JPH0528204B2 - - Google Patents

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Publication number
JPH0528204B2
JPH0528204B2 JP15349484A JP15349484A JPH0528204B2 JP H0528204 B2 JPH0528204 B2 JP H0528204B2 JP 15349484 A JP15349484 A JP 15349484A JP 15349484 A JP15349484 A JP 15349484A JP H0528204 B2 JPH0528204 B2 JP H0528204B2
Authority
JP
Japan
Prior art keywords
skin
cosmetic
ascorbic acid
parts
test
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
JP15349484A
Other languages
Japanese (ja)
Other versions
JPS6130510A (en
Inventor
Toshuki Motoi
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Kanebo Ltd
Original Assignee
Kanebo Ltd
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Kanebo Ltd filed Critical Kanebo Ltd
Priority to JP15349484A priority Critical patent/JPS6130510A/en
Publication of JPS6130510A publication Critical patent/JPS6130510A/en
Publication of JPH0528204B2 publication Critical patent/JPH0528204B2/ja
Granted legal-status Critical Current

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Classifications

    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/67Vitamins
    • A61K8/676Ascorbic acid, i.e. vitamin C
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/49Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
    • A61K8/4973Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/74Biological properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/78Enzyme modulators, e.g. Enzyme agonists
    • A61K2800/782Enzyme inhibitors; Enzyme antagonists

Landscapes

  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Description

【発明の詳細な説明】[Detailed description of the invention]

