JPH02257989A - Method and device for sewing neck to drum body of clothe - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE: To form the whole top stitched seam of n upper collar while one group of continuous stitches is formed by providing the device with a workpiece holder by which a body and the upper collar are positioned at a first lower collar part by means of partial overlapping and the second lower collar part is received on it and which is provided with a holding device on the receiving part. CONSTITUTION: The body is held by a fixing device, the first lower collar part 30 is inserted to the first receiving board 28 and, then, the upper collar 35 consisting of two fabric layers which are previously sewed on and provided with a core between them is set at a desired position after insertion to touch the stopper 34. The second receiving board 41 is provided with a notched part 43 for receiving the stopper 34 and the notched part for forming the second receiving part 44, the upper collar and the body part are pressurized onto the receiving board 28 and the second lower collar 46 is inserted to the second receiving part 44 and aligned in the workpiece holder 20. The holder 20 is correctly positioned by a centering pin 24 and forms the continuous stitches by a driving device which is properly controlled with the sidewall 64 of a U shape bending piece 63. In case a double stitched seam is not required, it can be prevented.

Description

[Detailed Description of the Invention] [Field of Application on Part M] The present invention provides a method for maintaining the body edges of a garment between body side edge areas of two lower collar portions, and for maintaining these body edge areas in these edge areas. Sewing, sew together the edge areas of the lower collar parts that are farthest from the edge of the torso, and before this stitching, place and hold the edge areas of the upper collar between these far edge areas, and before fusing, The present invention relates to a method and a device for sewing a collar onto the body of a garment, in particular a shirt or blouse, in which the edges of both lower collar parts are provided in the shell in the region of the side edges of the body, followed by sewing only with closed seams.

[Conventional technology]

Such a method and apparatus have already been proposed by the applicant (Japanese Patent Application No. 63-221513). According to it, all parts to be sewn together, thus the body of the shirt or blouse etc., both lower collar parts and possibly an upper collar, are positioned and held together in a single closed seam. These parts can then be sewn together.

[The problem that the invention attempts to solve]

The problem on which the invention is based is to develop this method and device so that the fusing of the upper collar itself is also simplified further.

[Means for resolving espionage]

In order to solve this problem, the present invention uses a pre-fabricated upper collar, and forms the split seam of the upper collar in one working process by forming a closed seam.

Claim 2 presents an advantageous option for this course of a single continuous seam.

Claim 3 shows an apparatus for carrying out the method according to the invention, and claims 4 to 8 give details thereof.

〔Effect of the invention〕

According to the invention, the entire split seam and thus the sewn portion of the upper collar is specially cut while forming a single continuous seam for attaching the lower collar to the torso and the upper collar to the lower collar. The entire split seam and therefore visible seam of the upper collar can be formed without the need for tensioning or tightening.

Further advantages and features of the invention will become apparent from the following description of an embodiment according to the drawings.

〔Example〕

In the automatic sewing machine shown in FIG. 1, a sewing head 2 consisting of an arm-shaped base plate 3, a vertically extending vertical column 4, and an arm 5 extending horizontally almost parallel to the base plate 3 is attached to a base 1. is placed above. An electric drive h6 is attached to the arm, and drives the needle bar 7 having the needle 8 back and forth via an upper shaft (not shown) supported within the arm 5. Needle bar 7 with needle 8 is 2
Perform directional movements. A hook is provided in the substrate 3 as usual, and a 2° needle 8 driven in synchronization with the needle bar 7 via a drive element inside the fusing head s2 is inserted into the substrate 3 to form a seam. Since the needle 8 and the hook enter the hole formed through the needle, the needle 8 and the hook can form a seam and act together as a tool.

The sewing head 2 is arranged on a cross carriage 9, which is supported in a frame l so as to be movable in two mutually perpendicular directions, namely in the X direction and in the X direction. The Z direction extends in the X direction and at right angles to the X direction. Therefore, in the X direction,
The X direction and the two directions form a plane angle coordinate system.

