JP4633314B2 - Method for producing stretch fabric - Google Patents

Abstract

A method of treating a woven fabric to produce a stretchable fabric combination which comprises applying heat and pressure to the fabric in such a manner that the yarn strands substantially across the width of the fabric are forced closer together thus imparting generally semi-permanent stretch into the fabric while simultaneously at least partially bonding thereto a synthetic interlining fabric employing a stretchable bonding agent or film. The woven fabric employed in the method of the invention will usually be of a non-synthetic textile material, for example wool or cotton, which can not normally be permanently set by heat alone. By contrast, the interlining material will normally be a synthetic material which is thermoplastic and can be heat set, such as a polyester or polyamide textile material. The bonding coating or film is preferably material which as well as bonding will impart stretch to the final combined product and it is preferred for this purpose to use a polyurethane material. The material may be coated on either the woven non-synthetic fabric or the interlining fabric or may be a film interposed between the two.

Description

[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a method of treating a fabric and its manufactured fabric, particularly but not exclusively for use in garment manufacturing, wherein the method comprises a certain degree and type of stretch, for example Allows to be given to the waistband.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Traditionally, the waistband interlining can be stretched and the outer fabric of the waistband can be given a “lace fold (ruche decoration)” or “gather” to give it some stretch, It has become a stretchy waistband garment with a poor appearance and lack of fit. Alternatively, the waistband interlining includes a “non-stretch” interlining that functions as a core that stabilizes the outer fabric, provides some degree of reinforcement, and possibly increases toughness. . The disadvantage of the latter fabric configuration is that there is almost no “give” or “ease” in the part where the waistband of the garment is incorporated. There is a risk that the wearer feels cramped when the bulge expands. If worn for a long time, the top of the waistband may be forced to “give away” and “roll over”, which makes the appearance of clothing unsightly. In addition, for wearers with waistband “off the peg”, they would choose clothing that is too tight or too loose.
[0003]
In the Applicant's European Patent Application Publication EP-B-0705356, Applicant is forced to bundle yarn strands across two stages--substantially the entire width of the fabric, and thus to the fabric as a whole semi-permanently. Processed in accordance with the first stage of the method, followed by applying heat and pressure to the fabric in such a way that a typical “ease” or “stretch” is imparted. A combination of a second stage comprising adding selected interlining and / or interlining combinations having a stretch inherent to the fabric, thus providing a semi-permanent “relaxed” feel imparted to the fabric in the first stage or One processing woven fabric, characterized in that the “stretch” is made substantially permanent in the second stage The law is disclosed.
[0004]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
The interlining or interlining combination used in the method of publication of the above European patent application itself has sufficient stretch properties so that the woven fabric in the final combination will return to its original length after stretching. It is necessary to have sufficient stretchability.
[0005]
Such interlining or interlining combinations are commercially available, but their production is relatively costly and requires relatively expensive stretch yarns such as “Lycra” yarns.
[0006]
The present invention is a combination fabric having stretch properties similar to those described in the above European Patent Application Publication using a relatively low toughness and relatively low cost interlining or interlining combination. In addition, it seeks to provide a method by which such fabrics can be manufactured in a one-step process.
[0007]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
In accordance with the present invention, a method of treating a woven fablic to produce a stretch fabric combination, wherein yarn strands substantially spanning the width of the fabric are forced together, thus Including applying heat and pressure to the fabric in such a way that the fabric is given a generally semi-permanent stretch and at the same time a synthetic interlining fabric is at least partially bonded to the fabric. A method is provided.
[0008]
Desirably, the bonding is performed using a stretchable binder or film.
[0009]
Without being limited thereto, the woven fabric used in the method of the present invention is typically a non-synthetic textile material, such as wool or cotton, which usually cannot be permanently set by heat alone. In contrast, the interlining material is typically a thermoplastic, heat settable synthetic material, such as a polyester textile material or a polyamide textile material.
[0010]
The bond coating or film is desirably a material that, like the bond, imparts stretch properties to the final combination product, and for this purpose it is desirable to use a polyurethane material. This material may be coated on either a non-synthetic woven fabric or an interlining fabric, or it may be a film disposed between both fabrics. This is used when additional 'pull' is needed to give the final product the necessary stretch and resiliency. For example, if it is desirable to add a (non-stretchable) interlining to the stretch fabric, this may not be necessary as will be discussed in more detail later.
[0011]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
The method of the present invention is a machine as described in the above-mentioned Applicant's European Patent Application Publication, comprising means for applying heat and pressure to a woven fabric and means for applying heat and pressure to the fabric. As a result of the fabric passing through the device, forcing the yarn strands across the entire width of the fabric to be bundled, thus imparting a semi-permanent stretch to the fabric. It is desirable to implement with a machine that includes transport means for the purpose. This process is sometimes referred to herein as “compressive shrinking” for simplicity. When this compression shrinkage is applied to a non-synthetic woven fabric, a stretch is created, but this stretch is gradually lost, or if it is subsequently subjected to heat or steam treatment, it is completely lost to one side, It is not permanent. Therefore, in the process of the applicant's publication of the European patent application, the stretch characteristic is fixed, i.e. "permanent", using the second stage.
[0012]
In the process of the present invention, the interlining material is fixed to a non-synthetic woven fabric and at the same time set itself so that the compression shrinkage applied to the fabric is “permanent”. By being bonded to the woven fabric, the stretch imparted to the fabric by this compression shrinkage is also “permanent”.
[0013]
The interlining material used is a fine woven polyamide fabric or polyester fabric, preferably the latter. However, other fabric structures such as needled or water entangled nonwovens can also be used. Although the interlining supplied for use in the above-mentioned European Patent Application Publication of Applicant required a considerable degree of stretch and high modulus, the interlining initially used in the present invention is: Compared to that, a material with low stretchability and a much cheaper material may be used. That additional stretch is provided by compression shrinkage, and the additional modulus is provided by the bonding material, which is why the use of polyurethane is desired.
[0014]
To produce the final product, it is sufficient to pass the machine once if the bond produced by the bond coating or film is strong enough for the combination fabric to withstand subsequent wear. Alternatively, if not, the combination fabric is a subsequent process similar to the means described in Applicant's above-mentioned European patent application publication for adding a previously treated fabric in the compression-shrink area. Heat and pressure may be additionally applied through the means to produce a complete bond.
[0015]
As described above, the fabric can be processed in a full width shape, but is typically processed in a strip, which is then formed into a waistband on a trouser or skirt. Obviously, the cost of a machine for processing such strip-like material is considerably less than that required to process the fabric across its width. Therefore, the interlining required to stabilize the stretch in the woven fabric is effectively generated and at the same time fixed to the woven fabric, so that this interlining is produced with a narrow width and the entire width of the interlining It is an advantage of the present invention that no production machine is needed.
[0016]
However, this process has numerous applications, such as being able to be used in wide shapes, such as 1.5 to 5 meters wide, where a rigid fabric needs to be converted into a fabric with stretch in a linear direction.
[0017]
When the interlining fabric, a thermoplastic synthetic material, typically a polyester fabric, is heat set at the temperatures normally used in the compression shrinkage process, the additional elasticity imparted to the fabric by the compression shrinkage process is “permanent” It is recognized that
[0018]
When stretch fabric is used in the manufacture of stretch trousers or stretch skirt waistbands, the majority of manufacturers prefer to fix, eg fuse, the stretch interlining to the surface of the waistband. To do. This stretch interlining is generally, but not always, a non-woven material and is considerably more expensive than its 'rigid' equivalent. In this case, the interlining is not necessary to impart elastic recovery properties to the waistband since the waistband fabric is already stretchable. This stretch interlining is used to make the waistband relatively stiff and relatively easy to handle in subsequent processing.
[0019]
In accordance with a further embodiment of the present invention, a standard hard fusible nonwoven material or other relatively hard knitted material is treated with a narrow shape in conjunction with a stretch waistband through the compression shrinkage machine described above, and these Both are converted into a thin layer with stretch properties in the length direction. Since the waistband is a stretch material, the interlining need only move with the fabric and does not need to provide additional stretch resilience, so stretchable binders are useless (though binders Can be used).
[0020]
In addition, the stretch fabric can be tensioned during processing in conjunction with a 'hard' interlining to compress 'shrink' to its original dimensions. That is, if this process achieves 20% shrinkage on the interlining, the waistband fabric will be pre-tensioned by 25% of its length before compression shrinkage, and after processing the waistband will shrink. Return to its original length.
[0021]
The fabric of the present invention is primarily useful for waistbands for skirts, trousers and the like, but is not limited to such applications. Other uses will be apparent to those skilled in the art. For example, as disclosed in Applicant's PCT application GB99 / 01146, a portion of the woven fabric is left in an unstable fold or stabilized to a relatively low degree, so that subsequent relaxation. The composite can also take a desired shape, for example, a curved shape. Such a curved shape seems to be useful in many fields due to the structure of clothes.
[0022]
The invention further extends to combination fabrics manufactured according to the method of the invention.

