JP4833350B1 - Leather fabric for clothing and manufacturing method thereof, and leather clothing and manufacturing method thereof - Google Patents

Abstract

Kind Code: A1 To provide a leather apparel that can maintain the texture of leather and is manufactured without requiring a lining.
A garment leather fabric 1 used for a leather garment includes a dyed leather fabric 2, resin impregnated surfaces 3 and 4 formed on both sides of the leather fabric 2, and resin impregnated surfaces 3 and 4. It has the water-repellent resin layers 5 and 6 that cover it. The leather fabric 2 is peeled off at a predetermined ground thickness from the leather portion 22 after the silver surface portion 21 and the floor leather portion 23 of the tanned leather 20 obtained by tanning animal natural leather material. The dyeing is performed after buffing both sides. The garment leather fabric 1 after sewing is wrinkled manually after washing with water.
[Selection] Figure 1

Description

  The present invention relates to a leather fabric for clothing obtained by processing animal natural leather suitable for manufacturing clothes, shoes, bags, etc., a method for producing the same, and a fabric produced using the leather fabric for clothing. The present invention relates to a leather apparel made and a method for producing the same.

  In leather apparel, such as leather jackets and leather pants, when the leather is in direct contact with the skin of the wearer, problems such as discoloration of the leather, staining, and transfer to other parts occur due to sweat. In addition, there is a problem that the fluff on the surface of the leather becomes dirty and adheres to other parts. For this reason, in leather apparel, it is necessary to put a lining on the side that contacts the wearer's skin, and leather garments in which each part is finished with a single piece of leather have not been put to practical use.

  Patent Document 1 proposes a fabric-like leather used for leather clothes and a manufacturing method. The fabric-like leather disclosed herein is an animal tanned leather, which is dyed by impregnating a resin on the silver side skin and the opposite side skin, and is embossed to give a woven fabric pattern. Unevenness is given by pressing. When leather garments are finished using a fabric-like leather with this structure, even if the silver side of the epidermis is on the back of the garment and directly touches the skin, there is no sticky feeling, and the skin is not easily touched by sweat or water. It is described that it can be felt freshly (paragraph 0024 of the document).

JP 2000-104100 A

  However, the woven fabric leather described in Patent Document 1 has unevenness on the leather by mechanically embossing both the front surface and the back surface. For this reason, the original texture of leather is impaired, and it is not satisfactory for lovers of leather clothing who prefer the texture of leather.

  An object of the present invention is to propose a leather apparel that maintains the texture of leather and does not require a lining, and a method for producing the leather apparel. Another object of the present invention is to propose a leather fabric for clothing suitable for use in the production of leather clothing and a method for producing the same.

In order to solve the above-mentioned problems, the present invention is a leather apparel manufactured using a leather fabric for clothing cut into a predetermined shape,
Each of the leather fabrics for clothing is
Dyed leather fabric,
A resin-impregnated surface formed on both sides of the leather fabric;
A water repellent resin layer covering at least one of the resin impregnated surfaces in the leather fabric,
The leather fabric is obtained by peeling off the leather part after peeling off the silver surface part and the floor leather part of the tanned leather obtained by tanning the animal's natural leather material at a predetermined ground thickness, It is dyed after buffing both sides,
The water-repellent resin layer of the leather fabric for clothing is formed on the inner surface and outer surface of the clothing facing the skin of the clothing wearer in the leather fabric for clothing,
The garment leather fabric after sewing is characterized by being wrinkled manually after washing.

  In the leather apparel of the present invention, a leather fabric having a predetermined ground thickness is peeled off from the leather portion of the tanned leather after the silver surface portion and the floor leather portion are peeled off, and both surfaces are used as a resin-impregnated surface. . After the leather apparel is sewn using the leather fabric of this configuration, it is washed with water and wrinkled by hand.

  The leather fabric is stripped from the leather portion after removing the high-density silver surface portion and the coarse floor leather portion of the tanned leather, and both surfaces are used as resin-impregnated surfaces. Therefore, the leather fabric is impregnated with a sufficient amount of resin from both sides, and even if washed with water, the form and shape such as curing and shrinkage are reduced from becoming unstable. In addition, wrinkles are made by hand after washing, so unlike the case of unevenness by embossing or other mechanical processing, both sides of the leather fabric are wavy while maintaining the texture of the leather. Can be. As a result, even when the leather fabric is in direct contact with the skin, air permeability can be secured, and the wearer does not feel poor comfort such as a sticky feeling. In addition, a water-repellent resin layer is formed on the inner surface facing the wearer's skin, which absorbs moisture such as sweat and reduces discoloration, stains, etc. The Thus, a comfortable leather apparel can be obtained without requiring a lining.

  Conventionally, when leather products are washed with water, they are hardened and shrunk, so it is common knowledge not to wash them with water. In this invention, while using the predetermined | prescribed site | part in a tanned leather, the leather fabric which can be washed with water is obtained by making the both surfaces into the resin impregnation surface. As a result, it became possible to wrinkle the leather fabric by washing with water, and such a leather processing method could not be considered in the past.

  Here, the leather fabric used in the present invention is preferably goat leather. As animal natural leather, leather such as cows, pigs, deer, sheep, and horses is used. According to experiments by the present inventors, flexibility and fashionability when used as leather fabrics for clothing. From this point of view, goat leather was found to be most suitable.

Next, the present invention is a method for producing a leather apparel having the above-described configuration,
Tanning process to obtain tanned leather by applying non-chrome tanning to animal natural leather material;
From the tanned leather, a stripping step of stripping the silver surface portion and the floor leather portion;
From the leather part after the silver surface part and the floor leather part have been peeled off, a leather stripping step of stripping the leather fabric of a predetermined ground thickness,
A buffing step of buffing both sides of the peeled leather fabric;
A dyeing process for dyeing the leather fabric after buffing;
A grinding step of grinding both sides of the leather fabric after dyeing;
Resin processing step of impregnating or applying resin on both sides of the leather fabric after grinding to make both sides of the leather fabric smooth and resin-impregnated surfaces;
A sewing process in which the leather fabric after resin processing is cut and sewed to finish a leather garment of a predetermined shape;
A water washing step of washing the leather apparel,
A wrinkle drying step in which the leather apparel after washing with water is manually wrinkled, and then the leather apparel is dried in a wrinkled state, and in the middle of drying, the wrinkle by hand is performed again. ,
In the leather apparel after wrinkle drying, a water-repellent processing step of performing water-repellent processing on at least the inner surface of the inner surface facing the wearer's skin and the outer surface facing outward. It is characterized by having.

  Here, in order to surely wrinkle the leather apparel after washing, it is desirable to perform wrinkling by hand again during drying.

Next, the leather fabric for clothing of the present invention is:
Dyed leather fabric,
A resin-impregnated surface formed on both sides of the leather fabric;
A water repellent resin layer covering at least one of the resin impregnated surfaces in the leather fabric,
The leather fabric was obtained by peeling off the leather part after peeling off the silver surface part and floor leather part of the tanned leather obtained by tanning animal natural leather material at a predetermined ground thickness. Is,
The leather fabric is characterized by being dyed after buffing both sides.

Further, the present invention is a method for producing a leather fabric for clothing having the above-described configuration,
Tanning process to obtain tanned leather by applying non-chrome tanning to animal natural leather material;
From the tanned leather, a stripping step of stripping the silver surface portion and the floor leather portion;
From the leather part after the silver surface part and the floor leather part have been peeled off, a leather stripping step of stripping the leather fabric of a predetermined ground thickness,
A buffing step of buffing both sides of the peeled leather fabric;
A dyeing process for dyeing the leather fabric after buffing;
A grinding step of grinding both sides of the leather fabric after dyeing;
Resin processing step of impregnating or applying resin on both sides of the leather fabric after grinding to make both sides of the leather fabric smooth and resin-impregnated surfaces;
Water-repellent treatment is performed on the leather fabric after resin processing to obtain a leather fabric for clothing having a water-repellent surface on which at least one surface is formed with a water-repellent resin layer. Yes.

  In the present invention, the leather fabric is peeled off from the tanned leather portion after removing the high-density silver surface portion and the coarse floor leather portion of the tanned leather, and both surfaces are used as resin-impregnated surfaces. Therefore, the leather fabric is impregnated with a sufficient amount of resin from both sides, and even after washing with water, it does not harden and retains its original texture. By performing the above, it is possible to obtain a softer texture. In addition, if the water repellent resin layer is the inner surface facing the skin of the wearer, moisture such as sweat can be absorbed to reduce the occurrence of discoloration and staining as much as possible. Therefore, it is possible to obtain a leather fabric for clothing that is suitable for producing a comfortable leather apparel without requiring a lining.

  According to the present invention, a leather apparel is manufactured using a leather fabric for apparel that can be manually wrinkled after washing with water. Further, the water repellent resin layer faces the garment wearer's skin. Therefore, by using the leather for clothing according to the present invention, it is possible to obtain a leather apparel with good wearing feeling in which each part is made of a single piece of leather without requiring a lining.

