JP3096373U - Pleated skirt - Google Patents

Abstract

(57) [Problem] To provide a pleated skirt that can obtain the most natural and stable pleats while being straight pleats that do not reduce mass productivity, focusing on the characteristics of the female body shape, and manufacturing thereof A method and a pattern for a pleated skirt suitable for manufacturing the pleated skirt are provided. SOLUTION: Pleats 1a, 1c formed at the center of front and rear body fabrics F, B are straight pleats, and pleats 1b, 1d formed on the left and right of the front and rear body fabrics.
Are tapered pleats. Pleated width xw at waistline w and pleat width x at hipline
The difference from h is the pleat 1a at the center of the dough for the front body.
The pleats 1c at the center of the back body fabric and the pleats 1b and 1d at the left and right sides of the front and rear body fabrics are set to be larger than those. Further, the pleat width xw at the waist line w is made equal over the entire circumference of the skirt.

Description

Description: BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION [0001] The present invention relates to a pleated skirt. 2. Description of the Related Art Conventionally, pleated skirts have been widely adopted and mass-produced as uniforms for girls' school uniforms. Pleated skirts are broadly classified into two types, one in which the fold line provided on the fabric is formed in a curved line in advance and the other in which the fold line is formed in a straight line in order to respond to the change in shape from the hip to the waist. However, in the uniform pleated skirt, the fold line of the pleat is a straight line from the viewpoint of mass productivity. Specifically, in accordance with a pattern having a straight fold line, a straight fold line is formed on the fabric of the front body and the back body by so-called permanent pleating, and when these bodies are sewn to the waist belt member, "Irising" is performed, that is, sewing is performed while inserting cloth so that the pleat width of the waist portion is smaller than that of the hip portion. However, in a pleated skirt employing such a production method, it is said that a problem such as the pleats opening or standing when worn is liable to occur. This is due to the difference in size between the waist and the pip of the human body.In particular, the pleats near the hips or hips are opened because the waist and the hips on the left and right sides of the human body are greatly extended to the left and right. It is believed to be a mess. Various proposals have been made to solve this problem. For example, Patent Literature 1 proposes a pleated skirt in which the width of the pleats on the side portions is wider than the width of the pleats on the front and rear surfaces of the wearer. In this pleated skirt, the pleats in the vicinity of the hip bone are prevented from opening by setting the width of the pleats corresponding to the side portions wide. Although the opening of the pleat is relaxed in the pleated skirt according to Patent Document 1, the invention according to Patent Document 1 merely focuses on the setting of the pleat width. [Patent Document 1] Japanese Patent No. 2579454 [0003] The present invention proposes a pleated skirt that can more reliably prevent the pleats from opening near the hip bone by adjusting the shape of the pleats themselves. It will not be provided. In particular, the present invention focuses on the female body shape, the difference between the position of the left and right hip bones and the position of the top of the hip, and the inclination of the line of the pleats, to prevent the pleats from opening more reliably. . More specifically, in the human body, particularly in the female figure, the left and right hip bones and hips protrude greatly compared to the waist, and the protrusion is small at the lower abdomen. Therefore, even when a difference (drop difference) is made between the circumference of the waistline and the circumference of the hip line, it is important to take this difference in body shape into consideration in forming natural pleats. is there. In addition, the left and right hip bones and hips are overhanging, but the up and down positions of the overhangs are different. That is, the overhang of the left and right hip bones is higher than the top of the hip (the most protruding position). In order to obtain the most natural and stable pleats, focusing on the characteristics of these physiques, each pleat is examined and how each of these pleats is integrated as a whole pleated skirt The inventor has completed the present invention by earnestly studying what should be done. Means for Solving the Problems A first invention of the present application is to provide a pleated skirt provided with pleats 1 by forming linear front fold lines 4 on body fabrics F and B. The pleats 1a and 1c formed at the center of the front and rear body fabric are straight pleats, the pleats 1b and 1d formed at the left and right of the front and rear body fabric are tapered pleats, and the pleat width xw at the waistline w And the pleat width xh at the hip line, the pleats 1c at the center of the back body fabric and the pleats 1b and 1d at the left and right sides of the front and back body fabrics are larger than the pleats 1a at the center of the front body fabric. Pleated width xw at the waistline w is substantially equal over the entire circumference of the skirt. By providing over bets, to solve the above problems. Hereinafter, embodiments of the present invention will be described with reference to the drawings. FIG. 1 is a perspective view of a pleated skirt according to an embodiment of the present invention, showing a left half of a front body and a right half of a back body. FIG. 2 is an explanatory diagram three-dimensionally showing the sewn fabric near the waistline of the pleated skirt. FIG. 3 is an explanatory diagram three-dimensionally showing the cloth before sewing around the waistline of the pleated skirt. FIG. 4 is a development view of a left half of a front body of the pleated skirt, and FIG. 5 is a development view of a left half of a back body of the pleated skirt. In FIGS. 4 and 5, only the left half is shown due to the size of the paper surface, but the right half is formed symmetrically with the left half about the dashed line in the drawings for each body. A pleated skirt according to this embodiment is formed by sewing both ends of a front body fabric (hereinafter simply referred to as front body F) and a back body fabric (hereinafter simply referred to as back body B) into a tubular shape. A waist belt member 8 is sewn to the upper end thereof, and a total of 16 pleats 1 are formed on each of the front and rear bodies, eight by eight. Note that the number of pleats can be changed as appropriate, such as 12 or 20. [0007] The pleated skirt has dimensions of a completed skirt of 103 cm, a hip size of 100 cm, and a waist size of 64 cm in a completed stage. These dimensions are the sum of the lengths of the surface folds 2 of each pleat 1 (1a, 1b, 1c, 1d), but can be implemented with various changes depending on the size of the wearer. Here, the surface fold 2 refers to a cloth portion that appears on the skirt surface without being hidden by the cloth of other portions in each pleat 1. On the other hand, the back fold 3 refers to a portion of each pleat 1 that is hidden by the fabric of other portions and does not appear on the surface. In this specification, as shown in FIGS. 3 and 4, a portion of the back fold 3 adjacent to the front fold portion 2 with the front fold line 4 on the surface of the pleat 1 as a first back fold 31. And a portion adjacent to the front fold portion 2 without separating the front fold line is referred to as a second back fold 32. The first fold 31 and the second fold are folded and overlapped at the back fold line 5, and the first fold 31 is overlapped on the front side of the second fold 32. In this pleated skirt, as shown in FIG. 1, 16 pleats 1 are formed substantially uniformly over the entire circumference of the skirt on both the front body F and the back body B. However, the pleats 1a (four) formed at the center of the front body F and the pleats 1c (four) formed at the center of the back body B are made into a total of eight straight pleats, and the left and right sides of the front body F Pleated 1b (four) and pleats 1d (four) formed on both left and right sides of the back body B are made into tapered pleats. In this document, these pleats are generally referred to as pleats 1. In the completed skirt, the front fold line 4 on the surface of the pleat 1 is a straight line, but the straight pleats 1a and 1c have a pleat width xh at the hip line h. The pleat width xs in the skirt line s is substantially equal. In the tapered pleats 1b and 1d formed on the left and right sides, the pleat width xs at the bottom is larger than the pleat width xh at the hip line h. The pleat width xw of the waist line w is set smaller than the pleat width xh of the hip line h and the pleat width xs of the hem line in any pleat 1, and the pleat width of the waist line w of all pleats. xw is set equal to each other. The hip line is a virtual line located near the top of the hip of the human body when the skirt is worn, and is located at about 20 cm (15 to 25 cm) below the waist. This is indicated by a chain line. At the time of manufacturing this skirt, as shown in FIGS. 4 and 5, straight pleats 1 a and 1 c are formed at the center of each of a front body F and a back body B before sewing. Tapered pleats 1b and 1d are formed on the left and right sides of F and the back body B, respectively. 4 and 5, reference numeral 6 denotes a boundary line 6 between the front fold 2 and the second back fold 32. Although the boundary line 6 does not appear on the fabric, the pleat 1 is folded. In this case, the front fold line 4 is located on the boundary line 6. The straight pleats 1a and 1c and the tapered pleats 1b and 1d are substantially straight straight lines whose fold lines (front fold line 4 and back fold line 5) are not bent, and are formed by a so-called permanent press. Is done. Therefore, in the straight pleats 1a and 1d, the shape of the fold 2 is a rectangle in which the pleat width xw at the waist line w and the pleat width xs at the skirt line s are substantially equal, and the shape of the tapered pleat 1b is The shape of the surface fold 2 is a trapezoid in which the pleat width xs at the skirt line s is larger than the pleat width xw at the waist line w. At that time, when both the front body F and the back body B are formed of rectangular cloth, the first back fold 31 has an inverted trapezoidal shape in which the width xs of the hem line s is smaller than the width xw of the waist line w. . Next, both ends of the front body F and the back body B are sewn with seam allowances 7 provided on both right and left ends of each body, formed into a tubular shape, and sewn to the waist belt member 8. At the time of this sewing, squatting (pleating of pleats) is performed in order to make a dimensional difference (that is, a drop difference) between the waist size and the hip size (from the state of FIG. 3 to the state of FIG. 2). That is, the front fold line 4 of the waistline w is set to the second back fold so that the dimension of the waistline w is smaller than the hip line h and the hem line s, compared to the state formed by the pleats 1 before sewing. 32. Thereby, in the completed skirt, the pleat width of the waistline w is smaller than the pleat width xh of the hip line h and the pleat width xs of the hem line. Paying attention to the fold line, the front fold line 4 becomes the front fold line 4 as it is, but the back fold line 5 changes due to shirring. What changes is the part from the hip line h to the waist line w. That is, from the hem line s to the hip line h, the back fold line 5 becomes the back fold line 5 as it is, but the portion from the hip line h to the waist line w has a new fold that is diagonally bent. This is the back fold line 5 of the completed skirt. That is, in the back fold line 5 on the back side of each pleat 1, although a straight line is formed from the hem line s to the hip line h, it is bent once near the hip line and substantially straightened to the waist line w. Is growing. 4 and 5 show a back fold line (not bent) before sewing with respect to a portion from the hip line h to the waist line w. Similarly, as for the boundary 6, the boundary before the storm is denoted by reference numeral 61, and the boundary after the storm is denoted by reference numeral 6. Here, as a first important point, the body shape of a person (especially a woman) has a large difference between the dimensions of the waistline and the hipline in the hips and the waist, but has a large difference in the abdomen. For example, the dimensional difference between the two is relatively small. Focusing on this point, in the present invention, the amount of pleats 1 provided on the right and left sides of the front body F and the entire back body B (center and right and left sides) corresponding to the waist and hips of the human body is determined. The pleats 1 provided at the center of the front body F are larger than the pleats. That is, the difference between the pleat width xw at the waist line w and the pleat width xh at the hip line h is larger than the pleat 1a at the center of the front body F, the center 1c of the back body B and the right and left sides 1b of the front and rear bodies F, B, The pleats in 1d are to be larger. In this manner, by individually setting the drop difference for each pleat, a skirt having a shape that is easily adapted to the female figure can be formed. Here, in the present invention, the pleat width xw of the waistline w is set equal to each pleat 1 as described above. Since the pleat width xw of the waistline w is most conspicuous, by setting the waistline w equal as in the present invention, a beautiful waistline and pleat uniformity can be created. In this case, for the pleat 1a at the center of the front body F, the pleat width xh of the hip line h and the pleat width xs of the hem line are changed to the other parts (the left and right sides of the front body F and the entire rear body B). The width may be smaller than the same width xh, xs) of the pleats 1b, 1c, 1d. As described above, in the present embodiment, of the 16 pleats, the center four pleats 1a of the front body F are set so that the drop difference is smaller than the other pleats 1b, 1c, and 1d. This makes it possible to form a skirt most corresponding to a human body shape, in particular, a body shape in which a change in unevenness between the waistline and the hipline is small in the front part. [0013] Next, as a second important point, the left and right hip bones and hips both protrude greatly, but the vertical positions of the protrusions are different. That is, the overhang of the left and right hip bones is higher than the top of the hip (the most protruding position). In this way, it can be said that the dimensional change from the waist is the steepest on the left and right sides of the human body due to the high position of the hip bone. Therefore, in the present invention, in order to obtain the most natural and stable pleats, of the left and right sides of the front body F and the entire back