JP5485687B2 - Woven knitting - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a woven or knitted fabric that has been molded, and more particularly to a woven or knitted fabric that has been provided with moldability by using heat-bonded polyurethane elastic fibers.

  Attempts to impart moldability to woven fabrics and knitted fabrics by arranging thermoplastic fibers are well known, and Patent Document 1 (Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2001-98446) discloses polyurethane elasticity having a high heat setting rate. A technique for performing molding using fibers is disclosed in Patent Document 2 (Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 2006-225817), which discloses a technique for performing molding using nylon fibers.

However, in any case, the substantial mold processability was not sufficient.
Since the molding process is performed by applying excessive heat, the thermoplastic fiber of the surface yarn is hardened, feels bad, and sometimes becomes crisp.

  The technique described in Patent Document 2 is based on the premise that when molding a woven or knitted fabric containing elastic fibers, synthetic fibers such as nylon and polyester having high thermoplasticity are mixed as the surface yarn and processed at a high temperature. . This is because the synthetic fibers used for mixing are set at a certain rate by heat to suppress the shrinking force of the shared polyurethane elastic fiber. In fabrics mainly made of natural fibers and recycled fibers that are not thermoplastic. Mold processing was impossible.

  In addition, if the dyed fabric is molded, the dye sublimates due to the heat during the molding process, so the color of the processed area may change or the fastness may deteriorate. Only a low one was obtained. Moreover, since it yellowed by heat, it could not be used for light-colored fabrics. For this reason, even though only a part of the molded fabric can be cut out and used, only a part of the integrated fabric can be molded and used as it is.

  Furthermore, when molding a fabric mainly composed of natural fibers and regenerated fibers and not containing polyurethane elastic fibers, it is necessary to apply heat of 200 ° C. or higher, which causes yellowing of the natural fibers and regenerated fibers. Furthermore, when polyurethane elastic fibers are used in combination, shrinkage occurs due to the elasticity of polyurethane, and therefore, it is substantially impossible to mold with natural fibers, recycled fibers, and fabrics using polyurethane elastic fibers.

Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 2008-138298 (Patent Document 3) discloses a technique for performing mold processing using a thread excellent in low-temperature setting property.
However, although this yarn has excellent formability from a low temperature region, the appropriate range of processing temperature is narrow, so there are many restrictions in the dyeing process for creating a base fabric for molding, and the fibers that can be shared are limited. In addition, if the heat treatment temperature or the mold processing temperature at the time of creating the base fabric is shifted to a higher temperature side, there is a problem that the polyurethane elastic fiber is broken. Due to the yarn breakage of the polyurethane elastic fiber, the molded fabric easily loses its shape, does not have stretchability, and is inferior in appearance.

  In the woven or knitted fabric including the polyurethane elastic fiber, the present applicant has also proposed a technique for achieving heat setting property, prevention of misalignment, and the like by using the heat-bonded polyurethane elastic fiber (Patent Documents 4 and 5). This technology has been limited to prevention of misalignment and fraying.

JP 2001-98446 A JP 2006-225817 A JP 2008-138298 A International Publication No. 2004-53218 JP 2007-182649 A

  The present invention solves the problems of the prior art, and can obtain mold processability even if it contains natural fibers having no thermoplasticity or recycled fibers, and has low heat resistance, such as nylon and polypropylene. It is an object of the present invention to provide a technique that enables molding of a light-colored fabric without causing the fabric after processing to yellow or harden even in a woven or knitted fabric including thermoplastic fibers such as the above.

As a result of intensive studies to achieve the above-mentioned problems, the present inventor can obtain mold processability even when used in combination with non-thermoplastic natural fiber or recycled fiber by mixing heat-fusion polyurethane. The present invention has been completed.
That is, the present invention is based on the following technique.

(1)
A woven or knitted fabric made of a yarn including a polyurethane elastic fiber and at least one type of non-elastic fiber, and molded, and has a heat-sealing force of 1.5 cN / dtex or more at least 17 dtex on at least a part of the polyurethane elastic fiber A molded woven or knitted fabric characterized in that a heat-sealable polyurethane elastic fiber is used, at least part of which is heat-sealed, and molded at 120 to 190 ° C.

(2) mixing ratio of raw ground polyurethane elastic fiber is not less than 5%, and said heat fusion polyurethane elastic fiber mixing ratio in the polyurethane elastic fiber is characterized in that at least 50% (1) according Woven knitting.

