JP4767563B2 - Tulle lace fabric - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a tulle lace knitted fabric using a polyester multifilament yarn that can be dyed with a cationic dye.

Conventionally, nylon having a strong texture and strong strength has been mainly used as the ground yarn for tulle lace fabric. However, it is not preferable in view of cost that nylon is a raw yarn cost and the ground yarn having a large amount of use is nylon. Nylon also has problems such as heat forming processability of tulle lace fabric, form stability due to moisture absorption, and light yellowing resistance. For this reason, various studies have been conducted on the use of polyester fibers excellent in form stability and light yellowing resistance as a base fabric for tulle lace.
As such a polyester fiber for a lace base fabric, for example, in Patent Document 1, a melted and discharged yarn is cooled and solidified, and then a godet roller is wound by a winder at a speed of 4500 to 7000 m / min. It is described that a polyester fiber for a lace base fabric that is soft and has good dimensional stability is obtained.

  In ordinary polyester fiber, both disperse dyes dye both nylon and polyester fabric of the pattern yarn, so it is possible to obtain various multi-colored expressions by freely dyeing the hue of the ground yarn and the pattern yarn by anti-dyeing. If it is not possible to express different colors, it should be expressed with ground yarn and pattern yarn dyed in the state of yarn, or expressed with embroidery yarn dyed in the state of yarn after anti-dying the tulle knitted fabric There are problems with high costs, inventory risks, and quick delivery.

For this reason, in tulle lace knitted fabrics, it is necessary to use cationic dyed polyester fibers with physical properties suitable for ground yarns in order to obtain various multi-colored expressions that freely dye the hues of ground yarns and patterned yarns. It has been demanded.
JP 2004-277909 A

  However, in the method described in Patent Document 1, since the godet roller is a method of winding without stretching at 4500 to 7000 m / min, spinning is performed with a cationic dyeable polymer having a higher viscosity at the time of melting than a normal polyester polymer. It is difficult, and if the viscosity of the polymer is lowered to improve the spinnability, physical properties suitable for the ground yarn of the tulle lace fabric cannot be obtained.

The gist of the present invention is that the base yarn constituting the tulle of the tulle lace knitted fabric is a polyester multifilament yarn that can be dyed with a cationic dye and satisfies the following formula, and the patterned yarn or embroidery yarn constituting the patterned portion of the knitted fabric However, the tulle lace knitted fabric includes two or more kinds of fibers that can be dyed differently from the ground yarn.
(A) 3.5 cN / dtex ≦ DS ≦ 6 cN / dtex
(B) 25% ≦ DE ≦ 70%
(C) 23 ≦ DS × √DE ≦ 30
(DS: breaking strength, DE: breaking elongation)

(A) 3.5 cN / dtex ≦ DS ≦ 6 cN / dtex
(B) 25% ≦ DE ≦ 70%
(C) 23 ≦ DS × √DE ≦ 30
The second gist of the present invention resides in a tulle lace knitted fabric in which a pattern yarn or an embroidery yarn constituting the pattern portion of the tulle lace knitted fabric includes one or more kinds of fibers that can be dyed differently from the ground yarn. .

  INDUSTRIAL APPLICABILITY The present invention provides a tulle lace knitted fabric that is excellent in soft feeling and capable of multicolor expression.

In the present invention, the ground yarns that make up the tulle tulle lace knitted fabric, will require an be a dyeable polyester multi-filament yarn with a cationic dye, also, as embroidery yarn or pattern yarn,該地yarn and different color dyeable nylon, by configured to include two or more fibers such as rayon, anti dyed freely different color to be Somewake the hue of embroidery thread or pattern yarn and ground yarn by unprecedented variety multicolor representation Is possible.

  In addition, it is preferable that the cationic dyeable polyester multifilament yarn can obtain a sufficient color at a dyeing temperature of 105 ° C. or less. Since rayon and nylon, which are mainly used for patterned yarns and embroidery yarns, are dyeable at normal pressure, the cationic dyeable polyester can not only rationalize dyeing but also reduce rayon physical properties. Many advantages such as a reduction in the thermal decomposition of the cationic dye and a reduction in the contamination of other fibers are obtained, which is preferable.

  Further, since the yarn of the tulle knitted fabric is required to be transparent, a yarn having a fineness is preferably used. In order to improve the transparency, the addition of inorganic particles is preferably 0.4% by weight or less. Preferably, no inorganic particles are added.

  In the present invention, the polyester multifilament yarn that can be dyed with a cationic dye must satisfy the following formula.

(A) 3.5 cN / dtex ≦ DS ≦ 6 cN / dtex
(B) 25% ≦ DE ≦ 70%
(C) 23 ≦ DS × √DE ≦ 30
(DS: breaking strength, DE: breaking elongation)
When the breaking strength DS is less than 3.5 cN / dtex, the strength is insufficient and the yarn is broken by the tension of the tulle lace fabric, making it difficult to perform the knitting. In addition, hole aki due to thread breakage of the tulle lace knitted fabric occurs during embroidery of the lace.

