JPH022991B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed description of the invention]

The present invention relates to a method for producing a suede-like fabric having durable water repellency and water resistance. Conventionally, raised fabrics are produced by raising fabrics using false twisted yarn for the warp and filament raw yarn for the weft. Ultrafine fibers are used for the weft, but it has been pointed out that the tension, waist, and drape of the raised fabric are insufficient, and the fluff density is low. In addition, water-repellent finishing for fabrics is generally done with fluorine,
It is well known that this is accomplished by applying a silicone-based water repellent emulsion or solvent solution, drying, and heat treatment. However, raised fabrics have a very large surface area and the fluff is randomly raised, so water-repellent fabrics treated with ordinary emulsion-based water repellents have good initial water-repellent performance, but water-repellent properties after washing. The decline is relatively large. Furthermore, in the method of applying a solvent-based water repellent, the initial water repellency is somewhat poor and the durability is insufficient. Furthermore, there are methods to improve water resistance, such as a combination of normal processing and calendar processing, and a combination of water repellent processing and coating processing. It has disadvantages such as loss of its soft touch, and also has insufficient water repellency and water resistance durability. The object of the present invention is to improve the drawbacks of such conventional methods and to produce a suede-like fabric that has good durability, water repellency, and water resistance. In order to achieve this object, the present invention has the following configuration. That is, in the present invention, the warp has a total denier of 50 to
150d, polyester synthetic fiber false twisted yarn with filament fineness of 1 to 5d, weft total denier 30
The first step of weaving a woven fabric consisting of polyester synthetic fiber yarns with a filament fineness of 1 d or less, with a filament fineness of ¹ d or less. The second step is to brush the fabric so that it is smooth, and the third step is to make the fabric water-repellent by using a fluorine-based water repellent or a silicon-based water repellent with a solid content concentration of 0.7% by weight or more alone or in combination. Production of durable water-repellent and water-resistant suede fabric characterized by a fourth step of heat pressing with a heat press roll so that the air permeability is 10 c.c./cm ² ·sec or less It's a method. The method of the present invention will be explained in detail below. The polyester synthetic fiber used in the method of the present invention is a thermoplastic fiber made of polyethylene terephthalate or its copolymer, and is necessary to make the heat press processing in the fourth step of the method of the present invention effective. . In the present invention, first, the warp used has a total denier.
It is a false twisted yarn made of polyester synthetic fiber with a filament fineness of 50 to 150 d and a filament fineness of 1 to 5 d. If the total denier is less than 50 d, the threads are too thin and the fabric will have poor weight and drape properties when woven into a fabric, resulting in a fabric that lacks tension and stiffness. Furthermore, since the threads are thin, there is little bending in the warp and weft, resulting in a flat woven fabric, which has poor napping properties and, if the napping treatment is carried out under harsh conditions, the damage to the threads constituting the woven fabric will be significant. On the other hand, if the total denier of the threads exceeds 150 d, the fabric after the napping treatment becomes too thick and a napping fabric with excellent drape properties cannot be obtained. Next, an important structural condition of the present invention is that false twisted yarn is used for the warp yarns. The use of stretchable bulky threads provides wrinkle resistance and shrinks in the warp direction due to the stretchability of the warp threads of the fabric, improving the nap density and promoting the formation of honey in the fabric structure. Regarding the filament fineness that makes up the yarn used in the warp, if it is less than 1d, the apparent Young's modulus of the yarn is low and the elasticity of the low-twisted yarn is poor, so it is important to improve drapability and fluff density. This results in an unsuitable fabric with no waist. On the other hand, if the filament fineness exceeds 5d, it has great elasticity and is advantageous for improving fluff density, but the ratio of the filament fineness of the warp and weft is more than 10 times, making it difficult to obtain a balance between tension and waist. Furthermore, the air permeability becomes high, making it impossible to achieve durable water resistance, which is one of the objectives of the present invention. For this reason, the warp conditions for producing a high quality brushed fabric with excellent drapability, tension, elasticity, durability, and water resistance include a total denier of 50 to 150 d, and a filament fineness of 1.
A necessary and sufficient condition is that the yarn be made of a false twisted yarn of ~5d. The weft used in the present invention has a total denier of 30 to 150 d.