(3) The knitted or knitted fabric according to (1) or (2) above, wherein after the dyeing process, the discoloration grade of the fabric subjected to mold processing is grade 3 or higher (based on JIS L0804).

(4) The knitted or knitted fabric according to any one of (1) to (3) above, wherein a molding rate after molding is 20% or more.

  According to the present invention, mold processability can be obtained even when used in combination with non-thermoplastic natural fibers or recycled fibers, and even when thermoplastic fibers such as nylon and polypropylene having low heat resistance are used, It became possible to mold the light colored fabric without yellowing the processed fabric.

The molded knitted or knitted fabric of the present invention has the following operations and effects.
(1) Formability can be ensured without losing the texture of the surface yarn and without curing.
(2) It is possible to use natural fibers and regenerated fibers for the surface yarn, polypropylene fibers that can only be used in low-temperature processing, and yarns with special functions such as cool contact feeling and heat generation.
(3) The grade of discoloration of the fabric after molding is high.
(4) Since the fabric after dyeing is molded, there is little change in texture and yellowing of the fabric, so that all parts can be integrated as a product. That is, it is possible to obtain only a part of the front body, the back body and the like without cutting out a part and performing separate processing and sewing.
(5) Since it is a heat-sealed fabric, it has a fraying, run, and curl-inhibiting effect, and the cut portion can be used without being cut.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in more detail.
The present invention is characterized in that a heat-bonded polyurethane elastic fiber of 17 dtex or more is used at least in part, and at least a part is heat-welded woven or knitted fabric, which is molded at 120 to 190 ° C. To do.

  As long as the heat-sealable polyurethane elastic fiber used in the present invention is a heat-sealable polyurethane elastic fiber capable of heat-sealing the intersection of polyurethane elastic fibers, its composition, production method, etc. are particularly limited. is not.

  For example, a polyol and an excess molar amount of diisocyanate are reacted to produce a polyurethane intermediate polymer having isocyanate groups at both ends, and a low molecular weight diamine having an active hydrogen that can easily react with the isocyanate group of the intermediate polymer. A polyurethane solution (polymer solution) is produced by reacting a molecular weight diol in an inert organic solvent, and then the solvent is removed to form a yarn, or a polyol, a diisocyanate and a low molecular weight diamine or a low molecular weight diol are reacted. A method in which the polymer is solidified and dissolved in a solvent, then the solvent is removed and formed into a yarn, a method in which the solidified polymer is formed into a yarn by heating without dissolving in the solvent, the polyol, diisocyanate, and low molecular weight A polymer is obtained by reacting with a diol, and the yarn is obtained without solidifying the polymer Method of molding, and further, after mixing the resulting polymer or polymer solution in each of the above methods, and a method of forming into the solvent is removed yarn from the mixed polymer solution.

  Among these, (A) both-end isocyanate group prepolymer obtained by reacting polyol and diisocyanate, and (B) both-end hydroxyl group prepolymer obtained by reacting polyol, diisocyanate and low molecular weight diol. And those obtained by melt spinning a polymer obtained by the reaction of This method is economically and environmentally suitable in that it does not involve solvent recovery.

  In addition, since a polymer excellent in alkali resistance can be obtained by using a composition including a polyether polyol of 50% by mass or more in the polyol component in the raw material, there are few condition restrictions when dyeing the common fiber. Therefore, it is preferable.

The heat-sealing performance of the heat-sealing polyurethane elastic fiber used in the present invention is preferably 0.15 cN / dtex or higher , more preferably 0.30 cN / dtex or higher , particularly 1.5 cN / dtex or higher. If the heat fusion force is less than 0.15 cN / dtex, satisfactory mold processability may not be obtained, which is not preferable.

For example, in the case of a knitted fabric, the heat sealing force is measured as follows.
The knitted fabric is cut in the course direction, and the unwoven tension of the polyurethane elastic fiber knitted in the cut portion or the yarn containing the polyurethane elastic fiber is measured. The knitting speed is 100 mm / min, and the average knitting tension for 1 minute is measured. If continuous knitting is possible, measure the average knitting tension before and after heat treatment, and then divide the average knitting tension (cN) after heat treatment by the initial fineness (dtex) of the polyurethane elastic fiber to heat melt. The applied force (cN / dtex). In addition, since the heat sealing force is strong, it may be difficult to disassemble the polyurethane elastic fiber. Needless to say, the heat fusion force in this case is 0.15 cN / dtex or more, and it is determined as “complete fusion”.