  Further, if the breaking strength exceeds 6 cN / dtex, spinning becomes difficult.

  Further, if the breaking elongation DE is less than 25%, the yarn is easily broken by the tension during knitting, and the knitting becomes difficult, and a hole is formed due to the thread breakage of the tulle knitted fabric when the lace is embroidered. On the other hand, when the elongation at break DE exceeds 70%, the deformation increases due to the tension during knitting or embroidery, and the dimensional stability decreases. From the viewpoint of dimensional stability, 30% to 60% is preferable.

  Furthermore, in the present invention, it is necessary that 23 ≦ DS × √DE ≦ 30. DS × √DE is a value indicating the robustness of the material and is called toughness. If the toughness is less than 23, the strength of the tulle knitted fabric as a ground yarn is insufficient, and yarn breakage tends to occur. If the toughness is 30 or more, yarn production is difficult and the texture becomes very hard.

  The polymer used for the polyester multifilament yarn that can be dyed with the cationic dye of the present invention is a polyester having ethylene terephthalate as a main repeating unit, and a unit containing a sulfonic acid metal base in the molecule. Examples thereof include those copolymerized in an amount of 1 to 10 mol% based on the constituting repeating units, and adipic acid or sebacic acid may be copolymerized for the purpose of lowering the dyeing temperature. Copolymerization of sulfonic acid metal salts and sulfonic acid phosphonium salts that can be melt-spun even at a high degree of polymerization as shown in the above, and quaternary onium salts that suppress thermal decomposition. You may use what obtains high toughness by reducing quantity.

  The cationic dyeable polyester fiber of the present invention can be obtained by drawing an undrawn yarn obtained by spinning these polymers by a known method by a usual method. A core-sheathed composite fiber in which an atmospheric pressure cationic dyeable polyester obtained by copolymerizing Na sulfoisophthalic acid and adipic acid and a polyethylene terephthalate homopolymer with a high degree of polymerization having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.75 or more in the core is disposed. The method is more preferred.

  Tulle lace knitting may be knitted in the usual manner. For example, a tulle is prepared using a polyester multifilament yarn that can be dyed with the cationic dye of the present invention as a ground yarn, and then a different type of dye is used. Thus, it is obtained by embroidering one or more kinds of fibers that can be dyed differently from the ground yarn, or by creating a tulle knitted fabric portion and a pattern portion in the same process using a lace knitting machine.

  Hereinafter, the present invention will be described specifically by way of examples. In addition, each physical property and evaluation were calculated | required with the following method.

(Breaking strength DS, breaking elongation DE)
Using a Shimadzu Corporation autograph SD-100C special shape, a stress-elongation curve was measured at a test length of 200 mm and a tensile speed of 200 mm / min, and the strength (cN / dtex) and elongation at the breaking point of the fiber ( %).

(Intrinsic viscosity)
The polymer was dissolved in a phenol / tetrachloroethane (50/50 weight ratio) mixed solvent and measured at 25 ° C. with an Ubbelohde viscometer.

A polyethylene terephthalate copolymerized with a polyethylene terephthalate homopolymer having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.79 and a copolymer having an intrinsic viscosity of 0.56, 5-Na sulfoisophthalic acid and 2.25 mol% adipic acid. The sheath portion was arranged in a concentric shape with a weight ratio of 1: 1, and was spun at a spinning temperature of 285 ° C. and a spinning speed of 1600 m / min to obtain an undrawn yarn.

  The obtained undrawn yarn was drawn at a heating roller temperature of 80 ° C., a heating plate temperature of 160 ° C. and a draw ratio of 4.175, and the fineness was 40 dtex, the number of filaments was 8, the breaking strength was 4.2 cN / dtex, the breaking elongation was 30%, A core-sheath composite cationic dyeable polyester multifilament yarn of DS × √DE = 23 was obtained. The multifilament yarn was used as the ground yarn for tulle lace fabric.

  For pattern yarn, one 167 dtex 50 f rayon multifilament yarn was twisted under Z400 T / M, then two twisted yarns were twisted over S350 T / M, and three 90 dtex 48 f nylon multifilament yarns were combined and Z600 T / M under After twisting, the two twisted yarns were twisted at S500 T / M and knitted with a Russell lace knitting machine, scoured and dyed under the following conditions.

Dyeing condition 1 (ground black dyeing):
Cathilon Black CD-BLH (cationic dye manufactured by Hodogaya Chemical Co., Ltd.) 6% owf
Kayanol Red NB (Nippon Kayaku Co., Ltd. acid dye) 0.5% owf
One-bath two-stage method (first stage is dyed with cationic dye at 100 ° C. for 40 minutes, second stage is cooled to 40 ° C. and precipitation inhibitor (Cachiron Salt W New Conk, manufactured by Hodogaya Chemical Co., Ltd.) 3% owf and acidic The dye was added and dyed at 93 ° C for 30 minutes.The pH of the dyeing bath was adjusted to PH 4.5 with a buffer solution.) Of rayon was dyed under the following conditions.

