JPH08176912A - Interlining cloth structure for dress - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE: To prevent the breast of a dress from slackening or wrinkling liable to generate from the neck zone to the arm hole zone to give soft curls and bring about a voluminous feeling. CONSTITUTION: An unstretchable reinforcing core 8 which can suppress the cloth stretching is bonded to a part from neck to arm hole 10 between a reinforcing core 5' for the front of a base interlining cloth and a shoulder pad 7, and is temporarily tacked. Since the stretching is suppressed in the part from the neck to the arm hole and the strength is increased, no deviation or wrinkle occurs even after repeated dressing, hanging in the closet and frequent cleaning.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[Industrial application] The disclosed technology is that clothes such as suits and coats have strength, rigidity, and flexibility, as well as chest curvature,
It belongs to the technical field of interlining structure consisting of layers that show irregularities so as to have shape retention of a soft silhouette.

[0002]

2. Description of the Related Art As is well known, various industries individually
In addition, as a whole, it has become prosperous, and as a result, civil life has improved remarkably, and if the quantitative and formal levels of clothing, food, and housing are met to a considerable extent, it will inevitably lead to further qualitative improvements. There has been an increasing demand for such improvements, and for example, in eating habits, the feeling of mouth-feeling and satiety are increasing as seen in the recent gourmet boom. In addition to the original cold protection function, coolness function, and scratch resistance function for covering, there is a strong demand for fashionable appearance that is visually appealing and design characteristics such as a sophisticated collection style.

With the expansion of the radius of action, not only the above-mentioned cold-preventing function and cool-feeling function of clothes as described above are not actively opposed not only in various daily production activities but also in private life and leisure use. Warm, vibrant, and more active clothing replaces traditional traditional kimono (although the benefits of the kimono itself are many), and even in the evening, the bedroom In response to the bed being used in place of the troupe, pajamas and nightgowns are used in place of nightwear even in daily life even in the day and night There is.

By the way, in such clothes, not only the body is covered wholly or partially, but also various movements such as bending and bending of each part of the body are followed to imitate a free and flexible manner. In order to avoid obstructing this, designability and fitability are extremely important as well as weight reduction, and in manufacturing it, even if it is mass-produced by an automatic sewing machine, etc. Even if it is an industrial hand-sewn work, the cloth as the original material is a flat cloth (including woven cloth and non-woven cloth), and the three-dimensional surface of the body is three-dimensional due to its two-dimensional characteristics. It is originally unfamiliar to form a shape that covers the above-mentioned shape, and does not hinder the above-mentioned activity.

However, from the technical viewpoint, the garment manufacturing work has traditionally been the mainstream of the traditional sewing work irrespective of whether it is used for east or west purposes. Even in the clothing manufacturing technology, the sewing work is historically extremely long. Also, in terms of the technical field, the apparel industry is one of the oldest among various industries, and therefore, a processing technique for optimally covering a three-dimensional body using such a two-dimensional woven fabric has been available for a long time. It has become possible to develop clothes that have undergone various research and development and have developed a highly sophisticated three-dimensional and beautiful silhouette these days.

[0006] However, the soft feeling of the cloth as a cloth, and the texture such as the tactile naive texture has a strong familiarity with the body and is extremely deeply popular. Therefore, the cloth is sewn to the cloth. Although the tailoring of clothes based on it is now the mainstream of the production of grace clothes, the clothes with the above-mentioned three-dimensional silhouette need to be mass-produced or hand-manufactured. This has led to higher costs, and is a bottleneck for mass production, not to mention the research and development of clothes that are light, soft and have a long and voluminous feel, which is being touted recently.

[0007] Therefore, such a point is one of the obstacles to the distribution, and the demand is sluggish depending on the kind of clothes.

[0008] In addition, the clothes have a lining or the like for the outer material in terms of the feel of the appearance, the softness and feel of the wear, and the strength, durability, shape retention, etc. It is sewn together, but to prevent wrinkles, discoloration, and shape loss due to fatigue of the cloth due to cleaning, frequent chests, closets, etc., depending on the frequency of use,
It is indispensable for sewing clothes to maintain a strength and rigidity by interposing a predetermined interlining between the outer material and the lining and to maintain the shape retention as long as possible. Has been done.

Due to the two-dimensionality of the woven fabric including the outer material, the lining material, and the interlining material, the shape of the curved portion and the uneven portion which covers the three-dimensional three-dimensional surface of the body is maintained to give a feeling of volume, softness, and naiveness. In order to bring out the desired silhouette for a long time, the processing means similar to the processing of three-dimensional products through drawing forming processing from panels in various metal products in the mechanical parts manufacturing industry is inherently flexible. The so-called darts technique has been considered optimal because it cannot be physically applied to rich fabrics.

