JP6991764B2 - Compositions for treating keratinous substances, including biosurfactants, basic amino acids, and alpha-hydroxy acids. - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to compositions comprising at least one biosurfactant, at least one basic amino acid, and at least one α-hydroxy acid, in particular a cosmetic composition for the skin, and cosmetic methods using the same.

Alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) are commonly used in the cosmetics and dermatology fields as exfoliating agents / peeling agents. AHA activates proteases in the stratum corneum to promote the degradation of corneodesmosomes and promote collagen formation in the dermis. This then leads to desquamation of the skin, which improves the condition of the skin. AHA has also been reported to reduce facial pores and darkening of pores, presumably by targeting enzyme activation and protein functions involved in sebum production.

When used in aesthetic salons, AHA can be used in relatively high concentrations, eg, in the range of 10% to 30%. On the other hand, AHA in OTC products is restricted to lower concentrations by regulation.

However, it is difficult to fully obtain the above effects of α-hydroxy acids at lower concentrations, especially with products that are applied for a short period of time, such as detergents.

Therefore, an object of the present invention is a composition for treating keratin substances, especially skin, which increases the penetration of α-hydroxy acids even when they are formulated at low concentrations. This is to provide a composition in which the effect of α-hydroxy acid is improved.

The above purpose is
(a) At least one biosurfactant,
(b) At least one basic amino acid and
(c) At least one α-hydroxy acid and
Can be achieved with a composition comprising.

(a) Biosurfactants are saturated or unsaturated linear or branched hydrocarbon groups, preferably C ₅ to C ₃₀ alkyl, alkenyl or alkynyl groups, more preferably C ₈ to C ₂₀ alkyl groups, further. More preferably, it may contain a hydrocarbon group consisting of C ₁₀ to C ₁₅ alkyl groups, and at least one carboxyl group, preferably two or more carboxyl groups, and more preferably two carboxyl groups.

(a) The biosurfactant may have a lactone ring, preferably gamma-butyrolactone.

(a) The biosurfactant may be selected from spicrysporic acid, its derivatives, and salts of spicysporic acid and its derivatives.

The amount of (a) biosurfactant in the composition according to the present invention is 0.01 to 20% by mass, preferably 0.1 to 10% by mass, and more preferably 1 to 8% by mass with respect to the total mass of the composition. May be good.

(b) The basic amino acid may be selected from arginine, lysine, histidine, ornithine, and mixtures thereof, preferably arginine.

The amount of (b) basic amino acid according to the present invention may be 0.1 to 30% by mass, preferably 1 to 20% by mass, and more preferably 5 to 10% by mass with respect to the total mass of the composition.

(c) α-Hydroxyic acid is derived from glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid and gluconic acid and mixtures thereof, preferably glycolic acid and citric acid and mixtures thereof, more preferably glycolic acid. You may choose.

The amount of (c) α-hydroxy acid in the composition according to the present invention is 0.1 to 30% by mass, preferably 1 to 10% by mass, and more preferably 2 to 5% by mass with respect to the total mass of the composition. There may be.

The pH of the composition according to the invention may be less than 5, preferably 3 or more and less than 5, more preferably 4 or more and less than 5.

It may be preferable that (a) biosurfactants, (b) basic amino acids, and (c) α-hydroxy acids interact via ionic bonds in the compositions according to the invention.

The composition according to the present invention may preferably be a cosmetic composition for treating a keratin substance, preferably a skin cosmetic composition, and more preferably a skin cleansing composition.

The compositions according to the invention treat keratin substances, preferably the skin, preferably exfoliate the skin and improve the condition of the skin, more preferably smooth the skin and improve the tone of the skin. It may be intended to brighten and reduce blemish, pores, and blackheads in the pores.

The present invention also relates to a cosmetological method for a keratin substance, preferably skin, which comprises the step of applying the composition according to the invention to the keratin substance.

The present invention also
(a) At least one biosurfactant,
(b) At least one basic amino acid and
(c) At least one α-hydroxy acid and
Is the use of a combination of
Keratin substances, preferably for treating the skin, preferably for exfoliating the skin and improving the condition of the skin, more preferably for smoothing, toning and brightening the skin, scratches, pores, etc. And also related to its use to reduce darkening of pores.

