JP7021965B2 - Water-in-oil emulsification composition - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to a water-in-oil emulsified composition that improves the firmness and elasticity of the skin, spreads well, is not sticky, and has an excellent feel in use.

The skin causes stains, wrinkles, sagging, pigmentation, etc. due to internal factors such as aging and stress, and external factors such as ultraviolet rays and dry air. Among them, morphological changes such as wrinkles and sagging greatly affect the impression of appearance, so many people want to improve it. Many drugs have been proposed to prevent and improve these wrinkles and sagging. Under these circumstances, nicotinamide is used in cosmetics having a high safety and an anti-aging effect on the skin (see, for example, Patent Document 1).

However, it is known that when a large amount of nicotinamide is contained, there is an undesired feeling of use such as stickiness. Here, since the water-in-oil emulsion has an external phase composed of an oily component, it is used as a means for suppressing stickiness of a water-soluble drug such as ascorbic acid 2-glucoside (see, for example, Patent Document 2), and nicotin. It is also known that acid amides are blended in water-in-oil emulsions (see, for example, Patent Documents 3 to 5).

Japanese Unexamined Patent Publication No. 10-130135 JP-A-2017-078028 Special Table 2009-536965 Gazette Special Table 2009-536966 Gazette JP-A-2015-061889

However, in Patent Documents 3 to 5, there is a problem in the uniformity of spreading and spreading because the aqueous phase separates when applied to the skin. Also, no mention is made of stickiness. That is, there is no known cosmetic that contains nicotinamide in a high concentration, spreads well, is not sticky, and has an excellent feel in use.

In view of such circumstances, the present inventor has conducted diligent research to solve the above problems, and as a result, even when nicotinamide is contained in a high concentration, polyether silicone, polyethylene glycol dipolyhydroxystearate, and silicone are used. It has been found that by using an oil-containing water-emulsified composition in oil, stickiness during use due to nicotinamide is suppressed and excellent spreadability during application is achieved. Further, the present invention was completed by finding that the back skin has an excellent firmness.

That is, in the present invention, the following components (A) to (D):
(A) Nicotinamide 3-10% by mass
(B) Polyether-modified silicone (C) Polyethylene glycol dipolyhydroxystearate (D) Silicone oil (E) A water-in-oil emulsifying composition containing 50% by mass or more of water.
Further, it is a water-in-oil emulsified composition in which the component (B) may be PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone.

The water-in-oil emulsified composition of the present invention is excellent not only in the firmness of the back skin but also in the spread and spread and the non-sticky feel. In addition, it is useful as an anti-aging cosmetic because it can be expected to improve the elasticity of the skin and prevent / improve morphological changes of aging such as wrinkles and sagging by long-term use.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail. In addition, in this specification, "-" shall mean the range including the numerical values before and after it. In addition, the numerical value expressed in% is a value based on the mass unless otherwise specified.

Component (A): Nicotinamide The component (A) nicotinic acid amide used in the present invention is an amide of nicotinic acid (vitamin B3 / niacin). Nicotinamide is a water-soluble vitamin, which is a known substance that is one of the B vitamins, and can be extracted from natural products (rice bran, etc.) or synthesized by a known method. Specifically, those listed in the 17th revised Japanese Pharmacopoeia, etc. can be used.

The content of the component (A) in the present invention is 3 to 10% by mass (hereinafter, simply abbreviated as "%") in the composition in terms of the effect of improving rough skin and firmness of the skin, and is preferable. It is 4 to 8%. If it is less than 3%, the skin effect is insufficient, and if it exceeds 10%, the effect does not increase.

