JPH03213533A - Twisted tinsel and wholly tinseled silk woven fabric using the same - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To prepare the subject woven fabric having excellent flexibility and elasticity, free from the irregularity of dyeing and the shrinkage of the fabric and having an uniform surface luster by winding a flat foil fiber on a core fiber in a specific twisting degree in a direction reverse to the first twisting direction of the core fiber, the core fiber being subjected to the first twisting in a specific twisting degree. CONSTITUTION:A left twist tinsel or right twist tinsel as a weft is woven with a silk fiber as a warp to provide the objective woven fabric, the left tinsel and the right tinsel being alternately employed and being prepared by winding a flat foil fiber (e.g. a fiber prepared by disposing a gold or silver deposition layer on a polyethylene terephthalate film and subsequently slitting the film) on a core fiber (e.g. rayon fiber) in a direction reverse to that of the core fiber by a doubled twisting degree of the first twisting degree, the core fiber being first-twisted in a twisting degree of <500 turns/m.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION [Technical Field] The present invention relates to silk fabrics, and more particularly to twisted gold and silver threads and full-surface gold-through silk fabrics using the same.

[Prior art] Traditionally, full-face gold-through silk fabrics using twisted gold and silver threads, such as crepe, were made by warping the silk threads on a conventionally known general loom, and using one weft thread as the gold and silver threads twisted in a fixed direction. The entire surface was woven from use. Depending on the case, another thread was used to remove the threads and create a gap between the round-twisted gold thread and the round-twisted gold and silver thread. - Boat fishing is called ji-nuki and e-nuki. It is also woven by a method called stitching, but in this case as well, the gold and silver threads are always twisted in the same direction.

However, the luster of the gray fabric woven in this way is unidirectional (because the circularly twisted gold and silver threads are unidirectional) and the luster is glaring. During the scouring process, which is a characteristic of greige crepe, it curls like when it is baked, making it difficult to work with. When scouring is performed, the I'11 direction contracts, so it is necessary to apply a considerable amount of force to widen the thread, which damages the gold, silver and silk threads, causes shrinkage, and also induces uneven luster. It requires softening treatment because it is a woven fabric and has poor flexibility. Lacks elasticity. Curling also occurs when fabric is dyed, causing uneven dyeing and shrinkage.

There were also problems such as curling occurring even after sewing, requiring special ironing.

In order to solve these problems, the core yarn is twisted in one direction (first twist), then the core yarn is twisted in the opposite direction to the core yarn (first twist), and a flat foil yarn is wound around the core yarn. The twist of the first twist is 1.0 to 1.4 times the twist of the first twist, and it is made of core yarn or multifilament, and the twist of the first twist is 500 times/ A twisted gold and silver thread with a diameter of more than m was proposed (Japanese Patent Publication No. 1-56167).
m or more, the core yarn itself becomes rigid, and there is a problem in that it is inevitable that the twisted gold and silver thread obtained using this core yarn also becomes rigid. In addition, since the twist degree of the first twist of the core yarn is 500 times/m or more, it is impossible to make the twist of the flat foil yarn more than 1.4 times the twist degree of the first twist of the core yarn, and the force between the core yarn and the flat foil yarn is There was a problem in that it was not possible to design the relationship sufficiently.

[Object of the Invention] In view of the above-mentioned conventional problems, the present invention aims to improve the workability of (1) pre-treatment and scouring of greige fabrics in all-over metal-woven fabrics related to silk fabrics, especially crepe fabrics, etc. (2) prevents shrinkage of raw cloth during various processing; (3) has flexibility that does not require softening after scouring; (4) during dyeing. (5) prevents curling of the fabric after sewing (non-iron); (6) has a smooth feel; (7) prevents curling of round-twisted gold and silver threads. (8) To provide a twisted gold and silver thread with uniform surface gloss and excellent texture, and a full-surface gold-through structure using the same.

[Structure of the Invention] That is, the present invention replaces the conventionally used circularly twisted gold and silver threads by: 1) first twisting the core yarn in the Z direction or the S direction, and adding a flat foil yarn to the core yarn; (If the first twist of the core thread is in the Z direction, twist it in the S direction, and if the first twist of the core thread is in the S direction, twist it in the two directions). In the twisted gold and silver thread, the twist of the first twist or the second twist is more than twice the twist of the first twist, and the twist of the first twist of the core yarn is 500.
2) In a specific twisted gold and silver thread characterized by less than twist/m, and (2) in a full-surface gold-through silk fabric using twisted gold and silver thread, the core yarn is first twisted in the Z direction or the S direction, and the core Place the flat foil thread on the thread in the opposite direction to the direction of the first twist of the core thread (first twist of the core thread or Z
If the core yarn is first twisted in the S direction, it is twisted in the S direction, and if the first twist is in the S direction, it is first twisted in the Z direction), and the twist of the first twist is more than twice that of the first twist. It is characterized by weaving alternately and sequentially using two types of specific twisted gold and silver threads, left-twist gold and silver thread and right-twist gold and silver thread, as weft threads, and the twist of the first twist of the core thread is less than 500 times/m. This relates to a fully gilded silk fabric.