As a result of diligent studies, the inventor has found that the combination of biosurfactants, basic amino acids, and α-hydroxy acids significantly increases the penetration of α-hydroxy acids.

Therefore, the composition according to the present invention is
(a) At least one biosurfactant,
(b) At least one basic amino acid and
(c) At least one α-hydroxy acid and
including.

Since the composition according to the present invention allows the penetration of α-hydroxy acid into the skin, the composition improves the effect of α-hydroxy acid.

Accordingly, the compositions according to the invention can improve the condition of the skin in terms of both appearance and feel of the skin, eg, smooth the skin, enhance and brighten the skin tone, and of wounds, pores, and pores. It can reduce darkening.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention can preferably be used as a cleaning product for keratin substances such as skin.

Hereinafter, the composition according to the present invention will be described in detail.

[Biosurfactant]
The composition according to the invention comprises at least one biosurfactant. If more than one biosurfactant is used, they may be the same or different.

The term "biosurfactant" as used herein means any substance that can function as a surfactant and can be produced by microorganisms such as fungi and bacteria. Biosurfactants are a type of natural surfactant.

In one embodiment, (a) the biosurfactant is selected from a compound consisting of a hydrophobic moiety that is a saturated or unsaturated linear or branched hydrocarbon group and a hydrophilic moiety that contains at least one carboxyl group. You may.

Saturated or unsaturated linear or branched hydrocarbon groups of the hydrophobic moiety are C ₅ to C ₃₀ alkyl, alkenyl or alkynyl groups, preferably C ₈ to C ₂₀ alkyl groups, more preferably C ₁₀ to. You may choose from C ₁₅ alkyl groups. The hydrophilic moiety may contain two or more carboxyl groups, more preferably two carboxyl groups.

According to at least one embodiment, (a) the biosurfactant has a lactone ring, preferably gamma-butyrolactone.

(a) The biosurfactant may be in salt or non-salt form.

The biosurfactant, in the form of a salt, may be an organic salt or an inorganic salt. In this case, the biosurfactant can be used in a mixture with an organic or inorganic base. This base is a neutralizing base, i.e., it is possible to neutralize biosurfactants to form their salts. In particular, the base may be selected from:
--Ammonia water,
—— Alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamine, isopropanolamine, and 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol,
--Oxyethyleneated and / or oxypropylenediamine,
--Inorganic or organic hydroxides.

The base is preferably an alkali metal hydroxide, an alkaline earth metal hydroxide, eg, sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, a transition metal hydroxide, eg, Group III, Group III of the Element Periodic Table. It is selected from Group IV, Group V and Group VI metal hydroxides, lanthanide or actinide hydroxides, quaternary ammonium hydroxides and guanidinium hydroxide. The hydroxide may be formed in situ, and may be, for example, guanidine hydroxide formed by the reaction of calcium hydroxide with guanidine carbonate.
--Alkali metal silicates, such as sodium metasilicate,
—— Amino acids, preferably basic amino acids such as arginine, lysine, ornithine, citrulline and histidine,
--Carbonates and bicarbonates, especially primary amines, secondary amines, or tertiary amine carbonates and bicarbonates, alkali metals or alkaline earth metal carbonates and bicarbonates, or ammonium Carbonates and bicarbonates, as well as
--The following formula:

(During the ceremony,
W is a C ₁ to C ₆ alkylene residue optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group or a C ₁ to C ₆ alkyl group.
Rx, Ry, Rz and Rt may be the same or different and represent a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ to C ₆ alkyl, C ₁ to C ₆ hydroxyalkyl or C ₁ to C ₆ aminoalkyl group).
Compound.
Specific examples include 1,3-diaminopropane, 1,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine, and spermidine.

Most specifically, the base is an inorganic hydroxide such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, cesium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, magnesium hydroxide, zinc hydroxide; basic amino acids such as lysine, Arginine, histidine, citrulin, ornithine; alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, 2- (dimethylamino) ethanol, triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, monoisopropanolamine; aqueous ammonia; guanidine carbonate; and these. You may choose from the mixture of. Preferably, the base is selected from arginine, triethanolamine, potassium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide and mixtures thereof.

