JPH0224939B2 - - Google Patents

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Publication number
JPH0224939B2
JPH0224939B2 JP59111026A JP11102684A JPH0224939B2 JP H0224939 B2 JPH0224939 B2 JP H0224939B2 JP 59111026 A JP59111026 A JP 59111026A JP 11102684 A JP11102684 A JP 11102684A JP H0224939 B2 JPH0224939 B2 JP H0224939B2
Authority
JP
Japan
Prior art keywords
yarn
yarns
strong
twist
knitted fabric
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired - Lifetime
Application number
JP59111026A
Other languages
Japanese (ja)
Other versions
JPS60259650A (en
Inventor
Shinzo Nishizumi
Itsuo Tabayashi
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Toray Industries Inc
Original Assignee
Toray Industries Inc
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Toray Industries Inc filed Critical Toray Industries Inc
Priority to JP59111026A priority Critical patent/JPS60259650A/en
Publication of JPS60259650A publication Critical patent/JPS60259650A/en
Publication of JPH0224939B2 publication Critical patent/JPH0224939B2/ja
Granted legal-status Critical Current

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  • Artificial Filaments (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)

Description

【発明の詳細な説明】[Detailed description of the invention]

〔本発明の技術分野〕 本発明はポリエステルフイラメント糸条から成
る強ネン糸編織物用糸条に関するものであり、詳
しくは甘ヨリ追ネンを施した糸条を複数本合せて
強ネンを行ない、この糸条を用いた編織物の製造
方法に関する。 〔従来技術とその問題点〕 ポリエステルフイラメント糸条から成る強ネン
糸を含む編織物の製造方法は種々提案されている
が、天然繊維の絹に疋敵するような優雅で均斉の
とれたシボ質を得ることができないのが現状であ
る。強ネン用原糸として特公昭51−23619号公報、
特公昭56−8140号公報に示されているように、紡
糸−延伸後に高温での熱処理、或いは、延伸時に
高温での熱処理を行なうことにより、糸条の密度
を従来糸条よりも高くする強ネン用原糸が提案さ
れている。しかし、これらの提案糸条も効果はあ
るものの従来のシボ質を大巾に向上させることは
困難である。 一方、高級加工における従来技術としては特公
昭57−8223号公報がある。しかしこれらの公知技
術においても強ネン用原糸として提案されている
糸条同様にシボ質の大幅な向上は困難である。 〔本発明の目的〕 本発明はかかる従来技術の欠点を改良するもの
であり、甘ヨリ追ネン糸条を複数本合せて強ネン
を付与することにより、単繊維のマイグレーシヨ
ンが起らないようにすることにより、強ネン糸の
トルクを大きくするとともに均斉な解ネンを起
し、シボ質、シボ立ち性を改善し、風合いも絹に
疋敵したものとすることにある。 〔本発明の構成〕 本発明は次の構成からなる。 「ポリエステルフイラメント糸条に50t/m〜
300t/mの甘ヨリ追ネンを施し、該糸条を複数本
合せて更にヨリ係数K=20000以上の強ネンを施
し、次いでヨリ止めを行ない、しかる後に編織物
を形成し、シボ立ち処理を行なうことを特徴とす
る強ネン糸を含む編織物の製造方法。」 本発明を構成するポリエステルは、エチレンテ
レフタレート単位を80モル%以上含むものであ
る。この場合に使用できる共重合成分としては、
例えばアジピン酸、セバシン酸、イソフタル酸、
5−ナトリウムスルホイソフタル酸、ジフエニル
ジカルボン酸、ナフタレンジカルボン酸などの二
塩基酸類、オキシ安息香酸の如きオキシ酸類、お
よびジエチレングリコール、プロピレングリコー
ル、ネオペンチルグリコール、ペンタエリスリト
ール、ポリエチレングリコールなどのグリコール
類のうちから1種または2種以上のものを使用す
ることが可能である。甘ヨリ追ネンに供給する糸
条は通常の紡糸−延伸で得られる糸条、および超
高速紡糸で得られる糸密度ρが1.365g/cm3以上、
複屈折Δnが0.140以下の糸条が使用でき、更には
これら糸条の仮ヨリ糸でもよい。 〔本発明の作用効果〕 本発明の作用効果を表を用いて説明する。第1
表は甘ヨリ追ネン糸条の合せ本数とシボ発生状態
の関係を示したものである。すなわち、第1表に
示す条件によつて得られた3種のポリエステルフ
イラメント糸条をそれぞれヨコ糸とし、タテ糸は
三角断面を有する構成フイラメントからなるポリ
エステルフイラメント糸条50D−36fに350t/m
の甘ヨリを付与した糸条を用いてタテ密度165
本/吋のビームを作成し、ちりめんを作りシボ立
て処理したものである。
[Technical Field of the Invention] The present invention relates to a strong fiber yarn made of polyester filament yarn for use in knitting and fabrics, and more specifically, a plurality of yarns that have been subjected to sweet twisting are combined to form a strong fiber. The present invention relates to a method for producing knitted fabrics using this yarn. [Prior art and its problems] Various methods have been proposed for producing knitted fabrics containing strong cotton yarns made of polyester filament yarns, but none of them have achieved an elegant and uniform grain texture that rivals the natural fiber silk. The current situation is that it is not possible to obtain Special Publication No. 51-23619 as yarn for strong cotton,
