JPH0120254B2 - - Google Patents

Description

[Detailed Description of the Invention] [Industrial Application Field] The present invention provides a composite fancy yarn having an extremely random natural unevenness, a slab with a rustic appearance, and an excellent spun-like texture. Regarding its manufacturing method.

[Conventional technology]

BACKGROUND ART Conventionally, knitted fabrics using fancy yarns having slabs have a unique appearance and texture, and have therefore been highly valued without ever going out of style. It has been widely known for a long time that such fancy yarns are produced using a spinning machine, a design twisting machine, or the like.

However, conventional fancy yarns have the following various problems in common. That is, fancy yarn produced using a spinning machine has a texture and unevenness unique to spun yarn, but the production speed is slow and the manufacturing cost is high. In particular, in order to obtain a fancy yarn having a unique effect, production management is complicated, and a large amount of loss is involved, resulting in higher costs.

Even with a design twisting machine, productivity is low and costs are high, and when manufacturing fancy yarns by combining two or more types of yarn, there are limits to the range of combinations and changes in slab form, and mechanical slab formation is difficult. , when fabricated into knitted fabrics, periodic defects are unavoidable.

In addition, in recent years, slub yarns in which single-wound parts and triple-wound parts of the sheath yarn are alternately formed around the core yarn using false-twisted composite yarns have been developed.
-35147, JP-A-52-96260, etc. However, the fancy yarn obtained by such a false-twisting composite technique is either made into knotted yarn by rubbing the yarn length difference that occurs continuously or intermittently, or the sheath yarn is wrapped around the core yarn in a single wrap. The triple wrapping portions are simply formed alternately, and there is little variation in the form.
It is artificial and lacks the natural unevenness and texture of natural fibers.

[Problem that the invention seeks to solve]

The purpose of the present invention is to produce, at low cost, a unique spun-like slab-like fancy yarn that has the natural unevenness, rustic appearance, and excellent texture of natural fibers that could not be obtained using conventional techniques. The aim is to provide stable supplies.

[Means for solving problems]

The present invention has the following configuration.

That is, one invention is a composite yarn composed of a core yarn A made of long fiber yarns and sheath yarns B and C made of at least two yarns, the two sheath yarns being the core yarns. It has a multi-layered winding structure with a double winding part, a quadruple winding part, and a six-fold winding part, and the quadruple winding part and six-fold winding part are intermittently randomly wrapped. A slab with uneven length and thickness is formed, with the double wrapping section being wound in the opposite direction to the twisting direction, and the outer layers of the quadruple wrapping section and sextuple wrapping section being wound in the same direction as the twisting direction. It is a composite fancy yarn characterized by the formation of Another invention provides that when at least three types of yarns are false-twisted at the same time, yarns B and C, which are to become sheath yarns, account for at least 30% of yarn A, which is to become core yarns,
While feeding with the above overfeed, the sheath yarns B and C are combined in the twisted area of the core yarn, and the supply guides for the sheath yarns B and C are installed separately at a distance of at least 20 mm from the running yarn line of the core yarn A, and the sheath yarn B , C are made to merge with the core yarn separately using this supply guide as a fulcrum point, and the supply guide distances l, l' of the sheath yarns B and C with respect to the core yarn and the time when the sheath yarns B and C are wound around the core yarn A are calculated. This is a method for manufacturing a composite fancy yarn, characterized in that winding is performed within a range that satisfies the following relationship between the confluence widths n and n'.

n, n'=l, l'・α However, α: 0.3 to 1.0 The present invention will be explained in detail below.

1 and 2 are composite fancy yarns of the present invention, FIGS. 1a and 2a are partial side views of the composite fancy yarns, and FIGS. 1b and 2b are The structural model diagrams of the core yarn and sheath yarn of the composite fancy yarn are shown respectively. In these figures, A is the core yarn, and the arrow of the yarn A indicates the yarn traveling direction of the core yarn A during false twisting. Further, B and C are sheath yarns, and the arrows of yarns B and C indicate the direction of movement of the sheath yarn at the point of winding with respect to the core yarn A. A is a double wrapping part, B is a quadruple wrapping part,
C indicates a six-fold winding portion, and A, B, and C are formed randomly. Further, the winding direction of the double-wound portion A and the winding direction of the outer layer portion of the quadruple and six-wound portions are reversed.