Component (B): Polyether-modified Silicone The component (B) polyether-modified silicone used in the present invention is a copolymer having at least an organopolysiloxane group and a hydrophilic group having a plurality of ether structures. Even if it is a graft copolymer having an organopolysilokinsan group as a main chain and having the hydrophilic group in a side chain, a linear block copolymer in which the organopolysiloxane group and the hydrophilic group are alternately bonded. However, the component (B) of the present application does not contain a crosslinked polymer. The organopolysiloxane group may be linear or may have a branched structure, and the hydrophilic group is not particularly limited, but a polyoxyalkylene group or a polyglyceryl group can be used. Further, the component (B) may be a covariant organic group such as an alkyl group or a fluorine-substituted alkyl group.

The component (B) is not particularly limited, but specifically, among the graft copolymer types, those having a linear structure organopolysiloxane group as a main chain and a polyoxyalkylene group as a side chain are specifically selected. , Polyoxyalkylene-modified organopolysiloxane (commercially available, for example, PEG10-dimethicone "KF-6017" manufactured by Shinetsu Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.), polyoxyalkylene-alkyl co-modified organopolysiloxane (commercially available, for example, lauryl PEG / PPG-18 / 18 methicone "5200 Formation Aid" manufactured by Toray Dow Corning Co., Ltd.) and the like can be mentioned. Further, as a compound having an organopolysiloxane group having a branched structure as a main chain and grafted with a polyoxyalkylene group (silicone branched polyether-modified silicone), specifically, PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone (commercially available). As products, for example, "KF-6028" manufactured by Shinetsu Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.), lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone (commercially available, for example, "KF-6038" manufactured by Shinetsu Chemical Industry Co., Ltd.), cetyl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxy. Examples thereof include ethyldimethicone.

Specific examples of the block copolymer type include polyoxyethylene / butylene / dimethylpolysiloxane copolymer (commercially available, for example, “FZ-2250” manufactured by Toray Dow Corning Co., Ltd.) and polyoxyethylene / poly. Examples thereof include oxypropylene / butylene / dimethylpolysiloxane copolymer (commercially available products: “FZ-2233” manufactured by Toray Dow Corning Co., Ltd., “SILWET 236-L” manufactured by Nippon Unicar Co., Ltd.).

As the component (B), one kind or two or more kinds can be used including these examples, but among these, the polyoxyalkylene chain is preferable as the hydrophilic group, and the polyoxyethylene chain and the degree of polymerization thereof are particularly preferable. A polyether-modified silicone having a value of 7 to 11 is particularly preferable. Further, from the viewpoint of stability of the composition, a silicone-branched type polyether-modified silicone is more preferable. The HLB of the component (B) is preferably 1 to 7, more preferably 2.5 to 5.

The content of the component (B) in the present invention is preferably 0.1% to 5%, more preferably 0.25 to 3% in the composition. When the component (B) is in this range, a more uniform spread and non-sticky substance can be obtained, which is preferable.

Component (C): Polyethylene Glycol Dipolyhydroxystearate Component (C) Polyethylene Glycol Dipolyhydroxystearate used in the present invention is a diester of polyethylene glycol with polyhydroxystearic acid. In the component (C), the weight average molecular weight of poly (12-hydroxystearic acid), which is a hydrophobic group portion, is preferably 1000 to 4000 from the viewpoint of good handling at the time of preparation, emulsifying ability, alleviation of stickiness, and the like. The weight average molecular weight of polyethylene glycol as the hydrophilic group portion is preferably 400 to 6000. A GPC measuring device was used to calculate the weight average molecular weight. As a preferable compound of the component (C), the INCI name is listed as PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, and as a commercial product of such a component (C), "CITHROLL DPHS" (Croda International Co., Ltd.) Made) and the like.

The content of the component (C) in the present invention is preferably 0.1% to 5%, more preferably 0.2 to 3% in the composition. When the component (C) is in this range, a more uniform spread and non-sticky substance can be obtained, which is preferable.

The component (D) silicone oil used in the present invention is not particularly limited, but is preferably liquid at 25 ° C., octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, and the like. Examples thereof include octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, methyltrimethicone, caprylyltrimethicone, dimethylpolysiloxane, and methylphenylpolysiloxane, and one or more of these can be used.

The content of the component (D) in the present invention is preferably 3 to 40%, more preferably 5 to 25% in the composition. When the component (D) is within this range, it is preferable because it is excellent in uniformity and non-stickiness at the time of application.

The component (E) used in the present invention contains 50% or more of water. The water is not particularly limited as long as it is usually used for cosmetics and the like, and for example, one or two or more kinds of purified water, steam distilled water of plants and the like can be arbitrarily selected and used.

The water-in-oil emulsified composition of the present invention contains the above-mentioned components (A) to (E) to improve the firmness and elasticity of the skin and prevent / improve morphological changes of aging such as wrinkles and sagging. At the same time, it can be applied evenly to the skin, and it becomes possible to obtain a water-in-oil emulsified composition that is not sticky and has an excellent feeling in use.

The method for producing a water-in-oil emulsification composition of the present invention can be produced without particular limitation as long as it is a known emulsification method. To exemplify a preferable one, an aqueous component containing the components (A) and (E) is prepared in advance, and this is added and mixed with the oily components of the components (B) to (D) to stabilize over time. It is possible to obtain an excellent water-in-oil emulsification composition.

In the water-in-oil emulsified composition of the present invention, in addition to the above essential components, optional components contained in ordinary cosmetics as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired, that is, lower alcohols and polyhydric alcohols, and further. Aqueous components other than these, oil agents other than component (D), powders, water-soluble polymers, film-forming agents, surfactants other than components (B) and (C), oil-soluble gelling agents, organically modified clay minerals. , Resins, colorants, UV absorbers, preservatives, antibacterial agents, fragrances, antioxidants, pH adjusters, chelating agents, beauty ingredients and the like.

The water-in-oil emulsified composition of the present invention can be used in various dosage forms in combination with other components. Specifically, it can be carried out in various dosage forms such as liquid, gel, paste, cream and solid.

The water-in-oil emulsified composition of the present invention can be used as a cosmetic for various purposes. For example, skin care cosmetics such as lotion, milky lotion, cream, beauty liquid, massage fee, pack fee, hand cream, body lotion, body cream, sunscreen, foundation, eye shadow, eye liner, mascara, eyebrow, concealer, lipstick. , Makeup cosmetics such as lip cream, treatments, hair creams, and other hair cosmetics can be exemplified. Examples of the method of use include a method of using it with a hand, a finger, and cotton, and a method of impregnating it with a non-woven fabric or the like.

The water-in-oil emulsified composition of the present invention can also be used as an external preparation for skin. For example, an external liquid agent, an external gel agent, a cream agent, an ointment agent, a liniment agent, a lotion agent, a hap agent, a plaster agent, a spray agent, an aerosol agent and the like can be mentioned. Further, the method of use thereof can be mentioned in the same manner as the above-mentioned cosmetics.

The present invention will be described in more detail below with reference to examples, but the present invention is not limited thereto. Unless otherwise specified, the content is indicated by mass% with respect to the system in which the component is contained.

Examples 1 to 13 and Comparative Examples 1 to 7: Emulsion The emulsions of the formulations shown in Table 1 below were prepared and evaluated for the firmness of the skin, the non-stickiness, and the uniform spreading and spreading by the following methods. The results are also shown in Table 1.

(Production method)
A: Ingredients 2 to 13 are uniformly mixed.
B: Ingredients 1, 14 to 17 are uniformly mixed.
C: B was added to A and emulsified to obtain a water-in-oil emulsified emulsion.

(Evaluation item)
stomach. Skin firmness b. Non-sticky c. Uniform spread

(Evaluation methods)
We selected 10 specialized panels that were trained in sensory evaluation by women in their 20s and 40s and could be evaluated according to certain criteria. For each sample, the non-stickiness, uniform spread and spread, and the firmness of the skin after application, which the specialized panel feels when applied to the skin, are evaluated on a 5-point scale by the following absolute evaluation and scored for each sample. The average value was calculated from the total score of all the panels, and the judgment was made according to the following four-step criteria.