The pedestal 1 is covered by a work plate 10 in the plane formed by the X direction and the X direction, and the dimensions of the notch 11 in the work plate 10 in the X direction and in the The size is such that the entire working range of the sewing head 2 can be opened in the X direction and in the X direction. The base plate 3 of the string a head 2 is located below the work plate 1O, and on the work plate 10, as seen from the operation side 12, in front of the notch 11 for the sewing head 2,
Two openings 13 for receiving suture holders, further described below.
There are 14. These openings 13,14 are rectangular and have a support edge 15 for the suture holder around their periphery.

In order to control the automatic sewing machine, a computer 16 having an input terminal 17 is provided. The calculation function is initiated manually via the input panel 18. Before the start of the melting process, a data medium, for example an EPROM, is inserted into the input device 17 and the information contained therein is read into the computer 16. The computer 16 controls the usual functions of the drive device of the cross-travel table 9, the drive motor 6 of the sewing head 2, and the sewing machine. The automatic sewing machine described so far is known from German Patent Application No. 3,546,238, which corresponds to US Patent Application No. 06/944,433. In particular, this automatic sewing machine, in the above-mentioned publication, has a support plate provided below the product holder and a support band provided between the support plate and the product holder.

Each suture holder 20, which can be removably inserted into an opening 13, 14, has a frame 21 adapted to the opening 13 or 14, whose legs 22 extending in the X direction have a centering hole 23. There is. Since the centering pins 24 provided on the support edge 15 of each opening 13 or 14 fit into these centering holes,
Accurate alignment of each melt holder n20 with respect to the working plate 10 is possible. The suture holder 20 is further secured to the working plate 10 by means of retainers, for example bolts, screws or permanent magnets. The rib J piece 22 of the frame 21 is located on the operation side 12.
They are connected to each other in the X direction by a connecting piece 25 on the side remote from . A plate 26 is attached to the lower side of the frame l. Operation (If, i12) Since the leg pieces 22 of the frame 21- are connected to each other by a cross beam 27 with a T-shaped cross section that is provided below the plate 26 and extends in the X direction, the operation side 12
The frame 21 does not protrude from &26.

A first receiving plate 28 is provided on the plate 26 and has a cutout serving as a first receiving part 29 . This first
The first lower collar portion 30 is inserted into the receiving portion 29 of. The course of the edge 31 of the first receiving portion 29 is the first lower collar portion 30
This first lower collar portion 30 is retained against lateral movement within the first receiving portion 29 due to its precise contour.

A notch 32 is formed in the plate 26 below the first lower collar portion 30, the edge 33 of which extends equidistantly from the edge 31. In this edge area, the first lower part 30 on the plate 26
is the first acceptance! It is within 29.

On the first receiving plate 28, a stopper 3 protruding upward is provided after the first receiving part 29 when viewed from the operating gill 12.
4 is provided and an upper beam 35 consisting of two fabric layers previously sewn with a core between them is inserted until it abuts against this stop 34, so that the upper beam 35 is pressed against the first lower part 30. come to the desired position. Such a stopper 34 is not in the range where the upper beam 35 and the first lower portion 30 are sewn together. In this range, the upper beam 35 is the first lower part 3
0 and is also located above the notch 32 in the plate 26.

In front of the first receiving part 29 as seen from the operating side 12 there is a fastening device 36 for a shirt body 37 . This fixing device 36 is formed by an adhesive strip 39, Velcro or the like, which is attached to a suitable cutout 38 in the first receiving plate 28 on the plate 26. This fixing device 36 is connected to the first receiving plate 28
is in the same plane as After inserting the upper beam 35, the shirt body 37 is fixed on the first receiving plate 28, so the edge 40 of the shirt body 37 sewn to the first lower part 30 is
It is also located above the first receiving portion 29, and is located in the notch 3 of the plate 26.
It protrudes beyond the edge 33 of 2.

A second receiving plate 41 is attached to the connecting piece 25 of the frame 21 at the hinge 4.
Shake by 2! It is pivoted to the 1llll manager.

This second receiving plate 41 has the same swing wJ between the upper position shown in FIG. 4 and the lower position shown in FIGS. 5 and 6. This second receiving plate 41 has a notch 43 for receiving the stopper 34 and a notch forming a second receiving portion 44.