In FIG. 1, the sheath yarn is wound around the core yarn A, so that the sheath yarn B is first wound around the sheath yarn B, and then the sheath yarn C is wound thereon. FIG. 2 shows a composite fancy yarn in which the sheath yarns B and C are wound around the core yarn A, with the lower winding and upper winding being reversed arbitrarily up and down.

The composite fancy yarn of the present invention is characterized by a highly variable yarn structure. That is, core yarn A
On the other hand, the sheath yarns B and C are twisted in double, quadruple and six-fold states in the twisting region, but this winding form remains in the following state even after untwisting. . That is, the double winding portion remains in a winding form opposite to the twisting direction, and the outermost layer of the quadruple and sixfold winding portions remains in a winding form in the same direction as the twisting direction. Further, the inner layer portions of the four-layer and six-layer multilayer winding portions are wound in alternately reverse directions on the layer portions.

In this way, the two sheath yarns are wrapped around the core yarn separately to form a slab, but the slab form is different from the quadruple winding section formed by only the sheath yarn B or C. , yarns B and C together form a slab,
Both slabs are composed of a six-layered winding part C. In the area where these two slabs are combined, the quadruple wrapping portion and the six wrapping portion are continuous, and the thickness varies within one slab. This multi-layer wrapped structure with a random slab shape and real twist gives the fabric characteristics of a natural and varied appearance and a spun-like and excellent texture. In addition, as shown in Fig. 2, the winding order of the two sheath threads around the core thread can be changed to lower wrapping or upper wrapping by processing means as shown in Fig. 5 a and Fig. 5 b, which will be described later. Therefore, the exposure of the two sheath yarns forming the outer layer portion differs depending on the longitudinal axis direction of the yarn, and the winding order constituting the middle layer of the multilayer winding section can be arbitrary. be.

Due to these characteristics of the yarn structure, when a knitted fabric using the composite fancy yarn obtained in the present invention is dyed in different colors by a combination of two or three types of yarns with different dyeing characteristics, even if it is piece dyed, Regardless of the method, it is possible to obtain a yarn-dyed fabric with distinctive multi-color or multi-tone characteristics, which is rich in color tones ranging from dark to medium and light, in addition to different color effects. Furthermore, a knitted fabric using the composite fancy yarn of the present invention, which is obtained by combining yarns with different gloss characteristics and cross-sectional shape characteristics, has an extremely mild silky linen-like elegant luster.

In the composite fancy yarn of the present invention, it is effective to increase the fineness of the sheath yarn in order to increase the size of the slab as a means of changing the slab form from the viewpoint of the yarn structure. From the viewpoint of processing stability, the appropriate range for the fineness of the sheath yarn is up to twice the thickness of the core yarn based on the total fineness of the two yarns. Furthermore, by increasing the difference in fineness between the two sheath yarns, it is possible to vary the thickness depending on the slab form.

Next, a method for manufacturing the composite fancy yarn of the present invention will be explained. FIG. 3 depicts one embodiment of manufacturing the composite fancy yarn of the present invention.

In FIG. 3, the long fiber yarn 1 serving as the core yarn is
Proceeds to the first heater 7 via the supply roller 4,
Proceed through Twister 8 to Roller 9. Further, it passes through a second heater 10 and a roller 11, and is then wound onto a package 13 on a winding roller 12. In such a series of false twisting processes, yarns 2 and 3, which will become sheath yarns, pass through rollers 5, guides 6, 6', and are merged with yarn 1 between rollers 4 and heater 7. There is. In the above processing, when the feeding speeds of yarn 1 and yarns 2 and 3 are the same or the difference is small, the confluence point of yarn 1 and yarns 2 and 3 hardly changes, and the result of normal false twisting is The yarn has no special characteristics other than being crimped yarn or exhibiting an alternating twist pattern due to the difference in yarn length.

