JPH0633365A - Production of polyester creped woven fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To produce the polyester crepe woven fabric extremely improved in spinning, twisting, weaving and creping properties by melt-spinning a polyester, feeding a specific oiling agent to the spun fibers, drawing the fibers, thermally setting the drawn fibers, and subsequently subjecting the treated fibers to strongly twisting, sizing, weaving and creping treatments. CONSTITUTION:An oiling agent composition liquid at the ordinary temperature and comprising (A) an aliphatic monohydric alcohol ester having a mol.wt. of 550-750, (B) an aromatic ester of the formula (R1, R2 are 8-25C alkyl; A is 2-4C alkylene; (n), (m) are 1, 2) liquid at the ordinary temperature, and (C) an alkylene oxide adduct of a triglyceride having one or more of hydroxyl groups in the molecule as components so as to simultaneously satisfy WA+WB=20 to 75, WC=2 to 15, and WA/WB=95/5 to 60/40, when the WA, WB and WC express the weights (wt.%) of the components A, B and C, is prepared. A polyester is melt-spun, and the produced fibers are oiled with the above-mentioned oiling agent, drawn and subsequently thermally set so as to give a boiling water shrinkage of <=5%. The polyester fibers thus produced are subjected to strongly twisting and sizing treatments, and then woven, and the produced woven fabric is subjected to creping treatment.

Description

Detailed Description of the Invention

[0001]

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION 1. Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a method for producing a polyester textured fabric. More specifically, the present invention relates to a method for producing a polyester grained woven fabric which has good weaving properties at the time of weaving and good grain development at the time of graining.

[0002]

2. Description of the Prior Art To produce a textured fabric from polyester multifilaments, the multifilaments are used in an amount of about 30.
After applying a strong twist of 00 times / m, steaming heat treatment is performed to enhance the weavability of the strong twist yarn, the swirling property of the twist is temporarily fixed, and then sizing is performed, and then the weaving machine obtained by weaving is heated. A method is usually employed in which the twisting property of temporarily fixed strong twisted yarn is re-expressed by relaxation treatment (hereinafter sometimes referred to as RX treatment) in water and the sizing agent is removed. Then, due to the revolving property that is re-developed at this time, uneven textured wrinkles are expressed in the fabric.

[0003]

However, in the case of producing a polyester textured fabric by such a method, if ordinary polyester fibers having a boiling water shrinkage of 7 to 9% or more are used, the strength during RX treatment is increased. The twisting property of the twisted yarn is reduced and the residual torque is also weakened, resulting in insufficient texture and poor texture.

Conventionally, as a method of reducing the boiling water shrinkage of the polyester fiber, a method of raising the heat setting temperature or a method of performing heat setting while relaxing is known. However, in the case of a polyester fiber to which a sizing agent is applied, an oil agent containing a mineral oil or a monovalent ester compound as a main component is added in order to prevent peeling and dropping of the sizing agent. Not only is it unsuitable for heat setting, but it also has the problem of frequent yarn breakage during twisting. In order to improve such heat resistance, if an oil agent having a high molecular weight triglyceride as a main component such as coconut oil or rapeseed oil is added, scum such as desmearing easily occurs in the weaving process. As a method of eliminating such glue removal, a method of applying an oil agent containing a mineral oil as a main component after heat setting has been proposed, but a preferable method in terms of equipment cost, operation management, and a work environment due to oil agent scattering. Is hard to say.

On the other hand, the method of heat setting while relaxing is not preferable because the fiber is run while the tension is relaxed after the drawing, and therefore a tension adjusting roller needs to be installed and the equipment cost increases.

The present invention has been made against the background of the above-mentioned prior art, and an object thereof is to provide a method for inexpensively producing a polyester textured fabric having a good texture.

[0007]

Means for Solving the Problems As a result of intensive studies for achieving the above-mentioned object, the present inventors have found that polyester fibers which have been subjected to drawing heat setting after applying an oil agent having a specific composition have a process stability during weaving. The present inventors have found that a good textured woven fabric can be obtained at a low cost, which is good and suppresses the generation of fluff during strong twisting, and the dropping of the sizing agent during weaving, and arrived at the present invention.