The course of the edge 45 of this second receiving part 44 corresponds exactly to the contour of the second lower part 46 and, if spaced, lies exactly above the first receiving part 29 . Second receiving plate 4
The lower side 47 of 1 presses the upper beam 35 and the part of the shirt body 37 projecting therefrom onto the first receiving plate 28 . The second lower collar section 46) has been inserted into this second receptacle 44, so that all the sections to be sewn together are now provided in the suture holder 20 and attached to each other, as shown in FIG. It can be arranged.

A support frame 48 is further pivotally attached to the connecting piece 25 of the frame 21 by a hinge 49, and can swing between an upper position shown in FIG. 4 and a lower position shown in FIG. 6 at the same time. Hinge 42 and 49 are
It is constructed as is common in furniture doors with two arresting positions against a predetermined force of an integrated spring. The hinges 42 and 43 are therefore configured to hold the second receiving plate 41 and the support frame 48 in their respective upper positions against the force of gravity acting thereon. At the bottom position of each
The second receiving plate 41 and the support frame 48 do not apply a specific pressing force downward. The support frame 48 has a plate 50 with a cutout 51, the edge 52 of which is connected to the edge 3 of the first receiving part 29.
It is flush with the edges 45 of the first and second receiving portions 44 .

The support frame 48 is further formed with an island-shaped retaining plate 53, the edges 54 of which are equally spaced from the edges 31, 33, 45, 52, which are connected to the cutouts in the lower plate 26. Since a small distance a is also taken from the edge 33 of 32, there is a range that is not covered by a part of the sewing material holder 20, and in this range, the first lower part 30 and the upper beam 35 and the second lower part 46 and also both lower parts 30
．． 46 and shirt body 37 may be joined to form a continuous closed seam 55. By the holding plate 53,
The upper second lower part 46 is pressed against the upper beam 35 and the edge 40 of the shirt body 37 and further into the lower first lower part 30. As shown in FIG. 6, if a supporting sliding plate 56 is provided which abuts against the underside of the plate 26, the sewn part is clamped between this supporting sliding plate 56 and the holding plate 53. The construction of such a supporting slide plate 56 is known from the aforementioned German Patent Application No. 3,546,238. The construction of this support slide plate 56 is not part of the present invention. FIG. 6 shows the needle through hole addition piece 57 of the board 3,
Through this additional piece, the needle 8 enters the base plate 3.

The holding plate 53 is held on the support frame 48 by a supporting curved piece 58 configured like a crankshaft. The shaft neck 59 of this support curved piece 58 is rotatably supported within a double bearing 60 attached to the upper side of the support frame 48. The shaft neck 61 at the other end of the supporting curved piece 58 is attached to the retaining plate 53
It is swingably supported by a beam 62 which is attached above and serves to reinforce it. A U-shaped curved piece 63 is formed between the two shaft necks 59,61, and between its side walls 64, the edge 54 of the retaining plate 53 and the edge 52 of the notch 51 and thus all other edges 3L 33 are formed. There are also .45. A connecting piece 65 connecting both side walls 64 extends parallel to the swing axis 66 of the U-shaped curved piece 63 passing through the shaft neck 59.61, and the distance between the inside of the connecting piece 65 and the swing axis 66 is The diameter is approximately 5-10 mm. The supporting curved piece 58 extends 180' around its pivot axis 66.
, L/both side walls 64 are each swingable between two positions approximately in the x-y plane. These two positions, shown by the solid line on the left and the dashed line on the right in Figure 2, have a length of 2
The area b is divided, and the starting and ending ends of the seam 55 can be overlapped in this area to prevent fraying.

In order to be able to swing the supporting curved piece 58, a swinging and moving device 67 having a piston-cylinder drive device 68 receiving air pressure is provided on the support frame 48, and a rack 70 is attached to the piston rod 69 of the swinging and moving device 67. It has been taken. A pinion 71 that meshes with this rack 70 is mounted on the shaft neck 59 of the supporting curved piece 58 within a double bearing 60 so as not to rotate relative to it. The stroke of the piston-cylinder drive 68 and the diameter of the pinion 71 are designed such that the supporting curved piece 58 performs a rocking speed of exactly 180°.