Therefore, it is particularly preferred to use the biosurfactant in the form of sodium, potassium, triethanolamine and / or arginine salts.

In particular, (a) the biosurfactant may be appropriately selected from spicylsporic acid, which is also known as 4,5-dicarboxy-4-pentadecanolide or S-acid, the fungal penicillium spicli. Generated by Penicillium spiculisporum (ATCC 16071) and has the following equation:

It is also possible to use a derivative of spicrysporic acid in the composition according to the present invention. Examples of such derivatives that can be mentioned include compounds represented by the following general formula (1) or (2):

(During the ceremony,
R ₁ represents a hydrogen atom, or an unsubstituted alkyl group having 1 to 21 carbon atoms, or an alkyl group having 1 to 21 carbon atoms and one or more hydroxyl groups.
R ₂ represents an alkyl group having 1 to 21 carbon atoms and either one or more hydroxyl groups or one or more carboxyl groups.
R ₃ represents an alkyl group with 1 to 21 carbon atoms).

For R ₁ , methyl and ethyl groups can be mentioned as the unsubstituted alkyl group, and hydroxyethyl and hydroxypropyl groups can be mentioned as the alkyl group having one or more hydroxyl groups.

For R ₂ , examples of the alkyl group having one or more hydroxyl groups include hydroxyethyl and hydroxypropyl groups, as well as the following groups:-CH ₂ CH (OH) CH ₂ OH,-(CH ₂ ). ₅ OH,-(CH ₂ ) ₄ OH, -CH ₂ (CH (OH)) ₄ CH OH and -C (CH ₂ OH) ₃ .

For R ₂ , examples of alkyl groups with one or more carboxyl groups include: -CH ₂ COOH, -CH ₂ CH ₂ COOH, -CH (CH ₃ ) COOH, -CH (COOH). ) CH ₂ COOH, -CH (COOH) CH ₂ CH ₂ COOH and-(CH ₂ ) ₅ COOH.

For R ₃ , the alkyl groups include saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon groups with 1 to 21 carbon atoms and cycloalkyl groups with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, such as octyl, stearyl and palmityl groups. , Oleyl group and cyclohexyl group can be mentioned.

Another example of a derivative of spicrysporic acid may include a compound represented by the following general formula (3) or (4):

(During the ceremony,
R represents a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group with 1 to 21 carbon atoms.
M represents a hydrogen atom or an alkali metal ion, an alkaline earth metal ion, an ammonium ion or an alkanol ammonium ion).

For R, as saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon groups with 1 to 21 carbon atoms, methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, n-butyl, isobutyl, n-pentyl, aryl, octyl, 4-octenyl, 2- Examples include octenyl, 2-ethylhexyl, oleyl, palmityl, hexyl, 2-hexenyl, 11-hexadecenyl, hexadecyl, cyclohexyl, stearyl and geranyl groups.

Derivatives of spicrysporic acid may also be used in salt or non-salt form.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, (a) the biosurfactant is selected from spicrysporic acid, its derivatives, and salts of spicysporic acid and its derivatives, such as sodium, potassium, triethanolamine and / or arginine salts.

The amount of (a) biosurfactant in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.01% by mass or more, preferably 0.1% by mass or more, more preferably 1% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition.

The amount of (a) biosurfactant in the composition according to the present invention may be 20% by mass or less, preferably 10% by mass or less, more preferably 8% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition.

The amount of (a) biosurfactant in the composition according to the present invention is 0.01 to 20% by mass, preferably 0.1 to 10% by mass, and more preferably 1 to 8% by mass with respect to the total mass of the composition. May be good.

[Basic amino acids]
The composition according to the invention comprises (b) at least one basic amino acid. Two or more basic amino acids may be used in combination. Therefore, a single type of basic amino acid or a combination of different types of basic amino acids may be used.

The term "amino acid" as used herein means a compound that cannot be obtained by polycondensation of the same or different amino acids. In addition, the term "amino acid" is used herein to include not only the amino acids themselves, but also the amino acids in their salt form. Examples of the salt include sodium salt, magnesium salt, potassium salt, calcium salt and the like.

The amino acids that can be used according to the present invention include at least one amine functional group and at least one acid functional group.