As shown in Japanese Patent Publication No. 56-8140, by performing heat treatment at a high temperature after spinning and drawing, or by heat treatment at a high temperature during drawing, it is possible to increase the density of yarns higher than that of conventional yarns. Raw yarn for cotton wool has been proposed. However, although these proposed yarns are effective, it is difficult to significantly improve the conventional grain quality. On the other hand, as a conventional technique for high-grade processing, there is Japanese Patent Publication No. 57-8223. However, even with these known techniques, it is difficult to significantly improve the grain texture as in the case of yarns proposed as yarns for strong cotton fabric. [Object of the present invention] The present invention is intended to improve the drawbacks of the prior art, and to prevent migration of single fibers by combining a plurality of sweet twisted yarns and imparting strong yarn. By doing so, the purpose is to increase the torque of the strong flen yarn, cause uniform unraveling, improve the grain quality and graininess, and make the texture comparable to silk. [Structure of the present invention] The present invention consists of the following structure. “50t/m for polyester filament yarn
300t/m of sweet twist addition is applied, several of the yarns are put together, and a strong addition with a twist coefficient of K = 20000 or more is applied, then twist prevention is performed, after which a knitted fabric is formed and grain treatment is applied. A method for producing a knitted fabric containing strong cotton yarn. The polyester constituting the present invention contains 80 mol% or more of ethylene terephthalate units. Copolymerization components that can be used in this case include:
For example, adipic acid, sebacic acid, isophthalic acid,
Among dibasic acids such as 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, diphenyldicarboxylic acid, and naphthalene dicarboxylic acid, oxyacids such as oxybenzoic acid, and glycols such as diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, pentaerythritol, and polyethylene glycol. It is possible to use one or more of the following. The yarn to be supplied to Amagorioi-Nen is one obtained by normal spinning and drawing, and one obtained by ultra-high-speed spinning with a yarn density ρ of 1.365 g/cm 3 or more.
Yarns having a birefringence Δn of 0.140 or less can be used, and temporary twists of these yarns may also be used. [Operations and Effects of the Present Invention] The functions and effects of the present invention will be explained using a table. 1st
The table shows the relationship between the total number of sweet yarns and the state of grain formation. That is, three types of polyester filament yarns obtained under the conditions shown in Table 1 were used as weft yarns, and the warp yarns were polyester filament yarns 50D-36f consisting of filaments with a triangular cross section at 350 t/m.
The vertical density is 165 using yarn with a sweet twist.
A 1/2-inch beam was created, crepe was made, and the texture was applied.