〔産業上の利用分野〕 本発明は、後記特定のアスコルビン酸誘導体を
含有する皮膚化粧料に関し、更に詳しくは、人体
に好ましくない副作用や皮膚刺激を有さず、長期
保存しても安定で、しかも優れた老化防止効果お
よび優れた美白効果を同時に発現、付与し得る皮
膚化粧料に関する。 〔従来の技術〕 従来、日焼けした肌を健常な肌色に回復するに
は、増加形成しているメラニン色素の淡色漂白や
メラニン生成過程でのチロシナーゼ活性の阻害等
が必要であるとされている。 これらの原理を応用した美白化粧料の活性物質
として、いくつかのアスコルビン酸誘導体が研究
され、アスコルビン酸の3−モノ直鎖脂肪酸エス
テル、2,6−ジ直鎖脂肪酸エステル等が提案さ
れている(特公昭45−15391号、特公昭45−23634
号)。しかしながら、化粧料に応用した場合、経
日安定性に問題があつたり、変色、変臭の原因と
なつたり、また優れた美白効果が得られないとい
う欠点がある。 このように、皮膚老化防止効果と美白効果を発
現、付与し得る優れた皮膚化粧料は未だ見られな
い。 〔発明が解決しようとする問題点〕 本発明の目的は、長期保存しても安定で、変
色、変臭、活性低下等を起こすことなく、使用時
には皮膚刺激なく良好な感触を与えながら身体を
美化し、魅力を増し、皮膚をすこやかに保ち、皮
膚老化防止効果と美白効果とを同時に発現、付与
し得る優れた皮膚化粧料を提供することにある。 〔問題点を解決するための手段〕 本発明の前記目的は、モノピバロイルアスコル
ビン酸を含有する皮膚化粧料によつて達成され
る。 本発明に使用するモノピバロイルアスコルビン
酸は、公知の化合物であつて、例えばアスコルビ
ン酸とビバリン酸またはアスコルビン酸とピバロ
イルクロリドとを反応させることによつて得られ
る。 本発明に使用する前記のモノピバロイルアスコ
ルビン酸の具体例としては、2−0−ピバロイル
アスコルビン酸、3−0−ピバロイルアスコルビ
ン、5−0−ピバロイルアスコルビン酸、6−0
−ピバロイルアスコルビン酸である。 本発明において、前記モノピバロイルアスコル
ビン酸は各々単独で、もしくは2種以上の混合物
として皮膚化粧料基剤に配合される。その配合量
は、皮膚化粧料の形態(種類)によつて異なるけ
れども、総括的な配合量は、当該化粧料の処方成
分全量を基準として(以下同様)、通常0.05〜20
重量%の範囲内である。 更に具体的な配合量の範囲を記すと、クリーム
状(乳化型)化粧料では0.05〜10重量%(好まし
くは1〜5重量%)、乳液状化粧料では0.05〜10
重量%(好ましくは1〜5重量%)、水性透明液
状の化粧料では0.05〜2.0重量%(好ましくは0.1
〜1.0重量%)、油状化粧料では0.05〜20重量%
(好ましくは1〜15重量%)、ケーキ状化粧料では
0.05〜17重量%(好ましくは3〜10重量%)、粉
末状化粧料では5〜20重量%(好ましくは7〜15
重量%)である。 本発明のクリーム状または乳液状の化粧料は、
例えばマツサージクリーム、クレンジングクリー
ム、スキンクリーム、フアンデーシヨンクリー
ム、ミルキーローシヨン等の公知のクリーム状ま
たは乳液状の皮膚化粧料の基剤に、前記のモノピ
バロイルアスコルビン酸を前記所要量配合するこ
とによつて得られる。その配合方法は公知の方法
を採用し得る。 前記化粧料の基剤に使用し得る基材の乳化剤と
しては、例えば通常の非イオン型界面活性剤、ア
ニオン型界面活性剤、両性型界面活性剤等の合成
乳化剤や、レシチン、シヨ糖脂肪酸エステル、高
級アシルグルタミン酸塩、ペクチン、カラヤガ
ム、ローカストビーンガム、グリチルリチン
(18α一体、または18β一体)酸またはそのアルカ
リ金属塩、アンモニウム塩、水溶性コラーゲン
(ポリペプチド)等の天然物系の界面活性物質や、
ナトリウム型ペントナイト等の公知の乳化剤が挙
げられる。乳化剤の配合量は処方成分全量に対し
て通常0.05〜5重量%の範囲内である。 また、基材の油性物質としては、皮膚化粧料用
の油性物質であつて、例えば植物油、動物油、高
級脂肪酸、高級アルコール、合成エステル油、ワ
ツクス類、シリコン油等が挙げられる。 このような基材としての油性物質の配合量は、
処方成分全量に対して通常5〜60重量%である。
配合し得る他の成分としては、香料、防腐剤、顔
料等の他、必要に応じて皮膚栄養剤、保湿剤、紫
外線防止剤、PH調整剤を適用し得る。 前記のモノピバロイルアスコルビン酸は、安定
剤、油性基剤との相溶性、乳化性等が良い故、乳
化型化粧料の処方設計が容易であり、しかも皮膚
老化防止効果、美白効果、乳化安定性、保存安定
性、粘度(硬度)安定性、外観(肌目、光沢)、
使用時の伸び及び感触等の良好な製品を容易に得
ることができる。 本発明の水性透明液状の化粧料は、通常のロー
シヨン類や皮膜型パツク剤等の基剤に前記モノピ
バロイルアスコルビン酸を所要量配合することに
よつて得られる。この場合、前記モノピバロイル
アスコルビン酸は、水や水−アルコール系の中に
可溶化しやすく、また安定性が高い故に処方設計
が極めて容易で、しかも皮膚老化防止効果及び美
白効果を安定に保持した透明ローシヨンや透明な
皮膜型美白パツク剤を容易に得ることができる。
水性透明液状の美白化粧料基剤には、エタノール
や皮膜剤等の慣用基剤の他に、香料、着色剤、防
腐剤や、必要に応じて皮膚栄養剤、保湿剤、PH
調整剤等を配合し得る。 本発明の油状美白化粧料は、後記の如き液状の
油性基材に、前記のモノピバロイルアスコルビン
酸の適当量を添加し、均一溶解することにより得
られる。その液状の油性基材としては、例えば、
アーモンド油、オリーブ油、ゴマ油、サフラワー
油、ミンク油、アボガド油、ホホバ油、イソプロ
ピルパルミテート、イソプロピルミリステート、
オレイルアルコール、イソステアリルアルコー
ル、オクチルドデカノール等を挙げることができ
る。これらの中で皮脂に易溶な油性物質は特に好
ましい。 本発明の油状美白化粧料は、実質的に透明な流
動性の高いオイル状を呈し、かつ非水系を形成し
ている。そして前記モノピバロイルアスコルビン
酸は既述の如く溶解性、安定性に優れているの
で、その液状油性基剤の中に完全に溶解してお
り、長期保存しても活性低下を生起することな
く、良好な皮膚老化防止効果及び美白効果を発揮
することができる。 本発明におけるケーキ状の化粧料は、主要構成
成分として顔料と、前記モノピバロイルアスコル
ビン酸、または通常の化粧料用油性物質とを使用
して公知のプロセスによつて製造される。本発明
の粉末状の美白化粧料は、デンプン、乳糖、マン
ニツト、沈降炭酸カルシウム等の慣用粉末基材
に、本発明のモノピバロイルアスコルビン酸を添
加し、均一に混練することによつて製造される。 〔作用〕 本発明におけるモノピバロイルアスコルビン酸
は、化粧料の系中での安定性、油性基材との相溶
性、乳化性、人体に対する安全性が高く良好であ
るので、皮膚化粧料の処方設計が容易となり、そ
して経日安定性が良好で、皮膚刺激なくフイーリ
ングの良い良好な感触を与える化粧料を提供する
ことができる。 本発明の皮膚化粧料を皮膚に塗布すると前記モ
ノピバロイルアスコルビン酸は速やかに皮脂中に
溶解、拡散して容易に皮内に浸透して、皮膚組織
の活性および代謝を促進し、その結果、前記の皮
膚老化防止効果を発現すると共に、皮膚組織中の
チロシナーゼの活性を適度良好に阻害し優れた皮
膚の美白効果を発現し得る。 〔実施例〕 以下、本発明を実施例によつて、更に詳細に説
明する。尚、実施例に示す部とは重量部、%とは
重量%である。また、荒れ肌改善効果、角質改善
効果、官能効果、美白効果、保存安定性等の試験
法は下記の通りである。 (1) 荒れ肌改善効果の測定試験法 下脚に荒れ肌を有する中高年被験者20名を対象
として4週間連続塗布効果を調べた。被験者の左
側下脚試験部位に1日2回約1gのクリームを塗
布し、試験開始前および終了後の皮膚の状態を第
1表の基準により判定した。右側下脚は試料を塗
布せず対照とした。 第1表 皮膚乾燥度の判定基準 −:正常 ±:軽微乾燥、落屑なし +:乾燥、落屑軽度 ++:乾燥、落屑中等度 +++:乾燥、落屑顕著 試験前後の試験部位と対照部位の判定結果を比
較し、皮膚乾燥度が2段階以上改善された場合
(例えば+→−、++→±)を「有効」、1段階改
善された場合を「やや有効」、変化がなかつた場
合を「無効」とした。尚、試験期間中に皮膚の乾
燥が進んだ例はなかつた。 (2) 角質改善(角質細胞の抗剥離性増大)効果の
測定試験法 前述の荒れ肌改善測定試験開始前および終了後
の被験部皮膚にスコチツチテープ(ニチバンメン
デイングテープ)を接着し、これを剥離した時テ