The composite fancy yarn of the present invention can be obtained under the following special conditions. Thread 1
The purpose is to provide a large difference in the feeding speed of yarns 2 and 3. That is, by feeding yarns 2 and 3 at an overfeed rate of at least 30% higher than that of yarn 1, yarn 1 becomes a core yarn and yarns 2 and 3 become sheath yarns. This forms a double-wound portion, a quadruple-wound portion, and a six-wound portion, and the middle quadruple-wound portion and six-wound portion form a slab. Yarn 2 and 3 for yarn 1
The preferred condition for the supply overfeed rate is 30~
The range is 100%. When it is less than 30%, the winding structure becomes loose and the slab tends to move easily.
Moreover, if it exceeds 100%, it is undesirable as it may cause neps to occur due to oversupply or a decrease in operability.

In addition to these requirements, an important point of the present invention is that yarns 2 and 3, which will become sheath yarns, are merged with yarn 1, which will become core yarn, under specific conditions via separate supply guides 6 and 6', respectively. There is a particular thing. By this,
The confluence of yarn 1 and yarns 2 and 3 is twister 8
The false twist given by P′, P′,
The yarns 2 and 3 are wound stably around the core yarn 1 while moving between P''.In other words,
Since yarns 2 and 3 are overfeed and are supplied with almost no tension, the twisting force of false twisting causes each yarn to be wrapped in a single layer around yarn 1, but the confluence point is not reached.
It moves in the direction of P''.As it approaches the position of P'', the distance of the sheath yarn becomes longer than the position of P, and the tension is gradually applied from a state of no tension. At this time,
Since the internal winding angle θ with respect to the yarn 1 is an acute angle, the confluence point of the windings is reversed and moves in the direction of P'. At this time, since the movement of the confluence point is faster than the yarn speed of the yarn 1, the yarn 2 or 3 becomes doubly wrapped around the yarn 1. When the confluence reaches position P', the confluence reverses and moves again in the direction of P'' for the same reason as above.At this time, it is triple-wound to further wrap in addition to the double-wound. Since yarns 2 and 3 each exhibit the above-mentioned winding behavior separately, when both yarns pass the confluence point with yarn 1 and complete winding, the winding of both yarns is completed. A composite fancy yarn is obtained in which the double-wound portion, quadruple-wound portion, and six-wound portion randomly form slabs with uneven thickness. Yarn 2 that becomes a sheath yarn in the twisting area
When the yarns 1 and 3 move through the confluence point and wind around the core yarn 1, when they move in the direction from P' to P'', they are twisted in the same direction as the twisting direction.

On the other hand, when moving in the direction from P'' to P', a twisted winding is formed in the opposite direction to the twisting direction.The yarn that has completed winding passes through the spindle 8 and reaches the untwisting region. The winding form of the yarn is such that the double-wound part is over-untwisted in the opposite direction to the twisting direction, and the outermost layer winding part of quadruple and six-wrap windings is in the same direction as the twisting direction. In addition, the wrapped portions constituting the inner layer of quadruple and six-fold windings form a slab in which twisting patterns in the same direction and in the opposite direction to the twisting direction are alternately inherent in each layer. That's what I do.

In order to more stably form a slab having a random and varied winding configuration in the manufacturing method of the composite fancy yarn of the present invention, the distance (mm) l, l' of the supply guide of the sheath yarn to the core yarn is required. and the confluence point swing width (mm) n, n' of the sheath thread when the sheath thread is wound around the core thread using the supply guides 6, 6' as swing fulcrum points, preferably within a condition range that satisfies the following relational expression.

n, n'=l, l'・α However, α: 0.3 to 1.0 And the confluence width n, with respect to the guide distance
The main factor of α that governs n′ is the feed rate of sheath yarn. The relationship between the sheath threads 2 and 3 that can change the winding form and slab form of the core thread 1 will be described in more detail.