That is, in the twisted gold and silver thread of the present invention and the full-face gold-through silk fabric using the same, conventionally, the twisted gold-silver thread such as crepe and the full-face gold-through silk fabric using the same have been prepared, or the silk thread has been prepared using a conventionally known general loom. The entire surface of the fabric was woven using a single weft of gold and silver thread that had been warped and twisted in a circular direction. In some cases, another thread was used to remove the threads and create a gap between the round twisted gold thread and the round twisted gold and silver thread. - Boat fishing is called ji-nuki and e-nuki. In addition, it is woven by a method called stitching, but in this case, instead of the round-twisted gold and silver threads always being unified in the same direction, the weft or round-twisted gold and silver threads are left-twisted. By weaving two types of gold and silver thread alternately and right-twisted gold and silver thread in sequence, the luster of the gray fabric that conventional twisted gold and silver threads and all-over gold-through silk fabrics using them had is now unidirectional. (Because the gold and silver threads are twisted in one direction), the flow is glistening and the luster is directional, and during the scouring process, which is a characteristic of greige crepe, it curls like when grilling dried squid, making the work difficult. This causes shrinkage in the width direction, requiring considerable force to be applied to increase the width, which can damage the gold, silver and silk threads, causing shrinkage, causing uneven luster, and making the fabric less flexible. It requires softening treatment, lacks elasticity, curling occurs when dyeing the fabric, causes uneven dyeing, tends to shrink, curling occurs even after sewing, and requires special ironing. (1) Improved workability during pre-treatment and scouring of greige cloth, especially for silk fabrics such as crepe. (2) Prevents shrinkage of raw cloth during various processing, (3)
) Has flexibility that does not require softening processing after scouring processing, (
4) Prevent curling and uneven dyeing during dyeing process,
(5) Prevents the fabric from curling after making M (non-iron), (6) Has a smooth feel, (7) Prevents the pulling of round twisted gold and silver threads, (8) Improves the surface gloss of the product. We have completed twisted gold and silver thread with a uniform and excellent texture, and a fully gold-through silk fabric using it.

That is, in the present invention, using threads made of at least pure silk as warp threads, the specific left-handed gold and silver threads and the specific right-handed gold and silver threads are alternately and sequentially woven using two left and right threads, and if necessary, a punched thread or the like is inserted. By weaving with a distance between gold and silver threads, workability during pre-treatment and scouring of greige cloth can be improved for all-over gold-through woven fabrics related to silk fabrics, especially crepe, etc. It prevents the squid-like curling that makes it difficult, prevents shrinkage of raw cloth during various processing, has flexibility that does not require softening processing after scouring, and prevents curling and uneven dyeing during dyeing. , Twisted gold and silver thread that prevents the fabric from curling after sewing (non-ironing), has a smooth feel, prevents pulling of round twisted gold and silver thread, and has a uniform surface gloss and excellent texture. This made it possible to provide fully gold-through silk fabric.

Silk thread is used as the warp in the twisted gold and silver thread of the present invention and the full-surface gold-through silk fabric using the same, and for the left-twisted gold and silver thread, for example, a primer layer is provided on the above-mentioned polyethylene terephthalate film, and a vacuum evaporation method is applied on the undercoat layer. A wide film with an anti-oxidation coating layer formed on the surface of the silver vapor-deposited layer was cut into 15c layers, and this was further cut into 15c layers.
Micro-slit 20 pieces (0,253 mm width) to create a flat foil thread that is a film for scouring.
100 pieces of rayon thread with a thickness of 5d, 75d, 50d etc.
~500 times/m, preferably about 100 to 450 times/m, to create a core thread, and as the center of this core thread, the above flat foil thread is right-twisted about 900 to 1800 times/m, commonly known as Round twisted gold and silver threads for scouring can be used as right-twisted gold and silver threads, for example, by applying an undercoat layer to the aforementioned polyethylene terephthalate film, applying a silver vapor deposition layer thereon using a vacuum deposition method, and further applying an oxidation-preventing overcoat layer on the surface of the silver vapor deposition layer. The formed wide film is cut into pieces of about 15 cm, and further micro-slit into 120 cuts (0,253 mm width) to create flat foil threads for scouring.
A core yarn is created by right-twisting a rayon yarn having a thickness of 100 to 500 times/m, preferably 100 to 450 times/m.
A gold and silver thread for scouring is used, which is twisted left-handed about 0 times/m and is commonly known as a round twist.