That is, according to the present invention, a polyester fiber which is melt-spun, stretched and heat-set so as to have a boiling water shrinkage of 5% or less after being melt-spun, is subjected to strong twisting and sizing, and is then woven. Then, in the method for producing a textured fabric, which is then subjected to graining treatment, the oil agent contains the following (A) to (C) as essential components and simultaneously satisfies the formulas (I) to (III). A method for producing a polyester textured fabric, characterized in that (A) component is an aliphatic monohydric alcohol ester which is liquid at room temperature and has a molecular weight of 550 to 750 (B) component Aromatic ester which is liquid at room temperature and is represented by the following formula

[0009]

[Chemical 2]

[Wherein R ₁ and R ₂ are alkyl groups having 8 to 25 carbon atoms, A is an alkylene group having 2 to 4 carbon atoms, and n and m are integers of 1 or 2]. ] (C) a liquid at component normal temperature, alkylene oxide adducts of triglyceride having at least one hydroxyl group in the molecule _{(I) W A + W B} = 20~75 (II) W C = 2~15 (III) W _A / W _B = 95/5 to 60/40 [where W _A , W _B and W _C are (A), (B),
And the content (% by weight) of the component (C) with respect to the active ingredient of the oil agent. ] Is provided.

In the present invention, it is necessary to maximize the re-expression of the swirling property in the woven fabric in order to exhibit the excellent wrinkle rising property and wrinkle morphology, and for this purpose, the boiling water shrinkage of the polyester fiber to be used is required. It is important that the rate is 5% or less, preferably 3% or less.

To obtain such polyester fiber,
It is important to perform heat setting at a temperature of 170 ° C. or higher, preferably 190 ° C. or higher after stretching. But on the other hand,
For weaving after sizing, it is said that it is preferable to add an oil agent containing a mineral oil or a low molecular weight monovalent ester as a main component from the viewpoint of preventing the sizing agent from falling off. If the heat treatment is carried out at a high temperature, a lot of smoke will be generated and the working environment will be significantly deteriorated, and more tar will be generated, so that the quality of the obtained product will be deteriorated.

The present inventors have made extensive studies on polyester yarns which are excellent in wrinkle rising property and adhesive property of sizing agent, as well as twisting property during strong twisting and process properties during weaving. It has been found that the one in which the stretching heat setting is performed after applying the specific amount of the oil agent is optimal.

That is, in the present invention, the above (A) to (C)
After the application of an oil agent containing the components as essential components and simultaneously satisfying the formulas (I) to (III), the boiling water shrinkage rate is 5%.
It is important to set the drawing heat so that it becomes as follows.

First, the aliphatic monohydric ester (A) is an ester compound obtained from a monohydric higher alcohol and a monohydric or dihydric aliphatic carboxylic acid, and has a molecular weight of 5
It should be 50 to 750, preferably 600 to 700, and be liquid at room temperature. Specifically, a higher alcohol having 20 to 34 carbon atoms is used as the monohydric higher alcohol, and higher fatty acids such as stearic acid, oleic acid and palmitic acid or dibasic acids such as adipic acid, sebacic acid and thiodipropionic acid are used. A monoester or diester compound such as isoeicosyl stearate, isopentacosyl palmitate, isopentacosyl oleate, isopentacosyl erucinate, or the like, or diisostearyl thiol can be used. Examples thereof include diesters such as dipropionate, dioleyl adipate, and diisostearyl sebacate.

Here, only the aliphatic monohydric alcohol ester having a molecular weight of more than 750 or being solid at room temperature, or polyhydric alcohol ester having no hydroxyl group such as coconut oil and rapeseed oil which are triglycerides is A
When it is used as a component, the size loss during weaving is increased, and the friction between the running yarn and the yarn guide is increased during yarn production, resulting in single yarn breakage, which is not preferable.

Further, in the case of an aliphatic monohydric alcohol ester having a molecular weight of less than 550, not only is it a cause of pollution of the work environment because it is easily volatilized by the heat during the yarn making and smoke is generated,
Tar is formed on the heat roller, the yarn guide, etc., which may cause breakage of single yarn and the like, and may also cause generation of fluff during twisting, which is not preferable.

Next, the aromatic ester (B) is a diester compound represented by the following general formula, in which alkylene oxide is added to bisphenol A and then esterified with an aliphatic monocarboxylic acid.

