JP4257136B2 - Pleated skirt, manufacturing method thereof, and pattern paper - Google Patents

Description

【００１７】
なお、本願発明は、この実施の形態や表の寸法関係に限定するものではなく、各請求項の範囲において変更して実施することができる。例えば、表では、前後の中央及び左右の各プリーツ群の寸法は、各群内で同じとしているが、同一群内の各プリーツの寸法は、同一とするものに限定するものではく、互いに異なるものであってもよい。また、前後の中央と左右の本数は、この例では、４本ずつの計１６本としているが、前の中央は４本、後の中央は６本、前の左右は２本ずつ、後の左右は３本ずつとする等、部位によって、本数を異なるようにしてもよい。
【００１８】
【発明の効果】
以上、本願発明は、女性の体型の特徴に着目し、プリーツの１本１本について検討し、且つ、これらプリーツの１本１本がプリーツスカート全体としてどのように統合されるべきであるかを鋭意研究し、量産性を低下させることがない直線プリーツでありながら、最も自然で安定したプリーツを得ることができたプリーツスカート、及び、その製造方法、並びに、同プリーツスカートの製造に適するプリーツスカート用型紙を提供し得たものである。
【図面の簡単な説明】
【図１】本願発明の実施の形態に係るプリーツスカートの斜視図である。
【図２】同プリーツスカートのウエストライン付近の縫製後の布地を、立体的に示した説明図である。
【図３】同プリーツスカートのウエストライン付近の縫製前の布地を、立体的に示した説明図である。
【図４】同プリーツスカートの前身頃の左半分の展開図である。
【図５】同プリーツスカートの後身頃の左半分の展開図である。
【符号の説明】
Ｆ 前身頃用生地（前身頃）
Ｂ 後身頃用生地（後身頃）
１ プリーツ
１ａ 前身頃の中央のプリーツ（ストレートプリーツ）
１ｂ 前身頃の左右両側のプリーツ（テーパードプリーツ）
１ｃ 後身頃の中央のプリーツ（ストレートプリーツ）
１ｄ 後身頃の左右両側のプリーツ（テーパードプリーツ）
２ 表襞
３ 奥襞
３１ 第１奥襞
３２ 第２奥襞
４ 表折り目線
５ 裏折り目線
６ 境界線
７ 縫い代
８ ウエストベルト部材[0001]
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a pleated skirt.
[0002]
[Prior art]
Traditionally, pleated skirts have been widely adopted and mass-produced as uniforms for girls' school uniforms. The pleated skirt is roughly divided into two types, one in which the crease line provided in the cloth is formed in a curve in advance and the one in which the crease line is formed in a straight line in order to correspond to the shape change from the hip part to the waist part. However, in the pleated skirt for uniforms, the fold line of the pleat is a straight line from the viewpoint of mass productivity.
Specifically, in accordance with a pattern having a straight crease line, a straight crease line is formed by a so-called permanent pleating process on the cloth of the front body and the back body, and when these bodies are sewn to the waist belt member, “Ige-in”, that is, sewing while inserting the fabric so that the pleat width of the waist portion is smaller than the hip portion is performed.
However, in a pleated skirt employing such a production method, it is said that problems such as pleats opening or standing when worn are likely to occur. This is due to the difference in size between the waist and pip of the human body, especially because it has a shape that protrudes greatly to the left and right near the left and right hip bones of the human body. It is thought that it will end up.
In order to solve this problem, various proposals have been made. For example, Patent Document 1 proposes a pleated skirt in which a width of a pleat corresponding to a side portion is wider than a width of a pleat corresponding to a front and rear surface with respect to a wearer. In this pleated skirt, the width of the pleat corresponding to the side is set wide to prevent the pleat from opening near the hip bone.
The pleat skirt according to Patent Document 1 is surely relaxed, but the invention according to Patent Document 1 is only focused on setting the pleat width.
[Patent Document 1]
Japanese Patent No. 2579454
[Problems to be solved by the invention]
The present invention is intended to provide a pleated skirt that can prevent the opening of the pleat near the hip bone more reliably by adjusting the shape of the pleat itself, a method for manufacturing the pleated skirt, and a paper pattern for the manufacturing.
In particular, the present invention focuses on the female body shape, the difference between the position of the left and right hip bones and the position of the top of the hips, and the inclination of the pleat line, and more reliably prevents the opening of the pleats. . More specifically, in the human body, in particular, the female body shape, the left and right hip bones and hips overhang compared to the waist, and the overhang is small at the lower abdominal position. Therefore, even when making a difference (drop difference) between the circumference of the waistline and the circumference of the hipline, it is important to consider this difference in body shape in terms of forming natural pleats. is there. Moreover, although the left and right hip bones and hips protrude greatly, the vertical positions of the protrusions are different. That is, the overhanging of the left and right hip bones is higher than the top of the hip (the most overhanging position). Focusing on the characteristics of these body shapes, in order to obtain the most natural and stable pleats, consider each pleat and how each pleat is integrated as a whole pleat skirt. The present invention has been completed by earnestly studying whether or not it should be.
[0004]
[Means for Solving the Problems]
1st invention of this application is the pleat 1a formed in the center of the cloth | dough for front and back in the pleat skirt in which the pleat 1 was provided by forming the linear front crease line 4 in the cloths F and B for the body. 1c is a straight pleat in which the pleat width xh at the hip line is set to be substantially equal to the pleat width xs at the hem line and larger than the pleat width xw at the waist line, and the pleats are formed on the left and right of the front and rear body fabrics. 1b and 1d are tapered pleats in which the pleat width xh at the hip line is set smaller than the pleat width xs at the hem line and larger than the pleat width xw at the waist line, and the pleat width xw at the waist line w and the pleat at the hip line The difference from the width xh is the center of the front fabric. Than over tool 1a, providing a pleated skirt, wherein the pleats 1b, the direction of 1d larger of the left and right pleats 1c and front and back dough in the middle of the back body dough.
In the second invention of the present application, the front body fabric F and the back body fabric B are sewn on both the left and right sides and sewn to the waist belt member 8 at the upper ends thereof, and the front and rear body fabrics F and B are pleated. In the pleated skirt manufacturing method in which 1 is formed, a pleat width xw in the waist line w and a pleat width xs in the hem line s are formed at the center of the front body fabric F and the back body fabric B before sewing. Tapered which forms substantially equal straight pleats 1a and 1c and has a pleat width at the hem line s larger than a pleat width at the waist line w on both the left and right sides of the front body fabric F and the back body fabric B before sewing. When the pleats 1b and 1d are formed and the front body fabric F and the back body fabric B are sewn to the waist belt member 8, the center of the front body fabric F is formed. Sew the pleats 1a in the center 1c of the back body fabric B and the pleats 1b and 1d on the left and right sides of the front and back body fabrics F and B, and sew it in the center of the front and back body fabrics. The formed pleats 1a and 1c are straight pleats in which the pleat width xh at the hip line is set to be substantially equal to the pleat width xs at the hem line and larger than the pleat width xw at the waist line. The formed pleats 1b and 1d are tapered pleats in which the pleat width xh at the hip line is smaller than the pleat width xs at the hem line and larger than the pleat width xw at the waist line. Provide a method.
A third invention of the present application relates to a pleated skirt pattern for forming a straight pleat on at least one of a front body fabric and a back body fabric, the pleat formed in the center of the pattern paper The crease line is a straight pleat having substantially the same upper and lower pleat widths, and the pleat crease line formed on both left and right sides of the pattern paper is a tapered pleat having a larger pleat width below the upper pleat width. This is a pleated skirt pattern, thereby providing a pattern that can be used to manufacture a pleated skirt that can solve the above-mentioned problems.
[0005]
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION
Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention will be described with reference to the drawings.
FIG. 1 is a perspective view of a pleated skirt according to an embodiment of the present invention, showing a left half of a front body and a right half of a back body. FIG. 2 is an explanatory diagram three-dimensionally showing the fabric after sewing near the waistline of the pleated skirt. FIG. 3 is a three-dimensional explanatory view of the fabric before sewing in the vicinity of the waistline of the pleated skirt. FIG. 4 is a developed view of the left half of the front body of the pleated skirt, and FIG. 5 is a developed view of the left half of the back body of the pleated skirt. 4 and 5, only the left half is illustrated for the convenience of the size of the page, but the right half of each body is formed symmetrically with the left half around the one-dot chain line in the figure.
[0006]
The pleated skirt according to this embodiment has a tubular shape by sewing both ends of a front body fabric (hereinafter simply referred to as a front body F) and a back body fabric (hereinafter simply referred to as a back body B). The waist belt member 8 is sewn on the front and rear bodies, and a total of 16 pleats 1 are formed on the front and rear bodies. The number of pleats can be changed as appropriate, such as 12 or 20.
[0007]
The pleated skirt has a rough dimension of 103 cm at the hem, a hip dimension of 100 cm, and a waist dimension of 64 cm. In addition, although these dimensions are the sum totals of the length of the front cover 2 of each pleat 1 (1a, 1b, 1c, 1d), it can implement variously according to a wearer's size. Here, the front surface 2 is a fabric portion that appears on the surface of the skirt in each pleat 1 without being hidden by the fabric of other portions. On the other hand, the back 3 is a portion of each pleat 1 that is hidden behind other portions of the fabric and does not appear on the surface. In this specification, as shown in FIG. 3 and FIG. 4, a portion of the back 3 adjacent to the front fold line 2 with the front crease line 4 on the surface of the pleat 1 as a boundary is a first back 31. A portion adjacent to the front collar portion 2 without a front crease line is referred to as a second back 32. The first back 31 and the second back are folded and overlapped with the back crease line 5 as a boundary, and the first back 31 is overlapped on the front side of the second back 32.
[0008]
In this pleated skirt, as shown in FIG. 1, 16 pleats 1 are formed on both the front body F and the back body B substantially uniformly over the entire circumference of the skirt. A total of eight pleats 1a (four) formed in the center of the back body F and pleats 1c (four) formed in the center of the back body B are straight pleats, and are formed on the left and right sides of the front body F. A total of eight pleats 1b (four) and pleats 1d (four) formed on the left and right sides of the back body B are tapered pleats. In this document, these pleats are collectively referred to as pleats 1.
[0009]
In the completed skirt, the front crease line 4 on the surface of the pleat 1 is a straight line, but in the case of the straight pleats 1a and 1c, the pleat width xh and the hem line s in the hip line h. Is substantially equal to the pleat width xs. In the tapered pleats 1b and 1d formed on the left and right sides, the pleat width xs at the hem is larger than the pleat width xh at the hip line h. The pleat width xw of the waist line w is set to be smaller than the pleat width xh of the hip line h and the pleat width xs of the hem line regardless of the pleats 1. In this embodiment, the waist of all pleats is set. The pleat widths xw of the lines w are set equal to each other.
The hip line is a virtual line located near the top of the human hip when the skirt is worn, and is located approximately 20 cm below the waist (15-25 cm). Indicated by a chain line.
[0010]
At the time of manufacturing the skirt, as shown in FIGS. 4 and 5, straight pleats 1a and 1c are formed in the center of the front body F and the back body B before sewing, and the front body F and the rear body are formed. Tapered pleats 1b and 1d are formed on the left and right sides of the body B, respectively. 4 and 5, reference numeral 6 denotes a boundary line 6 between the front heel 2 and the second back ridge 32. Although this boundary line 6 does not appear on the fabric, the pleat 1 is folded. In this case, the front crease line 4 is positioned on the boundary line 6.
The straight pleats 1a and 1c and the tapered pleats 1b and 1d are formed by a so-called permanent press, in which the crease lines (the front crease line 4 and the back crease line 5) are substantially straight straight lines. Is done. Therefore, in the straight pleats 1a and 1d, the shape of the front collar 2 is a rectangle in which the pleat width xw in the waist line w and the pleat width xs in the hem line s are substantially equal, and in the tapered pleat 1b, The shape of Table 2 is a trapezoid in which the pleat width xs in the hem line s is larger than the pleat width xw in the waist line w. In this case, when both the front body F and the back body B are formed of a rectangular fabric, the first back collar 31 has an inverted trapezoid in which the width xs in the hem line s is smaller than the width xw in the waist line w. .
[0011]
Next, both ends of the front body F and the back body B are sewn at the seam allowances 7 provided on the left and right ends of each body to form a cylinder, and then sewn to the waist belt member 8. At the time of this sewing, in order to give a dimensional difference (that is, a drop difference) between the waist size and the hip size, squeezing (pleating pleats) is performed (from the state of FIG. 3 to the state of FIG. 2). In other words, the front crease line 4 of the waist line w is made to be smaller than the hip line h and the hem line s so that the size of the waist line w is smaller than that formed by the pleats 1 before sewing. 32. Thereby, in the completed skirt, the pleat width of the waist line w becomes smaller than the pleat width xh of the hip line h and the pleat width xs of the hem line h.
Paying attention to the crease line, the front crease line 4 becomes the front crease line 4 as it is, but the back crease line 5 changes due to warping. What changes is the portion from the hip line h to the waist line w. That is, from the hem line s to the hip line h, the back crease line 5 becomes the back crease line 5 as it is, but there is a new crease that is bent obliquely about the part from the hip line h to the waist line w. This is formed and becomes the back crease line 5 of the skirt when completed. That is, in the back crease line 5 on the back side of each pleat 1, the hem line s to the hip line h are straight, but once bent near the hip line, it is substantially straight to the waist line w. Is growing.
In addition, about the part from the hip line h to the waist line w, the back crease line before sewing (not bent) is shown by the code | symbol 51 in FIG.4 and FIG.5. Similarly, with respect to the boundary line 6, the boundary line before intrusion is indicated by reference numeral 61, and the boundary line after intrusion is indicated by reference numeral 6.
[0012]
Here, as the first important point, the human body (especially female) has a large difference between the waistline dimension and the hipline dimension in the hips and waist, but in the abdomen, The point that the dimensional difference of both is comparatively small is mentioned. Focusing on this point, in the present invention, the amount of insertion of the pleats 1 provided on both the left and right sides of the front body F and the entire back body B (center and both sides) corresponding to the waist and hips of the human body. The amount of pleats 1 provided in the center of the front body F is larger than the amount of insertion. That is, with respect to the difference between the pleat width xw at the waist line w and the pleat width xh at the hip line h, the center 1c of the back body B and the front and back bodies F, B on the left and right 1b than the pleat 1a at the center of the front body F, The pleats in 1d are made larger. Thus, by setting the drop difference individually for each pleat, it is possible to form a skirt having a shape that easily fits the female body shape.
Note that the pleat width xw of the waistline w may be set equal to each pleat 1 as described above, but may be set differently. However, since the pleat width of the waist line w is most conspicuous, it is desirable to set the pleat width equally as in this embodiment, and it is possible to prevent the uniform feeling of each pleat from being impaired as much as possible. In this case, for the pleat 1a at the center of the front body F, the pleat width xh of the hip line h and the pleat width xs of the hem line are set to the other parts (the left and right sides of the front body F and the entire back body B). The widths of the pleats 1b, 1c, and 1d may be smaller than the same width xh and xs). However, even if they are not set equal, the pleat widths xh and xs of the center pleat 1a of the front body F are prevented from being made smaller than the same widths xh and xs of the other pleats 1b, 1c, and 1d. Absent.
On the other hand, with respect to the pleat 1a at the center of the front body F, the pleat width xh of the hip line h and the pleat width xs of the hem line are set to the pleats 1b and 1c of other parts (the left and right sides of the front body F and the entire rear body B). When the pleat width xw of the waist line w is substantially equal to 1d, the pleat 1a at the center of the front body F is smaller than the other pleats 1b, 1c, 1d.
Thus, in this embodiment, among the 16 pleats, the four pleats 1a in the center of the front body F are set so that the drop difference is smaller than the other pleats 1b, 1c, 1d. Thus, it is possible to form a skirt that most closely corresponds to the body shape of the human body, in particular, the body shape in which the unevenness between the waist line and the hip line is small in the front abdomen.
[0013]
Next, as a second important point, although both the left and right hip bones and the hip are overhanging, the vertical positions of the overhang are different. That is, the overhanging of the left and right hip bones is higher than the top of the hip (the most overhanging position). Thus, on the left and right sides of the human body, it can be said that the dimensional change from the waist is the steepest because of the high hip position. Therefore, in the present invention, in order to obtain the most natural and stable pleats, among the entire left and right sides of the front body F and the back body B, the left and right sides of the front and rear bodies F and B are tapered pleats 1b and 1d. It was made possible to cope with a sudden dimensional change caused by the positions of the left and right hip bones by synergistic action with a large drop difference. On the other hand, the center of the back body B corresponding to the hip is not a steep change as compared with the left and right, and therefore the straight pleat 1c is used as the above-described drop difference. In the above description, regarding the drop difference, the pleats 1b and 1d on both the left and right sides of the front and rear body F, B and the pleat 1c in the center of the back body B are substantially the same drop difference. It may be changed on the condition that a drop difference larger than the center pleat 1a is provided. For example, the drop difference of the pleat 1c at the center of the back body B is set larger than the drop difference of the pleats 1b and 1d at the left and right sides of the front and back body F, B, or conversely, the pleat 1c at the center of the back body B The drop difference may be made smaller. Regarding the adjustment of these drop differences, it is desirable to have a larger drop difference in the former for high school students entering the mature stage and for junior high school students in the body development stage. It can be implemented by appropriately selecting.
[0014]
The straight pleats 1a and 1c and the tapered pleats 1b and 1d can be formed by a pattern provided with the same crease line as that of the front body F and the back body B before sewing. That is, a crease line having the same shape as each pleat 1 is formed on a heat-resistant material (for example, a heat-resistant plastic sheet), and two sheets are prepared. The sheet is folded between the two and heated in this state, so that a so-called permanent pressing is performed to form straight pleats 1a and 1c and tapered pleats 1b and 1d.
[0015]
As described above, Table 1 shows the relationship between the size of each part of each body (including paper pattern) according to this embodiment by the numbers 1 to 7. The numbers 1 to 7 mean that 1 is the minimum length and increases in order, and 7 is the maximum length.
[0016]
[Table 1]

[0017]
Note that the present invention is not limited to the dimensional relations of the embodiments and tables, and can be implemented with modifications within the scope of the claims. For example, in the table, the dimensions of the front and rear pleat groups and the left and right pleat groups are the same in each group, but the dimensions of the pleats in the same group are not limited to the same, and are different from each other. It may be a thing. In this example, the number of centers in the front and rear and the number of left and right is 16 in total, 4 in the front, 4 in the front center, 6 in the back center, 2 in the front left and right, The number may be different depending on the part, such as three on the left and right.
[0018]
【The invention's effect】
As described above, the present invention focuses on the characteristics of the female body shape, examines each of the pleats, and how each of the pleats should be integrated as a whole pleated skirt. A pleated skirt that has been earnestly researched and is capable of obtaining the most natural and stable pleat while being a straight pleat that does not reduce mass productivity, and a method for manufacturing the pleated skirt, and a pleated skirt suitable for manufacturing the pleated skirt. The paper pattern could be provided.
[Brief description of the drawings]
FIG. 1 is a perspective view of a pleated skirt according to an embodiment of the present invention.
FIG. 2 is an explanatory view showing a three-dimensional view of the fabric after sewing in the vicinity of the waist line of the pleated skirt.
FIG. 3 is an explanatory view showing a three-dimensional view of the fabric before sewing in the vicinity of the waistline of the pleated skirt.
FIG. 4 is a development view of the left half of the front body of the pleated skirt.
FIG. 5 is a development view of the left half of the back body of the pleated skirt.
[Explanation of symbols]
F Fabric for front body (front body)
B Fabric for back body (back body)
1 Pleated 1a Front pleat in the front (straight pleated)
1b Pleated on the left and right sides of the front body (tapered pleats)
1c Pleated in the center of the back body (straight pleats)
1d Pleated on the left and right sides of the back body (tapered pleats)
2 Front side 3 Back side 31 First back side 32 Second back side 4 Front crease line 5 Back crease line 6 Boundary line 7 Seam allowance 8 Waist belt member

Claims (3)

In the pleated skirt provided with the pleat (1) by forming a straight front crease line (4) on the body fabric (F, B),
The pleats (1a, 1c) formed in the center of the front and rear body fabrics are set so that the pleat width (xh) at the hip line is substantially equal to the pleat width (xs) at the hem line and larger than the pleat width xw at the waist line. Straight pleated
The pleats (1b, 1d) formed on the left and right of the front and rear body fabrics are set such that the pleat width (xh) at the hip line is smaller than the pleat width (xs) at the hem line and larger than the pleat width xw at the waist line. It was a tapered pleats,
The difference between the pleat width (xw) at the waist line (w) and the pleat width (xh) at the hip line is greater than the pleat (1a) at the center of the front body fabric, and the pleat (1c) at the center of the back body fabric. The pleat skirt is characterized in that the pleats (1b, 1d) on the left and right of the front and rear body fabrics are larger. The front body fabric (F) and the back body fabric (B) are sewn on both the left and right sides and sewn to the waist belt member (8) at the upper end, and pleated on the front and back body fabrics (F, B). In the manufacturing method of the pleated skirt formed with (1),
At the center of the front body fabric (F) and the back body fabric (B) before sewing, the pleat width (xw) at the waist line (w) and the pleat width (xs) at the hem line (s) Forming substantially equal straight pleats (1a, 1c);
Tapered pleats (1b, pleat width on the hem line (s) larger than the pleat width on the waist line (w) on the left and right sides of the front body fabric (F) and the back body fabric (B) before sewing. 1d),
When sewing the front body fabric (F) and the back body fabric (B) to the waist belt member (8), the amount of pleats (1a) inserted in the center of the front body fabric (F) The pleats (1b, 1d) at the center (1c) of the fabric (B) and the left and right of the front and back garments (F, B)
The pleats (1a, 1c) formed in the center of the front and rear body fabrics are set so that the pleat width (xh) at the hip line is substantially equal to the pleat width (xs) at the hem line and larger than the pleat width xw at the waist line. Straight pleated,
The pleats (1b, 1d) formed on the left and right of the front and rear body fabrics are set such that the pleat width (xh) at the hip line is smaller than the pleat width (xs) at the hem line and larger than the pleat width xw at the waist line. A method of manufacturing a pleated skirt, characterized by using a tapered pleat . In a pleated skirt pattern for forming a straight pleat on at least one of the front body fabric and the back body fabric,
The pleat crease line formed at the center of the pattern paper is a straight pleat with substantially equal upper and lower pleat widths, and the pleat crease line formed on the left and right sides of the pattern paper has a larger pleat width below the upper pleat width. A pleated skirt pattern characterized by being tapered pleats.

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