The acid functional group may be a carboxylic acid, a sulfonic acid, a phosphonic acid or a phosphoric acid, preferably a carboxylic acid.

Amino acids that can be used in accordance with the present invention may be α-amino acids, β-amino acids, or γ-amino acids. Preferably, the amino acid used in the present invention is an α-amino acid, i.e., the same carbon atom contains an amine functional group and an acid functional group.

The basic amino acids used in the present invention may have two or more amine functional groups, such as an amino group, and one acid functional group, such as a carboxyl group, preferably two amine functional groups, such as. It may have an amino group and one acid functional group, for example, a carboxyl group.

Examples of the basic amino acids that can be used in the present invention include arginine, lysine, histidine, ornithine and mixtures thereof. Of these, arginine is preferred.

In at least one embodiment, the amount of (b) basic amino acids in the composition according to the invention is desired to have a pH of less than 5, preferably 3 or more and less than 5, more preferably 4 or more and less than 5. The amount adjusted to the range. In another embodiment, the amount of (b) basic amino acid in the composition according to the invention is such that the pH of the composition is adjusted to 4.5 or more and less than 5.

The amount of (b) basic amino acid in the composition according to the present invention may be 0.1% by mass or more, preferably 1% by mass or more, more preferably 5% by mass or more, based on the total mass of the composition. ..

The amount of (b) basic amino acid in the composition according to the present invention may be 30% by mass or less, preferably 20% by mass or less, more preferably 10% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the composition. ..

Specifically, the amount of (b) basic amino acid in the composition according to the present invention is 0.1 to 30% by mass, preferably 1 to 20% by mass, and more preferably 5 to 5 to the total mass of the composition. It may be 10% by mass.

According to one embodiment, the molar ratio of (a) biosurfactant to (b) basic amino acid is 1: 1 to 1:50, preferably 1: 1 to 1:30, more preferably 1: 1 to 1: 1. It is 15.

[Α-Hydroxy acid]
The composition according to the invention comprises at least one (c) α-hydroxy acid. If more than one (c) α-hydroxy acid is used, they may be the same or different.

The term "α-hydroxy acid", or "AHA", is used herein to mean a carboxylic acid that has at least one hydroxyl group on an adjacent (alpha) carbon atom.

(c) α-Hydroxyic acid is, for example, glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid and gluconic acid and mixtures thereof, preferably glycolic acid and citric acid and mixtures thereof, more preferably glycol. You may choose from acids.

The amount of (c) α-hydroxy acid in the composition according to the present invention is 0.1% by mass or more, preferably 0.5% by mass or more, more preferably 1% by mass or more, still more preferably, based on the total mass of the composition. May be 1.5% by mass or more, and even more preferably 2% by mass or more.

The amount of (c) α-hydroxy acid in the composition according to the present invention is 30% by mass or less, preferably 20% by mass or less, more preferably 10% by mass or less, still more preferably, based on the total mass of the composition. May be 7% by mass or less, and even more preferably 5% by mass or less.

The amount of (c) α-hydroxy acid in the composition according to the present invention is 0.1 to 30% by mass, preferably 0.5 to 20% by mass, more preferably 1 to 10% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition. It may be further preferably in the range of 1.5 to 7% by mass, and even more preferably in the range of 2 to 5% by mass.

According to one embodiment, the molar ratio of (b) basic amino acids to (c) α-hydroxy acids is 5: 1 to 1:10, preferably 3: 1 to 1: 5, more preferably 2: 1 to 1. 1: 3. According to another embodiment, the molar ratio of (a) biosurfactant to (c) α-hydroxy acid is 1: 1 to 1:50, preferably 1: 1 to 1:35, more preferably 1: 1 to 1. 1:20.

According to one embodiment, biosurfactants and basic amino acids interact via ionic bonds, and basic amino acids and α-hydroxy acids also interact via ionic bonds. According to one particular embodiment, as a result of ionic bond-mediated interactions, complexes of biosurfactants, basic amino acids, and α-hydroxy acids can be formed in the compositions according to the invention. According to one particular embodiment, vesicles of biosurfactants and basic amino acids surrounding α-hydroxy acids can be formed in the compositions according to the invention as a result of ionic bond-mediated interactions. Without wishing to be bound by any theory, with proper molecular weight and hydrophobicity, the complex increases the residue of the composition on the skin, thereby improving the penetration of α-hydroxy acids. Is guessed.

