JP7094475B2 - Penetration enhancer and cosmetics containing it - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to an agent for promoting the penetration of water and / or a water-soluble active ingredient into the skin, which has moisturizing power and is well-adapted to the skin, and a water-based cosmetic containing the same.

Since healthy skin has a normal skin barrier function, it exhibits hydrophobicity and has the property that water and water-soluble active ingredients are difficult to penetrate. Water-soluble molecules having a divalent or higher hydroxyl group, such as glycerin, which is generally used as a moisturizer in cosmetics, are known to have a water-retaining power and thus have a function of increasing skin moisture content. It is not familiar and does not penetrate inside the skin. In addition, it is possible to add a volatile solvent such as ethanol to improve the familiarity with the skin, but there is a safety problem such as increased irritation to the skin. Another possible factor is the effect of intermolecular force due to hydrogen bonds between water molecules.

Conventionally, as a method for permeating the water-soluble active ingredient into the skin, a method using derivatization such as acylation (Patent Document 1) or dispersion of solid content in oil (Patent Document 2) has been used, but the process is It was not general purpose such as complicated.
By the way, polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glyceryl ether is classified as a moisturizer as a cosmetic raw material, and is known to have a function of increasing skin moisture content like glycerin, and in recent years, various preparations as a cosmetic raw material. It is blended in. However, there are no reports on the effects of water and / or water-soluble active ingredients on promoting skin penetration.

Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2011-779772 Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 2014-88453

It is an object of the present invention to provide a permeation promoter that has moisturizing power, improves skin compatibility at the time of application, and further permeates water and / or a water-soluble active ingredient into the skin, and a cosmetic containing the same.

It has been found that the addition of polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glyceryl ether to cosmetics promotes the penetration of water and / or water-soluble active ingredients into the skin, and has completed the present invention.

INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY According to the present invention, it is possible to provide a permeation promoter that has moisturizing power and has good compatibility with the skin at the time of application and allows water and / or a water-soluble active ingredient to permeate the skin, and a cosmetic containing the same. ..

Hereinafter, preferred embodiments of the present invention will be described in detail.
In the following, polyoxyethylene may be abbreviated as POE and polyoxypropylene as POP.
The polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glyceryl ether used in the present invention preferably has an average number of moles of polyoxyethylene groups added of preferably 1 to 100, more preferably 10 to 50, and even more preferably 15 to 40. The average number of moles of the oxypropylene group added is preferably 1 to 50, more preferably 10 to 50, and even more preferably 15 to 40. Further, the order of addition of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide is not particularly limited, and the ratio of the oxyethylene group to the total of the oxyethylene group and the oxypropylene group is also not particularly limited.

If the average number of moles of oxyethylene groups added is 0, it becomes difficult to add them to water-based cosmetics, and if it exceeds 100, stickiness may be felt. If the average number of moles of the oxypropylene group added is 0, it may be difficult to have the permeability of the surfactant into the skin, and if it exceeds 50, it may be difficult to incorporate the surfactant into water-based cosmetics.
Further, in the polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glyceryl ether of the present invention, the oxyethylene group and the oxypropylene group may be added in a block shape or randomly, but they must be added in a block shape. Is preferable. Further, polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glyceryl ether can also be produced by a known method. Specifically, ethylene oxide and propylene oxide are addition-polymerized at 130 to 160 ° C. with glycerin under an alkali catalyst. Obtained at.

The polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glyceryl ether of the present invention may be a commercially available product, for example, "NIKKOL SG-G2424" (manufactured by Nikko Chemicals), "Unilube 50TG-32" (manufactured by NOF Corporation), "Adeka Carpole GH-200". "(Made by ADEKA) and" New Pole GEP-2800 "(manufactured by Sanyo Chemical Industries, Ltd.) can be used.
The blending amount of the polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glyceryl ether of the present invention is preferably 5 to 50% by mass, more preferably 10 to 40% by mass, and further preferably 15 to 30% by mass in the total amount of the cosmetic. Within such a range, it is possible to exert the effect of promoting the penetration of water and the water-soluble active ingredient into the skin.