That is, the core yarn 1 and the sheath yarn feeding guide 6,
If the distances l and l' from the sheath threads 2 and 3 are increased, the widths n and n' at the confluence of the sheath threads 2 and 3 become larger, and a long slab is formed. On the other hand, if the distances l and l' are shortened, the swing widths n and n' become narrower, and a short slab is formed. The relationship between the distances l, l' of the sheath yarn feeding guides 6, 6' and the sheath yarn confluence swing widths n, n' also changes depending on the sheath yarn supply overfeed rate, and the sheath yarn swing width at the confluence point The widths n and n' are 0.3 to 1.0 of the distances l and l' between the sheath yarn supply guides 6 and 6' to the core yarn, that is, 30 to 1.0.
It is preferable to set the feed rate of the sheath yarn so that it can swing within a range of 100%. If the width at the confluence of the sheath yarns is less than 0.3 with respect to the guide distance, the winding form will be unstable due to insufficient supply of the sheath yarns and will easily collapse, or even untwisted without forming a slab. It has an alternating twist form. On the other hand, if it exceeds 1.0,
Since the amount of sheath yarn supplied becomes excessive, the swing width becomes large and the yarn cannot be wrapped completely, causing problems in operability such as yarn breakage. Next, it is preferable that the guide distances l and l' of 6 and 6' with respect to the core thread 1 are in the range of 20 to 1000 mm. 20
If it is less than 1000 mm, the slab forming effect will be weakened.
If it exceeds mm, the equipment will be large and require a large space, and workability will be poor. Furthermore, when the guides 6 and 6' of yarns 2 and 3 are installed at different positions with respect to the longitudinal direction of yarn 1, the distance m between these guides 6 and 6' The winding order of windings 2 and 3 can be changed. That is, as shown in FIGS. 3, 4, and 5C, yarn 1 of yarns 2 and 3
If the distance m between the guides 6 and 6' is maintained so that the swaying width confluence points P' and P'' do not overlap with each other, the winding of the sheath threads 2 and 3 on the thread 1 will occur when the thread 3 is wound first. After that, the yarn 2 is wound to form a composite fancy yarn in the wound form shown in FIG.

However, the relationship between the guide distances l and l' with respect to the core thread 1 is as shown in Fig. 5c, and the winding form when processing is performed with the guide position 6' larger than 6 is as shown in Fig. 1b.
In this state, B and C are swapped.

Next, as shown in Fig. 5b, if the distance m between the guides 6 and 6' is made closer, the sway width confluence point P'' of yarn 2 and the swivel width confluence point P' of yarn 3 will overlap with each other. In this overlapping zone, if the confluence point of yarn 2 is at P'' and its vicinity, and the confluence point of yarn 3 is at P' and its vicinity, the winding order in the overlapping zone is is reversed.

In other words, the thread 2 is first wound around, and then the thread 3 is wound thereon. Therefore, yarns 2 and 3 are reversed in the overlap zone, but the resulting composite fancy yarn has a small amount of overlap, so the second
As shown in the figure, there is less chance of mutual reversal.

Furthermore, as shown in FIG. 5a, when the guides 6 and 6' are brought closer together until the distance m becomes almost zero in the longitudinal direction of the yarn 1, the swinging width confluence points P' and P of the yarns 2 and 3 are '' completely overlaps. In such a case, the winding order of each yarn around the core yarn 1 is arbitrarily reversed, and the yarn whose swing width confluence is at the position P'' becomes the lower winding, The yarn at position P' is wound over to form a composite fancy yarn as shown in FIG.

Figure 4 shows another example of obtaining the composite fancy yarn of the present invention, in which yarns 2 and 3, which become sheath yarns, are fed at different feeding speeds to further emphasize the fancy effect. can be done. In addition, in the production method of the present invention, it is particularly effective when the two types of yarns, yarns 2 and 3, which serve as sheath yarns, have a yarn structure in which there are large differences in form, physical properties, fineness, etc. It goes without saying that all the application examples shown in FIG. 5 can be applied to the position of the sheath yarn supply guide in this case as well.

The twister 8 of the present invention is a spindle type (pin bar type) shown in FIGS. 3 to 5.
In addition, there are other devices that have a twisting effect, such as friction type (internal type, external type, 2-axis and 3-axis), nip type (belt type, disk type), and fluid swirl nozzles. All are applicable. The spindle type is advantageous in that it can provide a stable number of false twists, and the friction type and nip type are advantageous in terms of processing speed and productivity.