Claims (7)

To generate the scan Toretchi textile combination, only heat is not normally permanently set, there is provided a method of processing a textile is a non-synthetic textile material or wool or cotton,
Wataru Ru yarn strands to the width of the fabric forcibly summarized, therefore, contains said fabric generally in such a way as semi-permanent stretch Ru granted to apply heat and pressure to the fabric See
Simultaneously applying the heat and pressure, at least partially bonding a synthetic interlining fabric, which is a thermoplastic, heat-settable synthetic material, or a polyester textile material or a polyamide textile material, to the fabric. further characterized in that. The coupling is realized by coating or film, bonds, methods who claim 1 to give a stretch in the final combination product. The method of claim 2 , wherein the coating or film is a polyurethane material. It said coating or film, or is coated on either the fabric or the synthetic interlining fabric, or a method according to claim 2 or 3 is disposed between the synthetic interlining fabric and the fabric. The method according to any one of claims 1 to 4 interlining material used is a polyamide fabric or polyester fabric by Moody. Narrow shape, the fusion of the nonwoven material or other knitted seen material in combination with the stretch waistband fabric to produce a thin layer having a stretch characteristics in the length direction,
Thus, the method wherein the stretch waistband fabric is generated by the method of claim 1 . The method of claim 6 , wherein the stretch waistband fabric is tensioned during processing with the synthetic interlining fabric, and thus contracts after processing to return to its original dimensions.