JPH0683728U - Interlining structure of clothes - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] [Purpose] To provide an interlining having a shape with a sufficient volume feeling by giving a soft fitting property to a three-dimensional concave-convex curved portion of a body to an interlining of clothes. [Structure] Reinforcement interlinings 5, 5 ', 5 having darts 2, 2', 2 "on portions of the base core 1 corresponding to the irregularities and curves of the body
'' Is bonded to the dot type and the sinter type with an adhesive, and the uneven shape that matches the body shape in a predetermined direction is given by heating with a steam iron and a humidifying press to three-dimensionally deform, and an appropriate three-dimensional volume. Try to give a feeling. [Effect] With a flat cloth, it gives a soft volume feeling to the uneven parts and curved parts of the three-dimensional body shape and gives a sufficient fit, giving a suit, jacket, coat, etc. a natural three-dimensional effect. In addition, the product value can be increased without any loss of activity, and the interlining can retain its inherent sufficient strength, rigidity, and flexible function.

Description

[Detailed description of the device]

[0001]

[Industrial applications]

 The disclosed technology is an interlining structure composed of a plurality of suits, jackets, coats, and the like, which have strength, rigidity, and flexibility, and at the same time, show curved and uneven portions so as to retain the shape of a soft silhouette. Belongs to the technical field of.

[0002]

[Prior art]

 As is well known, various industries have become prosperous individually and as a whole, and as a result, the lives of citizens have been significantly improved, and the quantitative and formal levels of food, clothing and shelter have been met to a considerable extent. Inevitably, further qualitative improvements are being demanded, and in eating habits, the feeling of gastronomy and satiety are increasing recently. There is a strong demand for not only the cold protection function and the coolness function that cover the interior, but also the fashionability that is visually appealing and the design characteristics such as elegant collection.

With the expansion of the radius of action, it is welcomed that the above-mentioned cold-prevention property and coolness of clothes are active not only in various daily production lives but also in personal life and leisure use. Therefore, the momentum, the traditional traditional Japanese clothes (there are various advantages of the original Japanese clothes itself), the clothes became the center of the clothes, and even in the nightwear, it became a group in the bedroom. Even in daily life, such as when pajamas are used instead of nightwear so as to respond to beds being used instead, westernization is gradually progressing regardless of whether it is for day or night.

By the way, in such clothes, it is required not only to cover the body but also to be able to follow various behaviors such as bending and stretching of various parts of the body to imitate free and flexible manners. It is extremely important not only to design but also to fit so that it will not hinder this. Even if there is a cloth, the cloth as a material should be a flat cloth (including woven cloth and non-woven cloth) and formed into a shape that covers the three-dimensional surface of the three-dimensional body due to its two-dimensional characteristics. Is something that doesn't fit in originally.

However, technically, clothing has traditionally been mainly used in the manufacture of clothes including Japanese clothes and clothes, and even in the technology of manufacturing clothes, the sewing is historically extremely long, and Since it is one of the oldest in various industries in terms of fields, various research and development of processing technology for optimally covering a three-dimensional body using such a two-dimensional woven cloth have been made recently. It is becoming possible to show clothes that have a highly developed, three-dimensional and attractive silhouette.

[0006] However, the soft feeling of the cloth as a cloth and the texture such as the tactile feel of the cloth have a strong familiarity and are extremely deeply popular. Therefore, the clothes based on the sewing to the cloth are used. Tailoring is now the mainstream of garment production, but the clothes with the above-mentioned vertical silhouette require mass production or manual work, and at the beginning require extremely skillful and costly due to lack of manpower. Inviting high.

[0007] Therefore, this point becomes a bottleneck of distribution, and the demand is sluggish depending on the type of clothes.

[0008] In addition, the clothes have a lining or the like for the outer material in terms of the feel of the appearance, the soft feeling when worn, the texture, and the strength, durability, and shape retention. They are also sewn together, but in order to prevent wrinkles, discoloration, and loss of shape due to fatigue of the fabric due to cleaning, frequent chests, closets, etc., a specified interlining is inserted between the outer and lining fabrics. Therefore, it is essential for sewing clothes to maintain the strength and rigidity of the clothes and to provide them with sufficient shape retention for a long time.

Due to the two-dimensionality of the woven fabric including the outer material, the lining material, and the interlining material, the shape of the curved portion or the uneven portion that covers the three-dimensional body surface of the body is maintained and the volume, softness, and smoothness are improved. In order to bring out an eaves feeling and to have a desirable silhouette for a long time, the same processing means as molding of a three-dimensional product through drawing from the panel in various metal products in the mechanical industry is applied to the fabric. The so-called darts technology has been considered optimal because it cannot be physically performed.

That is, as is well known to those skilled in the art, this kind of darts technique is a V-cut type which is given to a single-layered or multi-layered interlining having predetermined strength, rigidity, flexibility and the like. Zigzag sewn by squeezing the darts (cuts) and tacking with threads is used, and the darts silhouette of the interlining is used for the outer material and lining through the flexibility of the woven cloth to the body. It is designed to have a three-dimensional fit.

That is, as shown in FIG. 9, the darts 2, 2 ′, 2 ″ having a predetermined size and shape are formed on the curved portion corresponding to the desired portion (such as the uneven curved surface of the body) on the interlining 1 of the pedestal. In advance, squeeze it (close the darts) and sew it in a zigzag sewn 3 for temporary fixing, and then add a reinforcing interlining 4 such as a breast pad and a shoulder pad core. By attaching them, etc., as much as possible a concavo-convex portion and a curved portion are exposed, and the reinforcement of the darts 2, 2 ', 2' 'is controlled by the reinforcing interlining 4. It was

[0012] Depending on the clothes, a double-layered or triple-layered multi-layered polymer core is appropriately used for such a core or reinforcing interlining by using felt, slake, or the like.

[0013]

[Problems to be solved by the device]

 By the way, as described above, clothes have a fitting property that closely follows the concave and convex portions and curved portions of the three-dimensional body surface from the two-dimensional cloth, and has a soft volume feeling (conversely Since it is desired that the shape is slim, it is necessary to form a large-sized or small-sized curved portion such as a shoulder, a chest, and a waist in a three-dimensional manner through darts. There is no choice but to increase the size of the darts in the interlining (of course, there is also a mode of small size). Therefore, it is natural that the strength and rigidity of the interlining in the darts and its peripheral parts are lowered. It had the drawback that it could become easier and reduce the original functions of the interlining.

In addition, for the bust, waist, hips and other back of women's clothing, darts can be used to create unevenness with a large three-dimensional volume in a relatively narrow front and side area. In addition, in order to make use of a naive and delicate curved surface, it is necessary to increase the integration density of the darts, which requires a number of complicated steps and requires considerable skill. This has the disadvantage of increasing personnel costs and material costs, which leads to higher costs. Moreover, widening the temporary tack seams gives the darts a hard intuition and gives a soft and naive sillette. In addition, the so-called “escape” is likely to occur in a certain direction, and the ground has a tendency to bend easily, which easily causes punctures and ekubo. There was also a disadvantage that it was easy to get caught.

In particular, when the width and size of the darts 2, 2 ′, 2 ″ are large, the tip of the darts 2, 2 ′, 2 ″ has a three-dimensional curved surface, and the darts 2, 2 ′, 2 ″ have a pyramidal shape. As a result, it is difficult to mold into a preferable dome shape or cone cave shape, and there is also a problem that the strong needs of users cannot be met.

[0016] Therefore, in the recent interlining material, there is a mode in which a plurality of interlining main bodies made of cloth having various excellent physical properties are polymerized to form a bonding layer, and all the interlining main bodies are used. Since a phenomenon such as a pull-up occurs when integrated by temporary attachment and sewing (although it can be covered by a person skilled in the art, of course), so-called adhesive stitching technology for mutually joining with a predetermined adhesive is also used. Although devised, this type of embodiment has a drawback that the soft feeling is impaired in matching the outer material and the inner material due to the time-dependent drying and hardening of the adhesive, resulting in an irregular small pitch fold. There is an inconvenience that it causes baldness and the position of the shoulder tip tends to become unstable when a shoulder bath is attached, resulting in a so-called uneven feeling and impairing the texture of the cloth.

There is also a minor point that distortion is likely to occur when sewing a slake, distortion is likely to occur when a chest bus felt is applied, escape is likely to occur, and the volume feeling is non-uniform as a result.

Further, there is a negative point that the technique is not improved until it is replaced with the traditional core sewing, and it is not suitable for actual sewing.

This was the same for the front body, the return, and the upper collar portion of the clothes regardless of men's clothes or women's clothes.

[0020] For the part where such a sense of volume of the shoulders, bust, waist and hips as well as the fashionableness that creates a three-dimensional effect by following the delicate lines of the body is extremely important This is a fatal and serious problem especially for women's clothing, because it has a problem that has a significant impact on the product value from the standpoint of the balance of items.

[0021]

[The purpose of the device]

 The purpose of the invention of this application is to make subtle unevenness and curved portions naturally appear regardless of the size of shoulder, chest, waist (front), etc. of clothes based on the above-mentioned conventional technique. The technical issue that should be solved is the appearance of irregularities in the interlining that basically controls the silhouette, and while maintaining the original strength, rigidity, and flexibility of the interlining, the outer material and lining are retained. The desired curved portion is optimally provided to adequately maintain fit to the body having a three-dimensional curved surface, and a soft and sufficient three-dimensional volume feeling is appropriately provided as desired. Flexible behavior It does not provide an excellent interlining structure for clothes that benefits the field of design technology use in the apparel industry by providing fashionability and dignified haute couture. It is intended to.

[0022]

[Means and actions for solving the problem]

 In order to solve the above-mentioned problems, the composition of the invention of this application, which has the above-mentioned purpose as a gist of the utility model registration claim, is made in order to solve the above-mentioned problems when the clothes are made in a predetermined design that matches the body. Or, the front body of the interlining, which is installed by being interposed between the outer material and the lining, the body part, the upper collar part, the shoulder part, the curved part such as the front part (girth part), the bust, the waist, etc. When revealing the three-dimensional shape of the unevenness, it has a volume feeling following the curve (curved surface) of the body, has a sufficient fit to the body, and forms a soft and delicate shape. It has uniform strength, rigidity, and flexibility such as having different elasticity, and the interlining such as a wick and a reinforcing core is made evenly flat by applying and impregnating a predetermined adhesive, and also in a dot shape. , Sinter (striped), striped, It is applied in the form of a roll, using a so-called convex molding press or concave molding press, open the darts that have been formed in advance and set by vacuuming, pinch the darts, polymerize the adhesive core, place the core on the trowel surface, Heating with a steam iron or steam iron, shoulder press through a humidifying press, convex forming press for waist darts, etc. by a convex forming press or concave forming press to attach it in a single layer or a predetermined multi-layered multi-layered form, at that time, depending on the design Depending on the situation, the interlining body or the reinforcing core is also sewn with a predetermined temporary tack together with the base, and the roll-shaped curl is also provided with the base through expansion and contraction of the interlining body in the desired direction. As a result, a curved surface shape is formed that conforms well to the concavo-convex and curved parts of the body, and the three-dimensional silhouette with a natural feel as designed is sewn by sewing the outer material and lining by sewing in the next step. It is intended that took technical means to be able to cloth of clothing with the minute.

[0023]

【Example】

 Next, an embodiment of the invention of this application will be described below with reference to FIGS.

It should be noted that the same aspects as those in FIG. 9 will be described using the same reference numerals.

The embodiment shown in FIGS. 1 to 3 is a principle mode of the invention of the present application, and a certain material forming the interlining, for example, the front of the core 1'of wool, hair, cotton, rayon or the like. As shown in FIG. 1, a predetermined material having a large stretchability in the lateral direction with respect to a portion (for example, a waistline portion), for example, a reinforcing interlining 5'of polyester, cotton, rayon, etc. It is temporarily attached to the left and right edge portions) by a predetermined adhesive (hatching shown) such as polyamide, for example, a so-called dot type or sinter type permanent adhesive type.

Depending on the design, the reinforcing interlining 5'may be sewn 3 and 3 in a zigzag manner to the pedestal 1'in conjunction with adhesive bonding.

By the way, predetermined darts 2 and 2 ′ ″ are separately provided in the base 1 ′ by design, and the reinforcing interlining 4 is provided in a predetermined portion corresponding to a predetermined portion. .

When the reinforcing interlining 5 is attached to the plateau 1 ′ as shown in FIG. 2, a dot type or a sinter type is applied as described above when interposing an adhesive such as polyamide. Or, in the case of a convex molding press which has been pre-impregnated with a predetermined amount, the core 1'is placed on the trowel surface, and the darts 2 and 2 '' 'are opened in accordance with the shoulder girth and set by the bag machine. Heat bonding (permanent bonding) F is performed with the iron or steam iron or the like through a cloth and an adhesive core.

Then, in the concave press, set the shoulder bath to the point, then set the chest bus in the same way, set the special adhesive core on the hem, and then overlay the special adhesive core on the chest bus. And press.

Therefore, in this embodiment, for example, since the elasticity in the lateral direction is large with respect to the longitudinal direction, the heat shrinkability in the lateral direction after heat bonding by the press F with the steam iron is high. Due to its large size, in a mode in which the reinforcing interlining 5'is attached to the back side of the pedestal 1 ', it curls outwardly at the front part (girth part), and the outside of the three-dimensional body is curled. Sufficient fitting property will be exhibited by adapting to the curved shape of the protruding shape.

Further, as shown in FIG. 2, the darts 2 and 2 ′ ″ are in the state of a vacuum set, including the periphery thereof, and are opened by the knob. As the set posture is maintained, a three-dimensional volumetric silhouette of the shoulders, chest, etc. is formed smoothly as shown in FIG.

In the interlining structure of the single (or double) type men's suit for clothing clothes shown in FIGS. 4, 5 and 6 according to the principle mode, the front part (the waist part) of the base 1 is used. Curl and lapel part, that is, in the upper collar part, in order to prevent so-called splashing, just roll it inward and curl in one direction to give good fit. Also, in order to appropriately swell the roundness of the shoulder part, use a predetermined material on the front and back sides, such as polyester, cotton, rayon, etc., to increase the lateral expansion and contraction. Even in the part (girth part), in order to prevent pilling in the front edge, a predetermined interlining 5 with large lateral stretch, for example, polyester, cotton, rayon, etc. Sewing of temporary fixing at the edge In addition to applying (if unnecessary), place the core 1 on the trowel surface to perform the convex molding press, first open the darts 2 with a predetermined amount of shoulder girth, set with vacuum, set with this cloth tape shape The adhesive core of the above is set above or below, and the reinforcing interlinings 5, 5 ', 5, 4 are joined in a dot type through adhesive impregnation, and in this case, the reinforcing interlining 5', shoulder 7 Similarly, the reinforcing interlining 4 of No. 1 is also joined by the dot type through the adhesive, and humidification by steam iron and heat press are applied to roll the upper collar portion, that is, the lapel portion by curling. As shown in 6, gripping the darts 2 and 2'and bringing the darts together to bond the adhesive core 8 to the dot type to make the shoulder 7 round, and to give a laterally protruding curve to prevent reverse warpage. Shaped, and the concave shaped press for shoulder and chest buses is practical Performed in the same manner, given the irregularities that matches the body to the shoulder to grant an overall sufficient three-dimensional sense of volume, thereby revealing a soft texture.

In this embodiment, an adhesive such as polyamide is applied between both the base 1 and the interlinings 5, 5 ′, or each interlining 5, 5 ′ is of dot type (permanent type), or Can be impregnated with a sinter type (temporary adhesive type) or the like, and further, can be applied in a laterally striped, concentric or spiral form.

Then, the darts 2, 2 ′ formed at a predetermined portion of the base 1 have a predetermined size, and the reinforcing interlining 4 is attached as a shoulder reinforcing core and a chest reinforcing core.

In this way, the lapel portion of the upper collar is sufficiently prevented from splashing and reverse warpage is eliminated, and the front portion (girth portion) is provided with the three-dimensionality at the hem portion, and the shoulder portion, The chest is rounded, giving it a soft, three-dimensional appearance with a voluminous feel that mimics the body.

Next, the embodiment shown in FIG. 7 also has a double (or single) type suiting interlining structure, but it is substantially the same as the above embodiment.

Thus, the embodiment shown in FIG. 8 is an embodiment of the interlining structure of the clothing material of women's clothing (a men's clothing can be used). There are many, for example, three-dimensional soft and voluminous parts of the bust part, in order to bring out the appearance (to suit the size) of the lady in question (on the upper collar part 6 and the bust part, as well as the front part (waist)) Stretching of the weft in the transverse direction (oblique direction depending on the design) is made larger than that in the longitudinal direction, and in the present embodiment, an adhesive such as a polyamide to the reinforcing cores 5 '' and 5 '' 'and the core 1. Darts that are applied or impregnated with concentric circles, spirals, or spirals, and at the same time do not cause as hard and intuitive sewing as possible. (For women's clothing, the shape and amount are men's clothing. (Of course different from the case of It is not a projecting shape over the strike part, but a dome-like rich (naive) bust volume feeling, and yet a soft fit that matches the bust part of the body To

In the embodiment, it is needless to say that an interlining structure for imparting undulations, squeezing of uneven curved surfaces, or swelling can be added to the waist from the hem of the clothes to the hips.

Needless to say, the embodiment of the invention of the present application is not limited to the above-mentioned embodiments, and for example, the swelling part, the waist part (particularly in women's clothing), and the shoulder part are inflated. Various modes such as being applicable to the exposed interlining structure can be adopted.

It is also applicable to the case where an uneven interlining structure is used in order to prevent expansion and contraction due to repeated bending and stretching behavior of the knees and thighs of the pants of men's clothing in advance.

