JP4520271B2 - Cosmetics - Google Patents

Description

  The present invention relates to a cosmetic comprising powder, lysophospholipid, electrolyte and water, and more specifically, an electrolyte is blended in an aqueous system, and the electrical conductivity of the cosmetic is 0.05 to Even when it is 0.5 S / m, the present invention relates to a cosmetic that is excellent in powder dispersibility, has a good spread of spread at the time of applying the cosmetic, has no stickiness, and has an emollient feeling on the back skin and excellent stability over time.

  Various powders are widely used for cosmetics for purposes such as colorants, skin color masking agents (makeup effect imparting), ultraviolet screening agents, touch modifiers, and the like. However, it is not easy to stably disperse these powders in water so as not to cause aggregation and sedimentation of the powders. If the powder is agglomerated in the cosmetic, not only the function of the powder is not fully exhibited, but also the spread of the cosmetic becomes worse when the cosmetic is applied to the skin. In particular, when various electrolytes such as organic electrolytes and inorganic electrolytes are blended in cosmetics for the purpose of imparting a whitening effect, a moisturizing effect, an astringent effect, a keratolytic effect, etc., the powder dispersibility in water is further deteriorated. . This is because an electric double layer is formed in water on the powder surface, and electrostatic repulsion force, etc. derived from this electric double layer contributes to dispersion stabilization, but the electrolyte compresses the electric double layer. As a result, the dispersibility of the powder is deteriorated.

For this reason, various techniques for dispersing powder in water have been studied. Specifically, the powder is treated with a silane coupling agent and combined with a specific hydrophilic resin (for example, see Patent Document 1), and the powder surface is treated with polyvinylpyrrolidone (for example, used) And the like, and a method of treating the powder surface with a specific compound, a method using an activator such as polyglycerin fatty acid (for example, see Patent Literature 3), and the like.
Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 10-45949 (pages 1 to 6) JP 2001-48731 A (page 1 to page 7) JP 2004-182720 A (pages 1 to 11)

  However, in the conventional method of surface-treating powder, the water-based powder dispersibility is good, but a sticky feeling derived from the surface treatment agent, a feeling of use such as poor spread spread, and the like. It was not preferable. Further, the method described in Patent Document 3 has a sticky feeling and sometimes lacks an emollient feeling on the skin after use.

  For this reason, it is hoped to develop a cosmetic that has a good spread in cosmetics, does not feel sticky, and has excellent stability over time by dispersing the powder well in water when an electrolyte is blended. It was rare.

  As a result of intensive studies in the above situation, the present inventor has used the lysophospholipid as a dispersing agent when dispersing the powder in water, so that the powder is mixed even when the electrolyte is mixed in water. The present invention has been completed by finding that a cosmetic with excellent dispersibility immediately after and over time, good elongation spread when applying cosmetics, no stickiness, and excellent emollient feeling on the back skin can be obtained. .

That is, the present invention provides the following components (a) to (d);
A cosmetic comprising (a) powder (b) lysophospholipid (c) electrolyte (d) water, and an electrical conductivity of the cosmetic of 0.05 to 0.5 S / m at 20 ° C. Is to provide.

  Furthermore, the present invention provides a cosmetic characterized in that the component (c) electrolyte is a cosmetic ingredient effective for the skin.

  The cosmetics of the present invention are excellent in dispersibility of powders in water even when an electrolyte is present in water, have good elongation spread when coated with cosmetics, do not feel sticky, have an emollient feeling on the back skin, and are stable over time. It is a cosmetic with excellent properties. For this reason, the present invention is useful particularly in packs, sunscreens, and makeup cosmetics that often contain powders for the purpose of makeup, ultraviolet shielding, and usability improvement.

Hereinafter, the present invention will be described in detail.
The component (a) powder used in the present invention is usually used in cosmetics for the purposes of colorants, skin color masking agents, ultraviolet screening agents, touch control agents, etc. There is no particular limitation. Specifically, inorganic oxides such as titanium oxide, zinc oxide, yellow iron oxide, black iron oxide, bengara, lithium cobalt titanate, titanium / titanium oxide sintered product, chromium hydroxide, manganese violet, carbon black, Talc, kaolin, mica, sericite, synthetic mica, calcium carbonate, aluminum silicate, silica, barium sulfate, boron nitride and other inorganic powders, nylon powder, polyethylene powder, polystyrene powder, polyalkyl methacrylate powder, polyurethane powder, Examples thereof include organic powders such as cellulose powder, trimethylsilsesquioxane powder, and organopolysiloxane elastomer powder. These powders can be used alone or in combination of two or more as required.

  These powders are, for example, silica treatment, treatment with silicone compounds such as dimethylpolysiloxane, methylhydrogenpolysiloxane, trimethylsiloxysilicic acid, perfluoropolyether phosphoric acid, perfluoroalkyl phosphoric acid, fluorine-modified silicone, etc. Surface treatment by generally known methods such as treatment with fluorine compounds, treatment with metal soaps such as zinc laurate, treatment with amino acids such as N-long chain acylamino acids, treatment with oils such as higher fatty acids, higher alcohols, esters and waxes You may use what is processed.

  Although the compounding quantity of the component (a) in the cosmetics of this invention is not specifically limited, 0.1-30 mass% (henceforth "%" only) is preferable, 0.5-20% Is more preferable. When component (a) is blended in this range, a cosmetic having a sufficient powder blending effect and powder dispersibility can be obtained.

  The component (b) lysophospholipid used in the present invention is used as a powder dispersant in the present invention. Further, by using lysophospholipid, an emollient effect can be imparted to the skin. In addition, a feeling of use with less stickiness can be obtained as compared with the case of using an ordinary dispersant.

  The component (b) lysophospholipid used in the present invention is one of enzyme-modified phospholipids, and the ester bond at the 2-position is hydrolyzed by phospholipase or the like. The lysophospholipid used in the present invention is preferably one that has been subjected to an enzyme treatment under conditions such that the lysophospholipid lysolysis rate (the ratio of lysophospholipid in the total phospholipid) is 50% or more. Unlike a phospholipid having a double-chain fatty acid, a lysophospholipid has a single-chain fatty acid and thus has high hydrophilicity and has a chemical property different from that of a phospholipid. When lysophospholipid is used as a dispersant, the dispersion stability of the powder at high temperature in the presence of an electrolyte or in the presence of an acid will be good.

  In the present invention, among lysophospholipids, lysophospholipid having a lysophosphatidylcholine content of 30% or more is more preferable from the viewpoint of stability over time. The lysophospholipid of the present invention can be derived from egg yolk or soybean. A hydrogenated product can also be used.

  Although the compounding quantity of the lysophospholipid of the component (b) in the cosmetics of this invention is not specifically limited, 0.001-5% is preferable and 0.01-2% is more preferable. When the component (b) is contained in this range, a cosmetic excellent in use feeling such as no stickiness and good spread and emollient feeling on the back skin can be obtained. In addition, the stability over time is good.

  In the cosmetic of the present invention, the blending mass ratio of the component (a) powder and the component (b) lysophospholipid is preferably 60: 1 to 3: 1. Within this range, the dispersibility and temporal stability of the powder will be even better.