[0019]

[Chemical 3]

In the formula, R ₁ and R ₂ are alkyl groups having 8 to 25 carbon atoms, A is an alkylene group having 2 to 4 carbon atoms, and n and m are integers of 1 or 2. When the carbon number of R ₁ and R ₂ is less than 8, the lubricity tends to decrease, the abrasion resistance tends to deteriorate, and the raw yarn fluff and twisted yarn fluff tend to increase. On the other hand, when the carbon number exceeds 25, it is difficult to obtain industrially, which is not preferable. In addition, the number of added moles of alkylene oxide (n
Or, when m) is 0, the property of the aromatic ester becomes solid at room temperature, which hinders the adhesiveness of the sizing agent in the sizing step, while when it is 3 or more, it is hydrophilic. And the plasticizing of the sizing film increases the protective effect of the sizing film formed on the yarn, and the weaving efficiency deteriorates.

Examples of the component (B) that is usually preferably used include dilaurate of bisphenol A added with 2 mol of ethylene oxide.

In the oil agent used in the present invention, the total of the components (A) and (B) described in detail above is 20 to 75% by weight, preferably 30 to 6% by weight based on the oil agent active ingredient.
It must be contained at 5% by weight. If this content is less than 20% by weight, the lubricity required for yarn production cannot be imparted, and the occurrence of single yarn breakage tends to increase.
In addition, there is little improvement effect on problems such as "paste removal" during weaving. On the other hand, if it exceeds 75% by weight, a problem occurs in the emulsion stability of the oil agent system, which is not preferable.

In the present invention, the weight ratio (A / B) of the component (A) to the component (B) is 95/5 to 60/4.
It must be in the range of 0. The ratio of B component is A
If it is less than 5% by weight with respect to the total amount of B and B, the heat resistance of the oil agent decreases, and if it exceeds 40% by weight, the friction of the thread becomes high, and when weaving with sizing in post-processing. As a result, the adhesiveness of the glue film on the yarn is reduced, or the cohesive force of the glue film is weakened, and the sizing effect is weakened.

The alkylene oxide adduct of triglyceride having a hydroxyl group in the molecule, which is another essential component of the oil agent used in the present invention, is required to be liquid at room temperature. Further, the content thereof should be 2 to 15% by weight, preferably 5 to 10% by weight based on the active ingredient of the oil agent.

The purpose of the present invention is to dissolve such an alkylene oxide adduct of glyceride with a polyester oligomer (mainly a cyclic trimer) and to dissolve the oligomer precipitated by a treatment such as heating during the production of polyester fiber in an oil agent system. It is presumed that the effect of suppressing oligomer scum deposition on rollers, yarn guides, etc. is great. Therefore, if the amount used is too small, these effects will not be exhibited, while if it is too large, the effect of the above-mentioned component A (paste removal resistance) will be reduced, and the friction between the running yarn and the yarn guide will increase and the single yarn Friction increases, which is not preferable.

The alkylene oxide added in the component (C) is an alkylene oxide having 2 to 4 carbon atoms, and ethylene oxide is particularly preferable. Further, the number of added moles thereof is preferably 4 to 30 moles, particularly 8 to 15 moles with respect to the glyceride having a hydroxyl group. It is presumed that when the number of added moles deviates from this range, the solubility of the polyester oligomer decreases, but the effect of suppressing oligomer scum deposition tends to decrease.

Examples of the C component include alkylene oxide adducts of hydrogenated castor oil, and aliphatic monocarboxylic acid monoesters or diesters thereof. Specifically, POE (8) hydrogenated castor oil ether (POE (n) indicates that the number of moles of oxyethylene oxide added is on average n moles. The same applies hereinafter), P
OE (12) hydrogenated castor oil ether, POE (25) hydrogenated castor oil dilaurate and the like are preferable.

Needless to say, other oil agent components may be contained within a range not impairing the object of the present invention. Examples of such compounding agents include heat-resistant thioester-based smoothing agents, emulsifiers for use as emulsions, antistatic agents for preventing static electricity, antioxidants for improving heat resistance, and extreme pressure lubrication of oil agents. Examples thereof include organic or inorganic additives for improving the properties and oil film strength.

The oil agent may be applied to the polyester fiber after the spun yarn is solidified and before it is drawn, and is usually applied before the take-up roller. As a preferable means for applying, there is a method of forming the above-mentioned oil agent into an aqueous emulsion and applying it through a metering oiling nozzle.
0.3 to 1.0% by weight as fiber oil content based on fiber weight
The weaving efficiency and the like of the fibers obtained by the above are further improved.

The polyester fiber used in the present invention is
The undrawn yarn to which the above oil agent is applied is obtained by drawing heat setting so that the boiling water shrinkage rate is 5% or less. For example, by using an apparatus as shown in FIG. 3, it is drawn at a speed of 1300 m / min, and then heat set at a temperature of 170 ° C. or higher while drawing 3.0 times between the take-up roller and the drawing heat setting roller. Good.