(B. Evaluation of skin firmness)
Absolute evaluation criteria (score): (evaluation)
5 points: I feel that my skin is very firm 4 points: I feel that my skin is firm 3 points: I feel that my skin is slightly firm 2: I do not feel that my skin is very firm 1 Point: I do not feel that the skin is firm. 4-step judgment criteria (judgment): (Average score)
◎: Exceeding 4 points: Very good ○: Exceeding 3 points and 4 points or less: Good △: Exceeding 2 points and 3 points or less: Slightly defective ×: 2 points or less: Defect

(B. Evaluation of non-stickiness)
Absolute evaluation criteria (score): (evaluation)
5 points: No stickiness 4 points: Almost no stickiness 3 points: Slightly sticky 2 points: Very sticky 1 point: Very sticky 4 grade criteria (judgment): (Average score)
◎: Exceeding 4 points: Very good ○: Exceeding 3 points and 4 points or less: Good △: Exceeding 2 points and 3 points or less: Slightly defective ×: 2 points or less: Defect

(C. Evaluation of uniform elongation)
Absolute evaluation criteria (score): (evaluation)
5 points: Stretch spread is uniform 4 points: Stretch spread is almost uniform 3 points: Stretch spread is slightly non-uniform 2 points: Stretch spread is non-uniform 1 point: Stretch spread is very non-uniform 4-step judgment criteria (judgment): (average score)
◎: More than 4 points: No stimulus ○: More than 3 points, 4 points or less: Almost no stimulus △: More than 2 points, 3 points or less: General people feel almost no stimulus ×: 2 points or less: Even ordinary people may feel irritation

As is clear from the results in Table 1, the emulsions of Examples 1 to 13 are superior to the emulsions of Comparative Examples 1 to 7 in all of the firmness of the skin, the non-stickiness, and the uniform spreading and spreading. there were.
On the other hand, in Comparative Example 1 in which the content of the component (A) was 1%, the firmness of the skin could not be sufficiently felt. Further, in Comparative Example 2 in which the content of the component (A) was 15%, the stickiness tended to increase and the spread and spread tended to be non-uniform. Further, Comparative Examples 3, 4, and 5 in which polyglycerin-10 pentaisostearate, glyceryl stearate, and sorbitan sesquioleate, which have low HLB surface activity, were used instead of the component (B), were non-sticky and uniform. I was not satisfied with the items of expansion and expansion. Further, in Comparative Example 6 containing no component (C), a satisfactory one could not be obtained in uniform spreading and spreading. Further, in Comparative Example 7 in which liquid paraffin was used instead of the component (D), a satisfactory one could not be obtained in uniform spreading and spreading.

Example 14: Skin care cream (ingredient) (%)
1. 1. Dimethylpolysiloxane (Note 5) 5.0
2. 2. Liquid paraffin 2.0
3. 3. Squalan 2.0
4. Glyceryl tri2-ethylhexanoate 1.0
5. Cetyl ethylcaproate 1.0
6. Astaxanthin 0.005
7. Tocopherol 0.05
8. Ceramide 2 0.01
9. PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone (Note 1) 2.0
10. Dipolyhydroxystearate PEG-30 2.0
11. Niacinamide 5.0
12. Monohydrogen phosphate 0.5
13. Sodium dihydrogen phosphate 0.05
14. Disodium edetate 0.1
15. Remaining amount of purified water 16. Glycerin 5.0
17.1,3-butylene glycol 15.0
18. Ethanol 2.0
19. Polyacrylic acid phosphorylcholine glycol (Note 8) 0.1
(Note 8) LIPIDURE-HM-600 (NOF)

(Production method)
(1) Dissolve components 1 to 10 uniformly.
(2) After the components 11 to 19 are mixed and dissolved, they are added to (1) at room temperature and emulsified.
(3) The container was filled to obtain a skin care cream.
(result)
The skin care cream of Example 14 was excellent in all of the firmness, stickiness, moistness, and uniform spreading and spreading of the skin.

