JPH01317476A - Method for mounting flap of pocket to garment and sewing machine operated by said method - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE: To facilitate a marking work by setting a flap to a position which is previously fixed concerning the control part of a sewing machine on an operation surface and moving it between the first position by which the flap is arranged with its front surface upward at a position for attachment to clothes and the second position by which the flap is separated from a work surface as against the sewing machine. CONSTITUTION: An engaging device 20 is used for moving a working head 21 to the first position. In other words, the flap is set on the work surface 5 on a part 3 of the clothes. Side members 33 and 34 are in open positions so that the flap 2 is placed between them. The flap is arranged with its front surface upward between the side members 33 and 34. When the engaging device is newly controlled, the flap is separated from the work surface since the head 21 is placed on the second position. In connection with this, a feeder 7 is preliminary moved to a part 3 of the clothes in accordance with a position which is previously occupied by the work head 21. While the engaging device 20 is between the first and the second positions, a compressed air driving part 37 is operated for rotating the work head 21 in an arrow F direction as against a connection plate 29. The flap 2 held between the side members 33 and 34 is placed with its front surface downward.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION [Industrial Field of Application] The present invention provides that a garment or a part thereof is introduced with its front side facing upwards on the working surface of a sewing machine, said sewing machine is for sewing pockets, and that said surface the machine is equipped with a control part for the machine, one of which is provided with a feeding device attached to said machine, for pre-traversing said garment on said working surface, one part facing downwards on said feeding device; The present invention relates to a method relating to a method for attaching a pocket flap to a garment, which is introduced into a prefixed position of a feeding device and handed over by said feeding device together with the garment to be guided from said machine also to a sewing station and a cutting station.

The present invention relates to a sewing machine having a working surface and operating in a certain manner, and further comprising a control member for sewing onto the garment for arranging the garment or portions thereof and hangings in place on the working surface; In order to guide the sag into a predetermined position on the conveyor belt, the working surface and the sewing machine also involve feeding devices and means for moving between the sewing station and the cutting station.

[Conventional technology]

This type of sewing machine, which operates in the above-mentioned manner, is manufactured by the West German company DURKOPPWERKE under the trade name ``Kuchi UR''.
It is manufactured as KOPP 745 J.

In the case of a few garments, especially pants and trousers, flaps or lids are fitted depending on the pockets to cover the so-called pocket cuts.

The sewing machine discussed here is specially prepared to carry out the above-mentioned work steps semi-automatically and to apply piping or edging in connection with the process depending on the cut of the pocket.

The operating cycle of this known sewing machine includes the following steps.

Attachment of pocket notches - The part of the garment that needs to be attached is introduced onto the work surface of the sewing machine by an optical control that illuminates the work surface of the sewing machine. , tidy and held in position by means of a pneumatic system equipped with suction, passing over said working surface.

Draps previously made from the same fabric of the garment are introduced into a face of the sewing machine remote from the working surface and are tidyed up on said face by means of a stopper. When the sewing machine is started, the sag is engaged by a device equipped with movable teeth and brought into the feed device.

This feeding device makes preliminary movements in between over the garment on the working surface. Said sag, together with a feeding device and the part of the garment to which it is attached, is automatically introduced into a sewing and cutting station, where it is sewn according to the pocket cut.

Allowing for tolerance in positioning the droop on the garment,
The work cycle and the machine that performs it are fully available. This is the case for garments and sag that are made from plain fabrics.

However, when employing patterned fabrics, such as fabrics with stripes or diamonds, or fabrics with fancy patterns, the positioning of the sag must be very precise. This is because it is necessary to match the position of the pattern on the hanger with the position of the pattern on the fabric of the garment.

In this case, the work cycle is changed as follows. The fabric forming part of the garment, for example the front part of a sukko, is spread out on the working surface of the sewing machine. Position the drape according to the cut in the pocket and match it with the pattern of the fabric. In the case of striped fabrics, for example, match the stripes of the drape with the stripes of the garment. In the case of fabrics with diamond-shaped patterns, the above combination is performed for both horizontal and vertical stripes.

