JP6443040B2 - Skin cosmetics - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a skin cosmetic that is excellent in the effect of imparting firmness to the skin and the effect of improving makeup, and also has excellent temporal stability.

  With the rapid arrival of an aging society in recent years, an increasing number of consumers suffer from skin aging. Skin aging progresses due to dryness, aging, ultraviolet rays, etc., and appears as an increase in spots and dullness, a decrease in skin firmness (elasticity), texture irregularities, and pore enlargement. Above all, the decrease in the elasticity (elasticity) of the skin causes wrinkles and sagging, raises the appearance age and gives the impression of “old”. Therefore, there is a demand for skin cosmetics that give the skin firmness and improve wrinkles and sagging.

  On the other hand, with the recent advancement of women in society, so-called "short-time beauty" has been attracting attention, and there is a tendency to simplify the skin care step, and the functions of lotion, milky lotion, cream, and makeup base have been consolidated. And “all-in-one” type cosmetics are on the market. Usually, such products are suitable for people who want to make up their morning makeup in a shorter time, and are often used as “morning” cosmetics. For this reason, there is a tendency to strongly demand the functions of makeup base materials regarded as important for “morning” cosmetics (such as good makeup and prevention of makeup collapse).

Under such circumstances, various skin cosmetics containing ingredients expected to suppress the skin aging phenomenon have been proposed. Among these, it has been confirmed that 1-acyl-2,3-cyclic phosphatidic acid or a salt thereof exhibits a hyaluronic acid production enhancing action, and skin cosmetics containing this component have been proposed (for example, Patent Document 1). ).
However, 1-acyl-2,3-cyclic phosphatidic acid or a salt thereof has low solubility in water and may cause precipitation. It was hard to say.

  Therefore, in order to enhance solubility in water, Patent Document 2 proposes a skin cosmetic in which 1-acyl-2,3-cyclic phosphatidic acid or a salt thereof is blended as a component of liposomes. In this skin cosmetic, although the solubility in water is seen, the effect of giving the skin firmness is weak, and the effect of improving the makeup is insufficient.

JP 2002-363081 A JP 2008-222463 A

  An object of this invention is to provide the skin cosmetics which are excellent in the effect which gives a firm feeling to the skin, the improvement effect of makeup flakes, and is excellent also in temporal stability in view of said subject.

  As a result of intensive studies by the present inventors in order to solve the above problems, (a) 1-acyl-2,3-cyclic phosphatidic acid represented by the formula [I] or a salt thereof, and (b) ethylene oxide It discovered that the skin cosmetics which can solve the said subject were obtained by combining polyoxyethylene methyl glucoside which is a specific average addition mole number with a specific ratio, and came to complete this invention.

  That is, the skin cosmetic of the present invention comprises (a) 0.0001 to 5% by mass of 1-acyl-2,3-cyclic phosphatidic acid represented by the formula [I] or a salt thereof, and (b) an average of ethylene oxide. It is a skin cosmetic containing 0.1 to 15% by mass of polyoxyethylene methyl glucoside having an addition mole number of 15 to 25.

（式中、Ｒは炭素数１０〜２２のアシル基を表す。）

(In the formula, R represents an acyl group having 10 to 22 carbon atoms.)

  The skin cosmetic of the present invention is excellent in the effect of imparting firmness to the skin, the effect of improving the makeup flakes, and is excellent in stability over time.

Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention will be described.
The skin cosmetic of the present invention contains the following components (a) and (b). First, the component (a) will be described.