ープに付着した角質細胞の状態を走査型電子顕微
鏡によつて詳細に調べ、第2表の基準によつて皮
膚角質細胞抗剥離性を分離し、角質改善効果を求
めた。 第2表 角質質改善効果(角質細胞抗剥離性増
大)の判定基準 評価点1:スケール認めず 〃 2:小スケール点在 〃 3:小〜中スケール顕著 〃 4:大スケール顕著 第2表は4週間連続塗布後の試験部位の評価点
と対照部位のそれとの差が2点以上の場合を「有
効」、1点の場合を「やや有効」、0点の場合を
「無効」とした。 尚、試験部位の評価点が対照部位のそれよりも
大きい例はなかつた。 なお、この角質細胞の剥離特性は、角質層の構
造特性を判断する指標となるものであつて、一般
に乾燥皮膚、老化皮膚に於ては、細胞間結合量が
弱く、またその構造の緻密性も低いことから指数
が高くなることが確認されている。 (3) 官能効果のパネルテスト 50名の中年(30〜50才)女子パネラーの顔面に
試料を1日2回、2ケ月間連続塗布し、パネラー
本人が試験開始前および終了後の皮膚の状態を、
「しわ伸ばし効果」、「はりに対する効果」、「しつ
とり感に対する効果」につきそれぞれ評価した。 (4) 美白効果のパネルテスト 色黒、シミ、ソバカスに悩む被験者(女子)20
名のパネラーに試料を毎日朝、夕一回2ケ月塗布
し、「有効」、「やや有効」または「無効」のいず
れかをパネラー本人が判定した。 (5) 保存安定性試験(40℃、6ケ月後の化粧料の
安定性) 化粧料の試料を40℃の恒温室に6ケ月間保存し
た後の外観変化(分離、着色の有無等)、変臭の
有無等を専門検査員3人によつてしらべた。 実施例 1 6−0−ピバロイルアスコルビン酸4部、スク
ワラン25部、セチルアルコール3部、オリーブ油
5部、モノステアリン酸グリセリン2部およびス
テアリン酸3部からなる溶融均一混合物(80℃)
の中に、キサンタンガム0.5部、トリエタノール
アミン0.3部、メチルパラベン0.2部および水56部
からなる水溶液(80℃)を攪拌下に添加して、乳
化し、その後冷却して40℃に降温した時点で香料
を適量添加して、本発明のO/W型エマルジヨン
のクリーム状化粧料を得た。 なお、この化粧料の試験結果は、後記第3表に
示した。 比較例 1 6−0−ピバロイルアスコルビン酸の代りに、
6−0−ステアロイルアスコルビン酸を使用する
他は、実施例1と同様に行なつて、比較のクリー
ム状化粧料を得た。なおこの化粧料の試験結果は
後記第3表に示した。 比較例 2 6−0−ピバロイルアスコルビン酸の代りに、
6−0−ペンタノイルアスコルビン酸を使用する
他は、実施例1と同様に行なつて比較のクリーム
状化粧料を得た。なお、この化粧料の試験結果は
後記第3表に示した。 比較例 3 6−0−ピバロイルアスコルビン酸の代りに、
6−0−アセチルアスコルビン酸を使用する他
は、実施例1と同様に行なつて、比較のクリーム
状化粧料を得た。なお、この化粧料の試験結果
は、後記の第3表に示した。
[Industrial Application Field] The present invention relates to a skin cosmetic containing a specific ascorbic acid derivative described below, and more specifically, it does not have any unfavorable side effects or skin irritation on the human body, is stable even after long-term storage, Moreover, the present invention relates to a skin cosmetic that can simultaneously exhibit and provide excellent anti-aging effects and excellent whitening effects. [Prior Art] Conventionally, in order to restore sunburned skin to a healthy complexion, it has been believed that it is necessary to lighten the increasing amount of melanin pigment formed and to inhibit tyrosinase activity during the melanin production process. Several ascorbic acid derivatives have been studied as active substances for whitening cosmetics applying these principles, and 3-mono-straight-chain fatty acid esters and 2,6-di-straight-chain fatty acid esters of ascorbic acid have been proposed. (Special Publication No. 15391, Special Publication No. 45-23634
issue). However, when applied to cosmetics, there are drawbacks such as problems with stability over time, causing discoloration and odor, and failure to obtain excellent whitening effects. As described above, an excellent skin cosmetic that can exhibit and provide skin anti-aging effects and whitening effects has not yet been found. [Problems to be Solved by the Invention] The purpose of the present invention is to provide a product that is stable even when stored for a long period of time, does not cause discoloration, odor, or decrease in activity, and provides a good feel while not irritating the skin when used. To provide an excellent skin cosmetic that beautifies, increases attractiveness, keeps the skin healthy, and can simultaneously express and impart skin anti-aging effects and whitening effects. [Means for Solving the Problems] The above objects of the present invention are achieved by a skin cosmetic containing monopivaloyl ascorbic acid. Monopivaloyl ascorbic acid used in the present invention is a known compound, and can be obtained, for example, by reacting ascorbic acid and bivalic acid or ascorbic acid and pivaloyl chloride. Specific examples of the monopivaloyl ascorbic acid used in the present invention include 2-0-pivaloyl ascorbic acid, 3-0-pivaloyl ascorbic acid, 5-0-pivaloyl ascorbic acid, 6- 0
