JPH0357982B2 - - Google Patents

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION (a) Field of Industrial Application The present invention relates to a soft-touch yarn-dyed woven or knitted fabric made of soft, bulky spun yarn, so-called non-twisted yarn.

(b) Conventional technology Spun yarn maintains its shape and strength by twisting short fiber bundles, resulting in filaments, entanglements generated by migration, and frictional force generated by lateral pressure due to twisting. are doing.
Therefore, it was thought that cloth foil made from spun yarn would be extremely weak if the spun yarn was not twisted. However, in recent years, spun yarns made by hardening short fiber bundles with adhesives have been made, and the properties of cloth when removed with adhesives after it has been made are becoming known. According to the results, fabric foil made of untwisted spun yarn is stronger than expected and has the same strength as fabric fabric made of ordinary spun yarn, has low air permeability and water permeability, and has a high density The texture changes easily depending on the color. High-density woven fabrics made of untwisted spun yarn from which the adhesive has been removed are harder than woven fabrics made of normal spun yarn, whereas woven or knitted fabrics of low density are significantly softer. The softness of low-density non-twisted fabrics is due to the weak binding force between the fibers, which allows them to be stretched, sheared,
Rather than showing no resistance to bending,
This seems to be because the space between the fibers becomes larger, which reduces the compression resistance and makes it softer to the touch. Therefore, it is difficult to make a woven fabric similar to a low-density non-twisted yarn fabric from conventional spun yarn, and the same is considered to be the same for knitted fabrics.

In response, proposals have been made to create yarns similar to non-twisted spun yarns from conventional spun yarns. It involves aligning a spun yarn with water-soluble vinylon yarn, twisting it in the direction of untwisting the spun yarn, and creating a yarn with very little twist in the spun yarn and water-soluble vinylon yarn wrapped around it. This is a method in which the water-soluble vinylon thread is removed with warm water after making cloth foil using the thread. However, it is extremely difficult to yarn-dye the twisted yarn obtained by this method. This is because water-soluble vinylon is unstable and dissolves in an aqueous dye bath, and loses its water solubility when subjected to heat treatment in dry dyeing, making dissolution treatment in subsequent steps impossible. Furthermore, removing water-soluble vinylon with hot water produces polyvinyl alcohol (PVA), but PVA has a strong affinity for various types of fibers, so it is difficult to remove and requires a considerable amount of hot water. If hot water washing is insufficient, the fabric will become hard due to adhesion between fibers, making it impossible to obtain the desired texture. Also PVA
Disposal of large amounts of hot water containing hot water poses difficult environmental problems.

In addition, water-soluble vinylon expands and contracts significantly depending on the humidity in the air, and at the same time its Young's modulus changes significantly. Therefore, in the process of making yarn using water-soluble vinylon, various drawbacks occur unless temperature and humidity are controlled extremely precisely. Furthermore, if twisted cheese is subjected to thread steaming or dry heat treatment, it may become difficult to unravel or become difficult to dissolve in water, so as a general rule, such processes should be avoided. In cases where synthetic fibers are mixed in the yarn, the yarn obtained by plying and twisting exhibits strong torque properties, causing problems such as the formation of snarls, which significantly impairs processability.

(c) Problems to be Solved by the Invention The present invention enables yarn dyeing of untwisted yarn using soluble fibers, which has been difficult in the past.

(d) Means for Solving the Problems The present invention is a method in which continuous yarns made of easily alkali-soluble polyester fibers are arranged in a spun yarn made of poorly alkali-soluble fibers, and the spun yarns are twisted in the direction in which the spun yarns are untwisted. This is a yarn-dyed knitted fabric of bulky spun yarn, which is characterized in that a woven or knitted fabric is made using the dyed twisted yarn, and the easily alkali-soluble polyester fibers are dissolved and removed from the woven or knitted fabric using an alkaline solution.

In the present invention, a composite yarn made by twisting and twisting alkali-soluble polyester fibers may be used alone, but
In order to achieve the effect of yarn dyeing, it is necessary to mix the composite yarns dyed in various colors, or mix the composite yarns with ordinary yarns to form uneven patterns due to color patterns and bulk. It is preferable.

The latent bulky composite yarn used in the present invention is made into a form in which easily alkali-soluble fibers are wound around short fiber bundles of poorly alkali-soluble fibers, and then dyed.
It maintains its shape while the alkali-soluble fibers are wrapped around it, but when the alkali-soluble fibers are removed, it swells up and takes on the most stable form according to the structure of the cloth or plied yarn. Change. At this time, if twist remains in the remaining short fiber bundle, the degree of swelling becomes smaller as the twist coefficient increases. This swelling is caused by the twist coefficient (cotton count type).
If it is larger than 2.0, it becomes less noticeable, which is not preferable.