〔Example〕

Example 1 Long fiber yarn 1, which will be the core yarn, is made of polyester 100 denier and 48 filaments. Yarn 2, which will be the sheath yarn, is made of polyester 50 denier and 24 filaments. Similarly, yarn 3 is polyester 50 denier and 36 filaments with irregular cross section. Processing was carried out under the following conditions using the processing apparatus shown in FIG.

Processing conditions Spindle rotation speed 22.5×10 ⁴ rpm Number of false twists (Z twisting) 2000T/M 1st heater temperature 210℃ 2nd 〃 200℃ Processing feed yarn 1 + 7% 〃 Yarn 2 +70% 〃 Yarn 3 +70% Yarn 2 guide distance l 80cm Yarn 3 〃 l' 10cm Guide for yarns 2 and 3 Distance between 6 and 6' m 30cm Relax feed +10% The composite fancy yarn thus obtained is
A fancy yarn having a yarn form as shown in the figure and having random slabs with uneven length and thickness is obtained.
The final product was a spun-touch fabric with a characteristic hemp-like appearance and texture.

Example 2 Long fiber yarn 1, which becomes the core yarn, is made of polyester 100 denier and 48 filaments; yarn 2, which becomes the sheath yarn, is made of polyester 75 denier and 36 filament cationic dyeable yarn; Using 18 filaments, processing was carried out under the following conditions using the processing apparatus shown in Fig. 3 and the yarn feeding system shown in Fig. 5a.

Processing conditions Twister rotation speed 3800r.pm (circumscribed 3-axis friction) Number of false twists (Z twisting) 1800T/M (actual measurement) 1st heater temperature 190℃ 2nd 190℃ Processing feed yarn 1 +8.5% 〃 Yarn 2 +60% 〃 Yarn 3 +70% Yarn 2 guide distance l 40cm Yarn 3 〃 l' 40cm Guide for yarns 2 and 3 Distance between 6 and 6' m 0 cm Relax feed +12% Thus obtained The composite fancy yarn is the second
The final textile product, which had the yarn form as shown in the figure and was dyed in different colors, had an extremely natural color effect of yarn-dyed tone, a slanted tone, a spun-like texture, and a unique appearance. In addition, the final product was a novel fabric that could not be created using conventional techniques.

Example 3 Long fiber yarn 1, which becomes the core yarn, uses polyester 75 denier and 24 filaments, yarn 2, which becomes the sheath yarn, uses triacetate 50 denier and 18 filaments, and yarn 3 uses 100% polyester 60S spun yarn,
Processing was carried out using the processing apparatus shown in FIG. 3 and the yarn feeding method shown in FIG. 4 under the following conditions.

Processing conditions Spindle rotation speed 15×10 ⁴ rpm Number of false twists (Z twisting) 1700T/M 1st heater temperature 170℃ 2nd 〃 170℃ Processing feed yarn 1 + 8% 〃 Yarn 2 +50% 〃 Yarn 3 +55% Yarn 2 guide distance l 30 cm Yarn 3 guide distance l' 15 cm Guide distance between yarns 2 and 3 6, 6' m 15 cm Relax feed +10% The composite fancy yarn thus obtained is Without any problems, we obtained a knitted fabric rich in the texture of spun yarn and the unique soft and squeaky touch of triacetate, with an excellent appearance and texture that cannot be obtained with a design twisting machine.

Comparative Example 1 Long fiber yarn 1, which becomes the core yarn, is made of polyester 100 denier and 48 filaments, yarn 2, which becomes the sheath yarn, is made of polyester 50 denier and 24 filaments, and yarn 3 is made of polyester 50 denier and 36 filaments with irregular cross section. Using the processing apparatus shown in FIG. 3 (using the same yarn as in Example 1 of the present invention), processing was carried out under the following conditions using the sheath yarn feeding method shown in FIG. 4.

Processing conditions Spindle rotation speed 22.5×10 ⁴ rpm Number of false twists (Z twist) 2200T/M 1st heater temperature 210℃ 2nd heater temperature 200℃ Processing feed rate Yarn 1 + 5% (Yarn feeding tension 15g/strand) Processing feed rate Yarn 2 +20% (Yarn feeding tension 2g/thread) Yarn 3 + 5% (Yam feeding tension 2g/thread) Yarn 2 guide distance l 40cm Yarn 3 guide distance l' 1cm Yarn 2 and Guide number 3 Distance between 6 and 6' m 20cm Relaxation feed +10%
g/thread) When processed under the above conditions, the width at the confluence of the sheath threads 2 and 3 with respect to the core thread 1 is as follows.

