JPH0123578B2 - - Google Patents

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Publication number
JPH0123578B2
JPH0123578B2 JP58101323A JP10132383A JPH0123578B2 JP H0123578 B2 JPH0123578 B2 JP H0123578B2 JP 58101323 A JP58101323 A JP 58101323A JP 10132383 A JP10132383 A JP 10132383A JP H0123578 B2 JPH0123578 B2 JP H0123578B2
Authority
JP
Japan
Prior art keywords
yarn
strong
shrinkage rate
temperature
boiling water
Prior art date
Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
Expired
Application number
JP58101323A
Other languages
Japanese (ja)
Other versions
JPS59228043A (en
Inventor
Shinzo Nishizumi
Itsuo Tabayashi
Manabu Terao
Current Assignee (The listed assignees may be inaccurate. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation or warranty as to the accuracy of the list.)
Toray Industries Inc
Original Assignee
Toray Industries Inc
Priority date (The priority date is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the date listed.)
Filing date
Publication date
Application filed by Toray Industries Inc filed Critical Toray Industries Inc
Priority to JP58101323A priority Critical patent/JPS59228043A/en
Publication of JPS59228043A publication Critical patent/JPS59228043A/en
Publication of JPH0123578B2 publication Critical patent/JPH0123578B2/ja
Granted legal-status Critical Current

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  • Artificial Filaments (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Woven Fabrics (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)

Description

【発明の詳細な説明】 〔本発明の技術分野〕 本発明はポリエステル繊維から成る強ネン編織
物の製造方法に関するものであり、詳しくは糸ム
ラを有する素材の特長、その強ネン糸の特長を十
分に生かした強ネン編織物に関するものである。
[Detailed Description of the Invention] [Technical Field of the Invention] The present invention relates to a method for producing a strong linen knitted fabric made of polyester fibers. It concerns a strong linen knitted fabric that is fully utilized.

〔従来技術とその問題点〕[Prior art and its problems]

ポリエステル繊維を含む編織物のシボ立てはロ
ータリーワツシヤー、あるいは連続リラクサーな
どのシボ立て装置の温湯中で機械的な衝撃作用を
加えて強ネン糸のトルクを解ネンさせ、強ネン編
織物を得るのが通常である。しかしポリエステル
繊維で糸ムラを有する糸条は一般的に沸水収縮率
が30%以上のため、従来からこの用途に用いられ
ているシルク、レーヨン、ナイロン、通常のポリ
エステルに比べて、シボ立ち性が非常に悪いこと
は周知である。これは糸条の沸水収縮率が30%以
上と大きいために、強ネン付与後の撚止めにおい
て、ネン糸シリンダー内外層の撚止めムラ、シボ
立ての不適などのために満足なものが得られなか
つた。
Texture of knitted fabrics containing polyester fibers is achieved by applying mechanical shock in hot water using a texturing device such as a rotary washer or a continuous relaxer to release the torque of the strong cotton yarn, thereby obtaining a strong cotton knitted fabric. is normal. However, polyester fibers with uneven threads generally have a boiling water shrinkage rate of 30% or more, so they have a higher wrinkle resistance compared to silk, rayon, nylon, and regular polyester, which have traditionally been used for this purpose. It is well known that it is very bad. This is because the shrinkage rate of the yarn in boiling water is as high as 30% or more, and unsatisfactory results can be obtained due to uneven twist fixing on the inner and outer layers of the cotton yarn cylinder and inappropriate graining after applying strong elastic. Nakatsuta.

〔本発明の目的〕[Object of the present invention]

本発明はかかる従来の欠点を改良するものであ
り、ポリエステル繊維で糸ムラを有する糸条で、
沸水収縮率が20%以下の糸条に強ネン−撚止め−
製編織−シボ立てを行なうことにより、大幅にシ
ボ立て特性、シボ質を向上させることにある。
The present invention is intended to improve such conventional drawbacks, and uses polyester fiber yarns with yarn unevenness.
Strong yarn for yarns with boiling water shrinkage of 20% or less - Anti-twisting -
Weaving and weaving - By performing grain raising, the purpose is to significantly improve the grain raising characteristics and grain quality.

