撚した
ので、ロットが大きく且つ見込みリスクのある従来のト
ップ染めによる糸染め方法に比し小ロッドでも任意の色
の染色が可能のためユーザーの希望する色で即斑染調の
糸を生産することができる。
As described above, according to the present invention, a long-fiber post-twisted yarn and a spun ground twisted yarn made of cellulosic fibers are twisted in a twisting direction at a predetermined twist number, and the twisted yarn is dyed into a cheese shape. However, since it is untwisted with a predetermined number of twists in the direction opposite to the above-mentioned additional twisting direction, it is possible to dye any color with a small rod as compared to the conventional yarn dyeing method with top dyeing that has a large lot and there is a prospective risk. Therefore, it is possible to produce spot-dyed yarn in the color desired by the user.

【0019】また1回当たりのロットが大で染料の染着
より付着が大きいため染色堅牢度が低い従来のインヂゴ
染めによる糸染め方法に比し、本染色法は上述の如く強
撚した糸を浸染法で染色時間を長く保ったので加工後の
色の脱落もなく、表面染色堅牢度も著しく改善されてい
る。また、糸を綛状糸束にして部分的に染色するスペッ
ク染めに比し、本染色法はチーズ染めのため工程が短縮
されることによりコスト安となり、スペック染めの最大
の問題点である織編物の欠点につながる均一性も著しく
向上する秀れたセルローズ系繊維の斑染調糸の製造法と
なる。
Further, in comparison with the conventional thread dyeing method by indigo dyeing, which has a large lot per one time and has more adhesion than dyeing of dye, the dyeing fastness is low, as compared with the conventional thread dyeing method by indigo dyeing. Since the dyeing time was kept long by the dip dyeing method, there was no loss of color after processing and the surface dyeing fastness was remarkably improved. In addition, compared to spec dyeing, which uses yarns in a weave-like yarn bundle and dyes them partially, this dyeing method saves cost because the process is shortened because it is cheese dyeing, and the biggest problem with spec dyeing is weaving. This is a method for producing an excellent spot dyeing yarn of cellulosic fibers in which the uniformity leading to the defects of the knitted fabric is significantly improved.

【0020】また、上記糸を使用して製織編し、糊抜
き,バイオ加工,柔軟加工して織編物を製作すると、小
ロッドであってもユーザーのニーズに適合した任意の色
の染色堅牢度の高い織編物が得られるとともに、濃染着
された部分と淡染着された部分とがほぼ均一に入り混じ
った斑染に極めて近い高品位で自然に流れるような表情
をもった織編物が得られる。
Further, when a woven or knitted product is produced by using the above yarns for weaving and knitting, desizing, bioprocessing, and softening, a dyeing fastness of any color suitable for the user's needs is obtained even with a small rod. A high-quality woven and knitted fabric is obtained, and a woven and knitted fabric with a look that naturally flows with a high quality that is extremely close to spot dyeing in which the deeply dyed part and the lightly dyed part are almost evenly mixed and mixed. can get.

【図面の簡単な説明】[Brief description of drawings]

【図1】セルローズ系繊維からなる紡績地撚り糸の一部
の正面図である。
FIG. 1 is a front view of a part of a spun ground twisted yarn made of cellulosic fiber.

【図2】上記糸を加撚方向に追撚し、チーズ状にして染
色した糸の一部の正面図である。
FIG. 2 is a front view of a part of a yarn in which the yarn is further twisted in a twisting direction to form a cheese and dyed.

【図3】上記を追撚方向とは逆方向に所定回撚数で解撚
した糸の一部の正面図である。
FIG. 3 is a front view of a part of a yarn obtained by untwisting the above with a predetermined number of twists in a direction opposite to the additional twisting direction.

─────────────────────────────────────────────────────
─────────────────────────────────────────────────── ───

【手続補正書】[Procedure amendment]

【提出日】平成5年7月14日[Submission date] July 14, 1993

【手続補正1】[Procedure Amendment 1]

【補正対象書類名】明細書[Document name to be amended] Statement

【補正対象項目名】0013[Correction target item name] 0013

【補正方法】変更[Correction method] Change

【補正内容】[Correction content]

【0013】[0013]