Thread 2 confluence point swinging width 5 mm Thread 3 〃 2 mm In the comparative example, due to insufficient overfeed amount of sheath threads 2 and 3, the swing width at the confluence point of threads 2 and 3 with respect to the core yarn was narrow, and Since the movement of the confluence point was slower than the yarn speed of yarn 1, the winding of the sheath yarn did not result in a multilayer winding structure. In other words, the obtained composite processed yarn had an ununtwisted alternately twisted structure with a core-sheath structure, and no slab with a multilayer winding structure was formed.
In order to produce the fancy effect in this comparative example, the composite processed yarn can be rubbed after passing through the spindle before being wound to form a nep, but the form is such that the difference in yarn length between the sheath yarn and the core yarn is They move due to rubbing and form accumulated neps by simply covering the core yarn, and the slabs with double wrapping, quadruple wrapping and sextuple wrapping as obtained by the present invention. The shape of the fancy yarn could not be obtained.

〔Effect of the invention〕

The composite fancy yarn of the present invention changes the yarn composition of three types of yarns, the guide distance of two types of yarns serving as sheath yarns with respect to the core yarn 1, and the distance between the guides, and further provides a sheath yarn. By changing the confluence width with the overfeed rate, it is possible to obtain composite fancy yarns of extremely various forms.
Therefore, by appropriately combining these elements according to the purpose of use in knitted fabrics, it is possible to easily create new composite fancy yarns that have a natural unevenness and excellent texture that could not be obtained with conventional techniques. You can get it.

[Brief explanation of drawings]

Figures 1 and 2 show the composite fancy yarn of the present invention, where Figures 1a and 2a are partial side views, and Figures 1b and 2b are views of the core and sheath yarns. 3 is an explanatory diagram showing an example of the method for manufacturing the composite fancy yarn of the present invention; FIG. 4 is an explanatory diagram showing another example of the method for manufacturing the composite fancy yarn of the present invention; FIG. Figures a, b, and c are explanatory diagrams showing still another example of the composite fancy yarn of the present invention. A: Core thread, B, C: Sheath thread, A: Double winding part,
B: Quadruple winding part, C: Six-fold winding part, 1: Core thread, 2, 3: Sheath thread, 4, 5: Supply roller,
6, 6': Guide, 8: Twister, l, l': Supply guide distance of the sheath yarn to the core yarn, n, n': Confluence swing width when the sheath yarn is wound around the core yarn.

Claims (1)

[Claims] 1. A core yarn A made of long fiber yarns, and at least 2
It is a composite yarn composed of sheath yarns B and C, which are made up of two threads, and the two sheath yarns are wound separately around the core yarn. It has a multi-layered winding structure with heavy windings, and the quadruple windings and six windings intermittently form slabs with random lengths and uneven thicknesses. A composite fancy characterized in that the double-wound part forms a winding form in the opposite direction to the twisting direction, and the outer layer parts of the quadruple-wound part and the six-fold winding part form a winding form in the same direction as the twisting direction. Yarn. 2. When false twisting at least three types of yarns at the same time, yarns B and C, which are to become sheath yarns, are fed to yarn A, which is to become a core yarn, with an overfeed of at least 30%. The yarns are joined together in the twisted area, and the supply guides for the sheath yarns B and C are installed separately at a distance of at least 20 mm from the running yarn line of the core yarn, and the sheath yarns B and C are connected using this supply guide as a swinging point. The supply guide distances l, l' of the sheath yarns B and C with respect to the core yarn A, and the sheath yarns B and C are respectively merged with the core yarn separately.
A method for producing a composite fancy yarn, characterized in that C is wound around a core yarn B within a range that satisfies the following relationship between the confluence point swing widths n and n'. n, n'=l, l'・α However, α: 0.3 to 1.0