That is, as is well known to those skilled in the art, the single-layer dart technique has a predetermined strength, rigidity, flexibility and the like,
Alternatively, the V-cut darts (cut portion) given to the multi-layered interlining is pinched to perform zigzag stitching which is a temporary tacking process with a thread, and the outer or lining is the interlining. It is designed to have a three-dimensional fit to the body through the flexibility of the woven cloth in the silhouette of the darts.

That is, as shown in FIG. 5, the darts 2, 2 ', 2''of a predetermined size and shape are formed on the curved portion corresponding to the desired portion (such as the curved surface of the body) on the interlining 1 of the pedestal. Is given in advance, and by squeezing it (closing the darts), the sewing 3 such as a zigzag shape for temporary fixing is given, and then a reinforcing interlining 4 such as a bus core of a breast pad and a shoulder pad is attached. The dimples 2, 2 ′ and 2 ″ are reinforced by the reinforcing interlining 4 so that the dimples 2, 2 ′ and 2 ″ can be reconstructed as much as possible by exposing the dimples 2, 2 ′ and 2 ″. .

Depending on the clothes, a double-layered or triple-layered multi-layered polymer core is appropriately adopted by using felt, slake, hair interlining, etc. for the base 1 and the reinforcing interlining 4. Has been done.

[0013]

By the way, as described above, the clothes have a fitting property that is sufficiently conformable from the two-dimensional cloth to the three-dimensional uneven portion and the curved portion of the body surface, and is soft. Since it is desired to have a voluminous feel (conversely, there is also a mode of exhibiting a slim shape), for example, a large-sized or small-sized curved portion such as a shoulder portion, a chest portion, a waist portion or the like is formed through a dart. In order to form the interlocking material, the size of the darts of the interlining is inevitably increased (of course, there is also a mode of small size). Therefore, as a matter of course, the interlining of the darts portion or the peripheral portion thereof. However, it has the drawback that the strength and rigidity of the core tend to decrease and the original function of the interlining may be reduced.

Although there are individual differences in the clothes, the strength and rigidity of the interlining is lowered particularly in the chest bus part due to the pulling action in a certain direction, and due to overlapping cleaning and the like. There is an inconvenience that the temporary fixing thread is broken or misaligned to give a rough feeling.

Further, in order to form a large three-dimensional voluminous unevenness in a relatively small area by means of darts and softly, and also by taking advantage of a delicate curved surface which is naive, the density of the darts should be increased. In addition, it requires a number of complicated steps, and in addition,
There is a disadvantage that it requires high labor cost and material cost because it requires considerable skill, and it has the disadvantage that it leads to cost increase. Moreover, widening the temporary tack sewing gives a hard intuition to the dart part and makes it soft. It is difficult to show a naive silhouette, and in addition, so-called "escape" is likely to occur in a certain direction, the ground is easily bent, so-called puncture or Ekubo is easy to occur, and in addition there is a disadvantage that it is easily twisted. there were.

In recent years, there has been a mode in which a plurality of interlining main bodies made of cloth having various excellent physical properties are polymerized to form a joining layer in the interlining material. In order to integrate the two by temporary attachment and sewing, a phenomenon such as pulling up occurs (of course, it is possible to cover them considerably depending on the skill), however, so-called adhesive sewing in which they are joined to each other through a predetermined adhesive is used. Although a technique has been devised, in this kind of embodiment, there is a drawback that the soft feeling is impaired in the matching of the outer material and the inner material due to the time-dependent drying and curing of the adhesive, and the irregular small-pitch folds are formed. There are inconveniences such as wrinkles, the position of the neck portion becomes unstable when a shoulder bath or chest bath is applied, and a so-called bumpy feel is generated on the chest, which impairs the feel of the clothing material.

When the slake is sewn, distortion is likely to occur, and when the breast bass felt is attached, the same distortion is likely to occur,
There is also a negative point that the escape tends to occur, resulting in an uneven volume feeling.

[0018] Further, there is a negative point that the technical improvement has not been made until it is replaced with the traditional core sewing, and it is not suitable for actual sewing.

This applies not only to the chest bus for clothes, but also to the front body, the back, and the upper collar portion.

[0020] Such a problem is very important for the parts such as the shoulder, bust, waist, and hips, where the volume is felt, and the appearance is very important, such as fashionability, which creates a three-dimensional effect by following the delicate lines of the body. There is a problem that the product value is significantly affected even in terms of the balance of the entire clothes, which is a fatal and serious problem especially for high-grade clothes.

