JPH04114503U - Japanese clothes - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Summary] [Structure] Japanese clothing characterized by having a structure in which the seam has a pattern and the seam allowance is wrapped with piping tape. [Effect] It is possible to form a uniform pattern, and the retention of the formed pattern can be significantly improved. Furthermore, sewing efficiency is improved, and fraying of fabric edges near seams and seam displacement can be prevented. The Japanese clothes of the present invention are especially suitable for business use clothes that are frequently worn and washed.

Description

[Detailed explanation of the idea]

0001

[Industrial application field]

This invention relates to Japanese clothing.

0002

[Problems to be solved by conventional technology and ideas]

Traditionally, when sewing Japanese clothes, the following work steps are required, taking the side-seaming as an example. there was. Joining ground stitch (lock stitch) Folding position iron (iron) Seam allowance iron (iron) Left and right seam allowance edge folding iron (iron) Edge stitching of left and right seam allowances (hand sewn) Each of these steps had the following problems. In other words, the splicing area of During the sewing process, the seam allowance is wide, so the seams tend to meander. folding position In the ironing process, the amount of trim tends to fluctuate due to meandering of the ground seam. of In the seam allowance dividing ironing process and the left and right seam allowance edge folding ironing process, You may accidentally erase the kise. In the left and right seam allowance edge stitching process, the seam allowance width direction This may cause misalignment in the seam direction, meandering of the hooked stitches, or twisting between the base stitches and the hooked stitches. Prone to wrinkles. In addition, the process of ~ is done manually and is therefore time consuming. The work efficiency was poor.

0003 Here, as shown in Figure 2B, "Kise" 1 means that the lock seam breaks during wear. In order to prevent the warp threads from shifting, and to hide the lock stitches from being exposed, Formed by folding the fabric back and ironing it while maintaining a constant width from the seam. This refers to the surplus area near the stitched seam.

0004 In addition, "kuke" 5 or "kukeru" means seam allowance 4 as shown in Figure 2B. This refers to folding the material and sewing it inconspicuously onto the outer material using a small needle.

[0005] The joints sewn in this way can be worn and washed repeatedly. 1 gradually disappears, not only degrading the appearance, but also warp threads at the seams. The amount of misalignment also increased, causing damage.

[0006]

[Means to solve the problem]

In order to solve the above problems, the Japanese clothing of the present invention has the following configuration. That is, A structure in which a seam with a crease 1 is wrapped around a seam allowance 4 with piping tape 3 This is Japanese clothing characterized by having.

[0007] Hereinafter, the Japanese clothing of the present invention will be explained in detail with reference to FIG. In this invention, "Japanese clothes" refers to the seams of a single kimono, long undergarment, haori, coat, etc. It refers to a kimono with a kise on the part. Japanese clothing materials include synthetic fiber fabrics and silk fabrics. Either is fine. As a synthetic fiber, it has excellent washability and durability. Polyester is preferred.

[0008] In the Japanese clothes of this invention, the seams with Kise 1 have a seam allowance of 4 by using piping tape 3. It has a piping structure that wraps around the collar, but there are no joints other than the collar and sleeves. If the piping structure has such a piping structure, the variation in the amount of cut 2 at the seam portion will be reduced. This can improve the efficiency of sewing work and prevent the threads from fraying at the raw edges. It is preferable from the viewpoint of Note that the joints of the collar and sleeves usually form a kise. There's nothing to do.

[0009] The joints of the Japanese clothes of the present invention are made of cut pieces (hereinafter referred to as While covering both seam allowances of the parts) with piping tape 3, ensure a constant width of seam allowance 4. It can be formed by holding and sewing.

0010 At this time, the crease amount 2 becomes smaller, which prevents the sewing thread of the plain stitch from being seen, and at the same time From the viewpoint of preventing the amount of shearing 2 from increasing and the amount of shearing 1 disappearing, piping seams are The protrusion allowance 7 from 6 to the bent end of the piping tape should be 0.5 to 3 mm. preferable. If the above protrusion allowance 7 is 2 ± 1 mm, then after folding one side of the fabric, The advantage is that the wrinkles are already formed even if you do not try to form them. Even more preferred.