Examples of the water-soluble active ingredient used in the present invention include uric acid, keratin-degrading peptide, hydrolyzed keratin, collagen, fish-derived collagen, atelocollagen, gelatin, elastin, collagen-degrading peptide, hydrolyzed collagen, hydroxypropylammonium chloride hydrolyzed collagen, and the like. Elastin-degrading peptide, conchiolin-degrading peptide, hydrolyzed conchiolin, silk proteolytic peptide, hydrolyzed silk, lauroyl-hydrolyzed silk sodium, soybean proteolytic peptide, wheat protein, wheat proteolytic peptide, hydrolyzed wheat protein, casein-degrading peptide, etc. Protein peptides and derivatives thereof; acylated peptides such as palmitoyl oligopeptide, palmitoyl pentapeptide, palmitoyl tetrapeptide; betaine (trimethylglycine), proline, hydroxyproline, arginine, lysine, serine, glycine, alanine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, β-alanine, threonine, glutamic acid, glutamine, asparagine, aspartic acid, cysteine, cystine, methionine, leucine, isoleucine, valine, tryptophan, histidine, taurine, γ-aminobutyric acid, γ-amino-β-hydroxybutyric acid, carnitine, carnosin , Creatine and other amino acids and salts and derivatives thereof; 18-methyleicosate, branched fatty acid (12-31) salt, lanolin fatty acid salt, ethylsulfate 18-methyleicosanoate aminopropylethyldimethylammonium, ethylsulfate length Chain-branched fatty acids (12-31) Aminopropyl ethyldimethylammonium, lanolin fatty acid ethyl sulfate Aminopropylethyldimethylammonium and other 18-methyleicosanoic acid and anteiso fatty acid derivatives; water-soluble sphingolipids such as sugar ceramide; ascorbic acid and its sodium Vitamin Cs such as salts; ascorbic acid alkyl ethers such as ethyl ether ascorbic acid, ascorbic acid glucosides such as ascorbic acid-2-glucoside and their fatty acid esters, ascorbic acid phosphate sodium salts and ascorbic acid phosphate ester magnesium Ascorbic acid derivatives such as salt, palmitoyl ascorbic acid phosphate sodium salt, ascorbic acid phosphate ester salt such as tocopheryl phosphate ascorbyl; thiamine hydrochloride, thiamine sulfate, riboflavin, riboflavin acetate, pyridoxin hydrochloride, flavin adenindi Vitamins such as nucleotides, cyanocobalamines, folic acids, nicotinic acids, nicotinic acid amides, vitamin B groups such as choliners; other vitamins such as pantothenic acid, panthenylethyl ether, pantenol, biotin; tocopherol phosphate esters, etc. Water-soluble vitamin Es; hydroquinone glycosides such as albutin and α-albutin and their esters; Acids and derivatives thereof, glycyrrhetinic acid derivatives, salicylic acid derivatives, hinokithiol, guaiazulene, allantin, indomethacin, caffeine, α-lipoic acid, rutin and glycoside derivatives; hesperidin and glycoside derivatives; Nishikawayanagi extract, etc. Various plant extracts and the like can be mentioned. In particular, among these water-soluble active ingredients, amino acids and salts thereof and derivatives, vitamin Cs such as ascorbic acid and salts such as sodium thereof, uric acid and the like are preferable.

Examples of the dosage form of the cosmetic of the present invention include, but are not limited to, water-based lotions, gels, milks, creams and the like.
Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail with reference to examples of the present invention, but the present invention is not limited thereto.
In the following examples, the description of the blending amount means mass% unless otherwise specified.

<Example 1>
Preparation of Polyoxyethylene Polyoxypropylene Glyceryl Ether The compounds A1 to A7 were obtained according to the number of moles of oxyethylene group and oxypropylene group shown in Table 1 below.

<Example 2>
1. 1. Preparation of cosmetics Uniform cosmetics were prepared by stirring and mixing each component shown in Tables 2 and 3 at room temperature for 30 minutes using a paddle mixer.

2. 2. Evaluation of cosmetics The following three items were evaluated respectively.
(1) Penetration promoting effect The upper arms of 20 panelists were washed with a detergent and then acclimated for 15 minutes (22 ° C., humidity 50%). Using Epsilon (manufactured by Biox), the permittivity (moisture content) of the upper arm was obtained in the uncoated state. The prepared cosmetic was dropped on the upper arm from the top of the cotton and left for 1 minute while being pressed by hand from the top of the cotton. The applied water-based cosmetics were removed with a cotton soaked in water, pressed with a Kimwipe for 1 minute, and the dielectric constant was obtained again in a completely dry state. The permeation promoting effect was evaluated using a relative value (%) with the dielectric constant when not coated as 100%.

(Evaluation criteria)
A: 120% or more B: 110% or more and less than 120% C: 100% or more and less than 110% D: 100% or less

(2) Familiarity with the skin We evaluated the familiarity with the skin when water-based cosmetics were applied to 20 panelists. The evaluation was judged according to the following criteria.
(Evaluation criteria)
A: Everyone felt that it was familiar to the skin.
B: One or more and two or less people felt unfamiliar with the skin.
C: Two or more and three or less people felt unfamiliar with their skin.
D: Three or more people felt unfamiliar with their skin.

(3) Stability After preparing each cosmetic, each sample was placed in a glass bottle and allowed to stand in a constant temperature bath at 5 ° C., and the appearance after 24 hours was visually confirmed with an optical microscope. The evaluation was judged according to the following criteria.
(Evaluation criteria)
A: There was no change in the appearance.
B: A small amount of precipitate is formed at 5 ° C., and when the temperature is returned to room temperature, the precipitate disappears and returns to a uniform and normal appearance.
C: A considerable amount of precipitate was formed at 5 ° C., and when the temperature was returned to room temperature, the precipitate disappeared and returned to a uniform and normal appearance.
D: At 5 ° C, a precipitate is formed or a two-layer separation state is reached.