It is explanatory drawing which shows the leather fabric for clothing of the clothing made from leather to which this invention is applied. It is explanatory drawing explaining the process of peeling off the leather fabric of predetermined ground thickness from the tanned leather part after removing a silver surface part and a floor leather part from tanned leather. It is a schematic flowchart which shows the manufacturing process of the leather clothing goods to which this invention is applied.

  Below, with reference to drawings, the manufacturing method of the leather apparel to which this invention is applied is demonstrated.

(Leather fabric for clothing)
First, with reference to FIG. 1, the structure of the leather fabric for clothing used for leather clothing, for example, a leather cardigan will be described. The leather fabric 1 for clothing is composed of a dyed leather fabric 2, and resin impregnated surfaces 3 and 4 are formed on both sides of the leather fabric 2. , 6. The water-repellent resin layer needs to be formed on the inner side facing the wearer's skin side in the leather fabric 2, but by forming it on the outer side as well, discoloration due to rain water, stains, It is desirable because it can prevent discoloration and improves durability and weather resistance. As will be described later, the leather fabric for clothing having this structure is washed with water after being sewn and wrinkled manually.

  As shown in FIG. 2, the leather fabric 2 is formed from a leather portion 22 after peeling off a silver surface portion 21 and a floor leather portion 23 of a tanned leather 20 obtained by tanning an animal natural leather material. It was obtained by stripping off with the ground thickness. The peeled leather fabric 2 is dyed after buffing on both sides thereof. The leather fabric in this example is goat leather. Other animal leathers can be used, but it was confirmed that goat leather is suitable in terms of softness and fashionability when sewn on clothing.

  Next, a procedure for producing a leather cardigan (leather apparel) will be described with reference to the schematic flowchart of FIG. First, after a known pre-treatment process (step ST1) such as washing with water and hair removal is performed on a natural leather material of an animal, in this example, a goat leather raw skin, a leather material of a predetermined thickness is obtained, and then the non-chrome is applied to the leather material. Tanning is performed to obtain tanned leather 20 (step ST2: tanning process). From the tanned leather 20, the silver surface portion 21 and the floor leather portion 23 are peeled off to form only the leather portion 22. From the leather portion 22, the leather fabric 2 having a predetermined ground thickness, for example, a thickness of about 0.1 mm to 3 mm is stripped (step ST3: stripping step).

  Since both sides of the peeled leather fabric 2 are peeled and fluffed, buffing is performed to remove the fluffing (step ST4: buffing process). The leather fabric 2 after buffing is dyed (step ST5: dyeing process). After smoothing both sides of the leather fabric 2 after dyeing, the leather fabric 2 is infiltrated with lacquer resin liquid and heated while applying pressure with a roller, iron, etc., to smooth both surfaces of the leather fabric 2 The resin impregnated surfaces 3 and 4 are formed (step ST6: resin processing step). Instead of a lacquer finish, a finish using a dye or pigment colorant and a thermoplastic polymer resin (acrylic, butadiene, polyurethane) as a binder (glue) may be used.

  Next, the leather fabric 1 for clothing manufactured in this way is cut and sewn to finish a leather cardigan (leather clothing product) (step ST7: sewing process). The leather cardigan is then washed with water (step ST8: washing process). Leather products cannot usually be cleaned, and when washed with water, the shape and shape of the leather become unstable as the leather hardens or shrinks, so it is common practice not to wash leather products with water. The leather fabric of this example uses a portion of the tanned leather excluding the silver surface portion and the floor leather portion, and has been subjected to resin processing on both sides, so that the form and shape are stabilized by prior water washing processing, Substantial changes due to subsequent washing with water are also reduced.

  The leather cardigan after washing with water is wrinkled as if it is squeezed by hand, and dried on a hanger with the wrinkled state (step ST9: wrinkle drying process). Here, it is desirable to perform wrinkling by hand again in the semi-drying stage so that wrinkles do not disappear during drying. In order to give a texture to the surface of leather, conventionally, a method of pressing the leather with a metal mold is generally used. In this example, by manually wrinkling, the texture of leather with a taste of old clothes can be maintained from the artificial texture of the surface, and fashionability can be enhanced. Moreover, since the surface can be swelled in this way, it adheres to a wearer's skin, air permeability worsens, and a favorable wearing feeling without a sticky feeling is obtained.

  Next, in the leather cardigan after wrinkle drying, at least the inner surface of the inner surface facing the wearer's skin and the outer surface facing the outer side is subjected to water repellent finishing (step ST10: water repellent). Processing step). In this example, the water repellent resin layers 5 and 6 are formed by spraying or applying a water repellent made of a fluororesin on both the inner side surface and the outer side surface of the leather cardigan. By performing the water-repellent treatment, the fastness to dry friction and fastness to wet friction of the leather fabric is improved. In particular, in this example, the wet friction fastness can be significantly increased by performing water-repellent finishing on the surface of the leather fabric after the water washing step.

DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 1 Leather fabric for clothing 2 Leather fabric 3, 4 Resin impregnated surface 5, 6 Water-repellent resin layer 20 Tanned leather 21 Silver surface portion 22 Leather portion 23 Floor leather portion

Claims (7)

A leather apparel manufactured using the apparel leather fabric (1) cut into a predetermined shape,
Each of the leather fabrics for clothing (1)
Dyed leather fabric (2);
Resin-impregnated surfaces (3, 4) formed on both sides of the leather fabric;
A water repellent resin layer (5, 6) covering at least one of the resin impregnated surfaces (3, 4) of the leather fabric (2),
The leather fabric (2) has a leather portion (22 after stripping the silver surface portion (21) and the floor leather portion (23) of the tanned leather (20) obtained by tanning an animal natural leather material. ), Obtained by peeling off at a predetermined ground thickness, and dyed after buffing both sides,
The water-repellent resin layer (5) of the leather fabric for clothing (1) is formed at least on the inner surface of the clothing facing the skin of the clothing wearer in the leather fabric for clothing,
A leather apparel product characterized in that the garment leather fabric (1) after sewing is manually wrinkled after washing with water. In claim 1,
A leather apparel characterized in that the leather fabric (2) is goat leather. A method for producing a leather apparel according to claim 1 or 2,
A tanning step (ST2) for obtaining a tanned leather (20) by applying a non-chrome tanning to an animal natural leather material;
The silver surface portion (21) and the floor leather portion (23) are peeled off from the tanned leather (20), and the silver surface portion and the floor leather portion are peeled off from the leather portion (22) after being peeled off. A leather stripping process (ST3) for stripping the thick leather fabric (2);
A buffing step (ST4) of buffing both sides of the peeled leather fabric (2);
A dyeing step (ST5) for dyeing the leather fabric after buffing;
A grinding step of grinding both sides of the leather fabric after dyeing;
Resin processing step (ST6) in which both surfaces of the leather fabric after grinding are impregnated or coated with resin, and both surfaces of the leather fabric are smooth resin-impregnated surfaces;
A sewing step (ST7) of cutting and sewing the leather fabric after resin processing to finish it into a leather article of a predetermined shape;
A water washing step (ST8) for washing the leather apparel;
A wrinkle drying step (ST9) of drying the leather clothing in a wrinkled state after performing manual wrinkling on the leather clothing after washing with water,
In the leather apparel after wrinkling and drying, a water-repellent finishing step (ST10) of performing water-repellent finishing on at least the inner side surface of the inner side surface facing the wearer's skin and the outer side surface facing the outside. And a method for producing a leather apparel. In claim 3,
In the wrinkle drying step (ST9), the leather clothing product is subjected to manual wrinkling again during the drying process. Dyed leather fabric (2);
Resin impregnated surfaces (3, 4) formed on both sides of the leather fabric (2);
A water repellent resin layer (5, 6) covering at least one of the resin impregnated surfaces (3, 4) of the leather fabric (2),
The leather fabric (2) has a leather portion (22 after stripping the silver surface portion (21) and the floor leather portion (23) of the tanned leather (20) obtained by tanning an animal natural leather material. ), And was obtained by peeling off at a predetermined ground thickness,
The leather fabric (1) for clothing, wherein the leather fabric (2) is dyed after buffing both sides thereof. In claim 5,
A leather fabric for clothing, wherein the leather fabric is goat leather. A method for producing a leather fabric for clothing according to claim 5 or 6,
A tanning step (ST2) for obtaining a tanned leather (20) by applying a non-chrome tanning to an animal natural leather material;
The silver surface portion (21) and the floor leather portion (23) are peeled off from the tanned leather (20), and the silver surface portion and the floor leather portion are peeled off from the leather portion (22) after being peeled off. A leather stripping process (ST3) for stripping the thick leather fabric (2);
A buffing step (ST4) of buffing both sides of the peeled leather fabric (2);
A dyeing step (ST5) for dyeing the leather fabric (2) after buffing;
A grinding step of grinding both sides of the leather fabric (2) after dyeing;
A resin processing step (ST6) in which a resin is impregnated or applied on both sides of the ground leather fabric (2) after grinding so that both surfaces of the leather fabric are smooth resin impregnated surfaces (3, 4);
The leather fabric (2) after resin processing is subjected to water repellent treatment to obtain a leather fabric for clothing (1) having a water repellent surface on which at least one surface is formed with a water repellent resin layer (5, 6). It has a water-repellent processing process, The manufacturing method of the leather fabric for clothing characterized by the above-mentioned.

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