However, if the total denier is less than 30d, the weft yarns will be too damaged during the raising process, making it difficult to obtain a fabric that can withstand practical use. Also
If it exceeds 150d, the fabric will have poor drapability due to the volume increase due to the width added during the napping process. In addition, ultrafine fibers with a filament fineness of 1d or less are used as the wefts. The soft texture and good feel of napped fabrics are greatly influenced by the fineness of the filaments that make up the napped fabrics, and when the filament fineness is 1d or more, it lacks the softness that is the lifeblood of napped fabrics.
Furthermore, if it exceeds 1 d, it becomes difficult to obtain a raised fabric with few gaps, which is a necessary condition for improving water pressure resistance. In the present invention, a fabric is woven using warp and weft yarns that satisfy each of the above-mentioned requirements. The woven fabric referred to in the present invention may be a plain weave, a twill weave, or a satin weave, and any one suitable for the purpose may be selected as appropriate. is suitable. The resulting fabric is then subjected to the usual relaxing, scouring, and dyeing processes, and in the second step, the surface of the fabric is treated with a cloth-type napping machine so that the air permeability is 30 c.c./cm ² ·sec or less. Raise the hair.
In this process, unless the air permeability is 30 c.c./cm ² sec or less, it is difficult to obtain good water pressure resistance even if the next 3rd and 4th steps are performed. By increasing the height, it becomes easier to seal the material by hot pressing in the fourth step. The raising treatment of textiles is
Either one side or both sides may be raised, but both sides are more suitable in order to obtain the full effect of the present invention. Next, in the method of the present invention, the solid content concentration is determined as the third step.
Water repellent treatment is performed by using 0.7% by weight of a fluorine-based water repellent or a silicone-based water repellent alone or in combination. Raised fabrics have a large surface area and the fluff is randomly raised, so if the solids concentration of the water repellent is less than 0.7% by weight, the film formation will be insufficient and good water repellency and water pressure resistance will not be obtained. In order to further enhance the present invention, the concentration should be 1.5% by weight or more, which is twice the concentration at which performance is normally obtained in fabrics. A fluorine-based water repellent is an emulsion made by dispersing in water an organic polymer that has a fluorocarbon chain in its side chain and a polyacrylic acid ester polymer in its main chain. It takes advantage of the water repellency due to its low height. Furthermore, the silicone water repellent to be added to the fluorine water repellent is an emulsion obtained by dispersing a silicone resin such as dimethylpolysiloxane in water. If necessary, an antistatic agent, a penetrant, etc. may be added to the water repellent emulsion used in the third step.
The water repellent is applied by impregnation, padding, coating, etc., followed by drying. Drying may be followed by heat treatment if necessary. The heat treatment may be carried out at a temperature and time appropriate for the water repellent used and the type of fabric to be treated. In the method of the present invention, in the fourth step, the fabric is introduced into a hot press roll and subjected to hot press processing to reduce the air permeability to 10 c.c./cm ² ·sec or less. This fourth step is to close the interstitial spaces in the fabric using a hot press roll, and the combination of the fiber structure in the first step, the napping process in the second process, and the water repellent finish in the third process creates a flexible, wind-resistant fabric. It has a good touch and also has a high degree of water repellency, water resistance and durability. The reason why the air permeability is set to 10 c.c./cm ² ·sec or less by hot press roll processing is because if the air permeability is 10 c.c./cm ² ·sec or more, the improvement in water pressure resistance is not sufficient. Here, the processing machines used for heat pressing include a calendar processing machine,
This may be carried out by appropriately using a normal heat press machine such as a transfer machine or an embossing machine. The heat treatment may be carried out at a temperature and time appropriate for the water repellent used and the type of fabric to be treated. The present invention has the above-mentioned structure, and with this structure, it is possible to obtain a suede-like fabric that has excellent drapability, good touch, and is durable, water repellent, and water resistant. Next, the method of the present invention will be further explained with reference to Examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto. Example 1 False twisted polyethylene terephthalate fiber yarn 75D/24F was used for the warp, and ultrafine polyethylene terephthalate fiber filament yarn 50D/24F was used for the weft.