〔本発明の構成〕[Configuration of the present invention]

本発明の構成は、「ウースタムラu%が0.6〜
9.0%以上のポリエステル繊維の糸ムラを有する
糸で、沸水収縮率20%以下の糸条にヨリ係数K=
16000以上の強ネンを施し、40〜75℃の温度で撚
止めを行ない、しかる後に編織物を形成し、シボ
立てを撚止め温度〜撚止め温度プラス15℃以下の
温度で強ネン糸の解ネンを十分に行なうことを特
徴とする強ネン編織物の製造方法」である。
The structure of the present invention is that "Ustamula u% is 0.6~
Twisting coefficient K= for yarn with polyester fiber unevenness of 9.0% or more and boiling water shrinkage rate of 20% or less
A strong yarn of 16,000 or more is applied and twisted at a temperature of 40 to 75℃, after which a knitted fabric is formed, and the grain is unraveled at a temperature between the twisting temperature and the twisting temperature plus 15℃ or less A method for producing a strong linen knitted fabric characterized by sufficiently carrying out linen.

本発明のポリエステル繊維は糸ムラを有する沸
水収縮率が20%以上の糸条を熱処理することによ
り20%以下にした糸条であつてもよい。上記にお
いて、ヨリ係数Kは、 K=ヨリ数(t/m)×√デニール(D) で示されるものである。
The polyester fiber of the present invention may be a yarn having uneven boiling water shrinkage of 20% or more and reduced to 20% or less by heat treatment. In the above, the twist coefficient K is expressed as follows: K=number of twists (t/m)×√denier (D).

本発明を構成するポリエステルはエチレンテレ
フタレート単位を80モル%以上含むものである。
共重合成分としては、例えばアジピン酸、セバシ
ン酸、イソフタル酸、ジフエニルジカルボン酸、
ナフタリンジカルボン酸、5―ナトリウムスルホ
イソフタル酸などの二塩基酸類、オキシ安息香酸
の如きオキシ酸類、およびジエチレングリコー
ル、プロピレングリコール、ネオペンチルグリコ
ール、ペンタエリスリトール、ポリエチレングリ
コールモノメチルエーテルなどのグリコール類の
うちから1種または2種以上のものを使用するこ
とができる。糸条を構成するポリエステルは、複
屈折率20×10-3以上の中間配向未延伸糸を紡糸
し、これを2次転位点以上の温度で延伸し、繊維
軸方向に直径ムラの分布を有し、ウースタームラ
u%が0.6〜9.0%、沸水収縮率が20%以下の糸条
とするか、あるいは繊維軸方向に直径ムラの分布
を有しu%が0.6〜9.0%、沸水収縮率が20%以上
の糸条を90〜220℃の熱で処理を行ない、沸水収
縮率が20%以下の糸条とする。かかるムラのある
糸とは、例えばシツクアンドシンヤーン(延伸部
と未延伸部を糸条の長さ方向にランダムに有する
糸)とすることにより得ることができる。
The polyester constituting the present invention contains 80 mol% or more of ethylene terephthalate units.
Examples of copolymerization components include adipic acid, sebacic acid, isophthalic acid, diphenyldicarboxylic acid,
One type from dibasic acids such as naphthalene dicarboxylic acid and 5-sodium sulfoisophthalic acid, oxyacids such as oxybenzoic acid, and glycols such as diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, pentaerythritol, and polyethylene glycol monomethyl ether. Or two or more types can be used. The polyester constituting the yarn is made by spinning intermediately oriented undrawn yarn with a birefringence of 20 x 10 -3 or higher, and stretching this at a temperature higher than the secondary dislocation point to create a distribution of diameter unevenness in the fiber axis direction. The yarn has a Wooster unevenness u% of 0.6 to 9.0% and a boiling water shrinkage rate of 20% or less, or has a diameter uneven distribution in the fiber axis direction, a u% of 0.6 to 9.0%, and a boiling water shrinkage rate of 20% or less. 20% or more of the yarn is treated with heat at 90 to 220°C to create a yarn with a boiling water shrinkage rate of 20% or less. Such uneven yarn can be obtained, for example, by making it into a thick-and-thin yarn (a yarn having stretched portions and unstretched portions randomly in the length direction of the yarn).