- pivaloylascorbic acid. In the present invention, each monopivaloyl ascorbic acid is blended into the skin cosmetic base alone or as a mixture of two or more. Although the amount of the ingredient varies depending on the form (type) of the skin cosmetic, the overall amount is usually 0.05 to 20% based on the total amount of prescription ingredients of the cosmetic (the same applies hereinafter).
Within the range of % by weight. More specifically, the blending amount range is 0.05 to 10% by weight (preferably 1 to 5% by weight) for cream (emulsion type) cosmetics, and 0.05 to 10% by weight for emulsion cosmetics.
% by weight (preferably 1 to 5% by weight), and 0.05 to 2.0% by weight (preferably 0.1% by weight for aqueous transparent liquid cosmetics)
~1.0% by weight), 0.05-20% by weight for oily cosmetics
(preferably 1 to 15% by weight), in cake-like cosmetics.
0.05 to 17% by weight (preferably 3 to 10% by weight), 5 to 20% by weight (preferably 7 to 15% by weight) for powdered cosmetics.
weight%). The cream or emulsion cosmetic of the present invention is
For example, the monopivaloyl ascorbic acid is blended in the required amount into a base of a known cream or emulsion skin cosmetic such as pine surge cream, cleansing cream, skin cream, foundation cream, milky lotion, etc. obtained by A known method can be used for the blending method. Examples of the base emulsifier that can be used as the base of the cosmetic include synthetic emulsifiers such as ordinary nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants, and amphoteric surfactants, lecithin, and sucrose fatty acid esters. , higher acyl glutamates, pectin, karaya gum, locust bean gum, glycyrrhizin (mono-18α or mono-18β) acid or its alkali metal salts, ammonium salts, water-soluble collagen (polypeptide), and other natural surfactants; ,
Known emulsifiers such as sodium pentonite can be used. The amount of emulsifier to be blended is usually within the range of 0.05 to 5% by weight based on the total amount of prescription ingredients. In addition, examples of the oily substance for the base material include oily substances for skin cosmetics, such as vegetable oils, animal oils, higher fatty acids, higher alcohols, synthetic ester oils, waxes, and silicone oils. The amount of oily substance used as a base material is
It is usually 5 to 60% by weight based on the total amount of prescription ingredients.
Other ingredients that may be blended include fragrances, preservatives, pigments, etc., as well as skin nutrients, humectants, ultraviolet light inhibitors, and PH adjusters, if necessary. The monopivaloyl ascorbic acid described above has good compatibility with stabilizers, oily bases, and emulsifying properties, so it is easy to design formulations for emulsifying cosmetics, and it also has anti-aging effects, whitening effects, and emulsifying properties. Stability, storage stability, viscosity (hardness) stability, appearance (grain, gloss),
A product with good elongation and feel during use can be easily obtained. The aqueous transparent liquid cosmetic composition of the present invention can be obtained by blending a required amount of the monopivaloyl ascorbic acid into a base such as ordinary lotions or film-type packs. In this case, the monopivaloyl ascorbic acid is easily solubilized in water or a water-alcohol system, and has high stability, so it is extremely easy to design a formulation, and it also has stable skin anti-aging and whitening effects. A transparent lotion or a transparent film-type whitening pack can be easily obtained.
In addition to conventional bases such as ethanol and film agents, the aqueous transparent liquid whitening cosmetic base contains fragrances, colorants, preservatives, and if necessary, skin nutrients, moisturizers, and PH.
