JPH0325528B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

The present invention has strong twist effects such as a delicate silky feel, drapability, weight, and elastic texture similar to strong twist yarns, and the resulting fabric does not have the appearance of thin defects and has an overall voluminous feel. , relates to a highly twisted special bulky textured yarn that can impart a soft feel. More specifically, it is a yarn in which bulky thermoplastic synthetic fiber yarn is left with actual twist by unsteady false twisting, and the actual twist in different twist directions in the longitudinal direction of the yarn can be of any length. The present invention relates to a highly twisted bulky yarn in which the bulkiness of the two portions, which are alternately present in different twist directions, are substantially the same. Conventionally, as a technique for applying unsteady false twisting during false twisting to alternately form real twists with different twist directions in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, there was
Publication No. 14615, Special Publication No. 14615, Special Publication No. 14615, Special Publication No. 14615, Special Publication No. 14615-
Publication No. 8414, Japanese Patent Application Laid-open No. 1983-108353, Japanese Patent Publication No. 1977-108353
Several examples have been proposed in Publication No. 49949 and Japanese Patent Application Laid-open No. 53-61745, but in this way, the yarn obtained by simply subjecting thermoplastic synthetic fiber yarn to unsteady twisting is highly twisted. However, as shown in FIG. 2, the untwisted portion having a twist in the false-twisting direction has no bulkiness, unlike the over-untwisting portion having a twist in the false-twisting/untwisting direction. Due to the difference in bulkiness between the two yarns, woven and knitted fabrics made of such yarns will exhibit a sink-like defect-like appearance if an untwisted part exists alone, and the untwisted part If they are present in a concentrated manner, they have the disadvantage of locally exhibiting defect-like appearance spots with a lack of thickness. On the other hand, Japanese Patent Publication No. 51-225 describes a false-twisted continuous untwisted yarn obtained by false-twisting at a high temperature. However, this method for manufacturing false-twisted continuous untwisted yarn is different from the unsteady false-twisting described above, in that untwisted portions and over-untwisted portions are formed by steady false-twisting. In other words, by false twisting at high temperatures, the filaments are slightly or highly fused, making it difficult for untwisting to occur downstream of the twisting device, thereby forming an untwisted part. In order to compensate for the twist, an over-untwisted twist, which is the opposite twist, is formed while dividing the ununtwisted part, and from the principle of ununtwisted-overuntwisted formation, the ununtwisted part and the over-untwisted part are separated. The length of the twisted part ranges from several millimeters to a few centimeters at most, and the length of the untwisted part and the over-untwisted part, which is the object of the present invention, are both 50 cm or more. I can't get any thread. The false twisted continuous untwisted yarn obtained by this method is
As shown in the figure, the untwisted part E and the overtwisted part F are almost symmetrical, but as mentioned above, their lengths range from several millimeters to several centimeters at most, so they are alternately arranged. There are many twist transition points, and the untwisted and overtwisted areas are strongly fused together, so when fabric is made, a short pattern is formed, resulting in a mottled appearance and a lack of uniformity. In addition, since it is a rod-shaped yarn with strong rigidity, it has the disadvantage that it becomes thin and paper-like. Furthermore, Japanese Patent Application Laid-open No. 53-98448 also describes a false-twisted continuous untwisted yarn, but this processed yarn has an untwisted part and an overly untwisted part separated by a steady false twisting process similar to the above. Therefore, it is impossible to obtain processed yarn in which the untwisted part and the overly untwisted part, which is the object of the present invention, are both 50 cm or more in length. It is impossible to make a highly twisted fabric that has drape properties, a heavy feel, and is also rich in volume and softness, and has a uniform appearance. The present invention solves the drawbacks of the conventional highly twisted yarns, and provides a highly twisted special bulky yarn that can significantly reduce unevenness in yarn thickness and improve the uniformity of the appearance of the resulting fabric. It is a bulky thermoplastic synthetic fiber yarn with residual SZ alternating twist,