〔本発明の作用効果〕[Actions and effects of the present invention]

本発明の作用効果を図などを用いて説明する。
本発明を従来との対比で図を用いて説明すると、
第1図はセツト温度とセツト後のビリ度(80cmの
強ネン糸の中央に0.01g/dの荷重を吊し、両端
を中央にまとめてヨリを入れ、その長さでのヨリ
数)の関係であり、第1図の1は通常糸(従来の
延伸糸)の75D―36fのポリエステル糸に2500t/
mの強ネンを施したものである。通常、製織可能
(ヨコ糸に用いる場合)な強ネン糸のビリ度は65
以下であり、そのためにポリエステルの強ネン糸
は80〜90℃でセツトを行なつており、図中のaが
そのビリ度となる。
The effects of the present invention will be explained using figures and the like.
The present invention will be explained using diagrams in comparison with the conventional method.
Figure 1 shows the setting temperature and the degree of twist after setting (a load of 0.01 g/d is suspended in the center of an 80 cm strong cotton thread, both ends are brought together in the center and twisted, and the number of twists at that length). 1 in Figure 1 is a 75D-36f polyester yarn of normal yarn (conventional drawn yarn) with 2500t/
It is made with a strong coating of m. Normally, the stiffness of strong cotton yarn that can be woven (when used for weft yarn) is 65
For this reason, the polyester strong yarn is set at 80 to 90°C, and a in the figure indicates its frizz.

図中2は糸ムラu%5.8%の糸条で沸水収縮率
が50%の75D−36fのポリエステル糸に2500t/m
の強ネンを施し、セツトしたものである。このセ
ツト条件はビリ度が40℃以上のセツトで50以下と
小さく、製織においてなんら問題がない。しか
し、糸条の収縮率が大きいために、セツト時にシ
リンダーの内外層で収縮ムラ、セツトムラが起こ
り、織物品位に悪影響を与える。
2 in the figure is a 75D-36F polyester yarn with a yarn unevenness U% of 5.8% and a boiling water shrinkage rate of 50% at 2500t/m.
It is set with strong lining. This set condition is as small as 50 or less for a set of 40° C. or higher, and there is no problem in weaving. However, since the shrinkage rate of the yarn is high, uneven shrinkage and uneven setting occur in the inner and outer layers of the cylinder during setting, which adversely affects the quality of the fabric.

図中3の本発明糸は複屈折30×10-3の糸条を
110℃で延伸を行ない、u%が3.2%、沸水収縮率
が15%の糸を作り、2500t/mの強ネンを施し、
セツトしたものである。本発明糸の45℃のセツト
後のビリ度は60以下と図中1のaとほぼ同一レベ
ルとなり、取扱い性において、なんら問題がな
い。セツト時のシリンダー内外層の収縮ムラ、セ
ツトムラは通常糸よりも小さく、織物品位は非常
に良好となる。
The yarn of the present invention shown in 3 in the figure has a birefringence of 30×10 -3 .
Stretched at 110℃ to create yarn with u% of 3.2% and boiling water shrinkage rate of 15%, coated with 2500t/m of strong fibers,
It has been set. The degree of friability of the yarn of the present invention after setting at 45° C. is 60 or less, which is approximately the same level as 1 a in the figure, and there is no problem in handling. The shrinkage unevenness and setting unevenness of the inner and outer layers of the cylinder during setting are smaller than that of ordinary yarn, and the quality of the fabric is very good.