The fewer the twists in the short fiber bundles remaining after removing the alkali-soluble fibers, the greater the bulkiness will be. However, it is often not locally twisted. In such cases, a slight change in the number of twists may cause a significant change in bulk. In such cases, it is better to leave a slight twist in the fabric to create a more uniform fabric. In such a case, it may be twisted to a slightly over-twisted state. Over-untwisted spun yarns tend to have greater torque properties than yarns with some twist remaining, and are preferred because they tend to be bulky despite the residual twist.

As the slightly alkali-soluble fiber used in the spun yarn used in the present invention, cotton, hemp, rayon (especially polynosic), nylon, polyester (regular type), vinylon, acrylic, etc. can be used.
Silk, wool, and acetate cannot be used.

Easily alkali-soluble polyester fibers include fibers whose main component is polyethylene terephthalate, which are copolymerized with 2-25 mol% of a compound having sulfonic acid groups and two or more ester-forming groups, or fibers with sulfonic acid groups. 2-5 mol% of a compound having two or more ester-forming groups and 2 mol% or more of a dicarboxylic acid having no sulfonic acid group other than terephthalic acid are copolymerized, and the main component is polyethylene terephthalate and contains ethylene terephthalate units. Fibers with a ratio of 70% or more by weight or molecular weight
200-10000 polyether or its derivative 5
- 25% by weight copolymerized fibers whose main component is polyethylene terephthalate, or 2% by mole or more of a compound having a sulfonic acid group and two or more ester-forming groups, with a molecular weight of 200-10,000 polyether or its Fibers copolymerized with 2% by weight or more of derivatives, the main component of which is polyethylene terephthalate, and the content of ethylene terephthalate units is 70% by weight or more, or fibers with sulfonic acid groups and 2 or more ester-forming groups. Preferable fibers are copolymerized with 2-5 mol% of a compound and 2 mol% or more of a glycol compound with a molecular weight of less than 200, the main component of which is polyethylene terephthalate, and the content of ethylene terephthalate units is 70% by weight or more. .

As a compound having a sulfonic acid group and having two or more ester-forming groups, an alkali metal salt of sulfoisophthalate is preferable from the viewpoint of cost and reactivity.
As the dicarboxylic acid having no sulfonic acid group other than terephthalic acid to be copolymerized, isophthalic acid and adipic acid are preferred from the viewpoint of cost.

Examples of polyethers or derivatives thereof having a molecular weight of 200 to 10,000 to be copolymerized include polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, polytetramethylene glycol, random or block copolymers of polyethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol, and polyethers having an ester-forming group at the end thereof. It is blocked by an ether bond, an imide bond, etc. so that more than one bond remains.

Glycol compounds with a molecular weight of less than 200 to be copolymerized include 1,2 propanediol,
1,3 propanediol, 1,3 butanediol, 1,4 butanediol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, and neopentyl glycol are preferred, and 1,4 butanediol and diethylene glycol are most preferred in consideration of stability in the polymerization process.

The continuous yarn body of the easily alkali-soluble polyester fiber used in the present invention may have a structure as a continuous yarn of multifilament, monofilament, spun yarn, or yarn obtained by slitting or splitting a film, or may be crimped. It is also possible to use threads that have been treated with In order to increase the alkali dissolution rate, it is preferable that the single fibers be thin, and it is preferable that the fibers have an irregular cross section rather than a circular cross section.

In the present invention, the alkaline solution for dissolving the alkali-soluble polyester fiber has a concentration of 0.1-10%,
The solvent is water or a water-based solvent, or an alcohol or an alcohol-based solvent. Furthermore, various additives may be added as necessary. The appropriate treatment temperature is 60° C. or higher and lower than the boiling point of the solvent, but in order to promote dissolution, the treatment can be performed at a temperature higher than the boiling point of the solvent by applying pressure using a closed container. When dissolving easily alkali-soluble polyester fiber in an alkaline solution, it may be completely dissolved, but
If necessary, a part of the alkali easily soluble polyester fiber may be left undissolved.

Example 1 2.5 mol% sodium sulfoisophthalate,
A copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.49 measured at 30°C was melt-spun using a mixture of equivalent amounts of phenol and tetrachloroethane in which 5 mol% of isophthalic acid was copolymerized and wound at 1300 m/min. This fiber was drawn in a conventional manner to obtain a 40 denier/24 filament multifilament.