[0021]

OBJECT OF THE INVENTION The object of the invention of the present application is to make subtle uneven portions and curved portions of these parts naturally appear regardless of the size of the shoulder, chest, etc. of the clothes based on the above-mentioned prior art. , The technical problems that should be solved are the unevenness in the interlining that basically controls the silhouette, especially the appearance of the parts in the chest and neck, and the original strength, rigidity, and flexibility of the interlining. While maintaining the function that possesses the property, it optimally gives the desired strength and rigidity to the interlining material and sufficiently retains the fitting property to the body having a three-dimensional curved surface, while being lightweight and soft, it has a sufficient three-dimensional volume feeling. Design technology application field in the apparel industry, which is equipped appropriately with desired features, and in addition to that, has dress-up properties, flexible behavior follow-up properties, and fashionability and dignified haute couture properties. It is intended to provide cents interlining structure of excellent clothes to benefit.

[0022]

In order to solve the above-mentioned problems, the structure of the invention of the present application, which has the above-mentioned object as its gist, has a predetermined design for matching clothes to the body. At the time of producing, the surface material, or, and when the three-dimensional shape of the curved portion of the chest portion of the interlining to be additionally provided by interposing between the outer material, is revealed,
There is a sense of volume following the curve (curved surface) of the body, it has a good fit to the body, and there is no elasticity in a predetermined direction from the neck position to the arm hole bottom direction so as to form a soft and delicate shape. Even though it has a certain strength, rigidity, and flexibility, an interlining material such as a non-expansion reinforcing core is applied in the form of a predetermined adhesive in a uniform tape form between the shoulder core and the front reinforcing core. By using a so-called convex molding press or concave molding press, or with a flash material such as a woven fabric and a non-woven fabric, depending on the design, if necessary, the interlining body or the reinforcing core together with the base is provided with a predetermined amount. Even if temporary stitching is applied, a curved surface shape is formed that is sufficiently compatible with the uneven and curved parts of the body, and frequent use and cleaning are also performed on the outer material and lining material by sewing in the next step. Through Also those that took the technical means to be able to be a cloth of clothes with a sufficiently over time, a three-dimensional silhouette of the natural feel of the street design.

[0023]

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENTS Next, an embodiment of the invention of this application is shown in FIGS.
The explanation is based on the following.

The same parts as in FIG. 5 will be described using the same reference numerals.

The embodiment shown in FIGS. 1 and 2 is a principle mode of the invention of this application, and a predetermined material forming the interlining material, for example,
A predetermined material having a large stretchability in the lateral direction with respect to the front part (for example, the waist part) of the core 1'of wool, hair, cotton, rayon, etc., for example, a reinforcing interlining 5'of polyester, cotton, rayon, etc. As shown in FIG. 1, a predetermined portion (in the embodiment, left and right edge portions) is temporarily attached with a predetermined adhesive such as polyamide, for example, a so-called dot type (permanent type) or a sinter type (temporary adhesive type). )
It is glued in.

Depending on the design, the core 1'is provided with a reinforcing interlining 5
'To join the adhesive joint and sew in a zigzag shape for temporary fixing 3
You may keep it.

A predetermined darts 2 may be provided in the core 1'by design, and a reinforcing interlining 4 such as a shoulder bus or chest bus may be provided corresponding to a predetermined portion. .

When the reinforcing interlining 5'shown in FIG. 1 is attached to the pedestal 1 ', a polyamide amide or the like is interposed between the shoulder core 7 and the reinforced core 5'in the diagonal direction of the chest core. As described above, the stretch-preventing reinforcing core 8 is applied in a dot type or a sinter type from the neck portion 7'to the armhole portion 10 as described above, or is preliminarily impregnated in advance and is heat-bonded by a steam iron etc. in a convex molding press. (Permanent adhesion) is done.

In this principle mode, the expansion preventing reinforcing core 8 is attached in a tape shape in FIG. 1 and in a block shape in FIG.

Therefore, in the principle mode, for example, the expansion preventing reinforcing core 8 in the oblique direction is made to have elasticity in a direction opposite to the oblique direction, so that heat bonding by pressing with the steam iron is performed. After that, since the heat shrinkability in the opposite direction is great, in the mode in which the stretch-preventing reinforcing core 8 is attached to the back side of the pedestal 1 ', it curls outwardly in the chest (girth). As a result, the three-dimensional body adapts to the outwardly projecting curved shape to exhibit a sufficient fit property, and extension in the oblique direction is prevented, and deformation due to shear deformation is also prevented.

Next, the embodiment shown in FIG. 3 will be described. In the case of a single type suit core interlining 1 ', a front reinforcing core 5'is formed by an adhesive method in the same manner as in the conventional general method. It is attached so that it can be curled.

From the neck portion 7'on the opposite side to the armhole portion 10, the shoulder additional core 7 and the chest additional core 4 are provided.
Are also attached by an adhesive method. These adhesive methods are dot type or sinter type methods to give a predetermined curl state a sense of volume.

Further, in the neck portion 7 ', the core 2 is cut open in a predetermined manner to provide darts, and a lock stitch 3 is provided.