Reference marks are made with chalk on the garment fabric to ensure correct positioning of the drape, which is used to match the pattern.

The sag is thus separated from the garment and rests on a flat surface against a stopper provided on this surface.

A secure positioning of the garment part then takes place on the working surface of the sewing machine. In that case, the clothes are adjusted and the markings made with chalk are identified, in particular on the optical controls illuminating the work surface.

The piece of clothing is then held on a working surface and the working cycle is carried out in the manner described above.

The results achieved with this known method of operation are nevertheless not very satisfactory.

The positioning of the sag is actually influenced by a variety of factors. For example, the possible errors when making chalk fiducial marks on clothing textiles - for the optical control projected onto the textile - due to the thick chalk marks on the textile material on the work surface. Possible errors in secure positioning, deformation of the mold when fabricated from loose (soft) fabrics, or incorrect installation against flat stoppers may be caused by sag on the plane of the machine in order to restore the correct position. Possible errors in positioning, etc.

It has been found that when working with striped fabrics in this way, approximately 50% of the garments made require subsequent modification because the drape pattern does not match the pattern of the garment fabric. In the case of checkered fabrics, the situation is even more acute in this second case, since the chalk marks can double the error.

In addition, marks controlled by chalk complicate the work. This process relies on ensuring that the drape and part of the garment are properly matched before being sewn together.

[Problem of invention]

The object of the invention is to provide a method for attaching pocket flaps to clothing, which overcomes the necessary technical problems associated with the known methods cited above.

[Solution of the Problem] The above problem is solved by a method including the above process and a method in which the sag is introduced into the meshing device with the front side facing up before being introduced into the feeding device, and this sag is placed on the working surface. This device is introduced into the sewing machine between a first position in which it sinks into a pre-fixed position with respect to the control part of the sewing machine, and a second position in which this sagging is moved away from the operating plane when the engaging device is in the first position. the garment and the control unit are aligned and engaged by the device, the garment is secured to the work surface, while the engagement device moves with the sag to the second position and the feeding device moves the garment over the garment. It is characterized by the fact that this drop is then rotated face down by means of an interlocking device and transferred to said conveyor belt.

This method can be realized using a sewing machine of the type cited and is characterized by the following fact. That is, said means have an interlocking device for said sag, said sag being submerged in a prefixed position with respect to the control of the sewing machine above the working surface, and provided with said sag surface facing upward in the position of attachment to the garment. and a second position in which the sag is moved away from the work surface. In that case, the device is equipped with means for fixing the sag and has a rad for the operation of switching down the surface of the mold in the passage between the first and second positions.

〔Example〕

The characteristics of the above-mentioned improvements and their advantages can be gleaned from the following detailed description of a preferred embodiment of the manufacturing process according to the method of the invention, and from the corresponding operating sewing machine, which should not be understood as limiting with reference to the accompanying drawings. .

In FIG. 1, the entire sewing machine is indicated by the reference numeral I.

This sewing machine is equipped to sew a sag 2 onto a garment 3 or a part thereof, such as the front side of a jacket. Sewing machine 1
Some of these are well known to those skilled in the art and industry, and some are only partially indicated. Such sewing machines are manufactured, for example, by the West German company DIIRKOPP ERKE under the trade name DIIRKOPP 745, or are also available as equivalent sewing machines.

Sewing machine l has a frame 4. This frame has
a working surface 5, a sewing/cutting station 6, a feed device 7 which moves between station 6 and the working surface 5 in a manner known per se, each position projecting an optical control 9 onto the working surface 5; means 1 for guiding a large number of projectors 8 and sag 2 to a conveying device (feeding device) 7 at predetermined positions;
0 is included.

Furthermore, the sewing machine is equipped with a device 11 known per se for guiding the crosspiece or edging onto the conveying device 7. These bars or borders are placed on the garment 3 along with the drape 2.
It is intended for sewing by all known methods which are outside the scope of this invention.

The working surface 5 is equipped with a compressed air driven holding device. Clothes are suctioned by this device, and a number of suction ports 12 are visible in FIG.