Remazol Yellow GR ( Reactive dye manufactured by Dystar Japan Co., Ltd.) 1% owf
60 ° C x 60 minutes anhydrous sodium sulfate 80g / L (added at the start with dye)
Anhydrous sodium carbonate 20g / L (added in portions after reaching 60 ° C)
Dyeing condition 2 (ground dyeing):
Cathilon Blue CD-FBLH (Hodogaya Chemical Co., Ltd. cationic dye) 1% owf
Kayanol Red NB (Nippon Kayaku Co., Ltd. acid dye) 0.5% owf
One-bath dyeing (dyeing with cationic dye, acid dye and precipitation inhibitor at 100 ° C for 40 minutes. PH of dyeing bath was adjusted to pH 4.5 with buffer solution). After dyeing, soaping was performed, and pattern yarn rayon was dyed in a separate bath under the following conditions.

Remazol Yellow GR ( Reactive dye manufactured by Dystar Japan Co., Ltd.) 1% owf
60 ° C x 60 minutes anhydrous sodium sulfate 80g / L (added at the start with dye)
Anhydrous sodium carbonate 20g / L (added in portions after reaching 60 ° C)
The resulting knitted fabric had good knitting properties. In dyeing condition 1, the ground yarn develops a good black color, the yarn made of nylon fiber is red, the yarn made of rayon is dyed yellow, and in dyeing condition 2, the yarn is dyed blue. The nylon of the handle yarn has a red color, the rayon of the handle yarn has a yellow color, and the ground yarn and the handle yarn are each dyed with a predetermined dye and are not affected by the hue of the dye that dyes other fibers. The desired different color expression was obtained.

A tulle knitted fabric is knitted with a Russell knitting machine using the base yarn used in Example 1, one 133 dtex 48 f rayon multifilament yarn is pre-twisted into S387 T / M as an embroidery yarn, and then two twisted yarns are Z300 T / M An embroidery lace was prepared by using two twisted nylon multifilament yarns of 90 dtex48f and two twisted yarns of S300 T / M, and then twisting the two twisted yarns at Z250 T / M. The resulting embroidery knitted fabric showed good processability with little thread breakage during knitting and embroidery. As a result of dyeing this embroidery lace fabric under the same conditions as dyeing condition 1 and dyeing condition 2 of Example 1, good different color expression was obtained as in Example 1.

(Comparative Example 1)
Spinning was performed at 285 ° C. using the modified polymer used on the sheath side of Example 1 to obtain an undrawn yarn having a round cross section of 116 dtex / 8f. Next, it is drawn with a normal two-stage drawing machine to obtain a cationic dyeable polyester multifilament yarn having a fineness of 40 dtex, 8 filaments, breaking strength 3.6 cN / dtex, breaking elongation 25%, DS × √DE = 18. It was. The multifilament yarn was used as the ground yarn of the tulle lace fabric, and the same tulle lace fabric knitting as in Example 1 and the same dyeing process as in Example 1 were performed. The obtained knitted lace fabric was able to obtain the desired different color expression, but the knitting property of the knitted fabric due to the yarn breakage was poor, and it was not at the level that could shift to production.

(Comparative Example 2)
A circular cross-section drawn yarn made of a polyethylene terephthalate homopolymer of 39 dtex 8f, breaking strength 3.7 cN / dtex, breaking elongation 61%, DS × √DE = 28.9 was used as the ground yarn of Example 2, and dyeing was performed under the following conditions. An embroidery lace knitted fabric was obtained in the same manner as in Example 2 except for the change.

  Disperse dye dyeing (Dianix Black XF (produced by Dystar Japan Co., Ltd.) 4.5% owf, 130 ° C. × 60 minutes, PH 4.5) After performing reduction washing, acid dye dyeing (Kayanol Red NB 0.5%) owf, 92 ° C. × 30 minutes, PH 4.5), and then dyed reactive dye (Remazol Yellow GR 1% owf, 60 ° C. × 60 minutes, auxiliary agent input was the same as in Example 1).

  The resulting embroidery knitted fabric showed good processability without yarn breakage during knitting and embroidery, but the disperse dye for dyeing the base yarn also dyed nylon, and nylon is a disperse dye. The target color was not obtained due to the blended color of the acid dye.

Claims (1)

The ground yarn constituting the tulle of the tulle lace knitted fabric is made of a polyester multifilament yarn that can be dyed with a cationic dye and satisfies the following formula, and the patterned yarn or embroidery yarn constituting the patterned portion of the knitted fabric is said ground yarn and Tulle lace knitted fabric containing two or more types of fibers that can be dyed in different colors.
(A) 3.5 cN / dtex ≦ DS ≦ 6 cN / dtex
(B) 25% ≦ DE ≦ 70%
(C) 23 ≦ DS × √DE ≦ 30
(DS: breaking strength, DE: breaking elongation)