なお、これらの強ネンセツト後の熱処理ビリ度
(セツト後の強ネン糸80cmの中央に0.01g/dの荷
重を吊し、両端を中央にまとめてヨリを入れ、さ
らに、この試料を熱水中に投入して、ヨリを入れ
る。そのヨリ数を測定する)について第2図を用
いて説明する。図中1の通常糸のセツト温度80℃
の熱処理ビリ度は180であり、この熱処理ビリ度
でシボ質の優れた強ネン織物が得られる。図中2
はシツクアンドシン糸で沸水収縮率が50%の糸条
であるために、セツト温度40〜50℃でも熱処理ビ
リ度は150に達しない。このために満足な強ネン
織物を得ることができなかつた。図中3の本発明
糸はセツト温度50〜70℃で1の通常糸と同程度の
熱処理ビリ度を得ることができる。
In addition, the heat treatment strength after these strong yarn sets (a load of 0.01 g/d was suspended in the center of 80 cm of strong yarn after setting, both ends were brought together in the center and twisted, and this sample was placed in hot water) The following describes how to measure the number of twists with reference to Fig. 2. The setting temperature of the normal yarn 1 in the figure is 80℃
The heat treatment strength is 180, and a strong linen fabric with excellent texture can be obtained at this heat treatment strength. 2 in the diagram
Since it is a thick-and-thin yarn with a shrinkage rate of 50% in boiling water, the degree of heat treatment friability does not reach 150 even at a setting temperature of 40 to 50°C. For this reason, it was not possible to obtain a satisfactory strong linen fabric. The yarn of the present invention shown in 3 in the figure can obtain the same level of heat treatment strength as the ordinary yarn 1 at a setting temperature of 50 to 70°C.

本発明糸の沸水収縮率20%以下が好ましい理由
を第3図、第4図で説明する。第3図はムラを有
する糸条の沸水収縮率とセツト(60℃×40分)後
のビリ度の関係を示したものであり、沸水収縮率
にほとんど関係なくビリ度が60以下となり、製織
時の取扱い性は問題ない。第4図は糸ムラを有す
る糸条の沸水収縮率とセツト(60℃×40分)後の
熱処理ビリ度の関係を示したものであり、斜線で
示している部分150以上が満足なシボ質の強ネン
織物を得ることができる。すなわち、本発明は沸
水収縮率が20%以下であるために、斜線で示して
いる150以上の熱処理ビリ度を得ることができ、
本発明の目的とする糸ムラを有する糸条で良好な
シボ質の強ネン織物を得るためには、上述してい
るように、沸水収縮率20%以下の糸ムラを有する
糸条の強ネン糸を45〜75℃でセツトを行なうこと
により、満足なシボ質の強ネン織物を得ることが
できる。
The reason why the boiling water shrinkage rate of the yarn of the present invention is preferably 20% or less will be explained with reference to FIGS. 3 and 4. Figure 3 shows the relationship between the boiling water shrinkage rate of yarn with unevenness and the degree of frizz after setting (60°C x 40 minutes). There is no problem with handling time. Figure 4 shows the relationship between the boiling water shrinkage rate of yarn with yarn unevenness and the degree of heat treatment after setting (60℃ x 40 minutes). A strong linen fabric can be obtained. In other words, since the boiling water shrinkage rate of the present invention is 20% or less, it is possible to obtain a heat treatment friability degree of 150 or more, which is indicated by diagonal lines.
In order to obtain a strong linen fabric with yarns having yarn unevenness and a good texture, which is the object of the present invention, as mentioned above, it is necessary to By setting the yarn at a temperature of 45 to 75°C, a strong linen fabric with a satisfactory grain quality can be obtained.

さらに、好ましくは該強ネン織物のシボ立て
は、セツト温度近くから昇温速度を遅くするか、
あるいは解ネンのピークとなるセツト温度の10℃
程度高温で昇温を止める方法を採用すればよい。
Furthermore, preferably, the texturing of the strong linen fabric slows down the heating rate from near the set temperature, or
Or 10℃ of the set temperature at which the decomposition peaks.
It is sufficient to adopt a method of stopping the temperature rise at a moderately high temperature.

また本発明に適応する強ネン編織物はヨリ係数
K=16000以上の強ネン糸を経糸または緯糸また
は双方に用いる織物や、あるいは強ネン糸100%
や、他の糸との交編物など、何でも適応できる。
In addition, the strong cotton knitted fabric applicable to the present invention is a fabric using strong cotton yarn with a twist coefficient K = 16,000 or more in the warp or weft, or both, or a fabric made of 100% strong cotton yarn.
It can be used for anything, such as knitting with other yarns.

以下実施例で説明する。 This will be explained below using examples.