【表】 第1表から明らかなように、甘ヨリ追ネンを施
した糸条を合せて強ネンを付与したちりめんは、
シボよせ収縮率に差はみられないがシボ質、織物
面上のツノ、ビリに大きな差が見られ品位が良好
となる。これは強ネン付与時に単繊維および糸条
のマイグレーシヨンが起らないために強ネンの解
ネンが均斉に起るために優雅なシボ質のちりめん
が得られる。すなわち、単一糸条はそれぞれ甘ヨ
リが施されているため集束性が向上し、したがつ
てこれら集束性が向上した甘ヨリ糸条を複数本合
せて強ネンを施しても、それら甘ヨリによる集束
性のため単一糸条を構成する単繊維が他の単一糸
条を構成する単繊維と交錯せず、したがつて、単
一糸条同士のマイグレーシヨンが起らず、また甘
ヨリであるため、単一糸条を構成する単繊維同士
のマイグレーシヨンも起らないため、強ネンのト
ルクを大きくするとともに均斉な解ネンを起すこ
とができるものである。一方単一糸条に強ネンを
付与した糸条は単繊維のマイグレーシヨンのムラ
が起り、このムラが解ネンの不均斉を起し品位の
悪いものしか得られない。
[Table] As is clear from Table 1, the crepe that has been given a strong texture by combining the yarns that have been treated with sweet texture is
Although there is no difference in the wrinkle shrinkage rate, there is a large difference in the grain quality, horns and creases on the fabric surface, and the quality is good. This is because migration of single fibers and threads does not occur during the application of strong nen, and the dissolution of the strong nen occurs uniformly, resulting in an elegant grained crepe. In other words, since each single yarn has been given a sweet twist, its cohesiveness has been improved. Therefore, even if multiple loosely twisted yarns with improved cohesiveness are combined together and a strong layer is applied, it will not be possible to improve the cohesiveness due to the sweet twist. Due to the bundling property, the single fibers constituting a single yarn do not intersect with the single fibers constituting other single yarns, so migration between single yarns does not occur, and it is easy to twist. Since no migration occurs between the single fibers constituting a single yarn, it is possible to increase the torque of the strong yarn and to cause uniform disintegration. On the other hand, in the case of yarns in which strong fibers are added to a single yarn, uneven migration of the single fibers occurs, and this unevenness causes asymmetry in the decomposition of fibers, resulting in only poor quality yarns.

【表】【table】

〔熱処理ビリ度〕[Heat treatment crackness]