  The thickness of the heat-sealable polyurethane elastic fiber used in the present invention is preferably 17 dtex or more, more preferably 22 to 311 dtex, and further preferably 28 dtex to 156 dtex in terms of the texture of the knitted fabric. If the polyurethane elastic fiber is thinner than 22 dtex, the area where the polyurethane elastic fibers are in contact with each other and heat-sealed, that is, the heat-sealing area is narrow, so the fabric setting property is low and the moldability required is low. Since it is difficult to obtain, it is not preferable. Although there is no restriction | limiting in particular about a fine fineness, Since cloth | dough becomes rubber-like, generally there exists a tendency for the finer fineness to be preferred.

The yarn containing the heat-sealable polyurethane elastic fiber used in the present invention is a yarn comprising only the elastic fiber, or a composite yarn such as a covering yarn (single covering yarn, double covering yarn), a twisted yarn, an air entangled yarn, or the like. Also good.
Among them, it is preferable to use a covering yarn that can arrange a heat-sealable polyurethane elastic fiber at the center of the composite yarn and that can easily control the coverage of the heat-sealable polyurethane elastic fiber and can be uniformly coated.

  The non-elastic fiber coated around the heat-sealable polyurethane elastic fiber is not particularly limited. For example, natural fibers such as cotton, hemp, wool, and silk, regenerated fibers such as rayon, cupra, and polynosic, and semi-regenerated fibers such as acetate. Chemical synthetic fibers such as fiber, nylon, polyester, and acrylic can be used.

  The mixing ratio of the heat-sealable polyurethane elastic fibers is preferably such that the mixing ratio of the polyurethane elastic fibers in the fabric is 5% or more, more preferably 8% or more, and further preferably 10% or more. And it is preferable that the heat fusion polyurethane elastic fiber mixing ratio in a polyurethane elastic fiber is 50% or more. By increasing the heat-sealing area between the polyurethane elastic fibers, higher fabric formability can be obtained. More preferably, it is 80% or more, More preferably, it is 100%.

The molded knitted or knitted fabric of the present invention is generally manufactured as follows.
First, at least one type of non-elastic fiber and a heat-bonded polyurethane elastic fiber alone or a composite yarn containing polyurethane elastic fiber is prepared and woven or knitted by weaving, knitting, etc. Alternatively, at least a part of the heat-sealable polyurethane elastic fibers is heat-sealed by heat treatment for molding.

  The woven or knitted fabric of the present invention can be composed of a woven fabric or a knitted fabric depending on the application. When a woven fabric is used, any of plain weave, twill weave, satin weave, etc. may be used. In the case of using a knitted fabric, any known knitting method such as warp knitting or weft knitting can be used as appropriate.

  For example, in the case of a knitted fabric, a material obtained by plating knitting a heat-sealable polyurethane elastic fiber and at least one kind of inelastic fiber is preferable. The knitted fabric obtained by the plating knitting can stably heat-bond the heat-sealable polyurethane elastic fibers to each other at the intersection of the stitches during heat treatment, and can fix the stitches.

  As the weft knitted fabric used in the present invention, a flat knitted fabric, a rubber knitted fabric, a double-sided knitted fabric or the like can be used as appropriate. In particular, a flat knitted fabric has a thin fabric, a needle that is partially elongated by molding, This is preferable because there is no significant change in the shape of the loop and sinker loop.

  The draft magnification of the polyurethane elastic fiber when weaving and knitting the fabric is preferably 1.0 to 3.6 times, more preferably 2.0 to 3.0 times.

Next, the dough is processed in a normal process, for example, scouring-bleaching-presetting-dying-final setting, and then molding is performed.
The mold processing is performed at a temperature of 120 to 190 ° C. Below 120 ° C, moldability is poor. Above 190 ° C, the surface yarn starts to yellow and harden, and the discoloration grade cannot be cleared.

The mold processing method was performed as follows.
<Mold processing jig>
An iron spherical jig (diameter: 105 mm, weight: 1.5 kg) was heated with a dryer, and when the temperature was stable, the jig was pressed against a dough that was left unstretched for 1 minute to form. At this time, the spherical jig was submerged 70 mm. After standing at room temperature for 30 minutes, the indentation depth of the dough was measured, and the ratio to the depth of 70 mm at the time of molding was calculated as the molding rate.

