JPH0437192B2 - - Google Patents
Info
- Publication number
- JPH0437192B2 JPH0437192B2 JP61246137A JP24613786A JPH0437192B2 JP H0437192 B2 JPH0437192 B2 JP H0437192B2 JP 61246137 A JP61246137 A JP 61246137A JP 24613786 A JP24613786 A JP 24613786A JP H0437192 B2 JPH0437192 B2 JP H0437192B2
- Authority
- JP
- Japan
- Prior art keywords
- kasuri
- dyeing
- small
- pattern
- warp
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Expired - Lifetime
Links
- 238000004043 dyeing Methods 0.000 claims description 32
- 239000004744 fabric Substances 0.000 claims description 24
- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 claims description 15
- 238000009971 piece dyeing Methods 0.000 claims description 12
- YCKRFDGAMUMZLT-UHFFFAOYSA-N Fluorine atom Chemical compound [F] YCKRFDGAMUMZLT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 229920002472 Starch Polymers 0.000 claims description 4
- 229910052731 fluorine Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000011737 fluorine Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 238000004519 manufacturing process Methods 0.000 claims description 4
- 235000019698 starch Nutrition 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000008107 starch Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000011347 resin Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920005989 resin Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000007921 spray Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000004753 textile Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 description 8
- 238000011109 contamination Methods 0.000 description 3
- 238000007654 immersion Methods 0.000 description 3
- 238000009941 weaving Methods 0.000 description 3
- 238000000926 separation method Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000002759 woven fabric Substances 0.000 description 2
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000005516 engineering process Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000007788 liquid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000463 material Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000012528 membrane Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000000059 patterning Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000021148 sequestering of metal ion Effects 0.000 description 1
- 238000005245 sintering Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000010186 staining Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000010025 steaming Methods 0.000 description 1
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000009970 yarn dyeing Methods 0.000 description 1
Landscapes
- Coloring (AREA)
Description
【発明の詳細な説明】
〔産業上の利用分野〕
本発明は白地しくは淡地小絣織物に華麗な後
染模様を配することを可能にした変わり小絣織
物の製造法に係るものである。[Detailed Description of the Invention] [Field of Industrial Application] The present invention relates to a method for manufacturing a small kasuri fabric that makes it possible to arrange a gorgeous piece-dyed pattern on a white or light kasuri fabric. be.
従来の小絣織物は先染技法(すり込み捺染,
板締捺染,型紙捺染など)で作つた経絣糸と緯
絣糸とを使用し、白色若しくは淡色の地経緯糸
を併用して白地若しくは淡地の小絣織物を製織
している。
Traditional small kasuri textiles are made using yarn dyeing techniques (surikomi printing,
Warp kasuri threads and weft kasuri threads made using katajime printing, stencil printing, etc.) are used in combination with white or light-colored background warp and warp threads to weave white or light-colored small kasuri fabrics.
この場合小絣の配置によつて第1図のように
小絣模様aが表現されることになる。 In this case, by arranging the small splashed patterns, a small splashed pattern a is expressed as shown in FIG.
かかる小絣織物に後染加工を施すことは小絣
模様aが後染の際汚染されるから小絣模様aを
汚染しない位置にのみ限られることになり、小
絣模様aが広範囲に配在されている商品には後
染を施すことができなかつた。 Since the small kasuri pattern a is contaminated during the piece dyeing, applying piece dyeing to such a small kasuri fabric is limited to positions that do not contaminate the small kasuri pattern a, and the small kasuri pattern a is distributed over a wide area. It was not possible to apply post-dyeing to the products.
仮に小絣模様aを防染処理する方法を採用し
ても小絣模様aに合わせて防染処理すことは不
可能であるから或る範囲を防染するとそれ以外
の防染処理しない部分に限つて後染を施すこと
になるから必ず小絣模様aとは隔離的に後染模
様bが配されることになる。 Even if a method of resist dyeing is adopted for small kasuri pattern a, it is impossible to apply resist dyeing to match small kasuri pattern a, so if a certain area is resist dyed, other areas that are not subjected to resist dyeing will be Since only a limited amount of post-dying is applied, the post-dyed pattern b is always placed separately from the small Kasuri pattern a.
また、特開昭61−28089号のように防染剤を
混入した染料を使用して絣染を行い、染着処理
した絣糸と地糸とで絣織物を製織してから絣を
汚染しないように織布の裏側から地染する方法
が試みられている。 In addition, as in JP-A No. 61-28089, Kasuri dyeing is carried out using a dye mixed with a resisting agent, and Kasuri fabric is woven with dyed Kasuri threads and base threads, so that the Kasuri is not contaminated. Attempts have been made to dye the fabric from the back side.
この方法は表側から地染したら絣を汚染する
から裏側に地染しているのである。 In this method, dyeing from the front side would contaminate the Kasuri, so dyeing is done from the back side.