Conditioners and the like may be added. The oily whitening cosmetic composition of the present invention can be obtained by adding an appropriate amount of the monopivaloyl ascorbic acid described above to a liquid oily base material as described below and uniformly dissolving it. Examples of the liquid oil base material include:
Almond oil, olive oil, sesame oil, safflower oil, mink oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate,
Examples include oleyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, and the like. Among these, oily substances that are easily soluble in sebum are particularly preferred. The oily whitening cosmetic composition of the present invention has a substantially transparent highly fluid oily state and is non-aqueous. As mentioned above, the monopivaloyl ascorbic acid has excellent solubility and stability, so it is completely dissolved in the liquid oily base, and its activity does not decrease even after long-term storage. However, it can exhibit good skin anti-aging effects and whitening effects. The cake-like cosmetic according to the present invention is produced by a known process using a pigment and the monopivaloyl ascorbic acid or a conventional oily substance for cosmetics as main components. The powdered whitening cosmetic of the present invention is produced by adding the monopivaloyl ascorbic acid of the present invention to a conventional powder base material such as starch, lactose, mannite, precipitated calcium carbonate, etc., and uniformly kneading the mixture. be done. [Function] The monopivaloyl ascorbic acid of the present invention has high stability in cosmetic systems, compatibility with oily base materials, emulsifying properties, and safety for the human body, so it is suitable for use in skin cosmetics. It is possible to provide a cosmetic that facilitates formulation design, has good stability over time, and provides a good feeling without irritating the skin. When the skin cosmetic of the present invention is applied to the skin, the monopivaloyl ascorbic acid quickly dissolves and diffuses into the sebum, and easily penetrates into the skin, promoting the activity and metabolism of skin tissue, and as a result. In addition to exhibiting the above-mentioned skin aging prevention effect, it can inhibit the activity of tyrosinase in skin tissues to a moderate degree and exhibit an excellent skin whitening effect. [Example] Hereinafter, the present invention will be explained in more detail with reference to Examples. In addition, parts shown in Examples are parts by weight, and % is weight %. Test methods for improving rough skin, keratin improving effect, sensory effect, whitening effect, storage stability, etc. are as follows. (1) Test method for measuring the effect of improving rough skin The effect of continuous application for 4 weeks was investigated on 20 middle-aged and elderly subjects who had rough skin on their lower legs. Approximately 1 g of cream was applied to the test site on the left lower leg of the subject twice a day, and the condition of the skin before and after the test was evaluated according to the criteria in Table 1. No sample was applied to the right lower leg, which served as a control. Table 1 Judgment criteria for skin dryness -: Normal ±: Slight dryness, no scaling +: Slight dryness, mild scaling ++: Moderate dryness, scaling +++: Dryness, significant scaling Judgment results for test and control areas before and after the test If the skin dryness has improved by two or more levels (e.g. +→-, ++→±), it is considered "effective", if it has improved by one step, it is "slightly effective", and if there is no change, it is "ineffective". And so. It should be noted that there were no cases of skin dryness progressing during the test period. (2) Test method for measuring the effect of improving keratin (increasing anti-exfoliation