In FIG. 7 a shirt body 37 is shown in which the prefabricated upper collar 35 (FIG. 8) is attached to the shirt body 37 by means of identical first and second lower collar portions 30.46 shown in FIG. It is joined to the edge 40. In this case, the edge area 72 of the upper collar 35 is wrapped around the respective edge area 73 of the two lower collar parts 30.46, and the edge area 74 of the lower collar part 30.46 opposite to the edge area 73 is wrapped around the shirt body. 37 to the edge 40.

To prevent the upper second lower collar portion 46 from slipping against the retaining plate 53, an adhesive coating 7 is provided on the underside of this retaining plate 53.
5 will be provided. This adhesive coating 75 can be made of sponge, for example. Furthermore, a needle 76 is provided on the underside of the retaining plate 53 to pierce both lower collar parts 30.46 and thus to prevent movement of the lower parts relative to each other and to the sewn parts to be tightened, namely the upper collar 35 and the shirt body 37. Prevented.

It should be noted that in Fig. 2, the lower plate 26
The edge 33 of the notch 32 in the is shown in dashed lines, and the seam 55 to be formed is shown in dashed lines. In FIG. 5, the seam parts 30, 35, 37 and 46 to be sewn together are shown in section, and the seams to be formed are also shown.

After inserting all the crest parts into the suture holder 20,
The melting process begins between the side walls 64 of the U-shaped curved piece 63 at the position shown in solid lines in FIG.

In this configuration, seam formation is performed in a counterclockwise direction according to direction arrow 77. A suitably controlled drive of the cross carriage 9 moves the needle 8 of the sewing head 2 into the U-shaped curved piece 63.
After exiting the range, the U-shaped curved piece 63 is swung to the position shown by the chain line in FIG. As already mentioned, this provides a maximum overlap area with a total length of 2b at both ends of the seam opening.

If two sewing material holders 20 can be provided respectively in the two openings 13 and 14 of the working plate 10, as shown in FIG. The shirt body 37 can be removed from one seam holder 20, the individual seam parts can be inserted anew, and the fusing process can then be carried out in the other seam holder. Of course, instead of the shirt body 37, the blouse or a comparable garment can be provided with a collar consisting of an upper collar and two lower collar parts.

A cross carriage 9 with a fusion shaft 2 is controlled by an ft calculator I6 to form the seam 55.

When sewing only eight collars or a so-called stand-up collar to the shirt body 37, the upper collar 35 is not inserted. The melting process is the same.

Particularly when two sewing material holders 20 are used in an automatic sewing machine as shown in FIG. Because of the operation, the insertion time of the individual seam parts is also significantly reduced.

1O and 1O, and the embodiment of the sewn material holder 20' according to FIG. The difference is that an upper collar 35' is inserted, in which only an internal seam is formed. The outer collar seam shown in FIG. 8, ie, the outer visible seam 55a, has not yet been formed. In other words, only both collar cuts are sewn together and then turned inside out.

The formation of this split seam or top stitched seam is included in the fusing cycle already mentioned. The suture retainer 20' is a small portion of the suture retainer 20'.
10 and 11, the same reference numerals are used for the same parts. Where individual parts differ only structurally and are functionally the same, the same reference numerals with a dash are used.

The notch forming the first receiving portion 29' is sized and shaped to receive not only the first lower beam portion 30 but also the partially prefabricated upper collar 35'. has been done. As can be seen from FIG.
Since it is in contact with the edge 3 of the receiving portion 29', it cannot be moved in any direction, and moreover, it cannot be moved in the direction of the upper collar 35'. The upper collar 35' rests on its three outer edges, thus to the extent that it does not adjoin the first lower beam part 30, against the edge 31a of the first receiving part 29'. As can be seen from FIG. 10, the upper collar 35' cannot slide towards the first lower beam section 30.

Notches 32' in plate 26 generally form edges 31' and 31'.
It extends in line with a. Other examples will be discussed further below.