裏側から地染すればそれだけ表側から見たと
きの鮮明さにかけ、美しい製品に仕上がらな
い。 If you dye the fabric from the back side, it will not be as clear as when viewed from the front side, and the finished product will not be beautiful.
本発明は、どんなに普遍的に小絣模様が配在
されていてもその小絣模様を汚染せしめずにそ
れにだぶらせたり、その近くに後染で而かも表
から例えば多色模様やぼかし模様を配すること
を可能にしようとするものである。
The present invention is capable of overlapping the small kasuri pattern without contaminating it, no matter how universally the small kasuri pattern is distributed, and even if there is piece dyeing near the small kasuri pattern, for example, a multicolored pattern or a shading pattern from the front side. The aim is to make it possible to allocate
本発明はこのような欠点を解決したもので、
添付図面を参照にしてその構成を詳述すると次
の通りである。
The present invention solves these drawbacks,
The configuration will be described in detail with reference to the accompanying drawings as follows.
弗素系樹脂を混入した染色糊を使用して小絣
付けを行い、この小絣経緯糸に色止加熱処理
し、この小絣経緯糸と白色若しくは淡色の地経
緯糸を使用して白地若しくは淡地の小絣織物を
製織し、この小絣織物に色止加熱処理よりも高
温な120℃〜150℃程度の加熱焼付処理を行い、
かかる焼付加熱処理した小絣織物に浸染を除く
友禅染,ローケツ染,刷毛染,スプレー染,絞
り染などの後染を行つて小絣模様aに後染模様
bを配在せしめることを特徴とするものであ
る。 Small kasuri is attached using dyed paste mixed with fluorine-based resin, color-fixing heat treatment is applied to the small kasted warp and weft, and white or light-colored background warp and warp are used. A small kasuri fabric is woven from the ground, and this small kasuri fabric is subjected to a baking process at a temperature of 120℃ to 150℃, which is higher than the color fixing heat treatment.
It is characterized in that piece-dying such as Yuzen dyeing, Roketsu dyeing, brush dyeing, spray dyeing, tie-dying, etc. other than dip dyeing is performed on the small kasuri fabric subjected to the baking addition heat treatment, so that the piece-dyed pattern b is distributed on the small kasuri pattern a. It is something.
弗素樹脂を混入した染色糊を使用して絣付け
を行つた絣経緯糸を加熱処理すると防水膜が形
成される。
A waterproof membrane is formed by heat-treating the weft and warp threads of kasuri woven using dyed starch mixed with fluororesin.
この防水模形成作用は小絣経緯糸に糸の状態
で行う色止加熱処理の際の100℃程度の加熱
(蒸熱処理)でも形成されるが、それだけでは
まだ後染に侵されることを確認した。 This waterproof imitation effect can be formed by heating (steaming) to around 100℃ during the color-fixing heat treatment performed on small kasted warp and warp threads, but it was confirmed that this alone would still cause damage to the piece dyeing. .
出願人は加熱テストと防染テストを繰り返し
ているうちに常法の色止処理よりも40℃〜50℃
高温にした120℃〜150℃程度に加熱することに
より防水膜が形成されるだけでなく、形成され
た防水膜が更に焼付け状態で硬化し、極めて強
固な防水皮膜となり、どんな後染にも汚染され
ないことを確認した。 While repeating heating tests and resist dyeing tests, the applicant found that it was 40℃ to 50℃ higher than the conventional color fixing process.
Heating to a high temperature of 120℃ to 150℃ not only forms a waterproof film, but also hardens the formed waterproof film in a baking state, creating an extremely strong waterproof film that is resistant to contamination even after dyeing. We have confirmed that this is not the case.
また、この高温の焼付加熱処理は製織後の織
布の状態すなわち後染を行う状態で行うから防
染処理が平均的に且つ確実に行なわれ、且つ
150℃以上では布地を傷めることも確認した。 In addition, this high-temperature sintering heat treatment is performed in the state of the woven fabric after weaving, that is, in the state in which piece dyeing is performed, so that the resist dyeing treatment is carried out evenly and reliably.
It was also confirmed that fabrics were damaged at temperatures above 150℃.
従つて浸染でも実質的には汚染はされない
が、浸染の場合糸間に染液が残存付着し、汚染
と同じ状態を呈することが判明したので後染は
浸染以外の方法を採用することが良いことも確
認された。 Therefore, although immersion dyeing does not substantially cause contamination, it has been found that in immersion dyeing, the dye solution remains between the yarns and presents the same condition as contamination, so it is better to use a method other than immersion dyeing for post-dying. This was also confirmed.
本発明の染色糊の配分例を示すと次の通りで
ある。
An example of distribution of the dyeing paste of the present invention is as follows.
