JP6277140B2 - Stuffed collar and its collar - Google Patents

Description

The present invention relates to a stuffed collar and a collar core thereof.

Collared collar clothes have become established in Japan as a typical example of outerwear, especially as student clothes. The feature of the stuffed collar clothes is the shape of the collar rising from the base of the neck, and various improvements have been added to date as shown in Patent Documents 1 and 2. In these patent documents, a belt-like collar core is constituted by a plurality of layers, but it has uniform flexibility in the longitudinal direction of the collar core.

Since the full collar clothes are provided with the raised collar as described above, the hardness of the collar greatly affects the appearance style and wearing feeling of the full collar clothes.
Stiffening the collar core improves the shape and resilience of the collar core itself and matches the idea that the collar collar should be firm to some extent, but creates a tight feeling around the neck There is a case.

On the other hand, if the collar core is softened, it can relieve the feeling of cramping around the neck, but if it is not in the box, it will be distorted and will not hang properly on the hanger. If left as it is, there is a possibility that strange wrinkles may be attached and the appearance when worn may be deteriorated.

As described above, there is always a problem that it is difficult to achieve both the hardness of the collar and the collar core.

Japanese Patent No. 3387802 Japanese Patent No. 4037486

It is an object of the present invention to simultaneously solve the difficult problems of improving the appearance style of a collared garment and improving the feeling of wearing.

When the inventors of the present invention diligently studied, the conventional collar core had a uniform hardness (softness) from the right end to the left end in the longitudinal direction, but in the first place, the purpose of softening the collar is as follows: It is to eliminate the cramped feeling when worn. A deeper study of the factors that cause this tightness feels that it feels cramped due to the stiffness of the neck (particularly near the throat and chin), rather than the proportion that feels tight due to the overall stiffness around the collar. It turned out that the ratio was larger.

The present invention has been completed on the basis of this new knowledge, and the flexibility of the collar tip portions disposed at both ends in the longitudinal direction of the band-shaped collar core disposed inside the collar of the full-fitting collar clothing is achieved. The above-mentioned problem is solved by making the height higher than the flexibility of the central portion disposed between the two collar tip portions.

The main body of the collar core can be composed of a single sheet or a laminate of various flexible sheets such as synthetic leather, nonwoven fabric, woven fabric, knitted fabric, and film. Various means can be used as specific means for making the flexibility different. For example, (A) the thickness of the neck portion and the central portion are different, (B) the number of layers of the neck portion and the central portion are different, and (C) the neck portion and the central portion are different. It is possible to show that (D) two or three combinations of (A) to (C) are used.

The present invention suppresses the occurrence of cramping due to the hardness of the neck (particularly, near the throat and chin) by increasing the flexibility of the collar tip than the center, and at the same time, the hardness of the center. For example, it can be made suitable for improving shape retention such as elasticity and stiffness, and can have a hardness according to the purpose of the stuffed collar. As a result, it was possible to provide a full-collared garment and a collar core thereof that could simultaneously solve the difficult problems of improving both the appearance style and the feeling of wearing.

(A) is a front view of the collar core which concerns on embodiment of this invention, (B)-(E) is explanatory drawing which concerns on the center cross section which shows the layer structure of the main body of the collar core. (A) The front view of the collar collar clothes which concern on embodiment of this invention, (B) is a longitudinal cross-sectional view of the collar collar part of (A). The Example of this invention is shown, (A) is a top view of a sample piece, (B) is explanatory drawing of the flexibility test of a collar tip part, (C) is explanatory drawing of the flexibility test of a center part.

Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention will be described with reference to the drawings.
(Overview)
The collar core 1 of the present embodiment includes a collar core body 10, engagement members 41 and 42 attached to the collar core body 10, and a badge hole 43 formed in the collar core body 10.

The collar core body 10 is composed of a plurality of layers. The collar core body 10 has a belt-like shape, and the overall shape is a flat shape in a normal state (a state before being placed on the collard collar 5). However, as shown in Patent Document 1, it may be curved in advance in a state before being placed in the collar collar 5.

The collar core body 10 has a left and right length of about 440 mm and a vertical width of about 38 mm in a straightened unfolded state, but can be appropriately changed according to the size of the stuffed collar clothes 5 and the like. In addition, in FIG. 1A, the shape is linear in the left-right direction, but may be a belt shape that is gently curved in an arcuate shape.