The single yarns constituting the yarn do not fuse, and the bulkiness of the untwisted part with twist in the false-twisting direction is substantially different from the bulkiness of the over-untwisted part with twist in the false-untwisting direction. This is a highly twisted special bulky yarn characterized by having the same characteristics, and the lengths of both the untwisted part and the overly untwisted part are 50 cm or more. The highly twisted special bulky textured yarn of the present invention is a bulky thermoplastic synthetic fiber yarn in which real twist remains after unsteady false twisting. In the present invention, bulking means that the ratio of the apparent outer diameter of the yarn before bulking under almost no tension load to the apparent outer diameter of the bulky yarn is at least 1.1 or more, and preferably at least 1.1.
1.2 or more, and any method may be used to increase the bulk as long as the bulkiness does not disappear during the subsequent unsteady false twisting process, such as the normal false twist crimp process, This includes a pressing crimping method, a scratching method, and a fluid jetting method that performs bulk processing without heating. In addition, unsteady false twisting refers to performing an active unsteady false twisting operation. Specifically, it includes intermittent driving of the false twisting spindle, variable speed driving of the feed roller, and yarn path in the false twisting and untwisting zone. This refers to a method using displacement, etc., and does not include false twisting, ununtwisting, etc. that are simply performed continuously.
Furthermore, bulkiness refers to the degree of bulkiness based on the apparent outer diameter of the yarn, and the term "substantially the same bulkiness" refers to the larger difference in the apparent outer diameter of the yarn under a slight load that is close to zero tension. 10% or less, preferably 5% or less. Hereinafter, the bulky textured yarn of the present invention will be further explained with reference to the drawings. FIG. 1 shows the bulky textured yarn of the present invention, and as mentioned above, the conventional alternately twisted yarn shown in FIG. In contrast, the bulky textured yarn of the present invention has almost no difference in bulk between the untwisted part A and the overly untwisted part C, and the untwisted part in the twist direction changing part. Alternatively, the nearly non-twisted portions B and D are also bulky, and are uniformly bulky along the longitudinal direction of the yarn. As described above, in the processed yarn of the present invention, the untwisted portion A has bulkiness similar to the over-untwisted portion C, so when the bulky processed yarn of the present invention is made into a fabric, it may have sink marks, imperfections, thin walls, etc. The defect-like appearance spots can be greatly reduced, and the fabric can have an overall feeling of volume and softness. Next, a method for manufacturing the bulky textured yarn of the present invention will be explained. First, as a method for obtaining a yarn having a twist number distribution in the longitudinal direction of the yarn by subjecting a conventional thermoplastic synthetic fiber yarn to an active unsteady false twisting operation, for example, fluid intermittent twisting is used. To explain the case of false twisting, the thermoplastic synthetic fiber yarn is passed through a false twisting process using a twisting nozzle (hereinafter referred to as the nozzle) using a straightening fluid, and the fluid is intermittently supplied to the nozzle. The yarn is then repeatedly turned and stopped, giving the yarn an alternating twist utilizing the transient phenomenon of false twisting.
In this case, an untwisted portion A' is formed when the fluid is stopped, and an overtwisted portion C' is formed when the fluid is supplied. Then, an untwisted part B' is formed between the untwisted part A' and the overtwisted part C', and an untwisted part D' is formed between the overtwisted part C' and the untwisted part A'. Ru. In the over-twisted part C', the twist is twisted by the compressed fluid supplied to the nozzle before passing through the nozzle, and the twist is heat-set by the heating device, and after passing through the nozzle, the twist is twisted in the opposite direction by the nozzle. It is formed by being rapidly subjected to an untwisting action and being untwisted in the direction opposite to the twisting direction. Therefore, in the over-untwisted part C', after the thermoplastic yarn is twisted and heat-set, it is untwisted in the opposite direction beyond the zero point of the twist number, so each single yarn making up the yarn is untwisted. Due to the fixation of the shape and the generation of torsional torque, the densely packed state is not achieved, and the yarn becomes bulkier than the supplied raw yarn. On the other hand, the untwisted part A' is twisted by the compressed fluid supplied to the nozzle before passing through the nozzle, and after the twist is heat-fixed by the heating device, the compressed fluid is supplied to the nozzle. Since the supply of yarn is stopped, it is not subjected to untwisting after passing through the nozzle, and since the yarn is twisted before passing through the nozzle and remains sufficiently heat-set, it is highly focused with respect to the supplied raw yarn. The result is a yarn with no bulkiness. In this way, the conventional alternately twisted yarn becomes a yarn having overly twisted portions C' that have bulkiness relative to the supplied yarn and untwisted portions A' that do not have bulkiness relative to the supplied yarn. On the other hand, the bulky textured yarn of the present invention uses a yarn that has been bulked in advance by a false twist crimping method or the like as a raw yarn.
When this is passed through an unsteady false twisting process using a nozzle, for example, the supplied raw yarn has been made bulky in advance, so in the untwisted part A, each single yarn constituting the yarn is The parallelism is disturbed, and even when subjected to combustion, the bulkiness is maintained without being in a close-packed state, and even when heat-set in such a state, the bulkiness is similarly maintained. On the other hand, in the over-twisted part C, as mentioned above,
If the supplied yarn is a thermoplastic yarn, it will have bulkiness with respect to the supplied yarn, regardless of how bulky the supplied yarn is. Therefore, by appropriately selecting the degree of bulking of the supplied yarn and the degree of unsteady false twisting, the bulkiness of the untwisted portion A and the bulkiness of the over-untwisted portion C can be substantially adjusted. The same bulky textured yarn of the present invention is obtained. In addition, in the bulky textured yarn of the present invention, it is preferable that the initial elastic modulus of the untwisted part and the overly untwisted part are substantially equal. "Substantially equal initial elastic modulus" means that the difference in initial elastic modulus measured by the normal measurement method described below is 25% or less, preferably 15%, based on whichever is higher of the untwisted part or the over-untwisted part. % or less. When the bulky processed yarn of the present invention is obtained by subjecting a bulky processed thermoplastic synthetic fiber yarn that does not involve heat processing to unsteady false twisting that involves heat processing, The initial elastic modulus of the untwisted portion A is higher than that of the overtwisted portion C. On the other hand, if the supplied yarn is a thermoplastic synthetic fiber yarn that has been subjected to a bulking process that involves heat processing, it is thermally stabilized even before undergoing the unsteady false twisting process that involves heat processing. Therefore, yarns subjected to unsteady false twisting are processed yarns that have been heat-treated relatively uniformly in the longitudinal direction, and the initial elastic modulus of the untwisted and over-twisted areas is substantially reduced. can be made equal. In this way, when weaving and weaving bulky textured yarn in which the initial elastic modulus of the untwisted part and the overtwisted part are essentially the same, the appearance of sink marks or thin walls does not appear, and the overall In addition to the effect of rich volume and softness, it is possible to obtain a woven or knitted fabric that does not exhibit uneven drape properties such as easy bending in specific areas, and has a high-quality product feel with a strong twist. . The above initial elastic modulus was calculated using a sample length of 5 cm and a tensile rate of
Draw a load extension curve five times each at 100%/min, and calculate from the inclination angle of the rising part of the load extension curve.
It is calculated by converting the stress value at 00% elongation to per denier. The thermoplastic synthetic fiber yarn in the present invention is a synthetic fiber yarn obtained from polyester, polyamide, etc., and is a drawn yarn obtained by normal spinning → drawing, a semi-drawn yarn, or an undrawn yarn obtained by high-speed spinning. etc. are also included. It should be noted that a bundle of staple fibers may be used as long as it has enough convergence to allow the yarn to run continuously during the unsteady false twisting operation. As described above, the bulky textured yarn of the present invention is obtained by actively subjecting a thermoplastic synthetic fiber yarn to unsteady false twisting, forming real twists with different twist directions in the longitudinal direction of the yarn. The yarn has strong twisting effects such as a silky feel, drapability, weight, and elastic texture, and it also has a substantial effect on the bulkiness of the untwisted part and the bulkiness of the over-untwisted part. Since the threads are made to be the same in terms of texture, they are bulky in any part of the yarn in the longitudinal direction, and when the bulky yarn of the present invention is made into a woven or knitted fabric, it is bulky locally as seen in conventional alternately twisted yarns. A fabric can be obtained which does not exhibit appearance irregularities like defects with a lack of thickness and has an overall rich feel of volume and softness. Hereinafter, the present invention will be specifically explained with reference to Examples. Example 1 Polyester drawn yarn, 125d/60f (outer diameter 116μ), was subjected to bulk processing using the air jet method under the conditions shown in Table 1, and the resulting yarn was subjected to intermittent vortex flow using a compressed air nozzle. A bulky textured yarn of the present invention was obtained by passing through the twisting and false-twisting process and performing unsteady false-twisting under the conditions shown in Table 2.

【table】

[Table] The obtained bulky textured yarn has an untwisted part of about 0.8 m in length and an over-twisted part of about 1.5 m in length in the longitudinal direction of the yarn, and both exist alternately. The non-twisted sections in the conversion section were each 0.02 m or less and could be ignored. The actual twist remaining in the yarn under a load of 2 mg/d of the bulky processed yarn has a high density of 1350 T/M in the untwisted part and 1280 T/M in the over-twisted part, and has a high density of drapability, weight, and elasticity. It had strong twisting effects such as a soft texture. The actual number of twists remaining in the yarn is determined by testing the number of twists remaining in the yarn at 5 cm intervals over the entire length of each untwisted part and over-untwisted part at 5 points each under a load of 2 mg/d. The average maximum number of twists is converted into the number of twists per 1 m. In addition, when the outer diameter of the untwisted part and the over-untwisted part of the bulky textured yarn was measured under a load of 2 mg/d using a microscope, the outer diameter of the untwisted part was 201.2μ, and the outer diameter of the over-untwisted part was 201.2μ. It was 201.4μ, and the bulkiness of both was substantially the same. Note that the outer diameter ratio of the supplied yarn to the yarn of the present invention is 1.73 to 1.74, which indicates that the yarn is significantly bulkier. The outer diameter of both twisted parts was measured by collecting both twisted parts on a specimen for microscopic measurement under a load of 2 mg/d, and directly reading the maximum value of the outer diameter in a 1 mm section in the front and back at the center of each sample. Ivy. Furthermore, using the bulky processed yarn mentioned above, the warp density is 75 yarns/
When a fabric with a plain weave structure with a weft density of 68 threads/inch was produced, the resulting fabric exhibited a strongly twisted texture and appearance, as well as the bulkiness of the untwisted portions seen in conventional alternately twisted yarns. There were no sink-like defect-like appearance spots or thinning-like defect spots caused by lack of sex. Comparative Example 1 Same polyester drawn yarn as Example 1 125d/60
A highly twisted textured yarn was prepared using the same processing method as in Example 1, except that the bulking process in Example 1 was not performed. Regarding the processed yarn of this comparison, the actual number of twists remaining in the yarn was measured in the same manner as in Example 1.
High-density actual twist remained at 1440T/M in the untwisted part and 790T/M in the overtwisted part, but
As a result of measuring the outer diameter of the untwisted part and the over-twisted part in the same manner as in Example 1, the outer diameter of the over-twisted part was 207.2μ, while that of the untwisted part was significantly smaller at 150.8μ. A significant difference was observed in the bulkiness of the untwisted part and the overtwisted part. Therefore, when a fabric was made in the same manner as in Example 1 using the comparative processed yarn, the fabric exhibited sink mark-like defect-like appearance spots and thinning-like defect spots. Example 2 Polyester drawn yarn 150d/48f (initial elastic modulus
False twisting and crimp processing was performed using a normal spindle type false twisting machine (LS-6 model manufactured by Mitsubishi Heavy Industries, Ltd.) under the conditions shown in Table 3, using 100g/d) as the supplied yarn. Subsequently, the obtained textured yarn was fed to an intermittent vortex twisting/false twisting process using a compressed air nozzle, and unsteady false twisting was performed under the conditions shown in Table 4 to produce the special bulky textured yarn of the present invention. I got it.

