JP5809377B1 - Fabric manufacturing method - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention provides a woven fabric having a large pattern bulge height and a high design effect. A woven fabric according to the present invention includes a base fabric formed by weaving shrinkable wefts composed of urethane fibers having a draft ratio of 2 or more into warps, and at least a part of the base fabric. A non-shrinkable weft is connected to a warp in a predetermined position, and a pattern fabric composed of only non-shrinkage wefts is provided. It is characterized in that the surface of the pattern fabric bulged from the fabric and subjected to a predetermined treatment is flattened. [Selection] Figure 1A

Description

  The present invention relates to a woven fabric in which various patterns (patterns) are woven on a fabric (base fabric), and more particularly, to a woven fabric in which a patterned fabric composed of only wefts is connected to a base fabric.

Fabrics woven with natural fiber yarns such as silk, cotton, wool, and man-made fiber yarns such as human silk hardly shrink even when heat is applied after weaving. In contrast, fabrics woven with artificial fiber yarns such as nylon and urethane shrink by heat treatment after weaving.
Therefore, a non-shrinkable fiber yarn is used as a warp, and a combination of the shrinkable fiber yarn and the non-shrinkable fiber yarn is used as a weft. Various patterns (patterns) are woven into the base fabric and heat-treated after weaving to produce the shrinkable fiber yarn. The bulging pattern can be formed by causing the pattern to float from the base fabric.
Patent Document 1 describes the structure of a bulging pattern fabric produced in this way.

Japanese Utility Model Publication No. 35-22176

In the woven fabric described in Patent Document 1, nylon or vinylon fiber is adopted as the shrinkable fiber yarn. In this case, even if heat treatment is performed after weaving and shrinkage is performed, the shrinkage rate is only about 10%, so that the pattern rises (swells) slightly and the design effect is low.
It is an object of the present invention to provide a woven fabric having a high design effect with a high pattern height (bulge height).

The inventor of the present application, as a result of intensive investigations for fiber yarns having a high shrinkage rate, conceived that the above object can be achieved by using urethane fibers having a draft ratio of 2 or more as shrinkable weft yarns. Invented the invention.
The woven fabric according to the first aspect of the present invention includes at least a base fabric formed by weaving shrinkable wefts composed of urethane fibers having a draft ratio of 2 or more into warp yarns, and at least a part of the base fabric. A non-shrinkable weft is connected to a warp at a predetermined position of the fabric, and a pattern fabric composed of only the non-shrinkable weft is provided. After weaving the pattern fabric on the base fabric, the shrinkable weft is contracted to form a pattern fabric. Is characterized by flattening the surface of the pattern fabric bulged from the base fabric and subjected to a predetermined treatment.

The woven fabric according to the second aspect of the present invention is characterized in that, in the woven fabric according to the first aspect, as a predetermined treatment, the surface of the swelled pattern fabric is heated and pressed or cut by a predetermined length. And
The woven fabric according to the third aspect of the present invention is characterized in that the connection position between the shrinkable weft and the warp is selected so that the bulge height of the patterned fabric from the base fabric is multistage.
The woven fabric according to the fourth aspect of the present invention is characterized in that a patterned fabric is organized on one side of a base fabric.
The woven fabric according to the fifth aspect of the present invention is characterized in that a patterned fabric is organized on both sides of a base fabric.

  In the method for producing a woven fabric of the present invention, a base fabric is structured by weaving shrinkable wefts composed of urethane fibers having a draft ratio of 2 or more into warps, and at a predetermined position of the base fabric in at least a part of the base fabric. A non-shrinkable weft is attached to the warp yarns, and a patterned fabric is organized with the non-shrinkable weft alone. The surface of the swelled pattern fabric is heated and pressed or cut by a predetermined length and flattened.

  In the present invention, since the bulging height of the patterned fabric from the base fabric is large, a sufficient space is ensured between the patterned fabric and the base fabric, so that a woven fabric having a high design property can be provided.

The figure which shows the surface design of the woven fabric which concerns on an Example. The figure which shows the back design of the woven fabric which concerns on an Example. The figure which shows an example of the cross-sectional structure of the woven fabric when cut | disconnecting along XX 'of FIG. The figure which shows the other example of the cross-section of the woven fabric when cut | disconnecting along XX 'of FIG. The figure which shows the further another example of the cross-sectional structure of the woven fabric when cut | disconnecting along XX 'of FIG. The figure which shows the further another example of the cross-sectional structure of the woven fabric when cut | disconnecting along XX 'of FIG. The schematic structure figure of the shearing (cut) machine used for this invention.