[Other ingredients]
The compositions according to the invention may also contain at least one other optional or additional ingredient commonly used in the field of cosmetics, which is preferably a cleaning agent, skin care or make-up removal. It is selected from those conventionally used in the product, provided that these additives and their amounts do not impair the desired quality of the composition according to the invention.

(Surfactant)
The composition of the present invention may contain one or more surfactants other than the above (a) biosurfactant. The surfactant may be nonionic, anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic or cationic.

Surfactants that may be included in the compositions of the invention include, for example, amine derivatives such as betaines such as alkyl betaine and alkylamide alkyl betaines, especially coco-betaine and cocamidopropyl betaine; amino acid surfactants such as amino acid salts. For example, sarcosin salts, alanine salts and glutamates, especially cocoylalanine sodium; sulfates, sulfonates and phosphates, especially sulfonates, such as sodium hydroxyalkanosulfonate; esters of polyols and fatty acids, especially polyglyceryl fatty acids. Includes esters such as polyglyceryl-2-laurate; as well as natural surfactants such as lecithin.

(Polyol)
The composition according to the present invention may contain one or more polyols. The polyol may be a natural or synthetic polyol and may have a linear, branched or cyclic molecular structure.

The polyols that can be contained in the compositions of the present invention include, for example, glycerin and its derivatives, and glycols and their derivatives such as glycerin, diglycerin, polyglycerin, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, and the like. Includes pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, polyethylene glycol (5-50 ethylene oxide groups), and sugars such as sorbitol.

(Other additives)
Other optional or additional ingredients are cationic, anionic, nonionic or amphoteric polymers that may be of natural or synthetic origin; detergents; foaming agents; conditioning agents; emulsifiers; thickeners. , For example acrylic acid polymers, especially crosslinked acrylic acid polymers such as polyacrylate crosspolymer-6; binders; peptides and derivatives thereof; protein hydrolysates; swelling agents and penetrants; suspending agents; metal ion sequestering agents; emulsions. Dyes; sunscreens; fragrances; preservatives such as phenoxyethanol, co-preservatives; stabilizers; solvents; cosmetic activators such as β-hydroxy acids such as salicylic acid and 5-n-octanoyl salicylic acid, vitamins or provitamins. , Moisturizers, skin softeners and collagen protectants; and mixtures thereof.

The amount of the optional or additional component is not limited, but is 0.01 to 50% by mass, preferably 0.1 to 30% by mass, more preferably 1 to 10% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition according to the present invention. You may.

[water]
The composition according to the present invention may contain water.

The amount of water in the composition according to the present invention may be in the range of 30 to 98% by mass, preferably 40 to 95% by mass, more preferably 50 to 90% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition. ..

[pH]
The pH of the composition according to the invention is less than 5, preferably 3 or more and less than 5, more preferably 4 or more and less than 5.
According to one embodiment, the pH is naturally desired without the addition of acidifying agents or basicizing agents in addition to the biosurfactants, basic amino acids, and α-hydroxy acids contained in the compositions according to the invention. Reach the value of. In another embodiment, the pH is desired by adding at least one acidifying agent and / or at least one basicizing agent in addition to the biosurfactant, the basic amino acid, and the α-hydroxy acid. It may be adjusted to the value.

The acidifying agent may be, for example, a mineral acid or an organic acid, eg, hydrochloric acid, orthoric acid, a carboxylic acid, eg, tartrate acid, citric acid, lactic acid, or sulfonic acid.

Basic agents include, for example, ammonium hydroxide, alkali metal hydroxides, alkaline earth metal hydroxides, alkali metal carbonates, alkanolamines such as mono-, di- and triethanolamine, and derivatives thereof. Preferably sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, as well as the following formula:

(During the ceremony,
R represents an alkylene such as propylene optionally substituted with a hydroxyl or C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl group, and R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ are independently hydrogen atoms and alkyl groups. , Or represents a C ₁ to C ₄ hydroxyalkyl group)
It may be a compound of, which may be exemplified by 1,3-propanediamine and its derivatives. Arginine, urea, and monoethanolamine may be preferred.

The acidifying agent or basicizing agent may be used in an amount in the range of 0.001 to 15% by mass, preferably 0.01 to 10% by mass, more preferably 0.1 to 5% by mass, based on the total mass of the composition. good.

[Preparation]
In at least one embodiment, the compositions according to the invention are:
(i) (a) At least one biosurfactant,
(b) At least one basic amino acid and
(c) At least one α-hydroxy acid and
(d) With one or more other ingredients at will,
The process of mixing, as well as
(ii) Optionally, can be prepared by a method comprising the step of adjusting the pH of the solution using at least one acidifying agent and / or at least one basicizing agent.

In another embodiment, the composition according to the invention is:
(i) (a) At least one biosurfactant,
(b) At least one basic amino acid and
The process of mixing,
(ii) Optional heating of the mixture to dissolve the components,
(iii) (c) At least one α-hydroxy acid and
(d) With one or more other ingredients at will,
The process of adding and mixing, as well as
(iv) Optionally, it can be prepared by a method comprising the step of adjusting the pH of the solution using at least one acidifying agent and / or at least one basicizing agent.

The mixing and heating steps can be performed by any conventional means in the art.

Accordingly, the present invention relates to (a) at least one biosurfactant, (b) at least one basic amino acid, and (c) at least one α-hydroxy acid in the method for producing a composition according to the invention. Has a mode of use.

[Use and method]
The composition according to the present invention can preferably be used as a cosmetic composition. The cosmetic composition may be a skin cosmetic composition, for example, a skin cleansing composition. Skin, as used herein, includes facial skin, neck skin, and scalp. The composition according to the present invention can also be used for mucous membranes such as lips.

In particular, the compositions according to the invention may be intended for application to keratinous substances such as skin or lips, preferably skin. Therefore, the compositions according to the invention can be used in cosmetic methods for the skin or lips, preferably the skin.

The cosmetic method or cosmetic use for a keratin substance such as skin according to the present invention is at least (i) a step of applying the composition according to the present invention on the keratin substance and (ii) rinsing off the composition optionally. Including the process.

The cosmetological method or cosmetological use according to the invention can provide effective penetration of α-hydroxy acids by association with at least the components (a)-(c) in the composition according to the invention, thereby α-. The effect of hydroxy acids can be improved.

It is known that α-hydroxy acids activate proteases in the stratum corneum to promote the degradation of corneodesmosomes and promote collagen formation in the dermis, which subsequently leads to skin desquamation. In addition, α-hydroxy acids have also been reported to reduce facial pores and darkening of pores, presumably by targeting enzyme activation and protein functions involved in sebum production. Will be done.

Thus, the above composition can have a cosmetic effect of exfoliating the skin and improving the condition of the skin in terms of both appearance and feel of the skin, which smoothes the skin and shades the skin. Includes improving and brightening, reducing scratches, pores, and darkening of pores.

Accordingly, one aspect of the invention is to make the skin a composition comprising (a) at least one biosurfactant, (b) at least one basic amino acid, and (c) at least one α-hydroxy acid. For treatment, preferably for use to cleanse the skin.

The present invention will be described in more detail by way of examples. However, these examples should not be construed as limiting the scope of the invention. The following examples are presented as non-limiting examples in the field of the invention.

(Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4)
In vitro evaluation of α-hydroxy acid permeation
(Preparation)
The following compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 were prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 1 below. All figures for the amount of ingredients shown in Table 1 are based on "% by mass" as an active ingredient. In the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2, the interaction of spicrysporic acid, arginine and glycolic acid was confirmed by NMR (data not shown).

(Evaluation: Permeation test)
The compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4 were prepared in vitro using a pseudo-skin substrate (Strat-M) and diffusion cells (Franz cells) for the permeation efficiency of α-hydroxy acid (glycolic acid). Then, it was evaluated as follows.