弗素樹脂液 5部
糊 料 4部
金属イオン封鎖材 0.3部
(糊が不溶性になることを防止する)染
料 濃淡に応じて混入
加熱処理は製織後織布の状態で130℃位にヒー
ター加熱する。Fluororesin liquid 5 parts Paste 4 parts Metal ion sequestering material 0.3 parts (prevents the paste from becoming insoluble) Dyeing
Mixed according to density Heat treatment: After weaving, the woven fabric is heated to about 130℃ using a heater.
尚、この際若干量の弗素糊粉を染料濃度に合わ
せて調合すると更に撥水性が良くなり、汚染が殆
どなくなり小絣模様がより鮮明にあがることが確
認された。 At this time, it was confirmed that when a small amount of fluorine starch was mixed in accordance with the dye concentration, the water repellency was further improved, staining was almost eliminated, and the small Kasuri pattern appeared more clearly.
本発明は上述のように、弗素系樹脂を混入した
染色糊を使用して小絣付けを行い、この小絣経緯
糸に色止処理し、この小絣経緯糸と白色若しくは
淡色の地経緯糸を使用して白地若しくは淡地の小
絣織物を製織し、この小絣織物に色止加熱処理よ
りも高温な120℃〜150℃程度の焼付加熱処理を行
うから弗素樹脂皮膜は焼付硬化状態となり、この
焼付硬化皮膜により小絣織物の小絣模様部は強い
防水皮膜で保護されることになり、どんな後染に
も汚染されない小絣模様となる。
As described above, the present invention involves attaching a small kasted pattern using dyed starch mixed with a fluorine-based resin, applying a color fixing treatment to the small kasted warp and warp, and combining the small kasted weft and warp with a white or light-colored background weft and warp. is used to weave white or light kasuri fabrics, and this kasuri fabric is subjected to baking addition heat treatment at a temperature of 120°C to 150°C, which is higher than the color fixing heat treatment, so the fluororesin film becomes hardened by baking. This baking-hardened film protects the small kasked pattern part of the small kasuri fabric with a strong waterproof film, resulting in a small kasked pattern that is not contaminated by any post-dyeing.
而かもこの高温の焼付加熱処理は色止加熱処理
と兼用して行わず、製織後の布の状態すなわち後
染する状態で行うから平均且つ確実に防染処理さ
れることになる。 Moreover, this high-temperature baking heat treatment is not carried out concurrently with the color fixing heat treatment, but is carried out in the state of the cloth after weaving, that is, in the state of post-dying, so that the resist dyeing treatment is carried out evenly and reliably.
本発明は、かかる小絣織物に浸染を除く後染加
工で色々な後染模様を配在せしめるものである
が、先染の小絣模様が後染により汚染されないか
ら表側に後染することも、小絣模様の近くに後染
模様を現出させることも、また小絣模様にだぶら
せることも可能であり、これまで不可能とされて
いた小絣模様に友禅染模様やぼかし染模様などを
配することが可能となり、もともと地味な感じが
特長である小絣感に華麗な後染感覚を加味した新
しいジヤンルの着物を提供し得ることになる。 In the present invention, various after-dyed patterns are arranged on such small kasuri fabrics by a piece dyeing process other than dip dyeing, but since the first dyed small kasuri patterns are not contaminated by the piece dyeing, piece dyeing can also be applied to the front side. It is also possible to make the post-dyed pattern appear near the small kasuri pattern, or overlap it with the small kasuri pattern, and it is possible to create yuzen and shading patterns in the small kasuri pattern, which were previously considered impossible. This makes it possible to provide a new type of kimono that adds a gorgeous post-dyed feel to the small kasuri feel, which is originally characterized by its plain feel.
また、本発明は白地又は淡地の地経緯糸を使用
した白地又は淡地の小絣織物を母体にするもの
で、かつその小絣模様は後染に対して完全に汚染
されないから絣糸の地となる部分と地糸とを同時
に後染できることになり、従来のように絣糸の地
となる部分と地糸とを別々に染める必要がなく、
且つ別々に染める為に生じる別糸感(同じ色に染
めようとしても同時染色でないから絶対的に同じ
色に染上がらない)が全然無くなり。地の部分を
後染で簡単にきれいに染め上げ得ることになる。 In addition, the present invention uses a white or light kasuri fabric using white or light background warp and warp yarns, and the kasuri pattern is not completely contaminated by piece dyeing. It is now possible to piece-dye the ground part and the ground thread at the same time, eliminating the need to dye the ground part of the kasuri thread and the ground thread separately, as was the case in the past.
In addition, the feeling of separate threads caused by dyeing them separately (even if you try to dye them to the same color, they are not dyed at the same time, so they will never be dyed the same color) is completely eliminated. This means that the base part can be dyed easily and beautifully using post-dyeing.