In the present invention, urethane fiber is used as the shrinkable weft.
That is, the urethane fiber is stretched so that the draft ratio is 2 or more, and the non-shrinkable fiber (for example, polyester processed yarn, polyamide processed yarn (nylon), cupra, polyethylene, cotton, wool, acrylic, Twist it with rayon, hemp, silk, acetate). Furthermore, the shrinkable weft used in the present invention can be obtained by fixing with glue and stabilizing the draft ratio to 2 or more.
In addition, since the bulging height from the base fabric of the pattern fabric by the subsequent shrinkage treatment can be increased as the draft ratio is larger, it can be arbitrarily determined as necessary. If the draft ratio is less than 2, it is difficult to sufficiently increase the bulge height.

Hereinafter, embodiments of the woven fabric according to the present invention will be described with reference to the accompanying drawings.
FIG. 1A is a diagram showing a front design of a woven fabric according to the present invention, and FIG. 1B is a diagram showing a back design.
The woven fabric 10 is structured such that a surface pattern fabric 200a is connected to the front side 100a of a partial region of the base fabric 100, and a back pattern fabric 200b is connected to the back side 100b. In the embodiment shown in FIGS. 1A and 1B, the front pattern fabric 200a forms a bulge pattern by shrinkage of the weft, but the back pattern fabric 200b bulges because the structure becomes slightly dense due to the shrinkage of the weft. It is not a pattern. The back pattern fabric 200b can also be organized to form a bulging pattern, which will be described later.

  FIG. 2 is a diagram showing a cross-sectional structure of the woven fabric when the woven fabric 10 shown in FIG. 1 is cut along XX ′, where “a” indicates a state after weaving, “b” contracts a shrinkable weft, The pattern fabric is raised (bulged) from the base fabric. In addition, c is a state in which the surface of the pattern fabric in the state of b is cut and flattened by a predetermined length, and d is a state in which the surface of the pattern fabric in the state of b is flattened by heating and pressing. Show.

In the present invention, two types of wefts, that is, the shrinkable wefts 20 and 22 and the non-shrinkable wefts 30 and 32, are used as the wefts woven into the warp yarns (indicated by ●). The shrinkable wefts 20 and 22 are urethane fiber yarns processed as described above. As will be described later, after weaving, the paste is removed by scouring, dry heat treatment and / or rearrangement, and shrinkage is applied by heat treatment.
Non-shrinkable wefts 30 and 32 are yarns made of low-shrinkage fibers such as polyester-processed yarn, polyamide-processed yarn (nylon), cupra, polyethylene, cotton, wool, acrylic, rayon, hemp, silk, and acetate. Thus, the yarn does not shrink due to scouring after weaving, dry heat treatment and / or rearrangement, or has a very low degree of shrinkage.
The warp (●) should be non-shrinkable.

In the present invention, the base fabrics 100a and 100b are structured by weaving shrinkable wefts into warps (●). As shown in FIG. 2a, two types of shrinkable wefts 20 and 22 are used to form a yarn set with the warp yarn (● mark).
The base fabric can be organized by a weave or twill. In the example shown in FIG. 2, the warp (●) and the wefts 20 and 22 are woven (or plain weave) that are alternately raised and lowered, but are regularly raised and lowered with two warps. A twill weave may be used, or a mixed weave may be used, which is a mixture of cocoon and twill.

  The pattern fabric 200a has non-shrinkable wefts 30 and 32 in a predetermined position on the base fabric (warp positions -10, -9, -6, -5, -2, -1, 2, 3, 6, 7, 10 , 11) and organized with satin weaving. In this specification, the satin weave structure includes regular satin weaves such as 5 satin, 8 satin, 12 satin, etc., depending on the number of warp jumps, 3 satin, 6 satin, 7 It is defined to include single satin and their mixed irregular satin weaving, heavy satin weaving and the like.

In the embodiment shown in FIG. 2, each of the wefts 30 and 32 has a satin weave structure of three satin.
The base fabric and the patterned fabric 200a are integrally woven by a Jacquard loom. The pattern fabric 200a and the base fabric are connected without being separated from each other. As described above, the patterned fabric 200a is composed only of wefts, and is structured by being connected to a predetermined warp of the base fabric.
After weaving, when shrinkage processing of the shrinkable wefts 20 and 22 described later is performed, as shown in FIG. 2b, the satin-woven pattern portion of the surface pattern fabric 200a is connected to the base fabric (−10, −9, − 6, -5, -2, -1,2,3,6,7,10,11) and floats up from the base fabric. As a result, a space is formed between the patterned fabric 200a and the base fabric.