  EXAMPLES Hereinafter, although an Example and a comparative example are shown and this invention is demonstrated concretely, this invention is not restrict | limited to the following Example.

Example 1
The knitted fabric is plated using a circular knitting machine (28 gauge), surface cotton 60/1, and Mobilon R22 dtex to create a plain knitted fabric. After the dyeing process was performed in a normal process, the mold process was performed.
The results are shown in Table 1.

  In the table, Mobilon R is a registered trademark of Nisshinbo Textile Co., Ltd., Roika is a registered trademark of Asahi Kasei Fibers Co., Ltd., and ESPAR is a registered trademark of Toyobo Co., Ltd. Further, bare represents polyurethane elastic fiber bare yarn, SCY represents single covering yarn, PP represents polypropylene, and PU represents polyurethane elastic fiber.

[Examples 2-6, Comparative Examples 1-6]
Examples 2 to 6 and the comparative example were processed in the same manner as in Example 1. Tables 1 and 2 show the fibers used.
Example 2 was processed in the same manner as in Example 1 except that the elastic fiber was used in the following SCY.
Core: heat-bonded polyurethane Mobilon R, sheath: nylon 13dtex
Draft magnification: 2.3 times, twist number 600T / m
When creating the fabric, SCY was knitted at equal magnification.

Examples 2 to 6 were carried out by changing the fineness of the heat-sealable polyurethane elastic fiber and the type of inelastic fiber used together. The case where elastic fibers other than the heat fusion polyurethane elastic fiber were used was used as a comparative example.
The results are shown in Tables 1 and 2.

Table 3 shows the results of tests conducted to confirm the formability of the used yarn.
Polyester 33T10 filament is used for the front yarn, polyurethane elastic fiber shown in the table below is used for the back yarn, pantyhose knitting machine (L416 / R made by Lonati, hook diameter: 4 inches, 400 needles) at a draft magnification of 2.0 times A flat knitted fabric was made by plating. This was stretched 1.2 times with both vertical and horizontal, and heat set at 150 ° C. for 60 seconds to obtain a base fabric. This fabric was evaluated for moldability at 120 ° C. treatment and heat-sealing power of polyurethane elastic fibers.

From Tables 1 and 2, it can be understood that each example of the present invention is excellent in both the forming ratio and the color fading grade. Comparative Examples 1 and 2 were inferior in moldability, and Comparative Examples 4 and 5 were inferior in color fading. In Comparative Example 3, the polyurethane elastic fiber was broken, although the moldability was good.

  According to the present invention, even if natural fibers and recycled fibers having no thermoplasticity are included, mold processability can be obtained, and weaving including thermoplastic fibers such as nylon and polypropylene having low heat resistance. Even in the case of knitted fabrics, it is possible to mold a light-colored fabric without yellowing the processed fabric.

  As a result, excellent moldability for bra cup parts, underwear such as shorts and girdle hips, knitted fabrics for inner sports such as swimwear, and fabrics for outerwear such as bottoms. And design design can be freely performed. Especially because the surface yarn is not hardened, the texture of the fabric is good, and the use of natural fibers and regenerated fibers did not cause skin damage such as rash even when directly touching delicate parts of the skin . Furthermore, in addition to the clothing field, it has become possible to apply to a wide range of uses, such as making a laminated material with elasticity by combining with other materials.

Claims (4)

A woven or knitted fabric composed of a yarn including a polyurethane elastic fiber and at least one non-elastic fiber, and molded,
At least a part of the polyurethane elastic fiber is a heat-sealable polyurethane elastic fiber having a thermal fusing power of 1.5 cN / dtex or more at 17 dtex or more ,
At least part of which is heat-sealed,
A molded woven or knitted fabric characterized by being molded at 120 to 190 ° C. Raw ground of polyurethane elastic fiber mixing ratio is not less than 5%, and, according to claim 1, wherein the woven or knitted fabric, characterized in that heat sealing polyurethane elastic fiber mixing ratio in the polyurethane elastic fiber is 50% or more.   3. The knitted or knitted fabric according to claim 1 or 2, wherein the fabric subjected to mold processing after dyeing processing has a grade of color change of 3 or more (based on JIS L0804). 4. The knitted or knitted fabric according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein a molding rate after molding is 20% or more.