In the means IO there is a tooth device, designated in its entirety by the reference numeral 14. This device includes a first log 15 reciprocating under the action of a compressed air driven cylinder 16 around the axis on the frame 4 and a compressed air driven cylinder against the first log 17. There is a second log 17 that makes one reciprocating motion under the action of 18.

Furthermore, said means 1O has an interlocking device, which is designated throughout with the reference numeral 20. The device has a working head 21. This head has a position in which it engages the sag 2 and operates in the manner described below.

The device 20 has a console (also Menzola = "arm"). The console is fixed to the frame 4 and carries a post 22 shaped generally like C.

This column 22 incorporates a compressed air drive cylinder 23 having a case 24 and a piston 25 passing through the case 24. A connecting rod 26 slides on this column 22 and is guided parallel to the piston 25. One end of the connecting rod 26 is connected to the end of the corresponding piston 25 by a connecting portion 28; the opposite end is fixed to a connecting plate 29 by the connecting rod 26 and the piston 25. .

The connecting plate 29 is equipped with an arm 30 in which the working head 21 is rotatably mounted around the axis B.

The work head 21 has a stand 31 to which the connecting plate 29 is bolted, and has two arms 31a, b, and a side member whose one end is fixed to the arm 31b of the stand and the other end is fixed. It is equipped with a corner piece 32 that supports 33. A movable side member 34, which is controlled by a compressed air cylinder 35 during opening and closing, is bolted to this side member 33. The side member 33 is composed of a protrusion 36 used as a stopper for the drop 2. Load-reducing holes are provided in the corner pieces and fixed side members.

Compressed air drive unit 37 installed between the arms of the stand 31
operates between the work head 21 and the connecting plate 29 to rotate the work head relative to the platform, as will be explained in detail later.

In a first step of the method of the invention, a slit 3 of a fabric forming part of a garment, for example the front part of a rug, is introduced face up onto a working surface 5 and positioned at a predetermined position on this working surface 5. will be tidyed up. In other words, the fabric is tidyed by the optical control section 9 which illuminates the fabric using the projector 8. Typically, two optical controls are projected onto the fabric. These controls indicate the operating axis of the sewing machine and allow the correct position of the drape 2 on the fabric to be specified.

The meshing device 20 is in the position shown in FIG.
This is for moving the working head 21 to position M). In other words, it sinks onto the working surface 5 above the part 3 of the garment.

Since the side members 33 and 34 are in the open position, the sag 2 is placed between them. This sag is placed face up between the side members 33,34. In this case, the longitudinal side (sewing facing side) rests on the protrusion 36 of the fixed side member.

By positioning the drape directly on a portion of the garment, precise alignment between the textile pattern of the drape and the textile pattern of the garment can be achieved so that both patterns correspond to each other.

The movable armpit member 34 is fixed to the fixed armpit member 35 by operating the compressed air cylinder 35, so that the sag is maintained at a preset position. In this connection, a suction device is driven through the working surface 5 and holds a part of the garment 3 on this working surface.

With a new control of the interlocking device, the working surface 5 is left in order to place the working head 21 in the second position.

In this connection, depending on the position pre-occupied by the working head 21, the feed device 7 pre-moves onto the part 3 of the garment.

During the process of releasing the working head, i.e. while the engagement device 20 is between the first and second positions, the compressed air drive 37
The working head 21 is operated so as to rotate about 80 degrees relative to the connecting plate 29 in the direction of arrow F in FIG. Side member 33
．． The sag 2 held between 34 will be face down.

At intermediate times, the first side member 15 of the toothing device moves around axis A under the action of the compressed air cylinder 16, and the second side member 17 is actuated to open by means of the compressed air cylinder 18. The toothing device thus appears as an open armpit against the sag held in the second position by the interlocking device 20.

When operating the compressed air cylinder 18, the sag is held between the flanks 15.17 of the toothing device and then into operation the rad 2
1 side member 33,34.