【table】

[Table] The obtained processed yarn has untwisted parts in the longitudinal direction of the yarn.
After 0.8 m, the over-twisted part was approximately 1.5 m long, and both existed alternately, and the non-twisted part in both twisting direction conversion parts were all less than 0.02 m and negligible. . The actual twist remaining in the processed yarn under a load of 2 mg/d is 150T/M in the untwisted part and 150T/M in the overtwisted part.
It had a high density of 1030T/M and was like a strongly twisted yarn. In addition, when the outer diameter of the untwisted part and the over-twisted part of the processed yarn was measured under a load of 2 mg/d using a microscope, the outer diameter of the untwisted part was 221.6μ, and the outer diameter of the over-untwisted part was 221.6μ. The outer diameter was 214.3μ, and there was almost no difference in bulk between the two. When we measured the initial elastic modulus of the untwisted part and over-twisted part of the above processed yarn, we found that the initial elastic modulus of the untwisted part was
The initial elastic modulus of the over-untwisted part was 15.4 g/d, and the initial elastic modulus of the over-twisted part was 13.8 g/d, with almost no difference between the two, and both were significantly reduced compared to that of the drawn yarn before bulking processing. Ta. Furthermore, using the above-mentioned processed yarn, the warp density was 78//
When woven into a plain weave structure of 2.54 cm and a weft density of 71 yarns/2.54 cm, the resulting fabric exhibited a strongly twisted texture and appearance, and had no untwisted parts as seen in conventional alternately twisted yarns. There were no sink-like appearance spots due to lack of bulk, thinning-like defect spots, or asymmetric drape properties due to high initial elastic modulus. Comparative Example 2 Example 1 described in Japanese Patent Publication No. 51-225 was repeated. △n×10 ³ = obtained by stretching undrawn yarn spun at a spinning speed of 1700 m/min under conditions of a stretching speed of 800 m/min, a stretching roller temperature of 80°C, and a stretching ratio of 2.311.
113, ρ = 1.354 polyester synthetic fiber 50d/
Using 24f (outer diameter 74μ), semi-dull, circular cross-section thread,
False twisting was performed under the following conditions. (1) False twisting machine: ST-6 (manufactured by Mitsubishi Heavy Industries, Ltd.) (2) Spindle rotation speed: 30×10 ⁴ R/M (3) False twisting number: 4100T/M (Z, S) (4 ) False twisting temperature: 235℃ (5) Feed rate: +3% (6) Wind rate: +5%
It was a continuous untwisted yarn with a length of 7 mm and an over-untwisted part of 1 to 13 mm, with no untwisted part, and in which the filaments were strongly fused. The outer diameter of the untwisted part of this yarn is 79μ, and the outer diameter of the overtwisted part is 80μ, and the difference in outer diameter between the untwisted part and the overtwisted part is as small as 1.3%, but the bulkiness is the supply yarn
The bulkiness was only 1.07 to 1.08 times, and the bulkiness was poor. Comparative Example 3 The example described in JP-A-53-98448 was repeated. (A) Polyester filament drawn yarn 75d/24f
(outer diameter 89μ) was false-twisted under the following conditions. (1) False twisting machine: ST-6 (manufactured by Mitsubishi Heavy Industries, Ltd.) (2) Spindle rotation speed: 25×10 ⁴ R/M (3) False twisting number: 2200T/M (Z) (4) False twisting number: 2200T/M (Z) Twisting temperature: 225℃ (5) Feed rate: +20% (6) Wind rate: +4% The obtained false twisted yarn has the form shown in Figure 3, and the length of the untwisted part is is 1~
They are distributed in lengths of 35mm and have an outer diameter of 90μ, and the over-twisted portions are distributed in lengths of 1 to 45mm, with an outer diameter of 94μ and crimped portions. The apparent outer diameter of the thread is 122μ, and there is a difference of 27% in the apparent outer diameter between the untwisted part and the crimped part.Even if this processed yarn is made into a fabric, it will not have a uniform appearance, and moreover, Since there were many curled parts, the strong twist effect could not be obtained. (B) Using the same drawn yarn as in (A) above as the supply yarn and using LS-6 manufactured by Mitsubishi Heavy Industries, Ltd. as the false twister, the following (a) was carried out.
False twisting was performed under the conditions of and (b).

[Table] The morphology of the obtained false twisted yarn was as shown in the table below.

【table】

[Table] The lengths of the untwisted and overly twisted parts of the obtained false-twisted yarns are only a few millimeters to several centimeters, and therefore there are many twist transition points. At the same time, the difference in outer diameter from the supplied raw yarn was small, and the bulkiness was poor. Therefore, when the fabric is made into a fabric as the object of the present invention, it does not have a thin defect-like appearance and does not have a bulky textured textured yarn with a voluminous feel and a soft feel.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

FIG. 1 is a schematic side view of the bulky processed yarn of the present invention;
FIG. 2 is a schematic side view of a conventional highly twisted textured yarn, and FIG. 3 is a schematic side view of a false-twisted continuous untwisted yarn obtained by false-twisting at high temperatures. A...Untwisted portion of the bulky textured yarn of the present invention, C...Over-untwisted portion of the bulky textured yarn of the present invention, A'...Untwisted portion of the conventional highly twisted textured yarn, C'...Conventional An over-untwisted part of the highly twisted textured yarn, E...an untwisted part of a false-twisted continuous untwisted yarn, F...an over-untwisted part of a false-twisted continuous untwisted yarn.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1 A bulky thermoplastic synthetic fiber yarn with residual SZ alternating twist, in which the single yarns constituting the yarn are not fused, and the untwisted portion has a twist in the false twisting direction. is substantially the same as the bulkiness of the over-untwisted portion having twist in the false-twisting/untwisting direction, and
A highly twisted special bulky processed yarn characterized in that the lengths of both the untwisted part and the overly untwisted part are 50 cm or more.