The polyester fiber produced as described above is subjected to a strong twist having a twist coefficient K (twist number (times / m) × √ (fineness)) = 15,000 or more according to a conventional method, and then pasted and woven. The fabric thus obtained is then heated to a temperature of, for example, 80-1.
It is dipped in hot water of 00 ° C. to be embossed.

[0032]

According to the method of the present invention described above, the hot water shrinkage ratio which is difficult to obtain from the conventional methods is 5%.
It is below, and a polyester fiber in which scum generation at the time of yarn production, fuzz generation at the time of twisting, and desizing at the time of weaving are suppressed is obtained, and a polyester wrinkle fabric having good graininess can be easily and inexpensively produced. The industrial value is extremely high.

[0033]

EXAMPLES The present invention will be described in more detail below with reference to examples. In the examples, the wrinkle rising property, heat resistance, guide scum, raw yarn fluff, and desmear scum were evaluated by the following methods.

(1) Heat resistance (smoke resistance, heat deterioration resistance) In the polyester fiber manufacturing process, the state of smoke generated from the heating roller for heat setting and the condition of tar generated around the roller are visually observed and the following criteria are applied. It was judged by. Smoke resistance ○ Small amount of smoke △ 〃 Medium × 〃 Large Heat deterioration resistance ○ Small amount of tar △ 〃 Medium × 〃 Large

(2) Guide scum In the polyester fiber manufacturing process, the amount of scum adhering to the yarn guide after passing through the heat setting heating roller was visually determined. ○ Small scum △ Medium × large

(3) Raw yarn fluff: 160 raw yarns were sampled, the number of fluffs (single yarn breaks) for each 200,000 m was counted, and the number of fluffs per 1 million m was calculated from the number and determined as follows. . Number of fluff (ke / 10 ⁶ m) ○ 0 to 0.5 △ 0.5 to 2.0 × 2.0 or more

(4) Twisted yarn fluff After the original yarn was twisted at 3000 T / m, the fluff of the appearance was visually measured and judged according to the following criteria. Appearance fluff (ke / kg) ○ 0.5 or less △ 0.5 to 1.0 × 1.0 or more

(5) Paste removal scum As a substitute characteristic for the "paste removal" phenomenon in the actual weaving process, a part of the paste film on the surface of the yarn is affected by friction acting in the yarn axis direction of the sizing yarn. The frequency of peeling from the yarn surface was evaluated.

A sizing yarn was obtained by sizing polyester fibers with a sizing agent mainly composed of polyvinyl alcohol and a polyacrylic acid ester by a usual roller sizing method so that the target adhesion amount was 5.0% by weight. Next, 20 pieces of this sizing yarn are arranged at equal intervals, fixed terminals are installed so that both ends are not disturbed, and one end is fixed by a chuck 4 as shown in FIGS.
A weight 6 of the book is applied, and a tension is applied to the whole sample through the pulley 5. In the figure, 1, 2 and 3 are reeds installed at intervals of 10 cm and are fixed to a movable base 7, and the movable base 7 can reciprocate over a width of 5 cm in parallel with the yarn axis. The sample sizing yarn is set so as to have an opening angle of 108 ° in the central reed 2 as shown in FIG.

Next, the movable table 7 is reciprocated left and right,
After reciprocating 10 times, the peeling state of the glue film in the rubbing portion between the reed and the yarn was carefully observed, and the ratio of the number of peeled samples to all 20 samples was expressed by the following grading.

Here, the judgment was made by averaging the results of three times. Percentage of peeled grade Grade less than 25%: Good 25 to 50%: Good Exceeds 50%: No Further weaving is actually performed and the result of visual evaluation of the glue removal scum is combined and judged as a glue removal scum. did. Paste removal scum ○ Small △ Medium × Large

(6) Wrinkle Standing After the relaxation treatment and after finishing, the wrinkle rising was visually determined. ◎ Very good ○ Good △ Somewhat insufficient × No

(7) Residual Torque A yarn set by twisting is set by steaming heat treatment after twisting,
Cut out 1.2 m and apply a weight to the center so that the weight is 0.2 g / d. 2 depending on the torque of the yarn
Twist occurs in the folded yarn. This is cut to a length of 50 cm (test length of yarn is 1 m), the number of twists is measured by a twisting device, and this is doubled and corrected per 1 m to obtain the residual torque.