実施例 1 ポリエチレンテレフタレートを3000m/minで
紡糸した中間配向未延伸糸を作成し、次いで延伸
倍率1.47、延伸温度85℃で延伸し、しかる後に
160℃で5%のリラツクス熱処理を行ない沸水収
縮率13%、糸ムラu%で3.8%の糸条を得た。こ
の糸条に2500t/mの強ネンを施し、60℃でセツ
トを行ない、ビリ度50、熱処理ビリ度180の強ネ
ンを得た。この強ネン糸を用いて平クレープを作
成し、ワツシヤーでシボ立て後、染仕上げ加工を
行なつたクレープはシボ質良好でしかも非常にド
レープ性に優れたものが得られた。
Example 1 An intermediately oriented undrawn yarn was prepared by spinning polyethylene terephthalate at 3000 m/min, then drawn at a drawing ratio of 1.47 and a drawing temperature of 85°C, and then
A 5% relaxation heat treatment was performed at 160°C to obtain a yarn with a boiling water shrinkage rate of 13% and a yarn unevenness u% of 3.8%. This yarn was coated with 2500 t/m of strong strands and set at 60°C to obtain strong strands with a strength of 50 and a heat-treated strength of 180. A flat crepe was made using this strong cotton yarn, and after being embossed with a washer, the crepe was dyed and finished.The crepe had a good texture and excellent drapability.

実施例 2 実施例1の中間配向未延伸糸を延伸倍率1.52、
延伸温度100℃で延伸し、沸水収縮率12%、糸ム
ラu%で1.9%の糸条を得た。この糸条を実施例
1と同一条件で強ネン、セツトを行ない、ビリ度
46、熱処理ビリ度175の強ネンを得た。この強ネ
ン糸を用いて梨地クレープを作成し、ワツシヤー
でシボ立て後、染仕上げ加工を行なつたクレープ
はシボ質良好で、しかもドレープ性に優れたもの
が得られた。
Example 2 The intermediately oriented undrawn yarn of Example 1 was stretched at a stretching ratio of 1.52.
It was drawn at a drawing temperature of 100°C to obtain a yarn with a boiling water shrinkage rate of 12% and a yarn unevenness u% of 1.9%. This yarn was tightened and set under the same conditions as in Example 1 to determine the degree of frizz.
46, a strong Nene with a heat treatment strength of 175 was obtained. This strong cotton yarn was used to create a satin crepe, which was then embossed with a washer and then dyed to give a crepe with good texture and excellent drape properties.

比較実施例 1 実施例1の延伸で得られた沸水収縮率60%の糸
条に、2500t/mの強ネンを施し、60℃でセツト
を行ない、ビリ度15、熱処理ビリ度60の強ネン糸
を得た。この強ネン糸を用いて平クレープを作成
し、ワツシヤーでシボ立て後、染仕上げ加工を行
なつたところ、ネン糸シリンダー内外層にムラが
発生するとともに、シボ発生も見られずボイル調
のクレープとなつた。
Comparative Example 1 The yarn with a boiling water shrinkage rate of 60% obtained by stretching in Example 1 was coated with 2500 t/m of strong yarn and set at 60°C to produce a strong yarn with a strength of 15 and a heat treatment strength of 60. Got the thread. When a flat crepe was made using this strong cotton yarn, and after it was embossed with a washer and then dyed, unevenness occurred on the inner and outer layers of the cotton yarn cylinder, and no embossment was observed, resulting in a voile-like crepe. It became.

比較実施例 2 比較実施例1で得られた糸条に、2500t/mの
強ネンを施し、40℃でセツトを行ない、ビリ度
50、熱処理ビリ度118の強ネンを得た。比較実施
例1と同様の織物、染仕上げ加工を行なつたが、
ネン糸シリンダー内外層のムラは解消されたが、
満足なシボ質のクレープが得られなかつた。
Comparative Example 2 The yarn obtained in Comparative Example 1 was coated with 2500 t/m of strong yarn and set at 40°C to determine the degree of frizz.
50, and a strong Nene with a heat treatment strength of 118 was obtained. The same fabric and dyeing finishing process as in Comparative Example 1 were carried out, but
Although the unevenness between the inner and outer layers of the yarn cylinder was resolved,
A crepe with a satisfactory texture could not be obtained.