A 5-ply satin fabric with double weft on both sides was woven using 200F. Next, the fabric was scoured by Relax, and dyed beige using a disperse dye in a circular jet dyeing machine at 130°C for 20 minutes, after reduction washing, drying, and heat fixing. Next, a hydraulic needle cloth raising machine is used to raise the cloth until the air permeability is 35c.c./
cm ²・sec, 32c.c./cm ²・sec, 28c.c./cm ²・sec, 20
I did it in 4 ways, each with cc/cm ²・sec.
The resulting raised fabrics were designated as A, B, C, and D, respectively. The raised fabrics applicable to the present invention are C and D,
Fabrics A and B are comparative examples. Next, the raised fabrics A, B, C, and D were impregnated with a treatment bath of the following formulation 1 (35% pick-up), and dried at 100℃.
Heat treatment was performed at 150°C for 1 minute. Prescription 1 Asahi Guard AG-710 (fluorine-based water repellent emulsion manufactured by Asahi Glass KK) 7 parts AG Accel 700 (antistatic agent manufactured by Meisei Kagaku KK)
1 part Isopropanol 3 parts Water 89 parts Continue calendering using a calendaring machine with a mirror roll (temperature 210℃, pressure 50Kg/cm ² ,
The speed was 10m/min). The air permeability of each of the fabrics A, B, C, and D was measured. We also measured the water pressure resistance of each. The performance results of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 1.

[Table] As is clear from Table 1, it can be seen how excellent the method of the present invention is in terms of water resistance.
In other words, the air permeability after brushing treatment is 30 c.c./cm ²・sec
If it is not below, the air permeability will be 10 even if heat press processing is performed.
cc/cm ² ·sec or less, and good water pressure resistance could not be obtained. Furthermore, the suede-like fabric obtained by the method of the present invention had a high nap density, a soft feel, and a good touch. Example 2 Polyester long fiber processed yarn (warp 75d/36f, weft
A 5-ply satin fabric was woven using 50d/250f twin yarns, and after relaxing scouring in the usual manner, disperse dye was used in a circular flow dyeing machine at 130°C for 20 minutes. The specimens were stained gray, reduced washed, and dried and heat-fixed. Subsequently, the cloth is raised using a hydraulic needle cloth raising machine, and the air permeability is 23 c.c./cm ² sec.
I brushed the hair to make it look like this. This was impregnated with a treatment bath of the following formulation 2 (45% pick-up),
Drying was performed at 120°C. Prescription 2 Asahi Guard AG-710 (fluorine-based water repellent emulsion manufactured by Asahi Glass KK) 4 parts TA-267 (antistatic agent manufactured by Kao Atlas KK)
1 part X-51-561 (Silicone water repellent made by Shin-Etsu Chemical) 3 parts Isopropanol 4 parts Water 88 parts Continuing heat press, transfer processing using animal pattern transfer paper (type that dyes on polyester) (temperature 215℃) , at a speed of 10 m/min),
Air permeability was set to 7.6cc/cm ² sec. The performance measurement results of the obtained fabric are shown in Table 2. As is clear from Table 2, it can be seen how excellent the method of the present invention is in terms of water repellency and water resistance durability. In addition, this processed fabric has excellent drapability, tension, elasticity, and a good touch.
It was made of high quality suede fabric.

【table】

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1 Weaving a fabric consisting of false twisted polyester synthetic fiber yarn whose warp is a total denier of 50 to 150 d and a filament fineness of 1 to 5 d, and whose weft is a polyester synthetic fiber yarn whose total denier is 30 to 150 d and a filament fineness of 1 d or less. Step 1: The surface of the fabric is brushed with a cloth-type napping machine so that the air permeability is 30 c.c./cm ² sec or less. Step 2: The fabric has a solid content concentration of 0.7% by weight or more. The third step is to perform a water repellent treatment using a fluorine-based water repellent or a silicon-based water repellent alone or in combination, and the fabric is made to have an air permeability of 10 c.c./cm ² .
A method for producing a suede-like fabric having water-repellent and water-resistant properties, comprising a fourth step of hot pressing with a hot press roll so that the water resistance is less than sec.