In this state, it may be used as a woven fabric with a pattern. However, in the case of the present invention, the raised height (bulge height) is large, so that an object is caught on the bulging portion, and the woven fabric is frayed or torn. It may end up. Therefore, it is necessary to flatten the surface by cutting off a part of the bulging portion or pressing the bulging portion to prevent them.
A conventional method for preventing fraying and tearing of a woven fabric is a method called “cutting off”. In this method, a cutting tool is inserted into a bag-like space of a patterned fabric and a part thereof is cut. This “cutting-off” operation is a manual operation because it is a very time-consuming operation, which has the disadvantage of not only increasing the manufacturing cost of the woven fabric but also inferior in design.

In the present invention, in order to improve the conventional method by such manual work, the shrinkable wefts are contracted after weaving, and the leading end portion of the bulging portion is automatically cut by a shearing machine.
As a result, a woven fabric excellent in design can be provided without increasing the manufacturing cost.
FIG. 2c shows a state in which the tips 30a and 30b indicated by dotted lines of the swelled shrinkable wefts 30 and 32 on the surface of the pattern fabric 200a are cut and flattened. This mowing is performed by a method called shearing (cut).

FIG. 6 is a schematic structural diagram of a shearing (cutting) machine 600.
The shearing machine 600 includes a base 60, a support base 61 that fixes the receiving blade 62 on the base 60, a rotating roll blade 63 that rotates in proximity to the receiving blade 62, and a mounting table on which the woven fabric 70 is placed. 64, rotating rolls 66a and 66b for moving the woven cloth 70 on the mounting table 64, and rotating rolls 65a and 65b for moving through the woven cloth 70 after shearing.
The mounting table 64 is movable, and the cut length can be adjusted by adjusting the distance from the receiving blade 62. More specifically, the surface of the woven fabric 70 is vacuumed (vacuum) in the vicinity of the rotary roll blade 63 and the receiving blade 62 to stand up the fibers in the bulging portion, and the raised fibers are used as the rotary roll blade 60. It is better to cut in between the teeth so that only the cut length enters.
As a method for flattening the surface of the pattern fabric after the swelling, a heating press may be performed instead of the above-mentioned shearing. Moreover, you may use shearing and a heating press together.
FIG. 2d shows a state in which the surfaces 30b and 32b of the non-shrink wefts 30 and 32 are flattened by a heating press.

FIG. 3 shows another embodiment in which the patterned fabric 200a is structured only on one side (for example, the front surface) of the base fabric as in FIG. The structure of the base fabric is the same as the embodiment shown in FIG. The configuration of the pattern fabric 200a is different from that of the embodiment shown in FIG.
When such an irregular satin weave structure is used, the bulge height of the patterned fabric 200a from the base fabric becomes multistage. In the case of the present embodiment, as shown in FIG. 3b, there are two stages: a portion where the bulge height formed by the weft 32 is large and a portion where the bulge height formed by the weft 30 is small.
In FIG. 3c, a portion 32a having a large bulge height is cut away, and the portion 30 having a small bulge height is left as it is to perform flattening.
FIG. 3d shows a state where the surface 32b is flattened by a heating press at a portion where the bulge height is large.

FIG. 4 shows an embodiment in which patterned fabrics 200a and 200b are organized on both surfaces (front and back surfaces) of the base fabric, unlike FIG. 2 and FIG.
The structure of the base fabric is the same as the embodiment shown in FIGS.
As shown in FIG. 4a, the patterned fabrics 200a and 200b bind the non-shrinkable wefts 30 and 32 to the warp yarns (warp positions -10, -6, -2, 2, 6, 10) at predetermined positions on the base fabric. And organized by Masanori Ako.
When weaving the shrinkable wefts 20 and 22 after weaving, as shown in FIG. 4b, the pattern portions of the front pattern fabric 200a and the back pattern fabric 200b are connected to the base fabric (−10, −6, −2, 2,6,10).
Since the flattening process after the pattern fabric bulges is the same as that of the embodiment shown in FIGS. 2 and 3, detailed description thereof is omitted. Note that the flattening process may be performed on both sides or on one side (the front surface or the back surface).

FIG. 5 organizes pattern fabrics 200a and 200b on both sides of the base fabric as in FIG. 4, but differs from FIG. 4 in that the design of the pattern fabric is different between the front and back sides.
As shown in FIG. 5a, the front pattern fabric 200a connects the non-shrinkable weft 32 with warps (warp positions -10, -6, -2, 2, 6, 10) at predetermined positions on the base fabric. The patterned fabric 200b is structured by connecting the non-shrinkable weft 30 to warps (warp positions -10, -5, 0, 5, 10) at predetermined positions on the base fabric. When the shrinkage treatment is performed after weaving, the pattern portion of the front pattern fabric 200a is connected to the connection point (−10, −6, −2, 2, 6, 10) to the base fabric as shown in FIG. The pattern portion of the back pattern fabric 200b floats in a state where it is connected to the base fabric at connection points (−10, −5, 0, 5, 10). The subsequent flattening process is the same as in the above-described embodiment.

Next, the shrinking process of the shrinkable wefts 20 and 22 after weaving will be described.
The woven fabric after weaving is usually subjected to (1) scouring, (2) dry heat (warm air) treatment, (3) water repellent finishing, and (4) rearrangement finishing.
Hereinafter, the content and procedure of scouring, dry heat treatment, water repellent processing, and organizing processing will be described.

(1) Scouring: The woven fabric contains impurities such as glue and oil used when weaving. In this process, the impurities are removed and the dough is placed in hot water at around 75 ° C. in a room heat environment. Even if it is the cloth | dough containing the urethane fiber to which an oil component tends to adhere generally by this process, impurities, such as the oil component, are washed. In addition, the urethane fiber that has been hardened and stretched with glue contracts by the removal of the glue. At this point, the urethane fiber is apt to change in terms of stretch and is unstable.
(2) Dry heat (warm air) treatment: In order to remove moisture from the dough whose impurities have been purified by scouring, it is a process of hanging by a machine such as a boiler or drying in the sun (natural drying). The urethane fiber containing moisture further shrinks rather than being dried.
(3) Water repellent treatment: a step of immersing a water repellent liquid composed of a resin or the like at around 40 ° C. twice. As a result, the water repellent is fixed to the surface of the fabric and repels moisture.
(4) Arrangement processing: Drying with hot air at a temperature of about 165 ° C. or more to fix the water repellent liquid. This high-temperature drying step (heat setting) further improves the water repellency, and the urethane fibers are further shrunk and fixed to stabilize the stretch.
The contraction process in the present invention includes the above (1), (2), (3), and (4).

  As mentioned above, although this invention was demonstrated based on the Example, this invention is not limited to the above-mentioned Example, A various deformation | transformation and application are possible.

10: Woven fabric 20, 22: Shrinkable weft 30, 32: Non-shrinkable weft 100a, 100b: Base fabric 200a: Front fabric 200b: Back fabric

Claims (7)

A base fabric formed by weaving shrinkable wefts made of urethane fibers having a draft ratio of 2 or more into warps;
In at least a partial region of the base fabric, a non-shrinkable weft is connected to a warp at a predetermined position of the base fabric, and a patterned fabric organized only by the non-shrinkable weft,
After weaving the patterned fabric on the base fabric, the shrinkable wefts are contracted to bulge the patterned fabric from the base fabric and to perform a predetermined treatment to flatten the surface of the patterned fabric. A method for producing a woven fabric. In the manufacturing method of the woven fabric of Claim 1,
The method for producing a woven fabric , characterized in that the predetermined treatment heat-presses the surface of the swelled pattern fabric. In the manufacturing method of the woven fabric of Claim 1,
The method for producing a woven fabric , wherein the predetermined treatment cuts the surface of the swelled patterned fabric by a predetermined length. In the manufacturing method of the woven fabric of Claim 1,
A method for producing a woven fabric , characterized in that the connection position between the shrinkable weft and the warp is selected so that the bulge height of the patterned fabric from the base fabric is multistage. In the manufacturing method of the woven fabric of Claim 1,
A method for producing a woven fabric, wherein the patterned fabric is organized on one side of the base fabric. In the manufacturing method of the woven fabric of Claim 1,
A method for producing a woven fabric, wherein the patterned fabric is organized on both sides of the base fabric. At least a shrinkable weft made of urethane fiber with a draft ratio of 2 or more is woven into the warp to form a base fabric,
In at least a partial region of the base fabric, a non-shrinkable weft is bound to a warp at a predetermined position of the base fabric, and a pattern fabric is organized using only the non-shrinkable weft,
After weaving the patterned fabric on the base fabric, the shrinkable wefts are contracted to bulge the patterned fabric from the base fabric, and the surface of the bulged patterned fabric is heated and pressed or is a predetermined length. A method for producing a woven fabric, characterized by cutting and flattening.

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