【図面の簡単な説明】[Brief explanation of drawings]

第1図は強ネン2500t/mを施した、セツト温
度とビリ度の関係を示したものであり、第2図は
第1図に用いた強ネン糸のセツト温度と熱処理ビ
リ度の関係を示す。第3図は糸条の収縮率とビリ
と、第4図は第3図に用いた糸条の収縮率と熱処
理ビリ度の関係を示す。
Figure 1 shows the relationship between the setting temperature and the degree of stiffness when 2500t/m of high-strength yarn was applied, and Figure 2 shows the relationship between the setting temperature and the heat-treated strength of the high-strength yarn used in Figure 1. show. FIG. 3 shows the relationship between the shrinkage rate and the tightening of the yarn, and FIG. 4 shows the relationship between the shrinkage rate of the yarn used in FIG. 3 and the degree of heat treatment tightening.

Claims (1)

【特許請求の範囲】 1 ウースタームラu%が0.6〜9.0%であるポリ
エステル繊維の糸ムラを有する糸で、沸水収縮率
20%以下の糸条にヨリ係数K=16000以上の強ネ
ンを施し、40〜75℃の温度で撚止めを行ない、し
かる後に編織物を形成し、シボ立てを撚止め温度
〜撚止め温度プラス15℃以下の温度で強ネン糸の
解ネンを行なうことを特徴とする強ネン編織物の
製造方法。 2 ポリエステル繊維の糸ムラを有する糸で、沸
水収縮率が20%以上の糸条を熱処理することによ
り収縮率を20%以下の糸条とすることを特徴とす
る特許請求の範囲第1項記載の強ネン編織物の製
造方法。
[Claims] 1. A polyester fiber yarn having yarn unevenness with a Wooster unevenness u% of 0.6 to 9.0%, which has a boiling water shrinkage rate.
A strong fiber with a twist coefficient K of 16,000 or more is applied to yarns of 20% or less, and the twist is stopped at a temperature of 40 to 75°C. After that, a knitted fabric is formed, and the texture is set between the twisting temperature and the twisting temperature plus A method for producing a strong linen knitted fabric, characterized in that a strong linen yarn is dewoven at a temperature of 15°C or lower. 2. Claim 1, which is characterized in that the yarn is made of polyester fiber and has a yarn unevenness, and the yarn has a boiling water shrinkage rate of 20% or more, and is made to have a shrinkage rate of 20% or less by heat-treating the yarn. A method for producing a strong linen knitted fabric.
JP58101323A 1983-06-07 1983-06-07 Production of hard twisted knitted fabric Granted JPS59228043A (en)

Priority Applications (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP58101323A JPS59228043A (en) 1983-06-07 1983-06-07 Production of hard twisted knitted fabric

Applications Claiming Priority (1)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
JP58101323A JPS59228043A (en) 1983-06-07 1983-06-07 Production of hard twisted knitted fabric

Publications (2)

Publication Number Publication Date
JPS59228043A JPS59228043A (en) 1984-12-21
JPH0123578B2 true JPH0123578B2 (en) 1989-05-08

Family

ID=14297603

Family Applications (1)

Application Number Title Priority Date Filing Date
JP58101323A Granted JPS59228043A (en) 1983-06-07 1983-06-07 Production of hard twisted knitted fabric

Country Status (1)

Country Link
JP (1) JPS59228043A (en)

Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPS55112335A (en) * 1979-02-19 1980-08-29 Hosokawa Kigyo Production of sheersucker like fabric
JPS5735029A (en) * 1980-08-01 1982-02-25 Teijin Ltd Production of hard twisted fabric showing slab effect

Patent Citations (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
JPS55112335A (en) * 1979-02-19 1980-08-29 Hosokawa Kigyo Production of sheersucker like fabric
JPS5735029A (en) * 1980-08-01 1982-02-25 Teijin Ltd Production of hard twisted fabric showing slab effect

Also Published As

Publication number Publication date
JPS59228043A (en) 1984-12-21

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