JPH01192846A - Polyester cloth of novel feeling effect - Google Patents

Abstract

PURPOSE:To obtain the title cloth suitable for a high-grade dress material of a woman having an excellent touch and a natural feeling such as creak and without any clammy feeling, by using specific polyester filaments treated with an alkali to reduce the weight, having different cross sections of constituting single fibers and so on. CONSTITUTION:100 pts.wt. polyester is blended with preferably 0.1-0.8 pts.wt. stripe-like microvoid forming agent expressed by the formula [R is 3-30C alkyl and the like; M is alkali (earth) metal, etc.] and, e.g., spun at a spinning speed of <=1400m/min and strongly squeezed, then drawn at a draw ratio of <=natural draw ratio, while being heated preferably at a temperature >=70 deg.C higher than the second transition temperature to give yarn having preferably <=12% shrinkage percentage, mutually different cross sections of single fibers and groove-like traces sporadically lied in the surface. The yarn is woven to a cloth and treated with an alkali to reduce the weight to afford the aimed cloth.

Description

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION (Technical Field) The present invention relates to a polyester fabric having a novel hand effect.

(Prior Art) Polyester threads have traditionally been known for their dimensional stability, wash-and-wear properties, and resistance to wrinkles.

I have a waist. It is widely used as a material for clothing because it is easy to process, has high productivity, and is low in cost. However, when you touch the surface, it feels too smooth, giving it a slimy, artificial feel.

In order to overcome the above-mentioned disadvantages, the present inventors proposed in Japanese Patent Application No. 60-220153 (Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 62-85040) that a part of a single fiber is provided with a protuberance orthogonal to the fiber axis. A formed polyester filament yarn was proposed.

However, even with this, there are still aspects that do not fully meet the demands of recent consumers.

(Object of the Invention) The present invention eliminates the above-mentioned drawbacks of polyester fibers and provides a polyester fabric with a new texture made of polyester multifilament threads (flat yarns) whose surface structure has been improved to provide a more preferable feel. It's about doing.

(Structure of the Invention) As a result of intensive research aimed at achieving the above object, the present inventors have found that, in flat yarns that exhibit a slimy or waxy feel, there are having different cross-sectional forms, and having groove-like traces scattered on the surface in both the fiber axis direction and the direction perpendicular thereto, and having some of them intersect;
This is the first time to know that you can create a new texture effect that has never been seen before.

Thus, according to the present invention, there is provided a novel polyester fabric that has been subjected to alkali weight loss treatment, and is characterized in that all or part of its constituent yarns are composed of polyester filament yarns specified below. A polyester fabric having a texture effect is provided.

In any cross section of the polyester filament yarn, the cross-sectional forms of the constituent single fibers are different from each other, and on the other hand, groove-like traces are scattered on the surface both in the fiber axis direction and in the direction crossing this, and the traces are Polyester filament yarn with some parts crossing each other.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be explained in detail with reference to the accompanying drawings.

Figure 1 is a cross-sectional view (electron micrograph: ×400x) of the polyester filament yarns constituting the fabric of the present invention, and the major feature is that the cross-sectional forms of the constituent filaments are different from each other. . On the other hand, FIG. 2 is a side view of the yarn (Z-twisted yarn) 1, in which f1 to f5 of the constituent filaments are
The filaments are wound in a loose or derived state from the normal twisted yarn convergence section 2. Moreover, in the filament groups f1 to f5, groove-like traces shown by 3 are present.

The groove-like traces 3 are formed sequentially in a direction substantially perpendicular to the fiber axis, and in extreme cases, are characteristically formed over substantially the entire circumference of the filament.

Furthermore, in the present invention, groove (streak) traces 4 are also scattered in the direction of the fiber axis of the constituent filaments, and some of these traces are part of the groove traces 3 in the direction substantially perpendicular to the fiber axis. intersects with

FIG. 3 is a partial side view (electron micrograph: x1800x) showing this state.

In the present invention, the presence of constituent filaments with mutually different cross-sectional shapes, especially free or derived filaments, not only improves the texture of the yarn (improves bulk), but also improves the groove-like traces scattered inside the filament 1. 3 and 4 and their intersections significantly improve the surface touch of the filament. In this sense, it is usually sufficient to have about 3 to 10 free or derived filaments, depending on the total number of filaments. On the other hand, although it is ideal to generate groove-like traces on all the single fibers of a multifilament yarn, it is actually quite difficult to do so on all single fibers. However, by applying this to some of the filaments on the outer periphery of the multifilament 1 to the yarn, the surface touch of the fabric is significantly improved.