properties of keratinocytes) Scotchitsuchi tape (Nichiban mending tape) was adhered to the skin of the test subject before and after the above rough skin improvement measurement test. The state of the keratinocytes that adhered to the tape when it was peeled off was examined in detail using a scanning electron microscope, and the anti-removal properties of skin keratinocytes were determined according to the criteria shown in Table 2, and the keratin improving effect was determined. Table 2 Judgment criteria for keratin improving effect (increased anti-desquamation property of keratinocytes) Evaluation score 1: No scale observed 〃 2: Small scale scattered 〃 3: Small to medium scale noticeable 〃 4: Large scale noticeable When the difference between the evaluation score of the test site and that of the control site after 4 weeks of continuous application was 2 points or more, it was considered "effective," when it was 1 point, "somewhat effective," and when it was 0 points, "ineffective." There were no cases in which the evaluation score of the test site was higher than that of the control site. The exfoliation property of these corneocytes is an indicator for determining the structural properties of the stratum corneum. Generally, in dry skin and aging skin, the amount of intercellular bonds is weak and the density of the structure is poor. It has been confirmed that the index is high because the index is also low. (3) Sensory effect panel test Samples were applied to the faces of 50 middle-aged (30-50 years old) female panelists twice a day for two consecutive months, and the panelists themselves tested their skin before and after the test. condition,
The "wrinkle smoothing effect,""effect on firmness," and "effect on moisturizing feeling" were evaluated. (4) Panel test of skin whitening effect 20 subjects (female) suffering from dark skin, age spots, and freckles
The sample was applied to a panel of participants once a day in the morning and evening for two months, and the panelists themselves judged whether the test was "effective,""slightlyeffective," or "ineffective." (5) Storage stability test (stability of cosmetics after 6 months at 40°C) Appearance changes (separation, presence of coloring, etc.) after storing cosmetic samples in a constant temperature room at 40°C for 6 months, The presence or absence of strange odors was examined by three specialized inspectors. Example 1 Molten homogeneous mixture (80°C) consisting of 4 parts of 6-0-pivaloylascorbic acid, 25 parts of squalane, 3 parts of cetyl alcohol, 5 parts of olive oil, 2 parts of glyceryl monostearate, and 3 parts of stearic acid.
An aqueous solution (80°C) consisting of 0.5 parts of xanthan gum, 0.3 parts of triethanolamine, 0.2 parts of methylparaben, and 56 parts of water was added under stirring to emulsify, and then cooled to 40°C. A suitable amount of fragrance was added to obtain a creamy cosmetic of the O/W type emulsion of the present invention. The test results for this cosmetic are shown in Table 3 below. Comparative Example 1 Instead of 6-0-pivaloylascorbic acid,
A comparative cream cosmetic was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that 6-0-stearoyl ascorbic acid was used. The test results for this cosmetic are shown in Table 3 below. Comparative Example 2 Instead of 6-0-pivaloylascorbic acid,
A comparative cream cosmetic was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that 6-0-pentanoyl ascorbic acid was used. The test results for this cosmetic are shown in Table 3 below. Comparative Example 3 Instead of 6-0-pivaloylascorbic acid,
A comparative cream cosmetic was obtained in the same manner as in Example 1, except that 6-0-acetylascorbic acid was used. The test results for this cosmetic are shown in Table 3 below.

【表】【table】

【表】 実施例 2 2−0−ピバロイルアスコルビン酸4部、スク
ワラン12部、オリーブ油3部、ミリスチン酸イソ
チル3部およびゲイロウ1部からなる溶解均一混
合物(80℃)の中に、キサンタンガム0.5部、18α
−グリチルリチン酸モノアンモニウム3部、メチ
ルパラベン0.2部および水74.3部からなる水溶液
(80℃)を攪拌下に添加して、乳化せしめ、その
後冷却して、30℃に降温した時点で香料適量を添
加して、本発明の0/W型の乳液状化粧料を得
た。 なお、この化粧料の試験結果は後記第4表に示
した。 比較例 4 2−0−ピバロイルアスコルビン酸の代りに、
2−0−ラウロイルアスコルビン酸を使用する他
は、実施例2と同様に行なつて、比較の乳液状化
粧料を得た。 なお、この化粧料の試験結果は後記第4表に示
した。
[Table] Example 2 0.5 g part, 18α
- Add an aqueous solution (80°C) consisting of 3 parts of monoammonium glycyrrhizinate, 0.2 parts of methyl paraben and 74.3 parts of water to emulsify it with stirring, then cool it, and when the temperature has fallen to 30°C, add an appropriate amount of fragrance. Thus, an 0/W type emulsion cosmetic of the present invention was obtained. The test results for this cosmetic are shown in Table 4 below. Comparative Example 4 Instead of 2-0-pivaloylascorbic acid,
A comparative milky lotion cosmetic was obtained in the same manner as in Example 2, except that 2-0-lauroyl ascorbic acid was used. The test results for this cosmetic are shown in Table 4 below.

【表】【table】

【表】 実施例 3 3−0−ピバロイルアスコルビン酸1部をエタ
ノール15部に溶解した後、プロピレングリコール
5部、ポリオキシエチレン硬化ヒマシ油(エチレ
ンオキサイド付加モル数は60モル)0.5部、水
78.5部および香料適量を攪拌下に添加し、均一に
混合溶解して、本発明の化粧水を得た。 なお、この化粧料の試験結果は、後記第5表に
示した。 比較例 5 3−0−ピバロイルアスコルビン酸の代りに、
3−0−パルミトイルアスコルビン酸を使用する
他は、実施例3と同様に行なつて、比較の化粧水
を得た。 なお、この化粧料の試験結果は、後記第5表に
示した。
[Table] Example 3 After dissolving 1 part of 3-0-pivaloyl ascorbic acid in 15 parts of ethanol, 5 parts of propylene glycol, 0.5 part of polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil (number of moles of ethylene oxide added was 60 moles), water
78.5 parts and an appropriate amount of perfume were added under stirring and mixed and dissolved uniformly to obtain a lotion of the present invention. The test results for this cosmetic are shown in Table 5 below. Comparative Example 5 Instead of 3-0-pivaloylascorbic acid,
A comparative lotion was obtained in the same manner as in Example 3, except that 3-0-palmitoyl ascorbic acid was used. The test results for this cosmetic are shown in Table 5 below.

【表】 実施例 4 2−0−ピバロイルアスコルビン酸1部、エチ
ルアルコール13部、グリセリン3部およびポリオ
キシエチレン硬化ヒマシ油2部を均一に溶解した
混合溶液を、水74部にポリビニルアルコール7部
を溶解した水溶液の中に攪拌下に徐々に添加し、
混合して、本発明のパツク剤を得た。 得られたパツク剤の40℃、6ケ月後の安定性は
着色、変臭等が無く、良好であつた。また、しわ
伸ばし効果、はりに対する効果、しつとり感に対
する効果、美白効果等の官能テストの成績も良好
であつた。 実施例 5 2−0−ピバロイルアスコルビン酸5部、3−
0−ピバロイルアスコルビン酸5部、6−0−ピ
バロイルアスコルビン酸5部、デンプン30部、乳
糖55部および香料適量を均一に混合して、本発明
の粉末状化粧料を得た。 この粉末状化粧料を10倍量の乳液中に均一に混
練して、これを顔面に塗布した。1日2回、2ケ
月間連続使用した時の、しわ伸ばし効果、はりに
対する効果、しつとり感に対する効果、美白効果
等の官能テストも良好であつた。
[Table] Example 4 A mixed solution of 1 part of 2-0-pivaloylascorbic acid, 13 parts of ethyl alcohol, 3 parts of glycerin, and 2 parts of polyoxyethylene hydrogenated castor oil was dissolved in 74 parts of water with polyvinyl alcohol. Gradually add 7 parts to an aqueous solution with stirring,
By mixing, a pack agent of the present invention was obtained. The stability of the obtained pack agent after 6 months at 40°C was good, with no coloration, odor, etc. In addition, the results of sensory tests such as wrinkle smoothing effect, firmness effect, moisturizing effect, and whitening effect were also good. Example 5 5 parts of 2-0-pivaloylascorbic acid, 3-
A powdered cosmetic of the present invention was obtained by uniformly mixing 5 parts of 0-pivaloyl ascorbic acid, 5 parts of 6-0-pivaloyl ascorbic acid, 30 parts of starch, 55 parts of lactose, and an appropriate amount of fragrance. This powdered cosmetic was uniformly kneaded into 10 times the amount of emulsion and applied to the face. When used twice a day for 2 months continuously, sensory tests such as wrinkle smoothing effect, firmness effect, dewy feeling effect, whitening effect, etc. were also good.

Claims (1)

【特許請求の範囲】[Claims] 1 モノピバロイルアスコルビン酸を含有するこ
とを特徴とする皮膚化粧料。
1. A skin cosmetic containing monopivaloyl ascorbic acid.
JP15349484A 1984-07-23 1984-07-23 Skin cosmetic Granted JPS6130510A (en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP15349484A JPS6130510A (en) 1984-07-23 1984-07-23 Skin cosmetic

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP15349484A JPS6130510A (en) 1984-07-23 1984-07-23 Skin cosmetic

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
JPS6130510A JPS6130510A (en) 1986-02-12
JPH0528204B2 true JPH0528204B2 (en) 1993-04-23

Family

ID=15563782

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
JP15349484A Granted JPS6130510A (en) 1984-07-23 1984-07-23 Skin cosmetic

Country Status (1)

Country Link
JP (1) JPS6130510A (en)

Families Citing this family (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
US5078989A (en) * 1990-03-28 1992-01-07 Sunstar K.K. Skin whitening cosmetics

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
JPS6130510A (en) 1986-02-12

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