(Neck and center)
The collar core main body 10 is divided into a collar tip portion 2 disposed on both ends in the longitudinal direction and a central portion 3 disposed between both collar tip portions 2. The feature of the present invention is that the flexibility of the collar portion 2 is set higher than the flexibility of the central portion 3.

The length in the longitudinal direction of the collar tip 2 is suitably 100 mm to 120 mm, but the length is given to the size of the stuffed collar 5, the balance with the central portion 3, and the collar tip 2. Various modifications can be made according to the degree of flexibility required, flexibility and shape retention required. However, if the length of the collar tip portion 2 is smaller than 100 mm, there is a case where the feeling of cramping at the time of wearing is not sufficient. On the other hand, if it is larger than 120 mm, shape retention as a collar core may be insufficient.

The length of the central portion 3 in the longitudinal direction is suitably 160 mm to 240 mm, but the length is given to the size of the stuffed collar clothes 5, the balance with the collar tip portion 2, and the central portion 3. Various modifications can be made according to the degree of flexibility, the required flexibility and shape retention, and the like. However, if the length of the central portion 3 is smaller than 160 mm, the overall shape retention of the collar core 1 may be deteriorated. On the other hand, if it is larger than 240 mm, the length of the collar tip portion 2 becomes too short, and the effect of eliminating the tight feeling may be insufficient.

(Flexibility between collar and center)
The collar portion 2 is characterized by its higher flexibility than the central portion 3. Specifically, in the measurement values of flexibility shown in the examples described later, it is desirable that the flexibility of the collar portion 2 shows a negative value and the flexibility of the central portion 3 shows a positive value.

Note that the flexibility of the collar tip portion 2 can be gradually increased as it goes toward the collar tip side (the tip side in the left-right direction in FIG. 1A). Moreover, it can also implement as the center part 3 becoming gradually high as it goes to both ends from the center. Furthermore, in this embodiment, the height direction of the collar core body 10 (the vertical direction in FIG. 1A) is assumed to have uniform flexibility, but the height direction of the collar core body 10 is Even the flexibility can be changed. For example, the lower half of the collar 2 is approximately as flexible as the center 3, and the upper half of the collar 2 is higher than the central 3. It can also be carried out as having the above-mentioned characteristics, and further, it can be carried out so as to gradually increase the flexibility as it goes upward.

(Material of collar core body 10)
The collar core body 10 can be constituted by various flexible sheets such as synthetic leather, nonwoven fabric, woven fabric, knitted fabric, and film, as in the case of a conventional collar core. Moreover, the material which comprises these sheets can select and use suitably the material of various materials, such as a synthetic fiber, a natural fiber, a synthetic resin, and these composites.

The collar core body 10 can be implemented as a single-layer structure, but in this example, it is implemented as a laminated structure in which a plurality of sheets are bonded together.
The layer structure of the laminated structure can be implemented with various modifications. Examples thereof are shown in FIGS.

In the example of FIG. 1B, the central portion 3 has a six-layer structure of a front side layer 11, a first inner layer 12, a first adjustment layer 13, a second adjustment layer 14, a second inner layer 15 and a back side layer 16. The neck portion 2 has a four-layer structure of a front side layer 11, a first inner layer 12, a second inner layer 15, and a back side layer 16.
The front side layer 11 and the back side layer 16 constitute the front and back surfaces of the collar core body 10, and by using a material having higher slipperiness than the first inner layer 12 and the second inner layer 15, Can be carried out smoothly. Specifically, it can be formed of a polyester fabric, but other synthetic fibers such as polyamide, natural fibers, or the like can be used, or a sheet of another material can be selected and used.

The first inner layer 12 and the second inner layer 15 are laminated on the inner side of the front side layer 11 and the second inner layer 15 and are made of synthetic leather. In this synthetic leather, as represented by Clarino (registered trademark), a surface layer corresponding to a silver surface layer of natural leather is formed by a dense sponge layer of polyurethane, and a base layer corresponding to a net-like layer of natural leather Is preferably composed of a high-molecular-weight material such as a fiber bonded body and polyurethane elastomer as a binder, which has flexibility (flexibility) and has characteristics such as high ventilation and moisture permeability. Can be used.

Although the 1st adjustment layer 13 and the 2nd adjustment layer 14 are comprised with the textile fabric made from polyester, what shows the softness | flexibility which differs in the vertical direction and a horizontal direction (longitudinal direction) is used. Specifically, there is elasticity in the vertical direction, and soft and highly flexible ones are used in the horizontal direction. Thus, although the 1st adjustment layer 13 and the 2nd adjustment layer 14, and the front side layer 11 and the back side layer 16 are the textile fabrics made from the same polyester, what differs in the function is employ | adopted. In addition, other synthetic fibers such as polyamide, natural fibers, or the like can be used, or sheets of other materials can be selected and used.
Each of these layers can be laminated and integrated by fusion with an adhesive, heat, ultrasonic waves, or the like, but may be integrated by sewing or the like.

In the collar tip portion 2, the first adjustment layer 13 and the second adjustment layer 14 among the above layers are not used, and the configuration is made of four layers, so that the flexibility is higher than that of the central portion 3. It is in a state. In addition, in this example, the transition portion 4 is disposed on the base end side of the collar tip portion 2 in order to suppress the occurrence of a step on the front and back surfaces due to a decrease in the number of layers from six layers to four layers. . The transition portion 4 is obtained by offsetting the first adjustment layer 13 and the second adjustment layer 14 in the lateral direction by about 1 cm. In the left and right transition portions 4, the first adjustment layer 13 and the second adjustment layer 14 It has a five-layer structure in which only one of them is arranged. However, this transition portion 4 is not essential, and can be implemented without offsetting the first adjustment layer 13 and the second adjustment layer 14 as shown in FIG.

In the forefront of the collar tip 2, the engaging members 41 and 42 may be attached. Therefore, consideration is given to securing the engagement members 41 and 42 by arranging the reinforcing layer 17 at the forefront of the collar 2. The material of the reinforcing layer 17 can be variously changed under the condition that it has a reinforcing performance, but a synthetic fabric such as polyester can be used. The reinforcing layer 17 only needs to include a fixing portion of the engaging members 41 and 42, and may be a region slightly inside the leading edge.

FIG. 1D shows an example in which the adjustment layer is implemented by only one layer (first adjustment layer 13).
FIG. 1 (E) shows an example in which the adjustment layer is one layer (first adjustment layer 13) and the front side layer 11 and the back side layer 16 are not used. The central portion 3 is constituted by three layers of the two inner layers 15 and the first adjustment layer 13, and only two layers of the first inner layer 12 and the second inner layer 15 are used in the collar tip portion 2.

As described above, the layer structure can be variously changed. In addition to making the layer structure different between the collar tip portion 2 and the central portion 3, the thickness of each layer can be changed between the collar tip portion 2 and the central portion 3. The material of the layer to be used may be different between the collar tip portion 2 and the central portion 3.

(Means of different flexibility)
The collar portion 2 and the central portion 3 have different flexibility as described above. The following can be illustrated as specific means for making the flexibility different.
(A) The collar tip portion 2 and the central portion 3 have different thicknesses.
(B) The number of layers of the collar tip portion 2 and the central portion 3 is different.
(C) The material of the collar portion 2 and the central portion 3 is different.
(D) It is set as the combination of 2 types or 3 types of said (A)-(C).

(Means to make flexibility different (A))
The means (A) is achieved by making the thickness of the collar tip portion 2 smaller than the thickness of the central portion 3. FIGS. 1B and 1C show this example. Specifically, the thickness of the collar portion 2 is 2 mm, the thickness of the central portion 3 is 2.5 mm, and the difference is 0.5 mm. It is what. This numerical value can be appropriately changed according to the type of material and the lengths of both parts 2 and 3, but the thickness of the collar part 2 is 1.8 mm to 2.0 mm, and the central part 3 It is appropriate that the thickness is 2.3 mm to 2.5 mm, and the difference is 0.3 mm to 0.7 mm, more preferably 0.5 mm.

When the collar portion 2 and the central portion 3 are composed of a plurality of layers, the thickness of at least one layer (the total thickness in the case of a one-layer structure) is changed in the longitudinal direction. Can be implemented. For example, in the case of a laminate of a soft layer made of a highly flexible material and a hard layer made of a less flexible material, the object may be achieved by changing only the thickness of the hard layer. It is also desirable to change the thickness gradually, rather than changing it with steps.

(Means to make flexibility different (B))
The means (B) described above is achieved by making the number of layers constituting the collar tip portion 2 smaller than the number of layers in the central portion 3. For example, the collar tip 2 can be a single layer and the central portion 3 can be two layers, the collar tip 2 can be two layers and the central portion 3 can be three layers, and the difference in the number of layers Two or more layers can also be used. In addition, about the layer to reduce, it is also desirable to reduce thickness gradually and to make a layer lose | disappear.

(Means for different flexibility (C))
The above means (C) is carried out by making the material constituting the collar tip portion 2 a material having higher flexibility than the material constituting the central portion 3. For example, even in the same synthetic leather, the synthetic leather with high flexibility and the relatively hard synthetic leather with strong stiffness are offered to the market, and these materials are combined in the neck part 2 and the central part 3. The flexibility of the collar tip portion 2 can be made higher than the flexibility of the central portion 3.

(Means to make flexibility different (D))
Said (A)-(C) does not need to employ | adopt independently mutually, and can implement it combining 2 types or 3 types. For example, taking the case of adopting the means (B) as an example, under the condition that the thickness of each layer is the same between the collar tip portion 2 and the central portion 3, the collar tip portion 2 with a reduced number of layers. Since the overall thickness is smaller than that of the central portion 3, the result of using the means (A) is also used, and the number of layers can be reduced and the thickness of each layer itself can be reduced.

For example, when the central portion 3 is a hard layer and a soft layer, and the collar tip portion 2 is only one soft layer, the thickness of the soft layer of the collar tip portion 2 is increased, The thickness of the whole part 3 and the collar part 2 can be made the same, or the thickness of the center part 3 can be made smaller than the thickness of the collar part 2.

(Other structures of the collar core)
The collar core 1 has the following configuration in addition to the structure of the collar core body 10. First, the engagement members 41 and 42 of the collar core 1 are for closing the opening between the left and right ends of the collar 51 of the collar collar 5 so that the hook 41 and the hook 41 can be detachably engaged. The engaging portion 42 is formed.

The insignia hole 43 of the collar core 1 is used to pass the axis of the insignia when the insignia is attached to the collar 51 of the collar collar 5, and is implemented as a through hole such as a circular small hole or a long slot-shaped long hole. can do. These inscription holes 43 are formed in the left and right sides of the collar core body 10 so as to penetrate from the front side layer 11 to the back side layer 16. Thus, by providing the insignia hole 43 in advance, when attaching the insignia to the collar 51 of the collar collar 5, the holes are formed only in the outer fabric 52 and the inner fabric 53 of the collar 51 of the collar collar 5. It only has to be formed, and the work of attaching the insignia can be made easy.

(Stuffed collar clothes)
As shown in FIG. 2, the collar core 1 is sewn in an overlapping manner between an outer fabric 52 that forms the outer surface of a collar 51 of the collar collar 5 and an inner fabric 53 that forms an inner surface. By this sewing, the entire collar core 1 excluding the hook 41 and the engaging portion 42 is covered with the outer fabric 52 and the inner fabric 53, and the collar 51 of the full collar clothing 5 is formed.

In this stuffed collar garment 5, the flexibility of the collar core 1 (collar core body 10) serving as the core of the collar 51 is higher in the collar tip portion 2 than in the central portion 3. As a result, it is possible to suppress the occurrence of cramping due to the hardness of the neck (particularly in the vicinity of the throat and chin) by the relatively flexible collar portion 2, and at the same time, the hardness of the central portion 3 can be reduced, for example. For example, it may be suitable for improving shape retention, and the hardness according to the purpose of the full collar clothes 5 may be achieved. As a result, it is possible to simultaneously solve the problems that are difficult to achieve both the improvement of the appearance style and the improvement of the wearing feeling.

Examples are shown below to enhance the understanding of the present invention.
In this embodiment, a collar core body 10 having a layer structure shown in FIG. 1B is prepared, and the difference in flexibility between the collar tip portion 2 and the central portion 3 is confirmed. The laminated structure of the collar core body is a polyester fiber woven fabric for the front side layer 11 and the back side layer 16, synthetic leather for the first inner layer 12 and the second inner layer, and polyester fiber for the first adjustment layer 13 and the second adjustment layer 14. Woven fabric.