Next, the present invention will be explained with reference to Examples.

[Example] Example 1 A known gold and silver thread film for scouring was prepared by forming an undercoat layer, a silver deposited layer, and a topcoat layer on one side of a polyethylene terephthalate film with a thickness of 12 μs, and it was cut into 120 pieces (0,2
A flat foil gold and silver thread was obtained by micro-slitting to a width of 52 mm.

The obtained flat foil gold and silver thread was first twisted with rayon thread (100 d) and left-twisted (450 times/rr), then this flat foil gold and silver thread was twisted to the right (1200 times/m), and then twisted to the right. It was obtained by cone-up a round twisted gold and silver thread.

On the other hand, the same flat foil gold and silver thread was first twisted with rayon thread (100 d) and right-twisted (450 times/m), and then this flat foil gold and silver thread was twisted left-handed (1200 times/m) to create a left-handed twist. Obtained by coning up twisted gold and silver thread.

The obtained twisted gold and silver threads of the present invention were highly flexible and had an attractive appearance in both right-handed and left-handed twists.

Example 2 This is an example in which the right round twisted gold and silver thread and the left round twisted gold and silver thread obtained in Example 1 were used to carry out full-through weaving on the entire front side.

Weaving A: A conventional weaving machine with two weaving machines; the right side is used for the warp, one uses right-handed circularly twisted gold and silver thread for the weft, and the other uses left-handed circularly twisted gold and silver thread. One roll of full-face gold-through was woven using two weaves to obtain cloth A (full-face gold-through silk fabric using the twisted gold and silver thread of the present invention).

Weaving B 1 Using a conventional short width weaving loom, weave one roll of gold and silver thread all over the surface using only the right round twisted gold and silver thread or only the left round twisted gold and silver thread for the weft, using the regular side for the warp and the weft. I got a B. This method is a conventional type.

Weaving C: Instead of the twisted gold and silver thread of the present invention, the same flat foil gold and silver thread was used, the rayon thread (100 d) was first twisted (800 times/m), and the left twist was performed, and the flat foil gold and silver thread was twisted to the right ( 100
0 times/m) was twisted, and the right circularly twisted gold and silver thread was coned up. On the other hand, use the same flat foil gold and silver thread as rayon thread (100
d) was right-twisted (800 times/m), then this flat foil gold and silver thread was twisted left-handed (1000 times/m), and the left-round twisted gold and silver thread was coned up. Fabric C was obtained in the same manner as Weaving A except that flat foil gold and silver threads in different directions were used.

Table 1 shows the results of a comparison of the performance of fabric A, fabric B, and fabric C, which are all-over gold-through silk fabrics using twisted gold and silver threads obtained in this manner.

2 Table 1 The results of the scouring process were actually tested and confirmed at the Funahashi Textile Industry Association's Kaya Processing Plant and Chuo Processing Plant in the Funahashi area.

[Effects of the Invention] As can be seen from the tests obtained in Examples 1 and 2, the twisted gold and silver thread of the present invention and the fully gold-through silk fabric (fabric A) using the same have the following effects: Not only during the silk scouring and dyeing process, but also in the finished state, it shows a much superior effect compared to conventional twisted gold and silver threads and full-face gold-through silk fabrics using them (cloths B and C). It can be said that the twisted gold and silver thread of the present M invention and the entirely gold-through silk fabric using the same are an epoch-making invention.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1 The core yarn is first twisted in the Z direction or the S direction, and the flat foil yarn is applied to the core yarn in the opposite direction to the first twist direction of the core yarn (the first twist of the core yarn is in the Z direction).
In the twisted gold and silver thread, the twist of the first twist is the twist of the first twist. 2. A twisted gold and silver thread, characterized in that the twist rate of the first twist of the core thread is less than 500 times/m. 2. In a fully gold-through silk fabric using twisted gold and silver threads, the core yarn is first twisted in the Z direction or the S direction, and the flat foil thread is applied to the core yarn in the opposite direction to the first twist direction of the core yarn (the core yarn If the first twist is in the Z direction, the first twist is in the S direction, and if the first twist in the core thread is in the S direction, the first twist is in the Z direction), and the twist of the first twist is the twist of the second twist. Two types of twisted gold and silver threads, left-twisted gold and silver threads and right-twisted gold and silver threads, which have a twist rate of more than twice that of the core yarn and the twist degree of the first twist of the core yarn is less than 500 times/m, are used as weft yarns and are alternately woven in sequence. A completely gold-through silk fabric that is characterized by: