JP4273508B2

JP4273508B2 - Binding fabric

Info

Publication number: JP4273508B2
Application number: JP2000003657A
Authority: JP
Inventors: 進一朗小仲; 聖直井筒
Original assignee: Kawashima Selkon Textiles Co Ltd
Current assignee: Kawashima Selkon Textiles Co Ltd
Priority date: 2000-01-12
Filing date: 2000-01-12
Publication date: 2009-06-03
Anticipated expiration: 2020-01-12
Also published as: JP2001200448A

Description

【０００１】
【発明の属する技術分野】
本発明は、綴れ織に関するものである。
【０００２】
【従来の技術】
綴れ織の特徴は、その表面に描出される絵模様を構成する各部の色彩に応じた数種類の色糸を緯糸（以下、色緯糸と言う。）とし、その絵模様を構成する各部の色彩に応じて選択的に色緯糸が織り込まれて芯経糸を被覆して織物の表面に絵模様を描出しており、その選択された色緯糸は、その色彩に色取られる絵模様の一部にだけ織り込まれており、その色彩に色取られない部分では織物の裏側にも回り込んでおらず、互いに隣合って異色となる絵模様の形際では、その隣合う色緯糸がそれぞれ折り返され、色緯糸が緯方向に連続しない間隙（孔）が形成される織物の織組織構造にある。
【０００３】
綴れ織の他の特徴は、色緯糸に被覆される芯経糸の全てが、色緯糸に交絡する箇所において色緯糸に押し下げられたり押し上げられることなく、経方向に柱状一直線状に連続しており、従って、芯経糸を被覆する色緯糸の全てが柱状一直線状に連続する芯経糸の表裏に迂回し曲折して緯方向に連続しており、織物の表面に芯経糸が全く現れず、織物の表面が色緯糸によってのみ色取られる点にある。
【０００４】
綴れ織の他の特徴は、全ての芯経糸が柱状一直線状に経方向に連続し、全ての色緯糸が芯経糸の表裏に迂回し曲折して芯経糸を被覆しているので、芯経糸に沿って経方向に一直線状に続く畝状隆起と、その畝状隆起に対応する谷溝が隣合う芯経糸と芯経糸の間に形成される点にある。
【０００５】
綴れ織の長所は、織り込む色緯糸の色数に制限がなく、芯経糸が表面に現れず、色緯糸によって多色多彩な絵模様を描出することが出来、畝状隆起と谷溝が平行して独特の美観を呈し、高級織物としての印象を与える点にある。綴れ織の短所は、絵模様の形際に色緯糸が緯方向に連続しない間隙（孔）が出来る点と、絵模様を構成する各部分毎に選択的に色緯糸を織り込むので、その製織は手織り織機を使用しての手作業になり、製織効率が非常に悪くコスト高になる点にある。
【０００６】
【発明が解決しようとする課題】
綴れ織を同様の特徴を有する綴調織物を自動織機を用いて効率的に製織する種々の試みがなされている。本願出願人は、その一つの方法を特開平６−３４６３４１号に開示している。その方法では、織り込む色緯糸の色数が無制限であり、多数の色緯糸を自動的に選択して織り込むことが出来、織幅よりも長い色緯糸を織前に供給することよって、芯経糸２１に沿った畝状隆起１７を形成することが出来る。
【０００７】
しかしながら、色緯糸１４は機械的に経糸間の開口に打ち込まれるので織物の耳端から耳端まで連続することになり、色緯糸１４の織物の表面に浮き出て芯経糸２１の表面を被覆しない部分１６（以下、沈み糸と言う。）では織物の裏側に連続して浮き出すことになる。しかし、織物の表面に描出する絵模様の色数が増え、織物の緯糸一段毎に選択的に打ち込まれる色緯糸１４の数も増えると、その裏側に浮き出る沈み糸１６の数も増え、織物の裏面が無数の沈み糸１６の並んだ軟弱なウエブ層になり、その沈み糸１６が引っ掛けられて表面絵模様が綻び易くなる。
【０００８】
その場合、図１に図示するように、織物の裏側に綴じ経糸２０を配置し、沈み糸１６を綴じ経糸２０に交絡させて浮き出さないように抑え込むことも考えられるが、各緯糸一段毎に無数に生じる全ての沈み糸１６を綴じ経糸２０に交絡させると、その綴じ経糸２０が引っ掛けられると芋蔓式に全ての沈み糸１６が引き抜かれることにもなり、又、絵模様の色数が増えると沈み糸１６が浮き出る長さも長くなるので沈み糸１６と綴じ経糸２０の交絡箇所がルーズになって、綴じ経糸２０による沈み糸１６の抑え込みが不十分になる。
【０００９】
【発明の目的】
そこで本発明は、自動織機において各緯糸一段毎に多数の色緯糸を選択的に織り込んで織成される綴調織物本体２２の裏側に、綴じ経糸１２・１３を配置し、芯経糸１１と色緯糸１４の形成する綴調織物本体２２とは別に、綴じ経糸１２・１３と綴じ緯糸１５による裏織地１９を形成し、その裏織地１９に色緯糸の沈み糸１６を織り込んで耐久性に優れた綴調織物を効率的に提供することを目的とする。
【００１０】
【課題を解決するための手段】
本発明は、引き揃えられた複数本の糸条Ｐ・Ｈを１組として芯経糸１１が構成され、その複数本１組の芯経糸１１と色緯糸１４が綴調織物本体２２を形成し、色緯糸１４の綴調織物本体２２の表側に現れない部分が複数本の芯経糸１１に連続して接結しない沈み糸１６になっており、その色緯糸１４の沈み糸１６の浮き出る綴調織物本体２２の裏側に裏綴じ経糸１３が配置され、色緯糸１４とは別に綴じ緯糸１５が打ち込まれ、複数本１組の芯経糸１１の一部の糸条Ｐ・Ｈと裏綴じ経糸１３と綴じ緯糸１５による裏織地１９が綴調織物本体２２の裏側に形成され、その裏織地１９に色緯糸の沈み糸１６が織り込まれ、選択的に裏織地１９から色緯糸１４が浮き出て芯経糸１１の上を越え、その越える芯経糸１１に隣合う左右の芯経糸１１の下を潜って織物の耳端から耳端まで続いており、その越える色緯糸１４が、その越える芯経糸１１を被覆して綴調織物本体２２の表面を構成している綴調織物を第１の特徴とする。
【００１１】
本発明の第２の特徴は、芯経糸１１と色緯糸１４が綴調織物本体２２を形成し、色緯糸１４の綴調織物本体２２の表側に現れない部分が複数本の芯経糸１１に連続して接結しない沈み糸１６になっており、その色緯糸１４の沈み糸１６の浮き出る綴調織物本体２２の裏側に表綴じ経糸１２と裏綴じ経糸１３が表裏に分かれて配置され、色緯糸１４とは別に綴じ緯糸１５が打ち込まれ、表綴じ経糸１２と裏綴じ経糸１３と綴じ緯糸１５による裏織地１９が綴調織物本体２２の裏側に形成され、その裏織地１９に色緯糸の沈み糸１６が織り込まれ、色緯糸１４が選択的に裏織地１９から浮き出て芯経糸１１Ｂの上を越え、その越える芯経糸１１Ｂに隣合う左右の芯経糸１１Ａ・１１Ｃの下を潜って織物の耳端から耳端まで続いており、その越える色緯糸１４が、その越える芯経糸１１Ｂを被覆して綴調織物本体２２の表面を構成しており、芯経糸１１の太さを表綴じ経糸１２よりも太くした綴調織物にある。
【００１２】
【発明の実施の形態】
本発明の第２の特徴は、本発明の第１の特徴を有する綴調織物において複数本が１組になって芯経糸１１を構成する複数本の糸条Ｐ・Ｈの中で、裏綴じ経糸１３と綴じ緯糸１５と共に裏織地１９を構成する糸条Ｐを細くし、裏織地１９を構成しない糸条Ｈを太くし、両者を太さによって使い分けたことにある。
【００１３】
色緯糸１４は織物の表面に描出する絵模様の各部の色彩に応じて多数用意される。その用意された一種類或いは数種類の色緯糸１４Ａ・１４Ｂ・１４Ｃ………は、織物の緯糸一段毎に絵模様の各部の色彩に応じて選択し、その織物の緯糸一段毎に絵模様の各部の色彩に応じて数回選択的に開口を形成して芯経糸間に織り込まれる。即ち、織物の各緯糸一段毎に絵模様の各部の色彩に応じて色緯糸１４Ａ・１４Ｂ・１４Ｃ………を選択し、その選択される各色緯糸１４毎に芯経糸を選択して開口し、その各緯糸一段おける各開口毎に選択される何れかの色緯糸を打ち込み、織前の緯方向に配列された全ての芯経糸が、何れかの色緯糸１４Ａ・１４Ｂ・１４Ｃ………に被覆されてしまう毎に、綴じ緯糸１５が打ち込まれて織物が１ピック分づつ巻き取られる。多数の色緯糸１４を選択的に打ち込むには、前記の特開平６−３４６３４１号に開示された装置を利用するとよく、色緯糸１４と綴じ緯糸１５は織物の耳端から耳端まで連続したものとなる。
【００１４】
各緯糸一段毎の各色緯糸１４の打ち込み長さ（織前への供給長さ）は、織幅（織前の長さ）よりも長くする。そうすると、織幅（織前の長さ）よりも長い色緯糸１４のダブツキ分が表裏に迂回曲折して芯経糸１１を被覆し、芯経糸１１が交絡する色緯糸１４に押し下げられることも押し上げられることもなく経方向に柱状一直線状に連続し、隣合う芯経糸の間を谷溝１８とする畝状隆起１７が芯経糸１１の長さ方向に沿って織物の表面に形成され、綴れ織と同様の美観を呈した綴調織物が得られる。
【００１５】
図２は本発明の第１の特徴を図示するものであり、織物の裏側に裏綴じ経糸１３を配置すると共に、各芯経糸１１を複数本の糸条Ｈ・Ｐ・Ｈ・Ｐ・Ｈを一組として構成し、それら複数本の糸条Ｈ・Ｐ・Ｈ・Ｐ・Ｈを引き揃え、色緯糸１４とは別に綴じ緯糸１５を織り込み、各芯経糸１１を構成する一部の糸条Ｐと裏綴じ経糸１３と綴じ緯糸１５による裏織地１９を形成し、その裏織地１９に沈み糸１６が織り込まれている。綴じ緯糸１５は、複数本一組となる芯経糸１１の一部の糸条Ｐの上（表側）を越えて交絡するだけなので、色緯糸１４とは異なり綴調織物本体２２の表面に浮き出ることはなく、色緯糸１４が綴調織物本体２２の表面に描出する絵模様の美観を損なわない。又、各芯経糸１１を構成する一部の糸条Ｐが裏織地１９を構成しているので、その裏織地１９が織物の裏側に浮き上がることはなく、沈み糸１６は、裏織地１９の中に封じ込まれるので引っ掻き出されるような不具合は起こらない。
【００１６】
図３は本発明の第２の特徴を図示するものであり、芯経糸１１と表綴じ経糸１２と裏綴じ経糸１３と色緯糸１４と綴じ緯糸１５によって綴調織物が織成されている。芯経糸１１は、表綴じ経糸１２よりも太くなっている。表綴じ経糸１２と裏綴じ経糸１３は織物の表側と裏側に分かれて位置し、綴じ緯糸１５が表綴じ経糸１２と裏綴じ経糸１３に交絡して綴調織物本体２２の裏側に裏織地１９を形成している。芯経糸１１は、裏織地１９に対して綴調織物の表側に配置されており、綴じ緯糸１５と交絡することなく裏織地１９の上に浮いている。色緯糸１４は、裏織地１９に織り込まれて選択的に裏織地１９から浮き出ており、その裏織地１９から浮き出された色緯糸１４が、芯経糸１１Ｂの上を越え、その越える芯経糸１１Ｂに隣合う左右の芯経糸１１Ａ・１１Ｃの下を潜って織物の耳端から耳端まで続いており、その越える色緯糸１４が、その越える芯経糸１１Ｂを被覆して綴調織物の表面を構成している。
【００１７】
色緯糸１４は、芯経糸１１の上を越えない箇所において、表綴じ経糸１２（Ｐ）の下（裏側に）を潜っている。表面に多彩な絵模様が描出された綴調織物では、色緯糸１４は、互いに色彩が異なる数種類の色糸１４Ａ・１４Ｂ・１４Ｃ………による群を構成しており、その群をなす数種類の色糸１４Ａ・１４Ｂ・１４Ｃ………が選択的に織り込まれ、その選択的に織り込まれた数種類の色糸１４Ａ・１４Ｂ・１４Ｃ………が選択的に裏織地１９から浮き出て綴調織物本体２２の表面を構成している。裏織地１９から浮き出て芯経糸１１Ｂの上を越える色緯糸１４は、その越える芯経糸１１Ｂに隣合う左右の芯経糸１１Ａ・１１Ｃの下を潜り、その越える芯経糸１１Ｂと隣合う芯経糸１１Ａ・１１Ｃの間を谷溝１８として、その越える芯経糸１１Ｂの長さ方向に沿った畝状隆起１７が形成している。
【００１８】
綴じ緯糸１５には色緯糸１４よりも細い糸条、特に、合成繊維のマルチフイラメント糸を使用するとよい。綴じ緯糸１５は、色緯糸１４が芯経糸間（１１Ａと１１Ｂ，１１Ｂと１４Ｃ………）の開口に打ち込まれ、織前の緯方向に配列された全ての芯経糸が何れかの色緯糸１４に被覆されてから、表綴じ経糸１２（Ｐ）と裏綴じ経糸１３の開口に打ち込まれる。綴じ緯糸１５は、織物の複数の緯段につき１回の割合で表綴じ経糸１２（Ｐ）や裏綴じ経糸１３に交絡（接結）させる。表綴じ経糸１２（Ｐ）は、芯経糸１１（Ｈ）と対をなし、表綴じ経糸１本につき芯経糸１本の割合で配列するが、裏綴じ経糸１３は、複数本の芯経糸１１（Ｈ）或いは複数本の表綴じ経糸１２（Ｐ）につき１本の割合で配列してもよい。
【００１９】
図４は緯糸打ち込み各段の織前における綴調織物の断面図である。色緯糸１４の沈み糸１６は、図２と図３に図示する如く、裏織地１９に織り込まれるが、図面が複雑になるので省略されている。尚、沈み糸１６は、図２と図３に図示する如く、色緯糸１４Ａが芯経糸１１Ａを越え、それに隣合う芯経糸１１Ｂの下に潜る沈み糸１６となって続くとき、その潜る芯経糸１１Ｂの下に位置する裏綴じ経糸１３の下にまでも潜って裏織地１９の裏面に現れるようにする必要はなく、図２と図３に図示する色緯糸１４Ｃの如く、その潜る芯経糸１１Ｂ（Ｈ）の下に位置する表綴じ経糸１２（Ｐ）の下に潜り、表綴じ経糸１２（Ｐ）と裏綴じ経糸１３に挟まれた中間層を形成するように裏織地１９に織り込めばよい。
【００２０】
図４において、（１）は緯糸打ち込み第一段における断面、（２）は緯糸打ち込み第二段における断面、（３）は緯糸打ち込み第三段における断面、（４）は緯糸打ち込み第四段における断面、（５）は緯糸打ち込み第五段における断面、（６）は緯糸打ち込み第六段における断面、（７）は緯糸打ち込み第七段における断面、（８）は緯糸打ち込み第八段における断面、（９）は緯糸打ち込み第九段における断面、（１０）は緯糸打ち込み第十段における断面を図示するものである。綴じ緯糸１５は、表綴じ経糸１２（Ｐ）と裏綴じ経糸１３に対し、それぞれ織物の緯糸打ち込み各段で１０本につき１回の割合で交絡（接結）し、その交絡点（接結点）と交絡点（接結点）の間では表綴じ経糸１２（Ｐ）と裏綴じ経糸１３の間に挟まれており、綴調織物の裏面に連続して浮き出さない。
【００２１】
即ち、綴じ緯糸１５は、表綴じ経糸１２（Ｐ）に対しては綴調織物本体側において経面繻子（経繻子）となる１０枚繻子を構成し、裏綴じ経糸１３に対しては裏織地１９の裏面において経面繻子（経繻子）となる１０枚繻子を構成している。緯糸打ち込み各段における綴じ緯糸１５の表綴じ経糸１２（Ｐ）と裏綴じ経糸１３との接結点は、表綴じ経糸１２（Ｐ）との接結点が表綴じ経糸１２（Ｐ）との接結点と接結点の中間に位置し、裏綴じ経糸１３との接結点が表綴じ経糸１２（Ｐ）との接結点と接結点の中間に位置し、裏織地１９の表裏の接結点が互いに他方の接結点と接結点の中間に位置するようになっている。
【００２２】
このように裏織地１９は、綴じ緯糸１５が、表綴じ経糸１２（Ｐ）に対しては綴調織物本体側において、裏綴じ経糸１３に対しては裏織地１９の裏面において、それぞれ経面繻子（経繻子）となる１０枚ないし１６枚の繻子織組織を構成するようにすると、綴調織物の表面に平坦に続く段差のハッキリした畝状隆起１７と谷溝１８が形成されて綴れ織に酷似したものとなり、綴調織物の裏面においては芯経糸１１と色緯糸１４が形成する綴調織物本体と裏織地１９の間にダブツキがなく、色緯糸１４の打ち込みが緻密で腰のある綴調織物が得られる。この点、裏織地１９が１６枚を越える経二重繻子織組織になると、表綴じ経糸１２（Ｐ）と綴じ緯糸１５との接結点において、綴調織物本体２２が裏織地１９に引っ張り込まれて綴調織物の表面に窪みが出来易く、それとは逆に、裏織地１９が１０枚未満の経二重繻子織組織になると、裏織地１９が重厚で硬く色緯糸１４の打ち込みが困難になって綴れ織に酷似した織物が得難くなる。従って、綴じ緯糸１５が、経糸方向においては緯糸打ち込み１０〜１６段につき１回の割合で、緯糸方向においては１０〜１６本の芯経糸１１（表綴じ経糸１２・Ｐ）につき１回の割合で、それぞれ表綴じ経糸１２（Ｐ）と裏綴じ経糸１３に接結するように裏織地１９を構成することが推奨される。
尚、表綴じ経糸１２（Ｐ）と綴じ緯糸１５との接結点において、綴調織物本体２２が裏織地１９に引っ張り込まれて綴調織物の表面に窪みが出来易くなることを利用して、部分的に、或いは全体に均等に凹凸を付けて綴調織物に立体感を付与することも出来、その場合は、裏織地１９を１６枚を越える経二重繻子織組織にする。
【００２３】
手織り織機を用いた手作業で織成される綴れ織とは異なり、本発明の綴調織物は自動織機（力織機）で織成される。その自動織機には、織物の各緯糸一段毎に絵模様の各部の色彩に応じて色緯糸１４Ａ・１４Ｂ・１４Ｃ………を自動的に選択する色緯糸選択装置や、その選択された色緯糸毎に芯経糸を選択して自動的に開口する開口装置、及び、それらの装置を制禦するコンピューターを搭載することが出来る。そのコンピューターでは、色緯糸の選択される状況を知ることが出来、その色緯糸の選択状況を演算処理し、その色緯糸の選択状況に応じて裏織地１９の織組織を変え、何れの緯糸打ち込み一段において、何れの表綴じ経糸１２（Ｐ）或いは何れの裏綴じ経糸１３に綴じ緯糸１５を接結せさるべきかを決定することが出来る。特に、沈み糸１６が表綴じ経糸１２（Ｐ）と裏綴じ経糸１３に挟まれた長く連続した中間層を裏織地１９に形成することになる場合には、その長く連続する沈み糸１６を適宜裏綴じ経糸１３に接結させる。その場合、沈み糸１６と裏綴じ経糸１３との接結点は、綴じ緯糸１５と裏綴じ経糸１３との接結点に重複させず、綴じ緯糸１５と裏綴じ経糸１３の接結点と接結点の中間において、好ましくは、綴じ緯糸１５と裏綴じ経糸１３との接結点の付近で沈み糸１６を裏綴じ経糸１３に接結させる。
【００２４】
【発明の効果】
本発明（請求項１）によると、綴じ緯糸１５は、裏綴じ経糸１３によって織物の裏側へと引き込まれる一方、芯経糸１１（Ｈ）は、綴じ緯糸１５によって織物の裏側へと引き込まれることはなく、綴じ緯糸１５が織物の表面に現われることもない。そして、色緯糸１４の沈み糸１６は、織物の裏側に綴じ緯糸１５と表綴じ経糸１１（Ｐ）と裏綴じ経糸１２によって形成される裏織地１９に織り込まれて裏面に浮き出ないので、沈み糸１６が引っ掛けられて表面の絵模様が形崩れを起こしたり、畝状隆起１７や谷溝１８が綻びることなく、色緯糸１４が織物の耳端から耳端まで連続していて自動織機（力織機）で織成することが出来るので、綴れ織に酷似した耐久性に富む綴調織物を効率的に得ることが出来る。
【００２５】
本発明（請求項２）によると、表綴じ経糸１２が、芯経糸１１より細く、而も、綴じ緯糸１５によって織物の裏側へと引き込まれて織物の表面に現われることはなく、色緯糸１４が越える芯経糸１１が裏織地１９の綴調織物本体側を構成する表綴じ経糸１２よりも太く、色緯糸の沈み糸１６が表綴じ経糸１２に抑え込まれているので、畝状隆起１７と谷溝１８の起伏のハッキリした綴調織物が得られる。
【図面の簡単な説明】
【図１】従来の綴調織物の要部拡大斜視図である。
【図２】本発明に係る綴調織物の要部拡大斜視図である。
【図３】本発明に係る綴調織物の要部拡大斜視図である。
【図４】本発明に係る綴調織物の緯糸打ち込み各段毎の織前における断面図である。
【符号の説明】
１１芯経糸
１２表綴じ経糸
１３裏綴じ経糸
１４色緯糸
１５綴じ緯糸
１６沈み糸
１７畝状隆起
１８谷溝
１９裏織地
２０綴じ経糸
２１芯経糸
２２綴調織物本体[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a bound weave.
[0002]
[Prior art]
The feature of the weaving weave is that we use several types of color yarn according to the color of each part constituting the picture drawn on the surface as the weft (hereinafter referred to as color weft), and the color of each part constituting the picture pattern. Color wefts are selectively woven according to the core warp, and a pattern is drawn on the surface of the fabric. The selected color wefts are only part of the pattern colored by the color. In the part of the pattern that is woven, and does not wrap around the back of the fabric in the part that is not colored by the color. The woven fabric has a woven structure in which gaps (holes) in which the wefts are not continuous in the weft direction are formed.
[0003]
Another feature of the woven fabric is that all the core warp yarns covered by the color wefts are continuous in a columnar straight line in the warp direction without being pushed down or pushed up by the color weft yarns at the locations where they are entangled with the color weft yarns, Therefore, all the color wefts covering the core warp yarn are detoured around the front and back of the core warp yarns that are continuous in a columnar shape and are continuous in the weft direction, so that no core warp yarn appears on the surface of the fabric, and the surface of the fabric. Is colored only by the color weft.
[0004]
Another feature of the woven fabric is that all the core warp yarns are continuous in the warp direction in a columnar straight line, and all the color wefts are bent around the front and back of the core warp yarn to cover the core warp yarn. A saddle-like ridge that extends straight along the warp direction and a trough corresponding to the saddle-like ridge are formed between adjacent core warps and core warps.
[0005]
The advantages of the weaving weaving are that there are no restrictions on the number of color weft yarns to be woven, the core warp yarn does not appear on the surface, and a multicolored and colorful pattern can be drawn with the color weft yarns. It has a unique beauty and gives an impression as a high-class fabric. Disadvantages of stitch weaving are that weaves (holes) where the color wefts do not continue in the weft direction when forming the pattern, and weaving the color wefts selectively for each part of the pattern, so weaving This is a manual operation using a hand-weaving loom, and the weaving efficiency is very poor and the cost is high.
[0006]
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
Various attempts have been made to efficiently weave a knitted fabric having the same characteristics as a bound weave using an automatic loom. The present applicant has disclosed one method in Japanese Patent Laid-Open No. 6-346341. In this method, the number of color weft yarns to be woven is unlimited, a large number of color weft yarns can be automatically selected and woven, and by supplying a color weft yarn longer than the woven width before weaving, the core warp yarn 21 Can be formed.
[0007]
However, since the color wefts 14 are mechanically driven into the openings between the warp yarns, the color weft yarns continue from the ear ends to the ear ends, and the portions of the color weft yarns 14 that are raised on the fabric surface and do not cover the surface of the core warp yarn 21. No. 16 (hereinafter referred to as “sinking yarn”) is continuously raised on the back side of the fabric. However, if the number of colors of the pattern drawn on the surface of the fabric increases and the number of color wefts 14 that are selectively driven for each weft of the fabric increases, the number of sinking yarns 16 that float on the back side also increases. The back surface becomes a soft web layer in which countless sagging yarns 16 are lined up, and the sagging yarns 16 are hooked and the surface picture pattern is likely to break.
[0008]
In this case, as shown in FIG. 1, it is possible to arrange the binding warp 20 on the back side of the woven fabric and entangle the sagging yarn 16 with the binding warp 20 so as not to be raised. When all of the infinite number of set yarns 16 are entangled with the binding warp yarn 20, when the binding warp yarn 20 is hooked, all the set yarns 16 are pulled out in a vine manner, and when the number of colors of the pattern increases. Since the length at which the sagging yarn 16 is lifted also becomes longer, the entangled portion of the sacrificial yarn 16 and the binding warp 20 becomes loose, and the suppression of the sagging yarn 16 by the binding warp 20 becomes insufficient.
[0009]
OBJECT OF THE INVENTION
Therefore, in the present invention, the binding warp yarns 12 and 13 are arranged on the back side of the main body 22 which is woven by selectively weaving a large number of color weft yarns for each weft in the automatic loom, and the core warp yarn 11 and the color are arranged. Separately from the woven fabric main body 22 formed by the wefts 14, a back woven fabric 19 is formed by the binding warp yarns 12 and 13 and the binding weft yarn 15, and the sag 16 of the color weft yarn is woven into the back woven fabric 19 for excellent durability. An object is to efficiently provide a stitched fabric.
[0010]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
In the present invention, a core warp yarn 11 is constituted by a set of a plurality of aligned yarns P and H, and the core warp yarn 11 and the color weft yarn 14 of the set of the plurality of yarns form a staple fabric body 22; The portion of the color weft 14 that does not appear on the front side of the main body 22 of the staple fabric is a set yarn 16 that is not continuously connected to the plurality of core warps 11, and the bind fabric that the set yarn 16 of the color weft 14 is raised. A back-bound warp 13 is arranged on the back side of the main body 22, and a binding weft 15 is driven in addition to the color weft 14, and a part of the yarns P and H of the core warp 11 and the back-bound warp 13 are bound together. A woven fabric 19 made of the weft 15 is formed on the back side of the main body 22 of the spelled fabric, and a set yarn 16 of the color weft is woven into the woven fabric 19, and the color weft 14 is selectively raised from the woven fabric 19 to form the core warp 11. Below the left and right core warps 11 that are above and over the core warp 11 A first feature of the stitched fabric that is dive and continues from the ear end to the ear end of the fabric, and that the overlying weft yarn 14 covers the overlying core warp 11 and constitutes the surface of the stitched fabric main body 22. And
[0011]
The second feature of the present invention is that the core warp yarn 11 and the color weft yarn 14 form a binding fabric body 22, and the portion of the color weft yarn 14 that does not appear on the front side of the binding fabric body 22 is continuous with the plurality of core warp yarns 11. In this case, the front and back warp yarns 12 and 13 are arranged separately on the front and back sides of the main body 22 of the stitched fabric where the set yarn 16 of the color weft 14 is raised. 14, a binding weft 15 is driven, and a front woven warp 12, a back-bound warp 13, and a back woven fabric 19 formed by the binding weft 15 are formed on the back side of the binding fabric main body 22, and a color weft sag is formed on the back woven fabric 19. 16 is woven, and the color wefts 14 are selectively raised from the back woven fabric 19 and over the core warp yarn 11B, and under the left and right core warp yarns 11A and 11C adjacent to the core warp yarn 11B, the ear ends of the fabric To the end of the ear and beyond Weft 14 constitutes the surface of the binding regulating fabric body 22 covers the core warps 11B beyond that, there the thickness of the core warps 11 spelling tone fabric thicker than Table binding warps 12.
[0012]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
The second feature of the present invention is the back stitching among the plurality of yarns P and H constituting the core warp yarn 11 as a pair in the stapled fabric having the first feature of the present invention. That is, the yarn P that constitutes the woven fabric 19 together with the warp 13 and the binding weft 15 is thinned, the yarn H that does not constitute the woven fabric 19 is thickened, and both are properly used depending on the thickness.
[0013]
A large number of color wefts 14 are prepared according to the color of each part of the picture drawn on the surface of the fabric. The prepared one or several types of color wefts 14A, 14B, 14C,... Are selected according to the color of each part of the pattern for each weft of the fabric, and each part of the pattern for each stage of the weft of the fabric. The openings are selectively formed several times according to the colors of the yarns and woven between the core warps. That is, the color wefts 14A, 14B, 14C,... Are selected according to the color of each part of the pattern for each weft of the fabric, and the core warp 14 is selected and opened for each selected color weft 14. Any one of the selected color wefts is driven for each opening in each weft, and all the core warp yarns arranged in the weft direction before weaving are covered on any of the color weft yarns 14A, 14B, 14C. Each time it is done, the binding weft 15 is driven and the fabric is wound by one pick. In order to selectively drive a large number of color wefts 14, it is preferable to use the apparatus disclosed in the above-mentioned Japanese Patent Application Laid-Open No. 6-346341. The color wefts 14 and the binding wefts 15 are continuous from the ear ends to the ear ends of the fabric. It becomes.
[0014]
The driving length (supply length before weaving) of each color weft 14 for each stage of each weft is longer than the weaving width (length before weaving). Then, the double weft portion of the color weft yarn 14 longer than the weaving width (the length before weaving) circumvents the front and back to cover the core warp yarn 11 and is pushed up by the color weft yarn 14 entangled with the core warp yarn 11. Without any problem, a ridge-like ridge 17 is formed on the surface of the woven fabric along the longitudinal direction of the core warp 11, which is continuous in a columnar straight line in the warp direction and has a valley groove 18 between adjacent core warps. A spelled fabric with a similar aesthetic appearance is obtained.
[0015]
FIG. 2 illustrates the first feature of the present invention, in which a back-bound warp 13 is arranged on the back side of the fabric, and a plurality of yarns H, P, H, P, and H are arranged on each core warp 11. A set of yarns H, P, H, P, and H are arranged as a set, and the binding wefts 15 are woven separately from the color wefts 14, and a part of the yarns P constituting each core warp 11 A back woven fabric 19 is formed by the back-bound warp 13 and the binding weft 15, and the sinking yarn 16 is woven into the back-woven fabric 19. Since the binding wefts 15 are only entangled over the upper part (front side) of a part of the core warp 11 of the core warp thread 11 as a set, a plurality of the binding wefts 15 are raised on the surface of the binding fabric main body 22 unlike the color wefts 14. No, the aesthetic appearance of the picture pattern that the color weft 14 draws on the surface of the staple fabric main body 22 is not impaired. In addition, since some yarns P constituting each core warp yarn 11 constitute the woven fabric 19, the woven fabric 19 does not float on the back side of the fabric, and the set yarn 16 is contained in the woven fabric 19. Because it is sealed in, there will be no troubles such as being scratched out.
[0016]
FIG. 3 illustrates the second feature of the present invention, in which a woven fabric is woven by the core warp 11, the front binding warp 12, the back binding warp 13, the color weft 14, and the binding weft 15. The core warp 11 is thicker than the front binding warp 12. The front binding warp 12 and the back binding warp 13 are located separately on the front side and the back side of the fabric, and the binding weft 15 is entangled with the front binding warp 12 and the back binding warp 13 so that the back fabric 19 is provided on the back side of the binding fabric main body 22. Forming. The core warp yarn 11 is disposed on the front side of the stitched fabric with respect to the back woven fabric 19 and floats on the back woven fabric 19 without being entangled with the binding weft 15. The color weft yarn 14 is woven into the back woven fabric 19 and is selectively raised from the back woven fabric 19, and the color weft 14 raised from the back woven fabric 19 passes over the core warp yarn 11B, and the core warp yarn 11B exceeds it. Underneath the adjacent left and right core warp yarns 11A and 11C, it continues from the end of the fabric to the end of the fabric, and the overlying weft yarn 14 covers the overlying core warp yarn 11B to form the surface of the stitched fabric. ing.
[0017]
The color weft 14 lies below (on the back side) the front binding warp 12 (P) at a location that does not exceed the core warp 11. In a woven fabric with a variety of picture patterns drawn on the surface, the color wefts 14 constitute a group of several types of color yarns 14A, 14B, 14C,... The colored yarns 14A, 14B, 14C,... Are selectively woven, and several types of the selectively woven yarns 14A, 14B, 14C,. 22 surfaces are formed. The color weft 14 that protrudes from the woven fabric 19 and passes over the core warp 11B is submerged under the left and right core warps 11A and 11C adjacent to the core warp 11B, and the core warp 11A A trough-shaped ridge 17 is formed along the length direction of the core warp thread 11B that exceeds the valley groove 18 between 11C.
[0018]
The binding weft 15 may be a thread thinner than the color weft 14, particularly a multifilament yarn made of synthetic fibers. In the binding weft 15, the color weft 14 is driven into the opening between the core warps (11A and 11B, 11B and 14C...), And all the core warps arranged in the weft direction before weaving are any of the color wefts 14. Is then driven into the openings of the front binding warp 12 (P) and the back binding warp 13. The binding weft 15 is entangled (connected) to the front binding warp 12 (P) and the back binding warp 13 at a rate of once per a plurality of wefts of the fabric. The front binding warp 12 (P) is paired with the core warp 11 (H) and arranged at a ratio of one core warp per front binding warp, but the back binding warp 13 is composed of a plurality of core warps 11 ( H) or a plurality of front binding warps 12 (P) may be arranged at a ratio of one.
[0019]
FIG. 4 is a cross-sectional view of the stitched fabric before weaving at each stage. The sagging thread 16 of the color weft 14 is woven into the woven fabric 19 as shown in FIGS. 2 and 3, but is omitted because the drawing becomes complicated. 2 and 3, when the color weft thread 14A continues over the core warp thread 11A and becomes the sinking thread 16 that lies under the adjacent core warp thread 11B, the submerged core warp thread 16A is shown. It is not necessary to dive under the back stitch warp 13 positioned below 11B so as to appear on the back side of the back woven fabric 19, but like the color weft 14C shown in FIG. 2 and FIG. If it is woven into the back fabric 19 so as to form an intermediate layer sandwiched between the front binding warp 12 (P) and the back binding warp 13 under the front binding warp 12 (P) located under (H) Good.
[0020]
4, (1) is a cross section at the first stage of weft driving, (2) is a cross section at the second stage of weft driving, (3) is a cross section at the third stage of weft driving, and (4) is at the fourth stage of weft driving. Cross section, (5) is the cross section at the fifth stage of weft driving, (6) is the cross section at the sixth stage of weft driving, (7) is the cross section at the seventh stage of weft driving, (8) is the cross section at the eighth stage of weft driving, (9) shows a cross section at the ninth stage of weft driving, and (10) shows a cross section at the tenth stage of weft driving. The binding weft 15 is entangled (bonded) to the front-bound warp 12 (P) and the back-bound warp 13 at a rate of once for every 10 wefts of the woven fabric. ) And the entanglement point (connection point) is sandwiched between the front binding warp 12 (P) and the back binding warp 13 and does not continuously protrude from the back surface of the stitched fabric.
[0021]
That is, the binding weft 15 constitutes a 10-sheet insulator which becomes a warp surface (warp insulator) on the side of the binding fabric main body with respect to the front binding warp 12 (P), and a back fabric for the back-bound warp 13. On the back surface of 19, a ten-piece insulator which becomes a meridian insulator (transparent insulator) is formed. The binding point between the front binding warp 12 (P) and the back binding warp 13 of the binding weft 15 in each step of weft driving is the same as the binding point of the front binding warp 12 (P) with the front binding warp 12 (P). It is located in the middle of the connection point and the connection point, the connection point with the back binding warp 13 is positioned in the middle of the connection point with the front binding warp 12 (P), and the front and back of the woven fabric 19 Are connected to each other between the other connection point and the connection point.
[0022]
In this way, the back woven fabric 19 has the warp weft 15 on the side of the main fabric side for the front binding warp 12 (P) and on the back side of the back woven fabric 19 for the back binding warp 13. If 10 to 16 cocoon weave structures are formed, the stepped ridges 17 and valley grooves 18 are formed on the surface of the knitted fabric in a flat manner. The back side of the stitched fabric is very similar, and there is no wrinkle between the main fabric and the back fabric 19 formed by the core warp 11 and the color weft 14, and the stitching of the color weft 14 is dense and has a waist. A woven fabric is obtained. In this regard, when the woven fabric 19 has a warp double woven fabric structure exceeding 16 sheets, the binding fabric main body 22 is pulled into the woven fabric 19 at the connection point between the front binding warp 12 (P) and the binding weft 15. Rarely, the surface of the woven fabric is easily dented, and conversely, when the woven fabric 19 has a warp double woven fabric structure with less than 10 sheets, the woven fabric 19 is heavy and hard, making it difficult to drive the weft 14 It becomes difficult to obtain a fabric very similar to the spelled weave. Accordingly, the binding weft 15 is once per 10 to 16 stages of weft driving in the warp direction, and once per 10 to 16 core warps 11 (table binding warp 12 · P) in the weft direction. It is recommended that the back woven fabric 19 is configured to be connected to the front binding warp 12 (P) and the back binding warp 13.
It should be noted that at the connection point between the front binding warp 12 (P) and the binding weft 15, the fact that the binding fabric main body 22 is pulled into the back woven fabric 19 and the surface of the binding fabric becomes easy to make a depression. The three-dimensional feeling can be imparted to the stitched fabric by providing unevenness partially or evenly, and in this case, the back woven fabric 19 has a warp double woven fabric structure of more than 16 sheets.