シボ立ち性を見る一つの方法であり、測定方法
は次のとおりである。80cmの強ネン糸条の中央に
0.01g/dの荷重を吊し、両端を中央にまとめて
荷重を回しヨリを入れ、この試料を97℃の熱水中
で5分間処理し、そのヨリ数を測定し(測定ヨリ
数)次式で求める。 熱処理ビリ度=測定ヨリ数×2.5×√2 Dはデニール 実施例 1 タテ糸にポリエチレンテレフタレートフイラメ
ントの50D−36fの変形断面糸条(三角断面)に
300t/mの追ネンを施し、該糸条をノリ付け後タ
テ密度175本/吋のビームを作成し、次いでヨコ
糸として、ポリエチレンテレフタレートフイラメ
ント糸30D−18f、50D−24f、75D−36f、150D−
72fに第3表に示すような甘ヨリ追ネンを施した
糸条を複数本合せて強ネンを施し、真空セツター
85℃×60分間ヨリの一時固定を行なつた。この強
ネン糸条をヨコ密度68本/吋でちりめんの製織を
行ない、その後ロータリーワツシヤーでシボ立て
処理を行なつた。 表から明らかなように、本発明の実験No.2〜
6、8以外(No.1、No.7、No.9)はシボよせ収縮
に大きな差はないものの、シボ質、織物面のツ
ノ、風合いに問題が発生した。
This is one method of measuring graininess, and the measurement method is as follows. In the center of 80cm of strong cotton thread
A load of 0.01 g/d was suspended, both ends were brought together in the center, the load was turned and a twist was added, and the sample was treated in hot water at 97℃ for 5 minutes, and the number of twists was measured (measured number of twists). Find it using the formula. Heat treatment strength = Measured number of twists x 2.5 x √2 D is denier Example 1 The warp yarn was made of polyethylene terephthalate filament with a deformed cross section of 50D-36f (triangular cross section).
After adding 300t/m and gluing the threads, a beam with a vertical density of 175 threads/inch was created, and then polyethylene terephthalate filament threads 30D-18f, 50D-24f, 75D-36f, 150D were used as weft threads. −
72f is combined with multiple threads that have been given a sweet twist as shown in Table 3, and then given a strong finish, and then placed in a vacuum setter.
Temporary fixation was performed at 85°C for 60 minutes. Crepe weaving was performed using this strong cotton yarn at a weft density of 68 threads/inch, and then graining was performed using a rotary washer. As is clear from the table, experiment No. 2 of the present invention ~
For samples other than No. 6 and 8 (No. 1, No. 7, and No. 9), although there was no significant difference in grain shrinkage, problems occurred with the grain texture, the edges of the fabric surface, and the texture.

【表】【table】

【表】 第3表から明らかなとおり、実験No.2〜6、お
よび8は本発明方法の範囲であつたので、シボよ
せ収縮率、シボ質、ツノの発生、風合いはいずれ
も好ましいものが得られた。 これに対し、実験No.1は甘ヨリ追ネン数が低い
ため、実験No.7は従来例の如く単糸使いであつた
ため、実験No.9は強ネン係数が低かつたため、い
ずれも満足な結果は得られなかつた。 実施例 2 タテ糸にポリエステル系フイラメントの75D−
36fの変形断面糸条に200t/mの追ネンを施し、
ノリ付け後タテ密度145本/吋のビームを作成し
た。次いでヨコ糸として直接製糸された複屈折
Δnが0.103の75D−36fの変形断面に80t/mの追
ネンを行ない、この糸条を3本合せて2200t/m
の強ネンを施し、85℃×60分間ヨリ止めを行な
い、ヨコ密度53本/吋の古代ちりめんを製織し
た。該布帛をロータリーワツシヤーでシボ立て処
理を行なつた。 この結果、シボよせ収縮率40.8%であり、かつ
シボ質、品位、風合いに優れた古代ちりめんに似
たものを得ることができた。 実施例 3 実施例2のタテ糸に、ヨコ糸として50D−18f
の2分割糸(分割後50D−36f)100t/mの追ネ
ンを行ない、該糸条を4本合せて2300t/mの強
ネンを施し、85℃×60分間ヨリ止めを行ない、ヨ
コ密度56本/吋で製織を行ないちりめんを作成し
た。該布帛をロータリーワツシヤーでシボ立てを
行なつた。 この結果、シボよせ収縮率が41.3%で、シボ
質、品位、風合いともに優れたちりめんを得るこ
とができた。
[Table] As is clear from Table 3, Experiments Nos. 2 to 6 and 8 were within the range of the method of the present invention, so the grain shrinkage rate, grain texture, generation of horns, and texture were all favorable. Obtained. On the other hand, Experiment No. 1 had a low number of sweet yarns, Experiment No. 7 used a single yarn like the conventional example, and Experiment No. 9 had a low strong yarn coefficient, so all of them were satisfactory. No good results were obtained. Example 2 75D- polyester filament in warp yarn
200t/m additional reinforcement is applied to the 36f deformed cross-section yarn,
After gluing, a beam with a vertical density of 145 lines/inch was created. Next, the deformed cross-section of 75D-36f with a birefringence Δn of 0.103 was directly spun as a weft yarn, and additional yarn was added at a rate of 80 t/m, resulting in a total of 2200 t/m of three yarns.
The ancient crepe was applied with a strong cotton cloth and held at 85℃ for 60 minutes to prevent twisting, and the width density was 53 pieces/inch. The fabric was textured using a rotary washer. As a result, we were able to obtain something similar to ancient crepe, which had a grain shrinkage rate of 40.8% and was excellent in grain quality, quality, and texture. Example 3 Add 50D-18f to the warp yarn of Example 2 as the weft yarn.
The two-split yarn (50D-36F after splitting) was re-strengthened at a rate of 100t/m, and the four yarns were then subjected to a strong rendition of 2300t/m, and twisted for 60 minutes at 85°C, with a weft density of 56. I made crepe by weaving with a book. The fabric was embossed using a rotary washer. As a result, it was possible to obtain crepe with a grain shrinkage rate of 41.3% and excellent grain quality, quality, and texture.

Claims (1)

【特許請求の範囲】 1 ポリエステルフイラメント糸条に50t/m〜
300t/mの甘ヨリ追ネンを施し、該糸条を複数本
合せて更にヨリ係数K=20000以上の強ネンを施
し、次いでヨリ止めを行ない、しかる後に編織物
を形成し、シボ立ち処理を行なうことを特徴とす
る強ネン糸を含む編織物の製造方法。 2 ポリエステル糸条の原糸の複屈折Δnが0.14
以下、糸密度ρ=1.365g/cm3以上からなること
を特徴とする特許請求の範囲第1項記載の強ネン
糸を含む編織物の製造方法。 3 ポリエステル糸条の単繊維の繊度が1.0デニ
ール以上から成る2分割以上のコンジユゲート糸
条からなることを特徴とする特許請求の範囲第1
項記載の強ネン糸を含む編織物の製造方法。
[Claims] 1 Polyester filament yarn from 50t/m
A soft twist addition of 300t/m is applied, several yarns are combined and a strong addition with a twist coefficient of K=20000 or more is applied, and then a twist prevention is performed, after which a knitted fabric is formed and a grain treatment is applied. A method for producing a knitted fabric containing strong cotton yarn. 2 Birefringence Δn of the raw polyester yarn is 0.14
A method for producing a knitted fabric containing strong cotton yarn according to claim 1, characterized in that the yarn density ρ is 1.365 g/cm 3 or more. 3. Claim 1, characterized in that the polyester yarn consists of two or more split conjugate yarns in which the single fiber fineness of the polyester yarn is 1.0 denier or more.
A method for producing a knitted fabric containing the strong cotton yarn described in 1.
JP59111026A 1984-06-01 1984-06-01 Production of knitted fabric containing hard twisted yarn Granted JPS60259650A (en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP59111026A JPS60259650A (en) 1984-06-01 1984-06-01 Production of knitted fabric containing hard twisted yarn

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP59111026A JPS60259650A (en) 1984-06-01 1984-06-01 Production of knitted fabric containing hard twisted yarn

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
JPS60259650A JPS60259650A (en) 1985-12-21
JPH0224939B2 true JPH0224939B2 (en) 1990-05-31

Family

ID=14550510

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
JP59111026A Granted JPS60259650A (en) 1984-06-01 1984-06-01 Production of knitted fabric containing hard twisted yarn

Country Status (1)

Country Link
JP (1) JPS60259650A (en)

Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPS4947666A (en) * 1972-09-08 1974-05-08
JPS54138657A (en) * 1978-04-12 1979-10-27 Toray Industries Production of yarn dyed crepe fabric

Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPS4947666A (en) * 1972-09-08 1974-05-08
JPS54138657A (en) * 1978-04-12 1979-10-27 Toray Industries Production of yarn dyed crepe fabric

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
JPS60259650A (en) 1985-12-21

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