The notches in the second receiving plate 41' forming the second receiving part 44' have 45' and 45a which correspond generally to &31' and 31a of the first receiving part 29'. In order to prevent the upper collar 35' from sliding upwards in the second receiving part 44', an elastic retaining clamp 79 is mounted above the second receiving plate 41' in the area of the collar tip 78. This ah of the collar 35' is retained. Similar retaining clamps 80 are provided on first receiving plate 28' to retain respective outer edges of shirt body 37.

For attaching the shirt body 37, in the embodiment shown in FIGS. 10 and 11, a fixing device 36' is provided which has a suction box 81 connected to a negative pressure source (not shown) via a negative pressure connection piece 82. ing. Since the first receiving plate 28' is formed with a suction opening 83, the shirt body 37 directly above it
is held in this position by negative pressure.

The plate 50' of the support frame 48 has an upper collar 35' and a lower beam portion 30.
．． The entire range covered by 46 is open.

The first receptacle f1529' and the second receptacle 44' have an approximately three-quarter circular cutout 84 in the area of the collar tip 78, which serves as a confession cutout for the collar tip 78 with large tolerances in its outer shape. Therefore, the upper collar 35 to the sewing material holder 20'
′ can be inserted without any gaps.

In order to sew together the upper collar 35' and the two lower beam parts 30.46 in one operation, these three gore parts and the shirt body 37 are sewn together in the seam holder 20' in the same way as described above.
inserted into. The time course of seam formation can be seen from FIG. The U-shaped curved piece 63 has been swung to the position shown in FIG. The starting point of melting is between point A and therefore the pivot axis 66 and the inside of the connecting piece 65. A continuous seam 55' is formed according to the fusing direction arrow 85. From the starting point A, the seam 55' is first formed as far as the corner point B, with partial areas of the two lower beam parts 30.46 being joined to the edge 40 of the shirt body 37. From corner point B, the seam 55' is led to corner point C, at which point the upper collar 35' is sewn. Mateme 5
5', the sewing of the upper beam 35' on opposite sides is continued until the corner point corresponding to the point. The quiet seam sections B-C are therefore formed only between the lower parts 30, 46, and the seam section CD is used to connect the upper beam 35' with both lower parts 30.46.

From the corner point, construction is carried out via corner points E and F on both collar tips 78 to corner point C.

tai cKIsfl D-E, E ~F and U F
-C! : Above-mentioned split seam 55 on upper a35'
a is formed.

Subsequently, the seam section CD is formed again. A double seam is therefore formed in this seam section. From there a short seam section is formed up to a corner point G symmetrically opposite corner point B. From there, the remaining seam section is formed beyond the starting point A to point H, where the fusing collar 2 terminates the seam 55' by means of a thread cutting device. Point H is located symmetrically with respect to starting point A with respect to the swing axis 66. At the latest at the beginning of forming the remaining seam section GH, the U-shaped curved piece 63 is swung by 180 degrees by operating the swiveling drive device 67.

As described above, double stitching is performed in the stitch section C-D. If this double stitch is not colored, the sewing head 2 performs a system cut at the corner point C, is moved from the corner point C to the corner point without fusing, and then stitches 55
' must be completed from the corner point to point H via corner point G.

For melting, a supporting sliding plate, not shown in FIG. 11, can be provided, as explained for factor 6. Alternatively or additionally, a thin lower plate 86 with a cutout 87 can be provided below the plate 26. This notch 87
As can be seen from FIG. 13, the edge 88 of the
Extending equidistantly to the edges 31' and 31a, the upper beam 35' and the first lower part 30 can rest on this narrow edge 88 without interfering with the melting process.

This lower plate 86 can be constructed from a sufficiently strong plastic or metal plate. The bottom plate of the fake side is very thin, about 0.5 mm thick. The holding clamps 79 and 80 also act outside the seam 55a to be formed, as can be seen in Figure 1θ.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

1 is a perspective view of an automatic sewing machine having two openings each receiving a sewing material holder; FIG. 2 is a plan view of a sewing material holder for the automatic sewing machine according to FIG. 1; and FIG. A front view of a part of the material holder seen from the operation side, FIG. 4 is a vertical sectional view of the sewn material holder with the second receiving plate and support frame pivoted upward, and FIG. FIG. 6 is a vertical cross-sectional view of the suture holder with the second receiving plate and support frame swung upwards with only the negative portion shown; FIG. sectional view, Figure 7 is a front view of the shirt body, Figure 8 is a front view of the upper beam, Figure 9 is a front view of the lower part,
Figure 1O is a plan view of another embodiment of the suture retainer;
The figure is a vertical sectional view of No. 12. The figure is a plan view of the upper beam, several lower parts, and a part of the body that are sewn together with only one seam. Figure 13 is an enlarged cross-section of a part of the suture holder along the line Xllll-X1ll of Figure 11. It is a diagram. 30, 46...lower part, 35'...upper beam, 37
...B integral, 40... edge, 72.73.74...
Edge range, 55'... seam, 55a... folded seam. Patent Applicant Kotzhos Adler' Akchengesellschaft Proceedings Amendment (Method) % Formula % Case Description Heisei Marriage 1st Year Patent Application No. 270526 2 Title of Invention Method and device for sewing a collar onto the body of a garment 19 3゜Relationship with the case of the person making the amendment

Claims (1)

[Claims] The edge (40) of the torso (37) of one garment is connected to the two lower collar portions (
The lower collar portion (30, 46) of the body (37) is provided between and sewn between the lateral edge areas (74) of the body (30, 46) and is sewn to these edge areas. ) are sewn together, and before this sewing the edge area (72) of the upper collar (35') is placed and held between these far side edge areas (73), and before sewing the body The edge (40) of (37) is provided between the body side edge areas (74) of both lower collar parts (30, 46), followed by a closed seam (55')
In the method of sewing with a chisel, only a portion of the upper collar (35') is made in advance, and by forming a seam (55') that closes the split seam (55a) of the upper collar (35'). 2, characterized by being formed in one work process;
A method of sewing a collar formed by two lower collar parts (30, 46) and an upper collar (35') to the body of a garment. 2 Starting from the starting point (A) between the lower collar part (30, 46) and the body (37), the seam section (A-B) is created between the lower collar part (30, 46) and the body (37). ), then along the seam section (B-C) of the lower collar part (30, 46), and from there along the lower collar part (30, 46) and the upper collar (35'
), and then three seam sections (D-E, E-F, F-C) corresponding to the split seam (55a) of the upper collar (35'). From there, it passes through the seam section (C to D) between the lower collar part (30, 46) and the upper collar (35') again, and from there, the lower collar part (
30, 46), and then along the seam section (G to H) between the lower collar part (30, 46) and the body (37) to the starting point (A). up to the range of
2. A method according to claim 1, characterized in that a continuous seam (55') is formed. 3 having a suture head (2) and at least one suture holder (20) for receiving a suture portion, the suture head for forming a seam (55) joining the suture portions; Part (2)
and a sewn material holder (20) are movable relative to each other in one plane, and the sewn material holder (20) is in contact with the first lower collar portion (3).
0), the body (37) and the upper collar (35') of the garment are inserted into the first lower collar part (30).
a second receiving part (44) for a second lower collar part (46) which is provided above the device and is lowerable onto the device; in which the first receiving part (29') also receives the upper collar (35'), so that this The second receiving part (44') is matched with the upper collar (
35').
Apparatus for carrying out the method described in . 4 The first receiving portion (29') extends inwardly to support the upper collar (35') and the lower collar portion (30).
4. Device according to claim 3, characterized in that it is delimited by ). 5 The second receiving part (44') is connected to the suture holder (20')
) is formed in a second receiving plate (41') that is swingably provided in 4. The apparatus of claim 3. 6. The holding device according to claim 3, characterized in that the holding device is formed as an island-like holding plate (53) on a support frame (48) that is swingably provided on the sewing product holder (20). Device. 7 The holding plate (53) and the support frame (48) are connected to each other by a swingable supporting curved piece (58), and this supporting curved piece connects the edge (54) of the holding plate (53) and the supporting frame (48). 7. Device according to claim 6, characterized in that it has a U-shaped curved piece (63) covering the area between adjacent edges (52) of the device. 8. Device according to claim 7, characterized in that on the support frame (48) a rocking drive for the support curved piece (58) is provided.