  As the electrolyte of the component (c) used in the present invention, any organic or inorganic substance can be used as long as it is usually used as a cosmetic. Specific examples include inorganic electrolytes such as sodium chloride, magnesium chloride, calcium chloride, potassium aluminum sulfate, and sodium hydrogen phosphate, glycyrrhizinates, glycyrrhetinate, salicylate, tranexamic acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid Salt, edetate, L-alanine, β-alanine, L-arginine, L-arginine hydrochloride, L-asparagine monohydrate, L-aspartic acid, polyaspartic acid, L-citrulline, L-cysteine, L Cysteine hydrochloride monohydrate, L-cystine, L-dopa, L-glutamic acid, L-glutamic acid hydrochloride, L-glutamine, polyglutamic acid, glycine, trimethylglycine, L-histidine, L-histidine hydrochloride monohydrate Japanese, L-hydroxyproline, L-isoleucine L-leucine, L-lysine, L-lysine hydrochloride, L-methionine, L-ornithine hydrochloride, L-proline, L-phenylalanine, L-serine, L-threonine, L-tryptophan, L-tyrosine, L- Amino acids and amino acid derivatives such as valine, L-α aminobutyric acid, L-ascorbic acid and L-ascorbic acid derivatives, α-hydroxy acid salts such as citrate, lactate, succinate and malate, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid A salt etc. are mentioned, 1 type or 2 types or more can be used as needed from these.

  Among them, even when powders exist in cosmetics, electrolyte cosmetic ingredients that need to be mixed in a considerable amount in order to impart whitening effect, moisturizing effect, astringent effect, keratolytic effect, etc. to the skin By this invention, it became possible to mix | blend stably. Specific examples of the electrolyte cosmetic component include glutamic acid, lysine, arginine, N-acyl glutamic acid, glutamate, polyglutamic acid, polyaspartic acid and other amino acids and derivatives thereof, and citric acid, lactic acid, sodium lactate and other α-hydroxy. Acids and salts thereof, ascorbic acid, L-ascorbic acid-2-sodium phosphate, L-ascorbic acid-2-magnesium phosphate, ascorbic acid such as glucoside and its derivatives, sodium pyrrolidonecarboxylate, dipotassium glycyrrhizinate, Examples include urea, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonate, and hydroxymethoxybenzophenone sulfonate. These electrolyte cosmetic ingredients can be used singly or in combination of two or more as required.

  The blending amount of the component (c) electrolyte in the cosmetic of the present invention varies depending on the type of the electrolyte and is not particularly limited, but is preferably 0.1 to 10%, more preferably 0.3 to 3%.

In the present invention, when the electrical conductivity of the cosmetic is in the range of 0.05 to 0.5 S / m at 20 ° C., the effect of the cosmetic of the present invention is remarkably exhibited and the powder dispersibility is improved. Excellent cosmetics can be obtained. If it is this range, the effect with respect to skin can fully be acquired, and stability with time is favorable.

  In the present invention, the electrical conductivity of the cosmetic was measured using an electrical conductivity meter CM-60G (manufactured by Toa Denpa Kogyo Co., Ltd.).

  The component (d) water used in the present invention is a component used as a dispersion medium for the component (a). Although the compounding quantity of the component (d) in the cosmetics of this invention is not specifically limited, 40 to 99% is preferable. When the component (d) is blended in this range, a cosmetic with particularly excellent dispersibility and elongation at the time of application of the cosmetic can be obtained.

  In addition to the above-mentioned essential components, the cosmetics of the present invention include, for example, surfactants, oils, water-soluble polymers, alcohols, gelling agents, film forming agents, resins, An ultraviolet absorber, a humectant, a pH adjuster, an antiseptic, an antibacterial agent, a fragrance, an antioxidant, a metal sequestering agent, a colorant, a beauty agent, and the like can be contained within a range that does not impair the effects of the present invention.

  The method for producing the cosmetic of the present invention is not particularly limited. For example, the components (b) and (c) are dissolved or dispersed in the component (d), the component (a) is added, and uniform dispersion is performed. And a method of dissolving or dispersing the components (b) and (c) in the component (d), adding an oil agent and a surfactant as necessary, adding the component (a) after emulsification, and uniformly dispersing Etc.

  The cosmetics of the present invention include skin lotions, emulsions, creams, sunscreens, packs, massages, beauty liquids, cleansings, cleanings, hairdressing cosmetics, foundations, eye shadows, white powders, blushers Makeup cosmetics such as concealer, mascara, eyeliner, eyebrow, and lipstick. Among these, makeup cosmetics such as sunscreens, packs, foundations and concealers are preferable because the effects of the present invention are remarkably exhibited.