3. 3. Results From the results in Tables 2 and 3, it was possible to obtain good results in each of the evaluations of the penetration promoting effect, the skin familiarity, and the stability of the inventions 1 to 5. On the other hand, Comparative Product 1 containing compound A6 to which only 20 mol of ethylene oxide groups were added was a cosmetic product having a poor penetration promoting effect and poor skin compatibility. Further, the comparative product 2 containing the compound A7 to which only 20 mol of the propylene oxide group was added became a cleansing cosmetic having a poor penetration promoting effect and a problem in stability as in the comparative product 1. Further, the comparative product 3 containing glycerin instead of the polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glyceryl ether of the present invention has good stability but is inferior in penetration promoting effect and skin compatibility.

<Example 3>
Lotion 1. PPG-6 decyltetradeceth-30 0.5 (% by mass)
2. 2. PEG-6, PEG-32 * 4.0
3. 3. Dipropylene glycol 3.0
4. Preservatives Appropriate amount 5. Glycerin 2.0
6. POP (40) POE (20) glyceryl ether 3.0
7. Alanine 0.1
8. Serine 0.1
9. Suitable amount of pH regulator 10. Chelating agent Appropriate amount 11. Purified water residue preparation method: 1-4 is heated and dissolved at 80 ° C, and 5-11 is stirred and uniformly dissolved at room temperature. Add 5-11 while stirring 1-4, stir and mix, and cool.
Results: All of the obtained lotions were cosmetics having an excellent penetration promoting effect and having a good affinity with the skin.
* PEG-6, PEG-32: Product name PEG1500 (manufactured by Dai-ichi Kogyo Seiyaku Co., Ltd.)

<Example 4>
Gel 1. Hydrogenated lecithin 20.0 (% by mass)
2.1,3-butylene glycol 5.0
3. 3. PEG-32 2.0
4. Glycerin 10.0
5. POP (15) POE (15) glyceryl ether 5.0
6. Xanthan gum 0.08
7. Purified water 3.92
8. Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.08
9. Purified water 3.02
10. (Acrylate / Alkyl Acrylate (C10-30)) Cross Polymer 0.3
11. Purified water 14.7
12. Arginine 0.3
13. Residual of purified water 14. Diphenyldimethicone 1.0
15. Cyclopentasiloxane 4.0
Preparation method: Ingredients 6-7 and 8-9 are swelled in advance. Ingredients 1-13 and 14-15 are heated and dissolved. Add 14-15 to 1-13 at 80 ° C., mix and treat at 7000 rpm for 7 minutes with a homomixer. Cool to room temperature and finish.
Result: The obtained gel was a cosmetic product having an excellent penetration promoting effect and having a good affinity with the skin.

<Example 5>
Milk 1. Sorbitan stearate 0.5
2. 2. Cetyl palmitate 0.5
3. 3. Bacil alcohol 0.2
4. Cetyl ethylcaproate 6.0
5. Olefin oligomer 2.0
6. Jojoba seed oil 1.0
7. Cyclopentasiloxane 4.0
8. Dimethicone 2.0
9. Tocopherol 0.2
10. NIKKOL Nicomurus LH * 3.0
11. Glycerin 5.0
12.1,3-butylene glycol 4.0
13. Xanthan gum 0.2
14. POP (40) POE (20) glyceryl ether 5.0
15. Suitable amount of pH regulator 16. Chelating agent Appropriate amount 17. Preservatives Appropriate amount 18. Purified water residue preparation method: Ingredients 1-9 and 10-18 are heated to 80 ° C., respectively. While maintaining 80 ° C., component 1-9 is gradually added to the place where component 10-18 is treated with a homomixer to emulsify. Cool to 35 ° C with stirring.
Result: The obtained milk was a cosmetic product having an excellent penetration promoting effect and having a good affinity with the skin.
* Product name "NIKKOL Nicomurus LH": Glycerin, hydrogenated lecithin, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose stearoxy ether, squalane, stearoylmethyl taurine Na (manufactured by Nikko Chemicals)

The present invention relates to a permeation enhancer having a moisturizing power and having an effect of promoting permeation of water and / or a water-soluble active ingredient into the skin, and a cosmetic containing the same.

Claims (2)

Polyoxyethylene A penetration enhancer containing polyoxypropylene glyceryl ether as a main component and promoting the penetration of a water-soluble active ingredient (the water-soluble active ingredient does not contain arbutin) in the presence of water .
A penetration enhancer, wherein the water-soluble active ingredient is at least one selected from amino acids and salts thereof and derivatives . The first aspect of claim 1, wherein the polyoxyethylene polyoxypropylene glyceryl ether has an average number of added moles of polyoxyethylene groups of 1 to 100 and an average number of added moles of oxypropylene groups of 1 to 50. A penetration enhancer that promotes the penetration of water-soluble active ingredients (water-soluble active ingredients do not contain albutin) in the presence of water.