Transferring the drip between the working head 21 and the tooth device is as follows:
This is done without changing the hanging 2 to the sewing machine I, in particular to the working surface 5 on which the garment 3 is spread.

By operating the compressed air cylinder 16 again, the side part 15 of the toothing device is moved around the axis A and introduced into the conveying device (feeding device) 7 with the sag 2 facing up.

This drape is then held in the usual manner on a feeder and sewn together with the part of the garment to which it is sewn.
Transfer to cutting station.

Compared to the known technology, the invention offers the following advantages:

Firstly, the manual marking with chalk, which is necessary in the prior art for the correct positioning of the garment on the working surface of the sewing machine, is completely eliminated.

Besides the obvious time consumption and the resulting increase in product prices, all operational errors that inevitably occur with this type of marking are eliminated. Furthermore, since the task of manually positioning the sag on a sag equipped with a control unit, such as those provided in known sewing machines, is eliminated, positioning errors of the sag caused by deformation are eliminated. In addition, droop positioning errors due to sloppy sewing machine operators become insignificant. The reason is that the drips are tidied directly onto the clothes.

Finally, the method and sewing machine according to the invention can also be advantageously employed for making garments made of colorless textiles.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

FIG. 1 is a perspective view of a part of a sewing machine for sewing sagging onto clothing. FIG. 2 is a schematic perspective view of a detail of FIG. 1; FIG. 3 is a perspective view of the detail of FIG. 2 shown on an enlarged scale; 4 to 9, schematic drawings of a sewing machine according to said drawings showing the individual steps of the method of the invention. Citation symbols in the figure: ■...Sewing machine, 2...Drop, size (approx.) 41 Agent I1 Address: 2-8-1 Toranomon, Minato-ku, Tokyo (Tora no 1)
□'Nawaki Building) 6. As per the attached sheet subject to amendment

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] 1. The garment or a part thereof is introduced with its front side facing upwards on the working surface of a sewing machine, said sewing machine being for sewing pockets and equipped with a control of the machine on said surface; , a feeding device attached to said machine is pre-traveled over said garment on said working surface, the sag is placed face down on said feeding device, introduced into a pre-fixed position of said feeding device, and carried together with the garment; a sewing station and a cutting station are also delivered from said machine by said feeder to guide said machine, and in a method for applying a pocket front flap onto a garment, said drape is placed front side up before being introduced into said feeder. a first position in which the sagging is introduced into the engaging device with respect to the working plane and this sagging sinks in a prefixed position with respect to the control of the sewing machine on the working surface; This device is introduced into the sewing machine between a second position of separating and arranging the garment and said control and is engaged by said device, the garment being fixed to the working surface, while said engagement device aligns said control with said sag. moved into a second position, characterized by the fact that said feeding device is pre-transferred onto the garment; this droop is then rotated face down by an interlocking device and transferred to said conveyor belt; There is. 2. In order to deliver the sag face down to the feeding device, when this sag is in the second position, this sag is exchanged between the working head of the meshing device and the toothing device of the sewing machine. The method of claim 1, characterized in that: 3. A work surface, a control member for arranging the hangings corresponding to the clothes or a part of the clothes at a predetermined position on the work surface and sewing them onto the clothes, and a sewing machine between the work surface and the sewing machine; a feeding device that can move between the cutting station and the cutting station;
and a means for placing the sag on a predetermined position of the feeding device, the sewing machine for attaching a pocket sag to a garment by the method according to claim 1, wherein the means comprises:
There is an interlocking device for the droop which is movable relative to the sewing machine between a first position and a second position, the first position lowering the droop into position above the work surface - relative to the control of the sewing machine. , introduce it to the place where it will be attached to clothing with the dripping surface facing up,
in a second position the sag is away from the working surface, said interlocking device being equipped with means for retaining said sag, with the surface of said sag facing down in a passage between said first position and said second position; A sewing machine characterized by having a work head that can rotate. 4. Claim characterized in that the feeding device has a toothed device for transferring the hanging with its surface facing down, and the working head functions in the second position of the toothed device as an installation device. The sewing machine described in 3.