A sample piece 62 of the same four-layer structure (front side layer 11, first inner layer 12, second inner layer 15 and back side layer 16) as the entire collar portion 2, and a six-layer structure (front side) as the entire center portion 3. Two types of samples were prepared: a sample piece 63 of layer 11, first inner layer 12, first adjustment layer 13, second adjustment layer 14, second inner layer 15 and back side layer 16). In both cases, the length was 100 mm and the width was 20 mm. The base end side 10 mm was used as the fixed end 64, and a weight 65 having a diameter of 10 mm and a weight of 10 g was fixed to the tip end side.

As shown in FIG. 3, after fixing the fixed end 64 of each sample piece 62, 63 to a surface perpendicular to the horizontal reference surface 61 and guiding it to a surface opposite to the weight 65, Gently let go and let it stand still. The height h from the reference surface of each sample piece 62, 63 in a stationary state was measured.
In the sample piece 62 having the same four-layer structure as the collar tip portion 2, the height h = −8 mm and showing a negative value, the sample piece 62 having the same six-layer structure as the central portion 3 In that case, the height h was +16 mm, indicating a positive value.

Thereby, in the collar core main body of the Example, it was confirmed that the collar tip part 2 was higher in flexibility than the central part 3.

DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 1 ... Collar core 2 ... Collar tip part 3 ... Center part 4 ... Transition part 5 ... Stuffed collar clothes 10 ... Collar core main body 11 ... Front side layer 12 ... 1st inner layer 13 ... 1st adjustment layer 14 ... 2nd adjustment layer 15 ... 2nd inner layer 16 ... back side layer 17 ... reinforcement layer 41 ... hook (engagement member)
42 ... engaging portion (engaging member)
43 ... hole for insignia 51 ... collar 52 ... outer fabric 53 ... inner fabric

Claims (6)

In the belt-like collar core that is placed inside the collar
The collar core includes a collar portion at both ends in the longitudinal direction, and a central portion disposed between both collar tips,
The collar core is composed of a multi-layer laminated structure,
The collar tip includes a transition portion near the center,
The thickness of the laminated structure is reduced in the order of the center portion, the transition portion, the collar tip portion,
The collar tip portion, the longitudinal flexibility, Tsumeeri clothing collar core, characterized in that it is intended to have a high region than the longitudinal flexibility of the central portion. With a layer of natural or synthetic fabric and a layer of synthetic leather,
The synthetic leather layer is arranged over the entire length of the collar core in the longitudinal direction,
The central portion comprises the fabric layer,
The synthetic leather layer and the fabric layer have the same length in the longitudinal direction perpendicular to the longitudinal direction,
The collar core of a full-collared garment according to claim 1, wherein the fabric layer has a higher flexibility in the longitudinal direction than that in the longitudinal direction . In the belt-like collar core that is placed inside the collar
The collar core includes a collar portion at both ends in the longitudinal direction, and a central portion disposed between both collar tips,
The collar core is composed of a multi-layer laminated structure,
The collar tip includes a transition portion near the center,
In the central portion and the transition portion, an adjustment layer made of a polyester fabric is disposed,
The polyester fabric has a higher flexibility in the longitudinal direction than that in the vertical direction perpendicular to the longitudinal direction,
The adjustment layer is offset in the position of the tip in the longitudinal direction, so that the number of adjustment layers is smaller in the transition portion than in the central portion,
The collar core of a full-collared garment characterized in that the collar tip portion has a region in which the flexibility in the longitudinal direction is higher than the flexibility in the longitudinal direction of the central portion. The collar tip has a thickness of 1.8 mm to 2.0 mm,
The central portion has a thickness of 2.3 mm to 2.5 mm,
The difference between the thickness of the collar tip portion and the thickness of the central portion is 0.3 mm to 0.7 mm,
The collar core of a full-fitting collar according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the transition portion has a length in the longitudinal direction of the collar core shorter than that of the collar tip portion and the central portion . The collar ends on the both ends are provided with engagement members that are detachably engaged with each other at their most distal ends,
The number of layers of the laminated structure is reduced in the order of the central portion, the transition portion, the collar portion,
The collar core of the collar collar according to any one of claims 1 to 4 , wherein the collar tip portion has a reinforcing layer at a position where the most advanced engagement portion is attached. A full collar clothing comprising the collar core according to claim 1.

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