Next, a method for manufacturing a yarn having such a structure will be explained. The material required is a polyester polymer that has the ability to form fibers and is added with a streaky micropore-forming agent, which is then melt-spun. At this time, the spinning speed is preferably as low as possible, for example, 1400 m/min or less. In terms of degree of orientation, one with a low orientation of about 10×10′ or less is preferable.

Next, while unstretched, it is passed between hard members in a zigzag manner and strongly squeezed (to a tension of 0.2 Lj/de to 1.0 Lj/de).
Og/de). The unstretched yarn is then stretched, but the stretching should not be done until the fibers are completely stretched, and should be kept at a level below the natural stretching ratio of the unstretched yarn.

What is important in this case is that strong heating is applied during stretching. For example, it is desirable that the temperature be at least 70° C. or higher than the secondary transition temperature of undrawn yarn.

By doing so, a polynisdel low-magnification drawn yarn with a low shrinkage rate is obtained.

That is, when an undrawn polyester yarn is normally drawn at a low ratio below its natural drawing ratio, a so-called thick-and-thin yarn is produced, and its major characteristic in terms of physical properties is that it has an extremely high shrinkage rate. In other words, it is common knowledge that Thick and Thin yarn has a shrinkage rate of about 25 to 60%, but here, the shrinkage rate is 1 while being stretched at a low magnification of less than the natural draw ratio.
It is desirable to keep it at a low value of 2% or less. For this purpose, it is necessary to appropriately select appropriate conditions, such as ironing conditions before stretching and temperature conditions during stretching (maintaining at a high temperature).

Next, heat and vibration are applied to the gray fabric made of this yarn using a jet stream to apply lateral pressure deformation to the constituent yarns.

Furthermore, after that, the fabric is subjected to compressive deformation in the longitudinal direction under overfeed to heat set.

As a result, some of the constituent filaments come loose or are derived from the yarn surface, and at the same time, a weakly oriented portion is formed in the free or derived filaments in a direction substantially perpendicular to the fiber axis.

Furthermore, in the present invention, it is essential to subject the above-mentioned fabric to an alkali weight loss treatment. That is, through this alkali weight loss treatment, the weakly oriented portions described above are dissolved and removed, forming groove-like traces 3, and on the other hand, the striped micropore-forming agent added to the polymer is removed, forming grooves (streaks). Form trace 4. It is important to carry out this treatment while forcibly applying kneading or vibration to the gray fabric using, for example, a circular dyeing machine.

The above-mentioned streaky micropore-forming agent may be, for example, represented by the following general formula % [R is an alkyl group having 3 to 30 carbon atoms or an aryl group or alkylaryl group having 7 to 4 degrees of carbon atoms, M is an alkali metal or Indicates an alkaline earth metal. The sulfonic acid salts represented by the following are mentioned, and this may be contained in a range of 0.1 part by weight or more and less than 0.8 parts by weight per 100 parts by weight of polyester.

(Operations and Effects of the Invention) Here, in the present invention, not only the cross-sectional form between the constituent filaments is substantially different as seen in silk, but also the presence of the groove-like traces 3 and 4 makes it possible to create a novel structure that closely resembles silk. A texture effect can be obtained. Surprisingly, this is due to a combination of special spinning and finishing conditions as described below.

(Polymer containing micropore-forming properties + neck point dispersion stretching) By spinning a polyester polymer containing a micropore-forming agent and stretching it so that the stretching points are different between each 11M, the At the same time, differences in molecular orientation and thickness occur, and at the same time, the micropore-forming agent contained in the polymer also appears between the fibers and in the length direction of the fibers, as well as in parts of the cross-section of the book. The result is a drawn yarn that is unevenly distributed.

(Give a photo and relax) Next, this thread is woven into a fabric. Then, a powerful high-temperature, high-pressure jet stream is applied to the fabric, causing it to vibrate and relax. At this time, the fibers are subjected to lateral pressure due to the heat and vibration energy, causing them to be deformed and their orientation to change.

(Compression and heat setting) Next, by forcibly overfeeding this fabric in the length direction and heat setting it at high temperature, each single fiber receives compression in the length direction of the fiber. Due to the orientation difference and the uneven distribution of the porous polymer, different deformations and orientation differences are given at various locations.