[(A) 1-acyl-2,3-cyclic phosphatidic acid represented by the formula [I] or a salt thereof]
The component (a) used in the skin cosmetic of the present invention is 1-acyl-2,3-cyclic phosphatidic acid represented by the formula [I] or a salt thereof. Hereinafter, “1-acyl-2,3-cyclic phosphatidic acid or a salt thereof” is also referred to as “substituted cyclic phosphatidic acid (salt)”.
In the formula [I], R is an acyl group having 10 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably an acyl group derived from a linear or branched fatty acid having 12 to 20 carbon atoms.
Examples of fatty acids include saturated fatty acids such as capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidonic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, etc. Unsaturated fatty acids, and mixtures of these fatty acids. Examples of the fatty acid mixture include coconut oil fatty acid, palm kernel oil fatty acid, beef tallow fatty acid, hardened beef tallow fatty acid, soybean phospholipid-derived fatty acid, and egg yolk phospholipid-derived fatty acid. Among them, preferred are soybean phospholipid-derived fatty acids and egg yolk phospholipid-derived fatty acids, and more preferred are soybean phospholipid-derived fatty acids.

  The 1-acyl-2,3-cyclic phosphatidate used in the skin cosmetic of the present invention is represented by the following formula [II].

（式中、Ｒは炭素数１０〜２２のアシル基を表し、Ｍ^＋はカチオンを表す。）

(In the formula, R represents an acyl group having 10 to 22 carbon atoms, and M ⁺ represents a cation.)

R in formula [II] has the same meaning as R in formula [I].
Examples of M in the formula [II] include an alkali metal atom, ammonium, and organic ammonium. Examples of the alkali metal atom include sodium and potassium. Examples of the organic ammonium include triethanolammonium, butylammonium, triethylammonium, and tetramethylammonium. Among these, sodium and potassium are preferable.

  Examples of the method for producing a substituted cyclic phosphatidic acid (salt) include a method in which lysophosphatidylcholine is treated with phospholipase D, a method in which it is prepared by chemical synthesis (see JP-A-6-228169, etc.), and the like.

The purity and form of the substituted cyclic phosphatidic acid (salt) used in the skin cosmetic of the present invention are not particularly limited. For example, pure products, those containing excipients, liquids, and powders can be used. Specifically, powder containing 1-acyl-2,3-cyclic phosphatidic acid obtained by lyophilization using cyclodextrin as an excipient can be mentioned. According to this freeze-drying method, it is possible to obtain a lipid that is easy to handle and is easy to handle with an excipient.
1 type (s) or 2 or more types can be used for a substituted cyclic phosphatidic acid (salt).

  In addition, 1-acyl-2,3-cyclic phosphatidic acid can be obtained commercially as “CyPA-ET” and “CyPA-PW” manufactured by NOF Corporation. “CyPA-ET” and “CyPA-PW” both contain 1-acyl-2,3-cyclic phosphatidic acid, which is an acyl group of fatty acid derived from soybean phospholipid. The fatty acid composition of the fatty acid derived from soybean phospholipid is as follows: palmitic acid 20.4% by mass, stearic acid 3.2% by mass, oleic acid 11.3% by mass, linoleic acid 57.6% by mass, linolenic acid 6.1% by mass, Others are 1.4% by mass.

  (A) Content of a component is 0.0001-5 mass% with respect to skin cosmetics, Preferably it is 0.001-2 mass%, More preferably, it is 0.05-1 mass%. If the content is too small, the effect of imparting firmness to the skin and the effect of improving makeup flesh may be reduced, and if the content is too large, the stability over time may be reduced.

[(B) Polyoxyethylene methyl glucoside]
(B) component used for the skin cosmetics of this invention is polyoxyethylene methyl glucoside whose average addition mole number of ethylene oxide is 15-25. The average added mole number of ethylene oxide is 15 to 25, preferably 17 to 23, and more preferably 18 to 22. If the average added mole number of ethylene oxide is too small, the stability over time may be lowered, and if it is too large, the effect of improving the makeup paste may be lowered.
The average added mole number indicates the total average added mole number of ethylene oxide with respect to 1 mole of methyl glucoside. The polyoxyethylene methyl glucoside can use 1 type (s) or 2 or more types.

Polyoxyethylene methyl glucoside can be produced by a known method, and can usually be obtained by addition polymerization of ethylene oxide to methyl glucose using a phase transfer catalyst, a Lewis acid catalyst, an alkali catalyst or the like. In general, it is preferable to use an alkali catalyst such as potassium hydroxide.
Specific examples of commercially available polyoxyethylene methyl glucoside include, for example, polyoxyethylene (20) methyl glucoside (“Macbiobride MG-20E” manufactured by NOF Corporation and “GLUCAM E” manufactured by Nippon Lubrizol Corporation. -20 ").

  (B) Content of a component is 0.1-15 mass% with respect to skin cosmetics, Preferably it is 2-10 mass%, More preferably, it is 3-7 mass%. If the content is too small, the effect of imparting firmness to the skin and the stability over time may be reduced, and if the content is too high, the effect of improving makeup flesh may be reduced.

[(C) polyhydric alcohol]
The skin cosmetic of the present invention may further contain a polyhydric alcohol as the component (c) in addition to the components (a) and (b). Examples of such polyhydric alcohols include divalent to tetravalent alcohols having 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in other words, water-soluble alcohols having 3 to 6 carbon atoms and 2 to 4 hydroxyl groups. Specific examples include 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerin, diglycerin and the like. It is done. Among these, 1,3-propanediol, 1,3-butylene glycol, 1,2-pentanediol, dipropylene glycol, and glycerin are preferable. These polyhydric alcohols can be used alone or in combination of two or more.

  When the skin cosmetic of the present invention further contains a polyhydric alcohol as the component (c), the content of the component (c) is 1 to 20% by mass, preferably 3 to 18% with respect to the skin cosmetic. % By mass, more preferably 5 to 15% by mass. By making content of (c) component into the said range, the effect which gives a firm feeling to skin, and the improvement effect of a makeup flesh can be further heightened.

The skin cosmetic of the present invention usually contains water in addition to the above-mentioned components (a) to (c), and the components (a) and (b) and optionally (c) ) It can be prepared by mixing the component and water. In addition, the skin cosmetic of the present invention can be blended with other components commonly used in cosmetics as long as the effects of the present invention are not impaired.
The skin cosmetic of the present invention can be applied to, for example, lotion, milky lotion, gel, cream, cosmetic liquid, cosmetic base material, and the like.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described more specifically with reference to examples and comparative examples. The following “%” means “mass%”.

[Examples 1 to 6 and Comparative Examples 1 to 4]
As a skin cosmetic, a lotion was prepared according to the usual method using the components shown in Table 1, and the lotion was evaluated by the following method. The results are shown in Table 1.
In addition, the symbol in a table | surface shows the following goods.
* 1: “CyPA-ET” manufactured by NOF Corporation: An aqueous solution containing 4% by mass of 1-acyl-2,3-cyclic phosphatidic acid, which is an acyl group of soybean phospholipid-derived fatty acid, and 40% by mass of ethanol. In addition, the numerical value of (product) in a table | surface represents the density | concentration of "CyPA-ET" which is a product.
* 2: “CyPA-PW” manufactured by NOF Corporation: Powder containing 10% by mass of 1-acyl-2,3-cyclic phosphatidic acid, which is an acyl group of soybean phospholipid-derived fatty acid, and 50% by mass of cyclodextrin. The numerical value of (Product) in the table represents the concentration of “CyPA-PW” as a product.
* 3: NOF Corporation's “Macbiobride MG-20E”
In addition, (20) in a compound name shows that an average addition mole number is 20 mol.
* 4: “Macbiobride MG-10E” manufactured by NOF Corporation
In addition, (10) in a compound name shows that an average addition mole number is 20 mol.
* 5: NOF Corporation “McBioride MG-20P”
In addition, (20) in a compound name shows that an average addition mole number is 20 mol.

(1) The effect of giving firmness to the skin 20 women (30 to 48 years old) are panelists, and the above lotion is applied twice a day after face washing in the morning and evening for 1 week, 1 week later Before applying skin lotion (skin cosmetic) on the morning of this morning, the panelist evaluated the skin firmness as follows.
2 points: When the skin feels clearly improved.
1 point: When the skin feels somewhat improved.
0 points: When the skin feels unchanged or feels worse.

The total score of 20 people was calculated and evaluated as follows.
A: Total score of 35 or more: A skin cosmetic that strongly gives a firm feeling to the skin.
◯: Total score of 25 points or more and less than 35 points: A skin cosmetic that gives a firm feeling to the skin.
(Triangle | delta): The total score is 15 points or more and less than 25 points: It is skin cosmetics which give the skin a little firmness.
X: The total score is less than 15: It is a skin cosmetic that does not give a firm feeling to the skin.

(2) Improvement effect of makeup glue 20 females (30 to 48 years old) are panelists, and the above lotion is applied to all faces once a day after washing face in the morning and evening for 1 week. After applying lotion (skin cosmetic) on the face, the foundation that they normally use was applied to the entire face, and the panelists evaluated the makeup paste as follows.
2 points: When the makeup feels improved.
1 point: When the makeup feeling is slightly improved.
0 point: When it is felt that there is no change or worsening in the makeup.

The total score of the evaluation for 20 panelists was determined and determined as follows.
A: The total score is 35 points or more: a skin cosmetic that is extremely excellent in the effect of improving makeup flakes.
◯: Total score of 25 points or more and less than 35 points: A skin cosmetic excellent in the improvement effect of makeup flakes.
(Triangle | delta): The total score is 15 points or more and less than 25 points: It is skin cosmetics from which the improvement effect of makeup flakes is acquired slightly.
X: The total score is less than 15: It is a skin cosmetic that does not provide an effect of improving makeup flakes.

(3) Stability over time After the above lotion (skin cosmetic) was sealed in a glass container and allowed to stand at room temperature for 1 week, the appearance was observed with the naked eye and evaluated as follows.
○: Good stability (no change in appearance, no grain, etc.)
Δ: Slightly inferior (slight precipitation or slight grain precipitation)
×: Stability failure (clearly precipitation occurs or grains are precipitated)

  From the results of Examples 1 to 6 shown in Table 1, the lotions according to the skin cosmetics of the present invention are all excellent in the effect of giving the skin firmness, the effect of improving the makeup flakes, and excellent in the stability over time. I can understand that.

On the other hand, in Comparative Examples 1-4, sufficient performance is not obtained.
Specifically, in Comparative Example 1, instead of the component (b), polyoxyethylene methyl glucoside having an average added mole number of ethylene oxide smaller than the lower limit defined in the present invention is blended. Is insufficient.
In Comparative Example 2, instead of the component (b), polyoxypropylene methylglucoside added with an average of 20 moles of propylene oxide is blended, so that the temporal stability is insufficient.
In Comparative Example 3, since the component (a) is not blended, the effect of improving the makeup flare is insufficient, and the effect of giving the skin firmness is not obtained.
In Comparative Example 4, since the content of the component (b) exceeds the upper limit specified in the present invention, the effect of improving the makeup paste is insufficient.

Example 7
Skin cosmetics that are oil-in-water creams were prepared according to conventional methods at the blending ratios shown in Table 2. Using the obtained skin cosmetics, three items were evaluated by the same method as in the above Examples. The results are shown in Table 2.

* 2: “CyPA-PW” manufactured by NOF Corporation: Powder containing 10% by mass of 1-acyl-2,3-cyclic phosphatidic acid, which is an acyl group of soybean phospholipid-derived fatty acid, and 50% by mass of cyclodextrin. The numerical value of (Product) in the table represents the concentration of “CyPA-PW” as a product.
* 3: NOF Corporation's “Macbiobride MG-20E”
In addition, (20) in a compound name shows that an average addition mole number is 20 mol.

  From the results of Example 7 shown in Table 2, it is understood that the cream according to the skin cosmetics of the present invention is excellent in the effect of giving the skin firmness, the improvement effect of the makeup flakes, and excellent in the stability over time. it can.

Claims (1)

(A) 0.0001-5 mass% of 1-acyl-2,3-cyclic phosphatidic acid represented by the formula [I] or a salt thereof,
(B) A skin cosmetic containing 0.1 to 15% by mass of polyoxyethylene methylglucoside having an average addition mole number of ethylene oxide of 15 to 25.

(In the formula, R represents an acyl group having 10 to 22 carbon atoms.)