(8) Boiling Water Torque As with the residual torque, the twist set yarn was cut off, weighted to 0.2 g / d in the center, the ends were aligned, and immersed in boiling water for 10 minutes. , Cut 25 cm (test length of yarn is 50 cm), measure the number of twists with a twisting device, and measure 1 m.
Converted into hits and used as boiling water torque.

(9) Comprehensive evaluation The following four levels were used. ◎ Very good ○ Good △ Somewhat insufficient × No

[0046]

Example 1 Polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.65 was melted and discharged using the apparatus shown in FIG. 3 to form a 36-filament yarn. The oil agent shown in Table 1 was applied to the yarn through an oiling roller so as to be 0.5% by weight. Then, after preheating at 90 ° C. while taking it off with a take-up roller at 1300 m / min, while drawing it 3.0 times between the take-up roller and the drawing heat setting roller, 13
Winding with heat set at 0, 150, 170, 190 ℃ 7
A drawn yarn of 5d / 36f and a strength of 4.6 g / d was obtained.

The drawn yarn thus obtained was twisted at 3000 T / m using an Italy twisting machine and then subjected to steam heat treatment at 85 ° C. for 30 minutes to temporarily fix the twist.

After arranging the strong twisted yarns for warp, the sizing agent of the acrylic yarn is applied to the yarn weight by 3.0%, while the strong twisted yarn not added with the sizing agent is used as the weft, and warp 120 Book / 25.4mm, Weft 84/2
Weaving was performed at a weave density of 5.4 mm. The resulting fabric is
After relaxation treatment at 130 ° C. for 20 minutes using a jet dyeing machine, weight reduction treatment was carried out in an alkaline aqueous solution of sodium hydroxide 35 g / liter at 100 ° C. so that the weight reduction rate was 18%. Then, using a disperse dye, dyeing was carried out at 130 ° C. for 45 minutes, washing with water, and then dry heat setting was carried out at 170 ° C.

The evaluation results of the obtained textured fabric are shown in Table 2.

[0050]

[Table 1]

[0051]

[Table 2]

From the above results, it is understood that according to the method of the present invention, the spinnability, twistability, weavability, and wrinkle rising property are extremely good.

[0053]

Example 2 Using the same apparatus as in Example 1, the oil agent shown in Table 3 was applied, stretched, and heat set at 190 ° C. to evaluate the items other than the graininess. The results are shown in Table 4.

[0054]

[Table 3]

[0055]

[Table 4]

As is clear from the above results, it is understood that the yarn forming, twisting and weaving processes are remarkably improved by adding the oil agent according to the present invention.

[Brief description of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a side view of an adhesive removal scum evaluation device.

FIG. 2 is a plan view of an adhesive removal scum evaluation device.

FIG. 3 is a schematic view of a polyester spinning direct drawing machine used in Examples.

[Explanation of symbols]

 1 Reed for rubbing the yarn 2 Reed for rubbing the yarn 3 Reed for rubbing the yarn 4 Check for fixing the yarn 5 Pulley 6 Weight 7 Moving table for reciprocating the reed 8 Thread 9 Cooling device 10 Lubricant applying device 11 Pulling Take-up roller 12 Stretching heat setting roller 13 Winding machine

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Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A polyester fiber which is melt-spun polyester, is applied with an oil agent, and is stretch-heat-set to have a boiling water shrinkage of 5% or less. In the method for producing an embossed woven fabric, the oil agent contains the following (A) to (C) as essential components and simultaneously satisfies the formulas (I) to (III). A method of manufacturing a woven fabric. Component (A) Aliphatic monohydric alcohol ester which is liquid at room temperature and has a molecular weight of 550 to 750 (B) Component Aromatic ester represented by the following formula and liquid at room temperature [However, R ₁ and R ₂ are alkyl groups having 8 to 25 carbon atoms, A
Represents an alkylene group having 2 to 4 carbon atoms, and n and m each represent an integer of 1 or 2. ] (C) a liquid at component normal temperature, alkylene oxide adducts of triglyceride having at least one hydroxyl group in the molecule _{(I) W A + W B} = 20~75 (II) W C = 2~15 (III) W _A / W _B = 95/5 to 60/40 [where W _A , W _B and W _C are (A), (B),
And the content (% by weight) of the component (C) with respect to the active ingredient of the oil agent. ]