Example 15: Sunscreen (ingredient) (%)
1. 1. Hydrogen Dimethicone Treated Fine Particle Zinc Oxide (30nm) 2.0
2. 2. Dimethylpolysiloxane treated fine particles Titanium oxide (25 nm) 4.0
3. 3. Bird (caprylic capric acid) glyceryl 3.0
4. Glyceryl tri2-ethylhexanoate 3.0
5. Octyl palmitate 3.0
6. 2-Ethylhexyl paramethoxycinnamate 7.0
7. Diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate 1.0
8. Dimethicodiethylbenzalmaronate 1.0
9. Octilt Azone 0.5
10. Decamethylcyclopentasiloxane 5.0
11. Lauryl PEG / PPG-18 / 18 methicone (Note 3) 2.0
12. Dipolyhydroxystearate PEG-30 2.0
13. Niacinamide 4.0
14. Lactic acid 0.05
15. Sodium lactate 0.1
16. Remaining amount of purified water 17. Tinosorb® M (Note 9) 2.0
18. Dipropylene glycol 5.0
19. Ethanol 5.0
20. Appropriate amount of orange oil (Note 9) Made by BASF

(Production method)
(1) Ingredients 1 to 4 are uniformly dispersed by a roller.
(2) After the components 5 to 12 are dissolved, (1) is added and uniformly mixed and dissolved.
(3) After the components 13 to 19 are mixed and dissolved, they are added to (2) at room temperature and emulsified.
(4) Ingredient 20 was added to and mixed with (3) and filled in a container to obtain a sunscreen.
(result)
The sunscreen of Example 15 was excellent in all of the firmness, stickiness, moistness, and uniform spreading and spreading of the skin.

Example 16: Foundation (ingredient) (%)
1. 1. Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone (Note 4) 2.0
2. 2. PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone (Note 1) 1.0
3. 3. Dimethylpolysiloxane (Note 5) 3.0
4. Isopropyltriisostearoyl titanate treated red iron oxide 0.6
5. Isopropyltriisostearoyl titanate-treated iron oxide 1.8
6. Isopropyltriisostearoyl titanate-treated black iron oxide 0.2
7. Octylsilylated Titanium Oxide 5.0
8. Metal soap treatment talc 5.0
9 Polymethylsilsesquioxane (Note 10) 2.0
10. 2-Ethylhexyl paramethoxycinnamate 5.0
11. Dimethylstearyl ammonium hectorite 1.5
12. Benzyldimethylstearylammonium hectorite 0.5
13. Dipolyhydroxystearate PEG-30 2.0
14. Linolenic acid 0.01
15. Soybean phospholipid 0.5
16. Purified water remaining amount 17.1,3-butylene glycol 15.0
18. Pentylene glycol 1.0
19. Acetylsalicylic acid 0.1
20. Sodium chloride 0.5
21. Perilla extract 0.1
22. Niacinamide 5.0
23. Appropriate amount of fragrance (Note 10) Tospearl 2000B (Momentive)

(Production method)
(1) Ingredients 1 to 15 are uniformly dispersed by a roller.
(2) Ingredients 16 to 22 are uniformly mixed.
(3) Add (2) to (1) and emulsify.
(4) Ingredient 23 was added to (5) to obtain a foundation filled in a container.
(result)
The foundation of Example 16 was excellent in all of the firmness, stickiness, moistness, and uniform spreading and spreading of the skin.

Claims (2)

The following components (A) to ( E ):
(A) Nicotinamide 3-10% by mass
(B) Polyether-modified silicone (C) Polyethylene glycol dipolyhydroxystearate (D) Silicone oil (E) Water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic or skin external preparation containing 50% by mass or more of water. The water-in-oil emulsified cosmetic or skin external preparation according to claim 1, wherein the component (B) is PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone.