JP6715753B2 - Oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to an oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic.

Many cosmetics have been put on the market, which emphasize the skin's firmness and anti-wrinkle effect. Known methods for increasing the firmness and elasticity of the skin include a method of incorporating a plant extract and a method of using a vitamin A derivative. Since these methods have little immediate effect, it is difficult to promote long-term continuous use until a pharmacological effect is realized. Therefore, efforts have been made to apply a cosmetic material to physically give the skin firmness and to realize an immediate effect.

A technique is known in which silica is contained in a film-forming resin or a film-forming fat or oil to remarkably increase the film contraction force to extend the wrinkles of the skin (Patent Document 1: JP-A-5-000933).
By blending a water-soluble film-forming agent such as polyvinyl alcohol, a water-soluble humectant and a specific ester oil, the spreadability during application is good, and the glossiness is high, and a cosmetic with excellent elasticity is provided. (Patent Document 2: Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2007-269723). However, if the amount of a water-soluble moisturizer or emollient is increased to enhance moisturizing feeling and softness, there is a problem that the firmness cannot be fully realized.
By blending N-long-chain acylamino acid type surfactant, higher alcohol or higher fatty acid, volatile oil agent, oil-soluble film forming agent, you can feel firmness immediately after use, excellent usability such as elongation, high moisturizing feeling There is provided a skin external preparation capable of imparting (Patent Document 3: JP2013-136546A). However, when an oil-soluble film forming agent is added to give a firmness, there is a problem that the flexibility of the skin is impaired.
As a technique for providing a cosmetic excellent in the effect of imparting a firmness to the skin and an effect of softening the skin, a volatile hydrocarbon, a higher alcohol liquid at 25° C., an oil agent having a specific melting point, and an oleic acid of HLB10 to 16 An oil-in-water cosmetic containing a nonionic surfactant is known (Patent Document 4: JP 2012-214448 A), but the method using a volatile oil is used for sensitive parts such as the eyes. There are safety concerns.

As a technique related to isostearic acid dextrin used in the present invention, an example of using a dextrin fatty acid ester in an oil-in-water cosmetic is known (Patent Document 5: JP 2002-193740 A, Patent Document 6: JP A). 2007-169240), it is known that the stability of the emulsion is improved and that it has a unique feeling of use.
It is known that an oil-in-water type base cosmetic composition containing dextrin isostearate and an oil agent has a flexible film forming property and is excellent in cosmetic film persistence (Patent Document 7: JP 2011-225561 A). However, the firmness after application of cosmetics and the flexibility of the skin have not been examined.
There is known a sunscreen cosmetic having an excellent moisturizing feeling, which is free from a coating film containing an oil-soluble ultraviolet absorber, a dextrin fatty acid ester, and an acrylic acid-based polymer (Patent Document 8: JP-A-2014-185137). ), the feeling of elasticity and flexibility after application of cosmetics have not been examined.
As a preparation containing dextrin isostearate to enhance the flexibility of the skin, a cosmetic containing solid oil having a melting point of 35° C. or higher, a higher alcohol liquid at 25° C. and dextrin isostearate (Patent Document 9: JP 2013-2013A). No. 071919) is disclosed, the skin flexibility is evaluated by an oil-based solid external skin softening agent for skin softening, and the firmness and skin flexibility in oil-in-water emulsion cosmetics are examined. Not not.

In connection with the hydroxypropyl modified starch used in the present invention, there is an anti-wrinkle composition containing glyceryl amidoethyl methacrylate/stearyl methacrylate copolymer, hydroxypropyl starch, 1,3-butylene glycol and glycerin. (Patent Document 10: Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2014-227400), the flexibility of the skin after application of a cosmetic has not been examined.

Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 05-000933 JP, 2007-269723, A JP, 2013-136546, A JP 2012-214448 A JP-A-2002-193740 JP, 2007-169240, A JP, 2011-225561, A JP, 2014-185137, A JP, 2013-071919, A JP, 2014-227400, A

An object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic having an immediate effect of giving the skin a firm feeling and an effect of enhancing the flexibility of the skin.

The present invention specifically has the following matters.
1. An oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic containing hydroxypropyl modified starch and a dextrin branched fatty acid ester.
2. 1. The above-mentioned dextrin branched fatty acid ester is dextrin isostearic acid ester. The oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic described in.
3. The compounding ratio of the hydroxypropyl modified starch and the dextrin branched fatty acid ester is in the range of 1:9 to 9:1 by mass ratio. Or 2. The oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic described in.
4. The blending amount of the hydroxypropyl modified starch is 0.1% by mass or more and 5% by mass or less based on the total mass of the cosmetic. ~3. The oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic according to any one of 1.
5. The content of the dextrin branched fatty acid ester is 0.1% by mass or more and 5% by mass or less based on the total mass of the cosmetic. ~4. The oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic according to any one of 1.

The oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic composition of the present invention can impart to the skin a firmness and a softness which have been difficult to achieve in the past. The oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic composition of the present invention can instantly impart a firmness and a softness, so that the user can feel the effect and can expect long-term use.
Since the oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic of the present invention can be expected to be used continuously for a long period of time, the effect of improving the skin function by the functional ingredient and the like is improved and sustained, and the soft and elastic skin and the reduction of wrinkles are achieved. can do.

The figure which shows the time-dependent change of the coating film elasticity by a rigid pendulum physical property tester.

The present invention relates to an oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic containing hydroxypropyl modified starch and dextrin branched fatty acid ester.

"Hydroxypropyl modified starch"
The oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic of the present invention contains hydroxypropyl-modified starch as a component giving a firmness. Hydroxypropyl modified starch is a propylene glycol ether of starch.
The starch used for producing the hydroxypropyl modified starch may be any starch as long as it is derived from a plant, and for example, starch derived from corn, rice, beans, potato, sweet potato, tapioca, bracken, and kudzu can be used.
As the hydroxypropyl modified starch, a cosmetic raw material defined by the cosmetic label as hydroxypropyl starch can be used.
As the hydroxypropyl modified starch, a commercially available product can be used, and examples thereof include "Amaze" manufactured by Akzo Nobel Co., Ltd.

The amount of hydroxypropyl-modified starch used in the present invention is preferably 0.1% by mass or more and 5% by mass or less, and particularly preferably 0.2% by mass or more and 3% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the cosmetic.

"Dextrin branched fatty acid ester"
The oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic of the present invention contains a dextrin-branched fatty acid ester as a component that gives a firmness. Dextrin branched fatty acid ester is a branched fatty acid ester of dextrin.
Examples of the dextrin branched fatty acid ester used in the present invention include dextrin isostearic acid ester, dextrin isodecanoic acid ester, dextrin isononanoic acid ester, and dextrin 2-ethylhexanoic acid ester.
As the dextrin branched fatty acid ester used in the present invention, dextrin isostearic acid ester is preferable. Dextrin isostearic acid ester is a cosmetic raw material which is defined as isostearic acid dextrin in the cosmetic label. As the dextrin isostearate, a commercially available product can be used, and examples thereof include “Unifilma HVY” manufactured by Chiba Milling Co., Ltd.

The content of the dextrin branched fatty acid ester used in the present invention is preferably 0.1% by mass or more and 5% by mass or less, and particularly preferably 0.2% by mass or more and 3% by mass or less, based on the total mass of the cosmetic.

The mixing ratio of the hydroxypropyl modified starch and the dextrin branched fatty acid ester used in the present invention is preferably 1:9 to 9:1 by mass ratio, and particularly preferably 2:8 to 8:2.

The oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic of the present invention includes, as an emulsifier, a nonionic surfactant, a polymeric emulsifier, an anionic surfactant, a cationic surfactant, an amphoteric surfactant, a semipolar surfactant. Any of these can be used.
A moisturizer can be added to the oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic of the present invention, and examples of the moisturizer include polyhydric alcohols, sugars, sugar alcohols, amino acids, peptides, water-soluble polymers and the like. ..
An oil agent is added to the oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic of the present invention. Examples of the oil agent include animal and vegetable oils, hydrocarbon oils, ester oils, waxes, higher alcohols, higher fatty acids, cholesterol, silicone oils and the like.
A thickener may be added to the oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic of the present invention, and examples of the thickener include water-soluble polymers and clay minerals.
In addition, the oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic composition of the present invention may be mixed with various ingredients commonly used in cosmetics such as functional ingredients, antibacterial agents, stabilizers, fragrances, and ultraviolet absorbers.

The oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic composition of the present invention is preferably used in a skin care preparation, and can be used as a wrinkle-smoothing beauty essence, an eye essence essence, and the like.

[Evaluation of firmness, flexibility and flexibility 1]
The oil-in-water emulsified cosmetics of the standard product 1, Example 1, and Comparative Examples 1 to 8 were prepared by the conventional method with the formulations shown in Table 1.

ヒドロキシプロピル変性デンプン：アクゾノーベル株式会社製「アメイズ」
イソステアリン酸デキストリン：千葉製粉株式会社製「ユニフィルマＨＶＹ」
パルミチン酸デキストリン：千葉製粉株式会社製「レオパールＫＬ２」
トリポリヒドロキシステアリン酸ジペンタエリスリチル：日清オイリオグループ株式会社製「サラコスＷＯ−６ 」
ポリエチレングリコール：日油株式会社製「ＰＥＧ＃２００００」
ポリビニルピロリドン：ＢＡＳＦジャパン株式会社製「Ｌｕｖｉｓｋｏｌ Ｋ３０」

Hydroxypropyl modified starch: "Amaze" manufactured by Akzo Nobel Co., Ltd.
Dextrin isostearate: "Unifilma HVY" manufactured by Chiba Flour Milling Co., Ltd.
Dextrin palmitate: "Leopearl KL2" manufactured by Chiba Milling Co., Ltd.
Tripolyhydroxystearate dipentaerythrityl: "Saracos WO-6" manufactured by Nisshin Oillio Group, Ltd.
Polyethylene glycol: NOF Corporation “PEG#20000”
Polyvinylpyrrolidone: "Luviskol K30" manufactured by BASF Japan Ltd.

[Rigidity/flexibility evaluation]
Test Method Seven specialist panelists evaluated the firmness and softness of Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 8 with respect to the standard product 1 by the following procedure.
After washing the inner part of the forearm, the standard product 1 and one of the test products of Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1 to 8 were applied, and after 3 minutes, the firmness and softness were evaluated according to the following criteria.

Evaluation criteria for firmness 5 points Feeling firmer than standard product 1 4 Feeling slightly firmer than standard product 3 3 Equal to standard product 1 2 Feeling much firmer than standard product 1 No 1 point Compared to the standard product 1, it does not feel firm

Evaluation criteria for softness 5 points Feeling that the skin is softer than standard product 1 4 points Feeling that the skin is slightly softer than standard product 1 3 points Equivalent to standard product 1 2 Points Less than standard product 1 I do not feel that my skin has softened 1 point I do not feel that my skin has softened compared to Standard Product 1, The same procedure was repeated for each test product of Example 1 and Comparative Examples 1-8, and the firmness of each test product Feeling and softness were evaluated.

Table 1 averages the evaluation points of the firmness and softness of each specialized panelist.
Furthermore, the average values were classified into ⊚, ∘, Δ, and x according to the following criteria, and listed in Table 1.
⊚: Average value is 4.0 or more ○: Average value is 3.5 or more and less than 4.0 Δ: Average value is 3.0 or more and less than 3.5 x: Average value is less than 3.0

[Flexibility evaluation]
Test method Test apparatus: skin viscoelasticity measuring apparatus Coultage+Khazaka's Cutometer DUAL MPA580
Probe hole diameter: 2mm
Measurement mode: Mode 2
Suction time: 10s
Suction speed: 1.5kPa/s
Measurement target: Displacement measurement of the skin surface sucked into the probe hole:
1. The inside of the forearm is washed with a cleaning agent.
Set a measurement site of 2.2 cm×2 cm.
Acclimatize for 20 minutes in an environment of 3.22°C to 25°C and relative humidity of 40% to 45%.
4. Before applying the sample, a probe is applied to the measurement site to measure the position of the skin surface that changes with suction.
5. Apply 60 μL of sample to the measurement site.
6. Ten minutes after the application of the sample, the probe is applied to the measurement site so as not to overlap with the site sucked by the probe before the application of the sample, and the position of the skin surface that changes with suction is measured.
analysis method:
1. Change the skin surface position 5 seconds after the start of suction from the position of the skin surface 1 second after the start of suction (the position of the skin surface 5 seconds after the start of suction-the position of the skin surface 1 second after the start of suction). Sex.
2. The percentage of the difference between the skin flexibility after application of the sample and the skin flexibility before application of the sample based on the skin flexibility before application of the sample is defined as the flexibility increase rate.
Flexibility increase rate (%) = (skin flexibility after application of sample-skin flexibility before application of sample)
/ Skin flexibility before application of sample x 100

Results: The flexibility increase rate of each sample is shown in Table 1.
Further, the rate of increase in flexibility was classified into ⊚, ∘, Δ and × according to the following criteria, and listed in Table 1.
◎: 20% or more ○: 15% or more and less than 20% △: 10% or more and less than 15% ×: less than 10%

[Rigidity, flexibility, flexibility evaluation 2]
The oil-in-water emulsified cosmetics of standard product 2, Examples 2 to 6 and Comparative examples 9 and 10 were prepared by the conventional method using the formulations shown in Table 2. The feeling of elasticity, the feeling of softness, and the rate of increase in flexibility were evaluated in the same manner as in the above method. Note that the evaluation standard for the feeling of elasticity and the feeling of softness is the standard product 2.

[Evaluation of film flexibility of a component that gives a firmness]
Test method Test device: Rigid body pendulum type physical property tester RPT-3000W manufactured by A&D Co., Ltd.
Rigid pendulum frame type: FRB-200
Edge: Pipe edge (φ6 glass rod wrapped with artificial leather)
Substrate: Artificial leather Sample: Oil-in-water emulsified cosmetics sample thickness of Example 1, Comparative Example 1, Comparative Example 7: 100 μm
Measurement temperature: 30°C
Measurement time: 400 seconds Measurement procedure:
1. A coating film of a cosmetic having a film thickness of 100 μm is formed on the artificial leather.
2. Immediately after forming the coating film, a rigid pendulum with an edge is placed on the coating film to give free vibration.
3. Measure the vibration period.

Results Results are shown in FIG.
A rigid pendulum physical property tester can evaluate the curing behavior of the coating film during the drying process. The change in the cycle represents the change in elasticity of the coating film, and the shorter the cycle, the more the coating film is cured.

In Example 1 in which hydroxypropyl-modified starch and dextrin isostearate were used in combination, the cycle was not significantly changed and gradually shortened, and it was confirmed that the coating film was not cured and the flexibility was maintained.
On the other hand, in Comparative Example 1 in which hydroxypropyl modified starch was blended alone and Comparative Example 7 in which hydroxypropyl modified starch and dextrin palmitate were used in combination, the cycle was drastically shortened, the coating film was hardened, and the flexibility was lowered. It could be confirmed.

Below, the prescription example of this invention is shown.
[Prescription example 1] Emulsion component blending amount (mass%)
1. Dextrin isostearate 0.5
2. Squalane 3.0
3. Jojoba seed oil 2.0
4. Cetyl ethylhexanoate 2.0
5. Lauroyl glutamate di(phytosteryl/octyldodecyl) 1.0
6. Macadamia Nut Fatty Acid Phytosteryl 1.0
7. Sorbitan stearate 1.0
8. Polysorbate 60 1.0
9. Behenyl alcohol 0.5
10. Batyl alcohol 0.5
11. Tocopherol 0.01
12. Hydroxypropyl modified starch 0.5
13. Carbomer 0.2
14. Xanthan gum 0.1
15. White jellyfish polysaccharide 0.1
16. Diglycerin 3.0
17. Betaine 1.0
18. Raffinose 1.0
19. BG 10.0
20. Phenoxyethanol 0.2
21. Potassium hydroxide appropriate amount 22. Purified water Remaining amount

Components 1 to 11 are mixed and dissolved (oil phase). Components 12 to 22 are mixed and dissolved (aqueous phase). The oil phase and the aqueous phase are mixed and stirred with a homomixer to emulsify.

[Prescription example 2] Eye cream component content (% by mass)
1. Dextrin isostearate 0.5
2. Macadamia seed oil 5.0
3. Lauroyl glutamate di(octyldodecyl/phytosteryl/behenyl)
2.0
4. Dimethicone 2.0
5. Pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate 5.0
6. Behenyl alcohol 2.0
7. Polyglyceryl stearate-10 2.0
8. Polyglyceryl distearate-10 1.0
9. Tocopherol 0.01
10. Hydroxypropyl modified starch 1.0
11. Bentonite 1.0
12. Xanthan gum 0.1
13. (Hydroxyethyl acrylate/acryloyl dimethyl taurine Na) copolymer
0.2
14. Glycerin 5.0
15. Diglycerin 3.0
16. DPG 8.0
17. Pentylene glycol 2.0
18. Hyaluronic acid Na 0.1
19. Water-soluble proteoglycan 0.01
20. Suitable amount of citric acid 21. Sodium hydroxide appropriate amount 22. Purified water Remaining amount

Components 1 to 9 are mixed and dissolved (oil phase). Components 10 to 22 are mixed and dissolved (aqueous phase). The oil phase and the aqueous phase are mixed and stirred with a homomixer to emulsify.

[Prescription example 3] Ingredient for beauty essence Amount (% by mass)
1. Dextrin isostearate 0.3
2. Isotridecyl isononanoate 2.0
3. Dimethicone 2.0
4. Cyclohexasiloxane 2.0
5. (Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone) Crosspolymer 1.0
6. Retinol palmitate 0.01
7. PEG-60 hydrogenated castor oil 1.0
8. Hydroxypropyl modified starch 0.3
9. (Acrylates/alkyl acrylate (C10-30)) cross polymer
0.2
10. Xanthan gum 0.1
11. BG 5.0
12. Pentylene glycol 2.0
13. Ethylhexyl glycerin 0.1
14. PEG-32 1.0
15. Hydrolyzed collagen 0.03
15. Suitable amount of potassium hydroxide 16. Fragrance 17. Purified water Remaining amount

Components 1 to 7 are mixed and dissolved (oil phase). Ingredients 8 to 17 are mixed and dissolved (aqueous phase). The oil phase and the aqueous phase are mixed and stirred with a homomixer to emulsify.

Claims (5)

An oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic containing hydroxypropyl modified starch and a dextrin branched fatty acid ester. The oil-in-water emulsified cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the dextrin branched fatty acid ester is dextrin isostearic acid ester. The oil-in-water emulsion cosmetic according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the mixing ratio of the hydroxypropyl-modified starch and the dextrin-branched fatty acid ester is in the range of 1:9 to 9:1 by mass ratio. .. The oil-in-water emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the amount of the hydroxypropyl modified starch is 0.1% by mass or more and 5% by mass or less based on the total mass of the cosmetic. Cosmetics. The oil-in-water emulsion according to any one of claims 1 to 4, wherein the content of the dextrin branched fatty acid ester is 0.1% by mass or more and 5% by mass or less based on the total mass of the cosmetic. Cosmetics.

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