[0011] The preferred material for the piping tape is a woven fabric made of the same material as the woven fabric to be sewn. commonly used. The suture parts of Japanese clothes are all long, and from the perspective of preventing twisting, If the piping tape is made of woven material, it is best to use positive bias tape. preferable. In addition, when using knitted fabric as the material for piping tape, bias It can be used not only in the direction but also in the vertical direction.

0012 When ironing, maintain appropriate hardness to the extent that it can be used as a guideline for cutting amount 2. This improves work efficiency, and also reduces the bulge in the crease due to the thickness of the folded part. While giving a soft feel, the seam allowance area with a decorative iron or finishing iron The thickness of the piping tape is 0.06 to prevent the occurrence of smearing. It is preferable to set it to 0.3 mm.

[0013] Also, if the color of the piping tape fabric is close to the outer material, it will be difficult to use when wearing thin Japanese clothes. It is also preferable because it is difficult to see through the front surface.

[0014] A measure to prevent damage caused by seam misalignment due to the seam allowance 4 at the joint being too small. On the other hand, there is a view to prevent the seam allowance from becoming unstable due to the seam allowance being too large. From this point of view, it is preferable that the finished width of the piping is 5 to 20 mm, and 8 to 14 mm. It is even more preferable to

[0015] Parts can be joined by hand sewing, but machine sewing is more efficient. Preferable from this point of view.

[0016] In addition, all seam allowances for the joints of the Japanese clothing of this invention are relatively narrow piping. Because it is stored inside the tape 3, there is no need for a threading process, which improves sewing efficiency. This has the effect of significantly improving the performance.

[0017] In addition, Japanese clothes are generally cut and sewn from small cloth, but 122 cm, 150 cm, etc. In some cases, each part is cut from a wide woven fabric. In such cases, the structure of the Japanese clothing of the present invention If this is done, the seam allowance can be significantly reduced, reducing the length and cost. It also has the effect of achieving down.

[0018] Furthermore, the seam structure at the joint of the Japanese clothing of this invention is inside the piping tape. This prevents the raw edges of the wrapped seam allowance from fraying, so it is often worn and Even if Japanese clothes are washed, they will last a long time without fraying. It also has the effect of

[0019] Hereinafter, the Japanese clothing of the present invention will be explained in more detail with reference to Examples.

[0020]

【Example】

In addition, in the examples, the seam structure of the Japanese clothes of the present invention was evaluated by the following method. Ta. <Meandering amount of cutting> Measure the runout width (mm) when the distance from the base seam to the edge of the fold is 2 mm. The results were determined according to the following three levels. ○: 0.3 mm or less, △: more than 0.3 mm and less than 0.6 mm, ×: 0.6 mm or more <Effects of hair iron> The washing conditions were 3 washes with water according to JIS L 0216-104, and the washing was done before and after washing. The state of maintenance of the applied texture was visually judged into the following three levels. ○: A state in which the pattern is maintained at all seams that require a pattern. △: Condition where the wrinkles have partially disappeared ×: No sharpening at all <Meandering width of the bridge> Measure the deviation width (mm) for the specified distance from the base seam to the hooked seam, Based on the value, it was judged into the following three levels. ○: 2 mm or less, △: more than 2 mm and less than 6 mm, ×: 6 mm or more <Twisted wrinkles at the edge> The state of occurrence of twisting and wrinkles in the seam allowance of the heel was visually judged into the following three grades. ○: No twist or wrinkles at all △: There are some twisting wrinkles, but they are not noticeable from the outside. ×: There are many twists and wrinkles, which are noticeable from the front. <Work efficiency> Judgment was made into the following three levels based on the number of steps required for one seam. ○: 2 steps, △: 3 steps, ×: 4 or more steps (Example 1) The left and right body, neckline, and collar of a single-length long garment are made of silk made of polyester summer kimono fabric. It was cut into sleeves. All seam allowances were 1cm, and the excess was trimmed off. Tee for piping The tape is made of polyester habutae fabric, thickness 0.095mm, tape width 40mm. mm positive bias tape was used, and the finished piping width was 11.5 mm.

[0021] Each of these parts was sewn in the following steps. Back seam: Align the back seam allowance edges of the left and right back sections, use piping tape, and lockstitch. do. Stitching: Align the left and right edges of the fabric and the edges of the front body, and pinch with piping tape. Perform lock stitching. Side seam: Align the edges of the front and back fabrics and sew to 5cm below the end of the body. Sewing is done by sewing. Side seam: a) From the bottom of the back section to the sleeve opening to the end of the front section Piping with one piece of dough. b) Align the edges of the front and back fabrics from the bottom of the yatsuguchi end, and fold the two pieces together. Piping all the way to the hem. Corrected ironing: Line the fabric along the piping fold edge of each seam and iron. When applied, a pattern of a certain width is formed.

[0022] The sleeves and collar were sewn using a conventional method. Figure 1A shows after aligning the back seam allowance edges, sandwiching them between piping tape 3 and lock stitching. Condition, Figure 1B shows the state in which one side of the fabric is folded and ironed to form a pattern 1. shows. There was no meandering with a cutting amount of 2, and work efficiency was improved. Also, there is no problem with the retention of the texture. It was. Table 1 shows the work process and the evaluation results for the obtained Japanese clothes.

[0023]

[Table 1]

[0024] (Comparative example 1) Made of polyester crepe, cut into the left and right body, collar, collar and sleeves of a single long garment. Ta. At this time, I did not cut off the excess seam allowance and left it all.

[0025] Each of these parts was sewn using the following conventional process. That is, Joining and sewing (sewing machine) Folding position iron (iron) Seam allowance dividing iron and seam allowance one-sided iron (iron) Left and right seam allowance edge folding iron (iron) Edge stitching of left and right seam allowances (hand sewn) FIG. 2A shows a state in which a pattern 1 is formed after joining and ground sewing. Figure 2B is a hand By sewing the edges of the left and right seam allowances, a crevice 1 and a crevice 5 are formed. The final stage of the seam structure is shown. The work process and the evaluation results for the obtained Japanese clothes are also shown in Table 1.

[0026] (Comparative example 2) Made of polyester crepe, cut into the left and right body, collar, collar and sleeves of a single long garment. Ta. At this time, the seam allowance was trimmed to an overlock width of 0.8cm.

[0027] Each of these parts was sewn on the back, inset, and on the sides using the following steps. Joining ground stitching (2 needle 4 thread overlock) Folding position iron (iron) In Figure 3, overlock is applied, this is joined to create ground stitch 9, and then the 1 is shown. The work process and the evaluation results for the obtained Japanese clothes are also shown in Table 1.

[0028]

[Effect of the idea]

The Japanese clothes of this invention can form a uniform pattern, and can also maintain the formed pattern. The durability can be significantly improved. In addition, sewing work efficiency is improved, and sewing It is possible to prevent the edges of the fabric near the seams from fraying and seams from shifting. The Japanese clothes of the present invention are particularly suitable for business-use clothes that are frequently worn and washed. be.

[Submission date] April 3, 1991

[Procedural amendment 1]

[Name of document to be amended] Specification

[Correction target item name] 0023

[Correction method] Change

[Correction details]

[0023]

[Table 1]

[Brief explanation of drawings]

FIG. 1 is a perspective view showing an example of the piping structure of Japanese clothes according to the present invention, in which A shows the state after the back seam allowance edges are aligned and is sewn between piping tapes 3, and B shows the state after one piece of fabric is folded back. The image shows a state in which a wrinkle 1 has been formed after ironing.

FIG. 2 is a perspective view showing an example of a joint part of conventional Japanese clothing, that is, a piping structure and a seam structure in which a crease is formed without a piping structure, and A is a state in which a crease 1 is formed after joining and sewing. , B shows the seam structure at the final stage in which the edges 1 and the edges 5 are formed by hand-sewing the left and right seam allowance ends.

FIG. 3 is a perspective view showing an example of the state of a seam structure in which the seams are joined by overlocking and then a crease is formed.

[Explanation of symbols]

1: Kise 2: Amount of sharpness 3: Piping tape 4: Seam allowance 5: Kuke 6: Piping seam 7: Overhang allowance 8: Finished width of piping 9: Ground seam 10: Back side of front body

Claims (2)

[Scope of utility model registration request] 1. Japanese clothing characterized by having a structure in which a seam with a pattern is wrapped around a seam allowance with piping tape. 2. The Japanese clothing according to claim 1, wherein the protrusion from the piping seam to the bent end of the piping tape is 0.5 to 3 mm.