JPH04202827A - Production of raw silk cloth capable of performing discharge printing - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain the subject fiber, rich in feeling of ultrahigh class and useful as cloths, etc., for interiors by subjecting either of warp and weft yarns of silk to degumming and bleaching treatment while keeping the other in an undegummed state, dyeing the yarns with a reactive dye, weaving a cloth from both the yarns, scouring the cloth and then carrying out bleaching treatment with an oxidation bleaching agent. CONSTITUTION:Either of warp and weft yarns composed of silk is used in intact undegummed raw silk yarn and the other in the form of yarn is subjected to normal degumming and bleaching treatments, etc. The aforementioned yarns are dyed with a dischargeable reactive dye into a desired pattern to provide dyed yarns. Both the yarns are used to weave a cloth, which is then subjected to scouring treatment using a scouring liquid, prepared by dissolving a soap and an alkaline agent in water and containing an anionic surfactant or a nonionic surfactant, a white area staining inhibitor (a nonionic surfactant) a sequestering agent, etc., as additives. After completing the scouring treatment, bleaching treatment is performed with an oxidation bleaching agent to afford the objective cloth.

Description

[Detailed Description of the Invention] <Industrial Application Field> The present invention relates to unscoured raw silk of cellulose fibers such as silk, hemp, and cotton, and dyed yarn obtained by dyeing the raw silk so that it can be discharged. The purpose of this method is to produce a fabric that is scouring resistant and can be easily discharged. As a method, the taste of the color tone of so-called yarn-dyed products,
To economically provide high-grade dyed fabrics with vivid dyed patterns and excellent texture unique to piece-dyed products.

<Prior art> Conventionally, this type of fabric is well known as crepe, etc., but looking at these conventional products, for example, (1) raw silk is scoured, dyed, and then woven. So-called yarn-dyed products, which are made into woven cloth and then subjected to discharge printing or dyeing depending on the purpose. (2) Raw silk is woven and then scoured, dyed or discharge dyed. There are also so-called post-dyed textiles, which undergo drying and other processes.

<Problems to be Solved by the Invention> The present inventor has recently learned that there has been an increasing need from the crepe industry and general consumers for dyed fabrics that are even more luxurious than conventional products. As a result of examining the conventional products mentioned above, we found that the so-called yarn-dyed products in (1) are woven using threads that have been scoured and dyed, so that the excellent and unique texture that the above-mentioned piece-dyed products have cannot be obtained. In addition, the so-called post-dyed products in (2) have a major drawback in that although they can provide a unique texture, they cannot obtain the beautiful color tone such as luster and texture that are unique to pre-dyed products. It has been found.

Therefore, the inventor of the present invention has conducted various research and improvements on methods of manufacturing products that can improve the shortcomings of these conventional products and meet needs.The inventor has found that by combining the respective characteristics of pre-dyed products and piece-dyed products, the objective can be achieved. Knowing that you can get what you want,
We conducted research and development on the technology, processes, etc. necessary to make these combinations possible, and first tried a method of weaving using dyed yarn for the weft and scouring after weaving. Because the dyeing process requires a dyeing process that is scouring resistant, the fixation power of the dye that has been dyed on the fiber is extremely strong (and this makes discharge printing after scouring difficult, and even if discharge printing was possible, However, there were drawbacks such as the peripheral areas of the discharge dyeing being blurred and clear markings not being obtained, and conversely, if dyed threads were dyed in a dischargeable manner, decoloration would occur during post-kneading, so further research was needed. If you do this, use a reactive dye that is scouring resistant and dischargeable in the dyeing process of yarn dyed for either the warp or weft, and if you also devise a post-kneading treatment method, the problem will be solved. The present invention was completed based on this knowledge.

<Means for Solving the Problems> The present invention uses silk yarn or cellulose fiber yarn such as cotton, hemp, or rayon as the warp or weft, or uses either silk yarn or cellulose fiber as the warp. The other is used as a weft, one of the warp or weft is left as unscoured raw silk, and the other is thread-like and subjected to ordinary scouring, bleaching, etc., and then a reactive dye that can be discharged is applied. The raw silk and the dyed yarn are then woven to form a woven fabric, and then the woven fabric is soaked in water, soap, and an alkali. Scouring using a scouring solution that dissolves the agent as a main ingredient and further contains additives such as an anionic surfactant or nonionic surfactant, hot water stain prevention agent (nonionic surfactant), and metal ion sequestering agent. A method for producing a post-kneading and discharge-printable fabric, characterized in that the fabric is subjected to a bleaching process using an oxidizing bleach after the scouring process is completed, and the fabric obtained by the method is further subjected to a discharge printing process or a dyeing process. This relates to dyed fabrics.

The threads used in the fabric of the present invention are mainly silk threads, but cellulose fibers can also be used, such as cotton,
Examples include flax, jute, ramie, viscose and rayon threads.

In order to turn either the warp or the weft made of these materials into yarn-dyed yarn, the yarn is subjected to conventional scouring, bleaching, etc., and then dyed. For this dyeing process, it is necessary to select and use reactive dyes that have scouring resistance and are dischargeable. Examples of dyes that can be discharged include C1bacron dye (one product from Cjbi), Kayadion dye (Nippon Kayaku product), and Procion dye C.
1, CL company product) etc. are suitable. The dyeing conditions using these dyes are as follows: First, the yarn is immersed in a dye bath in which the dye is dissolved together with an auxiliary agent at a bath ratio of 1:30 to 1:50, and the yarn is heated at 30°C.
After 10 minutes at ~40°C, add Glauber's salt, maintain the conditions in step 5 for 40-50 minutes, then start raising the temperature,
After 30 minutes, adjust the dye bath temperature to 75-80°C, add soda ash while maintaining this temperature, and leave it as is.
After holding the temperature for 40 to 60 minutes, washing with water and then soaping for 10 minutes at 60'C is preferably carried out twice.

In addition to dyeing the entire system uniformly in this dyeing process,
Partial dyeing may be carried out using various methods to form a desired pattern.

Next, when forming a woven fabric using such yarn-dyed yarn, when the yarn-dyed yarn is used as the warp, unscoured raw silk is used as the weft, and when unscoured raw silk is used as the warp, the weft is used as the weft. The yarn is woven using a regular jacquard loom, etc. using yarn-dyed yarn.

In order to scouring a woven fabric having such a structure, the scouring agent to be added to the aqueous solution of the scouring bath must first be soap, alkaline agents (e.g., soda ash, silica, sodium bicarbonate, sodium sesquicarbonate, etc.). ), anionic surfactants or nonionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants as hot water pollution prevention agents, metal ion sequestering agents, etc. are required as additives, and products containing such scouring agents and auxiliary agents It is preferable to immerse the woven fabric in a scouring bath and perform a scouring treatment for 4 to 6 hours at a bath temperature of 96°C to 98°C. In addition, examples of anionic surfactants used as additives include sulfated oils, alkyl sulfates, alkyl sulfonates, alkylaryl sulfonates, and alkylnaphthalene sulfonates.
In addition, nonionic surfactants that can be used as hot water stain prevention agents include ethylene oxide, polyhydric alcohol fatty acid ester,
Polyethyleneimine type, fatty acid alkylolamide type, etc. can be used, and as metal ion sequestering agents, sodium polyphosphate, sodium EDTA, tartaric acid, citric acid, and chelating agents such as acetylacetone, oxine, glycine, ethylenediamine, bipyridine, etc. can be used. .

In order to improve the whitening of the woven fabric after scouring, a bleaching treatment is performed, and for this bleaching treatment, it is necessary to use, for example, an oxidizing bleaching agent such as hydrogen peroxide, sodium perborate, or soda peroxide.

The present invention provides a method for manufacturing a fabric that can be kneaded and discharged using the yarn-dyed yarn having the above-described steps, but the present invention also provides a method for producing a fabric obtained by the production method.・It also includes dyed fabrics as final products obtained by subjecting these fabrics to post-processing such as discharge printing or dyeing.

Discharge printing and dyeing as post-processing may be carried out by applying ordinary techniques such as hand painting or screen printing.

Effect> Since the dye used for dyeing the yarn-dyed yarn in the present invention is a reactive dye, it forms a covalent bond with the fiber molecules, so it has extremely strong dyeing power and has scouring resistance. However, if a reducing bleach such as hydrosulfide is used during scouring or bleaching after scouring, decolorization occurs, so an oxidizing bleach is used in the present invention.

In addition, by selectively using a dye that can be discharged, it has the characteristic that ordinary discharge printing techniques can be easily applied during post-processing after scouring.

<Examples> The embodiments of the present invention will be described below by showing specific examples, but the present invention is not limited to these examples.

Example 1 Silk threads were subjected to scouring, bleaching, etc. using known methods, and then dyed using the recipe shown below.

(1) In preparation for the dye bath, mix reactive dyes (Cibacron Yellow 6G, Cibacron Red, and Cibacron Blue 3R in the ratio of 1:5, ]0 in water 101).
4802 and a dye dispersion leveling agent (anionic surfactant) 407 as an auxiliary agent are mixed to form a dye bath.

(2) Next, in the dye bath, normal scouring at a bath ratio of 1:30,
After putting the bleached silk thread in the bath and keeping the bath temperature at 40°C for 10 minutes, add 5,002 grams of Glauber's salt (anhydrous) and maintain the temperature for another 50 minutes.Then, the temperature of the dyeing bath started to increase, and after 30 minutes, the bath temperature was increased. The temperature was adjusted to 80'C. The bath temperature is 80°C.
After reaching 2,051 liters of soda ash, the bath temperature was increased to 5,000 ml.
Maintain for 0 minutes. After that, the dyed thread is taken out from the dyeing bath, washed with water, and then soaped twice for 10 minutes at 60°C to form a dyed thread.

Next, the dyed yarn thus obtained was used as the weft, and the unscoured silk raw silk was used as the warp to form a woven fabric using a jacquard loom. Baume) 20CC1 100 parts of soap, 102 parts of anionic surfactant, 1 part of nonionic surfactant as a hot water stain prevention agent
09. The above woven fabric was immersed in a scouring bath obtained by mixing a chelating agent such as 39 as a metal ion sequestering agent, and the bath temperature was adjusted to 96.
Scouring treatment was performed for 6 hours while maintaining the temperature between °C and 98 °C, followed by bleaching treatment using an oxidative bleaching bath containing 2% by weight of hydrogen peroxide in water. As a result, the dyeing of the yarn-dyed yarn was It has been found that a discharge-printable silk fabric with an excellent texture after kneading can be obtained without affecting the color tone in any way.

Example 2 The woven fabric obtained in Example 1 was subjected to discharge printing using a screen printing method using a normal discharge printing agent. As a result, a clear discharge print pattern was formed, and the gloss and color tone unique to yarn-dyed yarn fabrics were created. A discharge-printed silk fabric with a unique texture was obtained.

Example 3 The discharge-printed portion of the discharge-printed silk fabric obtained in Example 2 was dyed using a printing paste containing a gold-containing dye by a normal screen printing method, resulting in a gloss and color tone unique to yarn-dyed fabrics. A silk fabric was obtained that was rich in the unique texture of post-kneaded and post-dyed fabrics, and exhibited clear patterns and colors.

Example 4 Using hemp thread instead of the silk thread used in Example 1, Example 1
As a result of processing in the same steps as in Example 1, it was found that a hemp fabric similar to that in Example 1 could be obtained.

Example 5 Instead of the silk thread used in Example 1, unscoured silk thread was used as the warp thread, cotton thread was used as the weft thread, the cotton thread was used as the yarn-dyed thread in the same manner as in Example 1, and both of these threads were used. It was found that a mixed woven fabric of silk and cotton similar to that of Example 1 could be obtained in the same manner as in Example 1.

<Effects of the Invention> As explained above, according to the present invention, the dye used in the yarn-dyed yarn has scouring resistance and high fastness, so that the shine, gloss, etc. peculiar to fabrics using the yarn-dyed yarn can be improved. Not only can you obtain a woven fabric that maintains its color tone, but since it is a post-kneaded product, you can also obtain a fabric that has the unique soft texture of traditional crepe. There is no contamination caused by the dyed yarn, and since oxidative bleaching agents are used during bleaching, there is no decoloration, and the dye used in the dyed yarn can be discharged, so the discharge printing process that is the post-processing can be carried out easily. At the same time, it is possible to form an extremely clear discharge-printed pattern, and even in the dyeing process after discharge-printing, a clearly dyed product can be obtained. Compared to dyed products, it is a much more beautiful fabric with an extremely luxurious feel, and it can be used not only for traditional high-quality crepe, but also for Western clothing, inchinriya fabric, etc. It has high industrial value.

Claims (4)

[Claims] (1) (a) One of the warp and weft made of silk is left as unscoured raw silk, and the other is thread-like and subjected to normal scouring, bleaching, etc., and then a dischargeable reactive dye is applied to it. (b) Weaving is performed using these two yarns, and the resulting woven fabric is dissolved in water, soap, and an alkali agent, and anion is added as an additive. Scouring treatment is carried out using a scouring solution containing a surfactant or a nonionic surfactant, a hot water stain prevention agent (nonionic surfactant), a sequestering agent, etc., and (c) after the scouring treatment is completed. , carry out bleaching treatment using oxidizing bleach. A method for producing a fabric capable of post-kneading and discharge printing, comprising these steps. (2) A method for producing a fabric capable of post-kneading and discharge printing according to claim 1, characterized in that cellulose fibers are used in place of the silk described in (a) above. (3) Instead of the silk in claim 1 (a), both silk and cellulose fibers are used for either the warp or the weft, respectively. A method for producing the described fabric that can be kneaded and discharged. (4) A dyed fabric obtained by subjecting a woven fabric obtained by the method described in claim 1, 2, or 3 to a discharge printing process, or a discharge printing process and a dyeing process.