[0041]

[Effect of device]

 As described above, according to the invention of this application, an interlining structure that basically determines the basic shape of clothes for covering a three-dimensional uneven body with a cloth having a strong flatness and retains it with time is provided. When attaching the reinforcing interlining to the core, the dot type of adhesive and the application or impregnation of the sinter type are used for joining, and there is no hard intuition due to temporary fixing using the sewing machine of the conventional mode. Depending on the difference in the size of the darts at the time, it gives a desired direction or a three-dimensional uneven curvature, and the naive uneven shape by adhesion gives a solid fit to the body shape sufficiently, and a three-dimensional volume A soft and soft texture can be added, and the upper collar is prevented from splashing and reverse warping is prevented. In addition, the roll property of the front part (girth part) is given to the cloth in advance by curling. Because you can also do that, It is possible to make the clothes have a soft texture with a volume feeling that has a sufficient fit to the three-dimensional body shape due to the uniform curve fit that requires no skill, and wears the outer material and lining in an integrated manner. The feel of the hair is made by making good use of the merit of the core manufacturing method, and it has the excellent effect of giving a good appearance without any discomfort as clothes that look good and have a three-dimensional appearance.

Further, since the adhesive is uniformly or entirely applied to the darts, or selectively and partially applied, impregnated, and patterned, the darts can be formed by interposing the adhesive so that a line or a curved surface of the body is formed. The excellent effect that the design can be diversified by faithfully following the delicate part or by intentionally designing the part is achieved.

There is also an effect that the advantages of adhesion and hair core sewing can be used together by using the temporary design together with the sewing design.

Such clothes have a soft volume feeling on the collar and front (the waist) of the suit, jacket and coat, shoulders and chest, and the delicate and naive volume of the bust, waist and hips of women's clothing. It has the excellent effect of enhancing the commercial value by fully emphasizing the feeling, good appearance, good fashionability, and sufficient behavior in accordance with activities.

In this way, there is an advantage that it can stimulate the apparel industry, which is more monotonous than before, and the motivation of the buyer to purchase, and the number of sewing machines can be reduced. There is also the merit that it is possible to reduce the cost, promote the omission, and reduce the cost.

Further, when sewing, a humidifying and heating press using a trowel or a steam iron is used. Since such an iron press is the same as the conventional process, the number of processes is not particularly increased and the cost is also reduced. There is also an advantage that it does not significantly increase.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a schematic perspective view of an embodiment of the principle embodiment of the device of the present application.

FIG. 2 is a perspective view showing the joint between the core and the reinforcing interlining.

FIG. 3 is a perspective view of a reinforcing interlining with respect to a core.

FIG. 4 is a schematic perspective view of an embodiment of an interlining structure of a suit of a men's clothing single (double) type.

FIG. 5 is a schematic diagram of darts processing.

FIG. 6 is a schematic diagram of darts processing.

FIG. 7 is a schematic perspective view of an interlining structure for a suit of a men's clothing double (single) type.

FIG. 8 is a schematic perspective view of an interlining structure of women's clothing.

FIG. 9 is a schematic plan view of an interlining structure based on a conventional technique.

[Explanation of symbols]

 1 core 5,5 'Reinforced interlining

Claims (9)

[Scope of utility model registration request] 1. In an interlining structure of clothes in which a plurality of interlining layers of interlining materials including a darts portion are interposed integrally between an outer material and a lining, each interlining material is bonded to each other. An interlining structure for clothes, which is non-planarly polymer-bonded through an agent. 2. The interlining structure for clothes according to claim 1, wherein the joining is performed through at least one of a heating press and a humidifying press. 3. The interlining structure for clothes according to claim 1, wherein the adhesive is applied to the interlining material by at least one of coating and impregnation. . 4. An interlining structure for clothes according to claim 1, wherein the interlining materials are temporarily sewn together with a thread. 5. The interlining structure for clothes according to claim 1, wherein the direction of expansion and contraction of the interlining material is different for each layer. 6. The interlining structure for clothes according to claim 1, wherein the interposition of the adhesive is formed in a dot shape or a sinter shape. 7. A utility model registration claim characterized in that the interposition of the adhesive is formed in a stripe shape.
Interlining structure of clothes according to item. 8. The interlining structure for clothes as claimed in claim 7, wherein the interposition of the adhesive is formed in a concentric circle shape or a sinter (separate shape). 9. The interlining structure for clothes according to claim 7, wherein the interposition of the adhesive is concentric or spiral.