(Loss weight while applying forced kneading action and vibration) In this way, different lateral pressures and compressions, uneven distribution of porous polymers, and random orientation differences are applied, and this is forcibly subjected to forced kneading action and vibration. Since the weight is reduced while applying the action, a large amount of weight is lost in areas where there is a lot of micropore forming agent, areas with low orientation, areas that have been subjected to strong lateral pressure, and areas that have been subjected to strong compression. Different weight loss effects are multiplicatively added, and as a result, as shown in Figure 1, the cross-sectional shape becomes so distorted that no two are the same, the sizes vary, and virtually all cross-sectional forms are different. , and the fabric has groove-like traces 3 and 4 as seen in FIGS. 2 and 3.

(Example) 100 parts of dimethyl terephthalate, 6 parts of ethylene glycol
0 parts and 0.06 parts of calcium acetate monohydrate were placed in a stainless steel exchange can, and heated under a nitrogen gas atmosphere for 4 hours. 14
The transesterification reaction was carried out while raising the temperature from 0°C to 230°C and distilling the generated methanol out of the system. Subsequently, 0.06 part of 1-helimethyl phosphate, 0.04 part of antimony trioxide, and 2 of Na 3-hydroxyethoxycarbonyl-benzenesulfonic acid-5-carboxylate were added to the obtained product.
4 parts of 5% ethylene glycol solution and 2 parts of titanium dioxide
1.5 parts of 0% ethylene glycol slurry was added and the polymerization was carried out. Then, the pressure was reduced to 760mH9 for 1 hour (and the pressure was reduced to 280°C for 1 hour and 30 minutes).
The temperature was raised to ℃. Under reduced pressure of 1s89 or less, polymerization temperature 28
Polymerization was continued for 3 hours at 0°C for 4 hours and 30 minutes until the intrinsic viscosity was 0.
．． 640. A polymer with a softening point of 260°C was obtained.

This polymer was then melt-spun at 1100 m/min to give an orientation degree Δn=8xlo-3. Natural stretch ratio -2.5
times.

An undrawn yarn having a secondary transition point of -67°C, a fineness of -230 De, and a number of filaments of -48 was obtained. Next, this was passed through three alumina oxide guides in a zigzag pattern and strongly squeezed with a tension of 0.5 g/d, and then heated to 180°C and stretched at a stretching ratio of 2 to 3 times to obtain approximately 1001)e74Bfil. I made it into a thread.

Then, after twisting 3007/M in the S direction to this yarn,
I used this as a background for plain weaving. Further, this fabric was heated with a boiling jet while applying heat and vibration while applying lateral pressure deformation to the constituent threads, and then heated with dry heat at 180°C for 5 minutes.
The woven fabric was compressed in the longitudinal direction and heat-set with an overfeed of 20%.Furthermore, the liquid was vibrated and the woven fabric was kneaded to reduce the alkali weight by 20%. K9/cm.

It was dyed using a high-pressure jet dyeing machine at 135°C and then set at 170°C for finishing.

Looking at the threads of the resulting woven fabric, as shown in Figure 1, the cross-sectional forms of the single fibers were all different, and at least some of them had an amorphous structure that varied in the length direction as well. Also, as shown in Figures 2 and 3, the surface of the m miscellaneous material has a depth of about 0.2 mm in the length direction of the fibers.
A streak with a width of about 0.4 μ was formed. In addition, it was observed that streaks with a depth of 0.6 μm and a pitch of approximately 3 μm were formed in the cross-sectional direction of the fibers, and a portion of the streaks intersected with the grooves extending in one direction.

Although the texture of the fabric made in this way is polyester, it has surprisingly little of its characteristic slippery feel, and has a moderate ``squeak'' and ``dry touch'' similar to those found in silkworm fabrics. It has become a fabric for high-class women's dresses that has a natural feel with a firmness, firmness, fullness, and a material-like luster.

[Brief explanation of the drawing]

Fig. 1 is a cross-sectional view (electron micrograph; x400x) of the threads constituting the fabric of the present invention, Fig. 2 is a side view of the similar threads,
Figure 3 is an electron micrograph of similar lines: x 1800x)
It is. 2... Twisted yarn convergence part 3... Grooved trace in the direction intersecting the single fiber axis 4... Spiral trace in the single fiber axis direction

Claims (1)

[Scope of Claims] A polyester fabric that has been subjected to alkali weight loss treatment, and has a novel texture characterized in that all or part of its constituent threads are composed of polyester filament threads specified below. Polyester fabric with effect. ￥Polyester filament yarn￥ In any cross section of the yarn, the cross-sectional forms of the constituent single fibers are different from each other, and on the other hand, groove-like traces are scattered on the surface in both the fiber axis direction and the direction crossing this, and these traces are A polyester filament yarn with parts of it intersecting each other.