[0023]
Unlike a binding weave woven by hand using a hand-woven loom, the bound fabric of the present invention is woven by an automatic loom (power loom). The automatic loom includes a color weft selection device that automatically selects the color wefts 14A, 14B, 14C,... According to the color of each part of the pattern for each weft of the fabric, and the selected color weft. It is possible to mount an opening device that automatically opens by selecting a core warp every time, and a computer that controls these devices. The computer can know the selection status of the color weft, compute the selection status of the color weft, change the woven structure of the back fabric 19 according to the selection status of the color weft, and drive any weft In one step, it is possible to determine which front-bound warp 12 (P) or back-bound warp 13 to which the binding weft 15 should be bound. In particular, when the sagging yarn 16 forms a long continuous intermediate layer sandwiched between the front binding warp 12 (P) and the back binding warp 13 on the woven fabric 19, the long continuous sagging yarn 16 is appropriately used. Bind to the back-bound warp 13. In this case, the connection point between the set yarn 16 and the back-bound warp 13 is not overlapped with the connection point between the binding weft 15 and the back-bound warp 13, and does not overlap with the connection point between the binding weft 15 and the back-bound warp 13. In the middle of the tie point, preferably, the sunk yarn 16 is connected to the back-bound warp 13 near the connection point between the bound weft 15 and the back-bound warp 13.
[0024]
【The invention's effect】
According to the present invention (Claim 1), the binding weft 15 is drawn to the back side of the fabric by the back binding warp 13, while the core warp 11 (H) is not drawn to the back side of the fabric by the binding weft 15. In addition, the binding weft 15 does not appear on the surface of the fabric. Since the set yarn 16 of the color weft 14 is woven into the back woven fabric 19 formed by the binding weft 15, the front binding warp 11 (P) and the back binding warp 12 on the back side of the fabric and does not float on the back side, the set yarn 16 is hooked, the pattern on the surface is not deformed, and the ridges 17 and valley grooves 18 are not broken, and the weft 14 is continuous from the ear edge to the ear edge of the fabric. Since it can be woven with a loom), it is possible to efficiently obtain a long-lasting fabric that is very similar to a binding weave.
[0025]
According to the present invention (Claim 2), the front binding warp 12 is thinner than the core warp 11, and is not drawn to the back side of the fabric by the binding weft 15, and the color weft 14 does not appear on the surface of the fabric. Since the core warp 11 that exceeds the thickness is thicker than the front binding warp 12 that constitutes the side of the woven fabric main body 19 of the lining fabric 19, and the sagging thread 16 of the color weft is restrained by the front binding warp 12, the saddle-like ridges 17 and valleys A clear and woven fabric with undulating grooves 18 is obtained.
[Brief description of the drawings]
FIG. 1 is an enlarged perspective view of a main part of a conventional binding fabric.
FIG. 2 is an enlarged perspective view of a main part of a stitched fabric according to the present invention.
FIG. 3 is an enlarged perspective view of a main part of the bound fabric according to the present invention.
FIG. 4 is a cross-sectional view before weaving for each step of weft-stitching of a stitched fabric according to the present invention.
[Explanation of symbols]
DESCRIPTION OF SYMBOLS 11 Core warp 12 Front binding warp 13 Back binding warp 14 Color weft 15 Binding weft 16 Sinking thread 17 Saddle-like ridge 18 Valley groove 19 Lining fabric 20 Binding warp 21 Core warp 22 Core warp main body

Claims

A core warp yarn (11) is composed of a set of a plurality of aligned yarns (P, H), and the core warp yarn (11) and the color weft yarn (14) of the set of the plurality of yarns are combined into a staple fabric body ( 22), and the portion of the color weft yarn (14) that does not appear on the front side of the staple fabric body (22) is a sunk yarn (16) that is not continuously connected to the plurality of core warps (11). The back-bound warp (13) is arranged on the back side of the staple fabric body (22) from which the sinking yarn (16) of the color weft (14) is raised, and the binding weft (15) is driven separately from the color weft (14). The woven fabric main body (22) is a woven fabric main body (22) comprising a plurality of one set of core warp yarns (11), a part of the yarn (PH), the back stitch warp yarn (13), and the binding weft yarn (15). Is formed on the back side of the fabric, and the weft sagging yarn (16) is woven into the back fabric (19), and the color weft selectively from the back fabric (19). (14) is raised and over the core warp (11), and under the left and right core warps (11) adjacent to the core warp (11) that goes over, it continues from the ear end to the end of the fabric, The bound fabric is characterized in that the exceeding color weft (14) covers the exceeding core warp (11) to form the surface of the bound fabric main body (22).

The core warp yarn (11) and the color weft yarn (14) form the binding fabric body (22), and the portion of the color weft yarn (14) that does not appear on the front side of the binding fabric body (22) is a plurality of core warp yarns (11 ) Is a sunk yarn (16) that is not continuously connected to the back side of the binding fabric body (22) from which the sag yarn (16) of the color weft (14) is lifted. The binding warp yarn (13) is arranged on the front and back sides, and the binding weft yarn (15) is driven separately from the color weft yarn (14). A woven fabric (19) is formed on the back side of the main body (22), and a sunk yarn (16) of color weft is woven into the woven fabric (19), and the color weft (14) is selectively woven ( 19) The left and right sides of the core warp (11B) that protrudes from and over the core warp (11B) Under the core warp yarn (11A / 11C), it continues from the ear end to the ear end of the fabric, and the overlying color weft yarn (14) covers the overlying core warp yarn (11B), and the main body (22 ), And the thickness of the core warp (11) is thicker than the front binding warp (12).