In this embodiment, a substantially triangular stretch-preventing reinforcing core 8 interposed between the base core 1 ', the shoulder core add-on 7, and the chest core add-on 4 is indicated by the arrow. It is also integrally attached by a dot type or a sinter type with anti-stretchability in the diagonal direction.

In some cases, a woven fabric and a non-woven flash material are integrally attached.

Ironing when adhering these cores causes the volume of curls of the chest to be loose in the diagonal direction opposite to the diagonal expansion stop from the neck side to the armhole direction. However, in the case of the reinforcing core 8 extending in the direction of stopping the expansion from the neck portion 7'to the armhole portion 10, the wear core is frequently worn, and the drawers and closets are frequently taken in and out, or Even with repeated cleaning, the expansion stop in the direction is maintained, and wrinkles and uneven feeling in the expansion stop direction are prevented.

Next, in the embodiment shown in FIG. 4, the stretch-preventing reinforcing core 8 is formed in a pentagonal block shape, unlike the substantially tape-like reinforcement core in the embodiment shown in FIG. However, the substantial operational effects are the same as those in the above-described embodiment.

Even if the suit is worn repeatedly on a daily basis in the above construction, the neck portion 7'to the armhole portion 1
Since the stretch-preventing reinforcing core 8 is attached integrally by a bonding method and a temporary fixing to 0, the neck portion 7 ′, which has been a problem in the related art, is moved from the arm hole portion 10 to the neck portion 7 ′.
The effect of large wrinkles on the back, misalignment between the interlinings, and wrinkles due to misalignment of the temporary sewing thread, etc. does not occur, and the gently curled volume feeling of the chest part is maintained as it was. Is played.

The folds and closets are frequently folded and stored, and the wrinkles similar to those described above do not occur over time from the neck portion 7'to the armhole portion 10 by being stored through a hanger that does not fit well. In addition, even in the case of repeated cleaning, the interlining structure, which is double and triple polymerized, maintains sufficient softness while maintaining a certain level of strength and rigidity, giving the chest a curled volume feeling. There is no loss.

Of course, the embodiment of the invention of this application is not limited to the above-mentioned embodiments. For example, as for the stretch-preventing reinforcing core, a plurality of tapes extending in the stretch-preventing direction from the neck portion to the armhole portion are provided. It is possible to employ various modes such as a plurality of methods can be used.

[0041]

As described above, according to the invention of this application, basically, the neck is made to overlap with the chest core reinforcement between the front core reinforcement attached to the core and the shoulder core reinforcement in the interlining of clothes. The stretch-proof reinforcing core from the part to the armhole part is attached with a dot type or sinter type adhesive method and temporary fixing, so it is most often worn by frequent wearing, storing in a closet or closet, or cleaning. The strength and weakness are given from the neck portion to the armhole portion where wrinkles are likely to occur, so that good strength and rigidity are imparted, and the excellent effect of avoiding the generation of wrinkles and the uneven feeling is exhibited.

Further, since the stretch-preventing reinforcing core is stretch-prevented only in the stretch-preventing direction, in a direction crossing the stretch-preventing reinforcing core, even when a bonding method using a core or a steam iron at the front is adopted, that direction is also concerned. An excellent effect is exhibited in which curl is expressed and a predetermined volume feeling can be softly expressed.

In addition, since an interlocking interlocking material is provided between the base core and the shoulder core augmentation and chest core augmentation, strength and rigidity are imparted to that extent, and the quantity is not so large. The effect is that the software is not damaged and the weight is not increased.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a schematic perspective view of an embodiment of the principle mode of the invention of this application.

FIG. 2 is a perspective view of another embodiment of the same.

FIG. 3 is a schematic perspective view of one embodiment.

FIG. 4 is a schematic perspective view of another embodiment.

FIG. 5 is a schematic perspective view of an interlining according to a conventional technique.

[Explanation of symbols]

 1'Body core 5'Front reinforcement core 7 Shoulder augmentation 4 Chest augmentation 8 Reinforcement core (extension prevention reinforcement core) 7'Neck part 10 Arm hole part

Claims (5)

[Claims] 1. In an interlining structure of clothes in which a reinforcing core is affixed by being laminated on a chest additional core between a front reinforcing core attached to a core and a shoulder additional core, the reinforcing core is predetermined. Interlining structure for clothes, characterized by being a reinforced core that prevents unidirectional stretch. 2. The interlining structure for clothes according to claim 1, wherein the anti-stretch reinforcing core is an adhesive core. 3. The interlining structure for clothes according to claim 1, wherein the anti-stretch reinforcing core retains an anti-stretch function in an oblique direction. 4. The interlining structure for clothes according to claim 3, wherein the reinforcement direction of the stretch-preventing reinforcing core is given a directionality from the neck portion to the armhole portion. 5. The interlining structure for clothes according to claim 3, wherein the stretch-preventing reinforcing core is formed in a tape shape and a block shape.