body B, the left and right sides of the front and rear bodies F and B are tapered pleats 1b and 1d. With the synergistic action with the large drop difference, it is possible to cope with a steep dimensional change caused by the positions of the right and left hip bones. On the other hand, since the center of the back body B corresponding to the hip is not a steep change as compared to the left and right, the straight pleat 1c is used as the above-described drop difference. In the above description, the pleats 1b and 1d on the left and right sides of the front and rear bodies F and B and the pleats 1c at the center of the rear body B are assumed to have substantially the same drop difference. May be changed on condition that a larger drop difference than the center pleat 1a is provided. For example, the drop difference of the pleat 1c at the center of the back body B is set to be larger than the drop difference of the pleats 1b and 1d at the left and right sides of the front and rear bodies F and B, or conversely, the pleat 1c at the center of the back body B May be made smaller. Regarding the adjustment of these drop differences, it is desirable to provide a larger drop difference in the former for high school students entering the maturity stage and for junior high school students in the physical development stage. It can be selected and implemented as appropriate. The above-described straight pleats 1a and 1c and tapered pleats 1b and 1d can be formed of a pattern paper provided with the same fold lines as the front body F and the back body B before sewing. That is, a fold line having the same form as each pleat 1 is formed on a heat-resistant material (for example, a heat-resistant plastic sheet), and two fold lines are prepared. By so-called permanent press processing by applying heat and pressing in this state, straight pleats 1a and 1c and tapered pleats 1b and 1d are formed. As described above, Table 1 shows the relationship between the size of each part of each body (including the pattern) according to the present embodiment with numerals 1 to 7. The numbers 1 to 7 mean that 1 is the minimum length and increases in order, and 7 is the maximum length. [Table 1] The invention of the present application is not limited to the embodiment and the dimensional relationship in the table, but can be modified and implemented within the scope of the claims. For example, in the table, the dimensions of the front and rear center and the left and right pleat groups are the same in each group, but the dimensions of the pleats in the same group are not limited to the same, but different from each other. It may be something. In addition, in this example, the number of the front and rear centers and the number of the left and right lines are four each, that is, a total of sixteen. The number may be different depending on the part, such as three on the left and right. As described above, the invention of the present application focuses on the characteristics of the female figure, examines each of the pleats, and explains how each of these pleats as a whole pleated skirt Intensive research into whether or not it should be integrated ensures that the most natural and stable pleats can be obtained, even as straight pleats that do not reduce mass productivity, and that the pleats are not as uniform as possible. A pleated skirt that can be prevented can be provided.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS FIG. 1 is a perspective view of a pleated skirt according to an embodiment of the present invention. FIG. 2 is an explanatory diagram three-dimensionally showing the sewn cloth near the waistline of the pleated skirt. FIG. 3 is an explanatory diagram three-dimensionally showing a cloth before sewing around a waistline of the pleated skirt. FIG. 4 is a developed view of a left half of a front body of the pleated skirt. FIG. 5 is a developed view of a left half of a back body of the pleated skirt. [Description of Signs] F Fabric for front body (front body) B Fabric for back body (back body) 1 Pleat 1a Pleat at center of front body (straight pleats) 1b Pleat on both right and left sides of front body (tapered pleats) 1c Pleat in the center of the body (straight pleats) 1d Pleats on both the left and right sides of the back body (tapered pleats) 2 Front fold 3 Back fold 31 First back fold 32 Second back fold 4 Front fold line 5 Back fold line 6 Border line 7 Sewing allowance 8 Waist belt members

Claims (1)

[Claim 1] A pleated skirt provided with pleats (1) by forming linear front fold lines (4) on body cloth (F, B). Pleat (1a,
1c) is a straight pleat, pleats (1b, 1d) formed on the left and right of the front and rear body fabric are tapered pleats, a pleat width (xw) at a waist line (w) and a pleat width (xh) at a hip line. ), The pleats (1c) at the center of the back body fabric and the pleats (1b, 1d) at the left and right sides of the front and rear body fabrics are larger than the pleats (1a) at the center of the front body fabric. A pleated skirt, wherein the pleated width (xw) at the waistline (w) is substantially equal over the entire circumference of the skirt.