  The dosage form of the present invention may be any dosage form such as an emulsified system such as an oil-in-water type or a water-in-oil type, an aqueous liquid type, or a solubilized type. Among these, the effects of the present invention are remarkably exhibited in oil-in-water emulsion systems, aqueous liquid types, and solubilized dosage forms.

  EXAMPLES Next, although an Example is given and this invention is further demonstrated, this invention is not limited at all by this.

Creamy oil-in-water pack: Examples 1-5, Reference Examples 6-10 and Comparative Examples 1-2
A creamy oil-in-water pack having the composition shown in Table 1 and Table 2 below was prepared by the following production method. (1) Feeling of use (good spread, no stickiness, emollient feeling of the back skin) (2 Table 1 and Table 1 are evaluated and determined by the following methods for the evaluation items of () powder dispersibility, (3) stability over time (powder aggregation / sedimentation), and (4) electrical conductivity. It was shown in 2.

(Production method)
A: Components (1) to (6) are heated and dissolved at 70 ° C.
B: Components (7) to (12) are heated to 70 ° C. and dissolved.
C: Components (13) to (15) and a part of components (9) and (10) are dispersed with a three-roller.
D: B is added to A and emulsified.
E: Cool D to room temperature.
F: C dispersed in part of the component (10) is added to E and mixed uniformly.
G: F was filled in a container to obtain a creamy oil-in-water pack.

[(1) Evaluation items: Feeling of use (good spread and spread, no sticky feeling, emollient feeling in the back skin)]
Twenty women with a makeup history of 10 years or more are given to the panel to use the creamy oil-in-water packs of the above examples and comparative examples, and the skin has good spread and no stickiness when applied to the skin. The emollient feeling was scored based on the following (b) 5-step absolute evaluation criteria, the average value of the scores of all the panels was determined, and judged according to the following (b) 4-step criteria.

(I) Five-step absolute evaluation criteria (Evaluation results): (Score)
5 points: very good 4 points: good 3 points: normal 2 points: bad 1 point: very bad (b) 4-step criteria (average score): (judgment)
Average score of 4.5 or more: ◎
Average score of 3.5 or more and less than 4.5: ○
Average score of 2.5 or more and less than 3.5: △
Average score of less than 2.5: ×

[(2) Evaluation item: Dispersibility of powder]
The cream-like oil-in-water packs of the Examples and Comparative Examples immediately after production were observed with an optical microscope (400 times), and judged according to the following criteria (c).
(C) Judgment criteria (Observation results): (Judgment)
No aggregation of powder: ◎
There is almost no aggregation of powder: 〇 There is small aggregation: △
There is large aggregation: ×

[(3) Evaluation item: Stability over time]
The creamy oil-in-water packs of Examples and Comparative Examples were stored at 40 ° C. for 1 month, and the state of the stored product (powder aggregation) was observed with an optical microscope and used for the dispersibility of the powder. (C) Judgment was made using criteria. Furthermore, the state of stored goods (powder settling) was determined according to the following criteria (d) after storing the creamy oil-in-water packs of Examples and Comparative Examples at 40 ° C. for one month.
(D) Four-step criteria (Observation results): (Judgment)
No change: ◎
There are minor changes: ○
There is a slight change: △
There is considerable change: ×

[(4) Evaluation item: Electrical conductivity]
The electrical conductivity at 20 ° C. of the cream-like oil-in-water type packaging materials of the Examples and Comparative Examples immediately after production was measured using an electric conductivity meter CM-60G (manufactured by Toa Denpa Kogyo Co., Ltd.).

  As is apparent from the results of Tables 1 and 2, the creamy oil-in-water type packs of Examples 1 to 10 have a powder dispersibility in water even when ascorbic acid glucoside as an electrolyte is present in water. Since it was excellent, it was a cosmetic that had good stretch spread at the time of applying the cosmetic, had no stickiness, and had excellent emollient feeling on the back skin and stability over time. On the other hand, in Comparative Example 1 in which hydrogenated soybean lysophospholipid was not blended and in Comparative Example 2 in which hydrogenated soybean phospholipid was blended instead, none of the feeling of use, powder dispersibility, and stability over time were good. .