【実施例】セルローズ系繊維からなる長繊維追撚糸及び
紡績地撚り糸を加撚方向に所定加撚数で追撚する。発明
者は、多数のセルローズ系繊維よりなる長繊維追撚糸及
び紡績地撚りの糸で追撚数の実験を行い、加撚範囲を 10600<K1<36000 ここで K1=√D×T D =加工デニール T =加撚数(地撚数+追撚数)T/m とするのが最適であることを見出し、この追撚された糸
をチーズ状にして染色すると、浸染時に糸の繊維に膨潤
が起こり、染料により糸表面が濃染着aされ、糸の内部
は糸が追撚されているため内部に行く程淡染着bする。
この糸を前記追撚方向とは逆に解撚して解撚後の撚数T
を √D×地撚数<K2<27000 K2=√D×T D =加工デニール T =解撚後の撚数T/m の範囲に解撚すると、糸内部の淡染着bが糸の表面にラ
ンダムに出現し、糸表面に濃染着aされた部分と淡染着
bされた部分とがほぼ均一に入り混じって発現され斑染
に極めて近い糸が生成される。
Example A long-fiber additional twisted yarn and a spun ground twisted yarn made of cellulosic fibers are additionally twisted in a predetermined twisting number in a twisting direction. The inventor conducted an experiment on the number of additional twists with a long-fiber additional twist yarn and a spun ground twist yarn composed of a large number of cellulosic fibers, and set a twisting range to 10600 <K 1 <36000 where K 1 = √D × TD = Processed denier T = The number of twists (the number of ground twists + the number of additional twists) T / m was found to be optimal, and when these additional twisted yarns were dyed into cheese, the fibers of the yarns were dyed during dyeing. Swelling occurs, and the surface of the yarn is deeply dyed a by the dye, and the inside of the yarn is further twisted.
This yarn is untwisted in the direction opposite to the additional twisting direction, and the number of twists T after untwisting is T
Is untwisted within a range of √D × number of ground twists <K 2 <27,000 K 2 = √D × TD = processed denier T = number of twists T / m after untwisting, the light dyeing b inside the yarn Appearing at random on the surface of the yarn, and the portion dyed a and the portion dyed light b on the surface of the yarn are almost uniformly mixed and expressed, and a yarn very similar to spot dyeing is generated.

───────────────────────────────────────────────────── フロントページの続き (51)Int.Cl.6 識別記号 庁内整理番号 FI 技術表示箇所 D06B 3/09 ─────────────────────────────────────────────────── ─── Continuation of the front page (51) Int.Cl. 6 Identification code Internal reference number FI technical display location D06B 3/09

Claims (2)

【特許請求の範囲】[Claims] 【請求項1】 セルローズ系繊維からなる長繊維追撚糸
及び紡績地撚り糸を加撚方向に所定加撚数で追撚し、こ
の追撚した糸をチーズ状にして染色し、前記追撚方向と
は逆方向に所定回撚数で解撚したことを特徴とするセル
ローズ系繊維の斑染調糸の製造法。
1. A long-fiber additional twisted yarn and a spun ground twisted yarn composed of cellulosic fibers are twisted in a predetermined twisting number in a twisting direction, and the twisted yarn is dyed into a cheese shape and dyed in the twisting direction. Is a process for producing a spot-dyed yarn of cellulose fibers, which comprises untwisting a predetermined number of times in the opposite direction.
【請求項2】 請求項1記載の糸を使用して織物若しく
は編物を形成したことを特徴とする織編物。
2. A woven or knitted fabric formed by using the yarn according to claim 1 to form a woven or knitted fabric.
JP5149056A 1993-06-21 1993-06-21 Production of unlevelly dyed yarn of cellulose fibers and woven or knitted fabric using the yarn Pending JPH0711532A (en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP5149056A JPH0711532A (en) 1993-06-21 1993-06-21 Production of unlevelly dyed yarn of cellulose fibers and woven or knitted fabric using the yarn

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP5149056A JPH0711532A (en) 1993-06-21 1993-06-21 Production of unlevelly dyed yarn of cellulose fibers and woven or knitted fabric using the yarn

Publications (1)

Publication Number Publication Date
JPH0711532A true JPH0711532A (en) 1995-01-13

Family

ID=15466707

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
JP5149056A Pending JPH0711532A (en) 1993-06-21 1993-06-21 Production of unlevelly dyed yarn of cellulose fibers and woven or knitted fabric using the yarn

Country Status (1)

Country Link
JP (1) JPH0711532A (en)

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP3186681U (en) * 2013-08-08 2013-10-17 水野ミリナー株式会社 Spec dyed washi thread hat
JP2014137402A (en) * 2013-01-15 2014-07-28 Japan Oclaro Inc Optical module and optical transceiver

Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPS4981648A (en) * 1972-12-16 1974-08-06

Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPS4981648A (en) * 1972-12-16 1974-08-06

Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JP2014137402A (en) * 2013-01-15 2014-07-28 Japan Oclaro Inc Optical module and optical transceiver
JP3186681U (en) * 2013-08-08 2013-10-17 水野ミリナー株式会社 Spec dyed washi thread hat

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