This thread and cotton No. 16 combed thread (twist number 520t/m
It was combined with Z twist) and wound with S twist of 480t/m. The remaining twist was 1 t/in and the twist coefficient was 0.5. Using this composite yarn as a skein, add reactive dye (Mikacion Red GS) 1% owf 20g/
It was immersed in a dye bath with a bath ratio of 30:1, dyed at 30°C for 30 minutes, added with an aqueous soda ash solution (7% OWF), fixed for an additional 40 minutes, washed with water, soaped, and dried. This yarn-dyed composite yarn was woven to a warp density of 32 yarns/in and a weft yarn density of 36 yarns/in, and the alkali easily soluble polyester fibers were dissolved in the following treatment solution.

Sodium hydroxide 4% Ethylene glycol 1% Sodium terephthalate Saturated Water Residual At a bath ratio of 100:1, a temperature of 98°C, and a treatment time of 30 minutes, the alkali-soluble polyester fibers are completely dissolved and removed, and the extremely soft twisted cotton yarn (non-twisted yarn ) was obtained. The resulting fabric was extremely bulky, soft to the touch, and had about twice the water absorption capacity as before treatment.

Example 2 A copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.46 measured at 30°C was melt-spun using a mixture of equivalent amounts of phenol and tetrachloroethane, in which 3 mol% of sulfoisophthalic acid and 4 mol% of diethylene glycol were copolymerized. I rolled it up in minutes.
This fiber was drawn by a conventional method to obtain a fiber of 75 denier/filament.

This fiber and cotton No. 30 single yarn (twist number 680t/m, Z
While aligning the strands (twist), a 650t/m S twist was applied and wound. Using this composite yarn as a skein, apply reactive dye (Mikacion Blue RG) 0.5owf and anhydrous sulfur 15%.
g/, immersed in a dye bath with a bath ratio of 30:1 and dyed at 30℃ for 20
It was dyed for a minute, added with an aqueous soda ash solution (5% OWF) and fixed for an additional 30 minutes, washed with water, doped, and dried. This yarn-dyed composite yarn has a warp density of 30/2.5
After weaving at a weft density of 38/2.5 cm ² , the easily alkali-soluble polyester was dissolved in the same alkaline treatment solution as in Example 1. At a bath ratio of 100:1, a temperature of 98°C, and a treatment time of 50 minutes, the alkali-soluble polyester fibers were completely dissolved and removed, resulting in an extremely bulky and soft-touch non-twisted fabric made of extremely soft cotton yarn. .

Example 3 Copolymerized polyethylene terephthalate with an intrinsic viscosity of 0.47 measured at 30°C was melt-spun using a mixture of equivalent amounts of phenol and tetrachloroethane in which 10 mol% of sodium sulfoisophthalate was copolymerized.
It was wound up at 1300m/min. This fiber was drawn in a conventional manner to obtain a 40 denier/24 filament multifilament.

This thread and cotton No. 16 combed thread (number of twists 520t/m,
It was combined with Z twist) and then wound with S twist of 480t/m. This composite yarn is used as a skein to dye direct dyes.
Brown 3G) 1% OWF, anhydrous sulfur sulfate 10% OWF, bath ratio 20:1 dye bath, dyed at 60°C for 20 minutes, wrung out, left to cool for a while, washed with water, dehydrated, and dried.

After knitting this yarn-dyed composite yarn using an 18-gauge circular knitting machine, the easily alkali-soluble polyester fiber was subjected to dissolution treatment using the same alkaline treatment solution as in Example 1. At a bath ratio of 100:1, a temperature of 98° C., and a treatment time of 30 minutes, the alkali easily soluble polyester fibers were completely dissolved and removed, and an extremely bulky knitted fabric made of extremely soft twisted cotton yarn was obtained.

(f) Effects of the invention Due to the shedding of single fibers, very lightly twisted spun yarn cannot be woven, knitted, dyed, etc. by ordinary methods, but according to the method of the present invention, it is By twisting and twisting alkali-soluble continuous yarns into spun yarns, it became possible to dye the yarns using conventional methods, and it became possible to produce yarn-dyed fabrics and yarn-dyed knitted items.

The knitted fabric of the present invention is extremely bulky, soft to the touch, and has excellent water absorbency, and exhibits excellent performance when used for underwear, towels, etc.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1 Spun yarn consisting of poorly alkali-soluble fibers and continuous yarn consisting of easily alkali-soluble polyester fibers are aligned, twisted in the direction of untwisting the spun yarns, and then dyed to make woven or knitted fabrics. 1. A yarn-dyed woven or knitted fabric made of bulky spun yarn, characterized in that the easily alkali-soluble polyester fibers are dissolved and removed from the woven or knitted fabric using an alkaline solution.