Device:
Effective diffusion area of Strat-M® membrane (sold by EMD Millipore Corporation (USA)) in Franz diffusion vertical cell (sold by Teledyne Hanson Research, Inc. (USA)) 1.77 cm ² As a result, a permeation experiment was conducted. The device consists of a donor compartment and a receptor compartment, as well as a Strat-M membrane between them. The solution in the receptor compartment was agitated with a stirrer (V9-CB stirrer for Franz cells, sold by PermeGear, Inc. (USA)).

Experimental procedure:
—— 2.5 ml of the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 and Comparative Examples 1-4 were applied separately to the donor compartment of each Franz cell.
--The receptor compartment was filled with 5.5 ml PBS and 0.25% Tween 80 solution.
--The solution in the receptacle compartment was continuously stirred using a small magnetic stir bar for up to 5 hours.
—— At 1 hour, 2 hours and 5 hours, 200 μl of the receptor solution was sampled.
--The glycolic acid content of the sample was analyzed by HPLC.
Each experiment was performed 3 times.
The results are shown in Table 2 as "permeate glycolic acid (μg / cm ² )" at 1 hour, 2 hours and 5 hours.

As shown in Table 2, the glycolic acid in the compositions according to Comparative Examples 1 to 4 did not permeate the simulated skin substrate (Strat-M) until the end of the test. In contrast, the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2 greatly improved the permeability of glycolic acid. Glycolic acid was already detected at 1 hour in the receptacle compartment of the Franz cell containing the compositions according to Examples 1 and 2, and the amount of glycolic acid permeated increased over time.

The above results provide a dramatic increase in the permeation of this α-hydroxy acid provided by a particular combination of biohydrophobics, basic amino acids, and α-hydroxy acids of the invention, which combination is the α-hydroxy acid. It may be suggested that the formation of a complex that imparts hydrophobicity to the acid improves the permeation of hydrophilic α-hydroxy acids.

(Example 3)
Cleaning composition
(Preparation)
The cleaning composition according to Example 3 was prepared by mixing the components shown in Table 3 below. All figures for the amount of ingredients shown in Table 3 are based on "% by mass" as an active ingredient.

(sensory evaluation)
The cleaning composition according to Example 3 was evaluated by 14 panelists selected from consumers. Panelists used the composition at home twice daily for 5 days, morning and evening. When using the cleaning composition according to Example 3, the panelists foamed with the composition and then applied the foam to the skin. The composition was rinsed off with water. After 5 days of trial use, panelists were asked for feedback on skin feel and appearance.

Panelists reported that the skin feel was smoother and softer. Panelists also reported that the appearance of the skin was smoother and more uniform, and the skin tone became lighter and brighter. In addition, panelists reported that pores were minimized and that less scars and darkening of pores were found after using the composition according to Example 3.

Since α-hydroxy acids are known for their peeling / exfoliating effects, the above-mentioned positive effects on the skin are believed to be due to the increased penetration of α-hydroxy acids into the skin.

Claims (11)

(a) Biosurfactants selected from at least one of spicysporic acid, its derivatives, and salts of spicysporic acid and its derivatives .
(b) With arginine ,
(c) A skin cosmetic composition comprising at least one α-hydroxy acid. The composition according to claim 1 , wherein the amount of (a) biosurfactant in the composition is 0.01 to 20% by mass with respect to the total mass of the composition. The composition according to claim 1 or 2 , wherein the amount of (b) arginine in the composition is 0.1 to 30% by mass with respect to the total mass of the composition. (c) The invention according to any one of claims 1 to 3 , wherein the α-hydroxy acid is selected from glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, citric acid, tartaric acid, mandelic acid and gluconic acid and mixtures thereof. Composition. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4 , wherein the amount of (c) α-hydroxy acid in the composition is 0.1 to 30% by mass with respect to the total mass of the composition. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 , wherein the pH of the composition is less than 5. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6 , wherein (a) a biosurfactant, (b) arginine , and (c) α-hydroxy acid interact with each other via an ionic bond. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7 , which is a skin cleansing composition. The composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 , which is intended to exfoliate the skin and improve the condition of the skin. A cosmetological method for treating the skin , comprising the step of applying the skin cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9 to the skin. (a) Biosurfactants selected from at least one of spicysporic acid, its derivatives, and salts of spicysporic acid and its derivatives .
(b) With arginine ,
(c) Use in combination with at least one α - hydroxy acid to treat the skin.