更に従来の絣付けの場合絣境界線の色のだぶり
や色離れ(白地の隙間が生ずること)を考慮しな
ければならず、製造上色々と難しいノウハウがあ
つたが、本発明においては小絣の絣付けの巾を理
想基準の大きさにして原図通りに絣付けすれば地
となる部分の染色は後染で行なわれるから前記し
た色のだぶりや色離れは絶対に生じいないことに
なるからそれだけ絣付けが容易且つ能率的に行な
われることになる。 Furthermore, in the case of conventional kasuri garnishing, it was necessary to take into consideration the color overlap and color separation (creating gaps in the white background) at the kasuri border line, and various difficult know-hows were required in manufacturing, but in the present invention, small kasuri If the width of the kasuri is set to the ideal standard size and the kasuri is attached according to the original drawing, the dyeing of the base part will be done by piece dyeing, so the above-mentioned color overlap and color separation will never occur. Kasuri patterning can be done more easily and efficiently.
更に後染の併用により一完全模様を大きくする
ことも可能であり、また着物として仕立てた際の
総柄風の廻り連続模様の表現も可能となる等秀れ
た特長を有する変わり小絣模様の製造法となる。 Furthermore, it is possible to enlarge the complete pattern by using piece dyeing, and it is also possible to express a continuous pattern around the whole pattern when it is made into a kimono. Manufacturing method.
図面は本発明の一実施例を示すもので、第1図
は小絣織物の正面図、第2図は変わり小絣織物の
正面図である。
a…小絣織物、b…後染模様。
The drawings show one embodiment of the present invention; FIG. 1 is a front view of a small kasted fabric, and FIG. 2 is a front view of a modified small kasted fabric. a... Small kasuri fabric, b... Piece dyed pattern.
Claims (1)
絣付けを行い、この小絣経緯糸に色止加熱処理
し、この小絣経緯糸と白色若しくは淡色の地経
緯糸を使用して白地若しくは淡地の小絣織物を
製織し、この小絣織物に色止加熱処理よりも高
温な120℃〜150℃程度の加熱焼付処理を行い、
かかる焼付加熱処理した小絣織物に浸染を除く
友禅染,ローケツ染,刷毛染,スプレー染,絞
り染などの後染を行つて小絣模様に後染模様を
配在せしめることを特徴とする変わり小絣織物
の製造法。1. Small kasuri is attached using dyed starch mixed with fluorine-based resin, color-fixing heat treatment is applied to the small kasted weft and warp, and white or light-colored background warp and warp are used to create a white or light-colored fabric. We weave light-colored small kasuri fabrics, and then heat and bake the small kasuri fabrics at a temperature of 120℃ to 150℃, which is higher than the color fixing heat treatment.
A change sho is characterized in that the sintered heat-treated small kasuri fabric is subjected to piece dyeing such as yuzen dyeing, roketsu dyeing, brush dyeing, spray dyeing, tie dyeing, etc. other than dip dyeing, so that a piece dyed pattern is distributed in the small kasuri pattern. Manufacturing method for Kasuri textiles.
Priority Applications (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
JP61246137A JPS6399385A (en) | 1986-10-16 | 1986-10-16 | Production of fancy kogasuri fabric |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
JP61246137A JPS6399385A (en) | 1986-10-16 | 1986-10-16 | Production of fancy kogasuri fabric |
Publications (2)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
---|---|
JPS6399385A JPS6399385A (en) | 1988-04-30 |
JPH0437192B2 true JPH0437192B2 (en) | 1992-06-18 |
Family
ID=17144030
Family Applications (1)
Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
---|---|---|---|
JP61246137A Granted JPS6399385A (en) | 1986-10-16 | 1986-10-16 | Production of fancy kogasuri fabric |
Country Status (1)
Country | Link |
---|---|
JP (1) | JPS6399385A (en) |
Citations (2)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
JPS52110993A (en) * | 1976-03-15 | 1977-09-17 | Tanakanao Senriyouten Kk | Coloring resist printing method using of anoionic emulsion type fluoric water repelling agent |
JPS6128089A (en) * | 1984-07-14 | 1986-02-07 | 吉國織物株式会社 | Production of post-dyeing kasuri fabric |
-
1986
- 1986-10-16 JP JP61246137A patent/JPS6399385A/en active Granted
Patent Citations (2)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
JPS52110993A (en) * | 1976-03-15 | 1977-09-17 | Tanakanao Senriyouten Kk | Coloring resist printing method using of anoionic emulsion type fluoric water repelling agent |
JPS6128089A (en) * | 1984-07-14 | 1986-02-07 | 吉國織物株式会社 | Production of post-dyeing kasuri fabric |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
---|---|
JPS6399385A (en) | 1988-04-30 |
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