Example 11: Oil-in-water type foundation (component) (%)
1. Silica-coated titanium oxide (silica coverage 10%) 10.0
2. Silica-coated Bengala (silica coverage 10%) 0.2
3. Silica-coated yellow iron oxide (silica coverage 10%) 1.0
4). Silica-coated black iron oxide (silica coverage 10%) 0.1
5). Talc 3.0
6). Hydrogenated soybean lysophospholipid (lysophosphatidylcholine content 30%) 0.3
7). Decaglyceryl diisostearate 0.5
8). Decaglyceryl pentaisostearate 0.5
9.1,3-Butylene glycol 10.0
10. Ascorbic acid glucoside 0.5
11. Sodium hydroxide
12 Purified water remaining
13. Xanthan gum 0.2

(Production method)
A: Components (1) to (9) are dispersed with a three-roller.
B: Components (10) to (13) are heated to 70 ° C., mixed and dissolved uniformly, and then cooled to room temperature.
C: A is added to B and mixed uniformly.
D: C was filled into a container to obtain an oil-in-water foundation.

  Since the oil-in-water foundation of Example 11 is excellent in powder dispersibility, it has good elongation spread at the time of applying cosmetics, does not feel sticky, does not dry the skin over time, and is stable over time. It was an excellent cosmetic. The electrical conductivity of Example 12 at 20 ° C. was 0.08 S / m.

Example 12: Oil-in-water sunscreen (component) (%)
1. Glyceryl monostearate 1.0
2. Sorbitan stearate 0.5
3. Monooleic acid polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan 0.5
4). Cetostearyl alcohol 1.5
5). Octyl methoxycinnamate 8.0
6). t-Butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane 0.5
7). Glyceryl tri-2-ethylhexanoate 3.0
8). Stearoyl methyl taurine sodium 0.5
9. Phenylbenzimidazolesulfonic acid 2.0
10. Sodium hydroxide appropriate amount11. Dipropylene glycol 7.0
12 Purified water remaining amount 13. Xanthan gum 0.1
14 Silica coated fine particle zinc oxide 1.0
15. Hydrogenated soybean lysophospholipid (lysophosphatidylcholine content 70%) 0.2
16. Ethanol 5.0

(Production method)
A: Components (1) to (7) are heated to 70 ° C. and dissolved.
B: Components (8) to (13) are heated and dissolved at 70 ° C.
C: A is added to B and emulsified.
D: C is cooled to room temperature.
E: (14) and (15) dispersed in a part of (12) are added to D and mixed.
F: Add (16) to E and mix.
G: F was filled in a container to obtain an oil-in-water sunscreen.

  Since the oil-in-water sunscreen of Example 12 is excellent in powder dispersibility, it has good elongation spread at the time of applying cosmetics, does not feel sticky, does not dry the skin after application, and It was a cosmetic with excellent stability. The electrolyte cosmetic component of Example 13 was phenylbenzimidazole sulfonate, and the electrical conductivity at 20 ° C. was 0.35 S / m.

Claims (2)

The following components (a) to (d);
(A) Powder 0.5-20 mass%
(B) Lysophospholipid containing lysophosphatidylcholine 0.01-2% by mass
(C) Electrolyte selected from ascorbic acid and its derivatives 0.3-3 mass%
(D) Water is blended, the electrical conductivity of the cosmetic is 0.05 to 0.5 S / m at 20 ° C., and the blending mass ratio of the component (a) and the component (b) is 60: 1 to 3 A cosmetic product characterized by having a ratio of 1 to 1.   The cosmetic according to claim 1, wherein the component (c) electrolyte is a cosmetic ingredient effective for the skin.